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Sciences 
Corporation 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STRtET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  HS80 

(716)  873-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notus  techniques  et  bibliographiquos 


The 
to  tt 


The  institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exomplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


The 
posi 
oft) 
filml 


D 


D 


D 


n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommag^e 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur6e  et/ou  pellicul6e 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  giographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      j    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relid  avec  d'autres  documents 


I      I    Coloured  pages/ 


D 
D 
□ 

D 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag6es 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pelliculies 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6coior6es,  tachetdes  ou  piqu6es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtach^es 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


□    Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  inigale 


n6gale  de  I'impression 

supplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  materiel  supptdmentaire 


I      I    Includes  supplementary  material/ 


Orig 
begi 
thai 
sion 
othfl 
first 
sion 
Drill 


The 
thai 
TINI 
whit 

Map 
diffi 
entii 
beg! 
righ 
reqt 
met 


D 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int6rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutdes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  4t6  filmies. 


n 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  tie  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pagas  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  filmies  d  nouveau  de  fa^on  i\ 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


D 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplimentaires; 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

I/' 

I 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


ails 

du 

difier 

jne 

lage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

University  of  British  Columbia  Library 


The  images  appearing  liere  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  Iteeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'exemplaire  filmA  fut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 
gAnirositi  de: 

University  of  Iritish  Columbia  Library 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6x6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettete  de  l'exemplaire  filmi,  et  3n 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimie  sont  filmis  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  en  commenqant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaftra  sur  la 
derniAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  seion  le 
cas:  le  symbole  -—^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  ir  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  a£  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diegrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmAs  6  des  taux  de  reduction  diffirents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichi,  il  est  filmd  6  partir 
de  Tangle  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  6  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n6cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


rata 
> 


elure, 


J 


I2X 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

6 

6 

T 


I 


T 


XnsriTED  STATES   COAST  SUHVEY. 

IJENJAMIN   i'ElKCK,  SuperinteiMlont. 


rn 


PACiriC   COAST 


COAST  PILOT  OF  ALASKA, 


(FIRST    PA.RT,) 


SOliTHERN  BOUNDARY  TO  COOK'S  INLET. 


I 


BY 


aEORCrE    DAVmSON, 

AHRIHTANT     (MJAHT     »  U  11  V  K  Y  . 


1869. 


WASHINGTON: 

0  0  V  K  U  N  M  E  N  T     PRINTING     O  F  V  I  C  R 
1869. 


INTRODUCTION  TO  TUE  ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


Tho  information  herein  conveyed  of  the  coast,  harbors,  cliu  ato,  and  produc- 
tions of  Ahiska,  formed  the  principal  part  of  the  oflicial  report  of  George  D.ivid- 
son,  wlio  was  in  charge  of  the  party  of  the  United  States  Coast  Survey  for  the  geo- 
graphical reconnoissance  of  the  coast  of  Alaska,  in  August,  September,  Octobei-, 
and  November  1807.*  While  engaged  in  this  special  work  it  was  peculiarly 
desirable  to  collect  information  of  those  parts  of  tho  coast  which  must  necessarily 
remain  without  direct  examination  for  some  years,  to  ascertain  the  resources,  tho 
climate,  and  products  of  the  country,  then  almost  unknown  to  tho  United  States. 
In  the  absence  of  other  official  and  authentic  information,  it  has  been  deemed 
proper  to  retain  the  articles  upon  the  clinmte,  vegetable  productions,  hsherics, 
timber,  fur-bearing  animals,  and  population  of  the  coast.  These  are  important  to 
our  fishermen,  whalemen,  fur-traders,  miners,  and  ship-builders.  Extended  mete- 
orological tables  have  been  added  as  appendices ;  the  vocabularies  of  Unaiaska, 
Kadiak,  Kenai,  and  Sitka,  by  Lisiansky,  and  of  the  Chim-shyins,  by  Davidson, 
have  also  been  added. 

As  fresh  material  is  collected  it  will  be  incorporated,  corrections  made,  and 
many  articles  not  rigidly  pertaining  to  a  Coast  Pilot,  will  be  pruned  or  excluded. 

The  narratives  of  the  old  navigators,  explorers,  and  fur-traders,  have  been  in 
great  part  examined  and  collated  f  jr  special  descriptions  of  bays,  harbors,  straits, 
headlands,  islands,  coast  lino,  currents,  fishing  banks,  &c. 

Among  the  authorities  examined  have  been  Miiller,  Coxe,  Cooke,  IMcares, 
Portlock,  Dixon,  La  Pdrouse,  Vancouver,  Lisiansky,  Kruzenstern,  Kotzebue, 
Wraugell,  Beechey.,  Seemann,  George  Simpson,  Thomas  Simpson,  Venjauiinoft", 
Tebenkoff,  Holmberg,  Grewingk,  Annals  of  the  Observatory  at  Sitka,  together 
with  many  manuscript  maps  of  the  Russian-American  Comi)any,  and  verbal  com- 
munications from  tho  navigators  of  thy  company. 

Some  of  the  tracks  of  the  old  navigators  have  been  plotted  on  'the  best  inai)s 
extant,  and  great  discrepancies,  as  in  La  Pi'u'ouse,  reconciled.  Many  positions 
have  been  determined  from  their  recorded  bearings,  &c. 

In  the  oflicial  report  a  general  description  of  the  coast,  and  of  the  great 
Japan  warm  current  throwing  its  waters  thereon,  preceded  the  reniiuUs  njmn  the 
climare,  »%c.;  but  it  has  been  judged  best  to  keep  everything  specially  rchiting  to 
the  description  of  the  coast  in  regular  sequence.    To  understand  the  i)eculiaiities 


*  The  party  won?  iiPconiiiio<lHt(>(l  on  liDiird  tln>  United  Stutos  rovpimo  Hteaincr  IJiiroln,  Captiiiii 
J.  W.  WhiU^,  under  the  N|M>ciul  direction  of  (Captain  W,  A.  Howard,  I'liited  States  revenue  ncrvice, 
and  tlieir  duti<»  weni  Nuliordiuuto  to  tbe  speeiul  revenue  and  other  diitieH  of  that  venHel. 


INTKODITCTION. 


of  tlio  coast,  cliiniitc,  ami  proaiictions  in  that  IukIi  latitude,  it  is,  liowcvor,  essen- 
tial to  know  sonictliini,'  of  the  causes  which  produce  them. 

A  general  description  of  the  interior  route  from  San  Francisco  to  Alaska  by 
the  Strait  of  Fuca,  (Inlf  of  Georjjia,  and  consecutive  channels,  pr'jcedes  the 
descii|ttion  of  the  coast  of  Alaska.  As  theses  channels  are  mostly  in  British 
Columltia,  detailed  descriptions  have  not  been  made,  they  being  without  the 
Hcoiie  of  tin'  present  work. 

tSoitiKlbuis  arc  given  for  the  mean  of  the  lower  low-waters. 

lUnrinijH  are  magnetic. 

DlstnnccH  are  expressed  in  geographical  (nautical)  miles. 


ALASKA    COAST    PILOT 


ni'fon^  (Miti'iing  upon  a  ilotuiled  dosttription  of  the  coast  and  liarbois  of 
Alaska,  it  aitpcais  desirable  to  state  and  conipaie  tlie  distance  of  Sitlva  IVoni  Sau 
Francisco  by  the  direct  (umrse  with  that  by  the  interior  navijiation  llirou;;]i  Fnca 
Strait  and  the  channels  lying  betw  'en  Vancouver  Island  and  the  main,  and  thence 
through  the  archipelagos  to  the  northward ;  and  to  give  a  general  description  of 
the  channels  and  harbors  through  these  archipelagos. 

From  a  position  ten  miles  west  of  the  South  Fanillou  a  direct  course  can  be 
laid  to  Point  Woodhouse,  the  south  point  of  the  entrance  to  Sitka  Sound.  This 
course  is  about  luuth  23J°  west,  and  the  distance  one  thousand  two  hundred  and 
tifty-livc  miles.  The  shortest  distance  from  the  harbor  of  San  Francisco  to  that  of 
Sitka  is  one  thousand  two  hundred  and  ninety-six  miles.  On  the  above  course;  a 
vessel  Avill  pass  five  miles  outside  Point  Arena;  liftcen  miles  outside  ('ape  Mendo- 
cino ;  one  hundred  and  eighty-livo  miles  off  Cape  Flattery;  seventy-five  miles  off 
Scott  I,  ..t  the  northwest  point  of  Vancouver  Island  ;  thirty-eight  miles  from  Capo 
St.  James,  the  south  point  of  the  Queen  Charlotte  Archipelago;  seventeen  miles 
from  the  northwesternmost  point  of  the  same,  while  the  western  shores  of  the 
group  lie  nearly  parallel  with  the  course;  twenty-three  miles  from  Cape  l$ar- 
tolomo,  the  southwest  iioint  of  entrance  to  Bucarelli  Sound;  eighteen  miles  from 
Cape  Ommaney,  the  southwest  point  of  the  entrance  to  Chatham  Strait. 

In  making  this  direct  eoiuse  in  summer,  a  vessel  will  iiato  an  adverse  current 
the  whole  distam^e;  how  great  it  is  off  shore  is  not  well  established,  ]»ossibly 
twenty  miles  per  daj-.  In  winter  this  current,  runnirg  against  the  prevailing 
southeast  winds,  tends  to  create  a  larger  and  shorter  sea  than  is  occasioned  by 
the  same  strength  of  northwest  wind  in  sununer. 

In  making  the  passage  by  the  interior  channels  from  the  same  starting  point, 
the  vessel  will  make  a  course  for  Cape  Mendocino,  one  hundred  and  seventy-seven 
miles ;  thence  to  Cape  Flattery,  Ave  hundred  and  forty-fimr  miles.  Here  the  infe- 
rior channels  connnence,  and  the  mid-channel  course  through  the  Strait  of  Fuca  to 
the  entrance  of  the  Canal  de  naro  gives  seventy-three  miles;  thence  through  the 
Canal  de  Haro,  Shannon  Channel,  and  Active  Pass,  to  the  (iulf  of  (lecngia,  thirty- 
five  miles;  along  the  western  sluncs  of  the  Gulf,  within  an  average  distaiu-e  of  five 
miles  from  land,  to  the  entrance  of  Discovery  Passage  abreast  of  Cape  Jfudge,  in 
latitude  490  50',  one  hundred  and  seven  miles;  thnmgli  this  passage  and  -lohn- 
stoue  and  P>roughton  Straits  to  F'oit  Kui)ert,  in  iJeaver  Harbor,  near  the  n(»rtli- 
ern  extremity  of  Vancouver  Island,  tuie  hundred  and  seven  miles;  tla-nci-  along 
the  Vancouver  shore  and  through  the  Siiadwell  Passage  t(»  (Jueen  Charlotte 
Sound,  thirty  miles;  across  the  entrance  to  this  sound  to  Cape  Mosman,  (»r  Cal- 


() 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


vert,  in  latitiulo  .IP  LM'.O  at  tlic  southwt'.st  point  of  tlio  ciitrauco  to  FitzlniKh 
H..niMl,  tliiity-.uic  n.il.'s;  tlirouKli  tlii.t  strait  to  the  ea.stern  entrant  of  Lnn  a  Pas- 
isa^'..,  forty  n.il.-s;  through  th«  passage  ami  Hoaforth  Cliannol  to  :SIiH.ank  Sound, 
twHity-eiRht  niik-s;  across  the  sound  and  through  Finlay.son  Sound  to  Point 
King(-(.nif,  s.-vcnty-ninc  miU's;  thi-uce  westward  to  Gronvillc  Strait,  sixteen 
miles;  through  tlie  .strait  forty-seven  inih-s;  through  Cliathani  Stnuid  to  Oixou 
S..nnd,  forty-two  miles;  a«'ross  Dixon  Sound,  (the  dividing  waters  between  15riti,sli 
Columbia  and  Alaska,)  through  Clareuce  Strait  to  the  north  point  of  Coronation 
Island,  two  hundred  miles;  thence  outside  around  Cape  Ommaney  ami  Haranoft' 
Island  to  the  jtosition  off  Point  Woodhouse,  eighty  miles ;  or  a  total  distance  of 
one  thousand  six  hundred  and  forty -s»ven  miles.  This  gives  three  humlrcd  and 
ninety-two  miles  further  than  the  direct  course. 

Shouhl  a  vessel  not  wish  to  go  outside  at  all,  she  can  leave  the  Clarence 
Sound  at  its  m)rthea.st  bend  and  pass  thnmgh  Stikine  Strait,  Wrangell  Pas.sage, 
Frederick  Souiul,  Chatham  and  Peril  Straits,  to  Sitka.  In  this  case  the  naviga- 
tion is  more  hazardous  and  the  distance  frouj  Dixon  Sound  three  hundred  and 
forty-flve  miles;  this  would  nmke  about  one  thousand  seven  hundred  and  twelve 
miles  from  the  South  Farallon  to  Sitka. 

A  large  sailing  ve,s,sel  mu.st  make  the  outside  pas.sage,  and  if  bound  to  Sitka 
during  the  .sea.son  of  northwest  winds,  will  find  that  by  making  a  long  tack  otT 
shore  slu>  crosses  the  main  volume  of  the  current  running  along  the  coast  from 
the  northward,  and  that  the  wind  hauls  so  as  to  admit  of  her  heading  well  to  the 
north  —at  least  the  latter  was  «mr  experience  in  July  1854,  when  about  latitude 
4.'}''  and  longitude  ^31°.  The  influence  of  the  above  current  is  generally  supposed 
to  be  felt  about  three  hundred  miles  oft'  shore. 

A  large  steamer  may  make  the  direct  course  in  part,  and  be  much  the  gainer, 
e.speeially  if  she  recpiires  coaling  before  her  return,  as  coal  can  readily  be  obtained 
at  the  Xasaimo  n»im»s*  in  tl  (^  Gulf  of  Georgia.  In  such  a  case,  the  outside  pas- 
sage n<«thward  of  (Jueen  Charlotte  Sound  should  be  taken.  A  small  steamer, 
actually  capable  of  nuiking  this  passage  and  having  coal  at  Sitka,  may  tind  it 
advantageous  to  run  through  the  smooth  waters  of  the  interior  channels  and 
avoid  the  m)rthwest  winds  and  seas  of  summer,  or  the  heavy  .southeast  gales  of 
winter.  The  great  objection  to  the  interiin-  navigation  is  the  necessity  for  antdior- 
Ing  each  niglit,  and  anchorages  are  not  numerous.  In  summer  this  is  not  a  very 
serious  loss  of  time,  on  account  of  the  long  days.    With  the  recent  reconnoissance 


*  Eijility  milcN  diNliint  from  Victorin,  on  the  t'lvsteru  sidu  of  Vimoouvcr  Lslanil,  oxtoiiHivo 
(li'lKisits  (if  coal  occiir.  known  aN  tilt'  \asainio  mint's.  Tht'st"  niiiu's  wt'if  opfnt'tl  in  tlif  year  1S,52 
by  tin'  Hntlson  llav  ('tiin))any,  Imt  havi^  Hini'i;  passt'd  intti  tlii^  liantU  of  otluT  part  it's. 

Tlit>  ttital  .shiiuni'ntM  of  timl  frtim  thom  fitnn  the  yt'ur  185'J  to  tlu'  prt'Sfiit  tinif  proliahly 
rxffftl  two  Inintli'i'il  tlionsaml  tonw,  and,  ai'ctirtlinn  to  Mactif,  amonntt'tl  at  the  cntl  of  tlit'  year 
IHi'il  to  lint' hnntlrctl  anil  twt'nty-tliifi>  tlionHantl  nint- liuntli-t'd  antl  thirtft'n  tons;  tlif  sliipnifntH 
ft)r  thf  yt'ai-  l-'iil  wcrt'  t wcnly-nini-  tliousanil  antl  forly-twti  tons. 

Tlif  foal  is  liifrlily  bitninintius,  wfll  siiitt'il  tor  lioiist'lioltt  nsc  antl  stfaniinn  pm|iiist's.  Tlio 
liftls  art'  linown  to  lii'lon;;  to  thf  fit'tact'ons  pcrinil,  ami  art'  iniu'h  npht'avt'tl  antl  fanltfd,  ifntlt-rinK 
thi'ir  exploration  tlilticnlt  and  t'X])i'nsivt'. 

The  cttal  is  fiiniiHhetl  on  the  wharf  at  Nasainut  at  six  ilollarH  (K"l<i)  I'fr  tt)u. 


8)ll 
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7 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


shoots  of  tlio  iidinivalty,  it  is  praotioablo  to  run  tlioso  o)iannols  and  soniids  in  piod 
woatlior  witliont  a  pilot ;  but  on  acooiiut  of  the  liability  to  fogs,  it  is  dosirablo  aud 
Biifor  to  trust  to  a  pilot.  * 

III  1807  tlio  Lincolu,  with  th«  ooast  survoy  party  on  board,  nindo  tho  interior 
pnssafjos  to  Fort  Simpson,  in  latitude  54°  34' at  the  oastorn  oxtieniity  of  Dixon 
Sound;  thence  through  Dixon  Sound  to  Ca|»e  Kygane  and  along  the  coast  to 
Sitka  Siuind.  This  shortons  iho  passjigo,  but  in  thick,  heavy  weather,  it  is  dilll- 
cult  to  make  the  capes  ab(  .i'  Sitka,  and  dangerous  to  a)>proach  too  close  because 
of  the  absenee  of  the  nsiial  iids  to  navigation.  Moreover,  no  off-shore  soun<lings 
have  been  obtained  of*"  that  section  of  coast  to  enable  the  navigator  to  judge  of 
his  ])osition. 

For  the  interior  passages  the  admiralty  charts  are  completed  to  the  north  end 
(tf  Vancouver,  and  in  po't  finished  and  ]mblishod  in  December  18G7,  as  far  as 
Fort  Simpson.  Admirnlt y  Chart  No.  1917  gives  the  interior  channels  from  Fuca 
Strait  to  Ca])e  Calvert  in  51-  24'  at  the  north  side  of  Queen  Charlotte  Sound, 
with  all  the  ocean  shores,  bays,  and  liarbuvs  of  Vancouver  Island.  Uesichs  this 
there  is  a  series  of  cbarts  of  the  passages  on  a  larger  scale.  Chart  No.  192.'5  exhib- 
its this  interior  navigation  from  Cape  Caution  in  Queen  Charlotte  Sound  in  latitude 
61°  10'  to  latitude  52°  20'.  J'art  of  this  is  there  published  in  detail  for  the  first 
time  since  Vancouver's  explorations,  and  is  very  impctrtant  as  exhibiting  many  of 
the  dangers  of  Queen  Charlotte  Sound,  Smith's  Inlet,  and  the  entrance  to  Fitz- 
liugh  Sound,  several  barbors  of  retreat  in  that  vicinity,  several  jin<-,horages  in 
Fitzliugh  Sound ;  but  especially  as  exhibiting  in  detail  the  Lama  and  (iuuboat 
Passages  leading  westwsird  and  northward  from  Fitzhugh  Sound  to  Sea  forth 
Channel  and  Milbank  Sound.  These  passages  arc  barely  indicated  by  Vancouver 
and  very  erroneously  laid  down  on  Admiralty  Chart  No.  2130,  where  a  passage  is 
placed  in  latitude  52°  01'.  In  seeking  for  the  Lama  Passage  nt  night  the  Liiu^oln 
was  misled  by  this  error  of  the  chart,  especiallj-  as  an  islet  lies  in  a  small  cove 
in  this  latitude,  and  gives  at  night  the  appearance  of  an  openiiuj.  There  is  not 
space  for  a  steamer  to  turn  in  this  place,  hardly  room  to  swing  to  a  short  scope 
of  chain,  and  the  passage  inside  and  arou  >d  the  island  is  dangerous.  This  little 
opening  received  the  appropriate  name  of  "The  Trap." 

Northward  of  Milbank  Sound,  through  Finlayson  Channel,  this  chart  is  oidy  in 
outline.  It  includes  the  southern  part  of  the  Queen  Charlotte  Archipelago  with 
the  Houston  Stuart  r.hTinel  through  the  islands  in  latitude  52°  00'  to  52°  0!)',  and 
a  survey  of  Rose  Harbor  in  tliis  channel,  with  the  position  of  Stincuttle  Channel 
through  the  same  archipelago  indicated  in  latitude  52°  13'  to  52°  18'.  Admiralty 
Chart  No.  1923  A,  with  corrections  to  January,  1808,  gives  the  interior  navigation 
by  one  main  line  of  chaimels  only,  from  latitude  62°  57'  to  the  wate"s  between 
Alaska  and  British  Columbia  in  latitude  54°  40'.  The  main  channels  are  in 
outline  only,  but  several  anchorages  are  indicated ;  Ogden  Channel  has  been  par- 
tially developed,  leading  from  the  north  end  of  Grenville  Channel,  in  latitude  53° 
55',  to  the  ocean,  via  Hecate  Strait,  lying  between  these  islands  aud  Queen  Char- 


8 


ALASIwV  (X)ABT  l»ir.OT. 


lotto  Aicliipoliigo.  It  cxliibitH  on  a  small  scale  IMetlak:'itla  and  Duncan  Bays, 
on  tlic  ciistciii  shore  of  Cliathani  Sound;  and  Port  Simpson  Bay  and  approaclies. 
It  also  {;iv('S  tlic  survey  of  Oumshewas  Bay  and  harbor,  on  the  east  side  of  Mores- 
by Island  ;  of  the  Qneen  C5harlott«  Archipelago,  in  latitude  53°,  and  the  eastern 
part  of  Skidegiite  Inlet,  between  Moresby  Island  and  Graham  Island,  in  latitude 
fia°  2')'. 

Admiralty  Chart  No.  1901,  published  in  February  1868,  contains  ])lans  of  ten 
haibors  and  anchorages  of  the  interior  navigation,  the  Ogden  channel  and  adja- 
cent harbors,  all  lyiug  between  Cape  Caution  anil  Por<-  Gimpson*.  It  exhibits 
Schooner  Retreat  at  the  south  entrance  to  Fitzhugh  Sound,  Safety  Cove,  Gold- 
stream  Ilarbor,  and  Namu  Harbor  in  Fitzhugh  Sound,  McLaughlin  Bay  in  Lama 
Passage,  Kynumpt  Ilarbor  in  Soaforth  Channel  between  Lama  Passage  and  Mil- 
bank  Sound,  Carter  Bay  at  the  north  end  of  Finlay&ou  Channel,  Holmes  Bay  at 
the  south  end  of  Grenville  Channel,  (this  is  the  Home  Bay  of  previous  English 
charts,  and  by  this  name  only  is  it  known  by  traders  and  the  Hudson  Bay  pilots,) 
Stuart  Anchorage  in  the  north  part  of  Grenville  Channel,  Ogden  Channel,  and 
Al^dia  Bay  in  the  same  channel. 

Chart  No.  571,  published  in  April  18GG,  contains  four  haibors  in  the  vicinity 
oi'  Queen^Chai'lotte  Sound,  on  the  north  shore,  abreast  of  Fort  Rupert  in  Beaver 
Harbor ;  Blunden  and  Callen  harbors  would  only  be  resoi'ted  to  by  our  traders 
for  refuge,  while  Cypress  and  Tracy  harbors  are  situated  among  the  imnow  intri- 
cate arms  stretching  into  the  mainland,  about  latitude  60°  50',  and  longitude  120° 
50',  twelvejniles  from  the  north  shores  of  Vancouver  Island. 

It  is  not  necessarj'  to  follow  in  detail  these  connected  interior  channels  of 
Bricish  Columbia,  forming  p...i  of  the  great  canals  extending  from  the  head  of 
Paget  Sound,  in  latitude  47°  03',  to  the  mouth  of  the  Chilkaht,  in  latitude  5()o  15'. 
All  aftbrd  splendid  navigation  for  steamers  and  small  sailing  craft.  Those  of 
British  Cohunbia  are  comparatively  narrow,  ranging  from  half  a  mile  in  excep- 
tional places  to  nearly  ten  miles  in  Chatham  Sound  and  to  sixteen  miles  in  the 
Gulf  of  CJeorgia.  But  it  must  be  understood  that  to  the  navigator  accust'Mied  to 
plenty  of  sea-room  these  channels  look  narrow,  on  account  of  the  great  height  of 
their  rocky  and  almost  perpeniMcnlar  shores. 

The  inlets  which  occur  at  the  hciul  of  the  Gulf  of  Georgia,  northeast  of  Van- 
couver Island,  are  worthy  of  special  remark.  They  are  from  forty  to  sixty  miles 
in  length,  from  one  to  two  miles  only  in  breadth,  and  are  walled  with  .vbrupt 
mountains  from  four  to  eight  thousand  feet  in  height,  Superb  Mountain  attaining 
eight  thousand  feet  at  the  head  of  Bute  Inlet,  and  Mount  Alfr-l  eight  thousand 
four  hundred  ami  Hfty  at  the  head  of  Jervis  Inlet. 

According  to  the  admiralty  charts  there  are  places  in  these  fiords,  within  one- 
half  mile  or  less  of  shore,  where  no  bottom  was  found  at  three  hundred  fathoms. 

In  Disiwefji  /'««w/7p,  leading  from  the  northwest  ])artofthe  (rulf  of  Georgia, 
the  channel  is  contracted  very  much;  about  eleven  miles  inside  of  Cape  IViUdge 
the  shores  are  ])recipitous,  rocky,  ami  nearly  a  thousand  feet  high,  and  this  occur- 


} 
I 


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1 


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3      -3 
=      I 


t-     I 


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V 


^ 


ALASKA  COAST  I'lLOT. 


ring  near  the  locality  wliero  tlie  northern  and  southern  tidal  currents  meet  and 
form  hif,'li  tides,  there  is  occasioned  at  certain  stages  of  the  tide  a  heavy  overfall 
and  a  current  running  from  four  to  eight  knots  per  hour.  It  is  exceedingly 
dangerous  to  try  and  run  through  this  race  in  a  fog.  Fortunately  there  are 
anchorages  at  either  approach  of  this  gorge,  which  is  called  the  ISvymour  Xan-ows, 
where  a  vessel  may  anchor  until  a  favorable  time.  In  the  Race  I'mmye  on  the 
south  side  of  llelmcken  Island  we  metisured  the  flood  current  from  tiie  nortliwest, 
running  seven  miles  per  hour  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  and  no  available  position  on 
either  shore  for  an  anchorage.  Here  the  scenery  is  grand,  for  the  mountains  close 
on  the  southern  or  Vancouver  shore  rise  to  an  elevation  of  over  four  thousand  six 
hundred  feet;  on  the  north  shore,  on  ITardvvicke  Island  the  mountains  rise  two 
thousand  six  hundred  feet  above  the  water.  Tlience  westward  the  Johnstone 
Straits  increase  to  two  miles  in  width  and  the  tidal  currents  run  from  one  to  three 
knots  witli  a  mid-channel  depth  of  one  hundred  and  seventy-six  fathoms,  no 
bottom,  while  the  high  mountain  range  on  the  Vancouver  shore  rises  abruptly  to 
five  thousand  feet.  In  Broughton  Strait  tlie  channel  is  wider  and  has  less  depth, 
but  is  filled  with  islands  which  decrease  the  available  width,  so  that  the  currents 
reach  a  velocity  of  five  knots  per  hour.  In  this  vicinity,  however,  are  numerous 
places  for  anchorage.  Thence  westward,  through  the  eastern  part  of  (^ueen  Char- 
lotte Sound,*  the  current  is  from  one  to  three  knots  per  hour. 

Towards  the  north  end  of  Vancouver  Island  the  mountains  directly  on  the 
coast  decrease  in  elevation,  but  the  mountains  on  the  maiidand  to  the  north  and 
northeastward  attain  heights  over  six  thousand  feet  above  the  sea  and  a'"e  snow- 
clad  in  July  and  August.  In  running  northward  across  the  entrance  of  Queen 
Charlotte  Sound  to  Fitzhugh  Sound  from  the  Shatlwell  or  Bute  Pass,  the  outside 
dangers  to  the  westward,  stretching  from  a  position  four  miles  ofi"  Cape  Mosman  t 
to  a  position  twenty  miles  south-southwest  from  the  cape,  are  readily  detected  and 
form  a  dangerous  ground  that  must  bo  avoided.  The  islets  and  rocks  making  oft" 
the  entrance  to  Smith's  Inlet  J  are  also  x'eadily  recognized  and  avoided  in  good 
vtcjither ;  but  in  foggy  or  thick  weather  it  is  perhaps  best  to  run  from  tlie  Shad- 
well  or  Bute  Pass  for  Cape  Caution,  a  rocliy  point  of  small  elevation  covered  witli 
dwarfed  siu-uce,  &c.,  and  then  for  a  jiosition  one  or  two  miles  west  of  Egg  Islam!, 
which  is  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high  and  easily  recognized,  but  has  two  islets 
and  a  sunken  rock  half  a  mile  south  and  south-southwest  from  it.  Leaving  Egg 
Island,  a  course  can  be  laid  for  Cape  Mosman.  This  cape,  forming  tlie  southern- 
most point  of  Calvert  Island,  presents  a  broad  face  east  and  west  of  low  rocky 
sliore  line,  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  spruce,  hemlock,  &c.,  but  backed  by 
mountains  two  thousand  to  two  thousand  nine  hundred  feet  high  to  the  north- 


"Xiiiueil  by  C'iii)tiiiii  S.  WL>il)r(ji,oroiij;h,  (if  the  KxiX'iiiiitMit,  in  Aujjiist  1780. 

tNiiiiipil  liy  till'  United  StatcM  Const  Survey  in  .July  lf!(i7.    See   view  called  Capo  Calvert,  on 
Admiralty  Chart  No.  lt)a:(,  publiNhed  in  Ueeeiuher  1««7. 
{ Named  by  Captain  James  llanna  in  178(i, 


10 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


ward  on  ('alvcrt  Island.*  A  view  of  tliia  cape  is  given;  the  latitude  of  the  i.slet 
oirthiM'xticiiH' jHiint  is  .')13  L'l'.fl, 

Queen  Charlotte  Sound  is  tlio  only  break  in  this  line  of  interior  navisation, 
and  it  is  not  only  j;iianled  towards  the  ocean  by  nniny  patches  of  low  and  sunken 
rocks,  but  it  is  exposed  to  the  fidl  sweep  of  the  ocean  swell,  and  so  situated  as  to 
appear  i)eculiarly  liable  to  foj;.  ritzliu;;h  Soundt  is  forty  miles  hmff,  with  an 
aM'ia^-e  width  of  three  miles,  and  great  depth  of  water.  Its  general  direction  is 
north,  and  the  shores  are  bold,  and  on  the  west  side  free  from  rocks.  Several 
])asses  lead  eastward  and  westward  from  it,  but  most  of  them  are  unexplored. 

There  is  an  anchorage  on  the  eastern  shme  of  ritzhugh  Sound,  in  Schooner 
RctrciH,  the  south  entrance  of  which  is  in  latitude  51°  27'.(!,  and  in  huigitude 
IL'To  ■i'>'.H.  From  this  entrance  the  extremity  of  Cape  Mosnuui  bears  south  ih>° 
west.  From  the  middle  of  the  south  entrance  of  the  harbor  the  highest  hill  on  the 
island,  behind  «u'  east  of  the  harbor,  bears  northeast,  so  that  it  is  safe  to  run  for 
the  hill  on  that  course  until  Karslake  Point,  the  south  jioint  of  the  harbor,  bears 
about  south-southeast,  and  then  run  mid-channel  east  and  northeast  through  the 
narrow  throat,  only  two  hundred  yards  wide,  but  having  eight  fathoms  in  tiie 
middle.  Inside  this  Fn'f/atc  Jiiiij  ex])ands,  and  anclun^age  is  had  in  twenty 
fiitlioms.  it  is  liigii  water,  full  and  change,  at  0/(.  oO/h.  Springs  rise  fourteen 
feet ;   neajis  eleven  I'eet. 

SitJ'riii  Core  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  sound,  seven  miles  north  of  Cape  Mas- 
nian(?)-  The  entraiu'c  is  in  latitude  '>l°  'M'X>,  and  longitude  127°  flo'.O.  It  is  open 
to  the  <'ast,  a  mile  deep,  six  hundred  or  seven  hundred  yards  in  width,  Avith  good 
holding-ground  in  soft  mud,  from  twenty-two  to  fifteen  fathoms;  very  high  land 
all  around  it;  high  water,  full  and  change,  at  l/i.  0»J.;  springs,  fourteen  feet; 
neaps,  eleven  feet.  It  is  a  good  position  to  wait  for  fair  weather  for  crossing  to 
Queen  Charlotte  Island,  when  bouml  to  the  southward. 

It  was  discovered  by  N'ancouver  in  17!)2,  and  named  by  him  under  the  first 
impression  that  this  was  the  I'ort  Safety  of  Captain  IJuncan. 

Kirul-nhua. — This  bay  opens  on  the  western  shore  of  the  sound,  and  is  about 
half  a  mile  wide  at  the  entrance,  but  has  not  been  surveyed.  There  is  a  small 
rock  otVits  n(nth  ]toint.  It  ap/pears  to  stretcth  nearly  westward,  but  how  far  is  not 
known.  This  is  belie\ed  to  be  the  Port  Safety  of  Captain  Duncan,  who  discovered 
and  named  it  in  I'Sii,  when  he  placed  it  in  latitude  51°  4P,  and  recommended  it 
as  a  vcrv  proper  i»]aet>  for  cleaning  and  refitting  vessels.  At  the  entrance  he  had 
one  huiulred  fathoms,  whereas  in  Vancouver's  Safety  Cove  there  is  only  thirty. 
On  the  Admiralty  Chart  1(L';!,  a  depth  of  one  hundred  and  eighty-three  fathoms, 
nuiddy  bottom,  is  given  ch»se  off  the  entrance.  Duncan  gave  a  sket(;h  of  it.  We 
have  never  seen  tlie  sketch  or  the  bay.  The  latitude  of  its  entrance  is  51°  39', 
and  the  sound  is  hens  three  miles  wide. 

(iohlfttmiin  Harbor  is  on  the  west  sule  of  Fitzhngh  Strait,  at  the  northern  end 


*X;iini'<l  Culvert  Isliniil  liv  Ciiptiiin  .liiiiics  Diiiiciui  in  178(!. 
t  Naiiird  liy  Cuiitiiiii  .liiiiicM  linniiM  in  ITHii. 


ALASKA  fOAST  PIIA)T. 


11 


of  Calvert  Island  in  latitude  Hio  4.$'.7,  longitude  128°  00'.  It  is  very  narrow  and 
irre{;ular.  In  the.  narrowest  part  the  ehannel  is  not  over  lifty  yards  wide  and  v»'ry 
crooked.  At  the  entrance  sonndings  are  given  in  sixteen  I'athonis  a'<out  two 
hundred  and  (li'ty  yards  from  either  point.  There  is  kelp  otV  the  north  point 
(which  is  on  a  small  island)  witii  twenty-seven  fathoms  in  it.  High  water,  full 
and  change,  I/*.  0«i.;  springs,  fifteen  feet;  neai>s,  twelve  feet. 

Around  the  north  end  of  this  .small  island  is  a  channel  over  a  mile  wide, 
called  by  the  natives  Ilakai,  leading  to  the  lUtt^iite  Strait  and  the  ocean,  and 
through  which  Duncan  passed  to  the  sea  in  1780. 

Xamn  Harbor  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  s<miid  with  Iviwash  Island,  two  hun- 
dred feet  high,  standing  nearly  a  mile  west  and  in  the  middle  of  the  oi)ening. 

The  south  point  of  this  island  is  in  latitude  oP  r»l'.r»,  longitude^  ll'To  .>t'.;(. 
There  is  a  passage  on  either  side.  The  best  anchorage  is  about  half  a  mile  east  of 
it  in  twenty  fathoms;  h'ss  water  may  be  had  by  going  a  little  further  in,  but  with 
the  shores  two  hundred  aiul  lifty  yards  distant  on  either  hand.  Tlu-re  is  a  siwdicn 
rock  two  hundred  yards  from  the  easternmost  shore,  with  a  small  islet  about  one 
cable  length  to  the  nortli-half-«est;  deep  water  around  the  rock.  Two  miles  south- 
east of  this  harbor  is  a  rang(^  of  mountains  attaining  an  elevation  of  three  thou- 
sand three  hundred  and  eighty  feet. 

The  "trap"  in  latitude  o'l°  01'  has  been  spoken  of  in  giving  a  general  descrip- 
tion of  these  channels. 

The  Lama  Pannaf/e  opens  from  Fitzhugh  S»und  towards  the  westward  in  lati- 
tude 52°  04',  while  the  conthiuation  of  the  sound  runs  north-northeast,  as  Fisher 
Channel,  through  which  Vancouver  took  his  ships  to  latitude  51"^  20';  thence  to 
the  westward  and  southwest  into  Seaforth  Channel. 

The  Lama  Passage  is  quite  narrow,  being  not  quite  half  a  mile  wide  in  two  or 
three  places,  but  with  deej)  water.  It  runs  west  for  six  or  seven  miles,  then  north 
for  seven  or  eight,  when  it  meets  Seaforth  Channel  from  the  west,  and  (Junboat 
Passage  from  the  east;  at  the  first  turn  a  .strait,  unnamed,  leads  southwest  seven 
or  eight  miles  to  Hecate  Strait.  The  mountains  on  each  side  of  the  ])assage  rise 
from  one  thousaiul  to  one  thousand  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  Avater. 

About  midway  in  the  northern  stretch  of  the  passage,  on  the  western  shore,  is 
a  small  anchorage  called  McLauijhim  Bay,  with  anchorage  in  ten  fathoms  about 
three  hundred  yards  from  diore,  but  over  very  uneven  bottom.  A  bare  hill  two 
hundred  feet  high  lies  next  the  northern  part  of  the  bay.  The  passage  abreast  of 
this  has  less  than  thirty  fathoms  across  it,  a.id  is  only  half  a  mile  in  Avidth.  The 
latitude  of  the  'u.rth  part  of  the  anchorage  is  52°  08'.(5,  and  longitude  128°  10'..'{, 
and  bottom  sand  and  mud.  In  tlie  northern  part  of  the  i  ssage  we  had  anchor- 
ago  in  sixteen  fathou!;-:,  hard  bottom,  on  the  south  side  of  a  low,  treeless  islet, 
o(!cupii!d  by  tli'e  Bellabella  Indians.  Close  to  the  westward  was  a  larg(>  woodc<l 
island  occupied  by  these  Indians  before  they  Avere  reduced  l)y  the  smallpox.  The 
longitude  of  the  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  on  the  islet  is  128^  07' 
50",  or  8/(.  32h*.  31.3«. 


i 


12 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


From  tlif  iioitli  i)art  of  Lama  Passaj-f  a  very  narrow  crooked  strait,  iiamoil 
(iiinlioat  PaHsajjo,  runs  oij?lit  miles  oastward  to  tiio  Fislier  ('liannt*!. 

From  Lama  Passafif  tlio  Srnfortli  Chnnnel  leads  in  a  f,'eneral  westward  direc- 
tion altont  fourteen  miles  to  Milbank  Sonnd.*  It  lias  an  averaj-e  width  of  nearly 
two  miles,  with  two  islets  nearly  in  mid-ehannel,  two  miles  from  tin;  eastern  end; 
one  of  these  is  a  fjrassy  islet  alxnit  lifty  feet  hif,di,  with  poles  and  Indian  Inmses  or 
jfraves.  IMany  openings  api)ear  in  the  southern  low  shores,  and  numerous  hays 
and  arms  o])eii  toAvanls  the  ni)rth.  About  s(mthwest  of  the  western  ish^t  in 
mid-channel  is  the  openinjj;  of  Kynumpt  Harbor,  with  a  white  rock  twelve  feet 
above  water  at  its  western  point  of  entrance,  which  is  about  one-third  of  a  milo 
wide,  with  sixteen  IVithoms  in  mid-channel  and  three  and  four  fathoms  close  to 
either  shore.  The  harbor  stretches  south  about  half  a  mile,  and  has  jjood  anchor- 
a;ie  in  mid-channel  half  the  distance  inside,  with  muddy  bottcmi  and  eif-iit  fathoms 
of  water,  but  the  shores  only  four  hundred  yards  apart.  High  water,  full  and 
change,  at  O/i.  ;$();n.;  springs,  fourteen  feet;  neaps,  eleven  feet. 

In  the  Scaforth  Channcd  there  is  plenty  of  water  on  ciiher  side  of  the  islet  near 
Kynumjit  Harbor,  and  the  mid-channel  soundings  show  tlMoughout  no  bottom  at 
thirty-nine  fathoms.  Al)out  the  middle  of  it,  on  the  south  shore,  the  Hecate 
Channel  leads  south-southwest  for  twelve  miles  to  the  Ilecate  Strait,  while  *rom 
the  north  there  arc  two  large  arms  leading  twenty  miles  through  a  labyrinth  of 
channels. 

The  mountains  or.  either  side  of  Seafoi-th  Channel  are  not  S(»  high  as  along  the 
mor<^  interior  channels;  in  the  earlier  part  they  attain  one  thousainl  one  hundred 
feet,  while  most  of  the  shores  are  low  and  all  are  covered  M'ith  timber. 

In  ]Milbank  Sound,  t  about  three  miles  northwest  from  the  west  entrance  to 
Scaforth  Channel,  are  some  white  rocks  lifty  feet  high,  with  a  suidicn  rock  having 
two  fathoms  ujion  it,  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  east  of  them. 

The  course  is  inside  these  rocks,  which  lie  over  two  miles  from  the  nearest 
land  to  the  northeast. 

After  passing  the  white  rocks  keep  to  the  northwest,  to  avoid  a  .-.unken  rock 
four  miles  north  of  them  and  lying  one  mile  off  the  eastern  shore. 

jMilbank  Sound  is  eight  miles  across;  opening  southwest  directly  upon  the 
Hecate  Strait,  receives  the  full  force  of  the  southerly  swell. 

The  western  point  is  called  Voint  Bay,  off  which  numerous  islets  stretch  two 
miles  to  the  southwest. 

Xortlnvard  of  Milbank  Sonnd  the  strait,  taking  the  name  of  Finlayson  Chan- 
nel, riuis  nearly  north  for  thirty-two  miles  to  Carter  Bay,  with  an  average  width 
of  two  miles.  From  the  south  entrance  of  the  channel  a  peculiarly  marked  high 
pyramidal  mountain  is  seen  to  the  north-northeast.  It  was  called  the  Quartz 
IVIountain  by  the  Count  Survey,  and  is  named  Striped  Mountain  on  "the  admiralty 
charts  on  account  of  a  great  white  streak  down  its  south  side,  evidently  the  rock 


"Nimu'd  l>y  Ciipliiin  Juiiirs  Diinciiii  in  1780. 
t Named  liy  C'aptuiu  Jumps  JJunoaii  in  1786. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


13 


(lomided  of  Hoil  mid  trees.  Tliis  inoiiiitniii  is  wcMulod  noiiily  to  its  smniiiit,  iiiid  tiio 
broiid  white  streidv,  extending  almost  Irom  tlic  summit  to  tiie  bottom,  is  a  very 
distinctive  mark. 

Tlio  land  at  tlie  base  of  the  mountain  is  a  comparative  idateau,  sjiarsdy  cov- 
ered with  lierba]ije.  It  is  tlie  lirst  untimbered  .space  we  saw  in  mnwii  nortii 
tlirouffli  these  cliannels. 

We  estimated  its  elevation  at  over  two  thousand  feet,  wliile  hif,'her  nu)untain.s 
appeared  to  the  south  of  it.  It  was  a  litth;  over  a  mil*  from  the  water,  and 
bounded  on  the  north  by  a  clnnuu^l  leadinj?  northeast  to  another  louf-'  unnamed 
strait.  The  position  of  this  mountain  is  latitude  o'J'^  27'.-',  longituih'  ll'So  21'.."», 
ami  should  be  readily  distiugnisluMl  by  any  vessel  coming  round  Day  Point  from 
Ueeate  Strait.  Abreast  of  this  Striped  Mountain  and  near  the  western  shore  thci 
admiralty  chart  has  no  bottom  at  one  hundred  and  .seven  fathoms.  As  the  chart 
in  this  region  is  oidy  in  outline,  the  following  extract  from  our  Jourmd  may  not  be 
uninteresting.  "About  ten  miles  north  of  this  mountain  on  the  western  shore  Im  a 
timbered  hill,  shaped  remarkubl,\  like  an  old-fashioned  cocked  hat,  a.s  seen  from 
the  southward.  It  is  over  eight  huiulred  feet  high,  and  is  in  reality  a  small  islan<l, 
with  the  mountains  west  of  it  rising  alxmt  three  thousand  feet  high.  Nearly 
abreast  of  it  on  the  eastern  shore  is  the  lirst  cascade  we  noticed  going  north.  Jt 
comes  from  a  crater-like  depression  in  the  high  mountains.  Three  miles  further 
nortli  on  the  western  shore  is  a  mountain  lake,  with  a  flue  cascade  breaking  o\  er 
the  rim  of  the  crater-like  basin  and  foaming  for  several  hundred  feet  down  the 
mountain  side." 

The  heights  of  the.se  mountains  we  afterwiird  approximately  determined  from 
Carter  Bay,  and  found  two  thousand  nine  hundred  and  eighty-four  feet  and  two 
thousand  seven  hundred  and  twenty-four  ft>et;  this  will  give  a  fair  average  of  the 
elevation  of  the  shore  mountains  in  tliis  channel. 

In  latitude  '>2°  ."JS',  or  ten  miles  nortli  of  Strijicd  Mountain,  acccu'ding  to 
Admiralty  Chart  No.  1923,  there  is  a  channel  opening  to  the  west  with  a  laige 
island  in  the  entrance;  this  clianuel  runs  north-northwest  for  about  seven  miles, 
(when  an  opening  makes  to  the  .south westward,)  then  ntn-th-northeast  eleven 
miles  into  the  regular  channel  north  of  Carter  Hay. 

This  side  channel  has  not  been  examined,  but  we  are  informed  that  it  has 
been  traversed,  found  good,  has  an  average  width  of  nearly  a  mile,  ar--'  avoids 
the  shoal  and  Hewitt  Eock,  with  ten  feet  on  it  at  low  water,  situate<l  in  the  regular 
channel  at  its  narrowest  part,  Ave  miles  northward  from  the  southwest  point  of 
(barter  Bay.  Whether  the  island  in  the  southern  entrance  to  this  channel  or  the 
"Cone  Point"  of  the  admiralty  chart  is  our  "Cocked  Hat,"  we  have  no  present 
means  of  determining,  as  we  used  the  very  erroneous  English  Chart  No.  2430. 

Nine  miles  northward  of  Striped  Mountain  the  admiralty  chart  has  sound- 
ings of  forty-four  fathoms,  rocky  bottom  in  mid-channel,  and  five  and  a  half  miles 
further  north  soundings  of  fifty  fathoms,  i-ocky  bottom. 

In  latitude  52°  48'  Finlayson  Channel  divides;  a  narrow  continuation  runs 


14 


ALASKA  COAST  I'll.OT. 


iMirtli  iiortliciist,  iiiiil  an  aiiri  ciillcd  Ship  I'i  vsigc  .stictehcs  east-uoi-theast  to 
:;\liisscl  Inlet. 

Citrfrr  /.V(//.— I'ariiij;-  tlic  soutli,  w  itli  a  cliannol  to  the  northwest,  and  another 
to  tlie  noitlicast,  lies  the  openinfi  of  this  hay,  with  as  harp,  tinihercd  mountain  rid;;o 
(wo  tlKMisand  one  hnnih'cd  and  ci.niit.v  feet  liij-Ii  on  tlie  west,  and  a  hi«li  mountain 
two  limusand  tiiice  liumhcd  and  ten  1'eet  lii<;ii  on  (lie  east.  Tiiis  isouc  of  tlicniost 
convenient  anelioras^'^  i"  these  channels.  Tin-  hay  proi>er  is  ahout  a  mih-  deep  by 
hall' a  mih' in  wiiltli,  ^ninhially  (h'creasinfj  to  tlie  head,  where  a  tiat  has  tormed  at 
the  mouth  of  a  small  rapid  stream,  emptyin;;-  a  lake;  about  a  mile  (bstant. 

The  best  anchorajie  is  in  tifteen  fathoms,  muddy  bottom,  about  three  hundred 
yards  from  eitluM'  shore,  and  tour  hundred  yards  from  the  Hat. 

Ill  this  position  the  southwest  taii{;;eiit  of  the  land  will  bear  southwest  by  west, 
and  the  southeast  tangent  south  by  east.  Three  fathoms  can  be  carried  to  the 
v*]iH'  of  the  Hat,  and  ten  fathoms  close  to  the  shores  on  eitlier  bank.  The  stream 
emptyiiii;'  into  this  bay  comes  thronj;h  a  t>orj>e  in  the  mountains,  and  abouiidsiii 
speckled  trout.  They  were  caught  ten  inches  long  without  a  rod,  but  siinjily  a  line 
held  in  the  hand,  with  a  hook  baited  with  clams  dug  frojii  the  Hat  at  low  water. 
Tracks  mid  signs  of  animals  were  jdeiity,  but  traveling  is  very  ditUcult. 

"From  the  anchorage  in  Carter  l>ay,  looking  down  Finlayson  Channel  south- 
west by  west  true,  a  splendid  view  jiresents  itself;  precipitous  mountains  over- 
hunging  the  vessel  on  either  hand,  and  high  mountains  in  the  distance  on  both 
sides  of  the  channel.  On  the  west  side,  about  seven  miles  distant,  two  huge 
peaks  tbrm  i)art  of  the  rim  of  a  great  mountain  lake,  the  patches  of  snow  in  their 
gorges  (August  1st)  and  river  sides  deiiriving  them  of  much  of  the  massive  gran- 
deur of  their  granite  formation.  Towards  the  channel  and  the  water's  edge  their 
Hanks  tor  one  thousand  live  hundred  fec^t  are  covered  with  timber. 

Carter  15ay  was  named  by  Vancouver  after  one  of  his  crew  who  died  from 
eating  poisonous  mussels,  and  was  luiried  here  in  May,  17!);5. 

Xoitli  of  Carter  Bay  no  name  has  been  applied  to  the  narrow  channel  running 
for  thirty-four  miles  to  Kiiigcome  Point,  where  the  main  channel  makes  a  sharp 
turn  to  the  west. 

This  channel  averages  about  half  a  mile  in  width,  with  very  precipitous  shores. 
Five  miles  from  the  south  entrance  of  this  narrow  strait  the  passage  is  contracted 
and  the  depth  of  water  shoals  to  a  few  fathoms.  At  this  contraction  is  found 
Hewitt  Ilock,  nearly  in  mid-channel,  with  only  ten  feet  of  Avater  over  it  at  low 
tide.  The  general  direction  to  avoid  this  danger  is  to  "  keep  the  north  shore 
aboard."  Half  a  mile  northwest  of  it  is  the  east  point  of  the  side  or  parallel 
channel,  coming  into  this  strait  from  the  locality  of  the  "  Cocked  Hat."  In  passing 
through  this  reach  Vancouver  says,  (vol.  II,  p.  201,)  "at  the  entrance  of  the 
channel  running  northward  from  the  southwest  jioiii*-  of  Carter  Bay  the  width 
was  narrowed  to  about  a  Iburth  (»r  a  mile,  and,  having  proceeded  abont  four  miles, 
the  Chatham  smldcnly  found  only  six  fathoms  of  water  on  a  shoal  stretching  from 
the  starboard,  or  continental  shore,  into  mid-channel ;  this  we  passed  on  the  oppo- 


^1 


ALASKA  COAST  IMLOT. 


15 


site  side  in  ei^Jliteon  and  twenty  fntlioins  water.  JU-yiunl  this,  wiiicli  is  tlie  nar- 
rowost  part  of  the  diannd,  foinicd  by  a  iii;;li,  ronnd,  project inf;  i)art  of  tiie  sontli- 
west  shore,  appearintjlike  an  ishind,  the  <'iiannel  wideneil  to  nearly  half  u  lea^'UP, 
and  an  extensive  opening::,  takin;^'  a  sontheriy  direction,  indicated  a  eonininnica- 
tit)n  with  the  ocean."  This  is  the  western  cliannel  tinit  opens  near  tlie  "Cocked 
Uat." 

Two  nulos  northward  of  this  op(!ninf(  a  bay  culled  Grey's  [nh't  opens  to  the 
eastward,  Imt  no  aonndinj;s  are  given  in  it.  Six  and  a  iialf  miles  northward  of 
Hewitt  Ivock  the  channel  has  a  depth  of  tl;irty-ei;;lit  fathoms,  rocky  bottom.  In 
latitude  53°  1'  the  channel  has  its  least  width  of  twolifths  of  a  mile. 

Throuf-hont  this  narrow  strait  are  ininierons  markin<,'s  where  tiieavalaneheaof 
snow  have  swept  down  the  steep  mountain  sides  and  carried  tindier  and  earth 
with  them,  leaving  tracks  of  bare  rock. 

In  some  cases  the  trees  have  been  forced  into  the  channel;  in  others  their 
dead  trunks,  in  yrotestpu^  confusion,  arc  found  at  tiie  foot  of  tlie  slide. 

About  latitude  5^5°  ()'>'  on  the  western  shore  is  a  cascade  formed  by  a  great 
body  of  water  pouring  over  a  rocky  incline  from  a  lakc^  at  the  base  of  an  immense 
circle  of  perpendicular  mountains.  At  the  ]tr«)[)er  season  it  is  a  great  lesort  for  the 
natives  when  fishing  for  salnum,  as  the  cascade  is  not  too  high  for  the  salmon  h) 
eftect  an  entrance  to  the  lake.  Several  other  lakes,  and  three  rushing,  tumbling 
overflows,  falling  three  hundred  to  four  hundred  feet,  are  seen  in  the  next  twenty 
miles,  all  on  the  same  side  of  the  channel. 

Through  this  (jhaiuiel  Vancouv"  ^ays  he  could  find  no  bottom  with  one  hnn- 
dred  and  sixty-five  to  one  hundred  and  eighty-live  fathoms  of  line,  but  the  indica- 
tions on  the  admiralty  chart  do  not  conlirm  these  great  depths.  OlF  Point  King- 
come  and  to  the  westward  of  it  there  are  soundings  without  bottom  in  one  hun- 
dred and  eighty-nine  and  one  hundred  and  seventy-nine  fathoms. 

In  the  narrow  channel  Vancouver  says  that  "in  the  vicinity  of  r>,'P  14' ]\rr. 
Whidbey  discovered  a  deep  cove  near  this  locality,  a  smoke  issuing  from  among 
the  stones  on  the  shore,  that  at  low  tide  formed  a  kind  of  beach.  On  examina- 
tion a  run  of  hot  water  was  found  i)assiiig  among  the  stones,  which,  at  high  tide 
must  be  at  least  six  feet  beneath  the  surface  of  the  sea.  They  were  not  able  to 
discover  its  source,  and,  having  no  thermometer,  its  degree  of  heat  could  not  bo 
ascertained.  Some  of  the  seamen  attempted  to  wash  their  hands  in  it,  but  found 
the  heat  inconvenient.  It  had  a  saltish  taste,  and  Mr.  Whidbey  was  of  opinion 
that  the  rapidity  with  which  it  flowed  could  scarcely  permit  of  its  receiving  this 
savor  from  the  sea  water." — Vol.  II,  p.  L'09. 

A  deep  bay  opens  abreast  of  Work  Island,  in  latitude  53°  12',  and  stretches 
two  miles  northward.  Abreast  of  a  large  landslide  on  the  east  shore,  in  latitude 
r>3'^  14',  the  mid-channel  depth  is  sixty-four  fathoms,  over  rocky  bottom. 

At  Point  Kingcome  one  of  the  three  great  arms  stretches  northward  forty 
miles,  with  anchorage  about  three  miles  from  the  point,  on  the  east  shore,  at  tlie 
mouth  of  Fisherman  or  liibachy  Creek.    From  Point  Kingcome  the  main  channel 


ir, 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


niiis  wi'stwanl  niii*'  iiiilcs,  wIdtc  ;;r<-iit  cIiiiiiiicIh  o|i('ii  to  th(«  north  aii«l  Huiith,  ))iit 
tlir  (liicil  n»iit<'  is  tlirniiKli  Cln-fiiN  illc  (liiiimcl,  whose  soutlu'ni  ciitniiice  lies  north 
(HP  wi'Mt,  ci^iht  niih's  from  the  north  point  of  Ilornc  Ha.,. 

llitnif  Hdji  is  on<'  (»f  the  tew  anriiora^ics  in  this  vicinity,  an*l  is  sitnatcd 
(liicclly  uniltr  tlic  point,  seven  or  ei;;ht  niih's  west  of  Kin;;coine;  it  is  eontiaetetl, 
M'itli  fireal  deptli,  except  n(  tiie  liead  where  we  anchored  in  it,  in  seventeen  fatli- 
onis,  two  iinndred  yards  from  low-water  line.  It  opens  to  the  northwest.  (Sec 
sketch  in  .\(linira]ty  Chait  No.  I!KH,  where  it  is  called  Holmes  Uay.) 

(iirnrilli'  (.'IkiiudI. — From  the  sonth  entrance,  in  latitude  .l.'P  lil',  this  renuirk- 
ahly  strai^tht  and  narrow  <iianncl  runs  forty  live  miles  alxmt  north  40°  west,  with 
the  nni>rok<'n  shore  of  I'itt  Island  on  the  west,  and  the  eastern  shore  of  the  main- 
land, broken  at  regular  intervals  by  tlin'o  inletM.  Tlie  dt'pth  thron<;hont  tho 
greater  i)art  ran^'t's  thron;;h  sivty-one,  lifty,  to  forty-nine  fathoms,  over  rocky  bot- 
tom, and  seventy  fatiioms  o\er  mnd.  The  narrowest  part  of  the  channel  i.s  not 
over  six  hundred  or  st'ven  hundred  yards  wide,  and  on  account  of  tho  great 
]iei;;hl  of  theshoies  appears  much  less. 

The  followin;;'-  description  from  our  journal  will  convoy  an  idea  of  some  of  the 
strikinji' points  of  the  sc!  iiery.  "  Tiie  o\er(iow.-;  of  f;i'eat  lakes  in  the  mountains 
jiour  down  the  steei)  declivitii's;  f^reat  swaths  throu;^]!  tiie  heavy  .spruce  tind)er 
reach  from  mountain  summit  to  water's  od^e,  markiii}?  the  cour.se  of  rcsi-stlesa 
avalanches  ;  the  upper  part  of  these  paths  well  cleared  of  all  timber,  the  lower 
reach  covered  wilii  tlie  dead  trunks,  frcipiently  pointinj;-  in  one  direction;  bri^^iit 
t;reen  streaks  mark  the  course  of  older  avalanches,  where  a  new  yrowth  of  veye- 
I  at  ion  has  .sprung  up;  throuf^h  rifts  and  {gorges  in  the  numntain  .shores  are  seen 
mountains  of  {granite,  reachiu),' an  elevation  of  from  four  thou.sand  to  .six  thousand 
feet,  some  smooth,  domed,  and  t,'ray,  with  every  ravine  and  <'revice  fdled  with 
suow,  (Auj^ust  li,)  and  tricklinjj;  streams  therefrom,  others  covered  with  patches  of 
dark  j^reen  to  relieve  the  wildue.ss  of  the  scenery." 

Fourteen  miles  from  tlu'  southeru  entrance  anchorage  is  had  in  Lowe  Inlet  ou 
the  east  .shore;  half  a  nule  inside  the  entrance  of  this  inlet  bottom  is  found  at 
eif,'hteen  fathoms.  The  a])proacIi  to  this  inlet  from  the  .south  is  indi(!ated  by  a 
bare  hill  four  hundred  feet  \u<<;h  on  the  western  .shore,  two  nules  southeast  of  tho 
entrance  which  opens  directly  to  the  .south.  Five;  miles  from  the  northern  ex- 
trenuty  anchorage  is  Ibnnd  on  the  western  shore  in  Steicart  Uuthor. 

Anchorage  in  ten  fathoms  on  the  iu)rthwest  side  of  a  point  or  tongue  fonning 
the  east  sith'  of  tiie  harbor,  and  itrojecting  half  a  mile  north  from  the  shore.  A 
rock  is  laid  down  half  a  mile  northwest  of  the  extremity  of  this  point,  having  thir- 
teen feet  at  low  water,  and  another  just  in.side,  bare  at  low  Avater.  (See  Admiralty 
Chart  Xo.  litOl.) 

Tlie  northern  end  of  the  Grenville  Channel  expands  to  three  miles  in  width, 
but  the  middle  is  occui»ied  by  a  large  group  of  comparatively  low,  wooded  islands 
called  the  Clil-son  (iroup.  The  usual  channel  is  to  the  west  of  them,  and  when 
abreast  of  them  the  wide  pa.ssage  to  the  sea,  kuowu  as  Ogden  Channel,  opens  to 


ALAHKA  COAST  I'lLOT. 


17 


tlio  Noiitlnvt'st.  Nearly  west  from  tlic  ii<  iMi  ciiil  of  tlio  (Jiltsori  (iioiip  is  a  siiuill. 
low,  woodt-d  point,  iiiakiii;;  out  lialt'ii  iiiilr,  with  very  tlct'p  water  at  its  south  side, 
but  linviii^  aiieliora;;e  on  the  north  side.  In  this  vicinil/  the  roeks  are  nietainor 
idde slates,  sandstones,  and  shales,  trending;  northwest  and  southeast;  some  small 
barren  (|uarlz  veins  aceompany  the  slates.  In  this  vieinity  we  found  the  water 
ehant,'<'  its  eoUu-  to  a  dirty  white,  evidently  brought  from  the  river  Skip,  through 
Port  Kssinyton.  Hence  northward  thi^  waters  expand  into  larjfe  arms  and  s<uinds. 
Chatham  Sound,  lyinjr  n»«arly  north  and  s()uth  for  forty  miles,  connects  the  waters 
we  have  passed  tlirou;;h  with  those  of  Dixon  Sound  and  the  Straits  of  the  Alex- 
ander Arch  ip»'la;,'(h  Sunken  roe vs  are  laid  down  on  the  charts,  but  their  jMisitions 
are  doubtful.  On  the  east  sicl^  of  the  sound,  in  latitude  .Ito  LM)',  lies  TuH'weil 
Ishuid,  connec^ted  with  the  maiidand  by  a  low  .4ind  spit  nearly  two  miles  lon^; 
east  and  west,  and  for'  injj  the  bay  of  Mvtlahitla  on  thc^  south,  protected  from 
the  northwest  wiiuls  au<l  swell ;  and  Duncan  liaij  on  the  north  side,  prote(!te<l  from 
the  southeast  wiiuls.  The  Admiralty  Thin  No.  ;J«J4,  exhibits  the  details  of  these 
bays.  The  country  behind  these  bays  is  pleasantly  rolling,',  with  i)atches  of  open 
ground.  A  thriving  village,  with  an  Episcopal  missioimry  <?hurch  is  hwutcd  here. 
Port  SimpHon. — In  the  easternmost  part  of  Dixon  Sound,  where  it  meets  the 
north  itart  of  Chatham  Sound,  and  tlfteen  miles  north  of  ]3uncait  Bay,  lies  this 
large  bay,  open  to  the  west,  but  protected  by  iv  large  reef,  and  by  Birnie  Island. 
The  north  shores  of  this  bay  run  northwest  and  southeast  f(»r  nearly  four  miles; 
and  the  south  shore  lies  east  and  west,  over  two  miles.  On  the  north  side  of  the 
southwest  jioint  is  the  usiud  anchorage,  oft"  the  st^iticm  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Clom- 
pany,  and  the  large  village  of  the  Chim-nhijanH.  Two  miles  west  of  Fort  Simpson 
lies  the  north  end  of  the  moderately  high  and  wooded  island  named  Finlayson, 
from  which  the  south  end  of  the  moderately  liigh  and  wooded  island,  named 
Birnie,  lies  north  tH°  east,  one  ami  a  half  mile.  The  triangular  space  between 
the  north  end  of  Finlayson,  the  south  point  of  Birnie,  and  Fort  Simpson,  is  mostly 
occupied  by  an  extensive  rix-ky  reef,  r.ncovering  at  many  points  at  low  water. 
Two  passages  lead  to  Poi't  Simpson:  one,  the  southern,  lies  between  the  east  shore 
of  Fiidayson  Island  and  the  nmin,  three  miles  long,  north  and  south,  and  half  a 
mile  wide  in  narrowest  part,  with  a  very  narrow  passag'e  through  the  r^tH;  this  is 
that  usually  pursued  by  the  Hudson  Bay  Company's  vessels  coming  from  and 
returning  south.  Another,  the  northern  and  the  safer  passage,  is  between  the 
^outh  end  of  Birnie  Island  and  the  north  point  of  the  reef,  lying  half  a  mile  south 
tfit.  This  channel  has  about  twenty  fathoms  of  water.  Piiss  within  one-quarter 
(tf  a  mile  of  the  south  rocky  point  of  Birnie  Island,  steering  east-southeast  one 
mile,  or  until  the  easternmost  Indian  houses  bear  south-southeast,  and  run  for 
them  until  the  stockade  bears  south  three-cpjarters  west,  about  six  huiulred  or 
seven  hundred  yards  distant,  when  anchorage  will  be  found  in  ten  or  eleven 
fathoms.  These  courses  will  keep  the  eastern  edge  of  the  reef  distant  over  a 
quarter  of  a  mile. 

The  rise  and  fall  of  tides  permit  large  \  essels  being  laid  out  here  for  repairs, 
3 


18 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


head  on  the  beach,  on  the  west  side  of  the  rocks  npon  which  the  hmding  jetty 

is  built. 

IIi«li  Avater  at  full  and  change  12/i.  S'tm.;  spring  tides  twenty-one  and  a 

half  feet ;  •'eaps  fourteen  and  a  half  feet. 

Admiralty  IMan  Xo.  -'4L'G,  published  1856,  exhibits  the  details  of  this  port  an- 
chorage and  approaches.  In  this  chart  the  geogTaphical  position  of  the  stockade 
is  latitude  5P  33'  3.5"  notMi,  longitude  130o  25'  30"  west.  In  Admiralty  Chart  No. 
2431,  i)ublished  in  1805,  the  Altitude  is  58°  38'  north,  and  longitude  130°  20'.2  west; 
iu  No.  H)23  A,  ])ublished  in  1S(.8,  the  latitude  is  5P  33'.4  north,  and  longitude  130° 
20'.1  west.    Chart  No.  2431  is  evidently  founded  upon  Tebenkott''s. 

Vessels  approaching  i:*oviHi»ipson  by  the  northern  passage  will  avoid  a  large 
reef  called  the  rointers,  lyiiig  three  miles  north,  seventy  west  from  the  south  end 
of  Birnie  Island. 

Fort  iiimpson  is  a  stockaded  post  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  and  the  most 
imi)ortant  iu  this  section  of  the  country.  It  consists  of  a  S(puire,  timbered  pali- 
sade, with  a  front  of  two  hundred  feet,  and  depth  of  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet, 
having  wooden  bastions  and  the  northwest  and  southwest  augles. 

It  is  entered  by  a  large  gate  opposite  the  beach,  and  has  one  or  two  snudler 
doors  at  the  rear,  leading  to  the  vegetable  gardens.  Within  this  stockade  are 
large  timber  buildings  for  the  traders  and  their  families,  for  storehouses,  mess- 
house,  and  the  great  building  on  the  west  side  for  the  reception  of  the  furs  until 
ready  for  shipment.  The  roofs  of  the  houses  showed  many  marks  of  ritle  huV  ;  of 
belligerent  parties  of  Indians,  when  firing  at  each  other,  and  also  when  firing 
upon  the  post. 

The  United  States  Coast  Survey  station  was  between  the  outer  fence  and  the 
stockade,  on  the  Avest  side  of  the  great  gate.  No  observations  could  be  obtained 
for  latitude,  which  is  assumed  approximately  at  .54°  33'  3,5";  the  longitude  was 
determined  at  13(P  22'  4!)",  or  8/t.  41)h.  31.3s.  west. 

The  habitations  of  the  Indians  number  about  one  hundred,  and  aie  generally 
large  wooden  buildings,  from  thirty  to  lori,j  +'"et  wide,  sixty  feet  long,  and  flftvicn 
to  twenty  feet  high. 

J>efore  most  of  the  houses  there  is  a  tall  thick  post,  carved  with  grotes(pie 
ligiues.    I'liese  are  illustrated  in  the  accompanying  views. 

When  all  the  tribes  and  branches  are  assembled  they  nundier  nearly  two 
thousand  souls.  Very  few  are  hunters,  but  all  are  inter-traders.  They  frequently 
endeavor  to  ])revent  the  Ilydahs,  of  Trince  of  Wales  Island,  Alaska,  from  trading 
directly  with  the  lliulson  Hay  Company,  but  the  Ilydahs  generally  come  in  large 
nund)ers,  armed,  and  witho^.t  their  women.  The  Indians  of  this  section  are  all 
good  carvers  of  silver,  and  very  ingenious.    Some  read,  Avrite,  and  speak  English. 

The  countiy  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Fort  Simpson  is  not  high,  and  for 
half  a  mile  back  has  been  cleared  of  wood  tor  fuel  and  building.  IJut  the  soil  is 
covered  w  h  a  foot  or  tw(»  of  moss,  sphagnum,  thoroughly  saturated  with  rain- 
water, and  almost  impassable  to   the   traveler.    We  were  unable  to  find  firm 


ryV"     '  ^•'  ■-  T^TT-twTnn  iriP 


US 


w 


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hi- 


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'Mr 


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Alstii^.-^vfei'i'  ',>'." 


I 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


19 


ground  for  the  transit  block  except  in  the  well-drained  soil  inside  the  grounds  of 
the  compi'.ny. 

The  season  of  1807  was  one  of  remarkable  prosperity  to  tlie  Jliidson  Bay 
Company  at  this  post,  and  the  stock  of  furs  the  finest  and  heaviest  purchased  for 
many  years. 

Berries  were  not  ripe  August  1  in  the  company's  garden,  but  some  were 
found  ripe  in  the  forest;  potatoes  Avere  in  bloom;  cabbages  never  head;  lettuce 
was  very  tine  and  crisp.    Eoot  crops  mature ;  cereals  do  not. 

The  geology  of  this  vicinity  is  dilferent  I'rom  that  ol'  the  narrow  channels  and 
atraits  to  the  southward. 

The  islands  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  to  the  southwest  are  compara- 
tively low,  though  to  the  north  and  northwest  high  snow-capped  mountains  are  to 
be  seen.  The  rocks  in  the  vicinity  of  the  fort  are  regularly  stratified  mica  schists, 
generally  garnetiferous,  and  sometimes  i)yritiferous;  these  ])i)ss  into  gneiss  and 
granite.  Tlieir  trend,  as  examined  along  the  shore  near  the  fort,  is  nearly  north- 
west and  southeast,  (magnetic,)  and  their  dip  is  thirty  degrees  to- the  northeast. 

Tlie  schists  are  seamed  with  numerous  intercalated  <piartz  veins,  in  some 
instances  highly  charged  with  iron  pyrites.  According  to  the  factor  of  the  Hud- 
son Bay  Company  at  this  post,  gold  is  to  be  found  by  panning  almost  anywhere  in 
the  vicinity;  repeated  trials  which  were  made  at  dift'erent  points,  particularly  in 
the  bed  of  a  small  stream  two  miles  northeast  from  the  fort,  failed  to  establish  the 
correctness  of  his  assertion. 


ALASKA. 


COAST  CLIMATE  OF  ALASKA. 

The  experience  and  observations  of  a  few  months  upon  this  coast  can  do 
little  towards  determining  the  average  conditions  of  the  climate,  but  the  valuable 
published  records  of  the  observatory  at  Sitka,  from  1849  to  18G2  inclusive,  have 
been  examined,  reduced,  condensed,  and  tabulated  in  the  appendix;  while  the 
small  table  herewith  exhibited  contains  the  results  of  the  observations  published 
to  1SG4. 

For  the  climate  of  the  Aleutian  chain  the  observations  i^t  Iliouliouk  on 
Unalaska  Island,  by  Bishop  Veniaminoff,  from  1825  to  18.'J4,  have  been  reduced, 
re-arranged,  and  condensed  in  the  Ai)i>endix  No.  '6,  In  addition  thereto  is  a  table 
in  cxtenm  of  the  observations  of  Priest  Shayesuikoff  at  Iliouliouk,  during  tho 
winter  of  18CG-'07,  being  i)art  of  a  regular  series  maintained  by  him. 

The  existence  of  a  branch  of  the  warm  .lajtanese  stream  carrying  to  this 
coast  its  waters  imposes,  at  the  outset,  the  necessity -of  a  high  isothermal  line 
along  the  whole  northwest  coast  of  America.    The  records  of  thi;  state  of  the 


20 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


tlionnoiiu'tor  establish  the  fact ;  the  botany  and  even  the  conchoh>f,'.v  of  the  wliolo 
vefiion  a(M  th<'ir  certain  confiiniation. 

Tlie  whok".  sontheast  coast  of  the  Ahaska  peninsula  is  bathed  by  these  same 
waters,  which  retain  a  high  temperature  to  Kadiak;  thence  westward  this  temper- 
ature (lecrciiscs,  althonn'h  the  latitude  decreases. 

Tlie  report  of  the  botanist  exhibits  a  fh)ra  that  could  not  exist  in  this  latitude 
without  an  unusually  liif^h  isothernud  condition,  accompanied  with  a  great  con- 
densation of  vapor  an<l  precipitation  of  rain. 

Our  collection  of  shells  has  not  yet  been  studied  suflftciently  to  at!'ord  data  on 
this  point,  but  we  have  the  authority  of  Woodward's  Manual  of  the  Mollusea  for 
saying  that  among  the  Aleutian  Lslands  *'  the  influence  of  the  Asiatic  curre'it  is 
shown  in  the  presence  of  two  species  of  llalioten,  whih'  aftinity  with  the  fauna*  of 
West  Anu'rica  is  strongly  indicated  by  the  occurrence  of  Patella,  (mitra,)  three 
species  of  Crepidula,  two  of  Fissiirclla,  and  species  of  J'loctinomia,  Saxidomus,  and 
Velricnln,  which  are  more  abundant  aiul  range  furilier  north  than  their  allies  in 
the  Athintie." 

On  our  passage  inside  of  Vancouver  Island,  from  Victoria  to  Port  Simpson, 
in  r)4o  .'34',  the  temperature  of  the  surface  water,  in  the  latter  part  of  July  and 
ejuly  i)art  of  August,  was  020.1 ;  that  of  the  air,  .^4o.9.  Outside  the  Alexander 
Archipelago,  from  Port  Simpson  to  Sitka,  in  57°  0.']',  the  temperature  of  the 
suifa<'e  water  was  o^o.l ;  air,  54°.!).  In  Sitka  Harbor,  where  the  cokl  waters  of  the 
mountains  affect  the  Wiaters  of  the  sound,  our  observations,  from  August  13  to 
the  li-M,  gave  oOo.o  for  the  surface  water,  and  53o.4  for  the  air.  On  the  voyage 
from  Sitka  to  Kadiak,  August  22  to  the  2oth,  the  surface  water  was  49o.4,  and 
the  temperature  of  the  air  o.'P.o;  the  temperature  of  the  water  decreasing 
irregularly  from  uOo.O  to  47°.!,  but  variable.  In  the  hrrbor  of  St.  Paid,  from 
August  20  to  the  Slst,  the  siuCace  water  was  450.8,  air  40O.5.  On  the  voyage 
from  Kadiak  to  llnalaska,  August  ."51  to  September  (5,  the  surface  water  was 
4.')0.<»,  and  very  uniform,  the  lowest  being  45o.l;  the  temperatarc  of  the  a'r  was 
48.9.  In  Ulakbta  Harbor,  in  Unalaska  Bay,  from  September  (i  to  the  12th,  the 
surfa<'e  water  was  4.")0.4,  and  air  51^.0;  the  temperature  of  the  water  reaching  as 
low  as  420.9.  From  Unalaska  to  Sitka,  September  13  to  the  20th/ the  surface 
water  was  49o.4,  rising  from  4l)0  to  50°  as  we  advanced  westward.  In  Sitka 
Harbor,  from  September  21  l^  the  2Gth,  the  surface  water  was  49'-''.4,  and  the  air 
51o,t5,  At  the  mouth  of  the  Chilkaht  Itiver,  at  the  head  of  Chatham  Strait,  in 
latitude  59°  12',  and  sixty  miles  east  of  Mount  Fairweather,  October  17  and 
18,  the  temperature  of  the  water  M\as  39°,  and  t'  e  air  42o.2.  At  Sitka,  on  the 
27tli  of  October,  when  the  mountains  were  covered  with  snow,  and  snow  and  hail 
had  fiillen  on  the  water,  its  temperature  was  41°,  and  that  of  the  air  44o.    In  all 

•  The  coiu'liolojru'iil  fnuiia  of  West  Anicrifii  from  Port  .Simpson  to  Atton  Islniirt,  and  inchiding 
the  Bhurt's  of  liristol  liny,  iiml  tlic  I'riliylof  Ishinds,  is  undivided.  North  of  that  bounded  ahing 
short*  by  tlie  line  of  tloiiting  iee^  and  at  the  bottom  of  the  sea  by  temperature  of  the  water,  extends 
the  truly  oireumboreul  fauna  eommon  to  Belirinj;  Strait,  Greenland,  the  OcUotsk  Sea,  and  thft 
extreme  north  of  Kurope.  W.  H.  Daix. 


ALASK^V  COAST  PILOT, 


21 


these  cases  it  is  remarked  that  the  temperature  of  the  air  was  nearly  "P  liigher 
than  that  of  the  water.  Lisiansky,  on  his  voyage  from  Kadiak  to  Sitka,  August 
10-20,  1804,  witli  fresh  westerly  winds,  found  the  temperature  of  the  air  '>',i°, 
and  barometer  20.5  inehes,  but  he  records  no  observations  for  the  temperature  of 
the  water.  June  ln-2'2,  ISO,"),  on  his  voyage  from  Sitka  to  Kadiak,  with 
moderate  easterly  winds,  the  temperature  of  the  air  was  53°,  barometer  20.5 
inches;  November  11  to  15,  ISOl,  on  the  voyage  from  Sitka  to  Kadiak,  with 
fresh  easterly  gales,  the  temperature  of  the  air  was  40°,  barometer  20.2.  The 
observations  of  Lisiansky  have  a  certain  value,  but  the  temperatiue  of  the  water 
M'ould  have  added  greatly  to  tl>  importance.  We  see  in  those  regularly 
recorded  by  the  United  States  Coast  Survey  party,  three  times  a  «lay,  that  a 
great  body  of  warm  water  exists  off  the  coast;  for  we  hardly  reach  sixty  miles 
inside  the  Alexander  Archipelago  before  the  temperature  decreases  from  4(i°.5 
to  30°. 

Data  concerning  the  climate  of  the  interior  of  Alaska  are  wanting ;  observa- 
tions have  been  few  and  isolated.  From  gold  miners  who  have  been  nearly  tea 
years  on  the  Stikine  River,  debouching  into  tlie  Alexander  Archipelago  in  lati- 
tude 50°,  we  learn  that  east  of  the  coast  range  of  mountains  the  summers  are  dry 
and  comparatively  warm,  the  winters  very  severe,  with  heavy  falls  of  snow  that 
completely  stop  mining  oi)erations.  The  country  is  s])arsely  covered  with  a 
growth  of  small  trees.  The  engineer  engaged  in  exploring  the  inland  route  for  the 
llussian  American  telegraph  line,  reports  that  in  latitude  55°  and  longitude  12(io, 
2°  south  of  Sitka,  and  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles  east  t)f  (iueen  Charlotte 
Sound,  "gi'ound  ice"  can  be  found  at  any  time  of  the  year  at  a  depth  of  'rom  six 
to  eight  feet  below  the  surface,  and  in  that  region  the  surface  usually  freezes  to 
the  depth  of  two  feet  in  the  winter,  leaving  an  intervening  stratum  of  unfrozen 
soil  from  four  to  six  feet  thick.  This  ground  ice  does  not  prevent  the  grovth  of 
plants,  a  fact  confirmed  by  Seeman  in  his  "Botany  of  II.  M.  S.  Herald,  1845-51," 
in  western  lilsquimaux  land.  In  that  region  he  found  vegetation  flourish  where 
the  ground  ice  was  but  two  feet  from  the  surface. 

CLIMATE  OF  SITKA. 

Appendix  No.  Ill  gives  much  valuable  meteorologicid  information  condensed 
from  the  full  and  detailed  observations  made  at  the  Sitka  Magnetic  and  Jleteo- 
rological  Observatory,  on  Japonski  Island,  sustained  by  the  liberality  of  the 
Russian  American  Company  since  1847.  The  latter  published  records  have  not 
been  received  from  St.  Petersburg,  but  we  have  been  able  to  obtain  those  up  to 
1802  inclusive.  By  this  abstract  it  will  be  seen  that  the  mean  temperature  of  the 
year  at  Sitka,  in  latitude  57°  03',  derived  from  twelve  years'  observations,  is  42o.9 
Fahrenheit. 


;  ,i.:V'j.,:«. 


22 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


Ecf-iiiiiiiifr  with  tlio  iiiontli  of  INliiicli,  wo  ciiii  Judge  of  the  temperatiu'e  of  the 
dift'eic'iit  .si'iisous  by  the  following  scheme: 


MontliH. 


Mure  1 1 . . . 

April 

May 

JllIK" 

July 

August.. 

Si'iiti'inlH' 
Oi'titlici-.. 
Novi'inlic 

Pcci'IiiIk' 
.liiiiiiaiy. 
Ffliniaiy 


rnlireiilii'it. 


Spiisons. 


151)1111^. 

.SmuMifi'. 

A\iluniii. 
44^2 

Winter. 
31'^  i) 


111  the  general  table  will  be  found  one  mouth  of  unusual  cold  and  extraordi- 
nary clearness  of  Aveather.  In  November  18r»;{,  the  mean  temperature  of  the 
moiilli  was  only  l!)o.85,  but  0.451  inch  of  snow  fell  ujion  parts  of  six  days,  and 
the  month  was  marked  by  strong  iiortueast  winds.  The  highest  mean  for  any 
month  in  twelve  years  is  08°.;}  for  July  1800,  during  which  month  nine  days  are 
recorded  upon  which  rain  fell,  but  no  record  appears  of  the  amount. 

The  mean  of  all  the  minima  taken  from  the  daily  observations  for  nine  years 
of  the  above  period  is  .'?8o.t),  and  of  the  maximum  for  seven  years  48o.9,  showing 
a  remarkably  ecpiable  climate,  whilst  its  humidity  is  demonstrated  by  the  small 
difl'erences  of  the  wet  and  dry  bulb  thermometers. 

The  same  appendix  exhibits  the  monthly  and  yearly  amounts  of  rain,  melted 
snow  and  hail  that  have  fallen  for  fourteen  years,  and  also  the  number  of  days  in 
each  mouth  upon  which  rain,  snow,  or  hail  fell,  or  thick  fogs  prevailed. 

The  average  annual  amount  of  rain,  melted  snow  and  hail  that  fell  from  1847 
to  18(14,  (with  the  exceptitni  of  the  year  1855,)  was  82.06  inches,  or  -within  a 
fraction  of  seven  feet,  (yet  five  inches  less  than  the  fall  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  Kiver,)  and  the  average  annual  number  of  days  upon  which  rain,  snow, 
or  hail  fell,  or  heavy  fogs  prevailed,  was  two  hundred  and  finty-five,  or  two  days 
out  of  every  three,  while  it  does  not  tbllow  that  the  other  days  have  a  clear  sky. 

The  following  scheme  exhibits  the  rain-fall  for  the  ditferent  months  iu  sixteen 
and  a  half  years: 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT, 


23 


Mnntlis. 


Iiuhi's. 


Maroh.... 

April 

May 

Juno 

July 

AugHHt 

So])tpiul)er 
Ootolicr... 
November. 

Dprcnibcr. 
January... 
February . 


4.97 

5.  ao 

4.09 

:!.71 
4.:)9 

aw 

9.97 

11.91 

9.00 

7.89 

7. «:{ 

7.11 


Sca.tOMH. 


Inches, 
Siiriiij,'. 

14.  ao 

Sunnuor. 
14. 89 

Autumn. 
30.86 

Wint.'r. 
22.0;i 


Kainy  days  in  14. 1  vi'ars. 


18 


Sprin-;. 
.-'•'■' 

Sunimor. 
UG 

Autumn. 
72 

Wintor. 
57 


The  greatest  amount  of  rain  that  fell  during  any  one  year,  according  to  the 
tabulated  appendi.x,  was  95.8  inches,  or  eight  feet,  in  1850;  the  smallest  was  58.0 
inches  in  1801.  The  mo.st  that  fell  in  anj'  one  month  was  1!).5  inches,  in  October, 
1853;  the  least  was  0.5  inch,  in  November  1853.  But  the  Api)endi.\  shows  that  a 
rainfall  of  21.3  inches  took  place  in  August  1807;  10.0  inches  in  September,  and 
about  fifteen  inches  in  October,  or  quite  fifty-two  inches  of  rain  during  the  period 
of  our  expedition  to  Alaska. 

The  Appendix  gives  in  detail  the  daily  means  for  the  months  of  May,  June, 
July,  August,  and  September,  1807,  indicating,  in  part,  the  weather  we  have 
unfortunately  encountered,  and  the  amount  of  clear  sky,  from  means  of  nineteen 
hourly  observations  each  day. 

Liltke  has  given  interesting  tables,  conii)iled  from  two  years'  observations,  in 
1828  and  1820,  wherein  we  find  there  were,  on  an  average,  eadi  year,  one  hundred 
and  seventy  days  calm,  one  hundred  and  thirty-two  days  with  moderate  winds, 
and  sixtj'-thre'}  days  with  strong  winds.  Also,  an  a%'erage  of  seventy-four  line 
days,  one  hundred  and  seventy-four  days  on  which  rain  or  snow  had  fallen  at 
intervals,  and  one  hundrcMl  and  seventeen  days  on  which  rain  or  snow  had  fallen 
continually. 

Kotzebue  says  that "  in  the  middle  of  winter  the  cold  is  not  excessive  ami 
never  lasts  long."  "  Throughout  the  winter  of  1821-'o  the  weather  had  been  pai'- 
ticularly  mild;  the  snow  in  many  of  the  valleys  had  never  lain  above  a  few  hoins 
at  a  time."  "From  March  to  the  middle  of  August  1825,  there  was  an  almost 
uninterrupted  continuance  of  fine  weather." 

The  enormous  amount  of  rainfall  along  a  seaboard  essentially  cloudy  through- 
out the  year,  has  its  nornml  eliect  upon  the  class  of  vegetation  that  Avill  succeed 


24 


ALASKA  CHJAST  I'lLOT. 


in  ripcnin;?  niidpr  such  r-oiiditiiins  of  cliiiiato.  Tlio  whole  e.\t«'iit  of  country  sub- 
ject to  tlicsc  rains  is  covered  witii  spliiifjrniini  from  one  to  two  feet  in  depth;  even 
on  the  steepest  hillsich-s  tliis  carpet  is  saturated  witli  water,  and  renders  progress 
tliroufih  it  very  slow  and  dillieult,  psi)ecially  when  tliore  is  a  heavy  {j:rowth  of 
wood  and  un(U'rhrush.  At  Fort  Simpson,  the  Stikine,  Chillvalit,  Kadiak,  Una- 
hiska,  and  the  islan<'s  westward,  tiiis  unuass  exists  to  the  summits  or  snow  line  of 
the  mountains.  In  no  part  of  the  country,  exeei)t  on  two  or  three  nnmntain  sides 
on  Chatham  Strait,  between  the  eastern  entrance  of  Peril  Strait  and  tin*  mouth  of 
the  Chilkaht,  have  we  seen  horbafje  or  tP'es  destroyed  by  tiro,  as  is  so  universally 
resorted  to  in  Washin^ifor  and  Oregon,  both  by  the  natives  and  by  the  settlers. 
At  our  dilferent  stations  we  attempted  to  obtain  the  temi»erature  of  the  earth 
three  feet  below  tlie  surface,  but  never  penetrated  a  foot  before  the  hole  began  to 
tni  with  water. 

The  prevailing  grinds  in  winter  are  easterly,  and  if  from  the  southward  are 
accompanied  with  rain  and  snow;  wlien  from  the  northeast  the  Aveather  is  gene- 
rally clear  and  cold.  La  I't'-rouse  says  that  when  the  wind  is  but  a  few  degrees 
north  of  west  the  sky  is  geiu'rally  pretty  clear.  When  approaching  tin;  coast  in 
the  region  of  nehriiig  liny,  he  says:  "I  lirst  thought  these  seas  more  foggy  than 
those  wliieii  sei)aratc  Europe  and  America;  but  1  should  have  been  greatly  mista- 
ken to  have  inevocably  end)raced  this  ojjiniou.  The  fogs  of  Nova  Scotia,  New- 
foundland, and  IludscMi  Lay  have  an  incontestable  claim  to  pre-eminence  from 
their  constant  density."  The  stormy  weather  comim'uces  in  October;  storms  and 
tempests  are  frequent  in  November  and  December,  and  from  the  vicinity  of  Sitka 
the  aunu'u  bcnealis  is  seen  frequently  and  very  brilliant  during  clear  cold  nights. 
The  winter  weather  breaks  up  about  the  end  of  ^larch,  and  the  Kussian-American 
('onq)any's  vessels  arc  ready  lor  their  first  fur  trading  early  in  April,  when  the 
weather  is  cold  but  comparatively  dry.  ]Mai'ch,  April,  INIay,  June,  and  July, 
and  sonu'times  August,  are  good  months,  with  an  average  monthly  rainfall 
not  much  greater  than  that  on  the  Atlantic  coast. 

The  geiu'ral  oi)inion  of  the  old  navigators  and  fur  traders,  who  visited  and 
aometimos  wintered  on  thi~  coast,  was,  that  after  the  middle  of  September  it  was 
next  to  imiHtssible  to  continue  their  examinations  or  trading  trips,  and  they  either 
sought  more  southern  latitudes  or  wintered  in  some  well-sheltered  harbor.  The 
latter  was  generally  avoided,  on  account  of  the  losses  sustained  in  their  crews  by 
the  ravages  of  scurvy.  It  is  to  be  noted,  however,  that  these  tradin<i  renxeh  for 
HiHCOvcry  alone  rated  only  from  ouc  hundred  to  three  hundred  and  twenty  tons 
burden. 

The  weather  in  Cook's  Ldet,  north  of  (!0o  of  latitude,  is  said  to  be  uincli  better 
in  summer  than  along  the  coast  generally.  AVhen  fogs  and  rain  are  prevailing 
along  the  seaboard  and  at  the  entrance  to  the  inlet,  clear  skies  and  pleasant 
weather  exist  twenty  miles  Avitliin  the  inlet,  unless  very  heavy  soutbeasters  be 
blowing.    Dixon  reports  that  from  July  19  to  August  30,  1786,  he  observed  the 


III 

tl 
al 

ir 

al 

aj 

od 

ink 

bil 

v\ 

of 


ALASKA  (JOAST  PILOT. 


25 


mean  state  of  the  thcrmoinettT  to  be  oHAo.  Unless  exceptional,  this  is  waiinei- 
than  Sitka.  Most  of  the  old  navipitors  speak  of  the  pleasant  aspect  of  its  shores 
antl  its  sunimcr  climate.  The  eonii)any's  navinutors  all  combine  to  commend  it. 
Unfortnnately  we  have  not  any  available  records  of  mi'tt'orolo;j;ieal  observations 
at  the  Uussian  trading  esti.blishment  of  St.  Xieholas,  on  the  east  side  of  the  inlet, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Kakny,  in  latitude  (ioo  ii'2',  TebenkofV  says  the  climate 
of  Cook's  Inlet  is  more  extreme  than  the  rest  of  the  colonies.  The  thernunneter 
in  summer  frequently  rises  to  95°,  (28°  Keaumur,)  and  in  winter  falls  as  low  as  oS'^ 
below  zero,  ( — t(P  lleanmur,)  when  the  inlet  freezes  as  far  south  as  Kati-hetmakski 
Bay.  In  the  spring  the  great  titles  break  u])  the  ice,  which  very  often  lifts  rocks 
of  considerable  size  and  scatters  them  t»ver  the  bay  and  its  shores. 

We  have  iio  regidar  record  of  the  temperature  at  Prince  William  Sound,  one 
hniulred  miles  east  of  Cook's  Inlet.  The  following  extracts  from  Meares's  intro- 
duction to  his  narrative  nuist  be  taken  with  the  knowledge  that  he  wintered  here 
under  very  uufav4)ral)le  circumstances,  in  ti  small  bay,  close  under  the  north  tlank 
of  high  mountains  that  did  not  allow  th(^  rays  of  the  sun  to  reach  him.  lie  had 
at  noon,  in  midwinter,  but  a  faint  and  glinunering  light,  the  meridian  sun  not 
being  higher  than  (P — he  was  in  latitude  (J(P  30' — and  that  obsciu'ed  from  them 
by  hills  reaching  22°  high  to  the  southward;  snow  covered  the  earth  to  a  great 
depth.    He  ran  short  of  good  provisions,  and  lost  most  of  his  crew  by  scurvj 

On  the  last  day  of  October,  1780,  the  thermometer  fell  to  32°,  with  the  mora- 
ings  and  evenings  sharp. 

In  November,  the  thermometer  ranged  from  20°  to  28°,  and  ice  formed  from 
the  vessel  to  the  shore. 

In  December,  the  temi)erature  fell  to  20°,  where  it  continued  most  of  the 
month. 

In  January  and  February  1787,  the  temperature  contiiuied  for  the  greater 
part  of  that  time  at  15°,  although  it  sometimes  fell  to  l-io.  In  the  llrst  half  of 
January  were  heavy  falls  of  snow. 

March  was  cold  as  January  and  February,  with  nuich  snow ;  the  temperature 
continued  for  the  most  part  at  15°  to  10°,  although  it  sometimes  rose  to  17°. 

The  first  part  of  April  wiiS  frosty,  accompanied  Avith  violent  southerly  winds. 

At  the  end  of  the  month  the  thermometer  in  the  sun  rose  to  32° ;  at  night  it 
fell  to  27°. 

To  the  middle  of  May  the  thermometer  in  the  shade  stood  at  40°,  and  at  night 
fell  to  32°,  with  thin  ice,  and  the  nmin  body  of  ice  with  which  liis  vessel  was  sur- 
rounded  began  to  loosen  from  shore. 

Eeflecting  upon  the  high  latitude  of  this  sound,  its  waters  embraced  by  high 
mountains  on  three  aides,  chilling  it  with  the  eternal  snows  and  glaciers  of  the 
Mount  St.  Elias  range,  we  may  be  surprised  .at  the  comparatively  high  tempera- 
ture of  the  winter,  especially  iu  the  location  he  selected,  out  of  the  leach  of 
all  sun  influence  for  a  couple  of  months.    At  this  high  latitude  the  lowest  record 


■M 


26 


AliASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


lie  jiivcs  is  IP  r'alirciilicit,  liiit  the  miirormity  is  rniiiiikiililt'.  iiiiil  fspcciiiliy  as 
(■(iiiliiiniii;;  iiclow  ',)-''-'  lor  siv  inoiitiis. 

TfliciikofV  (I.SIS)  ;;iv('s  ii  (larl<  i>it'liirc  of  tlic  ai)pcaraii('t'  and  cliinat*'  of 
Prince  Wiliiani  Sound,  callinf;-  it  di'solatc,  ;nlooni\,  and  deserted;  snnoiinded  liy 
loeUs  and  |tine  forests;  mountains  covered  witli  eternal  snow,  and  ci'veloped  in 
l»erpetual  fo^,  or  invisilile  with  drizzliiif;  iniu.  Jtain  falls  sonu-tinie.s  for  iiuhoU'. 
nuintli,  and  tlure  an^  not  more  tlniii  sixty  or  ninety  sunny  days  iit  the  year. 
Durint;  llie  months  of  July  and  AuHUst,  the  thernunucter  showed  5!P  on  fair 
days  and  •10^'  ou  rainy  days.  The  frost  in  wilder  is  vory  sovere,  hut  of  short 
duration,  for  the  south  winds  chan{;e  it  suddenly  to  thaw  and  rain. 

CLIMATK  or   IvADIAK. 

Wo  were  uiialde  to  obtain  any  niete(;rolo;,'ieal  record  at  St.  Paul,  and  our 
knowledjic  of  it  is  extremely  limited.  In  jicneral  terms  we  know  that  it  is  warmer 
in  suninu-r  than  at  Sitka,  and  colder  in  winter;  and  this  is  corroliorated  l>y  thu 
fact  that  ice  obtaiiu'd  at  Sitka  for  the  Sau  I'raucisco  nuirket  has  been  found  untit 
for  eomnu'rco  on  account  of  beiu};'  full  of  air-holes,  «S:e.,  by  which  it  ra|>idly  melted, 
and  reeour.sc  was  had  to  the  ice  Ibnued  by  the  colder  winters  of  Kadiak.  The 
yearly  supjily  t(t  San  Francisco  for  the  whole  interior  and  seaboard  eonsum])tioii 
is  about  three  thousand  two  hundred  tons,  of  which  nearly  one-half  is  lost  by 
melting';  and  it  is  a  curious  fact  that  the  demand  is  no  greater  now  thau  it  was 
fourteen  years  ago. 

The  following  information  coneennng  tlie  ice  crop  was  obtained  from  tlio 
eom]>any  at  San  Francisco  and  St.  Paul:  The  ice  lake  is  about  five  hundred  yards 
tVoni  the  shore  and  nearly  surroundeil  by  wotxl,  so  that  the  spray  from  the  ocean 
beach  does  not  vvmh  it.  It  is  partly  artilicial,  having  been  increased  in  area  and 
depth  by  Ibe  1'or\ui;(ion  of  a  dam  sixteen  feet  high,  which  gives  the  lake  an  extent 
of  two  tliouw.id  lWo  hundred  feet  by  seven  hundred,  and  a  dei)th  of  twenty-two 
feet.  The  suiptus  water  drives  an  overshot  wheel  giving  nnition  to  a  saw-mill. 
The  ice  croj)  conies  to  maturity  by  December;  the  cutting  commencing  when  there 
is  twelve  inches  thick  of  clear,  solid  ice,  and  ending  in  February,  when  it  has 
generally  increased  to  eighteen  inches.  The  cold  is  uniform,  and  the  ice  lias  not 
been  known  to  nndce  more  than  one  and  a  half  inch  per  night,  although  the  ther- 
mometer has  be(!n  once  recorded  as  low  as  IfSo  below  zero  during  the  last  the  or  .six 
years.  During  these  unusual  cold  epochs  the  air  is  quitt!  calm  and  labor  practica- 
ble. The  average  fall  of  snow  is  three  feet  and  lasts  nntU  June,  when  it  di.sap- 
pears  very  (juickly,  and  grass  springs  fiu-ward  with  remarkable  rapidity. 

In  the  latter  ])art  of  August  we  found  grass  growing  from  the  sphaguuni  and 
having  an  average  height  of  not  less  than  two  feet,  while  in  many  places  it  was 
fully  three  feet.  It  is  usually  cut  about  the  first  of  August,  and  cuics  veil  and 
rapidly  with  a  few  warm  days.  Some  stacks  wo  examined  were  in  as  flue  condi- 
tion and  as  sweet  as  any  we  have  seen  on  the  Atlantic  .slope.  AVestern  nn>n  with 
us  (torroborate  our  botanist  in  saying  that  this  is  really  a  tine  grazing  country,  and 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


27 


caiMiMc  of  sustiiiiiiiifi;  a  very  Iutko  number  of  cnttl*'.  Tlio  coiMlition  of  ilic  cnttU) 
we  siiw  iiltoiit  St.  Pnul,  mid  on  Spruce  Islinul,  and  at  tlie  frecduu-n'M  wttlt'iMcnt, 
was  lint',  and  tlu^  llavor  of  tlic  l)i'of  we  olitaint'd  was  good. 

TrlicnkolV  siiys  tliat  tln'  IJnssianAiiicrican  ('onii)any  had  a  randio  in  one  of 
the  bays  on  tlic  soul!;  shore  ol'  Cliiniak  l>ay,  where  two  hunched  lu'ad  of  ealtle 
glazed;  nnd  also  at  another  station  tliey  ha«l  ii  number  of  eatth*  f,na/inf;. 

Lisianslvy  mentions  Itarley  having'  l)een  howh  in  l.S(»4,  and  tliat  it  sncceech'd  in 
nniii.;  phiees;  hut  'Mlie  darlv  and  rainy  weather  is  unfavorai)le  to  aKrieulture,  wliich 
retiuiresfrrea!  lalxirand  patience — traits  not  heloufjin;;  to  tiie  natives.''  Cal»liaj,'i's, 
carrots,  turnips,  and  j iota toe.s  are  successfully  raised,  and  liie  natives  have  many 
well-fenced  gardens  on  the  low  •around  abrea.st  of  Cliagavka  Cove.  Potatoes  were 
in  bloom  when  we  left,  August  .'!1. 

"The  clearness  of  the  weatlier  dejiends  entirely  upon  the  direction  of  the 
winds.  Fine  weather  accomiianies  winds  from  the  soutii,  round  by  the  west,  to 
north;  with  easting  in  them,  fogs  and  rain  prevail.  JJuring  the  montii  of  Deccni- 
per,  though  the  winds  blew  from  the  north,  the  weather  was  tolerably  mild.  The 
thermometer  was  not  lower  than  i\>>°  till  the  24tli,  when  it  .sunk  to  'JiP.  The 
ground  was  then  c(»vered  with  snow  and  remained  so  several  months.  The 
winter,  however,  was  not  supposed  to  set  in  till  the  beginning  of  .laiuiary.  Dining 
its  continuaiu'c,  a  few  days  of  February  excepted,  th»!  air  was  dry  and  cleai', 
witli  fiesh  winds  fnuu  the  points  between  west  and  southwest.  The  .severest 
frost  was  on  the  liL'd  of  .lanuary,  when  the  thermometer  fell  to  zero.  The 
last  days  of  February  and  tiie  beginning  of  ]\larch  were  also  so  cold  that  the 
mercury  stood  between  l.'P  and  14^.  During  this  period  I  purposely  measiiied 
the  thickness  of  i('e  in  the  ponds  near  the  settlement,  and  found  it  to  be  eighteen 
inches.  On  the  !tth  of  .^larch  commenced  the  return  of  sjuing.  (Lisiansky, 
page  171.)   The  winter  w(>  |>assed  here  was  an  exceptionally  dry  one."    (Page  1!H>.) 

Q'he  navigators  of  the  Uussian-American  Company  assure  us  that  the  nn)st 
violent  winds  are  those  c<uning  in  great  gust.s  from  the  mountains  behind  the* 
town,  sometimes  even  unrooting  the  houses  and  driving  the  ves.sels  froni  their 
moorings.  The  old  archives  of  the  company  doubtless  contain  much  valuable 
information  about  the  clinmte  and  iiroductions  of  this  place,  as  St.  Paul  was 
originally  theii'  princijial  establislunent,  UTid  only  yielded  to  Sitka  on  account 
of  the  warlike  character  of  the  Koloshians,  aiul  the  greater  abundance  of  s<'a 
otter  about  the  Alexander  Archi|H'lago. 

During  our  stay  at  Kadiak,  from  August  2r>th  to  the  .^Ist,  the  mean  temper- 
ature of  the  air  was  4(P..")  and  of  the  water  450..S. 

CLIJIATK  OF  TIIE  ALEUTIAN  IST^ANDS. 


Our  .stay  at  Unala.ska  was  too  limited  to  enable  us  to  Judge  of  the  clinnito 
excei»t  in  tlic  inlluence  it  has  ujion  the  botany  of  the  islands. 

There  are  no  trees  of  any  si/.e  wiiatever  ui)on  any  of  the  Aleutian  Islands. 
A  few  Sitka  spruce  brought  to  Unalaska  Hay,  and  planted  upon  an  island  in 


28 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


the  western  roadsteatl,  or  Captain's  Harbor,  -^ome  thirty  years  since,  are  said 
not  to  have  grown  as  many  inches  in  that  time;  but  it  appears  to  mc  quit© 
probable  tluit  if  trees  were  phiccd  in  good  situations  at  lirst,  and  properly 
attended  to,  they  would  succeed.  This  single  and  unsuccessful  attempt  well 
exemplifies  the  retarding  ettect  Avliich  the  single  pud  sole  aim  of  fur  trading 
has  had  upon  the  development  of  the  colony.  Bishop  Veniaminoff  says  that 
great  numbers  of  d sad  willows  arc  found  among  the  mountains  of  Uualaskr!. 

Not  a  stick  of  timber  can  be  procured  nearer  than  Kadiak,  and  every  bit  of 
drift-wood  is  eagerly  S(  ized  upon  for  fuel,  for  which  the  inhabitants  are  dependent 
upon  the  lu'avy  growth  of  sphagnnm  covering  mountain  arul  valley,  and  on  the 
blubber  of  the  seals  and  sea-lions.  Grasses  giow  luxuriantly,  and  when  cut  and 
cured  are  used  to  feed  the  small  Siberian  breed  of  cattle  through  the  winter. 

The  barometer  observations  of  the  United  States  Coast  Survey  party  made 
during  the  ascent  of  the  active  volcano  of  Makushin,  September  7  to  11,  place 
the  luie  of  perpetual  snow  on  that  moniitsiin  at  three  thousand  on 3  hundred  sind 
ten  fer  r,  while  the  lowest  limit  of  the  small  glacier  was  one  thousand  feet  lowe>  ; 
and  Vv^getation  ceased  at  two  thousand  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  sea, 
ev^ei/t  the  low  foi-m  of  vegetation  known  as  "red  snow." 

On  the  13th  of  September,  when  we  passed  through  the  Unalga  Strait  to  the 
I'acific,  the  whole  outline  of  mountain  summits  to  the  east  and  west  was  sharply 
and  cleaily  defined  against  a  beautifully  clear  sky,  and  snow  had  uot  yet  appeared 
upon  them. 

But  the  published  meteorological  observations  of  the  Greek  Bishop  Veuiami- 
noff,  made  r.t  Iliouliouk,  between  the  5ears  1825  and  1S.'U,  att'ord  much  useful  ma- 
terial I'rom  which  to  draw  fair  couclusi'^ns  of  the  climate.  We  have  rearranged  his 
abstn.cts  and  placed  ulie  results  in  the  Appendix,  but  present  some  of  the  general- 
izations in  this  place.  The  dates  an"  reckoiu'd  according  to  "old  style."  The  mean 
temperature  of  the  j  tar,  from  nine  years'  observations,  is  38"^.03,  or  4o.9  oclow 
that  of  Sitka. 


Mouths. 


March 

Ainil 

May 

Juno 

July 

Aiinust ... 

Seiitcmhcr 

OltolHT... 

Novcinber. 

lliTi'inlici'. 
Jamiiiry  .. 
Fi'bruiu'y  . 


Fiihreulieit. 


29°. 
XP. 
41^. 

4C°. 
50°. 
51°. 

43°. 

:ic° 

32° 

29°. 
29'\ 
!U°. 


Season. 


Spring. 
34°.9 

Suninior. 
49°.  6 

Autumn. 
:i7°.  (i 

Winter. 
:i(l°.  1 


ALASICA  COAST  PILOT. 


29 


The  mean  range  ilnring  the  day,  from  the  morning  to  the  afternoon  obsorva- 
titn,  is  only  5°.0.  The  highest  teniperatni-e  recorded  is  77°  npon  two  oi-eai-iionH, 
ail  I  the  lowest  Oo.()  below  zero;  bnt  only  upon  nine  occasfons  is  it  reeorded  less 
than  ten  degrees  above  zero. 

Eschsciholtz  found  the  temperature  of  the  earth  in  the  sources  of  tlic  low  val- 
leys 38°  and  39°  Fahrenheit  in  the  beginning  of  July  1817. 

The  mean  height  of  the  barometer  for  nine  jears  is  29.74  inches;  the  highest 
reading  during  that  period  being  30.71  inches,  and  lowest  L'8.37  inclies.  The  bar- 
ometer reaches  its  highest  monthly  mean,  29.91  inches,  in  July,  wlien  winds  from 
the  southeast  to  southwest  prevail;  audits  lowest,  29.(j0  inches,  in  November,  when 
westerly  winds  prevail.  The  fluctuations  of  the  barometer  are  >'ery  great  through- 
ort  the  year,  averaging  1.78  inches  in  each  month;  the  greatest  range  being  2.31 
in  December,  and  the  least  1.07  in  July. 

The  clearest  months,  without  (douds,  are  December,  January,  and  Febnmry, 
when  the  north  and  northwest  wiuds  prevail. 

August,  September,  and  October  are  the  months  in  which  the  most  rain  falls, 
during  which  time  winds  from  iliC  south  to  west  prevail.  The  rainfall  is  not 
r^con^'Ml,  but  he  says  thut  rain  falls  during  some  parts  of  the  twenty-four  hours 
upon  one  hundred  and  fifty  days  of  each  year,  smd  (Estimates  the  total  fall  at  only 
twenty-seven  inches,  which  must  be  much  inulerestimated. 

Snow  falls  some  time  in  every  month  except  June,  Jidy,  and  August,  and  is 
recorded  in  every  month  except  July. 

Thuuder-stonns  are  very  rare,  only  seventeen  being  recorded  in  seven  years, 
a  .d  none  in  winter. 

The  clearest  month  is  January,  and  at  any  season  clear  weather  accompanies 
oi  follows  north  winds.    Very  strong  windp,  prevail  from  October  to  March. 

At  Unalaska  the  aurora  borealis  is  ritrely  seen,  it  being  recorded  but  once 
during  the  above  period  of  observation,  when  it  appeared  like  the  dawn  of  day  on 
the  iCth  of  February  1831,  (old  style.)  On  the  horizon  it  was  dark,  but  higher  ui) 
the  sky  was  lighter. 

Earthquakes  are  comparatively  frequent,  no  less  than  thir?y-two  being 
recorded  in  seven  years. 

VEGETABLE  PUODX'CTIONS. 

At  Sitka  fruit  trees  were  introduced  in  the  governor's  garden,  and  special 
attention  devoted  i;o  their  culture,  but  they  have  not  borne  fruit,  except  a  few 
small  specimens  that  never  matured.  IJerries  abound  throughout  the  comitry  in 
great  abundance  and  of  huge  size,  but  generally  lack  flavor,  on  account  of  the 
absence  of  direct  sunlight.  3Iost  of  the  berries  were  ri])e  when  we  left  for  Kadiak, 
August  22,  and  potatoes  were  in  full  blooiii.  The  potatoes  yield  avqII,  but  are  of 
small  8  .e  and  watery.  Turnips,  l."e(s,  carrots,  i)arsnips,  and  other  root  croits, 
with  cabbages  and  tiie  like,  are  cultivaf<'d  in  a  few  gardens.  riisi!insky  found  wihl 
lieas  growing  on  the  siiore  south  of  iVIouut  ijdgecumbe.    <  "rani>e.  ries  grow  wild,  are 


t^m 


ao 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


quite  siiiiiU  iiiifl  wcll-flavori'd,  l)ut  not  in  iibuiuliinco  abont  Sitka;  tlioy  might  be 
easily  cnltivatnl  here,  and  would  form  a  valuablo  addition  to  the  Calilbi'iiiii 
market,  wliieli  now  n'ceives  it.s  .sni>i)lie«  from  the  northern  coast.  Berries  of  all 
kinds  grow  wild  and  in  abumhuiee.  None  of  the  cereals  are  eultivated,  aud  it  is 
very  doubtful  if  they  would  succeed.  In  fact,  except  a  few  very  small  n;ardens 
beloufiinji'  to  private  individuals,  nothing  is  eultivated,  the  popidation  trusting 
mainly  for  their  Ibod  to  the  annual  siii)plies  bnnight  from  St.  Petersburg  and  Sua 
Francisco  by  the  company's  vessels.  There  is  no  space  cleared  about  Sitka  for  the 
raising  of  grass,  ami  there  are  i'vw  horses  and  cattle  doraanding  it;  but  there 
ai>i»ears  no  diihculty  in  raising  as  large  crops  of  grr^^s  ,•  -ir  Ka<liak,  if  the  land 
were  cleared  of  wood  and  tin;  increase  of  cattle  dei/r    • 

On  tlie  .suuthern  boiuulary,  at  Fort  Simpson,  we  foiuid  as  line  herdsgrass  as 
any  country  can  boast.  It  had  escaped  ami  was  growing  wild  in  thick-lodged 
masses,  without  care  or  cultiue;  and  at  Sitka  the  common  white  clover  aud  the 
]\Iedick  or  burr  clover,  recently  introduced  by  California  trade.  They  seem  to 
nourish  and  bloom  well;  hence  the  use  of  these  and  similar  grasses  as  green  fod 
der  api)ears  ([uite  practicable;  and  probably  there  is  quite  sullicient  fair  weather 
for  curing  hay. 

The  ]ut'vailing  forest  tree  is  the  Sitka  spruce,  growing  to  great  size,  covering 
every  foot  of  ground,  and  clind)ing  the  steepest  nu)untain  sides  to  the  height  of 
two  thousand  or  two  thousand  live  hundred  feet  above  tlie  sea.  AVe  measured 
felled  trees  of  this  s])rnce  tliat  were  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet  Ion.";  ."ud  four 
feet  thick  at  the  butt,  while  adjacent  standing  trees  measured  ov<  -  i:  f"et  in 
diameter,  and  were  braneldess  for  over  fifty  feet.  Uendock,  aid"  ••ii>i  illows 
are  found,  but  (lu;  most  valuable  wood  of  the  country  is  tlie  yc'i'i  v  -  <t  "  ,  ■itli  a 
line,  even  texture,  fragrant  snu'll,  good  size,  and  greater  strengtu  lii.'.'  •''  spvnee. 
We  llrst  called  jmblic;  attention  to  the  I'ort  Orford  white  cedar,  in  18.")l.  i.  tl  .lilo 
a«lnntting  its  many  good  (jualities,  have  no  hesitation  in  saying  that  1-  J  yellow 
cedar  of  Alaska  is  a  niucli  superior  wood.  It  is  readily  workeii  .•kes  a  smooth 
surface,  and  is  remarkably  durable.  It  will  make  a  valuable  addititm  to  ''le 
cabinet  woods  of  <lic  Calit'nniia  market,  is  sui)eri(U'  as  a  ship  tind)er  to  any  on  ■  tiv. 
c(tas|,  anil,  from  our  slnut  exannnation,  we  are  satisfied  that  it  may  be  obtained  o 
anqde  si/c  lor  IVauies  and  kne's  of  ordinary-sized  vessels.  At  Skalitch  nnc'iora/: 
one  was  measured  eighteen  feet  in  eireumferenee,  and  estimated  o\  ;'  one  hundrc<l 
and  twenty  live  feet  in  heiglit.  We  obtaiiu'd  and  forwarded  jij'.'.;  ■  '  '"  >  kedson 
and  frame  of  one  of  the  Itussian  Anu'riean  Company's  snail  ves.v  .  v.'nich  was 
constructed  of  tills  wood  over  tliiity  two  years  ago  and  had  been  lying  a  wreck 
uptui  tlie  beach  for  several  years,  it  exhiliit"  'ot  the  least  sign  of  decay  or  teredo 
attacks;  the  wood  around  .'lic  cop;i(  •  ,iiii!  iroi'  !  -'fy.  is  nearly  as  "'ell  preserved  as 
on  tlie  (l,i\  the.v  were  driven. 

Tlie  liiills  of  all  the  trading  and  tishing  vessels  <m  this  new  coast  nniy  be  c(>n- 
stnicicd  (if  this  durable  wood  npim  am  of  t!ir  innnnierable  bays  of  the  Alexander 
ArclnjK'lago.     We  liji\  e  seasoned  a  small  piece  of  this  wood  for  one  year  in  a  dry, 


w 
U 


ALASKA  COAST  riLOT. 


31 


wiU'in  room,  and  it  has  a.  'weight  indiciitiiig  twonty-six  pounds  to  the  cubic  foot. 
Under  oidiuirry  seasoning  the  welglit  would  l)e  over  thirty  iiounds. 

The  origiiud  constructors  of  Fort  Simpson  hiid  the  ground  tiujhers  »»r  pine, 
thiidcing  it  tlui  best.  A  piece  of  tliis  cedar  having  been  accith'utally  used,  on 
recently  replacing  the  rotten  tind)ers,  it  was  found  to  be  tlu-  only  sound  log  left 
after  twenty-one  years'  trial.  About  Fort  Simpson  it  is  scarce,  although  '.ve  saw  a 
sleeper  thirty  feet  long,  twenty-eight  inches  at  the  butt,  eighteen  at  the  extremity, 
and  eight  inches  thick,  besides  luisvrought  knees,  &c.,  used  ftn*  boat-building. 
The  bark  can  be  stripped  oft"  in  great  sheets,  and  is  used  by  the  Indians  lor 
mats,  covers  to  their  eayoes,  and  to  make  and  cover  temporary  habitations.  In 
this  way  great  quantities  are  destroyed. 

AVhile  the  vast  ftuests  of  wood  exist  upon  the  waters  of  Puget  Sound,  Ad- 
miralty Inlet,  and  the  Strait  of  Fuca,  it  nniy  be  eomnu'rt^ially  nnprolltable  to  cut 
and  ship  even  this  yellow  cedar  to  the  California  nuirket,  unless  natixe  labor  can 
be  obtained  at  low  rates  to  get  it  out;  yet,  ev«'n  if  unavailable  at  the  present  tinui, 
it  affords  an  inexhaustible  resource  in  futui'e,  and  Avill  jirovc  of  the  greatest 
importance  as  the  supplies  decrease  'o  the  southward. 

This  timber  is  found  from  the  southern  boundary  of  Alaska  to  the  farthest 
point  northward  we  examined  in  Chatham  Strait. 

The  spruce,  yellow  cedar,  hendock,  &c.,  cover  the  coast  as  far  north  as  Sterya 
Bay,  whence  westward  to  Prince  Willianr  Sound  very  little  is  known,  all  naviga- 
tors i-^iKH'ting  a  very  forbidding  low  coast,  covered  in  part  with  wood,  but  closely 
backed  by  the  great  St.  Eliasj  range,  Avith  its  summits  aveiaging  from  eight  thou- 
sand to  nine  thovisaiul  feet,  and  every  gorge  tilled  Avith  snow  (ir  glaciers,  The 
Itussian  Company  has  no  factory  along  this  stretch  of  coast,  and  their  explorers 
report  numerous  small  streams  running  through  it  to  the  ocean. 

On  Prince  William  Sound,  notwithstanding  the  severity  of  the  w  inters,  vege- 
tation is  reported  to  s])rii!g  uj)  with  great  laisidity,  ami  beriies  of  ever,-  variety 
and  in  great  abundance  lourish  Avhere  the  low  shores  are  not  densely  covered 
Avith  spruce,  aMer,  and  birch. 

The  same  remai".;.-  a])ply  to  Cook's  Inlet,  with  its  warmer  summer  and  nu)re 
vigorous  vegetation.     Its  shores  are  covered  with  tind)er. 

Similar  luoducts  contiuae  to  Alaska  Peninsula  and  the  northern  jMirt  of  the 
islaiul  of  Kadiak,  although  on  this  island  wo  found  the  trees  snuUler  and  shorter, 
and  growing  only  in  the  valleys  or  low  grouiuls,  and  in  comparatively  small  areas 
along  the  northern  and  eastern  coast  lilu^s.  We  saw  none  covering  the  nnmntain 
sides.     The  only  tree  worthy  the  nanu*  of  timber  is  the  Sitka  s])ruce. 

This  tree  resend)les  in  form  and  foliage  our  silver  lirs.  Tim  largest  we  saw 
were  three  feet  in  diameter,  and  ninety  to  one  hundred  feet  high.  The  average 
size  is  seldom  two  f.-et;  they  are  relatively  of  low  growth  and  rapid  taper,  ai)t  to 
be  too  knotty,  ai!.i  in  (ii?<'n  exposiu'es  branch  to  their  bases.  In  the  governiu's 
yard  wore  so'.ie  nnists  and  spars  over  a  hundred  feet  in  length,  scarcely  tapering 
two  inches  in  thirty  or  forty  fet^;  yet  these  were  from  Kadiak  Island,  so  that  gootl 


im 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


timber  of  this  spruce  may  be  obtained,  although  we  had  no  opportunity  of  seeing 
noteworthy  specimens  in  a  j^rowiiij;'  state.  Many  masts  and  spars  are  obtained  on 
Spruce  Jshiud,  ten  to  lil'teeu  miles  distant,  from  whence  t'aey  arc  floated  in  rafts. 

The  mountains  are  covered  with  herba}j;e  to  their  summits;  grass  grows  two 
and  three  feet  higli  over  the  gently  sloping  hill-sides;  is  cut  about  the  first  of 
August,  sta(;kcd  in  the  open  air,  and  is  well  cured  and  sweet. 

A-t  St.  Paul  and  upon  the  lands  about  the  settlements  ou  Spruce  Island  we 
'■'   iiated  the  number  of  cattle  at  two  humlred. 

The  vegetable  productions  of  Unalaska  Avere  found  similar  to  those  of  Sitka 
au,.  Kadiak;  but  no  trees  exist  west  of  the  middle  of  Kadiak  and  the  peninsula 
al)reast  of  it.  Turnips  and  ])o(atoes  are  cultivated  by  a  few  of  the  Aleutians, 
after  removing  tlie  covering  of  sphagnum  from  the  soil;  and  were  there  any  proper 
and  cultivated  incentive  to  industry  and  improvement,  no  one  can  doubt  the  capa- 
bility of  the  soil  for  affording  fair  returns.  Bishop  Veniaminoff  says  that  the 
jtotato  yields  from  four  to  seven  fold  and  attains  "great  size,"  when  three  to  ten 
make  a  pound  weight!  He  is  our  authority  for  saying  that  among  the  mountains 
of  Unalaska  are  found  great  numbers  of  dead  willows. 

At  Kadiak  and  Unalaska  we  fouiul  the  Elymus  growing  to  the  height  of  Ave 
feet,  with  a  strong,  heavy  stalk  and  a  head  five  inches  long:  in  August  it  was 
nearly  ripe  and  seeds  were  brought  east.  The  grains  were  numerous  as  in  a  head 
of  wheat,  and  fully  as  larg(>  as  those  of  our  best  oats.  This  is  the  "wild  wheat" 
of  the  eai:;  English  fur  traders. 

The  botanist  of  the  expedition  in  his  report  remarks: 

"Where  grain  Uke  grasses  grow,  and  mature  well,  it  seems  fair  to  infer  that 
oats  and  barley  would  thrive,  provided  they  wora  fdll-sown,  like  the  native  grasses, 
which  are  often  in  such  haste  to  take  root  that  they  even  sprout  in  the  ear  before 
reaching  the  soil.  This  is  abundantly  verified  by  reference  to  our  collection. 
Several  of  these  grasses  had  already  matured  and  cast  their  seed  before  we 
arrived,  showing  sullicient  length  of  season." 

\\\'  found  growing  in  Unalaska  Uay,  in  great  cpiantities,  in  certain  localities, 
the  pea  called  by  botanists  jrixum  maritiiium,  and  from  its  luxuriance  and  size 
have  little  doubt  but  that  it  could  be  readily  cultivated.  It  was  found  in  all  the 
stages  from  flowering  to  the  ripe  fruit  on  the  7th  of  September.  Seed  was  pro- 
cured for  growing  on  the  Atlantic,  coast,  but  it  did  not  germinate.  Lisianaky 
found  it  on  the  shores  east  of  Cape  Edgeeumbe.  Throughout  the  whole  country 
the  fields  arc  brilliant  with  many  colored  flowers,  gratifying  the  eye,  and  satisfy- 
ing the  explorer  that  the  country  has  a  moderate  climate. 

The  na\igators  of  the  l{ussian-Ameiican  Company  inform  us  that  the  produc- 
tions of  all  the  islands  to  the  westward  are  similar  to  those  of  Unalaska.  Teben 
kotf  says  that  the  potato  is  cultivated  by  the  inhabitants  in  every  village  of  the 
country. 

We  have  no  available  sources  of  information  concerning  the  vegetation  north- 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


33 


ward  of  the  peniusula  of  Alaska  from  Bristol  Bay,  in  58°,  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Kwichpak,  in  latitude  63°. 

Fiu-ther  to  the  northwai'd,  we  have  the  evidence  of  Seeman,  in  his  "  Botany 
of  the  Voyage  of  H.  M.  S.  Herald,  ISiS-'ul,"  to  show  that  the  coast  even  in  this 
high  latitude  has  a  vegetation  due  to  a  much  lower  latitude.  He  says :  "  the  di- 
mple is  considerahly  milder  than  that  of  the  eastern  shores  of  America  in  the 
same  latitude.  The  proofs  we  need  not  deduce  from  artificial  tables ;  nature  her- 
self has  written  them  on  the  face  of  the  country.  The  abundance  of  animal  life, 
the  occiu'reuce  of  many  southern  plants,  and  above  all,  the  limit  of  the  woods,  if 
compared  with  the  opposite  shores,  furnish  iudispiitable  evidence.  On  the  east- 
ern side  of  America  no  forests  are  found  above  the  mouth  of  the  river  Kgg,  above 
the  sixtieth  degree  of  latitude ;  on  the  western  they  exteiul  as  far  as  latitude  (5(>o 
44',  or  nearly  seven  degi'ees  further  towards  the  pole."  "The  summer  sets  in  most 
rapidly,  and  the  landscape  is  quickly  overspread  with  a  lively  green ;  flocks  of 
geese  and  ducks  arrive  from  the  south ;  the  plover,  the  snipe,  and  many  other 
b>ds  enliven  the  air  with  their  notes."  "The  sun  is  now  always  above  the  hori- 
zon, and  the  rays  falling  continuallj^  upon  the  surface  of  the  earth  prevent  the 
temperature  from  cooling  down  too  much ;  and  thus,  notwithstanding  the  low  alti- 
tude of  the  sun,  a  degree  of  warmth  is  produced  which,  under  other  circumstances 
would  not  be  possible,  the  the  uometcr  rising  as  high  as  01°  Fahrenheit.  With 
the  sun  shining  throughout  the  twenty-four  hours  the  growth  of  plants  is  rapid  in 
the  extreme.  The  snow  has  hardly  disappeared  before  a  m  is  of  herbage  has 
sprung  up,  and  the  sjjots  whi(;h  a  few  days  before  presented  nothing  save  a  white 
sheet,  are  teeming  with  an  active  vegetation,  producing  leaves,  flowers,  and  fruit 
in  rapid  succession." 

The  whole  country,  from  Norton  Sound  to  Point  Barrow,  is  a  vast  moorland, 
whose  level  is  only  interrupted  by  promontories  and  isolated  mountains.  The 
rain  and  snow-water,  prevented  by  the  frozen  condition  of  the  soil  from  percola- 
ting through  it,  form  numerous  lagoons,  or,  when  the  formation  of  the  ground 
opposes  this,  bogs,  the  general  aspect  and  vegetation  of  which  do  not  nmterially 
dift'er  from  those  of  northern  Europe,  being  covered  with  a  dense  mass  of  lichens, 
mosses  and  other  uliginous  forms.  Places  are  covered  with  plants  and  sonu^timt^s 
diflicult  to  pass.  "  Wherever  drainage  exists,  either  on  the  shores  of  the  sea,  the 
banks  of  the  rivers,  or  the  slopes  of  the  hills,  the  ground  is  free  from  peat.  Such 
localities  are  generally  clad  with  a  luxuriant  herbage,  and  produce  the  rarest  aa 
well  as  the  most  beautiful  plants." 

"  The  aspect  of  some  spots  is  very  gay.  Many  flowers  are  large,  their  colors 
bright,  and  though  white  and  yellow  predominate,  plants  displaying  other  tints 
are  not  uncommon.  Cape  Lisburne,  (in  hititude  08°  52',)  one  of  the  most  produc- 
tive localities,  looks  like  a  garden." 

"  Inland  from  Norton  Sound,  about  ten  miles,  groves  of  white  sj)ruc('  trees 
and  salijc  speciosa  are  fragrant;  northward  they  become  less  abundant,  till  in  latir 
tude  00°  4',  on  the  banks  of  the  Noatak,  the  piims  alba  disappears." 
5 


34 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


To  prevent  the  ravagea  of  scurvy,  the  Esquimaux  "collect  for  their  winter 
stock,  rasi)berries,  whortleberries  and  cranberries,  which  are  placed  in  boxes  and 
jtrcserved  by  being  frozen  into  such  a  hard  mass  that  in  order  to  divide  it 
recourse  must  be  had  to  the  axe." 

"  In  the  sub-arctic  regions  there  are  plants  which  the  eye  is  accustomed  to 
meet  in  the  plains  of  more  temperate  clinuites.  *  *  •  *  besides  annuals  and 
biennials,  and  shrubs  and  trees."  "A  peculiar  feature  of  the  vegetation  is  its 
harmless  character.  The  poisonous  plants  are  few  in  number,  and  their  qualities 
by  no  means  virulent." 

It  i.s  a  curious  fact  that  throughout  our  exploration  no  reptile,  toad,  lizard  or 
similar  aninml  was  seen,  and  Seeman  states  the  same  in  regard  to  the  arctic  and 
sub-arctic  regions. 

Captain  Thomas  informs  us  that  this  season  (18C7)  in  the  Arctic  has  been 
remarkably  open,  and  that  he  reached  the  latitude  of  72°  55'.  From  the  position 
of  Plover  Island,  north  of  71°,  he  skirted  the  low  coast  to  the  north-northwest 
and  to  the  west-southwest,  iind  saw  it  stretching  far  v.estward  to  include  the 
"extensive  high  peaks"  of  the  maps.  So  this  Plover  Idand  is  only  a  hill  forming 
the  eastern  termination  of  a  very  extensive  land,  which  was  covered  with  a  very 
luxuriant  coat  of  green  in  August  and  September. 

Here  it  may  not  be  out  of  place  to  state  that  Captain  Long,  of  the 
American  whaler  Nile,  in  August  of  the  same  year,  skirted  the  south  shore  of 
the  "extensive  high  peaks"  from  the  above  low  ground,  which  he  did  not  see,  in 
179°  to  181i'5.  He  found  a  volcano  thereon,  having  an  elevation  of  two  thousand 
four  hundred  and  eighty  feet.    This  is  now  denominated  "Wrangell  Laud." 

MINERALS. 

Of  these  little  is  known,  and  Prince  Maksutoif,  late  governor  of  the  Russian 
colonies,  acknowledged  that  the  company  had  been  so  persistently  engaged  in 
procuring  furs  and  studying  the  best  methods  of  keeping  up  the  supply,  that  no 
thorougli  mineralogical  exploration  had  been  nuule,  although  a  large  cabinet 
of  mineraU)gical  specimens  fi)r  comparison  had  been  furnished  by  the  com- 
])any  to  the  chief  .-stabllshment  at  Sitka.  Under  his  direction  the  very  few  speci- 
mens of  Alaska  minerals  in  possession  of  the  servants  of  the  company  were 
transU-rred  to  the  coast  survey  and  referred  to  the  geologist. 

The  great  desideratum  of  the  Pacifu;  coast  is  coal,  and  we  had  been  led  to 
suppose  that  some  of  the  reported  deposits  in  Alaska  were  really  coal,  but  the 
specinu'us  fror.i  the  island  of  Unga,  given  to  us  by  the  governor,  are  nothing 
nu)re  than  lignite,  thickly  marlced  with  iron  pyrites.  Moreover,  at  the  worked 
ontev.tp  in  Coal  Harbor  it  exists  in  veins  of  rarely  more  than  a  foot  in  thickness. 
This  coal  has  been  faithfully  tried  on  the  Pussiau  steamers,  and  after  very  many 
experiments  has  been  abandoned  and  recourse  had  to  the  Nauaimo  coals  from 
Vancouver  Island.  The  navigators  and  engineers  of  the  Russian  steamers  report 
that  it  is  very  light,  burns  with  great  rapidity,  and  leaves  very  much  ash  and 


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ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


35 


clinker.  The  same  general  remarks  perhaps  apply  to  the  coal  ohtaine.i  from 
English  Harbor,  at  the  entrance  to  Cook's  Inlet,  and  lirat  fonnd  and  reported  by 
Tortlock.  Unt  at  the  north >,  est  point  of  the  entrance  to  Tehugatcliik  Bay, 
under  the  anchor  point  of  old  navigators,  there  is  an  tmworked  vein  of  coal  of 
seven  feet  in  thiclcness,  and  this  or  similar  veins  crop  ont  upon  the  shore  of  Cook's 
Inlet  for  twenty  miles  to  the  northward  towards  Anchor  Point.  Tliis  coal  has  not 
been  opened  on  account  of  engineering  difticulties ;  bnt  a  special  survey  of  T(^hu- 
gatchik  IJay  was  nnide  to  exhibit  its  location.  Tliis  has  been  forwarded  to  t!io 
Coast  Survey  office. 

Wrangell  says  there  is  coal  along  the  east  shore  of  Cook's  Inlet,  southward 
from  Cape  Kassiloft".  Wosuesscnsky  gives  details  of  this  formation  with  a  profile 
of  the  three  layers  as  they  are  seen  cropping  out  on  the  bluff  shores.  A  little 
north  of  Cape  Staritscldcoff  (Stuk-talj-chin)  the  coal  first  exhibits  itself  in  two 
parallel  layers,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  paces  from  a  poorly  suj>plied  water- 
fall, which  is  nevertheless  distinguished  by  a  deep  and  wide  basin.  Tlie  veins  are 
al)out  one  and  a  half  feet  thick,  and  lie  from  six  to  ten  fathoms  below  the  toj)  of 
the  bank.  A  little  to  tiio  northward  a  third  is  added ;  the  thickness  of  the  larger 
decreases  from  the  uppermost.  The  three  continue  nearly  to  the  first  point  of 
Cape  Neniitschik,  (or  Sanil,)  with  a  dip  towards  the  north-northeast;  they  disap- 
pear at  the  flat  coast  line  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Chuick-chak,  wliere  a  subterra- 
nean fire  in  the  veins  burned  in  1829  and  1830.  They  reappear  at  the  second 
point  of  Cape  Neniltsehik  with  a  dip  to  the  south  southwest,  and  tlience  marly 
Inn-izontal  to  the  mouth  of  the  first  stream  south  of  the  Kassiloff  Kiver.  Mining 
Engineer  Doroschin  carried  specimens  of  this  coal  to  San  Francisco,  ami  it  was 
reported  upon  favorably.  (Grewingk.)  Two  positions  are  reported  to  furnish  coal. 
One  has  been  worked  and  tried  by  the  Russians,  aiul  condemned.  Tlie  location 
was  near  Hood's  Bay,  on  the  east  side  of  Cliatham  Strait,  abreast  of  the  eastern 
entrance  to  Peril  Strait.  Indians  report  coal  at  Point  Gardner,  in  Chatham 
Strait,  at  the  entrance  to  Frederick  Sound,  in  latitude  .57^  01'.  Examinations  in 
May,  18CS,  show  that  coal  exists  in  Port  Camden,  opening  upon  the  south  shore 
of  Frederick  Sound,  about  eight  miles  east  of  Chatham  Strait,  in  a  position  on 
the  map  abotit  latitude  50°  42',  longitude  133°  50'.  TI>"  coal  crops  out  about 
twenty  feet  above  low  water  mark,  occurs  in  several  veins,  with  intervening 
strata  of  hard  rock,  the  veins  about  six  inches  in  thickness,  at  varying  distances 
of  twenty  to  fifty  feel  of  each  other,  increasing  in  tliickness  inwards,  with  a  dip  of 
.35°  or  10°  to  the  southward,  and  a  direction  nearly  east  and  west:  good  anchor- 
age liere,  from  six  to  nfteen  fatlioms,  over  soft  bottom:  rise  and  fall  of  tides 
about  thirty  feet:   surrounding  country  thickly  wooded. 

The  most  important  discovery  was  made  by  the  Coast  Survey  in  October, 
1807,  in  tlie  valley  at  the  head  of  St.  John's  Bay,  opening  u))on  Newski  Strait, 
about  seventeen  and  one-half  miles  northward  of  Sitka.  Pieces  o(  coal  I.ngcly 
intermixed  with  rock,  to  whicli  their  preservation  was  due,  were  found  for  four  or 
five  miles  fdoug  the  bed  of  the  small  but  rapid  stream.    After  a  second  partial 


'3G 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


exploration  and  obtaining  large  specimens,  it  was  believed  the  ooal  was  anthra- 
cite, bat  a  Hubsecpient  analysis  in  San  Francisco  proved  it  to  be  bituniinons;  but 
ironi  all  the  geologic^al  evidence  the  geologist  reported  that  the  bed  or  beds  from 
which  it  was  broken  will,  if  discovered,  afford  coal  of  vastly  superior  quality  to 
any  luiretofbre  known  to  exist  in  the  territory;  and  the  government  was  advised 
to  direct  an  exlianstive  examination  of  this  locality,  llecent  information  has 
been  received  that  this  coal  vein,  which  has  been  discovered,  is  of  great  thickness, 
is  anthracite,  has  been  burned  on  a  United  States  steamer,  and  reported  upon 
favorably. 

The  general  course  of  the  stream  upon  which  specimens  were  found  is  east 
and  west;  its  rise  for  the  first  four  or  live  miles  is  not  very  rapid.  Along  its 
banks  are  small  areas  of  flat  alluvial  land,  particularly  near  its  mouth.  The 
channel  often  separates  into  two  or  three,  inclosing  small  islands  on  the  level  bot- 
tom land.  The  rocks  in  situ  are  rarely  exposed,  but  at  tvro  points  on  the  stream 
fine  black  shales  and  soft  friable  sandstones,  without  fossils,  however,  were  seen 
trending  approxinmtely  northeast  and  southwest,  and  inclined  at  a  high  angle. 
Pieces  of  coal,  much  intermixed  with  foreign  substances,  i)rincipally  limestone  of 
gi'cater  or  less  size,  were  found  along  the  course  of  the  stream  for  a  distance  of 
four  miles.  Highly  crystalline  limestone,  white,  streaked  with  gray,  was  also 
found  in  the  detritus.  The  dense  growth  of  timber,  thick  masses  of  fallen  and 
decaying  trees,  covered  with  deep  moss,  thickets  of  the  thorny  shrub,  panajo  hor- 
rida,  and  the  general  mountainous  character  of  this  locality,  will  render  its  future 
exploration  exceedingly  difficult. 

Should  petroleum  come  to  be  used  as  a  steam-producing  fuel  on  steamshijjs, 
there  is  a  prospect  of  a  supply  being  obtained  from  the  southeast  shore  of  Alaska 
Peninsula,  at  or  near  Katmay  Bay,  in  latitude  58°  01',  longitude  154°  54',  and 
abreast  of  Kadiak  Island.  The  governor  furnished  the  Coast  Survey  with  a  speci- 
men of  the  crude  oil  obtained  there  two  or  three  years  since.  The  finder  (a 
teaciier  in  the  Kussian-American  Company)  reported  that  he  found  three  streams 
in  the  above  locality  covered  with  petroleum. 

Specimens  of  pure  copper  have  been  gathered  from  various  localities,  but  the 
princiital  source  is  on  the  Atna  or  Copper  River,  about  twenty-live  or  thirty  miles 
above  its  mouth,  where  discovery  an<l  research  are  retarded  on  account  of  the 
reported  hostility  of  the  natives.  We  have  obtained  from  Mr.  Klinkofstrom,  Rus- 
sian consul  at  San  Francisco,  a  specimen  of  this  copper;  and  masses  of  about  a 
cubic  foot  arc  procured  from  the  river.  All  the  peculiarly-figured  copper  plates  of 
the  natives,  twenty-six  Uy  fifteen  inches,  and  so  much  prized  as  heirlooms  by  the 
Indians  as  far  south  as  Vancouver  Island,  are  hammered  out  of  pure  copper 
obtained  from  this  I'iver. 

Copper  combined  with  quartz  is  found  in  several  localities,  and  Bishop  Veni- 
aniiiioff  says  that  near  Makushin  Bay,  between  the  distant  pass  and  the  Tarasi- 
ousky  Bay,  there  exists  a  lake  high  among  .*  ;  mountains,  and  that  metallic 
collier  is  found  along  the  shores  of  the  lake. 


ALASKA  COAST  IMLOT. 


37 


Silver  has  been  reported  in  several  places,  but  when  the  Coast  Survey  sought 
the  localities  the  giiitles  could  not  point  them  out.  At  St.  Paul  we  found  speci- 
mens of  (juartz  with  sulphate  of  iron  and  lead.  Upon  analysis  in  San  Francisco  it 
was  found  to  contain  only  $4  15  per  two  thousand  pounds  and  had  in  it  a  trace 
of  gold. 

Gold  is  found  on  the  Stikino  Itiver,  and  even  with  very  cnide  means  of  work- 
ing the  miners  report  that  they  can  make  from  $2  to  $7  per  day,  but  the  climate 
forbids  them  working  more  than  six  mouths  of  the  year.  Pro])er  methods  of 
working  tl\e  flue  gold  placers  of  this  river  would  yield  twice  the  above  amount. 
Gold  is  reported  to  have  been  found  by  Mining  Engineer  Doroschin  on  the  Kakny 
Kiver,  Avhich  enters  Cook's  inlet  on  its  eastern  shore  about  latitude  (ioo  32',  at  the 
Eussian  station  of  St.  Nicholas,  but  we  have  no  authentic  information  on  the  sub- 
ject beyond  the  statement  by  Tebenkolf.  While  we  were  at  Sitka  exi)erienced 
miners  made  two  prospecting  tours  over  part  of  Baranoff  Island,  but  without  find- 
ing the  "color,"  The  slate  and  quartz  formation  around  Barlow  Cove,  at  the 
head  of  Admiralty  Island,  on  Chatham  Strait,  in  latitude  '>S°  24',  is  abnost  an 
exact  counterpart  of  many  rich  gold  localities  in  California,  but  the  heavy 
weather  that  prevailed  while  we  were  there  a  few  hours  prevented  any  other  than 
a  casual  oxaminaticm  of  one  view  of  quartz  five  feet  thick  cropping  out  upon  the 
shore.    It  was  much  disintegrated  and  abound'^d  in  iron  pyrites. 

In  Little  Naquoshiuski  Inlet,  fifteen  miles  from  Sitka,  the  Coast  Survey  party 
discovered  very  fine  marble  in  inexhaustible  quantities,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Chilkaht  specimens  of  marble  of  a  very  coarse  grain,  and  others  of  a  remarkably 
flna  crystallization,  were  discovered,  all  being  white,  very  pure  ami  unmarked. 

On  the  flank  of  the  mountain  Vostovia,  which  attains  an  elevation  of  three 
thousand  three  hundred  and  eighty-one  feet,  bismuth  of  remarkably  pure  quality 
is  said  to  be  found,  my  informant  being  one  of  the  llussian-American  (!om]  ,iny's 
officers.  The  weather  was  so  shockingly  bad  and  the  season  so  late,  that  it  was 
impracticable  to  send  a  party  of  exploration,  although  the  time  would  occui)y  but 
one  day.  The  specimen  obtained  was  said  to  have  come  from  the  Koloshes  Ki\er, 
but  that  appeared  doubtful,  as  it  was  not  water-worn,  and  the  geologist  made  two 
explorations  up  the  river  for  two  or  three  miles  without  discovering  any  signs. 

Iron  ore  is  reported  in  the  vicinity  of  Sitka,  but  after  two  searches  in  the 
localities  indicated  the  examination  was  abandoned ;  yet  in  this  case  the  failure 
is  attributed  to  our  inforirtant's  inaptitude  for  topographical  description. 

Kotzebue  states  that  his  compass  in  Chamisso  Island,  in  the  eastern  jtart  of 
Kotzebne  Sound,  gave  a  variation  of  only  1°  east,  instead  of  32°  east.  On  the 
point  in  the  southeast  part  of  the  sound  where  the  mammoth  remains  are  in  lati- 
tude 00°  15'.3G,  the  magnetic  needle  gave  a  variation  of  Iflo  west  instead  of  '.V2° 
east.  On  the  summit  of  St.  Paid  Island,  in  the  Pehring  Sea,  he  reports  the  com- 
pass "turning  all  round,"  so  that  he  could  get  no  bearing  until  he  changed  his 
location. 

The  hot  springs  lying  on  the  southwest  part  of  Sitka  Souiul,  about  fifteen 


38 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


milos  from  Sitka,  wore  not  visittMl,  aiid  wo  know  iiotliiiiff  moro  than  tlio  nioafrre 
description  of  liisiaiisky,  Simpson,  anil  otlu'i-s.  Thore  arc  tour  distinct  springs 
issuing  Ironi  tissurcs  in  the  granite  rock.  At  its  sonn-e  tlic  principal  spring  has  a 
toniiM-ratnre  of  ir».'{Ao  Falircnheit,  and  is  chiefly  impregnated  with  sulphur,  but 
has  also  salt  and  magnesia  in  solution.  There  is  also  a  largo  basin  purposely  dug 
in  the  ground  to  receive  the  waters  of  the  springs,  about  two  or  throe  hundred 
yards  from  the  beach  ami  about  hfty  feet  above  high  water;  in  it  the  water  baa  a 
tompcraturo  of  about  lOO^  Fahrenheit.  The  two  substantial  buildings  of  howii 
logs  erected  by  the  Russian  Company  for  hospital  cases  of  chronic,  rheumatic,  and 
cutaneous  diseases,  are  situated  on  the  sloping  fa.-'e  of  the  bank. 

In  front  lies  a  i)retty  little  cove,  completely  sheltered  by  an  archipelago  of 
small  wooded  islands;  in  the  rear  is  a  barrier  of  rugged  mountains;  while  inime- 
diati'ly  within  the  influence  of  the  warm  waters  and  continually  rising  vapors, 
there  grows  a  luxuriant  verdure  even  when  all  around  is  clothed  in  suow.  The 
adjacent  waters  are  alive  with  flsh  and  fowl,  and  the  land  teems  with  deer  and 
other  game. 

Eschscholtz  found  the  temperature  of  hot  springs  in  a  meadow  opposite  the 
entrance  to  Iliouliouk  Harbor,  Unalaska,  93°  or  94°;  other  hot  springs  near 
iMakushin  Mountain  were  tasteless  and  without  smell.  On  Akutau  he  reports  a 
hot  spring  in  which  meat  was  thoroughly  boiled  in  a  short  tinie.  Sulphur  is 
l\mnd  by  the  natives  in  all  the  volcanic  regions. 

Graphite  has  been  reported  on  the  northern  coast,  and  Kotzobue  says  that 
the  natives  of  St.  Lawrence  Bay,  on  the  Asiatic  coast,  nearly  abreast  of  Cape 
Piince  of  Wales,  possessed  a  tolerably  large  quantity  of  a  fine  graphite.* 


FURDEABING  ANniALS. 

Of  the  number  and  value  of  the  different  varieties  of  skins  obtained  from  the 
Indians  by  the  Russian-American  Company  it  is  impossible  to  form  an  opinion, 
as  the  voiy  existence  of  their  trade  depended  upon  the  secrecy  with  which  it  was 
conducted.  That  the  company  has  been  able  to  maintain  a  large  establishment  in 
]»ersons  and  nmterial  is  strong  circumstantial  proof  of  the  value  of  the  trade. 
Tlic  abnost  absurdly  small  amount  of  trading  articles  paid  to  the  Indians  for  their 
most  valuable  skins  was  ascertained  to  be  marvelonsly  low  compared  to  their 
prices  in  our  markets.  The  organization  of  the  company  has  been,  in  fact,  that 
of  a  colonial  government,  and  the  governor  of  the  company  must  be  an  oflicer  of 
the  iini)erial  army  or  navy,  with  power  over  all  cases  not  involving  death  as  a 
punishmeiifc;  and  all  the  soldiers  are  selected  for  their  expertness  in  the  various 
handicrafts.  Tlie  immediate  traflic  of  the  company  has  given  trade  to  not  less 
than  ten  thousand  Russians,  Alentes,  Esquimaux,  &c. ;  besides  fifty-eight  hun- 
dred K(»l()shians,  who  act  as  inter-traders  with  the  numerous  Indians  of  the  inte- 
rior.   The  company  has  numerous  stations  or  factories  throughout  the  length  of 

•Probulily  miciiceoiiH  oxide  of  iron,  wliicli  in  nbund.ant,  iind  used  .as  a  pigment  by  the  natives. 

W.  IT.  Dam.. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


39 


the  coast  and  among  the  Aleutian  Ishuuls;  maintainiu};  nearly  one  thousand 
people  regularly ;  two  fine  steamers  and  several  sandier  ones,  six  or  eight  barks, 
brigs,  &e.,  and  numerous  boats. 

The  value  of  the  furs  nuiy  be  estimated  yearly  at  not  less  than  one  million  of 
dollars  in  gold,  as  the  company  insure  their  regular  shipments  for  six  hundred 
thousand  dollars.  By  the  time  these  furs  reach  our  markots  they  are  doubled  in 
value. 

The  Hudson  Hay  Company  had  purchased  right  to  trade  in  certain  localities 
on  this  coast,  and  their  traders  have  availed  themselves  to  tiie  uttermost  to 
obtain  the  greatest  possible  supplies.  From  the  mouth  of  the  Chilkaht  alone 
they  took  this  year  over  twenty-three  hundred  martens  or  "American  sables." 

It  is  useless  to  enter  into  the  descrii)tion  of  the  diftcrent  kinds  of  fins  upon 
the  coast,  or  of  the  Inibitat  and  relative  abundance  of  the  dilferent  animals.  The 
governor  of  the  company  had  a  map  in  colors  exhibiting  at  a  glance  the  habitat 
of  every  fur  animal  and  its  frequency. 

The  ])olicy  of  the  company  has  been  to  maintain  a  regular  supply,  and  to  this 
end  they  place  restrictions  upon  the  trade,  (!ven  desigiuiting  islands  and  localities 
where  the  aniumls  shall  not  be  taken.  When  the  supply  of  any  animal  is  run- 
ning short,  or  an  island  is  found  peculiarly  adapted  to  support  certain  kinds,  a 
stock  is  placed  upon  the  island  and  the  natives  forbiddcMi  to  hunt  there  for  a 
series  of  years. 

The  use  of  fire-arms  is  prohibited  in  the  pursuit  of  certain  animals  '  die 
noise  is  certain  to  drive  them  away.  The  number  of  sea-otter  skins  now  ai.iuudly 
obtained  does  not  amount  tc  over  eleven  hundred,  where  the  supply  seventy  years 
siiu!e,  in  the  Alexander  Archipelago  alone,  was  eight  thousand,  of  which  it  was 
confessed  that  the  American  fur  traders  secured  over  sixty  per  cent.  IJetweeu 
-Yakutat  Bay  and  Dixon  Sound,  Tebenkoft"  says  that  not  a  single  sea-otter  is 
found,  attributing  their  absence  not  so  much  i  >  *.  ueir  destruction  as  to  .the  noise 
of  fire-arms. 

An  important  consideration  in  sustaining  the  value  of  the  fur  trade,  and 
thereby  continuing  sin  industrial  pursuit  to  the  natives,  will  be  the  rigid  govern- 
mental direction  of  the  proper  seasons  for  killing  the  difterent  fur-bearing  ani- 
mals, and  to  a  certain  extent  the  manner  of  taking  them.  Where  the  practice  is 
to  kill  by  spears  and  arrows,  without  guns,  it  will  be  wise  to  continue  the  custom, 
at  least  until  the  inhabitants  have  become  accustomed  to  the  new  order  of  things, 
and  the  habits  of  the  traders.  Where  the  practice  prevails  to  kill  with  lire-arms, 
it  appears  politic  to  permit  the  sale  of  inferior  powfler  and  arms  in  prescribed 
quantities,  otherwise  those  natives  obtaining  fiu'-bearing  animals  and  game  by 
these  means  will  be  at  a  loss  to  keep  up  the  supply  with  bows  and  arrows,  which 
they  have  abandoned  nmny  yeais.  Every  Indian  in  the  Alexander  Archipelago 
and  along  the  main  possesses  one  or  more  muskets  and  one  or  two  single  or 
double-barreled  pistols ;  bows  and  arrows  are  unknown,  except  as  mere  matters 


40 


ALASKA  COAST  IMLOT. 


of  tnido  IIS  curioHitifH,  uiul  for  tlioHO  purposes  obtiiiued  from  interior  or  very  dis- 
tant tribfs. 

In  ii  few  years  the  wliole  fur  trade  will  degenerate  into  an  illicit  trafllc  with 
whisky  smufinlers,  tuiless  the  most  vi</u\  and  indexible  nu-ans  arc  employed  to 
regulate  it.  Tiie  Indiiiiis  themselves  give  aid  and  comfort  to  the  8mn},'},der  by 
timely  warninj,'  of  apitroachin^j  danger,  by  false  information  to  the  olllcers  of  the 
law,  and  by  secrctiiif;  the  small  vessels  of  the  smufrK'i'i'  when  beiiij,'  searched  for. 
The  tiionsand  harbors  of  the  coast,  the  thick  weather,  and  the  multitude  of  chan- 
nels and  straits,  many  of  which  are  not  even  yet  laid  down,  give  the  advantage  to 
the  smuggler. 

THE  FISIIKRIES. 

Next  to  the  fur  trade,  in  its  legitimate  pursuit,  the  fisheries  of  the  coast  of 
the  new  territory  will  prove  the  most  valuable  and  certai'  n  fact,  I  consider 
them  the  most  imi»ortant  actpiisition  to  our  I'acittc  coast.  'c  banks  of  New- 

foundland have  been  to  the  trade  of  the  Atlantic,  so  will  uic  greater  banks  of 
Alaska  be  to  the  I'aeiiie;  inexhaustible  in  supply  of  lish  that  are  equal  if  not 
siipeiior  in  size  and  quality  to  those  of  the  Atlantic ;  and  the  pursuit  thereof 
developing  a  race  of  seamen  yearly  decreasing,  a:^  our  steam  marine,  commercial 
and  naval,  is  increasing. 

We  have  the  reiterated  and  disinterested  statements  of  all  the  old  navigators 
and  fur  traders,  that  every  ]»art  of  the  coast  abounds  in  cod,  halibut,  salmon,  and 
every  variety  of  flsh  inhabiting  comparatively  cold  waters,  and  the  experience  of 
the  present  exjx'dition  established  the  truthfulness  of  their  descrii)tion8. 

tSnlmiHi. — At  some  of  the  entrances  to  shallow  fresh-water  streams  the  water 
is  packed  with  salmon,  and  the  bears  (!ome  down  in  numbers  to  feed  upon  them, 
selecting  the  heads  only.  On  some  of  the  beaches,  near  these  streams,  the  seine 
will  take  them  in  thousands.  In  the  bays  leading  to  the  small  streams  at  their 
head,  on  the  southeast  side  of  Alaska  Peninsula,  the  salmon  are  crowded  so 
thickly  that  the  progress  of  a  boat  is  impeded,  and  should  a  southeast  storm 
arise  at  such  times  the  iisli  are  driven  on  the  beach  in  innumerable  quantities  ; 
one  of  the  lUissian  navigators  assures  us  that  he  has  seen  the  beach  strewn  two 
to  three  feet  thick  with  the  stranded  salmon. 

The  United  States  Coast  Survey  has  made  a  sketch  of  the  outlet  of  Gloubo- 
koe,  or  Deep  Lake,  on  the  south  side  of  Sitka  Sound,  where  the  Russian- American 
Company  have  built  dams,  traps,  foot-bridges,  houses,  &c.,  in  the  most  substan- 
tial manner.  The  dams  and  traps  lie  across  the  upper  part  of  the  rapids,  which 
have  a  fall  of  nine  feet  over  rocks.  The  traps  are  large  rectangular  spaces  made 
with  .stakes  placed  perpendicularly  ami  near  enough  to  each  other  to  allow  a  free 
How  of  wattr,  and  yet  prevent  the  salmon  passing  between  them.  The  side  of 
the  trap  towards  the  descent  has  an  opening  like  the  entrance  to  an  ordinary  rat- 
trap  on  a  large  scale.  The  fish  rushes  up  the  rapids  and  passes  through  this 
opening  to  the  staked  iuclosure,  where  it  remains  swimming  against  the  moder- 

0 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


41 


atcly  strong  curroiit.  When  sovoral  snliiiuu  hiivo  entere«l  thoy  ar«  liftt'd  out  by  ii 
kind  of  wicker  basket  and  placed  in  lai'fje  Ixixes  lyiny  between  the  traps,  of  wliich 
there  are  six,  wltli  means  of  addiiifj  as  many  more.  The  last  year's  catch  that 
was  packed  for  market  amoniitod  to  live  hnndred  and  twenty  barrels,  containin^j 
from  ei;;liteen  to  twenty-live  salmon  each.  As  hiyh  as  one  thonsand  salmon  have 
been  taken  in  one  day.  In  l.S(»8  the  year's  take,  under  the  impetus  of  American 
enterprise,  was  two  thousand  barrels. 

At  Karta  Hay,  in  Clarence  Straits,  there  is  a  Russian  trading  post  and  sal- 
mon lishery  that  expcc^ts  to  put  up  three  tlnaisand  barrels  of  salnuni  in  l.S(W. 

The  {^reat  winter  food  of  the  natives  is  dry  and  smoked  salmon,  of  which  they 
lay  in  very  large  supi)lies. 

Seennin  says  that  "salmon,  so  frequent  in  Xorlv^n  Sound,  latitude  04°,  are 
not  found  to  the  northward  ni  the  river  IJucklaiid,  emptyiu},'  into  Kotzebuo 
Sound,  in  (itPOj';  they  ai»[»ear,  however,  to  be  super.seded  by  the  mullet,  which 
attains  a  considerable  size.  He  obtained  for  a  blue  bea«l  a  mullet  thirty-three 
inches  long,  weighing  twenty-one  pounds." 

Cud. — IJut  the  most  valiuible  lish  on  the  coast  is  the  cod,  and,  so  far  as 
ascertained,  it  has  already  been  very  profitable  to  those  iaterested  in  it,  although 
in  one  or  two  instances  losses  have  oc(!iirred  by  linding  the  cargo  improperly 
cured.  Those  jtersons  interested  in  it  refused  for  two  or  three  years  to  give 
detailed  information  of  their  outfit,  catch,  profits,  or  banks  where  the  llsU  were 
caught. 

The  richness  and  availability  of  the  cod  banks  were  first  demonstrated  in 
18G4,  in  the  Ochotsk  Sea,  near  the  Saghalin  Lsland.  All  the  vessels  of  18(55 
resorted  there ;  some  fishing  along  the  west  shore  of  the  Kamschatka  Peninsula. 

The  time  for  rea(!liing  the  Peninsula  of  Kamschatka  is  about  the  1st  of  July, 
and  the  average  length  of  passage  from  San  F'ancisco  to  Cape  Lopatka,  the  south- 
ern extremity  of  Kamschatka.  JJut  in  the  Kurile  Strait  small  good  fish  nmy  be 
taken  as  early  as  the  1st  of  June.  At  this  date  the  fish  are  not  found  on  the  west 
coast  of  the  peninsula.  In  July  fish  nuiy  be  taken  in  moderate  quantities  on  the 
southeast  side  of  Cape  Lopatka,  and  in  the  western  part  of  the  Kurile  Strait;  but 
the  best  flshing  ground  conunences  about  forty  miles  northwest  from  Cape  Loi)at- 
ka;  at  the  first  of  the  .season  near  the  shore,  but  extending  twenty  to  twenty-five 
miles  from  the  land  in  latitude  52°  30'  to  53'^.  When  the  fish  como  upon  the  west 
coast  of  Kamschatka  about  the  1st  of  Julj'  they  are  thin  and  poor,  but  improve 
rapidly.  On  this  ground  thej'  are  usually  taken  in  twenty-five  to  thirty  fathoms 
of  water,  though  they  are  found  in  sixteen  fathoms,  say  within  three  miles  of  the 
land.  They  are  caught  as  far  oft"  as  twenty  miles  from  shore  in  depths  from  forty- 
five  to  sixty  fathoms  according  to  latitude. 

Fish  taken  here  two  weeks  after  their  arrival  on  the  ground  are  a  little  larger 
than  those  taken  on  the  coast  of  Labrador,  but  not  so  large  as  thosT  taken  on  the 
Grand  and  other  oft'-shore  banks  in  the  Atlantic.    In  quality  they  compare  very 
favorably  with  the  latter. 
6 


42 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


For  bait  tlie  vessels  have  taken  salt  herring  from  San  Francisco:  some  carry 
frosh  herrirg  from  Petropaulski  in  snow  and  ice;  others  use  the  small  halibut 
canglit  on  the  vahI  banks. 

In  lS(if!  twenty-three  vessels,  comprising  barks,  brigs,  and  schooners,  started 
from  San  Francis(;o  for  the  various  fishing  grounds,  but  concealed  their  particular 
destinritions;  their  time  *br  leaving  San  Francisco  is  as  early  as  March,  airiviug 
on  the  grounds  in  TSpril;  and  they  should  leave  about  September.  More  than 
half  these  vessels  \i sited  the  Ochotsk  Sea,  but  the  rest  fished  off  the  Fox  and 
Shumagui  Islands. 

Two  or  three  small  schooTiers  sailed  from  Victoria  and  made  fair  catches,  so 
much  so  that  the  importation  of  cod  into  the  ports  of  British  Columbia  has  ceased 

The  amount  of  lish  brought  into  the  San  Francisco  market  in  the  er',.sons 
from  18(!4  was  as  follows:  In  1864,  forty  thousand  flsh,  weighing  one  hundred  and 
twenty  tons;  in  1805,  two  hundred  and  forty-nine  thousand  flsh,  weighing  ilve 
hundred  aiul  twenty-three  tons;  in  18GG,  seven  hundred  and  six  thousand  two 
hnnilred  flsh,  weighhig  one  thousaiul  six  hundred  and  fourteen  tons;  and  in  18()7, 
nine  hundred  and  forty-seven  thousand  two  hundred  and  sixty -four  flsh,  weighing 
two  thonsand  one  hundred  and  thirty-four  tons.  Xo  tongues  and  sounds  were 
quoted,  and  were  evidently  not  saved ;  and  only  a  small  quantity  of  cod-liver  oil 
■was  saved  by  one  of  the  vessels  from  Victoria.  The  imports  of  codflsh  from  the 
Atlantic  Sta*^es  for  the  years  1802,  '0,3,  '04,  averaged  nearly  five  hundred  tons,  so 
tliat  the  Alaska  supply  overstocked  the  market  in  the  absence  of  new  outlets.  In 
consetiuence  of  this  the  number  of  vessels  cleared  for  Alaska  cod  banks  in  1SG8 
was  but  twelve,  with  an  aggregate  tonnage  of  one  thousand  four  hundred  and 
twenty  four,  against  two  thousand  one  hundred  and  thirty-four  in  1S(!7.  The  av- 
erage trip  to  the  Shumagin  Islands  is  reported  al)out  one  liundred  and  ten  days, 
and  to  the  Ochotsk  one  hundred  and  seventy  days;  a  saving  of  two  months  anil 
nearly  two  thousand  miles  in  favor  of  the  former. 

The  waters  between  the  Alaska  roninsula  and  the  Sliumagin  Islands  are  well 
protected  from  the  htavy  swell  of  the  riiciflc.  All  the  Calit'ornia  fisliing  vessels 
now  resort  to  the  grounds  about  the  Shuiurtgins,  where  flsh  are  very  plentiful  and 
superior  to  those  taken  in  the  Ochotsk  Sea.  Among  these  islands  are  many  good 
harbors;  iresh  water  is  everywhere  readily  obtained ;  and  some  drift-wood  for  fuel 
may  be  ]U'<,r.>it'd  from  the  shores.  But  the  greatest  advantage  is  that  vessels 
when  Ashing  may  always  lie  under  the  lee  of  soirie  one  of  the  numerous  high 
islands,  thus  making  fishing  a  much  more  comfortable  business  than  when  riding 
out  in  the  open  sen. 

In  this  vicinity  there  appeur  to  be  two  kinds  of  codflsh,  one  of  which  is  small, 
btit  of  good  tpiality.  Tliese  have  always  been  fduud  )»y  tlie  fishermen,  no  matter 
how  early  or  late  in  the  sei'.son  the  vessel  arrived  upon  tlie  ground— say  from  the 
first  of  May  to  tlie  last  of  September.  The  other  kiiul  is  considered  migratory; 
arrive  about  tlie  10th  of  ]\lay,  and  leave  some  time  in  September.    These  latter 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


43 


are  a  little  smallor  than  the  Ochotsk  flsh  when  taken,  but  when  dried  turn  out 
heavier. 

The  kind  of  bait  used  here  is  salted  herrings  from  San  Francisco,  and  halibut 
and  sculpin  caught  on  the  ground. 

1*^  has  been  the  i)ractice  of  the  vessels  among  the  Shumagins  to  rnn  on  Satur- 
day night  for  Coal  Harbor,  on  the  north  end  of  Unga,  and  remain  there  over  Sun- 
day night,  when  they  again  start  out  for  a  week's  Ashing. 

The  winds  about  the  Suumagins  and  in  the  Ochotsk  Sea  from  June  until  tlie 
middle  of  August  are  from  the  southeast  with  rain  and  fog;  and  from  the  middle, 
of  August  to  the  middle  of  September  from  the  northwest,  with  Hue  weather  and 
smooth  water ;  after  which  there  are  heavy  southerly  gales. 

In  our  voyage  to  Iviidiak  and  Unalaska,  and  returning  to  Sitka,  Ave  saw  none 
of  the  tmmerous  fishing  fleet  that  was  out  this  season,  probably  on  account  of  the 
lateness  ol  the  season. 

The  supply  from  vhe  Alaska  banks  has  stopped  the  importation  of  codfish 
from  the  eastern  ports  to  San  Francisco,  and  when  the  curing  \  rocess  is  properly 
understood  and  carried  out,  the  Pacific  coasts  of  America  and  Asia  will  beconui 
consumers.  Tl  e  yearly  supply  from  the  Atlandc  States  was  about  five  hundred 
tons;  but  the  jod  iieet  brought  in  about  tlu-ee  times  this  amount  ii»  18(i7,  and 
overstocked  the  nuu'ket.    In  18(18  only  ninet(!en  vessels  left  for  the  (!(>d  banks. 

The  fish  ha\»  not  been  cured  on  the  Aleutian  Islands  because  the  territory 
bijlonged  to  Russia,  but  were  kept  in  salt  as  long  as  six  mouths,  or  until  the  retmn 
of  the  vessel  to  San  Francisco,  evidently  to  the  injury  of  the  cargo.  Many  of  the 
persons  euga;^';iiig  in  the  business  knew  nothing  of  the  manner  of  catcliing  or  of 
curing  the  fish,  yet  the  prices  conumuided  were  from  thirteen  to  seven  and  a  half 
cents  (gold)  per  pound;  and  last  February  the  average  rate  was  nine  and  a  half 
cents.  One  vessel  carried  a  full  cargo  direct  to  Australia,  and  received  eight 
cents  per  pouiul. 

Tlie  large  amount  of  flsh  con:  luued  in  California  has  always  created  and  sus- 
tained a  large  demand,  and  tli  new  cargoes  have  been  fjuickly  disposed  of  at 
rates  ranging  as  high  as  thirteen  cents  per  pound.  The  southern  coasts  of  Amer- 
ica are  almost  wholly  Catholic  in  their  population,  and  so  soon  as  the  flsh  are  well 
cured,  the  demand  from  that  source  will  increase.  It  is  doubtful  whether  we  can 
compete  with  the  Asiatic  flshennen  in  their  own  ports. 

Some  of  the  vessels  are  said  to  commence  flshiu.:  along  tlMJ  Alaska  coast 
noi'th  of  54°  40',  and  to  work  northwartl  along  r.nmerous  banks  which  they  a[>pear 
to  have  louiul.  The  fish  are  taken  in  from  fifteen  to  forty  fathoms  of  water;  the 
best  fish  in  tl.>e  deepest  Avater. 

It  has  bee.i  found  i)ractically  tlmt  the  Ochotsk  Sea  is  too  distant  from  San 
Francisco,  and  the  ilccts  of  18(>7  aiul  18(58,  from  Sau  Francisco,  fishing  among  the 
Fox  and  Shumagin  Islands,  report  that  wherever  the  water  is  sufliciently  shoal 
the  cod  is  very  abundant.    In  18(5(5  the  largest  takes  Avere  among  the  Sbunuigin 


44 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


^ 


Islands,  off  wliicU  we  s^t  sonnilings  this  year  in  forty  and  fifty  fathoms  at  a  dis- 
tance of  tliirty-fivc  miles. 

The  Moumlliij[,'s  of  Portlock,  of  Vanconver,  and  of  this  expedition  prove  the 
existence  of  a  comparatively  shoal  bank,  extending  along  the  southeastern  coast 
of  Afogiiak  and  Kadiak,  with  a  deep  pocket  of  ninety  fathoms,  no  bottom,  twenty- 
five  miles  east  of  St.  Paul.  The  shoalest  water  obtained  on  this  bark  by  this 
expedition  was  forty-flve  fathoms  in  latitude  58°  IC,  longitude  140°  42'.  It  is  fair 
to  assume  that  this  bank  extends  along  the  southeast  sho^e  of  Kadiak,  as  inci- 
dental and  unconnected  observations  indicate.  Belcher  anchored  under  Cape 
Greville,  the  eastern  ])oint  of  Kadiak,  in  an  excellent  position,  and  his  crew 
caught  cod  and  halibut  from  the  vessel.  South  bv  east  fourteen  miles  from  the 
castein  end  of  ttie  easternmost  of  the  Trinity  Islands  Vancouver  found  bottom  at 
fifty  fathoms.  Souiulings  on  the  English  Chart  No.  2172  give  fifty-five  fathoms 
nearly  midway  between  the  Trinity  Isles  and  tJkamok  Island,  which  lies  on  the 
prolongation  of  the  longer  axis  of  Kadiak,  fifty  miles  from  the  Trinity.  Fifteen 
miles  south  of  tTkamok  Vancouver  got  seventy-five  fathoms,  sand  and  shell  bot- 
tom. In  latitude  55°  10',  longitude  15(P  07',  tliirty-six  miles  south  31°  west  from 
the  south  end  of  Vkamok  Island,  Lisiansky  found  eighty  fathoms  over  grey  sandy 
bottom.  Thirty-five  miles  east  from  the  south  end  of  the  island  of  Niuniak,  the 
southernmost  of  the  Shumagin  Islands,  we  obtiiined  coral  and  sand  bottom  in 
f<uty  fathoms  of  water;  the  position  is  in  latitude  54°  ,'58',  longitude  158°  .'50'.  Ten 
miles  further  westward  the  depth  of  water  Avas  fifty  fathoms.  In  neither  of  these 
localities  were  any  attempts  made  to  fish. 

Tebonkoff  gives  soundings  of  forty-five  fathoms  fifty  miles  south  83°  west  of 
the  southernmost  point  of  the  Shumagin,  on  the  line  and  nearly  half  way  towards 
the  dang(M(»us  reef  aiul  island  of  Sanak.  From  that  position  the  nearest  islands 
to  the  northward  are  about  thirty-five  miles  distant.  In  latitude  54°  20'  ami  lon- 
gitude 102O  30',  about  nine  miles  southeast  from  the  Sanak  reef,  we  got  bottom 
in  thirty-five  fathoms,  rock  and  barnacles  being  brought  up  by  the  lead. 

In  nearly  this  last  locality  Cook  caught  over  one  hundred  halibut  ranging 
fro'u  twenty  to  one  hundred  pounds  each.  lie  therefore  ai^plied  the  name  Halibut 
Island  to  it. 

The  bank  where  trial  was  first  made  for  fish  was  found  on  the  fifth  of  Septem- 
ber, during  a  ])revalen('e  of  tliick  weather.  We  fortunately  seized  an  opening  and 
obtained  good  observations  for  longitude;  with  an  ai>proxiniate  latitude,  the  posi- 
tion is  in  latitude  53o  35'  and  longitude  l(»4o  10',  and  near  it  soundings  were 
obtained  in  fifty  fathoms  of  water,  the  lead  bringing  up  sand  and  a  snndl  starfish. 
With  thick  drizzly  weather  the  vessel  drifted  to  the  northwest  by  comjjass,  until 
sixty  fathoms  were  struck  with  sandy,  ju-bbly  bottom.  Here  the  lead-line  was 
baited,  and  while  on  the  bottom  the  first  cod  look  the  hook.  The  fish  proved  very 
plenty,  fat,  and  bit  eagerly;  frecpuMitly  two  were  brought  up  on  a  double-hooked 
line,  and  sometimes  three  were  brought  up  on  a  line  with  three  hooks.  The 
largest  measured  thirty-seven  inches  in  length,  and  several  reached  thirty-six 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


45 


inclics.  Tlie  finest  was  tliirty-six  inches  long,  tweiity-tliroc  inclics  girth,  and 
weighed  twenty-seven  ponnds;  was  very  f;it,  and  certainly  of  as  line  if  not  finer 
flavor  than  cod  we  liad  eaten  eleven  months  before,  freshly  canght  on  the  south 
coast  of  Newfoundland. 

The  vess(!l  drifted  all  the  afternoon  over  this  bank,  with  tho  same  depth  of 
water  and  fish  biting  well,  although  all  appeared  in  capital  condition  and  their 
7'>aws  full  of  food,  such  as  squid,  halibut-head,  fish  the  size  of  a  herring,  sea-lice, 
&c.,  &e.  We  got  no  observations  that  noon  or  afternoon,  nor  any  all  the  next 
day,  on  account  of  thick,  foggy,  drizzling  weather,  but  the  vessel  could  not  have 
been  far  from  latitude  5iP  40'  and  longitude  l(»4o  ;3()',  lying  sixty-five  miles  east- 
southeast  true  from  the  middle  of  the  Akoutan  Pass,  and  forty  nnles  south-south- 
east from  the  Unimal  Pass.  The  weather  was  altogether  too  unfavorable  to  make 
an  exteiuled  examination  of  this  locality.  The  fifty-fathom  position  is  forty  miles 
broad  ofl;"  the  nearest  island  of  tho  Kriniatzin  group,  lying  between  iTnimak  and 
TTnalaska.  Much  deeper  water,  one  hundred  and  four  fathoms,  over  a  bottom  of 
black  sand,  was  snbsecpiently  found  in  latitude  53°  38',  longitude  165°  25',  forty- 
three  miles  westward  of  the  above  cod  bank,  and  twenty-five  miles  broad  off  the 
islands. 

In  addition  to  the  alread'  cknowledged  success  of  the  cod-fishers  from  San 
Francisco  and  Victoria,  anti  xpcrience,  we  have  that  of  <'iiiit  tin  Ibyant, 

formerly  a  whaler  in  the  North  I'iicific:  "Bdning  Sea  is  a  mig'ity  rewrvoir  of  cod 
and  halibut,  so  that  he  never  threw  ovn  his  lines  without  Iringing  up  fish  in 
whatever  part  of  the  sea  he  might  happen.''*  ''In-  s(mndiims  if  this  sea,  and  of 
the  Arctic  Ocean  north  of  Behring's  Strait,  indicate  it  as  the  most  ri'maikable 
submarine  plateau  of  such  great  extent  j'et  known.  On  (lie  eaMcrn  half  of  this 
sea  soundings  of  less  than  fifty  fathoms  are  found  i«\(r  mi  extent  of  eighteen 
thonsaiul  square  miles. 

The  old  navigators  and  fur  traders  found  cod  in  all  tiie  iiarbors  on  the  coast 
and  wherever  they  fished  for  them.  Kotzebue  alone  dechn  cs  "  •  saw  no  fish  on  all 
the  American  coast;  we  often  threw  out  our  lines,  but  nil  mi.   I  believe,  there- 

fore, either  there  are  no  fish  here  at  all,  or  they  do  not  n  ^mt  here  at  this  season," 
July,  August,  and  Sejjtember.  Sjjeaking  of  the  archipelago  Alexander,  Lisiansky 
says  "the  rivers  abound  in  fish;  herring  swarm  in  Sitka  Sound  every  spring;  tine 
codfish  and  halibut  of  large  weight  may  be  caught  with  the  hook  and  line." 
Cook  in  his  third  voyage  caught  cod  in  latitude  54°  07',  longitude  104°  25',  about 
seventeen  miles  southeast  from  iTninuik  Strait  in  forty-two  fathoms.  He  obtained 
cod  from  the  Aleutes  in  Snniganuda  Bay,  at  the  northeast  part  of  Unalaska  Island, 
opening  on  the  Akutan  Strait. 

In  Behring  Sea,  in  latitude  55°  43',  longitude  102°  42',  about  twenty  miles 
broad  otf  the  northwest  «hore  of  the  Alaska  I'eninsula,  he  "caught  a  good  num- 
ber of  fiiu?  codlish"  in  thirty  fathoms.    In  Bristol  Bay  and  Kiver,  emptying  into 


•Tilt  ic  nil  III)  rod  iMirtli  of  tlin  liiie  of  iloatiiin  ice  lii'fiirc  iin  iitioiicil,  fioiii  flic  bent  iiifoiiim- 
tion  1  liiive  biirn  iible  to  obtuiu.    Tliivc  iiiv  ut  uay  iiitf  nour  in  Norton  SouikI.— \V.  li.  lt.\l,l,. 


4(3 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


tlio  lU'liriiit;' Sen,  whoro  salmon  wiTo  in  iLjroat  iibundancc,  h«  found  that  fish  " in 
the  maws  of  cod  which  lie  had  .  iu{,'ht."  In  the  same  bay,  southeast  Hagmeister 
Island,  in  water  of  fourteen  to  twenty-six  fathoms,  he  "liad  tolerably  successful 
lishinf'-,catcliin}''  cod  imd  then  a  few  Hat  fish."  In  latitude  01°  48',  longitude  180°, 
St.  Thadcns  Nose  bcaiing  nortli-northwest  about  twenty-three  leagues  distant,  he 
caught  >'abundan(!e  of  line  (M)d"  in  sixty-flve  to  seventy-flve  fathoms  water.  His 
successor,  King,  in  Sei)tembcr  1779,  in  latitude  5(P  38',  longitude  177o,  about  cue 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  west  by  south  quarter-south  from  the  is'raul  of  St.  Mathew, 
"got  a  great  number  of  cod  in  seventy-eight  fathoms."  Portk  .'..  obtained  large 
quantities  of  fine  cod,  halibut,  crabs  and  muscles  in  Tort  Etches.  Captain  Bry- 
ant says:  "South  of  Alaska,  at  a  distance  of  say  fifty  miles  from  shore,  there  are 
banks  running  parallel  to  the  coast  admirable  for  cod-fishing;  these  banks  can 
usually  be  recognized  by  the  lighter  color  o""  the  water." 

The  banks  along  the  shores  of  Alaska  bordering  the  Gulf  of  Alaska,  around 
the  Kadiak  group  and  part  of  tlu!  Aleutian  chain,  will  add  not  less  than  forty-five 
thousand  scpuirc  miles,  with  a  depth  of  not  over  fifty  fathoms,  to  the  eighteen 
thousand  miles  of  the  IJehring  Sea.  If  the  fishing  deptu  is  extended  to  one 
hundred  fathoms  there  is  little  doubt  that  the  cod-fishing  area  will  reach  one 
hundred  thousand  sipuire  miles. 

The  fisliing  smacks  carry  their  bait  from  San  Francisco  at  a  cost  of  about  one 
hundred  dollars  in  gold  for  a  one-hundred  ton  vessel.  We  fished  with  clams,  the 
nehizothcnis  iixttaUii,  obtained  at  Port  Simpson  on  our  way  up;  but  there  are 
l>lenty  of  small  fish,  herring,  clams,  &c.,  suitable  for  bait,  in  all  the  harbors  along 
the  coast.  The  clam  hangs  best  to  the  hook.  In  this  connection  it  may  be  stated 
that  experience  has  proved  the  muscle  of  Alaskan  waters  to  be  very  frerinently 
poisonous.  This  is,  without  (h)ubt,  the  case  at  certain  seasons,  as  ])roved  by 
Vancouver,  Kotzebue.  and  oilicrs.  lint  I'ortlock  ajtpears  to  have  used  them  in 
large  (pmntities  in  Port  Etches ;  and  Lisiansky  speaks  of  them  as  if  used  regu- 
larlj  on  his  vessel. 

Tin-  imptutance  of  the  possession  of  the  Aleutian  chain  can  hardly  be  over- 
estimated ;  not  only  can  our  fishermen  enter  and  fish  in  every  bay  when  heavy 
weather  compels  them  to  leave  the  banks,  but  they  give  ample  opportunities  for 
the  successful  curing  of  the  fish,  certainly  as  great,  if  not  greater,  than  exists  on 
the  south  shore  of  Newfoundland.  Instead  of  making  the  long  trip  to  and  from 
San  Francisco,  and  of  keeping  the  fish  so  long  in  salt,  especially  if  imperfectly 
cleaned,  it  appears  feasible  to  make  a  general  depot  and  curing  establishment,  as 
at  Kadiak,  whence  vessels  could  carry  the  catch  of  all  the  smacks,  which  might 
readily  refit  in  winter  and  be  ready  for  tin'  (qx  iiiiig  of  the  next  season.  Kadiak  is 
mentioned  as  afiording  the  nearest  a\  ailable  timber  for  repairs,  and  as  already 
a  dejjot  fm'  the  ice  crop  of  the  Pacific. 

In  conversation  with  the  governor  of  the  Russian  colonies  upon  the  value  of 
the  cod  fisheries,  he  acknowledged  that  the  Kussian  government  had  not  been 
aware  of  the  extent,  value,  and  importance  of  the  v'od  grouiuls  as  a  new  industry 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


47 


in  the  Patnflc.  While  its  commercial  value  is  so  great  to  us,  it  will  jirove  of  great 
service  to  the  Aleutes,  who  are  patient,  skillful,  and  fearless  in  their  fishing.  Under 
proper  guidance  they  may  be  very  profitably  employed  in  the  taking  and  curing 
offish;  and  in  order  that  our  fisherman  may  know  where  to  find  labor  among 
these  islands,  we  have  procured  from  the  priest  of  the  Unalaska  district  the 
population  of  every  village  from  Attau  to  Uuga.  These  statistics  will  be  found 
under  the  head  of  population,  &c. 

In  addition  to  the  fisheries  of  the  great  baidc,  the  cod  are  reported  to  run  in 
great  numbers  in  the  summer  around  and  near  the  entrance  to  Hamilton  Bay  near 
the  western  part  of  Frederick  Sound.  Lisiansky  says  they  may  be  caught  with 
hook  Owd  line  in  Sitka  Sound;  Tortlock  caught  them  in  Port  Etches;  IJelcher 
caught  them  from  his  vessiil  inside  Cape  ('hiniak,  and  doubtless  n-any  otiier 
localities  will  afford  abundant  local  sup:  dies. 

Herring. — In  September,  when  drawing  the  seine  for  salmon  at  Iliouliouk 
Harbor,  several  herring  were  obtained  of  large  size,  fatter  and  of  much  finer 
flavor  than  the  herring  caught  on  the  California  coast.  No  int'ormatiou  was 
obtained  of  the  season  wheu  they  visit  the  coast.  They  are  found  in  the  vicinity 
of  Sitka,  and  doubtless  visit  the  whole  seaboard.  Portlock  nuMitions  that  "when 
haxding  the  seine,  he  caught  large  quantities  of  herring  and  some  salmon.  Tiic 
herrings,  though  small,  were  very  good,  and  two  hogsheads  of  them  were  salted 
for  sea  store." 

Lisiansky  says:  "Herrings  swarm  in  Sitka  Souiul  every  spring." 

Seemann  says  that  the  herring  aiul  whiting  are  caught  in  Hotham  Iidet,  in 
Kotzebue  Sound,  latitude  67°,  in  great  quantities;  muI  souu*  of  the  smaller 
streams  produce  trout. 

Wrangell  ssiys  that  suoa'  of  herring  asceiul  the  Kolyma  River,  Asia,  from 
the  Arctic  Ocean,  but  they  appeared  to  come  from  the  west  towards  the  east. 

The  herring,  besides  its  own  intrinsic  value,  has  an  important  bearing  on  the 
question  of  the  cod  fisheries  in  sujiplying  bait,  which  is  now  carried  from  San 
Francisco  for  that  purpose  at  large  prices. 

Whale. — Tlie  waters  surrounding  the  Territory  of  Alaska  have  always  been 
celebrated  for  their  whale  fisheries,  and  the  Russian- American  Company  formerly 
paid  some  attention  to  this  branch  of  industry  and  profit,  and  had  surveys  nuulo 
in  Cook's  Iidet  for  ascertaining  the  proper  anchorages  and  harbors  for  their 
whalers  in  winter.  They  even  established  a  ship-building  establishment  in 
Resurrection  Bny  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Kenay  Peninsula,  and  employed  an 
English  superintt inh'ut,  but  as  the  whaling  was  not  so  remunerative  as  the  fur 
trade,  their  v  lolc  efforts  were  directed  to  the  full  legitimate  development  of  that 
business. 

Some  of  the  Russian  navigators  inform  us  that  their  best  whaling  ground, 
from  the  middle  of  .Tur.o  to  the  middle  of  July,  was  in  the  region  named 
"Fairweather  Ground"  by  the  American  whalers,  and  lying  between  the  I'aniplona 
Reef  and  the  shores  off  Mount  Fairweather.    The  richness  of  this  locality  is  con- 


m 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


flniu'd  by  all  the  nltl  iiaviffntois  and  fur  traders,  who  foiuul  these  waters  aboimd- 
iiif{  i;<  whales,  csijecially  in  the  r('f,non  of  the  JJarren  Islands,  between  the  Peninsula 
of  Ke,'i;i.  and  the  island  of  Kadiak.  As  early  as  June  4,  (1787,)  Dixon,  when  four 
or  five  leagues  off  IJehring  Bay,  found  many  whales  playiufj  about  his  ship. 

Captain  Bryant  says  that  "Pairweather  Oround"  is  at  proper  seasons  the 
great  recejjtaele  of  the  nn)llusk  called  "whale's  food,"  a  minute  aninud,  about  tho 
size  of  a  flax  seed ;  and  having  a  gelatinous  consistency,  the  myriads  of  them 
eover  the  ocean  like  a  scum. 

This  inollnsk  drifts  along  with  the  coast  current  towards  the  west  at  the  rate 
of  about  one  mile  ])er  hour.  During  this  season  the  sea  ,ind  all  the  adjacent  bays 
are  lilJed  with  tlui  whale.  Tiie  nn)llnsk  collects  under  the  lee  of  the  submarine 
range  of  Pamplona.  The  whaling  season  continues  from  the  last  of  June  to  the 
middle  of  July. 

It  beconu's  an  interesting  question  to  trace  back  the  path  of  this  moUusk ; 
the  indications  of  whale  in  the  vicinity  of  the  divide  of  the  Japan  current,  about 
latitude  IS'^  and  longitude  IfSo,  are  such  as  to  suggest  the  probability  of  the 
mollusk  being  brought  by  the  great  stream  towards  the  coast.  The  old  navi- 
gators notice  nmny  whales  in  that  region  as  early  as  April. 

The  clio  horealis  inhabiting  the  Atlantic  Ai'ctic  seas,  is  a  small  aninnil  with  a 
cylindrical  head,  body,  and  a  pointed  tail,  but  having  in  addition  a  pair  of  fins,  by 
means  of  which  it  progresses.  When  the  weather  is  calm  they  are  so  abundant 
that  the  surface  of  the  ocean  is  covered  by  them.  They  swarm  in  such  myriads 
as  to  serve  as  the  great  part  of  the  food  of  the  whales.  This  species  is  not  found 
in  the  North  Pacific,  the  principal  food  of  the  whale  there  being  the  "biit," 
Avhich  is  conijjosed  of  small  crustacean  ami  various  species  of  salpse. 

Off  the  Barren  Isles,  at  the  entrance  to  Cook's  Inlet,  and  ofi  Cape  ITermo- 
genes  of  the  Kadiak  group,  Dixon  (1787)  says  the  whales  were  so  plentiful  near 
the  land  that  their  blowing  was  frecpicntly  mistaken  for  the  breaking  upon  a  reef 
of  rocks.  Off  the  entrance  to  Cook's  Inlet,  Portlock  writes  in  August,  178G,  that 
"the  whales  on  the  coast  are  close  in  shore  and  in  vast  numbers;"  again,  "a  very 
great  nmnber  of  (iallicia  whales  were  seen  near  the  shore,  and  indeed  in  every 
direction  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach." 

Belcher  says  that  in  June,  1839,  when  anchored  off  Cape  Greville,  the  eastern- 
most point  of  Kadiak,  "  whales  were  swarming;  the  numbers  seen  spouting  at  the 
same  instant  seeiiu'd  iiicredil)le,  and  can  only  be  compared  to  the  ricochet  result- 
ing from  Ih'ing  the  broadsides  of  a  frigate." 

Ilobuberg  says  that  around  the  Kadiak  group  there  is  found  but  one  species 
of  whale,*  (Bahenoptera,)  but  aconding  to  its  age  the  natives  apply  four  different 
names,  and  almost  exclusively  catch  those  of'one  year  old  or  less.  The  whales 
come  into  the  bays  about  the  michlle  of  July,  and  can  be  hunted  until  the  end  of 
August. 


'  Au  evident  error.    (Dnll,) 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


49 


As  this  ground  has  not  been  fished  for  many  years  it  appears  probable  tliat 
large  numbers  might  be  obtained. 

Wrangell  says  that  the  inhabitants  of  the  'lYlmkchee  village,  on  the  south 
point  of  Koliutschin,  or  Pnrney  Island,  in  the  Arctic,  off  the  Asiatic  shores,  killed 
fifty  whales,  besides  walrussciL'.  &c.,  in  the  season  of  1821.  He  says  that  a  whale 
was  killed  on  that  coast  having  one  of  the  stone  spears  of  the  Aleutes  in  its  body. 

About  Unalaska  we  saw  nuiibers  of  sperm  whale  in  September;  and  in 
August  the  sperm  whaler,  William  Gifford,  was  entering  the  north  strait  of  Kadiak 
to  fill  up,  reporting  as  having  left  the  coast  of  Queen  Chai'lotto  Island,  where  four 
other  sperm  whalers  Avere  fishing  i'.;!«  s*>asou.  The  Gitibrd  had  been  out  from 
New  Bedford  since  November,  1803,  her  time  being  five  years.  She  had  sent 
home  two  thousand  seven  hundred  gallons  of  sperm  oil,  worth  $90,000  in  gold, 
and  had  on  board  four  hundred  ban  ols  more,  intending  to  take  nothing  but  sperm 
whale  until  near  the  end  of  her  cruise. 

A  great  many  wl'ales  are  found  in  Llie  straits  of  the  archipelago  Alexander, 
but  the  veiy  deep  water  is  a  drawback  to  successful  fishing. 

For  the  last  six  years  the  Avhaliug  fleet  of  the  atretic  has  averaged  not  less 
than  eighty  vessels,  of  which  seventy  belonged  to  the  United  States.  Their  aver- 
age catch  in  those  wsiters  amounts  to  not  less  than  twelve  hundred  barrels  eiich, 
and  about  twenty  thoustnd  pounds  of  whjilebone,  reckoning  the  latter  at  sixteen 
pounds  to  the  barrel  of  oil.  The  priucipal  reasou  given  by  the  whalers  for  prefer- 
ring the  Arctic  regions  over  the  Gulf  of  Alaska  is  the  shallower  water,  in  the 
Arctic  Ocean  and  Behring  Sea  the  ^ipth  of  water  is  about  thirty  fathoms,  and  the 
whale,  in  "  sounding,"  after  being  struck,  dives  his  head  into  the  muddy  bottom, 
and  has  it  covered  with  mud  when  he  rises.  The  whaler  learns  readily  where  and 
when  he  will  rise  i^  such  a  depth,  but  in  the  deeper  waters  of  the  Gulf  of  Alaska 
the  whale  dees  not  strike  bottom  in  sounding,  and  it  is  very  difficult  to  estimate 
where  he  will  rise,  and  not  unfrequcntly  sounds  again  and  again,  and  thus  draws 
the  boats  far  from  the  vessel. 

The  command  of  all  the  bays  and  straits  of  the  northwest  coast  resorted  to 
by  the  whale  gives  very  great  advantages  to  our  whalers  that  need  only  be  men- 
tioned to  be  appreciated ;  fishing  at  all  seasons,  opportunites  to  winter  and  refit, 
depots  for  cargoes,  and  regularity  in  transshipping  them  to  the  eajt  or  to  the 
Pacific  ports.  It  opens  the  broad  question  whether  the  whaling  cannot  be  more 
effectually  and  more  profitably  done  in  smaller  vessels  specially  designed  and  con 
structed  for  capturing  the  whale,  and  then  storing  the  oil  at  some  depot  in  the 
Behring  Sea,  whence  it  can  be  regularly  shipped  to  destinatio!i ;  while  the  whal- 
ing vessel,  working  until  the  latest  day  '>f  the  season,  discharges  her  crew  of 
Aleutes  among  their  island  honvjs,  and  lays  ip  for  the  winter  in  Alaskan  harbors, 
ready  for  the  whaling  ground-,  at  the  earliest  opening  of  spring.  If  this  be  done, 
with  the  increased  knowledge  of  the  whale's  habits  and  the  aptitude  of  the 
Al<  utes,  the  American  whalers  can  sweep  the  field  of  foreign  competition. 
7 


50 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


'  WALRUS  IVORY. 

Coal  ITaibor,  on  the  north  side  of  the  iisland  of  Unga,  has  been  the  point  for 
receiving  the  wuU-us  tusks  obtained  from  the  Wahnis  Islands,  on  the  north  side 
of  the  Alaska  Peninsula.  During  tlie  Aviuter  the  walrus  is  said  to  be  driven  by 
great  bodies  of  ice  into  the  larger  bay,  thirty  miles  long  and  ten  miles  wide, 
embracing  the  Walrus  Islands.  Here  the  uitivcs  kill  them,  secure  the  tusks, 
and  trade  them  to  an  employ^  of  the  Eussi  an- American  Company  stationed  at 
the  storehouse  in  Moller's  Bay,  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  stream  in  latitude  55°  5.V, 
and  longitude  100°  41'.  Thence  the  stock  is  carried  on  the  shoulders  of  the 
natives,  or  on  dog-sledges,  across  the  peninsula  to  the  head  of  Portage  Bay,  twelve 
miles  deep  by  four  miles  wide,  lying  north-northwest  and  south-southeast  by  com- 
pass, and  directly  north  of  Unga  Island.  In  Portage  Bay  they  are  met  by  another 
body  of  natives  in  their  bidarkas,  or  skin  canoes,  from  Coal  Harbor,  whither  the 
tusks  are  transported.  In  some  seasons  ten  tons  of  these  tusks  arc  secured  by 
the  Indians,  and  they  are  valued  at  seventy  cents  (gold)  per  ponnd  at  Sitksi. 
Largo  quantities  of  the  tusks  are  obtained  in  trade  and  capture  by  the  Arctic 
whalers,  who  also  try  out  the  oil.  The  skin  of  the  walrus  is  used  by  the  Aleutea 
and  by  the  Esquimaux  for  constructing  their  large  travelling  boats,  (!alled  baidurs, 
capable  of  carrying  ten  tons  of  freight.  At  the  saw  mill  on  Woody  Island, 
oppsite  St.  Paul,  the  Walrus  hide  is  successfully  nsed  for  heavy  machine  belting. 

The  systematic  linnting  of  the  wahnus,  prompted  by  better  prices  than  have 
been  paid  by  the  barely  life-sustaining  tariff  of  the  Russian- American  Company, 
will  develop  this  valuable  branch  of  industry.  Arctic  whalers  just  from  those 
Milters  assure  us  that  the  number  of  these  animals  is  incalculable. 

Near  Point  Mulgrave,  in  the  Arctic,  Cook  found  them  in  great  numbers ;  one 
weighed  eight  hundred  and  fifty-four  pounds;  and  they  are  generally  of  the  size 
of  an  ox,  Near  Cape  Lisbnrne  "the  numbers  of  walrus  is  almost  incredible;"  his 
crew  liked  the  flesh,  and  called  it  "marine  beef."  When  Kotzebue  was  at  anchor 
in  eighteen  and  one-half  fathoms,  on  the  north  side  of  East  Cape,  "thousands  of 
walrus  played  round  the  ship,  and  roared  like  oxen  j  and  among  them  appeared 
several  whales." 


POPULATION  AND  GENERAL  CnARACXERISTICS  OF  THE  INHABITANTS. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  enter  into  an  elaborate  account  of  the  divisions  and 
subdivisions  of  the  Indian  races  that  inhabit  the  seaboard  of  Alaska,  although  wo 
have  had  translated  and  gathered  nuich  material  upon  that  subject ;  nor  is  it  ex- 
pected that  any  account  of  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  people  will  by  required. 

Tiie  annexed  otticial  table  of  the  population  of  Alaska,  excluding  Esquimaux, 
Kohishes,  and  inland  tribes,  has  been  obtained  through  the  kindness  of  Prince 
:Maksutoff,  from  the  archives  of  the  Russian-American  Company  at  Sitka,  and 
includes  the  Russian  half-breeds,  (known  throughout  this  territory  as  Creoles,  (the 
Aleutes,  the  Aliaskans  of  Alaska  Peninsula,  and  the  natives  of  Cook's  Inlet,  or 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


51 


Keiiay  Bay,  rrince  William  Souud,  and  Copper  River.  The  inhabitants  of  Lenni- 
sin,  Behring  and  Copper  Islands,  are  embraced  by  the  table ;  bat  in  arriving  at 
the  numbers  now  subject  to  the  laws  of  the  United  States,  tlioy  and  the  llussians 
are  excluded  from  the  final  enumeration.  The  total  adult  and  minor  pojiulatiou 
then  stands  four  thousand  five  huudi'ed  and  eleven  males,  and  four  thousand  five 
hundred  and  five  females. 

The  Koloshes  are  inhabitants  of  the  Alexander  Archipelago,  and  extend  as 
far  west  as  Yakutat  or  Behring  Bay,  while  many  of  them  visit  the  Atna  or  Copper 
River  every  season  for  the  purposes  of  trade,  and  are  supposed  to  muiiber  four  or 
five  thousand,  although  Tebenkoft'  place  them  at  forty  thousand  I  and  describes 
them  as  a  fierce  and  treacherous  race. 

Bishop  Veniaminoff  enumerates  all  their  villages,  and  sums  up  their  total 
numbers  at  five  thousand  eight  hundred  from  Dixon  Sound  to  Yakutat  Bay.  Kot- 
eebue  says  they  bear  the  same  relation  to  the  human  race  that  polecats  do  to 
other  qimdrupeds. 

The  Esquimaux  north  of  Norton  Sound  and  round  the  Arctic  shores  are  esti- 
mated by  Beechey  to  number  twenty-five  hundred,  which  estimate  is,  doubtless, 
excessive. 

Through  the  courtesy  of  the  officers  of  the  company  we  are  able  to  fur- 
ther subdivide  the  numbers  given  in  the  table  among  their  respective  islands  and 
districts : 

On  the  Island  of  Atton,  one  hundred  and  fifteen  male  and  one  hundred  an*' 
five  female  Alcutes. 

On  the  Island  of  Atkha,  one  hundred  and  forty-six  male  and  one  hundred 
and  fifty-nine  female  Aleutes. 

On  the  Island  of  St.  Paul,  one  hundi'cd  and  forty-seven  male  and  one  hun- 
dred and  thirty-six  female  Aleutes. 

The  population  of  the  islands  and  villages  of  the  Unalaska  anti  tJnga  dis- 
tricts was  kindly  furnished  us  by  the  priest  of  Ilioidiouk.  and  dil&rs  slightly  from 
the  records  at  Sitka.  It  is  here  given  in  extens^^as  indicating  to  onr  fishermen 
and  traders  where  labor  can  be  procured.    It  is  compiled  for  the  year  18G7. 


On  Unalaska  Island : 
In  tho  Ilionliouk  settlement 

Makusliinski  village 

Kiishu-gliiu-ski  village 

Tclieruofski  village 

Setshekinski  village 

Imagwinski  village 

Making  a  total  of  ,'>70  souIh  on  Unalaska  Island 
On  Uiurka  Island 

Akoii 


Ics. 

Feniali!s. 

153 

156 

23 

26 

;;f. 

3,3 

33 

29 

21 

28 

17 

15 

4:< 

42 

r)0 

4<J 

52  ALASKA  COAf  1  TILOT. 

Populnthn  of  the  hlnwh  and  raUeys  of  the  UnalniiJca  and  TJngn  dintrkU—QonimwA. 


On  A  vataiiok  InIuiuI 

ridiilna 

Sviii-iioy 

Uniimk 

Making  u  total  population  of  Unuhwka  district  905. 

liNliA   DIKTItlCT. 

On  I  'nj;a  Inland 

KoroviiiNki 

AsccoHion 

rniniak ■ 

Pcninrnda  Alaska 

In  ravloCski  village 

Ik'lkdfski  villa);i) 

Morjlu'ski  village 

Making  a  total  i)opulation  of  tlio  Unga  district  MS. 

On  St.  I'aiil  Island 

St.  Qoorgo  Island 

Making  a  total  jiopulation,  under  the  charge  of  the  priest  of  Unalaska,  of 

l,iH)H  souls. 


MnlPB. 


Feinnles. 


33 
31 

13 

00 


23 

22 

9 

51 


80 

84 

20 

12 

11 

15 

28 

29 

19 

21 

f)!> 

103 

33 

38 

156 

l.'iO 

C4 

75 

Upon  the  islaiuls  of  Kadiak  and  Afognak  there  are  of  Ru.ssiati8,  .50  males ;  of 
Creoles,  adult  n»ale.s,  200,  diildren,  240;  adult  females,  21(i,  children,  196;  of 
Aleutes,  adult  males,  02S,  children,  .'$20  ;  adult  females,  i'iOO,  children,  324 ;  mak- 
ing a  total  of  2,400.  The  Kolo.shiau  colony  at  St.  Paul,  formed  of  redeemed  slaves 
of  Sitka,  is  iu)t  enumerated;  judging  from  the  number  of  houses  they  probably 
number  sixty  people. 

On  Ala.ska  Peninsula,  opposite  Kadiak,  there  are  of  Aliaskans,  439  adult 
males  and  311  children  ;  of  adult  females,  422,  and  2G1  children  ;  making  a  total 
of  1,433. 

The  Indians  about  the  entrance  to  Cook's  Inlet,  and  round  to  Copper  Eiver, 
number  223  adult  males,  and  \~A  children  ;  225  adult  females,  and  113  children. 

The  Indians  in  the  northern  part  of  Cook's  Inlet  number  324  adult  males,  and 
107  children  ;  ,303  adult  females,  and  203  children. 

The  Aleutes  are  very  distinct  in  their  looks,  manners,  hiTiguage,  and  customs 
from  all  the  otlier  Indians  of  the  Northwest,  and  many  of  tliem  bear  a  close  re- 
semblance to  the  less  marked  of  the  Japanese,  so  much  so  that  the  question  at 
once  arises  whether  this  people  has  not  been  directly  derived  from  castaway  or 
.shipwrecked  inhabitants  of  Japan,  carried  thither  by  the  Kamtschatka  branch  of 
the  great  Japanese  stream;  but  it  is  not  our  province  to  investigate  the  problem 
in  this  place.  They  are  a  (piiet,  patient  people,  gifted  with  a  great  deal  of  ingenu- 
ity, and  always  trusted  implicitly  by  tliC  Russians.    The  priest  of  the  TJnalaska 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


53 


district  is  an  Aleut,  and  a  man  of  moro  than  ordinary  natural  ability  and  taate. 
Tlio  surgtH)n  of  the  company  service  at  Iliouliouk,  now  the  Coast  Survoy  tidal 
observer,  is  also  a  full-blooded  native,  who  has  a<'(|uitted  hinisc^lf  creditably  in  his 
observations.  Many  of  the  block-houses  of  the  Russian  Company  are  constructed 
by  the  Aleutes;  aiul  the  church  at  Iliouliouk  is  a  piod  specinu'u  of  their  workman- 
ship 5  even  the  capitals  of  the  interior  wooden  cohunns  were  carved  by  them  with 
rude  means.  They  make  skillful  mechanics,  and  the  principal  mechanician  and  in- 
stnunent-repairer  at  Sitka  is  an  Aleut,  who  early  displayed  talent,  and  was  sent  at 
the  company's  expense  to  St.  Petersburg,  where  he  learned  the  business  of  an  op 
tician.  His  workmanship  exhibits  talent  that  needed  a  large  flehl  to  develop. 
This  man's  wife,  a  full-blooded  Indian,  and  their  daughter,  attended  by  conunand 
the  ball  given  to  the  United  States  officers  by  the  Prince  and  Princess  Jlaksutoff, 
during  our  stay  at  Sitka.  The  thirty-eight  charts  of  Tebt'ukoflf's  atlas  were  drawn 
and  engraved  upon  copper  by  a  lialfbreed  Aleut  named  Kadin. 

The  bidarkas  or  skin  canoes  of  the  Aleutes,  constructed  for  one,  two  or  three 
persons,  are  tino  specimens  of  ingenuity  and  form;  the  light  frame  is  constructed 
of  wood,  where  the  article  is  so  scarce  that  it  must  be  brought  from  Kndiak  or 
sought  for  on  the  beaches.  In  the  management  of  these  canoes  they  display 
cool  courage  and  thorough  knowledge  of  their  capabilities.  In  the  early  days  of 
the  first  sea-otter  hunters,  they  made  coast  voyages  of  a  thousand  to  fifteen  hun- 
dred miles  with  them,  traveling  from  Unalaska  as  far  as  Sitka  Sound.  Vancou- 
ver found  seven  hundred  of  these  canoes,  with  fifteen  hundred  natives  of  Unalaska 
and  Kadiak,  as  far  eastward  as  Behring  Bay.  Baranoff  took  six  hundred  of  these 
canoes  and  one  thousand  men  to  Sitka  in  1804.  As  models  they  are  not  excelled 
by  any  of  those  seen  on  the  Pacific  coast ;  and  as  simple  mechaiiical  consti  actions, 
they  are  vastly  superior  to  any  southward. 

Their  large  skin  boats,  baid.irs,  capable  of  carrying  from  forty  to  sixty  per- 
sons, were  used  in  triuling  between  distant  I^'lands  as  far  as  r>t.  Pan)  ami  St. 
George,  when  the  llusfiians  first  reached  the  couul^vy.  They  are  still  in  use,  and 
were  employed  at  Ulakhta  harbor  to  coal  the  stv^amer. 

The  Aleutes  are  very  ingenious  in  their  tn  ps  for  catching  the  smaller  fur- 
bearing  animals,  very  neat  in  their  spears,  rsalrus  larbs,  and  sinew  twine,  and 
apt  in  adopting  the  simplest  means  to  obtain  their  dnds.  We  obtained  a  speiii- 
men  of  their  application  of  the  cam  in  so  trifling  an  article  as  a  clasp  for  holding 
the  edge  of  any  fabric  which  they  are  sewing.  They  soon  become  very  handy 
with  the  use  of  ordinary  tools,  do  good  blacksmith  work,  use  the  lathe,  &c.;  but, 
untbrtunately,  have  had  few  incentives  to  continued  industry  and  improvement. 
The  great  number  of  officially  recognized  holidays  during  the  year — eighty -six 
besides  Sundays — has  a  very  bad  effi?ct  upon  their  industry,  and  tends  to  keep 
them  in  close  acquaintance  with  poverty.  In  fact,  the  want  of  incentive  for  in- 
dustry is  the  great  drawback  to  development  in  general  on  this  coast,  and  would 
appear  to  have  been  the  unexpressed  but  inevitable  policy  of  the  Itussian-Aj^ieri- 
can  Company. 


54 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


Ill  carviiif,'  fl},niros  from  walrus  tiisks,  or  tlio  tiiskH  of  the  fossil  maiiiinotli 
fouml  <»ii  Ivotzt'ltiif  Sound  tin-  Alt'iitcs  display  patience,  and  in  many  eases  eoiisid- 
eral>ie  in^jenuitj,  eonstrnetinj,'  out  itf  walrus  tusk  small  litfuros  of  liiuiters,  rocks, 
seal  and  flsli,  rejtresentiiiK  the  practice  of  seal-huntiiitf,  making  mimic  representii- 
tioi.  of  their  danciii;j  and  musical  entertainments,  &c,,  &c. 

Jn  hunting  the  sea-otter  aiul  seals  they  exliibit  their  tenacity  of  purpose  by 
\vatc!ii;:r  for  days  at  a  time  rather  tiian  lose  the  object  of  their  pursuit.  TIum 
do  not  use  'he  bow  and  arrow,  but  the  small  ivory-headed  spear,  thrown  with  the 
aid  of  a  hand-board,  and  tiieir  exhibitions  of  skill  proved  their  exi)ertness  and 
luoliciency.  Most  of  the  crews  of  the  Russian  Company's  vessels  are  <'()mposed 
of  Aleutes,  but  they  do  not  make  the  hardy  sailor  that  the  European  or  American 
does. 

Another  pe(udiarity  w(i  noticed  in  then-  favor  at  Unalaska:  whenever  a 
woman  was  one  of  two  oi'  thnse  persons  in  a  bidarka,  she  was  not  compelled  to 
use  the  padiUe,  as  we  have  heretofore  invariably  seen  on  the  Pacific  coast. 

Tlie  women  are  v(ny  ingenious  in  nuiking  a  great  variety  of  stitches  in  tie  'r 
sewing,  and  those  of  Unalaska  have  always  been  noted  for  skill  in  and  the  beauty 
of  their  sewing.  • 

No  miu'der  has  been  committed  among  the  Aleutes  for  the  last  fifty-two  years, 
and  when  the  last  occurred  the  whole  race  was  horror-struck. 

Of  the  Ivoloshes,  of  t\u'  Alexander  Archipelago,  we  have  seen  comparatively 
little.  They  have  forty  large  houses  outside  the  stockade  at  Sitka,  averaging 
thirty  feet  front  by  fifty  deep  and  twenty  in  height,  constructed  mostly  of  boards 
from  two  to  four  feet  wide,  which  they  make  from  the  spruce  and  cedar.  Enor- 
mous posts  ami  beams  form  the  franu^,  and  they  are  roofed  with  Itoards  similar 
to  the  sides,  but  have  no  chimneys,  only  an  oi)ening  in  the  roof  for  the  exit  of 
smoke.  Some  of  them  have  pretensions  to  comfort  and  cleanliness  inside,  hav- 
ing well-scrubbed  boards  laid  for  a  floor,  round  the  center  space  of  six  or  seven 
feet  square,  Avhich  is  filled  in  with  pebbles  and  nsed  as  the  fireplace.  Their 
canoes,  hollowed  from  the  trunks  of  trees,  display  much  less  ingenuity  and  grace 
than  those  of  the  Chinooks  of  the  Columbia  river,  or  the  Clallams  of  the  Strait 
of  Fuca  anil  Admiralty  Inlet.  They  have  always  been  a  fighting  race,  attacking 
the  early  traders  and  discoverers  whenever  they  could  do  so  at  an  advantage. 
They  attacked  A'ancouver's  boats  upon  several  occasions,  and  in  1798  attacked 
and  destroyed  the  first  settlement  of  Sitka,  a  few  miles  westward  of  the  present 
location.  In  1804  they  had  a  stoekatled  village  and  fort  at  the  present  site  of 
Sitka,  with  several  four  and  six-pounders  worked  by  American  traders,  and  sus- 
tained an  attack  from  the  Neva  nnder  Lisiansky.  The  error  in  all  the  past  policy 
of  treating  Mitli  them  has  been  to  acknowledge  the  importance  and  power  of  their 
chiefs,  so  as  to  secure  their  trade  in  furs  from  rival  traders.  This  error  has  been 
Tontiinied  to  the  present  day,  and  upon  the  slightest  opiwrtunity,  or  for  fiuuied 
."-light,  they  assume  immense  airs,  swagger  with  cool  insolence,  and  threaten  war. 
The  practice  of  the  Kussiau- American  Company  of  selling  to  them  certain  quan- 


AFiAHKA  COAST  PILOT. 


55 


titioH  of  nun  liiis  traiiHiiiittctl  !o  our  {{ovorniiuMit  a  lofjacy  progiumt  willi  iiiiiny 
evils.  Till' ptdicy  of  tnuliiitf  (iicuriiis,  powder,  aiul  hall  to  tiu-ni  for  ti'iii|ioiiny 
gain  ill  tiiulo  lias  assisted  in  dejieiiemtiii},'  the  laco  and  etVeetivlly  «lcstroyed  tlieir 
liatiiial  wealth,  the  sea-otter. 

The  prohleni  to  Iw,  solved  is  a  peculiar  one,  and  it  wonld  h(>  out  of  jilace  to 
make  suKKCstions  as  to  tlui  hest.poliey  to  be  pursued  in  treatiiif;-  tlieni,  especially 
as  tha  present  luilitary  governor,  Major  (Jeneral  ,1.  ('.  Davis,  eonihines  the  reiiui- 
sites  for  success  in  iuaiia{j;iiig  and  controlling,'  them,  altliou«:h  his  policy  must  suf- 
fer much  derangement  by  the  illicit  introdiuitiou  of  spirituous  liquors,  so  readily 
and  secretly  effected  through  the  hundreds  of  harbors  and  channels  of  this  archi- 
pelago, esjiecially  as  the  Indians,  from  a  love  of  rum,  assist  in  warning  and  hiding 
the  smugglers.  Uiiiforin  kindness,  strict  justice,  prompt  decision,  and  rigid  exe- 
cution of  purpose  are  the  corner-stones  of  any  policy  by  which  they  can  bo 
humanely  governed. 

As  traders  they  are  shrewd,  long  in  deciding,  exacting  presents  after  a  bar- 
gain is  made,  and  do  not  hesitate  to  break  any  contract.  On  the  Stikine  lliver 
they  caused  some  annoyance  to  the  early  miners,  but  of  late  they  have  not  proved 
troublesome,  especially  since  the  death  of  two  prominent  liostile  chiefs.  The 
Indians  from  the  neighborhood  of  Kake  are  the  same  that  sent  a  canoe-load  of 
fighting  men,  about  the  year  1850,  all  the  way  from  the  Clarence  Strait  to  Wli  id- 
bey  Island,  in  Washington  Territory,  to  behead  ex-collector  of  customs,  ICbcy,  in 
retaliation  for  the  killing  of  one  of  their  chief  men  when  the  United  States 
steamer  Massachusetts  opened  her  batteries  on  the  temporary  encampment  of 
Stikine  or  Kake  Indians  on  the  saiul  point  opposite  the  saw-mills  of  Port  (iambic, 
where  the  men  were  employed  as  laborers. 

Two  or  three  years  since  some  of  the  sub-tribes,  twenty  or  thirty  miles  west 
of  the  Stikine,  captured  the  English  trading  schooner  Koyal  Charlie,  murdered  her 
crew,  and  plundered  and  scuttled  the  vessel.  In  May,  18(52,  between  two  hundred 
and  fifty  and  three  hundred  of  the  Indians  on  the  west  side  of  Chatham  Strait, 
and  about  twenty-live  miles  north  of  Cross  Sound,  or  ley  Strait,  seized  the  cap- 
tain and  chief  trader  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company's  steamer  Laboiiclierct,  of  seven 
hundred  tons,  on  the  quarter-deck,  and  taking  possession  of  the  vessel  drove  the 
crew  forward.  But  parleying  took  place,  and  the  crew  luuir.g  a  large  g'lu  trained 
aft,  agreed  to  fire  oft'  their  rifles,  the  Indians  afterwards  doing  the  same,  and 
finally  leaving  the  vessel,  which  at  night  quietly  steamed  away  and  was  afraid  to 
return  for  a  year.  It  is  but  just  to  the  Indian  chiefs  to  say  that  when  the  vessel 
returned  they  covered  her  deck  with  fine  sea-otter  and  other  skins  as  a  present  to 
the  captain  and  trader  and  a  token  of  peace.  One  or  two  other  instances  of 
attack  upon  small  traders  have  been  brought  to  my  notice,  but  enough  has  been 
stated  to  show  th.it  these  Indians  must  be  treated  with  lirmness. 

The  commercial  rivalry  that  has  existed  between  the  traders  of  the  Russian- 
American  Company  and  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  which  held  a  trading  lease  of 
part  of  the  Kussian  sea-bound  territory,  has  tended  to  keep  ali\e  and  engender 


5(5 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


excited  frolinjrs  on  the  pjut  of  the  Indians.  Illicit  traders,  with  whisky  in  their 
ciirj^o,  will  hcij^liton  all  the  bad  i>assi()ns  of  the  rnv  Telu'ikott"  says  the  Kolo- 
slics  are  treaclicrDus,  iiroud,  and  fond  of  fjain,  but  tiuit  the  first  (inality  has  been 
gradually  controlled  since  the  introduction  of  steamers  in  the  fur  trade,  the 
Indians  acknow.'  dging  that  these  vessels  can  find  them  out  promptly  and  punish 
them. 

The  natives  inhabiting  the  coast  between  Behring  Bay  and  Prince  William 
Soiind  are  called  (Jgalcnse:  llicy  are  not  numerous,  reckoning  only  t»bout  thirteen 
hunilred  souls,  and  living  upon  iish  and  the  products  of  the  soil  and  trade. 

The  Coast  Indian.;  on  the  southwestern  part  of  the  Alexander  Archipelago 
are  ITydahs,  air^  belong  to  the  nation  that  occupies  the  Queen  Charlotte  Islaiuls. 
Prom  Portland  Canal  southward  towards  \ancou\er  Island,  along  the  main  and 
the  bordering  aichijielago,  the  Chimshyan  nation  holds  the  country  nearly  to 
Millbank  Sound,  where  the  Bellbellas  comrucnce  and  continue  down  Johnstone 
Strait. 

Of  (he  characteristics  of  the  natives  of  Prince  William  Sound,  Cook's  Inlet, 
ami  Alaska  Peniusnla,  we  have  no  reetuit  information.  They  doubtless  have 
<!hanged  in  nuiny  respi  ts  sinct;  the  fur  trading  has  given  them  means  of  clothing 
and  lu.'vury  to  which  none  of  them  are  averse. 

THE  COAST  OF  ALASKA — GEJJEEAL  DESCIUI'TION. 

The  Pacific  coast  of  Alaska  commences  at  the  southM^ard,  in  latitude  549  40', 
forming  the  north  shores  of  Dixon  Sound,  and  sweeps  in  a  long,  regular  curve  to 
the  northward  ami  westward  for  Ave  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  to  the  vicinity  of 
the  entrance  of  Prince  William  Sound,  and  thence  seven  hundred  and  twenty-five 
miles  southward  and  westward  to  the  extremity  of  Alaska  I'eninsula,  where  the 
line  of  islands  generally  known  as  the  Aleutians  Ktretches  towards  the  coast  of 
KamtsehavUa  in  a  long  curve,  Avith  the  convexity  to  the  souih. 

The  highest  latitude  of  the  great  bend  of  the  main  coast  line  north  of  Sitka 
is  nOA'^  and  h»ngitude  ItoP  at  Controller  P>;.y;  and  the  western  and  southern 
point  of  Alaska  Peninsula  is  in  latitude  55"  and  longitude  10;$^,  where  it  is 
separated  by  the  impassable  Strait  of  Isanotsky  from  the  extensive  but  nearly 
snow-clad  island  of  T''iiimak,  marked  with  great  volcanic  peaks  covered  with 
eternal  snow. 

Prom  Isiinotsky  Strait  the  Al,  utians  sweep  in  a  very  regular  curve  to  the 
Hoiitii^vard  and  we.-.t\va(d  for  seven  hundred  aud  fifty  miles,  reaching  the  latitude 
of  5U"  in  longitude  18(1°,  and  thence  northward  and  westward  three  hundred  and 
twenty-flve  miles  towards  Behring  Island,  in  55°  of  latitude  and  195°  of  longi- 
tude; but  Attou,  the  westtin  of  the  Aleutians,  and  (Copper  Island,  Just  east  of 
iJcbriiig  Island,  are  separated  by  a  strait  two  hundred  miles  wide,  through  the 
niiddlf  of  wliiili  the  boundary  line  of  the  treaty  passes. 

Tlie  Altaitiar.  Islands  are  the  summits  of  the  Alaskan  range  which  sweeps 
along  the  American  coast  from  the  southward  and  eastward,  thence  round  the 


I 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT, 


57 


hoad  of  Triiice  William  Souml  and  Cook's  lulet,  and  domi  the  Alaska  Peninsula. 
The  i)eninsiila  and  islands  arc  marked  by  forty  or  iifty  volcanoes  in  activity,  and 
reaching  elevr  oious  as  great  as  twelve  thousand  feet  on  the  west  shores  of  Cook's 
Inlet,  eight  thousand  nine  hundred  and  flfty-three  feet  on  Cnimak,  five  tliousand 
six  hundred  and  ninety-one  on  Unalaska,  four  thousand  eight  hundred  and  Iifty- 
two  on  Atka,  six  thousand  nine  hundred  and  seventy-five  on  Tanaga,  three  thou- 
sand seven  hundred  on  Kryska,  and  three  thousand  eighty-four  on  Attoii, 

Norih  of  the  peninsula  of  Alaska  the  coast  has  a  general  direction  northward 
to  latitude  (iO^  in  the  Arctic  Sea,  indented  by  four  large  bays  or  sounds,  respect- 
ively named  JJristol,  Kouskocjuim,  Norton,  and  Kotzebue;  and  receiving  among 
others  the  great  river  Youkou,  having  its  sources  about  L%o  west  longitude  in 
British  America, 

The  extensive  sheet  of  water  north  of  the  Aleutians  to  Behring  Strait,  in 
latitude  G^jp,  and  between  the  American  and  Asiatic  continents,  is  known  as 
Behring  Sea,  and,  so  far  as  .-"junded,  consists  of  very  extensive  subnuirine 
lev'.'ls  of  remarkable  exeuness  of  surface  at  a  very  small  <lepth.  It  is  nuukcd  by 
several  large  islands,  upon  two  of  which,  St.  Paul  and  St.  George,  are  located 
Enssiiiu  factories. 

Ott"  the  southeastern  shore  of  the  Alaska  Peninsula  lies  the  large  island  of 
Kadiak,  which  has  numerous  adjacent  islands  separated  by  n^irrow  and  navigable 
straits,  North  of  the  Kadiak  group,  and  f;.rming  part  of  the  eastern  shore  of  the 
Alaska  Peninsula,  is  Cook's  Iidet,  one  hundred  and  tifty-nine  miles  long  and  from 
Iifty  to  twenty  miles  iu  width,  penetrating  the  Territory  to  latitude  01°,  longitude 
150<^,  and  receixing  two  large  rivers  near  its  lu-.d. 

The  great  extent  of  water  lying  in  the  curve  of  tlio  coast  between  Dixon 
Sound  ami  the  south  part  of  the  Kadiak  (iron)*  has  been  named,  by  the  Sui)erin- 
tendent  of  the  Coast  Survey,  the  Gulf  of  xVlaska. 

From  Dixon  Sound,  in  u4o  10',  to  the  Chilkaht,  in  59°  14',  the  nmin  land  is 
guarded  by  a  vast  archipt  ago  of  veiy  large  islands,  most  of  tlu;m  having  high 
mountains  throughout,  and  all  covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  large  sprucje, 
hemlock,  and  cedar.  The  dinu'usions  of  this  asscjnbhige  of  islands  averages 
about  seventy-live  miles  cast  and  west,  and  two  hundred  and  sixty-live  miles 
north-northwest  and  south-southeast,  divided  by  numerous  navigable  passages, 
ou(!  of  which,  named  l)y  Vancouvt-r,  (Miatham  Strait,  stretches  in  a  straigiit  line 
one  hundred  and  ninety-five  miles  iu>arly  north-northwest  from  Cape  Oinmaney,  in 
latitude  50o  10',  to  the  mouth  of  the  Chilkaht,  in  latitude  59°  11',  with  an  average 
Avidth  of  seven  or  eight  miles,  and  great  depth  of  water.  This  great  strait  has 
numerous  anchorages  and  sumll  bays,  and  several  large  passages  connecting  it 
with  the  other  straits  to  the  eastward,  and  two  important  ones  with  tlu;  sea  to  tlie 
north  of  Sitka.  Of  the  iatler,  one  passes  through  IVril  Strait  and  Salisbury 
Sound  to  the  Gulf  of  Alaska,  about  twenty  miles  north  of  Sitka  Sound,  with  a 
navigable  branch  to  Sitka,  and  the  second  through  Cross  Sound,  or  ley  Strait,  to 
.S 


58 


ALASKxY  COAST  PILOT. 


the  Gulf  of  Alaska,  about  seveiity-flve  miles  north  of  Sitlca  Sonnd.  The  north 
sliore  of  Cross  Souiid  is  the  southern  part  of  the  i)eninsnla  of  the  mainland  lying 
between  Chatham  Strait  ami  the  (iulf  of  Alaska,  and  the  termination  of  the 
fjroat  niiiye  of  coast  mountains  that  embraces  ilouuts  St.  Elias,  Fairweather,  and 
Crillon. 

To  the  iibove  extensive  archipelago,  embra(!ing'  a  shore-Hue  of  nearly  eight 
thousand  statute  miles,  wo  have  applied  the  name  of  "Alexander  Archipc^lago,"  in 
honor  of  the  Enii)eror  of  Russia. 

From  Icy  Strait  the  coast  is  very  slightly  indented  by  bays  up  to  the  extreme 
northern  part  of  the  Gulf  of  Alaska,  in  longitude  111'°.  Here  the  extensive  area 
of  Avater,  islands,  and  peninsulas,  known  as  rrince  William  Sound,  stretches 
inland  to  the  base  of  the  great  mountains  for  sixty  miles,  with  a  width  of  nearly 
the  same  distance. 

One  hundred  miles  westward  of  that  sound  is  Cook's  Iidet,  and  the  ])eninsula 
lying  bet'..eeii  them  is  denominated  the  Kenai  Peninsula. 

aENEUAL  APPEAKANXE  OF  THE  COAST. 


The  sea-coast  of  the  Alexander  Archipelago  is  formed  of  very  irregular 
outline  on  account  of  the  lunmrous  bays,  straits,  and  islands.  The  south  coast, 
facing  upon  Dixon  Sound,  and  extending  eighty  miles  from  the  mouth  of  Port- 
laud  Canal  to  Cape  Kygani,  exhibits  headland,  s'  ;re,  and  mountains  covered 
M  itli  Sitka  spruce  and  yellow  cedar  to  their  summits.  The  nu)untains  attain  an 
eli'vation  of  two  or  thiee  thousand  feet,  with  no  valleys  for  cultivation  between 
them.     The  same  description  ap])lies  to  the  coast  from  Kygani  to  Icy  Strait. 

It  is  remarkable  that  outside  the  sea-coast  line  of  this  arclii]telago  but  two 
islands  are  laid  down,  both  being  small,  and  t-^n  to  fifteen  miles  off  the  island  of 
Prince  of  Wales.  The  same  absence  of  coast  islands  Mcstward  of  Icy  Strait  is 
remarked  as  far  as  the  eastern  mouth  of  Coi)per  River,  in  longitude  144:0,  being  a 
distance  of  five  hundred  miles  of  coast  from  Kygiini. 

AVcstward  of  ley  Strait  the  coast  mountain  range  attains  an  elevation  o^ 
about  eight  or  nim>  thousand  feet,  covered  in  most  part  with  perpetual  snow; 
with  some  magnificent  siu)w  peaks  reaching  the  great  height  of  nearly  fifteen 
thousand  feet,  and  freciuently  seen  at  a  distance  of  over  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  at  sea. 

The  imnuHliate  sea-coast  west  of  Letuya  Bay  or  Port  Franyais,  thirty-two 
miles  northwestward  from  ley  Strait  Sound,  to  Prince  William  Souml,  is  compara- 
tively low  wooded  ground,  but  (ilose  backed  by  icy-faced  steeps  that  como  down 
from  the  high  mountain  range,  and,  as  at  the  head  of  Behring  Bay  and  Icy  Bay, 
fre(pu'ntly  reaching  the  coast  line. 

A  great  part  of  the  innnediate  shores  of  Prince  A\'illiam  Sound  is  low,  a',  are 
most  of  the  projecting  arms  and  sonu' of  the  islands  on  tlu^  western  sidi.  The 
extrctne  northwestern  arm  of  this  sound  stretches  through  what  is  laid  down  on 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


59 


the  map  as  low  ground,  to  within  ten  miles  of  the  head  of  Tnvn-again  arm  of 
Cook's  Inlet. 

The  western  shores  of  Kenai  Peninsula  are  low  and  well  wooded,  but  rise  to 
bold  mountains  a  few  miles  baek.  Although  the  elevation  of  this  spur  or  penin- 
sula is  less  than  that  of  the  Mount  St.  Klias  range,  yet  it  is  sufficiently  great  to 
develo])  numerous  glaciers,  which  work  down  to  the  waters  of  the  sound  and  to 
the  heads  of  the  bays  on  the  southeast  coast.  A  very  large  one  exists  on  the  lake 
at  the  head  of  the  river  Kassilotf,  debouching  into  Cook's  Inlet  iibout  latitude 
COO  20'. 

The  peninsula  of  Alaska  appears  to  be  formed  by  a  continuation  of  the  Mount 
St.  Elias  range,  brokeu  or  deflected  at  Prince  William  Sound,  and  embraces  some 
very  high  and  volcanic  i)eaks.  The  southeast  shores  of  the  peninsula  are  gene- 
rally bold  and  rocky,  and  as  far  we.stward  as  abreast  of  the  islan<l  of  Kadiak  there 
is  timber  on  the  low  margin  of  the  coarst,  but  gradmilly  becoming  scarcer  to  the 
west  of  Kadiak,  when  it  ceases  altogetlior.  With  the  narrowing  of  the  peninsuhi 
many  bays  indent  its  shores  on  both  sides,  and  nuniennis  lakes,  connected  by 
small  streams,  exist  among  the  mountains.  The  northwest  coast  is  low  and 
sandy,  and  backed  by  a  narrow,  low  belt  of  land  covered  with  herbage.  For  the 
last  sixty  miles  to  \ho.  westward  the  peninsula  is  (roniparatively  low,  and  nearly 
divided  into  islands  by  deep  bays  indenting  its  shores. 

The  chaui  of  mountainous  islands  thence  westward  to  the  coast  of  Kam- 
tschatka  commences  with  the  high  and  extensive  one  called  Unimak,  having  near 
its  eastern  extremity  the  great  volcanic  peak  of  Shishaldin,  said  to  have  an  eleva- 
tion of  nearly  nine  tlionsand  feet.  Further  westward  tiio  islands  diminish  in 
extent  and  fveciuency,  yet  among  them  are  many  high  volcanit;  peaks.  The  cli- 
mate also  changes,  judging  from  the  appearance  of  the  snow  upon  the  high  range 
of  Uninuik  in  September,  when  there  was  no  snow  on  the  mountains  of  Unalaska, 
except  on  the  peak  of  IMakushin,  with  its  five  tlionsand  seven  hundred  feet  of  eh;- 
vati(m  and  small  glacier.  This  modification  of  climate  should  naturally  be 
expected  when  the  Marmer  waters  and  winds  of  the  Pacific  can  pass  fully  through 
the  numerous  straits.  West  of  Unalaska  we  should  expc^ct  a  colder  climate  from 
the  influence  of  the  Behring  Sea  current  flowing  south,  unless  more  than  counter- 
balanced by  the  Avarnu'r  south  win<1s  from  the  Pacific. 

Abreast  of  the  southeast  coast  of  the  peninsula  of  Alask'a,  fin'  one  hundred 
miles  from  its  extremity,  lie  numerous  large  an<l  high  islands,  extemling  as  far  oflF 
shore  as  sixty  miles,  and  reaching  the  latitude  of  54°  .'{(»'  in  longitude  1500 
Some  of  the  Pussian  navigators  inform  me  that  the  ])ositions  of  these  islands  are 
poorly  determined,  as  their  business  rarely  called  them  among  them. 

Broad  olf  the  southeast  coast  of  tlu'  ])eninsula,  towards  Cook's  Inlet,  and  sep- 
arated from  the  peninsula  by  the  Petries  or  Shelikoff  Strait,  twenty-five  to  thirty- 
five  miles  wide,  lies  the  large  and  important  island  of  Kadiak,  with  Spruce,  Afog-- 


1 
it 

h 


00 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


link,  iiiul  otliiT  isliiiids  to  the  northeastward,  and  the  Trinity  Islands  off  its 
soiitlnve.st  extremity. 

The  elevations  of  the  mountains  of  Kadiak  rise  probably  over  three  thousand 
feet,  as  some  were  tri<;()nr»metri('ally  measured  that  were  twenty-four  hundred  feet 
higli  (|uite  near  the  coast  of  Cliiniak  Jiay. 

Tills  island  and  its  a(;cessories  may  b(^  really  considered  a  prolongation  of  the 
j)eninsula  of  Kenai  parallel  with  the  peninsula  of  Alaska  and  the  Shelikoff  Strait, 
a  continuation  of  Cook's  Jnlet.  The  north  end  of  Afognak  Island  is  only  forty 
miles  from  tiie  south  end  of  Kenai  IVninsula,  with  a  cluster  of  high  barren  islands 
lying  between  them. 

That  extensive  banks  exist  well  out  to  sea,  off  the  south  and  southeast  coast 
of  Alaska,  Kadiak,  and  some  of  the  Aleutians,  there  can  remain  no  doubt,  from 
the  oltservations  of  the  old  navigators  aiul  the  determinations  made  upon  this 
e.v;  '.nlition.  Tiie  limit  of  that  otf  the  northeast  end  of  Kadiak,  discovered  by 
Portlock  in  17S(I,  has  been  extenih-d ;  and  an  important  lishing  bank,  situated  off 
the  Akntan  and  I'nimak  Straits,  heretofore  unknown,  has  been  sounded  upon, 
and  its  iH)sition  a]>proxiniately  determined,  in  very  thick  weather.  Soundings 
obtained  tliirty  miles  olf  tiie  .Sliuniagin  Islands  indicate  a  bank  in  that  vicinity. 
Other  banks,  freciuented  by  the  codfishing  vessels  from  San  F-ancisco  and  Victo- 
ria, exist  in  the  western  part  of  the  Gulf  of  Alaska  and  among  the  Shumagiu 
Islands. 

Off  the  south  shores  of  Unimak  and  Unalaska  rocky  islets  are  said  to  exist 
and  to  have  been  visited  by  Aleutes  in  pursuit  of  sea  otters. 

Of  tlie  waters  adjoining  the  (-oast  very  little  is  known  with  accuracy.  The 
currents  have  been  oidy  incidentally  determined;  the  surface  and  deep-sea  tem- 
peratures liave  not  been  investigated,  and  the  general  results  are  obtained  from 
the  i)ra('ticai  experience  or  opinions  of  navigators,  in  a  region  where  ths  oppor- 
tunities for  determining  a  vessel's  position  are  very  limited  indeed,  on  account  of 
the  large  percentage  of  thick  weatlier. 

From  tlie  navigators  of  tlie  liussian-Americau  Company  we  have  obtained 
much  valuable  infornmtion,  many  interesting  .acts  and  descriptions,  and  some 
mannscri])!  maps  and  tracings. 

In  cons;ib'ng  the  works  of  the  old  navigators  many  important  descriptions  of 
headlands,  bays,  &i'.,  lie  scattered  t'nrough  their  volumnious  pages;  and  in  the 
following  descri])tions  all  that  was  not  i  •  rsonally  observed  has  been  collated  from 
the  Old  navigat(Ms,  diseoven  is,  and  fur-traders,  or  obtained  directly  from  the  Rus- 
sian navigators,  and  TebenkotV's  di'scription  of  his  atlas. 

Coiisideiing  the  means  at  their  disposal,  and  the  special  objects  of  the  Ilns- 
siaii-Ainerican  Company,  they  have  added  very  much  to  our  stock  of  general 
geographical  knowledge,  and  the  archives  of  the  company  would  doubtless  reveal 
much  more.  In  matters  of  minute  detail  tiieir  surveys  are  detieient,  but  their 
genera!  results  are  good. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


61 


CUKUENTS   OF  THE  NOUTIT  rACIFIO. 

ThcNorth  Pacific  presents  a  peculiarly  striking  analogy  to  the  Xortli  Atlantic 
in  the  existence  of  a  great  warm  current,  which  sweeps  along  the  eastern  coast 
of  Asia  to  the  northeastward,  crosses  the  Pacific,  washes  the  northwest  coast  of 
America,  affects  the  climate  of  the  whole  coast,  and  gives  a  much  higher  tempera- 
ture along  the  seaboard  than  would  exist  under  normal  circumstances. 

The  Japanese  have  long  been  well  aware  of  this  great  current,  which  washes 
the  southeastern  shores  of  their  empire,  and  have  given  to  it  the  name  Kuro-Siwo, 
or  Black  Stream,  ft-om  its  deep  blue  color  when  compared  with  the  neighboring 
waters  of  the  Pacific.  It  has  been  noticed  by  nearly  all  tlie  old  navigators  and 
explorers,  and  a  systematic  series  of  observations  was  undertaicen  by  the  L'uited 
States  expedition  to  Japan  under  Commodore  Perry. 

This  singular  current,  with  the  water  at  an  average  maximum  temperature  of 
80° — being  that  of  ecpiatorial  waters — aft'ords  a  solution  to  the  fact  of  the  lioiiin 
Lslands,  in  the  latitude  of  -7J°,  having  an  exclusively  troi)ical  vegetation,  tlio 
cause  of  which  was  long  a  mystery  to  naturalists.  It  also  acctmnis  for  the  pro- 
ductiveness of  the  southern  islands  of  the  Jai)an  group  in  sugar  and  other  pro- 
ducts, usually  confined  to  intertropical  regions  and  to  the  successful  deyelopmeut 
of  the  silkworm  as  high  as  latitude  15°. 

The  results  of  observations,  (corroborated  by  the  fact  of  the  high  temperature 
above  stated,  show  very  satisfac  orily  that  tlie  Japan  stream  has  its  origin  in  tho 
great  northern  equatorial  current. 

This  great  northern  erpiatorial  current,  leaving  the  coast  of  Lower  California 
and  the  Gulf  of  California  between  the  latitudes  of  I'P  and  L'.^o,  s>veei)s  across 
tho  whole  Pacific,  with  its  axis  two  or  three  degrees  south  of  tlie  Sandwich  Islands, 
and  thence  continuing  on  the  parallel  of  I'P,  and  coming  gradually  northward 
until  it  passes  the  position  of  the  Ladrone  Islands,  in  latitude  17°,  and  longitude 
214°  west,  is  gradually  deflected  to  the  north  and  northeast,  along  the  Asiatic 
coast,  but  ai)parently  with  decreased  velocity ;  although  neecliey  siiys  that,  when 
between  the  south  eml  of  Formosa  and  the  island  of  iiotel  Tobago  Sima,  lying 
sixty  miles  eastward,  he  experienced  a  current  which  carried  the  vessel  n<u(h  'A'P 
west  twenty-six  miles  in  the  night,  or  two  and  a  half  miles  per  hour.  He  does  not 
state  the  temperature  of  the  water;  .and  several  leagues  oft'  the  Velo  Kete  rocks, 
situated  off  the  south  end  of  Formosa,  the  weather  being  nearly  calm,  the  vessel 
was  drawn  into  a  very  strong  current  rip,  ami  continued  in  it  several  hours,  dur- 
ing which  no  bottom  could  l»e  found  with  one  hundred  fathoms  of  line.  Fxperi- 
ineuts  with  a  buoy  gave  a  current  to  the  southeast  of  seven-eighths  of  a  mile  per 
hour,  but  he  doubts  the  accuracy  of  the  results.  The  water  was  much  agitatcid 
and  made  considerable  noise,  and  had  a  vessel  seen  it  or  heard  it  in  (he  night  she 
must  have  taken  it  for  breakers  and  put  about.  On  lieechey's  voyiige  from  the 
Sandwi(di  Islands  to  the  Ladrones  he  kept  outsi<le  the  northern  limit  of  the  grciit 
ecpmturial  stream,  and  exiierieuced  a  counter-current  to  the  eastward  of  nciirly 
seven  miles  per  day. 


62 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


At  Olio  Imndiod  1  1  twenty  leagues  eastward  of  Formosa  the  monsoon  cur- 
rent of  tlie  Ciiroliiic  Isl)  uds  runs  northward  and  then  northeast,  to  add  its  waters 
to  those  of  the  groat  .iiipan  stream. 

The  combined  Avaters  of  the  Caroline  and  equatorial  streams  are  thrown 
against  the  island  of  Formosa  in  latitude  22°  and  longitude  239°  west,*  thence 
delicctod  to  tlic  iiorthwaid  and  northeastward,  and  in  the  parallel  of  31°  strike 
the  sdiithern  (extremity  of  Japan,  and  pass  close  along  the  northeastern  coasts  of 
Niphon.  Of  the  south  and  east  point  of  Niphon,  in  latitude  35^,  longitude  220° 
west,  the  stroain  begins  to  spread,  and  by  the  time  it  roaches  latitude  38°  and 
longitude  210°,  it  has  lieen  divided  or  split  into  two  by  the  intrusion  of  the  cold 
polar  euiTont.  The  contact  of  the  cold  and  warm  waters  gives  rise  to  the  constant 
fogs  that  exist  in  this  region.  One  branch  of  the  stream,  called  the  Kaintschatka 
current,  moves  to  the  northeast  nearly  parallel  with  the  coast  of  Japan,  the  Kurile 
islanils,  and  the  coast  of  Kaintschatka,  its  axis  passing  Just  east  of  Copper 
Island,  in  latitude  5")°,  longitude  1!U°,  and  running  directly  for  liehring  Strait. 
Tlie  other  and  greater  branch  follows  the  parallel  of  35°  eastward,  being  detlocted 
a  degree  or  two  toward  the  south  in  longitude  180°  by  the  impinging  of  the  cold 
Eehriiig  Sea  enrrent,  running  southward  through  the  Fox  Islands;  but  in  longi- 
tude 170°  it  regains  its  latitiule,  and  finally  reaches  the  latitude  of  45°  to  50°,  in 
about  longitude  148°,  where  it  appears  to  again  divide.  The  main  body  of  the 
stream  strotehos  directly  towards  the  coast  of  America,  is  deflected  to  the  south- 
ward and  eastward,  runs  down  the  east  coast  of  Oregon  and  California,  and  finally 
sweeps  back  into  the  great  northern  equatorial  current.  The  existence  of  this 
current  is  well  demoustratod  by  the  wrecks  of  Japanese  Junks  upon  the  coast  of 
AVasliingtou  Territory  and  Oregon.  Many  years  ago,  upon  the  beach  south  of 
Point  Adams,  at  the  entrance  to  the  Columbia  lliver,  there  Avas  cast  away  a 
Chinese  or  Japanese  Junk,  with  many  hands  and  a  cargo  of  beeswax.  The  ship 
was  totally  lost,  but  the  crew  saved.  In  support  of  this  Indian  tradition  pieces  of 
this  wax,  coated  witii  sand  and  bleached  nearly  white,  are  occasionally  thrown 
njion  the  boacli  after  groat  storms.  Formerly  a  groat  deal  was  found,  but  now 
it  is  rarely  met  with.  In  18."»1  we  saw  many  pieces  of  it.  In  1833  a  Japanese 
junlc  was  wrecked  near  Cajje  Flattery,  of  which  accounts  can  be  found  in  Belcher's 
narrative  and  in  that  of  the  United  States  exploring  expedition. 

Kotzebiie  mentions  the  following  remarkable  case  in  his  "  Voyage  of  discov- 
ery into  the  South  Sea  and  IJehring  Straits"  in  181.5-M8. 

"Looking  over  Adams' t  Journal  I  ibund  the  following  notice:  'Brig  Forester, 
the  24th  IMarch,  181;"),  at  sea  near  the  coast  of  California,  in  latitude  32°  45'  north, 


*  It  is  11  curiiiiis  fuel,  liitliiito  iiiiiidti 1.  that  this  hititnih)  is  iionrly  that  (if  the  southern  cx- 

trpiiiity  i)t  I'liiiiila.  and  1(1(»  (lilVcrciit  in  hiiiKitudi' ;  ho  tlnit  this  cnrri'nt  and  the  Atlantic  (iulf 
Stream  riiinincnci'  tlii'iv  jiicat  Junnn'vs  (Viini  nlative  pDsitions  tlnit  art-  irniarkalile. 

tAI  lliat  time  ('a|)lain  Alixandcr  Adams  coniniandcd  tlic  Sandwich  Island  Inij;  of  war  For- 
I'stci',  I'diniiijv  nndi  r  icniMMMiid  111' (a|dain  ri;^j;iitl  when  she  was  iiinltT  I'njilisli  lohirs.  Shi^  had 
Imiii  a  I'linrli  inivatrrr  named  I.a  (iiande  (^nimlianle,  and  was  eaiitnred  l),v  the  Knj;li.sh  and  Mold 
to  London  mt'iehants.     Ailams  was  tlu'U  I'iKjiott's  seeoinl  otticer. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


63 


ami  longitude  12Cfi  57'  west;  (this  is  three  luuulred  and  fifty  miles  south,  73°  west 
from  Point  Concepcion.)  During  a  strong  wind  from  west-nortlnvest,  and  rainy 
weather,  we  descried  this  morning  at  six  o'clock  a  ship  at  a  small  distance,  the 
disorder  of  whose  sails  convinced  us  that  it  stood  in  need  of  assistance.  Wo 
inimediatelj'  directed  our  course  to  it,  and  recognized  the  vessel  in  distress  to  be  a 
Japanese,  which  had  lost  her  mast  and  rudder.  I  was  sent  by  the  captain  on 
board,  and  found  in  the  ship  only  three  dying  Japanese,  the  captain  and  two 
sailors.  I  instantly  had  the  unfortunate  men  carried  to  our  brig,  where  they  were 
perfectly  recovered  after  four  months'  careful  attendance.  We  learned  from  these 
people  that  they  came  from  the  port  of  Osaca,  in  Japan,  bound  to  another  com- 
mercial town,  but  had  been  surprised  immediately  after  their  departure  by  a  storm 
and  had  lost  their  mast  and  rudder.  They  had  been,  up  to  this  day,  a  sport  of  the 
waves  for  seventeen  mouths;  and  of  their  crew  of  live  and  thirty  men  only  three 
had  survived,  who  Avould  have  died  of  hunger.'  This  note  is  so  far  remarkable  as 
it  proves  that  the  currents  in  these  seas,  i.  e.,  north  of  the  tropics,  always  keep 
their  direction  from  west  to  east." 

Supposing  the  junk  to  have  kept  on  the  south  side  of  the  axis  of  the  great 
current,  and  to  have  been  carried  directly  down  the  American  coast  on  the  west- 
ern part  of  this  current,  it  must  have  traversed  five  thousand  tiiree  hundred  miles 
in  live  hundred  and  sixteen  days,  or  a  trifle  over  ten  mdes  per  day  for  that  whole 
period. 

Within  the  last  four  years  a  Japanese  junk  was  found  in  mid-ocean  by  the 
bark  Aukland,  and  the  crew  brought  to  San  Francisco.  These  wrecks  are  abund- 
ant evidence  of  the  force  and  direction  of  this  great  curreut,  in  conjunction  with 
the  prevniling  summer  winds. 

Of  the  northern  branch  of  this  great  stream,  flowing  towards  Alaska,  we  will 
speak  hereafter. 

The  Kamtschatka  current,  after  passing  through  Behring  Strait,  inclines 
towards  the  coast  of  America,  as  is  fully  proved  by  the  existence  of  drift-wood 
along  the  shores  and  in  the  waters  of  the  curreut,  while  little  or  none  is  found  on 
the  Asiatic  coast  or  in  the  waters  adjacent.  We  have  this  season  conversed  with 
whaling  captains  who  left  the  Arctic  as  late  as  October  12ih,  and  their  experience 
of  years  confirms  the  above  statement.* 

This  current  passes  through  the  Behring  Strait  with  a  velocity  ranging  from 
one  to  three  knots  per  hour.  Ir  is  hardly  probable  that  it  can  run  with  much 
greater  velocity,  as  the  whalers  can  generally  work  against  it  with  a  head  wind. 


*  Mon-oviT,  tho  intei-estiiiR  fact  may  here  bo  stated  that  there  has  rarely  been  »iieh  an  open 
Beason  iu  the  Arctic  as  that  just  pime.l.  Captain  Williams  went  as  far  westwar.l  as  188-,  and  had 
tlien  nothing  l)nt  open  sea  lu'fore  him.  Captain  Thomas  went  as  far  nortli  as  Ti^  55'.  From  botli 
we  have  many  faets  of  importance  in  regard  to  the  connection  of  I'lover  Island  with  \Vranf;.ll  Land 
bv  'i  low  flat  plain  str.'tcliinfr  novth-northwest  and  west-southwest  from  Tlover  Island.  This  idaiii 
was  covered  with  fjrass  in  AuKUst  and  Septemb.'r,  18(i7.  This  same  seas..n  Captain  Lon^  coasted, 
tlu^  south  shores  of  Wruufrell  Laud,  marked  by  mountains,  uud  a  volcano  over  two  thousand  lour 
hundred  ■feet  elevation. 


64 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


The  ice  that  sometimes  moves  southward  through  the  strait  is  not  fairly  attribu- 
table to  a  change  in  the  current,  but  to  the  fact  that  the  wanner  water  of  the 
Ivanitschatka  current  striking  the  American  coast  permits  the  ice  to  form  on  the 
siiores  northwest  of  East  Cape,  ami  even  to  overlap  the  cape.  A  heavy  ncu-th- 
west  wind  arising  will  break  ui)  this  iioiut  of  ice  cand  force  it  southward  against 
the  current.  This  Avinter  ice  capo  has  been  seen  thus  formed  by  the  llussiau 
navigators. 

Among  the  tangible  proofs  of  the  origin  and  existence  of  the  Kamtschatka 
current  are  the  following:  In  September,  ISOli,  a  Japanese  vessel  was  wrecked  on 
the  island  of  Attou.  She  had  been  driven  off  the  coast  of  Japan  two  or  three 
months  before  with  a  crew  of  twelve  men,  of  which  she  had  lost '  ine  before  going 
ashore,  and  had  thus  been  drifted  eighteen  hundred  miles  in  this  current,  at  an 
average  velocity  of  over  twenty  miles  per  day.  "Among  the  floating  bodies  which 
the  sea  drives  upon  the  shores  of  Copper  Island,  the  true  right  camphor  wood, 
and  another  sort  of  wood,  very  white,  soft,  and  sweet-scented,  are  occasionally 
found."    Kotzebue  found  Asiatic  Moods  among  the  Aleutes  of  IJnalaska. 

But  the  whole  of  the  waters  of  the  Kamtschatka  current  do  not  pass  through 
Behring  Strait.  Striking  against  the  south  shore  of  the  large  island  of  St.  Law- 
rence, part  of  the  waters  are  deflected  to  the  eastward,  southward,  and  finally 
westward  of  south,  casting  tlieir  f  iting  wood  on  the  American  coast  and  the  north 
shores  of  the  Aleutian  Islands,  .jeecthey  experienced  a  current  to  the  west,  when 
north  of  Unimak,  ecjual  to  three  miles  ])er  hour,  doubtless  influenced  in  part  by  the 
tidal  current  through  the  straits.  Ilussian  navigators  assure  us  that  when  passing 
south  of  the  Aleutians,  between  175°  and  185°  of  longitude,  they  encounter  a  cold 
current  from  the  northward,  bringing  with  it  masses  of  sea-weed,  doubtless  torn 
from  the  shores  of  the  islands.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  island  of  St.  Lawrence  the 
temperature  of  this  return  stream  is  47°;  north  of  the  Aleutians  it  is  also  47°; 
near  these  islands  and  south  of  them  it  is  49°,  southeast  of  them  51°. 

Between  the  Kamtschatka  current  and  the  Asiatic  coast  and  islands  is  a  cold 
polar  counter-current,  coming  from  the  Behring  Sea.  It  follows  the  coast  of 
Kamtschatka,  the  trend  of  the  Kurile  Islands,  gives  rise  to  the  currents  flowing 
west  into  the  south  part  of  the  Ochotsk  Sea,  and  strikes  the  northern  and  eastern 
l)art  of  tiie  coast  of  Japan.  -  . 

A  small  amount  of  the  water  of  this  current  passes  into  the  Japan  Sea 
through  the  Tsugar  Strait,  but  the  greater  part  keeps  along  the  east  coast  inside, 
and  probably  underrunning  the  great  Japan  stream,  the  northwestern  edge  of 
which  is  strongly  marked  by  a  sudden  depression  in  the  temi)erature  of  the  water, 
amounting  to  10°  and  I'Oo,  while  the  borders  of  the  stream  where  it  chafes  are 
marked  by  strong  current  rips,  often  resembliug  heavy  breakers  on  reefs  and 
shoals.  This  difference  of  the  thernnd  condition  of  the  waters  of  these  two  streams 
causes  harassing  ]»ri'valence  of  fogs. 

Kear  the  origin  of  the  great  Japan  current  the  stream  is  usually  confined 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


«;5 


between  the  islands  of  Formosa  and  Majioio-Sinia,  Avitli  a  width  of  one  limidred 
miles,  but  to  the  northward  of  the  latter  it  rapidly  expands  on  its  southern  limits 
and  reaches  the  Loo  Choo  and  ]5ouin  groui)s,  attainiuf;  a  width  to  tiu^  northward 
of  the  latter  of  five  hundred  miles.  Its  soutiiern  and  eastern  limit  is  not  distiiutly 
delined,  there  being  a  gradual  thermal  apitroximation  to  that  of  tlu'  air  and  water. 
The  velocity  of  the  stream  varies  much,  and  we  have  no  reliable  data  whatever  of 
its  velocity  towards  the  coast  of  America.*  Tiie  United  States  Japan  expedition 
determined  its  velocity  between  the  south  end  of  Formosa  and  the  straits  of 
Tsugar,  a  distance  of  nine  hundred  miles,  at  thirtj-five  to  forty  miles  per  day;  and 
upon  one  occasion,  off  tiic  Gulf  of  Yedo,  in  latitu<le  '.ii°,  its  maximum  strength 
■was  recorded  as  high  as  eighty  miles  per  day.  In  the  latitude  of  3rp,  at  seventy 
leagues  from  the  coast,  its  direction  is  east-northeast,  and  its  rate  forty-eight  miles 
per  day;  while  at  twenty -live  leagues  from  the  coast  in  the  same  latitude  it  is 
8eveuty-two  miles  per  day,  corroborating  the  above  maximum  velocity.  King  also 
assures  us  that  in  these  latitudes  he  found  it  running  at  the  rate  of  live  miles  per 
hour.  The  rate  and  direction  vary  with  the  season  as  well  as  the  distanctt  from 
the  coast.  In  ifovember  its  course  becomes  more  northerly,  and  in  July  more 
easterly. 

The  western  body  of  the  Behring  Sea  current  from  the  north  strikes  this 
great  stream  in  about  latitude  ',i{)°  and  longitude  -'00°  west,  and  splits  it,  l)ut  being 
too  feeble  to  overcome  it,  passes  beneath  it,  and  is  gradually  br(jught  to  the  sur- 
face upon  reaching  shoaler  water ;  while  the  Behring  current  combined  with  the 
returning  Gulf  of  Alaska  current  presses  against  the  northern  edge  of  the  great 
stream  from  longitude  in  105°  to  200°,  an<l  passes  beiu-ath  it.  We  have  thermal 
observations  in  proof  of  the  existence  of  a  cold  sub-stream  between  Florida  and 
the  Bahamas,  and  we  also  know  clearly  the  existence  of  "cold  walls"  working, 
as  it  were,  against  and  through  the  stream  of  the  Atlantic.  The  \>'hirls  and 
eddies  observed  in  the  middle  of  the  great  Ja])an  stream,  off  the  coast  of  .lapan, 
indicate  the  existence  of  a  similar  cold  sub-current ;  and  walls  of  cold  water  aro 
indicated  by  the  observations  of  the  United  States  expedition,  lieechey's  thermal 
observations  on  the  southern  edge  of  the  great  stream,  in  latitude  ',ir>°  and  longi- 
tude 194^0  west,  corroborate  these  indications,  for  he  found  the  temperature  of 
the  water  at  seven  hundred  and  sixty  fathoms  28*^  colder  than  at  the  surface ; 
and  two  days  later,  when  on  his  course  north  northwest  to  Fetropaulski,  in  the 
fork  between  the  Kamtschatka  arul  Japan  streams,  "the  tempeiature  at  one 
hiuulred  and  eighty  fathoms  Avas  as  cold  as  at  live  hundred  fathoms  in  the  above 
position;  and  also  that  it  was  20°  colder  at  three  hundred  ami  eighty  fathoms  in 
this  position  than  it  was  at  seven  hundred  and  sixty  fathoms  in  tlu>  above,"  Thus, 
at  three  hundred  and  eighty  fathoms  he  found  the  temperature  18°  colder  than 
the  surface  water  of  the  great  stream,  which  had  already  left  the  coast  of  Ja[)an 

*  III  the  vicinity  of  Siuiak  Island  aud  rci-f,  thoro  is  a  current  (Si'ptcnil)pr  15,  1865,)  of  a  knot 
and  a  half  an  lionr  to  the  north  and  east.     Surface  tomiuTaturn  '>('f. — VV.  If.  Pm.i,. 


66 


ALASKA  COAST  IMLOT, 


twelve  ImiMlroil  miles.  Of  couiNe,  nndcr  siich  tliennnl  conditions,  Upocliey  found 
liiinscif  eiivcloix'd  in  dense  and  confinuoiis  fo;;-.**  and  dri/zliiif,'  rains  all  the  way 
to  I'etntpanlski,  witii  the  exception  of  one  tlay  in  latitude  ."ioo. 

On  the  southern  edye  of  the  great  stream,  almost  idontieally  in  the  j)osition 
of  Heeehey,  Kotzebue  was  remarkably  iiiHuenoed  by  the  cold  current  which  had 
underrun  the  warm  stream  and  risen  to  the  surface.  In  latitude  .'iP  .'}',  lonj-itudo 
1040  S',  a  violent  current  carried  the  ship,  on  the  1st  of  April  1.S17,  thirty-six 
miles  .south  _'(P  west;  ami  on  the  L'd,  thirty-six  and  three  quarter  miles  south  18° 
east.  This  eurreut  was  accompaui(!d  with  a  hi;;h  sea  from  the  sonth,  and  the  tem- 
jjcrature  of  the  air  fell  from  8;50.8  to  04°."),  and  to  us  very  cold.  On  the  :Ul  of 
Ai)ril,  in  latitude  ;U3  1i7',  lonjiitude  lO.'P  47',  the  current  set  tlu^  vessel  south  81° 
west  thirty  four  miles.  Tin  was  a  faint  wind,  aiul  he  noticed  the  water  ripple 
on  tlu-  surface  of  the  sea,  caused  by  the  currents.  In  this  position  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  air  was  (>(»0;  of  the  surface  water  uSo..">,  and  at  a  depth  of  two 
hundred  and  fifty  fathoms  48o.5.  On  the  5th  of  April,  in  latitude  35°  35',  longi- 
tude 1010  4'J',  by  {-ood  ol)servatious,  the  current  had  carried  the  xcssel  in  two 
days  lifty-two  and  three-(piarters  miles  sonth  34°  west. 

In  the  fiist  positions  Beechey  and  Kotzebue  were  fourteen  hitndred  miles  east 
of  the  .Tai)an  coast,  ami  ten  hundred  and  fifty  miles  broad  off  the  Kurile  Islamls. 

While  there  is  no  doubt  whatever  that  the  greater  body  of  water  of  the  great 
Japan  stream  Hows  to  the  eastward  after  dividing  ott'  the  coast  of  Japan,  the  fact 
is  also  evident  from  the  decreased  velocity  of  the  Kamtschatka  current  off  the 
coast  of  that  peninsula,  where  Tessan  found  it,  in  the  latitude  of  Petro])anlski, 
running  at  a  rate  of  only  seven  to  ten  miles  per  day  in  an  east-northeast  and 
lutrthcast  direction.  The  observations  ui)on  the  western  limit  of  the  cold  Behring 
Sea  current  indicate,  also,  the  contracted  width  of  this  (uirrent.  On  t'.ic  contrary, 
the  eastern  and  main  branch  has,  in  the  longitiule  of  1G5<^  west,  a  maximinu 
breadth  of  20°  of  latitude  from  22°  to  43°.  On  the  southern  limit  the  tempera- 
ture is  78°,  or  four  degrees  above  that  of  the  great  ecpnitorial  current  returning 
from  the  ('alifornia  coast;  and  its  northern  limit  of  04°,  or  11°  to  13°  greater 
than  tlie  variable  currents  to  the  northward. 

The  passages  of  the  China  and  San  Francisco  steamers  will,  in  time,  afford 
us  means  of  determining  many  peculiarities  of  this  current. 

In  tlu!  vicinity  of  the  great  northern  curve  of  this  current,  about  longitude 
150°  and  latitude  44°,  all  navigators  have  found  drift-wood,  seal,  sea-otter,  land- 
birds,  and  many  indications  of  land.  We  have  collected  nniny  notices  of  this 
character,  ami  will  submit  them  to  you  in  a  separate  report.  Between  this  great 
bend  and  the  Sandwich  Islands  lies  what  is  called  Flienreus  whirlpool  or  eddy. 

Neither  the  great  stream  nor  any  part  of  it  is  laid  down  as  passing  as  far 
north  as  latitude  50°,  ami  hence  is  not  supposed  to  pass  into  the  Gulf  of 
Alaska ;  but  while  the  great  body  of  the  stream  sweeps  round  and  foUows  the 
direction  of  the  western  coast  of  America  to  the  Gulf  of  California,  a  branch 
continues  direct  towards  the  Alexander  Archipelago,  and,  striking  the  southern 


ALASKA  (JOAST  PILOT. 


67 


part  of  tliat  coast,  is  dcfloctcd  to  the  iiortlnvanl  and  Avostward,  and  follows  tlio 
trend  of  tlio  coast  round  tlio  (luif  of  Alaska  to  tlic  wostwanl,  and,  finally,  to  (lio 
south  westward.  Jt  is  this  Wiirni  Alaska  hranch  whieh  causes  the  hij;h  isothermal 
lino  that  exists  diroetly  upon  this  coast.  Tho  curront  to  tho  uorthwanl,  westward 
and  southwestward,  along  the  coast  of  the  (Julf  of  Alaska,  is  well  known  to  iiav 
iffators,  and  is  jrenerally  eon<'ede('  to  have  a  velocity  of  ten  to  twenty  miles  per 
day.  One  of  the  llnssian  navi^'iitors  informs  us  that  he  has  found  it  rnnnin;,'  at 
least  thirty-six  miles  per  day.  [J[Mn  our  trij)  from  Sitka  to  the  ramplona  rocks, 
on  a  straight  course,  wo  found  but  little  current  in  our  favor,  but  between  the 
Siiumagin  Islands  and  the  Sanualc  Lsland  and  reef  it  was  very  strong  to  the  south- 
ward along  the  coast.  If  the  position  of  the  reef  is  correcitly  laid  down,  we  expe- 
rienced ii  current  of  not  less  than  four  or  five  knots  ])er  hour,  between  eight 
o'clock  a.  m.  and  halfpast  twelve  p.m.,  on  the  4th  of  Septend)er  lH(i7.  Others 
Lave  expcriencHid  the  same  velocity,  which  is,  doubtless,  in  great  part  due  to  tidal 
currents  i)assing  through  the  straits  into  the  Eehring  Sea. 

Otf  the  east  shore  of  the  Kii  'iak  group,  on  th(>,  Portlock  bank,  we  experi- 
enced a  set  towards  the  southwest,  parallel  to  the  coast  of  Kadiak.  Tebcidiolf 
lays  down  a  current  in  the  same  direction.  It  is  this  returning  current  which 
adds  its  weight  to  the  current  from  the  Behring  Sea  to  press  against  the  northern 
edge  of  the  great  stream,  and  to  underrun  it. 

An  ex])loration  of  the  region  of  the  o(!ean  where  the  divide  takes  place  may 
develop  causes  for  the  division  of  the  great  stream  and  the  detlection  of  each  part. 

There  is  doubtless  an  eddy  between  the  southern  edge  of  this  Alaska  branch 
when  sweeping  westward  and  the  northern  edge  of  the  main  stream  running  east- 
ward; for  Lisiansky,  on  his  voyage  from  Kadiak  to  Sitka,  in  June,  ISO."),  which  he 
made  in  six  days,  to  within  a  few  miles  of  Mount  Kdgecumbc,  with  fair  winds,  had 
an  "easterly  current  which  had  pushed  him  forward  during  the  last  five  days, 
and  still  tlowed  in  tho  same  direction." 

AVe  have  been  thus  extended  in  our  investigations  upon  this  great  .Tiijianese 
stream  and  its  branches  that  its  etl'ects  ujjon  the  climate^  of  Alaska  may  Ik;  prop- 
erly understood,  and  also  its  effect  upon  the  <piestion  of  the  great  circle  route 
from  Sau  Francisco  to  China. 

GREAT  OIRCI.E  ROUTE  PROM   SAN  FllANCISCO  TO   .lArAN. 


These  currents,  their  etlects  ujion  the  weather,  ami  the  prevailing  westerly 

winds,  will,  in  the  absence  of  the   strongest   advantages,   decide   the   (]uestion 

against  the  great  circle  route  from  San  Francisco  to  Yokohama,  or  even  to  Ilako- 
dadi. 

The  local  and  very  variable  currents  about  the  Aleutians,  the  thick  weather, 
and  the  supposed  existence  of  islands  south  of  the  chain,  cond>ine  to  render  an 
approach  to  them  oxtremolj' hazardous ;  but,  with  tine  weather,  no  coast  alfords 
better  marked  outlines  and  landn.arks. 

A  vessel  making  the  great  circle  track  to  the  eastward  would  have  the  great 


68 


ALAHKA  COAST  PILOT,. 


Jiipiiii  stream  in  licr  t'n\or  to  iilwut  Intitmlo  -130,  longitude  L'04o  west,  or  iilxnit 
one  tliousiiml  lour  liiiiKlrcd  and  loity  iiiile.s;  then  the  cold  I'lcliiin;,'  Sen  eurreiit 
and  tlie  end  of  llie  Alaska  emreid  to  latitude  17°  and  longitude  l.")7o  west,  <»r  ono 
llionsanil  nine  linndred  and  eifility  miles;  finally  to  San  Francisco,  about  ouo 
thousand  ei},'ht  hundred  and  sixty  niilc8,  passing  through  the  great  bend  of  the 
•Fapan  stream  where  so  many  indications  of  land  have  been  recorded,  and  where 
the  weather  is  almost  invariably  thick  and  l)ad  in  summer,  aud  cold  anil  boister- 
ous in  winter.  On  this  track  the  summer  winds  would  generally  be  favorable, 
and,  with  good  weather,  it  woidd  bo  altogether  the  desirable  route,  but,  with 
thick,  foggy  weather  for  nearly  the  whole  of  this  distance,  undeternnned  velocity 
and  direction  of  the  currents  except  in  general  terms,  great  variability  of  climate 
to  passengers  and  cargo,  and  extra  hazard  and  risk  to  lil'e  and  shij),  sonu"  great 
aud  positive  advantage  over  all  these  must  exist  to  warrant  the  a(h»ption  of  it. 
The  westward  trip  would  have  heavy,  adverse  winds  nearly  the  whole  distance ; 
large  sea  and  adverse  currents  for  two-thirds  the  distance.  In  sucli  a  case  a  few 
days  extra  bad  weather  woidd  consunu;  the  vessel's  coul,  and  run  the  supply  short 
just  when  in  the  axis  of  the  main  stream. 

Tlie  greatest  inducement  for  adopting  the  great  circle  under  such  circum- 
stances would  be  the  discovery  of  <lei)osits  of  good  coal  anu)ng  the  Aleutian 
Islands,  or  within  a  reasonable  distance  of  the  harbor  nearest  the  great  circle 
route. 

The  comnuacial  advantages  of  the  steam  route  to  China  through  the  warmer 
and  more  eciuable  latitiules,  must  always  outweigh  any  merely  theoretical  and 
shorter  but  more  hazardous  route.  A  study  of  the  (nirrents,  winds,  and  weather 
on  the  lower  latitude  route,  will  load  to  the  coiu-lusion  that  is  being  solved  ju-aeti- 
cally.  From  the  south  end  of  .laitan  to  San  Francisco,  a  course  very  little  north 
of  a  direct  line  on  a  IMcreator  projection,  carries  a  vessel  across  the  great  Japan 
stream,  in  part  through  the  axis  of  the  nuiin  branch  tlowing  eastward  across  the 
northern  part  of  the  so-called  Flieui'cus  whirli)ool,  and  across  the  California 
stream,  with  favoi'able  or  light  winds  the  greater  ])art  of  the  distaiu-e.  In  return- 
ing, the  course  should  be  southward  of  the  direct  course,  taking  advantage  of  the 
California  stream  and  favorable  northwest  winds,  and  entering  the  ujiper  limit  of 
the  waters  moving  westward  to  the  longitude  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  to  form 
part  of  the  great  northern  equatorial  current,  thence  westward,  through  variable 
and  feeble  currents,  until  the  ui)por  limits  of  the  western  part  of  the  equatorial 
current  are  entered.  The  other  advantages  of  this  route  are  fine  weather  and  an 
equable  and  warm  tempenituro.  This  line  is  already  competing  for  the  passenger 
tra\el  and  highest  class  freight  between  France  and  England  and  China,  ria  San 
Francisco,  and  it  is  an  important  consideration  with  the  company  that  the  passen- 
gers shall  not  have  to  undergo  a  rapid  transitiitn  from  the  heat  of  the  tropics  to 
the  i)enetrating  fogs  of  the  North  Pacific. 

Should  good  coal  lie  develoi»ed  near  Sitka,  a  depot  for  the  comi)any  could  be 
readily  established  on   some  of  the  islands  near 


I>ri 


ip 


ALASKA  t'OAST  PILOT. 


OS) 


and  supplied  from  Alnska.  I?y  tukiiifj  advantage  of  the  oroan  cnrronta  and  f  lio 
jnoviiiliiif;'  nortliwcst  winds,  niucii  (inickcr  tinu-  could  ho  made  l>,v  the  cojil  slilps 
than  till'  distance  would  lead  us  to  suppose. 

Of  the  Huialler  and  local  currents  in  the  llehring  Son  and  aniouR  (he  Aleu- 
tians, it  is  hardly  necessary  to  enter  into  detail,  as  mention  of  them  will  l»c  made 
■when  describing  the  features  of  the  coast. 

THE  aUKAT  ARCIIU'ELACJO. 

From  tl:.i  head  of  Paget  Sound,  in  latitude  47°  0.'{',  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Chilkaht,  in  HO"  LV,  through  seven  hundred  and  Ihirty-two  miles  of  latitude, 
lies  th(^  vast  interior  liut^  of  navigation  une(pialle(l  iu  the  world  for  bold  shores, 
deep  waters,  nunu'rous  bays  and  harlxus,  bordered  every  mile  with  timber  of 
great  size  and  height.  The  smallest  craft  can  make  their  trading  trips  through 
these  waters  without  the  risk  of  a  sea  voyage ;  snudl  steandxmts  can  traverse 
them  and  llnd  fuel  at  every  point  of  the  twenty  thousand  miles  of  shore-line. 
The  frequency  of  i)assages  connecting  these  great  straits  and  sounds  with  th(< 
ocean,  renders  them  of  inestimable  vabu!  as  means  of  refuge  to  vessels  fearing 
or  suf}"ering  from  heavy  weather  at  sea.  Each  year's  examination  develops 
th(!ir  availability  and  teaches  us  the  characteristic  marks  by  whi(;h  they  are 
known. 

The  great  ocean  bulwarks  of  this  labyrinth  of  waters  are  the  mountainous 
islands  of  Vancouver,  Queen  Charlotte,  Prince  of  Wales,  BaranofV,  and  Ciiichagotf. 

These  waters  were  discovered  by  the  American  vessel  Washington,  that 
entered  by  the  Strait  of  Fuca,  In  48°  24',  and  left  them  by  Dixon  Sound,  r>4o  40'. 

Meares  examined  inanj-  of  tlu^  connecting  i>assages,  and  has  not  only  left  '"..s 
the  outline  record  of  his  work,  but  his  ai)pr(M',iatiou  of  their  importance  by  charac- 
terizing them  as  the  (hrai  Arrhipchino. 

Of  this  great  net-work  of  jtassages,  about  one-half  the  extent  iu  latitude  is 
part  of  British  Columbia — while  the  simthern  and  iKuthern  parts  belong  to 
the  ITnited  States.  The  southern  ])art,  between  47°  («'  and  4!P,  lias  been 
descril)ed  in  the  Calilbruia  Coast  Pilot,  and  the  i)assages  along  tiie  coast  of 
British  Columbia  have  bicn  described  iu  general  terms. 

The  northern  part  of  this  great  archipelago  has  been  named  the  Alexander 
Ai'chipelago,  and  will  be  described  in  its  regular  order. 


liKTAlLED  DKSC'UIPTION  OF  CAPES,  BAYS,   HARBOUS,   ISLANDS,  ETC. 

It  would  bo  almost  impossible,  Avithin  reasonable  limits,  to  give  a  detailed 
description  of  the  great  number  of  known  harbcu's  and  anchorages,  rocks,  islands, 
and  points,  that  abound  in  the  Alexander  A  '.iii)elago.  Indeed  so  numerous  are 
they  that  many  of  them  are  yet  unexidored  or  known  only  in  general  character- 
istics to  the  trader.  From  Toy  Strait  and  the  mouth  of  the  Chilkaht  to  the  head 
of  Paget  Sound,  this  great  labyrinth  of    ■  aters  stands  unecjualed  in  the  world 


AT.ASKA  COAST  VU.OT. 


for  safp  iHid  liohl  iiiliiiid  nii\  i^^atioii.  The  sclierries  of  Finland  ;\'u\  tlie  fiords  of 
!>^or\va.v  sink  into  insianilicancc  lieloro  tl)«>  f^roat  dimensions  of  lii^se  straits  and 
Nonnds.  liy  their  cxiiloratian  and  di'S('ri]>tion,  Yaneouvor  is  enfitlcd  to  indispu- 
tabh'  (!eh'l»rity.  A.  nnndicr  of  harbors  liave  been  partially  cxainined  and  prelimi- 
narily snrseyed  by  llie  old  navifiators  and  by  the  oflieers  of  the  Eussiau-American 
('()mi)any.  Many  of  these  have  been  published  in  detached  foiin  in  books  and 
maps  and  charts  of  travel,  but  no  iittempfc  was  math-  to  arranjje  them  in  any 
sort  of  order  until  Tebenkotf  undertook  to  a;j;f;re;;ate  the  labors  of  ^'aneouver, 
Lii  P<''rouse,  Kotzebue,  Heeehey,  and  others,  witii  the  nuinerotis  llnssiau  explora- 
tions, in  an  atlas  of  thirty  eijjht  eliarts  published  in  1818.  His  descriptive 
inomoir  does  not  till  the  requirements  of  a  directory  of  the  coast,  but  is  nior.', 
oe('U])ied  with  the  names  of  the  ollieers  who  made  certain  e\j)loriitions.  Many 
of  these  tentative  examinations  were  made  in  their  searches  for  new  fields  of 
tradie,  for  winter  haibors  for  the  wlialers  of  the  company,  and  also  to  instruct 
the  mates  in  such  duties,  aud  to  familiarize  them  with  tlie  diftercnt  jiarts  of  the 
coast. 

J5y  very  nniiK'rons  voyaj^es  and  systematic  reports,  eondiined  with  compara- 
tively recent  Enjilish  and  .1"  rench  exphu-ations,  the  Itussian-American  Company 
has  imjjrovetl  the  ;,'eneral  ,neo;>raphical  positi<His  of  i)rominent  points  and  harbors 
alonf>'  th(>  whole  ( oast  and  on  the  line  of  the  Aleutians,  although  a  vast  amount 
of  ^'eneral,  and  especially  of  de'ailed  labor,  is  yet  to  be  accomidished.  Jn  fact 
th»'re  is  iu>t  even  a  small  nmp  ot  any  i)art  of  the  coast,  or  of  any  harlior,  which 
can  be  (M)unted  as  worth  nun'c  than  a  reconnoissance  or  prelimimiry  survey.  The 
shortness  of  the  working  seas(m  and  its  uiu'eitainty,  cond)ined  ^vith  the  ])ara- 
mount  obJe<'t  of  the  fur  trade,  accounts  ftn-  the  lack  of  geograidiical  knowledge  of 
this  coast,  and  in  consideration  of  Tiu.-e  drawbacks  the  comjiany  deserves  great 
credit  <'"r  the  auiount  of -eographical  work  its  otlicers  have  ac<  omplishcd. 


Tin;   ISLANDS   OP   THE    ARCHIPELAGO   ALEXANDER. 


it  is  only  i,cce>isary  to  locate  and  enumerate  the  ])rini'ii)al  ones  of  the  eleven 
hundred*  islands  and  isl(>ts  laid  down  in  this  archi|>elago.  The  great  islands 
thinking  the  ocean  are  IM'ince  of  Waics  and  its  closely  adjacent  islands  and 
islets.  The  island  has  a  general  direction  north  '2^"  west;  stretches  from  Cai»e 
C!ia(on  in  hiiitiide  r»lo  4^/^  j,,  l^^^■^^^^  p,.,i-,>,.^  j„  .-,,;o  00,.  i,.,vj„g  ,,„  oxtreme  length  of 
one  hiMiilred  and  seven  miles  and  an  averagt^  wid'h  of  forty  miles.  Its  north  and 
east  sImmvs  arc  bonlcred  by  Clarcm-e  Sound;  its  sontlu'rii  by  Dixon  Sound;  011 
the  west  li(^  the  islands  and  straits  forming  Bucarelli  Sound;  between  it  and  tiio 


"  riincc  of  Wiili'H  Isl;m(l  iiiul  those  rloscly  Hurroiindinii  il,  0110  Iiinidrcd  iiiid  tliiityllvi' ;  fidm 
rortlimd  V:\u:\\  1.)  (.'iipc  Ciiiiniann,  one  IiiiiiciimI  and  tliiit.v-loiii  :  iVoiii  ('ape  Caaiiiaiio  to  middle  of 
Stil>iiie  Strait.  s.v<'iity-H.'vcii;  lietweeii  t'liatliaiii,  l'ie<l,Miek,  and  StiUiiie  Sliaits,  tliree  luniilicd 
iinil  (illy:  .AdiidraMy  l>]aiid  and  (liose  aromid  it,  one  linnilivd  and  eij;liti'eM:  llaranofVand  ad.jucent 
i.HlandM.  one  Innidivd  and  lldily-eiy.lii  ;  Cliat' .e.n  St'.iil  imrlli  of  Adnnral!;,  Island,  twenty-nine  ; 
(.'liuluHoll  ami  adjaeeul  JKlaudH  to  Fairweathei  I'eniiisulii,  one  Imuilred  and  nine. 


ALASJvA  COAST  PII.()T. 


71 


mainland  lie  tho  Cliavina  Lslaiuls  and  llevilla  Gigedo,  Zarcndm,  Etolin,  Wranj^cll, 
&c.     Those  isliuids  are  all  his'iit  nmi-li  hrokcn,  and  covered  with  ,i;i'eiit  forests. 

The  southeastern  part  of  ISaranolV  Island  lies  olV  ilie  northwest  ]iart  of  I'rineo 
of  Wales  Island,  with  part  of  Kuiou  Island  and  Chatham  and  Clarenee  Straits 
intervening.  J  uianoft'  Island  'i.is  a  };eneral  direetion  north  17°  west;  streteiies 
from  Cape  Omnuiuey,  in  latitude  'AP  10',  to  Peril  Strait,  in  570^1!';  havin;;-  a  leMj;th 
of  eij-lity-seven  miles  and  an  average  width  of  twenty-two  miles.  Its  nortli 
shore,  is  washed  by  Peril  Strait,  and  the  east  shore  by  Chatham  Strait.  Between 
its  southern  part  and  the  mainland,  near  the  Stikine  Kiver,  lie  the  islands  of 
Coronation,  Kuiou,  Knprianott",  ilitikotf,  &e.  To  the  east  of  its  northern  part 
lies  the  southern  part  of  Admiralty  Island.  Otl"  its  northwestern  part  lies  the 
large  island  of  Pitt,  or  Kruzott",  forming  part  of  the  shores  of  Sitka  Sound. 
]?aranoil"  is  high,  broken,  and  densely  covered  Mith  tind)er.  I'pon  Kuiou  tind 
Kuprianotf  Islands  bituminous  coal  veins  have  been  oitened.  These  coal  deposits 
and  those  of  Admiralty  Island  have  tliii  same  general  trend  as  the  islands  and 
main  straits  of  the  archipelago  Alexander. 

Pitt  or  Kruzotf  Ishmd  lies  ncu'th  and  south  between  (!ape  Edgecaimbe,  in 
latitude  r)7°,  and  the  north  extremity  in  Salisbury  Sound,  in  latitucU'  ')1'^  IS'. 
Its  length  is  nineteen  miles,  and  its  greatest  width  thnmgli  Mount  Edgecundie 
is  about  eight  miles.      It  is  naulerately  high,  broken,  and  densely  wooded. 

North  of  I>aranotr  Island,  and  separated  therefrom  by  Peril  Strait,  lies  tho 
island  of  Chichagoff.  Its  general  direcition  is  the  same  as  IJaranoll';  its  length 
fifty-seven  miles,  and  average  width  thirty-six  nnles.  It  has  not  been  exjiloicd 
since  Vancouver's  time.  On  the  north  it  is  separated  from  the  Fairweather 
Peninsula  by  Icy  Strait ;  its  eastern  shore  is  washed  by  Chatham  Strait,  and  the 
north  part  of  Admiralty  Island  lies  east  of  it. 

Adndralty  Island  has  a  general  direetion  with  Chatham  Strait  north  by  cuist ; 
stretches  from  Point  (Gardner,  in  latitude  57°  01',  to  Point  Retreat,  in  latitude  58° 
18';  has  a  length  of  eighty-three  miles,  and  an  average  wi<lth  .>f  about  twenty-five 
miles.  Its  sluaes  have  bc'Mi  described  in  the  (h'scription  of  ( "hatham  Strait,  in 
Krouznofl' I>ay,  on  this  island,  has  been  o])eiu'(l  a  bituminous  coal  mine. 

DIXON   SOUND. 


This  sheet  of  water,  opening  uiMHi  the  Pacific  Ocean,  lies  between  the  north 
side  of  the  Queen  Charlotte  group  and  the  south  capes  and  shores  of  the  Alexan 
der  Archipelago,  between  the  latitudes  of  51°  10'  and  ')'k°  35',  and  longitudes 
1.'?lo  and  l.'i.'iAo.  From  (he  northern  ])art  lead  several  great  straits  and  sounds; 
from  the  northeastern  part,  which  was  named  liuccleugli  Soun<l  by  Meares  in 
178{>,  leads  the  channel  to  Portland  Canal,  the  southern  dividing  line  between 
British  Columbia  and  Alaska. 

Dixon  Sound  oi»ens  s(Mithward  ui)on  extensive  waters  leading  among    ilie 
islaiuls.     It  is  comparatively  free  from  dangers,  having,  however,  a  tew  rocks  on 


72 


ALASKA  COAST  riI,OT. 


the  norti'  side  tliut  iuc  icportt'd  to  ho.  not  well  laid  down.  It  is  named  on  sonio 
maps  (!n  m/;.  Sound,  and  on  others  Ky-f^ali-ne  Strait.  It  was  named  by  Dixon,* 
M<'ares  in  t\.  "  year  niinie<l  it  Douglas  Entrance,  after  the  commander  of  the 

iplii};-enia,  one  of  bis  vessels. 

Before  describiiij,'  the  headlands,  bays,  &c.,  of  the  North  Sound,  the  following 
remarks  ui»on  the  north  shores  of  the  (^ueen  (Iharlotte  group,  forming  the  south 
shores  of  the  western  part  of  Dixon  Sound,  are  given  from  the  best  available 
authorities. 

EOSK  I'OTXT.  . 

Thi.s  pecidiar  point  forms  the  northeast  part  of  the  Queen  (3harlotte  group, 
on  the  south  shores  of  Dixon  Sound,  and  stretches  well  ir.to  i'  vaters.  The 
higher  ])iirt  of  the  point  has  th(>  appearance  of  an  island  when  Si  ;n  :i<  ia  the  east 
or  west,  but  is  {'onniu'ted  to  the  main  island  by  a  low,  narrow  neck  of  wooded 
land.  The  northern  extremity  of  this  high  peninsula  is  in  510  12',  longitude 
1310  21';  but  northward  of  it  stretches  a  low,  sandy  reef  to  latitude  54°  lit)'.  On 
the  west  side  of  the  ]>eninsida  there  is  the  appearance  of  a  good  roadstead,  shel- 
tered from  all  sonllu'rly  and  east  winds. 

When  abreast  the  north  point  of  the  peninsula,  Douglas  ''  got  sight  of  both 
sides  as  well  as  of  a  sandy  spit,  level  with  the  water,  which  ran  to  the  northward 
as  far  as  the  eye  could  see  from  the  mast-head."  "  After  rounding  the  sandy 
level"  and  stretching  along  the  eastern  side  of  it,  "  they  came  to  regular  sound- 
ings of  ten,  eight,  and  seven  fathoms  of  water,  about  three  or  four  miles  from  the 
island,  the  extremes  of  which  bore  north  by  west,  and  southeast  by  east  half  east, 
by  compass.    lie  named  it  Rose  Point,  and  placed  it  in  latitude  51°  J  8'. 


PORTLAND  CANAL. 

This  extensive  arm  of  Dixon  Sound  forms  the  southeastern  dividing  line 
l)etween  J5ritisii  Columbia  and  Alaska;  it  commences  in  latitude  .Vfo  41',  accord- 
ing to  Vancouver's  nmp,  and  the  entrance  lies  between  Point  ."Maskelyne,!  on  the 
mainland  near  I'ort  Simpson,  and  Point  Wales,^  upon  an  island  lying  northwest 
from  Point  IMaskelyne.  Vancouver  places  the  latter  in  latitude  54o  4l»J',  longi- 
tude ir)l»c  15'  west,  (Vol.  I,  ]).  ;i27,)  while  the  i)osition  of  Point  Wales  from  the 
nmp  is  in  54o  41V,  and  longitude  ir)()o  20'.  "  The  entrance  is  not  more  than  two 
and  a  half  miles  across,  and  this,  at  the  distance  of  a  few  miles,  seemed  to  bo 
nuiterially  contracted."  From  the  entranw  the  canal  runs  mirtli  35°  east  twenty 
miles,  with  an  average  width  of  three  miles,  with  chaTinels  Iwakiits:  off  to  the  east 
ai  d  west,  where  it  recei\es  Observatory  Inlet,  a  laii:*"  bran«-h  which  comes  about 
forty  miles  from  the  north-nortliwast  The  north  point,  dividing  Observatory  Inlet 
from  Ihecnniil.  was  nanu'd  by  Vaneouxcr.  Point  Itamsden.  .jud  placed  in  latitude 


*  111  1776  it  was  rtiscovered  by  Bodng.i,  and  uiimod  hy  him  Poiw  Iiil<>t.— W.  H.  D. 

t  Niuiicd  Iiy  Vaiicmivor  in  ITiKt. 

t  Niinii'd  liy  Vaiici.uvcr  in   ITlKi,  iif'tci-  bin  iu*<^iiict4H-.  Mr.  WiiIi-h  «*'  ClniHtH  Hrtspitall. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


73 


540  30',  anil  lonjjitiule  liflo  oTi'  west,  (page  JJJJC.)  At  first,  mIicii  oiitoriiij>'  nito" 
the  survey  of  the  canal  and  inlet,  Vancouver  was  "  uncertain  wliich  to  eonsiih'r 
tlie  main  branch."'    (Vol.  IF,  p.  .'{.'{0.) 

Tlie  canal  continnes  from  the  above  point  with  thi  conrse  north  LVP  west 
for  seven  miles ;  then  north  30°  east  for  thirteen  miles;  nortli  lioo  west  fin- thir- 
teen miles;  north  7"^  degrees  west  for  ten  miles;  ninth  21°  east  for  nine  mih's, 
and  terminates  in  latitude  TmO  4.V,  and  longitude  lUP  .>!'.     (Vol.  II.  p.  .MO.) 

The  distance  on  the  above  coiu'ses,  taken  from  Vancouver's  maj),  sum  up 
seventy-two  miles,  and  in  his  narrative  lie  says  the  total  "distance  from  its 
entrance  to  its  mouth  is  about  seventy  miles ;  which,  in  honor  of  the  noble 
family  of  Bentinck,  I  named  Portland's  Canah''^    (Vol.  IT,  j).  .571.) 

"The  slim'i's  of  this  inlet  were  nearly  straight,  and  in  gencial  little  more 
than  a  mile  asunder,  composed  mostly  of  high,  rocky  clill's,  covered  with  ])ine 
trees  to  a  considerable  height;  but  the  more  interior  country  was  u  coni]tact 
body  of  high,  barren  mountains,  covered  Avitli  snow,  (.Inly  lilt,  170.$.)  As  we  pur- 
sued this  branch,  salmon  in  great  plenty  were  leaping  in  all  directions;  seals  and 
sea-otter  were  also  seen  in  great  inunbers,  even  wherir  the  Mater  Avas  ncaily  fresh, 
and  which  was  the  case  for  upwards  of  twenty  miles  from  its  termination."  (Vol. 
II,  p.  340.) 

On  the  Admiralty  Chart  No.  lfll*3  A,  the  name  of  the  iioiiit  designated  by 
Vancimver  as  IMaskelyne,  has  been  transferred  to  another  lying  two  and  one- 
fourth  miles  inside  the  entrance  of  the  canal  and  surrounded  by  islands. 

Vancouver  says  that  off  Point  Maskelyne  lie  two  rocky  islets,  and  to  th(^ 
south  of  it  a  small  island  close  to  the  shore ;  doubtless  Birnie  Island. 

On  this  chart,  the  Point  Maskelyne  of  Vancimver,  is  i»laced  in  latitude 
.~i4o  .3(5'.!),  longitude  1.3(1^  27'. 7,  and  Point  Wales  lies  nortiiwcst  one  mih'.  Tliis 
will  place  the  entrance  about  latitude  'i\°  37.y  muth,  and  longitinle  V.W^  liSA' 
west. 

TAYAKnONSITI  IIAniiOU. 

The  tirst  anchorage  in  the  southeast  part  of  Alaska  is  this  contracted  har- 
bor,* situated  about  ten  miles  northwest  of  Port  Simi»son.  in  the  narrow  straits 
forming  a  grouj)  of  islands  about  tlve  or  six  miles  west-northwest  from  i'oiiit 
Wales,  Its  only  im])oilance  was  the  large  Aillage  of  about  one  hundred  jiiid 
forty-tiie  souls  of  the  Tongas  tribe,  and  since  1.H(I7  the  establishnient  of  a  rnited 
States  military  j)ost  nanunl  Fort  Tongas. 

Two  small  straits  intersect  each  other  in  the  group  of  islamls,  and  form  luiu' 
passages:  one  leading  northeast  from  the  intersection  through  luimerous  islets 
and  islands  to  Portland  (Miial;  one  to  the  northwest ;  the  i)rincipal  one  leading 
westward  towards  Dixou  Sound;  and  tlie  fourth  and  narrowest  one  southeast. 
This  hitter  passage  is  three  miles  huig,  and  'r\  the     irrowest  i)art,  near  the  inter 


*  SomrtinicN  written  HrklioiiNiti,  llcdioiirity      ;itt  C'en 
iifiiiii'  iul'ipti'ii  iw  from  tlio  Uimsiiin  manir^iipt  h1\i   „!;, 
10 


scfUt  City  luul  Cli-muiit  City.    Tlio 


74 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


Kcction,  is  less  than  tlio  cif-lilli  of  :i  mile  wide,  witli  only  two  fathoms  of  wator. 
Tlicic  is  andioraKf  laiil  tlown  at  its  southern  entrance  in  twonty-four  fathoms, 
over  gravel  bottom:  about  two  miles  in  it  lie  three  small  islets  in  mid  ehannel; 
the  ]»assane  is  on  the  west  side  of  these  islets,  in  five  fathoms,  aTid  just  beyond  is 
anchorage  in  twenty  fathoms,  mud:  elose  under  the  northeast  point  of  the  i)a8- 
sage,  at  the  interseetion,  there  is  am-horage  in  10  fathoms,  mud. 

The  i)rineii)al  i)assage  leading  in  from  the  westward  is  half  n  mile  in  width, 
with  the  shores  bordered  by  rocks.  The  midchau'id  couise  gives  souudings  in 
five  or  six  fathoms  in  the  entrauce,  increasing  to  seven  and  eight  when  the  village 
on  the  south  shore  bears  about  south.  A  I'eef  of  rocks  is  laid  down  in  front  of 
tiie  village.  The  passages  intersect  about  a  mile  ami  a  quarter  from  the  Avest 
entrance,  with  seventeen  to  twenty  fathoms  of  water.  The  northeast  and  north- 
Mcs,  ])assages  are  rei)reseuted  as  about  half  a  mile  in  width. 

The  latest  iufornuitiou  says  no  good  harbor  is  found  here  except  for  very 
small  vessels;  that  the  "harbor,  in  and  about  it,  uecds  a  careful  survey,  being  in 
rather  a  bad  situation,  surrounded  by  rocks,  reefs,  and  shoals  on  the  outside 
and  inside."  On  acccmnt  of  the  United  States  military  j)ost  here  it  was  visited 
by  three  large  vessels  in  18(i8.  In  clearing  the  timber  for  this  post  it  is  reported 
that  yellow  ce<lar  trees  of  eight  feet  diameter  were  cut  down. 

Chichagott"  phutes  the  entrance  of  the  west  passage  in  latitude  54°  47'  north 
and  longitude  VM)°  .'52'  west  and  the  entrance  of  the  southeast  passage  in  r)i° 
■\V  north  and  longitude  VM)°  li!)'.".  west. 

The  entrance  to  the  west  jtassage  lies  about  lour  miles  east  of  Cape  Fox  on 
the  latest  charts. 


:i 


SIK.VITS,   HAYS.    AND   CAPKS   ON    DIXON   SOUND. 

From  thf  north  side  of  Dixon  Sound  o|K'n  IJevilla  (iigedo*  Channel  or  the 
Tongas  Narn)ws,  hetx\een  OaiH'  Fi)X  and  Cape  Xorthumberlaud,  leading  to  liehm 
Chaniu'l  and  (Maienee  Strait;  Clarem-e  Strait,  l)etween  Capo  Northumberland 
and  CajM'  Chacon:  and  Cordova  Day.  iH^tweei"!  I'ape  Chacon  and  Ca])e  Kygane  or 
Muzon,  with  the  Tk-vak  Strait,  leading  to  l'iiio*iy»lli  Stmiul.  The  foregoing  capes 
are  nearly  (hi  tiie  tame  parallel  of  latitutlt?  awi  eouiprised  within  two  degrees  of 
longitude. 

.   I.  t\»x.t 


This  broad  itoint  lies  in  the  '-'*>rem  part  of  Dixon  Sound,  where  it  is  only  six 
miles  in  width,  with  the  north  point  of  the  Dundas  Islands  directly  scmtli.  The 
south  |tart  of  the  cape  is  not  less  than  t!\c  miles  in  extent  east  »m\  west,  bordered 
by  roeks  and  ish>ts  and  backed  by  liigh  wooded  ridges.  'Nv«r  the  scuithwestem 
l)art  of  the  caiie  Vanc(Mi\ir  took  refugi<  with  his  boats  ••  in  si  vH>mm<ulious,  well- 
sheltered  little  cove,  whi(;h  protecte«l  them  from  h  vtsry  luuxl  g8»Jf  v»f  wiml  from  the 

'  Namod  liy  Viincouvrr  nfV«>r  the  Coiitlf  do  U<\  iT*  (;in<'<l<).  >  kxruv  «>«'Nc\v  !<|>air.. 
t  Niiiufd  by  ViMirouvcr. 


■f 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


75 


southeast,  wliich  bron<>Ut  from  the  ocoau  so  heavy  a  sea  upon  these  shores  as  to 
invade  even  our  suii^'  retreat."  He  i)l:ue(l  the  southeasternniost  part  ol'  tlie  eape, 
Avhicli  is  loriiied  by  an  islet,  in  latitu(U'  ."4^  ■{'>),',  but  lie  had  rainy  weather  and 
apparently  no  observations.  Three  miles  westward  from  tlu^  southwest  part  ot 
the  c;><pe  a  suidven  rock  is  laid  down  on  the  eharts,  with  the  tracks  of  the  tradin;;- 
steamers  on  either  side.  This  is  the  Cape  Muorey  of  ]\leares,  who  placed  it  in  lat- 
itude 540  4;5',  and  says  that  a  small  rocky  island  lies  oft'  it. 

TOUGAS  NARROWS  AND  THE  CJUAVINA  ISLANDS. 

The  south  entrance  to  the  Tougas  Narrows  opens  upon  Dixon  Sound  between 
Capes  Fox  and  Northumberland,  and  runs  in  a  {,'eneral  north-northwest  clirectiou 
fi-rty  "'^'e  niiles  t(.  the  latitude  r>rp  liTi',  where  the  northwest  openin;,'  of  IJeiim* 
Channel  meeSr' -?;;j-'euce  Strait.  At  the  south  the  width  is  lour  or  five  miles,  hut 
in  a  few  miles  it  is  much  reduced  in  width  by  luunerous  small  islands  and  islets; 
at  the  north  its  width  is  a  little  over  a  mile.  Throujifhout  its  leii<;tli  several 
anchorages  are  laid  down  on  Tebenkoii"s  chart,  witii  the  track  of  the  trading 
steamers  thnnigh  the  strait. 

A  very  pretty  but  small  basin  is  fouml  on  the  east  side  of  the  northern 
entrance,  about  two  or  three  miles  inside  the  northern  jwint.  Jt  has  a  small 
wooded  islet  in  its  entrance,  and  anchorage  is  found  in  twelve  to  tifteen  fathoi  is 
over  muddy  bottom.  This  anchorage  is  resorted  to  by  the  Hudson  Bay  Company, 
and  we  anchored  in  it  in  1807. 

The  Tilhnaeh  settlement  of  Indians  is  located  near  the  northeastern  point, 
which  was  named  Point  Higgins  by  Vancouver.  The  nortiiwesteru  jioint  is  V  il- 
lenar,t  "a  very  remarkable  projecting  point,  off  which  two  small  wooded  islets 
stretch  over  a  mile  to  the  north-northwest;  from  Point  Higgins  thescMsit-ts  bea" 
south  HP  west  half  a  league  distant." 

The  Gravina  group  of  islands  forms  the  western  shores  of  the  Narrows.  It 
consists  of  three  large  and  numerous  small  ones,  Avho.'!»  eastern  shores  have  never 
been  outlined.  Two  large  channels  pass  through  then,  east  and  west,  from  Tou- 
gas  Narrows  to  Clarence  Sound. 

CAPE  NOPTHTMBERLAND.t 

This  is  the  southeastern  point  of  the  entrance  to  Clarence  Sound  and  lies 
between  it  and  the  Tongas  Narrows.  It  is  the  extremity  of  the  group  of  islaiMl,« 
called  theClravina  grt>up;  is  low,  close  to  tlie  water,  i»ut  rises  to  liigii  ridge--  n\' 
a  thousand  or  fifteen  hundred  feet,  wooded  from  the  water's  edg(>  ti>  tlie  ■^iinniiis. 
When  coming  out  of  the  Tongas  Narrows  a  low  wooded  islet  is  seen  lying  utl  tli>' 
cape.  It  lies  thirteen  miles  north  W<»o  w,.st  from  (!ape  Fox,  iiinl  twenty  fuiir  miles 
north  Gl°  east  from  CajK;  Chacou. 

*  Niiriii'd  liy  Viiiicimvcr  ullcr  Mii,ii>i'  ncliiii  Mt  K:iinr'ii'1mtk:i. 

t  Naiiiril  liy  ViUKoiivi'i'  in  ITlt:!.  iit'tfr  lii-  im  .llciii  \  S.-  <■■■  Hiifjjiiis  <li   Viilliiiiir,  lii.'  jirrxiclmi  ,.f 
Clilli. 

I  NmiH'il  tiy  Vaiiruiivcr  ill  l7!»H"iii  In '»l  ili^il  illiiilrion--  liiiiiil.y." 


7() 


ALASKA  COAST  riLOi;. 


Vancouver  obsorvoil  tlic  Iiititiulo  of  Cape  Nortliumberland  on  a  small  island 
of  a  larf;c  inmibcr  lying  south  of  the  ca])e.  From  this  island,  which  he  describes 
as  tol('ra1)l.v  hi^li,  he  ^laincd  a  vei\v  distinct  \  icw  of  the  surrounding'  roctks  and 
breakers  in  all  directions.  His  position  was  in  latitude  ."i-io  oU' north.  lie  says 
the  outermost  of  the  rocky  islets  towards  the  northwest  lies  north  57°  west,  three 
and  a  iiall'  miles  disUmt;  those  to  the  southwest,  south  G7°  west,  four  and  a  half 
miles  distant ;  the  soutiicrnmost,  which  Avas  furthest  ofl",  south  six  miles  distant; 
and  tlic  southcasteriuiiost,  south  ')(P  east,  distant  five  miles.  Jlalfway  between 
the  southeastern  and  soutiiwestern  islets,  and  in  line  with  them  lies  another 
cluster.     In  ^'ol.  II,  p.  USO,  he  describes  them  as  follows:   - 

"The  soulheriunost  of  the  rocks  lying  oft"  Cape  Xorthumberlaud  is  a  round 
lumj*  of  bai'ren  rock,  very  small,  always  above  water,  and  which  hus  some 
breakers  lying  at  a  little  distance!  off  its  southeast  side.  The  southeasternmost  of 
these  rocks  lies  from  the  south  rock  iu)rtli  4.'P  east,  distant  four  and  a  half  miles, 
and  is  a  low,  flat,  (h)uble  rock,  always  above  water,  but  has  nuich  broken  ground 
in  I  lie  neighborhood.  The  southwesternuu)st  rocks  are  two  sundl  rocks  above 
water,  with  nuieh  broken  ground  to  the  ncu'th  and  northeast  of  them  and  in  a 
direet  line  to  the  soutlK'asternmost  rocks.  They  bear  from  the  south  rock  north 
II''  west,  distant  five  and  a  half  miles.  Between  these  and  the  eastern  shore  lie 
many  dangerous  rocks  and  breakers;  but  no  dangers  appeared  northward  of  the 
south  rock,  between  it  and  the  other  rocks,  where  the  channel  to  all  appearance 
appeared  to  b  >  free  from  inqiediments." 

He  ])laces  the  s«utliernmost  rock  in  latitude  04°  44',  seven  and  a  half  miles 
soutli  of  file  caiie. 

Tebcnkoff  places  the  rock  in  latitude  54°  4r.J',  longitude  l.'U°  1.'3',  and  live  miles 
soutii  of  the  cape,  with  the  tra>  k  of  the  IJnssian  vessels  on  either  side, 

The  English  Admiralty  Chart  No.  24^51,  place.>  them  in  aecoivhuice  with  Van- 
couver's description. 

AVe  have  named  this  southernmost  nx'k  the  "Banvn  Kock;"  it  lies  about 
twelve  miles  west  of  Cape  Fox. 

In  June  ITSft,  Mearcs  named  the  "hixb  mountain"  of  Cape  Xortluunberlaiul 
]Mount  St.  l/.izaro,  and  phun-d  ii  in  latitwK'  -M^  5J'.  With  his  glass  lu;  i)erceived 
the  app'ar  ine  '  of  a  \  illage  upon  thi>  v<tt>e.  Vaueouver  says  thit  from  his  latitude 
station  he  saw  at  the  northeast  l>art  of  the,  eHiH>,  on  a  high  detached  rock,  the 
reniaiiis  of  a  village. 

Seven  and  a  half  mile.s  south  "^O '  west^  Vdmiralty  ('hart  Xo,  L'l.U  lays  down  the 
IXnil's  Hidge,  but  the  positiv^u  doubH\»h  and  twelve  miles  .south  7L'°  west,  !i  rock 
and  eluster  about  it  marked  (Uwlm^d,  Uoth  are  broad  oft"  the  south  entrance  to 
Clarence  Strait.  'IVbcnkofV  h;vs  vvul,v  oh*>  patch  of  rock  called  the  Devil's  Bank, 
lying  fifteen  miK's  south  ^7"  w«vvt  from  Uarren  Itock,  and  twelve  miles  south  7L'° 
east  t'loui  Cape  Clmeou.  It  is  marked  us  a  rock  above  water,  with  sunken  rocks 
aivuud  it. 


ALASIwV  COAST  I'lLOT. 


77 


CLARENCE  SOUND. 

From  the  nortli  side  of  Dixon  Sound,  between  Onpes  Xortliuniherland  and 
Chacon,  in  lonH;itude  l''5U°,  Clarence  Sound  opens  with  a  widiii  ol'  lil'iccn  to 
twenty  niih's;  runs  in  a  }:feneial  northwest  hy  nintli  direction  for  one  JMnidrcd  and 
twenty  miles;  thence  westward  twenty  miles;  and  linally  southsoiitheast  for 
twenty-live  miles,  with  the  lar;,'e  islands  calh'd  Coronation  and  Warren  at  its 
Avesteru  entrance,  where  it  mingles  its  waters  with  those  at  the  entrance  to 
Chatham  Strait.  The  average  width  of  the  wholes  sound  is  about  seven  miles,  but 
at  some  i)laces  its  available  channel  is  much  rt'duced  by  islets  and  rocks.  In  a 
measure  it  surrounds  the  island  called  Prince  of  Wales,  the  southern  jtoiiit  of 
Avldch  is  the  initial  point  of  the  boundary  line  between  ^Vlaska  and  llritisli  (Jolumbia. 
Numerous  straits  are  reported  to  exist  thron;;li  parts  of  this  larjje  island,  dividinj? 
it  into  an  extensive  group,  and  is  hence  sometimes  called  Prince  of  Wales  zVrchi- 
I)elago.  From  the  eastern  side  of  Clarence  Straits  great  arms  penetrate  in  a 
general  direction  to  the  northeastward  until  they  reach  the  bus**  of  the  coast 
mountains;  these  arms  or  inlets  are  known  us  the  liehni  Canal,  a  large  one  not 
named,  Ernest  Souml,  Stikine  Sound,  Wrangell  Straits,  «&c.  Their  waters  are 
navigable,  the  shores  generally  very  bold  and  covered  with  timber,  and  the  whole 
forming  an  intriciicy  of  ial.tnd  navigation  ditlicult  to  describe  in  detail,  and  best 
studied  on  the  chart.  The  southwest nn  and  i)arts  of  the  eastern  shores  of  Prince 
of  Wales  Archipelago  have  remained  unexi)h»red  since  the  examinations  of  the 
Spaniards,  who  left  little  more  than  numerous  nanu's  to  prominent  capes,  points, 
uiK^xplored  bays  ami  straits. 

Clarence  Sound  forms  part  of  that  vast  and  unparalleled  system  of  deep 
inland  navigation  extending  from  latitude  -47°  O.'i'  to  o\}°  lo', 

POUT  rfARDNi^.n. 


Tlie  first  bay  and  anchorage  in  the  entrance  to  Clarenite  Sound  is  Port 
(lai'dner,  on  the  western  side,  ami  eight  miles  nortli-noitheast  of  the  south(':i«t<*rn 
extremity  (Cape  Chacon)  of  rrinec  of  Wales  Island.  The  entrance  is  in  latitude 
54°  40'^  longitude  l.'Uo  45',  and  on  Tebenkoflf's  atlas  is  laid  down  about  a  mile 
wide  and  two  miles  deep,  expanding  into  an  am])le  basin  inside  the  niduth,  which 
has  an  islet  and  rock  in  it.  The  course  to  enter  tins  bay  is  marked  on  another 
Enssian  chart  as  on  the  north  side  of  the  islet.  Xo  depth  of  water  or  d(!tails  are 
given. 

In  .Tune,  17?^;t,  Meares  anchored  in  a  small  anchorage  with  a  depth  of  twenty- 
three  fathoms  over  sand  and  shells,  the  latitude  being  i)i°  .j1'.  lie  called  it  Port 
Meares. 

Another  bay  and  aiichiH'age  is  imlicated  as  a  stoi)ping  jdaee  for  tiailing 
vessels  iibont  two  miles  further  northward,  ahmg  the  sanu'  shore,  and  is 
designated  on  a  Russian  chart  as  "The  Archipelago,"'  as  a  great  nund>er  of  islets 
are  laid  down  in  it.    The  triu'k  indicates  the  passage  to  lie  north  of  the  islets. 


7H 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


ClIICIIAGOFK   HAV. 

Ill  latitude  ."('2  or  tin  re  is  miirkcd  aiiotlicr  small  l)iiy  and  anclioraso  on  tlio 
SKiitli  side  (if  the  sontlii  ast  pniiit  of  the;  ciitraiicc  to  Moira  sound.  Xo  name  is 
given  to  this  an<'liora)j;e,  but  the  large  bay  filled  with  islands  just  to  the  southward 
is  eallcd  Cliichagoll'  by  the  Itussiaiis. 

TONGAS  DAY. 

This  large  bay  is  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  sonnd,  on  the  middle  one  of  the 
three  large  islands  forming  the  (Iravina  group  lying  between  Tongas  Xari'ows  and 
Clarence  Sound.  There  arc  two  entrances  to  this  harbor,  separated  by  a  largo 
wooded  island,  or  rather  by  a  group  of  live  or  six  smaller  islands.  Both  are  in 
latitude  .">t^  .")!)',  and  the  islands  separating  them  are  in  longitude  i;51o  li.'i',  and 
Imve  an  extent  of  two  miles  i-nch  way.  Toint  Davison*  is  the  southwest  jioint  of 
the  (Jraviini  Island  stretching  farthest  into  Clarence  Sound  and  forms  part  of  the 
shore  to  the  western  entrance.  There  is  an  t.'xtensive  reef  oft'  this  point,  streteli- 
ing  southwestward  about  ii  mile  and  a  half.  The  eastern  point,  being  the  south 
jioint  of  the  island  in  the  entrance,  is  named  J'oint  Perey,t  and  the  pa^ssago 
between  these  points  is  two  miles  wide  and  runs  about  northeast  for  four  miles, 
contracts  to  a  mile  in  width,  when  it  runs  north  one  mile,  northwest  two  miles, 
Avhere  it  suddenly  eontraeta  to  a  very  narrow  passage  to  the  west  for  half  a  mile, 
and  expands  to  a  large  basin  two  miles  long,  north  and  south,  and  one  and  a  half 
wide,  east  and  west,  with  ten  to  fifteen  fathoms  of  water  in  it.  "Where  the  (;han- 
nel  is  first  contracted  to  one  mile  in  width  the  soundings  range  from  thirty  to 
twenty  fathoms,  with  anchorages  of  fifteen  to  twenty  fathoms  in  several  places. 
The  bottom  throughout  is  represented  as  muddy.  There  are  several  snmll  islets 
in  the  channel,  but  they  have  deep  water  close  to  them. 

A'ancouver  stiifcs  the  latitu(h'  of  J'oint  Davison  to  be  55°  OOV,  The  position 
of  the  inner  anchorage,  according  to  Etolin,  is  in  latitude  55°  03'  noith  and  longi- 
tude l.no  L'.V  west. 

Itoiigh  ])lans  arc  given  of  this  bay  by  Tebenkoflf  and  in  other  Russian  charts 
from  that  of  IMolin  made  in  IH'Ml.  The  rise  and  fall  of  tide  is  stated  at  fourteen 
feet. 

MOIRA   SOX'NI). 

The  entrance  to  this  sonnd,  on  the  west  side  of  Clarence  Sound,  lias  in  about 
latitude  ."P  ftl.",  is  about  two  miles  in  width,  .  id  has  several  islets  otf  each  point. 
It  penetrates  Wales  Island  about  six  miles  to  the  southwest,  then  turns  shari>ly 
to  the  northwest  for  six  or  eight  miles,  heading  near  the  heads  of  Cholmondely 
Sound,  which  «'omes  from  north-northeast,  and  Tliakak  Bay,  which  comes  from 
the  southwest  from  Cordova  Bay. 

"  The  land  in  the  neighborhood  of  Moira  Sound  is  high  and  rather  steep 


•Niiini'if  liy  Viini'onvcr  in  17!):(  .'it'tcr  Afi'Xiiiiilcr  Davismi,  tlic  kwikt  iit'  llic  storcsliiii  of  fiis  ox- 
prditiou. 

tNiinii'il  liv  ViiiHdiivi  r  in  I'lKl. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


70 


towards  Clarence  Sound;  l»ut  lunili  of  Wedge  Island,  (in  latitude  Tm"  07',)  llio 
8tnii},dit  and  conipaet  shores  are  moderately  elevated,  ami  the  interior  eountr.N  is 
eom|»osed  of  lol'ty  Ihonjjh  uneven  niouutaius,  iirodueiiiji  iin  ahnost  ini|ieiu'tral)le 
Ibrest  of  pine  trees  from  tin;  water  side  iu,'ariy  to  tiieir  snniniits,  i>nt  hy  no  means 
80  high  as  wo  had  been  accustomed  to  see  in  the  more  iidaud  country."  (\an- 
couver  ii,  p.  381.) 

Wrdf/c  Tsl(t»d  "from  many  jioints  of  view  icsembled  a  Medge;  from  its  south 
point  stretches  a  ledge  of  dangerous  rocks  on  which  the  sea  broke  witli  great 
violence." 

cii()l:\[()ni)Kt.ky  sound.* 

On  the  western  shore  of  Clarence  Sound,  about  latitude  "P  IT',  Cape  Tehaseni 
runs  two  miles  directly  west  to  the  eastern  side  of  tiie  entrance  to  ChohuoniU-ley 
Sound,  one  or  two  miles  wide,  and  in  it  lie  several  islets,  with  a  larger  one,  named 
Skin  Island  being  north  75°  west  two  and  a  half  miles  from  the  east  point  of  Cape 
Tehaseni. t  A  liussian  chart  has  a  small  islet  close  on  the  mnth  side  of  tl  e  east- 
ern part  of  the  cape.  Tiie  anchorage  of  the  trading  vessels  is  laid  down  broad  off 
the  north  side  of  the  cape.  This  sound  runs  south-southwest  for  ten  or  twelve  miles 
and  o])ens  into  several  xmexplored  arms.  The  head  of  the  main  body  of  water 
lies  near  the  heads  of  Moira  Sound  and  of  Tliakak  15ay,  whieli  o|)eus  into  the 
northeast  ])art  of  the  unex'idored  bay  of  Cordova.  On  tin-  inside  of  tin-  entrance 
to  the  sound  and  on  the  eastern  side  lies  the  native  settlement  of  Chasintzcll'. 

KAZATIN  BAY. 

Forty-two  miles  north  of  Cape  Chacon,  on  the  west  side  of  (^lareiic".  Sound, 
an  anchorage  is  laid  down  at  the  entrance  of  Kazarn  Bay,  the  oi)ening  to  which 
lies  in  latitude  55°  27',  longitude  ISj"^  01',  one  and  a  half  mile  inside  the  i)oint 
eastward  of  it.  A  large  island  named  (Irindall  lies  two  miles  northeast  of  this 
point,  while  a  broad  unexplored  arm  of  the  sound  runs  westward  of  Kazarn. 
The  bay  is  four  miles  long,  about  one;  mile  wide,  runs  about  south-southwest,  and 
has  a  setilement  at  its  head. 

A  Eussian  has  established  a  trading  post  and  salmon  fishery  in  this  bay, 
and  in  July  18GS  was  curing  and  packing  two  hundred  barrels  a  week,  and 
coidd  have  trebled  it  but  for  want  of  facilities;  the  salmon  run  from  July  I  to 
end  of  xVugnst.  The  harbor  is  reported  good  and  easy  of  access  ;  s[)ruce  and  yel- 
low (!edar  attain  gieat  size  and  cover  the  shores  which  Tebenkoii"  represents  as 
moderately  low. 

A  second  l)ay  lies  just  west  of  Kazarn,  and  is  represented  as  unexplored. 
The  great  arm  running  to  the  westward  is  said  to  bend  to  the  norlliwest,  and 
finally  to  bend  to  the  north,  oiH'uing  again  upon  Clarence  Sound  in  latitude 
55°  40',  where  the  l{u.ssian  chart  has  an  anchorage,  and  another  live  miles  to  the 
southeast. 

"  Naiiinl  1)y  Vanooiivor  1793. 
tC'iillca  INiiiit  Cliarm  on  Adiiiiialty  Map  No.  'J»;i1. 


so 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


(Aim;  caamano. 

About  latitiitlc  .">o  !,'!»'  Clinfiicc  Soimd  irccivcs  tlic  Toiifjas  >iinr()\v.s  from 
t\w  Hontlicast,  and  tlii'  west  part  (»!'  licliiu  Canal  from  tlic  iioith-nortlicast. 

Tlic  point  Ivin;;  lictwccn  llic  west  sliort-  ol'  liclini  Canal  and  tlic  cast  shore  of 
('larcncc  Sound  was  iianu'd  Cape.  Caaniano  by  Vanconvfi',  but  its  position  was 
not  dcterinincd  l),v  observation.  It  is  wooded  to  the  water,  and  chjse  around  it 
are  roclcs.  Kroni  it  Point  lli;;>;ins  lies  east  by  south  half  south,  about  four  ndles 
(listant,  and  Orinchill  Ishind  south  58°  west,  about  four  miles.  From  Cape  Chacou 
it  is  ab(»ut  forty-six  miles  distant. 

I'OKT   STEWAUT.* 

Twelve  miles  north  of  Cape  Caamano,  on  the  western  shore  of  the  north  ai-m  of 
P.ehm  <'anal,  v,hi<'h  opens  into  the  east  side  of  Clarence  Sound,  in  latitude  .mO  ;U)', 
at  the  head  of  Tonkas  Narrows,  lies  Port  Stewart,  off  which  the  islet  three-eij;hths 
of  a  mile  ncuthwest  of  the  south  point  lies  in  latitude  r>rp  .'!S'  l.V,  louf^itudc 
l.'Uo  i')'.  From  the  south  point  the  north  i)oiut  bears  north  by  west  one  and  a 
half  miles. 

The  fAcneral  direction  of  the  bay  is  northwest,  and  the  deptli  two  miles;  l)ut 
the  upi)er  part  of  the  bay,  receiving;-  a  small  stream,  is  lu'arly  tilled  by  a  Hat  at  its 
western  part,  leavinji'  u  snndl  bay  in  the  north  part  landlocked,  with  fuun  six  to 
nltu>  fathoms  of  water  and  onequarter  of  a  mile  in  extent;  this  has  a  narrow 
channel  with  seven  fathoms  close  to  the  north  shore,  and  rocks  and  shoal  ground 
to  the  south  of  the  channel. 

The  islets  on  the  south  shore  are  nearly  connected  by  shoals  oidy  visible  at 
low  water;  but  good  entrance  may  be  had  in  fifteen  to  twenty  fatlnnns  to  the 
northward,  and  between  them  and  a  row  of  three  smaller  islets  on(i-quarter  of  a 
mile  oiV  the  northern  shore.  One-(piarter  of  a  mile  south  of  tlie  north  point  is  a 
rocky  jiatch  with  deep  water  all  around. 

On  the  sauu'  side  of  the  Behm  Canal,  six  miles  north  of  Port  Stewart,  lies  the 
oiiening  to  an  extensive  bay  running  four  miles  west-northwest,  with  islets  and 
rocks  in  the  entrance,  and  an  extensive  settlement  noted  at  the  head  on  Tebeu- 
kotf's  chart.     This  bay  lias  no  name  on  the  charts. 

Directly  east  of  Port  Stewart  lies  the  Traitor  Cove  of  Vancouver,  near  which 
his  boats  were  attacketl  by  the  Indians. 

The  southeastern  point  of  the  entrance  of  Ernest  Sound  into  Clarence  Sound 
is  called  Point  .Mesurier,  and  is  situated  in  latitude  .wO  4(i',  according  to  Vancou- 
ver, with  a  rock  lying  over  a  mile  west-ncrthwest  from  its  extremity.  This  point 
is  live  miles  long  by  one  or  two  wide,  and  stretches  well  into  Clarence  Sound; 
fiom  its  extremity  the  north  shore  runs  east  four  miles  to  the  entrance  of  a  small 
bay  not  yet  named,  and  running  to  the  s(aitheast  two  miles.  It  is  om?  of  the 
anchorages  of  the  Kussian  steamers. 


•  Nnmod  liy  Vancouvor  in  179."?. 


ALASKA  COAHT  Pir.OT. 


81 


Till'  low  wdodnl  jxiiiit  cMllctl  'I'oiikdi,  mi  tlic  wcstciii  side  of  CliirciK't'  Sdiiiiil. 
iiiiil  si'vcn  miles  wt'sl  ii<ii'tliw*>.st  iVoiii  I'oiiit  iMt'siiricr,  liii.s  iiii  imkIidi:!^!'  mi  tin- 
iKirtli  siilc,  iiltmit  one  mile  inside  the  point.  The  (h'plh  of  wiiler  1^  not  marlveil, 
Iiiit  TelieiikolV  pliK'es  aiielioiii^'e  oil'  the  iiorlh  shore  ol'  the  point.  This  point  lies 
iibrejist  of  the  mass  of  islamls  Imininy:  the  southern  point  of  York  Ishiiid.  (Duke 
of  York,  \'ancoii\ei',)  and  Claii'iice  Sound  is  Iktc  eontiacted  to  a  width  of  four 
miles. 

I''rom  Tonkoi  Point  tiie  sliore  runs  nofthwest  by  west  for  si\  mih's  to  the 
narrow  opening  <)!'  u  hii'^ie  basin  named  IJatstch  IJay,  whicli  Tebeiikolf  marks  as 
an  anchorage.     It  has  a  small  islet  in  the  entrance. 

Thence  northward  for  fifteen  miles  the  wcstein  shme  is  com]iact,  anil  the 
eastern  nnich  broken  to  I'oint  Stanhope,*  where  .lohnstmie  observed  the  latitude, 
/itio  02',  Tlu'  south  face  of  this  ]ioint  extends  two  miles  east  to  the  half  mile  wiiUi 
entrance  of  a  low^  bay  stretchin;;  seven  or  ei;;lit  miles  northward.  Oil  the  west 
side  of  I'oint  Stanhoiie  are  some  small  rocky  islets  and  rocks. 

Five  or  six  miles  northward  of  I'oint  Staidiope  N'ancmncr  aiu'lionnl  in  seven 
fathoms  water  on  the  north  sidi^  of  a  small  island,  close  under  the  shore.  This 
situation  is  tolerably  w(*ll  sheltered  from  the  southerly  and  southwest  wimis,  but 
the  souiidin}i;s  are  irrejj;ular  and  tlie  bottom  in  some  phi(;es  rocky. 

The  islands  between  Ernest  and  Clarence  Straits  were  called  Duke  of  Ymk 
Islands  by  Yancmiver,  but  on  the  Kussian  and  recent  admiralty  charts  lliey  are 
called  Etolin  Ishtiuis. 

In  latitude  ."iOo  l.V,  the  lar};e  arm  called  Sfikine  IStrait  makes  into  Clarence 
Sound  from  the  northeast.  This  strait  leads  to  the  mouth  of  the  Stikine  Itivei-  by 
two  arms  of  which  the  lar;;('r  or  more  direct  is  twenty-two  miles  lonj;  i)y  three 
or  four  wide.  Slcmncr  lia;/  lies  at  the  sontheast  point  of  tlu^  entrance;  no  sound- 
ings are  ^iveii,  and  a  manuscri))t  IJussian  chart  shows  the  ancliora^;!'  one  mile  in- 
side the  entrance  in  a  cove  on  the  west  shore,  .lust  inside  the  entranceto  thc^  strait 
lie  two  islands  on  the  south  shore,  and  anchorage  is  marked  on  the  south  side  of 
the  eastern  and  larger  island,  between  itan«l  the  shore.  Five  miles  within  the  en- 
trance, on  the  eastorn  shore,  is  the  ojioniiig  of  (Jiiict  Jiaif,  stretching  one  mile,  to 
the  south,  l)ut  no  soundings  are  gi\en. 

KTOIJN   IIAUHOIJ. 

There  is  no  station  immediately  at  the  mouth  of  Stikine  Iviver,  but  on  the 
northwest  part  of  \Yrangell  Island,  (Katchkhanna  on  Tebenkotf,)  about  two  and  a 
hall'  miles  smith  of  the  niu'thern  ])oint  of  the  island,  is  tlie  small  liaiboi'  of  I^tolin, 
in  latitude  5(>o  31' ;]()",  and  longitude  ];5lio  li.'i' ;i(»",  where  the  Uiissiaiis  formerly 
liail  a  stockaded  factory,  called  Saint  Dionisia.  The  harbor  is  very  contracted, 
only  live  hundred  yards  wide,  opens  to  the  northwest  and  runs  to  the  southeast 
for  about  six  hundred  yards,  but  has  good  soundings,  regularly  decreasing  from 
ten  fathoms  at  the  entrance,  to  three  and  a  half  well  inside  the  bay,  abreast  of  the 


U 


•  Niinieil  by  Viini'OTiver  in  17i);t. 


\ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Photographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTEH.N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


6^ 


82 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


Hiiiall  isliiml,  with  muddy  botioiii  from  tlu^  oiitiiiiico  iiparly  to  the  hoad.  A  plan 
of  this  is  Hivcii  in  the  Hussian  chart  Xo.  1(»  of  tlie  I'acilic  Ocean  series.  The 
United  States  military  post  Fort  \Vran{;ell  is  established  liere. 

The  United  States  steamer  Saginaw  jtlaces  this  i»ost  in  latitude  50°  L'7'  20" 
and  '.\°  04'  ;{0"  east  of  Sitlca,  or  l.'J-'o  V.V  l.V  w«'st.  Bat  this  ditl'ers  from  the  nearly 
concordant  jxtsitions  of  Tebenkoft"  and  the  "Devastation"  in  1802. 

POINT  IIIGIIFIELD. 

This  is  the  northern  extremity  of  Etolin  Lsland,  off  which  lies  a  small  par- 
tially wooded  islet  two  tliirds  of  a  mile  distant :  between  this  islet  and  tlie  point 
we  anchored  in  sixteen  fathoms,  muddy  bottom,  but  found  disaj^reeidde  counter 
and  sub-currents  runniufj.  A  sketch  of  this  anchorage  is  given  on  the  Admiralty 
Chart  No.  24;U,  wherci  the  position  of  the  islet  named  Limonoft'  is  stated  as  latitude 
r.OO  IV.V,  louf-itude  i;52c  22', 

From  tliis  islet  the  nnuith  of  the  Stikine  Hiver,  fronted  by  very  extensive 
sand  Hats,  lies  nearly  north  about  eight  miles  distant. 

KTIKINK   KIVKR. 

• 

About  three  miles  n(»rthnortheist  (approximately)  lies  a  small  islet,  one  mile 
off  Green  I'oint,  and  about  half  a  mile  east  of  the  opening  of  the  river  at  the 
south  edge  of  the  flats.  Under  this  islet  soundings  are  laid  down  in  ten  fathoms. 
The  general  course  of  the  river  through  the  flats  is  northward  fur  five  or  six  miles 
to  the  east  point  of  an  island  two  miles  long  north  and  south;  from  this  island  it 
bemls  due  east  two  miles  to  the  north  shore  of  I'oint  Kothsay.  These  extensive 
Hats  extend  westward  from  the  mainland  for  six  miles  to  the  numerous  islands 
four  miles  northwest  of  Point  Iliglilleld  and  to  the  large  island  of  Mityojf]  and 
thus  blocks  the  broad  passage  from  the  north  shores  of  Stikine  Sound  to  the 
s»»utiieast  i)art  of  Frederick  Sound,*  except  for  boats  at  high  water,  when  they 
l)ass  close  along  the  southeastern  shore. 

A  braiK^h  of  the  Stikine  opens  into  the  southeast  part  of  Frederick  Sound, 
about  latitude  50°  48',  but  it  has  not  been  explored. 

tiKNEUAL  BESC'Rll'TKlN   OF  THE   STIKK^E   RIVKIt. 

The  Stikine  is  the  largest  river  of  the  southern  p.u't  of  Alaska.  As  aftbvding 
the  best  means  of  reaching  the  interior,  for  the  gold  along  its  course,  and  its  being 
the  prosjiective  route  of  the  telegraph  to  Sitka,  it  is  Judged  advisable  to  collate  oil 
the  information  icadily  accessible. 

In  IS.ii  an  exiieditioii  was  fitted  out  at  iMirt  \  ancouver,  on  the  Columbia,  by 
the  Hudson's  IJay  Company,  to  establish  a  trading  ixtst  on  this  river,  but  tiie  Rus- 
sians established  a  bhtck-honse  at  the  nuaitli,  and  scut  a  corvette  to  prevent  this 
aggie,  sive  ixdicy  being  carried  out. 

The  headwaters  of  the  river  had  be(ui  explored  by  miners  from  California  and 

•  Pritiri'  l'>t'(1('riik'H  Soiinit  of  Vuiuoiivfr,  I70H. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


83 


British  Columbia  who  followed  tho  gold-bparing  zone  from  Frazer  River  to  the 
northward. 

In  1803,  a  Russian  expedition  under  Commander  Bassarguine,  of  the  eorvette 
Rynda,  explored  the  river  about  8ixty-t.iree  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  four  miles 
above  the  Litth^  Caiion. 

In  l.S(i5-'(»7  the  Russian  American  telegrapli  eomi)any  explored  the  interior, 
and  this  river  for  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  to  the  Jiald  ilills,  where  it 
is  said  to  make  its  great  bend  to  the  southward. 

This  river,  sometimes  erroneously  confounded  with  the  Frances  River  of  the 
interior,  is  usimlly  represented  as  running  nearly  east  and  west,  and  correctly 
as  heading  far  to  the  southward  of  its  mouth.  It  rises  by  two  branches,  one  to 
the  northeast  an  I  one  to  the  southeast,  and  from  their  juncticm  near  the  latitude 
of  57°  30'  it  ilows  almost  south  30',  then  west  and  southwest,  with  a  general 
antagonism  to  the  Coast  ranges  near  the  arcliii»eIago  Alexander. 

The  interior  of  the  country  apjiears  to  be  broken  into  a  siu-cession  of  sharjdy- 
deflned  mountain  ranges  separated  by  narrow  and  deep  valleys,  similar  to  those 
between  the  islands  of  the  coast.  In  fact,  the  topography  of  tho  jvlexander  Ar(!h- 
Ipelago  is  a  tji)e  of  that  in  the  interior.  A  subnu'rgence  of  the  mountain  region 
of  the  m.ainland  v/ould  give  a  similar  succession  of  islands  separated  by  deep  and 
narrow  fiords. 

It  api)ears  from  the  testimony  of  miners  who  have  ])enetratcd  far  into  the 
interior  in  search  of  gold,  that  there  is  a  broad  i)lain  stretching  northwest  and 
southeast,  which  separates  the  mouiitainous  z<me  of  the  coast  from  a  lofty  range, 
called  by  them  the  •' Blue  Mountains."  This  is  at  the  headwaters  of  the  iSV/A/xf! 
and  of  other  streams  that  cut  through  the  narrow  strip  of  our  recently  acquir(»d 
territory,  and  it  is  probably  the  main  dividing  range  or  prolongation  of  the  Rocky 
numntains. 

The  Stikine  rises  in  the  Creat  Plain  on  the  western  flank  of  the  Blue  Moun- 
tains, the  North  Fork  m'ar  Lake  Ketclnnn,  one  of  tli(^  sources  of  the  Tahco  River, 
and  the  South  Fork  near  the  headwaters  of  the  Skena  River.  It  runs  and  breaks 
through  the  mountains  a  lit  io  soutl:  of  the  parallel  of  Silka.* 

When  the  snows  are  melting  the  liver  becomes  much  swollen,  and  is  then 
navigable,  with  some  difliculty,  by  small  steamboats  for  one  hnniired  antl  twenty- 
five  miles  or  more  above  the  nu)ntli.  The  valley  is  generally  narrow,  and  is  not 
bordereil  by  a  great  breadth  of  alluvial  land,  excejit  near  the  first  great  bend  or 
turn  of  the  river,  where  it  breaks  through  the  numntains  of  the  coast.  At  this 
l)oint  there  is  a  broad  valley  extending  far  to  the  southeast,  along  which  Lulians 
can  travel  to  Fort  Simpson  in  six  days. 

Th  sides  of  the  mountain  ranges  are  steep  and  rugged,  and  are  covered, 
where  there  is  suflicient  earth,  with  a  dense  forest  of  conife ous  trees,  the  timber 


•TIiIh  account  in  taken  |>artl,v  iVoiii  tlimiiicorrcclcd  magnetic  olimrvafioiiM  of  Professor  lUnKc, 
and  li.v  no  iiicHiis  tiillics  in  any  inirliculiir  with  the  a^ll■'"Hlnlil■al  oliscivationH  of  Hir  \V.  I'.  T.  Kx. 
cxiiloi'ci'H.    Tlic  )icii(lwatci-K  arc  <'onfi>iin<lc(l  widi  tlic  'i'alico  IJivcr. 


84 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT, 


of  wliicli  is  thought  to  ho  siiporior  io  that  on  the  coast  for  spars  and  other  pur- 
poses. The  upiM'r  portions  of  tlie  high  ranges  and  peaks  are  covered  with  snow, 
and  are  truly  Alpine  in  their  character. 

The  narrow  strips  of  bottom  land  on  the  sides  of  the  river,  and  the  islands 
between  the  diflerent  channels  and  sloughs,  are  almost  all  low,  and  seem  to  be  lia- 
ble to  occasional  inundations.  The  soil  of  such  lands  is  loose  and  sandy,  but  fer- 
tile, and  su))j»ortH  a  vigorous  growth  of  alders  and  the  cottonwood,  or  an  allied 
species  of  jxtplar.  Thi^  i)o])lar  is  abiuidant  and  attains  a  large  si/e,  often  three 
feet  in  diameter.  The  wood  is  soft  and  lignt,  is  easily  wrought,  and  is  especially 
well  adapted  for  tiie  interior  i)ortions  of  cabinet  furniture.  The  Indians  use  this 
wood  for  their  ciuioes,  cutting  them  out  of  a  single  log.  Inniu'uso  numbers  of 
these  trees  are  carried  down  by  the  stream,  and  are  lodged  in  heaps  on  the  sand- 
bars and  islands,  or  are  left  as  snags  in  the  channel,  anchored  by  the  roots  and 
pointing  dovu  stream,  as  in  the  Mississippi.  The  broad  flats  at  the  month  of  tlio 
river  are  also  strewn  with  these  trees,  and  many  are  doubtless  carried  far  out  into 
the  sound. 

CURRENT  AND  NAVIGATION  OF  THE  STIKINE. 


Tlie  velocity  and  strength  of  the  current  throughout  the  whole  length  of  tins 
river,  excei>t  perhaiis  the  portion  above  the  (Jreat  Cafion,  is,  perhaps,  its  most 
renmrkable  feature.  Plenty  of  bars  and  riflles  over  which  the  current  sweeps 
down  with  great  uniformity,  ami  in  most  i)laces  is  so  swift  and  strong  that  it  is 
useless  to  attempt  to  nudic  headway  against  it  with  oars,  and  when  the  bed  or 
banks  are  not  suitable  tor  towing  or  tracking,  the  only  way  to  force  a  boat  up  is 
by  means  of  ]»oles,  taking  advantage  always  of  the  least  forcible  parts  of  the 
stream.  The  line  for  towing  a  boat  should  be  from  two  hundred  to  three  humlred 
feet  long.  The  velocity  of  the  current  was  measured  at  several  places,  and  in  the 
])ortions  of  the  river  below  the  Little  Cafion  i)robably  averages  five  miles  per 
hour,  and  in  the  lower  portion,  or  for  about  thirty  miles  above  the  mouth,  about 
four  miles  per  hour. 

The  depth  of  the  »vater  is  of  course  variable,  but  even  at  low  water  is 
seldom  less  than  three  feet  in  the  main  channel.  The  highest  Avater,  or  season  of 
the  greatest  lloodw,  is  in  the  month  of  July,  when  the  snow  is  melting  on  the 
mountains  most  niitidly  under  the  suniiiier  sun.  At  these  times  the  height  of  the 
river.  Judging  by  the  appearance  of  the  banks,  does  not  appear  to  be  very  greatly 
increased,  ju'obably  .:iit  more  than  six  feet;  but  the  water  spreads  out  over  the 
low  banks  and  islands,  and  the  stream  is  thus  greatly  changed  in  its  i'i>i)earaiice 
and  in  the  form  and  direction  of  its  banks.  Tiie  water  is  always  charged  with 
a  very  tine  light-colored  iKtwder  or  sediment,  so  that  it  is  ojiaipie  and  the  bottom 
of  the  stream  is  not  visible.  This  8usi»ended  material  is  i)robably  derived  from 
the  glaciers,  or  may  perhaps  be  washed  down  from  soft  stratified  formal  Ions  along 
the  sources  of  the  stream. 

Gold  can  be  found  in  small  quantities  by  ]mnniiig  the  drift  of  the  bed  and 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


85 


bars  of  the  rivor.  Tlio  "color"  is  iilniost  iiiviuiably  fouiul,  Imt  in  particlos  so 
iniiiiite  as  to  bo  (liHicult  to  soi'  aiuliiioic  diniciilt  to  savo,  Tliis,  of  course,  is  to  bo 
exjM'ctod  in  trialt,  of  the  sand  and  {jiavcl  from  the  surface.  It  is  what  is  termed 
"flour  }iold,"  and  to  collect  it  would  recpiirc  blankets,  (|uicksilvcr,  and  greater 
care  antl  attenti(m  than  is  generally  given  in  the  rajiid  methods  of  California. 
There  was  not  time  to  make  any  excavations  to  the  bed-rock,  where,  doubtless, 
the  coarse  gold  lies.  Very  good  results  can,  however,  be  obtained  in  the  layers  of 
gravel  above  it,  and  the  miners  infonned  me  that  they  seldom  attempted  to  reach 
the  bed-rock,  it  was  so  far  below  the  surface.  Some  of  the  best  rcvsults  of  their 
mining  were  obtained  in  a  layer  of  gravel  about  eighteen  inclu's  below  the  sur- 
face. This  eighteen  inches  of  gravel  is  skimmed  oil'  and  thrown  aside,  and  the 
next  five  or  six  inches  of  gravel  below  is  washed  in  cradles  or  rockers.  The  prin 
cipal  n)ining  at  Fiddler's  and  at  Carpenter's  bars,  in  bSfiU,  was  of  this  description. 
One  claim  of  two  hundred  feet  sipiare,  worked  by  two  men,  yielded  ^'J,0()();  and 
the  bars  are  reckoned  to  yield  from  §.'?  to  $10  a  day  to  the  hand.  Xearly  all  the 
bars  will  yield  from  $lto.$l  .10  per  day.  In  l.S(i7  the  miners  reported  on  the 
yield  to  be  from  $2  to  $7  per  day.  The  extent  of  paying  groun<l  is  much 
increased  at  the  river  falls,  and  doubtless  the  be«l  of  the  river  is  extremely  rich. 
Unfortunately  the  time  of  lowest  water  is  duiing  the  winter  months,  when  all  is 
locked  in  ice,  and,  of  course,  wasiiing  is  then  impossible. 

The  gold  from  the  north  foi'::  of  the  river  is  the  coarsest  which  has  yet  been 
found  or  reported  u]»on  the  Stikine,  (l.S()L'-'(i;{.)  One  lump  was  worth  $!)  75. 
Even  on  this  stream  the  bedrock  has  not  been  seen  except  at  one  or  two  places, 
and  it  was  believed  that  to  reach  and  work  the  gravel  u])on  it,  (h'rricks,  pnm])s, 
and  other  machinery  would  be  necessary.  The  miners  say  that  this  ntuth  fork  is 
subject  to  extensive  landslidt^s  along  its  course,  which  bring  masses  of  eartli  and 
rocks  into  the  stream  and  obstruct  it  until  the  force  of  accumulated  water  above 
sweeps  everything  clean  before  it. 

The  officers  of  the  Russian  exi)edition  were  impressed  in  as<!ending  this  river 
by  the  abseiu'c  of  any  well-defliu'd  terraces  or  old  dei)osits  of  drift   along  the 
mountain  sides  or  on  the  low  ridges.     Ko  terrace  was  seen  until  near  the  Little 
Canon,  where  they  are  well  defined  and  extend  for  a  mile  or  two  on  «'ither  one 
side  of  the  river  or  the  other,  and  they  are  also  found  aliove  tlie  ('af.o        They 
rise  some  fifty  feet  above  the  stream,  and  are  made  up  of  coarse,  heavy  drift.     If 
at  such  places  the  bed-rock  could  be  reached  above  the  level  of  the  river,  Ihc'- 
is  little  doubt  that  they  would  pay  well  for  working.    No  favorable  hill  or  oi^ 
diggings  have  yet  been  found  above.    An  exi»lanatioii  of  their  absence  may  T 
fouml  in  the  fact  that  the  valley  is  so  narrow  and  the  current  so  strong  tlnu  ■■'.'.' 
drift  accumulations  are  swept  away. 

The  gold  which  has  been  brought  by  the  Indians  from  _thc  Tahco  Itiver 
further  north  is  coarser  than  that  found  upon  the  Stikine. 


8(5 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


CLOrATE  OF  THE  STIKINE. 

At  the  time  of  the  lliissian  expedition — tlie  last  part  of  the  month  of  May — 
tlio  jtoplars  and  otlicr  dccidiums  trees  were  just  but'lins',  and  in  some  phiees  tho 
youn}^  leaves  had  spread  out.  The  nights,  tliongh  cold,  were  not  frosty;  tho 
thernionieter  seldom  imlicating  less  than  forty  degrees.  It  was  (|uite  hot  in  the 
sun  during  the  day,  though  in  the  shade  the  mercury  seldom  rose  above  sixty-flvo 
degrees.  It  is  niueh  hotter  in  midsummer.  At  Sitka,  in  the  same  latitude,  or  a 
little  north,  there  is  not  as  great  a  difference  between  the  summer  and  winter  as 
upon  the  Stikine.  The  winter  at  Sitka  is  not  severe,  and  in  1802  there  was  not 
a  crop  of  ice.  On  the  Stikine,  and  in  that  interior  valley,  shut  out  from  the 
influence  of  the  M'arm  ocean  current,  the  seasons  are  strongly  marked.  The  win- 
ters are  cold  and  the  summers  are  hot.  The  river  ia  reported  to  close  ia 
IJecember,  freezes  over  from  its  mouth  up,  and  reopens  in  May.  In  the  winter 
of  lH02-'(i3  it  was  open  as  late  as  L>ecember  17,  and  in  the  spring  the  ice  broke  up 
about  the  1st  of  Jlay,  and  the  previous  year  on  the  9th  of  May.  As  soon  as  the 
warm  days  of  spring  cause  tho  snows  to  melt  tho  river  begins  to  rise,  and  so 
breaks  up  the  ice.  There  is  then  a  short  season  of  rising  and  falling,  after  which 
come  the  continiu)us  floods  of  the  hot  months.  Very  little  rain  falls  during  the 
summer  in  the  upper  part  of  the  valley.  Little  or  nothing  was  known  in  1803 
of  the  climate  of  the  mountain  region  .it  the  head  of  the  Stikine.  At  the  mining 
cami)s  at  and  near  Shek's  Bar  the  winter  is  said  to  be  very  severe.  Snow  com- 
mences to  fall  in  October,  but  is  most  abundant  in  December,  and  covers  the 
ground  to  a  depth  of  from  four  to  fourteen  feet  or  more  all  winter.  In  1802  four 
feet  of  snow  on  a  level  fell  in  one  day.  In  December  the  mercury  sank  below 
zero,  and  in  February  was  solid  in  the  bulb  for  nine  days  coutinuonsly.  There 
was  no  thawing  or  rain  during  the  winter. 

It  is  iterhai)s  this  alternation  of  the  seasons  that  causes  the  timber  of  the  inte- 
rior to  be  superior  (according  to  report)  to  that  of  the  coast. 


FlSrt  AND  GASm. 

Salmon,  halibut,  and  other  good  fish  aboniul  at  the  mouth  of  the  Stikine. 
AVhen  the  salmon  ascend  the  river  in  June  and  .Inly  the  Indians  follow  and  catch 
them  in  great  numbers.  They  split  them  along  the  back,  remove  the  backbone, 
cut  them  in  long  strips,  and  dry  and  smoke  them.  When  well  cui-ed  they  are 
very  flue,  and  are  very  conveiuent  in  camp.  Ducks  and  geese  may  be  shot  ou 
the  river,  and  grouse  in  the  forests  of  the  shores.  Bears  are  plenty  in  the  moun- 
tains, and  the  numntain  sheei»  or  goat  in  the  rocky  places.  Beaver  and  otters 
are  taken  in  great  nund)ers  by  the  Indians  of  the  valley  and  its  tributaries. 

The  well-manned  boat  of  the  Russian  expedition  Avas  two  hours  and  a  half  in 
jiassing  the  canon.  The  sides  are  formed  of  precii»itoiis  cliffs  of  granite  roughly 
broken  out,  and  the  Mater  ruslies  between  them  with  great  force,  boiling  and 
whirling  as  at  llell  Gate  near  IS'ew  York,  when  the  tide  is  tlowing  rapidly.    On 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


87 


the  north  side,  for  a  part  of  the  way,  there  is  an  eddy  setting  up  stream,  of  which 
advantage  can  be  taken  in  ])assing  tlirough. 

Tlie  approach  to  this  canon  from  the  southward  is  marked  by  a  fine  conienl 
mountain  upon  the  east  side  of  the  river,  visible  for  a  great  distance,  and  marking 
the  i)08ition  of  the  lower  end  of  the  gorge  through  which  the  river  has  broken  its 
way.  It  has  been  named  the  "Cone  ^L)untain."  Some  of  the  ridges  which 
extend  from  it  project  upon  the  river  ami  are  composed  of  granite. 

About  forty  miles  below  this  cafion  the  river  turns  westward,  and  breaks 
through  the  Coast  Mountains  for  nearly  twenty  miles  to  the  mouth.  Tiie  total 
length  of  the  river  is  estinuited  at  about  three  hundred  miles,  and  up  to  the  Little 
(Janon  the  sketch  of  the  Bussian  exi)edition  shows  it  to  average  less  than  a  cpuir- 
ter  of  a  mile  in  width. 

The  river  is  also  renmrkable  for  the  glaciers  which  are  encountered  on  its 
right  bank,  no  less  than  four  being  found  between  the  mouth  and  Little  Canon. 
The  first  is  a  small  one  about  ten  miles  up  the  river,  and  has  retreated  from 
the  shore  a  mile  or  two  westward  between  the  mountains.  Jt  has  a  higli  inclina- 
tion, and  a  very  rugged  and  broken  surface.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Icewater  lUver, 
flowing  from  it,  is  a  i)oint  of  land  formed  of  coarse  river-drift,  containing  gold. 
Up  to  this  i)oint,  the  mountains  on  the  south  shore,  or  left  bank,  come  nearly  to 
the  water's  edge.  They  are  apparently  from  1,500  to  3,000  feet  high,  and  are 
heavily  timbered  with  flr  and  spruce. 

The  second  glacier  is  about  twenty-five  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river.  It 
faces  the  east,  presents  a  splendid  appearance  in  the  sunlight,  and  extends  f'jr 
about  two  miles  along  the  stream.  The  background  is  formed  by  beautiful  snow- 
covered  peaks,  from  between  which  the  glacier  issues,  but  its  source  cannot  bo 
seen.  The  slope  of  the  glacier  is  very  gentle,  and  the  vast  body  of  Tee  appears  to  bo 
unbroken  until  it  reaches  the  valley  of  the  iiver,  where  it  breaks  down  in  nmssivo 
ledges  and  pinnacles  of  the  purest  crystal.  The  foreground  ahmg  the  stream 
consists  of  an  ancient  Inoraine,  now  covered  with  trees,  anu)ng  whicli  willows  and 
pojdars  are  conspicuous  in  their  delicate  green  foliage  of  spring.  Some  very  largo 
blocks  of  granite  standing  in  the  river  bear  witness  to  the  vast  transjiorting  power 
of  ice  and  to  a  much  greater  extension  of  this  glacier  in  former  ])eriods. 

From  this  part  of  the  river  a  line  of  high,  rugged,  and  serrated  i)eaks  is  visi- 
ble on  the  right  or  eastern  side  of  the  valley,  and  at  a  considerable  distantje  from 
the  stream. 

The  aceunmlatious  at  the  foot  of  the  glacier  have  evidently  pushed  the  river 
outward,  and  they  have  acted  as  a  dam  to  the  waters,  which,  above  the  moraine, 
are  quite  deep  and  flow  smoothly. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  a  small  clear  stream  of  water  enters.  It 
comes  from  hot  springs  a  short  distance  up. 

Two  or  three  inlles  below  this  glaciei',  a  liroad  valley  opens  upon  the  left  bank 
of  the  river,  and  apparently  extends  far  to  tlie  southeast. 

The  thiid  glacier  is  about  seven  miles  above  the  preceding.    In  this  distance 


8,S 


ALASKA  COAST  IMLOT. 


tlio  rivor  is  very  crookeil,  the  valley  is  narrower,  larso  poplar  trees  arc  abundant 
alon^'  the  banks,  and  many  tliat  liave  been  uprooted  by  the  undennininjr  aetion  of 
the  stream  are  stranded  upon  tiie  sand  bars  and  alon;;'  the  shores. 

This  is  a  very  beautiful  {jhi«'i«'r,  tlctwiuff  fiom  a  valley  on  the  west.  It  is 
rennukable  for  its  syiiunetry,  regular  slope,  thiekness  of  the  ico,  and  for  the  con- 
trast with  the  dense  forest  (Ui  each  side  of  it,  and  with  the  belt  of  deeiduous  trees 
upon  the  bottom  land  in  front.  In  the  extrenu'  baekf;;round  there  is  a  maynilieent 
angular  peak  shrouded  with  snow. 

The  drift,  pebbles,  and  rocks  of  the  river-bed  at  this  point,  aiul  a  short  dis- 
tance above,  consist  chiefly  of  linu'stone,  porphyry,  aiul  Jasper,  with  some  masses 
of  (|uai'tz. 

Tlu^  fourth  Hlaeier  is  about  forty-six  miles  from  the  mouth. 

The  time  oecui)ied  by  the  Jvussian  itarty  in  desceiuliu}*- the  river  about  sixty- 
three  miles  was  seventeen  and  a  half  hours,  while  ascending  the  si;au>  distance  had 
required  eight  ilays  of  hard  exertion. 

KTIKIKE   SOUND. 

The  broad  sheet  of  water  leading  westward  from  the  Stikiue  River  to  the 
northeast  Dend  of  Clarence  Sound  is  juuned  Stikhie  Sound  by  Tebenkoff.  It  is  four 
ndles  wide  and  ab(»nt  twenty  miles  in  length,  with  a  larj>e  nund)er  of  islands  near 
its  eastern  end,  and  lying  directly  otf  the  Hats  of  the  Stikine  Ifiver. 

Several  anchorages  are  found  in  this  sound.  Ten  fathoms  is  laid  down  on 
the  east  side  of  the  southeast  ixiint  of  the  large  island,  lying  about  three  miles 
northwest  by  west  from  Toint  Ilightield.  On  the  northwest  side  of  Yank's  Island, 
two  or  three  miles  in  extent,  and  lying  live  miles  west  of  Point  Ilightield,  anchor- 
age is  noted,  but  no  depth  marked.  South  of  Vauk's  Islaiul  lie  two  iskU  oft"  the 
month  of  Jiatli  Harbor,  lying  eight  miles  west  by  south  half  south  from  Point 
Ilightield.  At  the  northwest  point  of  Zarembo  Island  is  a  number  of  islets,  ami 
on  tiie  east  side  of  them  there  is  anchorage  in  eighteen  fathoms. 

AVRANGKLL  STIfAIT. 

It  would  serve  no  practical  purpose  to  endeavor  to  describe  the  intricacy  of 
islands  and  sounds  south  of  Frederick  Sound  and  east  of  Chatham  Strait.  The 
nnii)s  that  are  already  published  mv,  good  guides  for  all  general  purposes.  There 
is  only  one  available  chaniud  between  Clarence  and  Frederick  Sounds  east  of  Cor- 
onation Islam],  ami  that  is  Wrangell  Strait,  opening  from  the  northwestern  part  of 
Stikine  Sound,  in  latitude  r>0o  3.V  and  longitude  Vi'2°  48'.  It  bears  north-north- 
east, distant  four  miles  from  the  east  end  of  the  large  island  lying  in  the  middle  of 
the  west  eiitraiu'c  of  Stikine  Sound.  It  is  tortuous,  very  narrow,  has  low  wooded 
shores,  broad  beacnes,  and  a  mid  channel  depth  of  not  less  than  four  or  Ave  fath- 
oms. A  .sketch  of  this,  on  a  large  scale,  is  given  on  sheet  Xo.  lOG  of  the  Russian 
charts  of  the  i'acilic  Ocean  series.  This  sketch  is  not  very  accurate,  but  it  can  be 
used,  esi»ccially  at  low  water,  when  a  i'ow  rocks  not  laid  down  upon  it  show  them- 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


89 


selves.  Tlie  United  States  st<>amer  Saginaw  and  other  government  steamers  have 
used  it.  Three  miles  west  of  Wrangell  Strait  is  the  entrance  to  Duncan  Channel, 
running  twenty-three  miles  north  and  north-northwest. 

From  the  north  end  of  Wrangell  Strait  is  visible  the  first  great  glacier  that  wo 
have  seen  upon  the  shores  of  these  waters,  althuugh  two  are  reported  even  south 
of  Port  Simpson,  on  tho  arms  jjenetrating  the  continent  in  that  vicinity.  Tiiis 
glacier  is  on  the  north  side  of  the  eastern  part  of  Frederick  Sound ;  and  from  two 
islands,  about  three  miles  northwest  of  Wrangell  Strait,  it  bore  nortli  by  west  dis- 
tant ten  or  fifteen  miles,  as  well  as  wo  could  judge  through  the  mist  an<l  rain. 
Eain  clouds  completely  enveloped  the  tops  of  the  mountains  between  whicli  it 
flowed.  It  was  seen  over  a  low  point  on  tho  north  and  east  side  of  the  sound,  and 
ai)parently  opened  upon  tho  shore  in  the  bay  east  of  Point  Vaiuleput,  about  lati- 
tude 57''  OG',  longitude  132°  54'.  In  this  vicinity  one  of  the  early  California  ice- 
ships  filled  with  glacier  ice  in  the  Avinter  of  185,'$-54. 

Anchorage  is  laid  down  on  tho  west  side  of  Point  Vandeput,  but  no  depth  is 
marked. 

At  the  northeast  bend  of  Clarence  Sound,  between  Stikine  Strait  and  Stikine 
Sound,  the  channel  is  mainly  occupied  by  large  islands,  and  the  usual  and  safest 
course  is  to  tho  esi  ^tward  of  them  and  close  under  tho  southwest  shore  of  Zarembo 
Island.  At  the  northern  part  of  this  group  the  channel  is  less  than  a  mile  in 
Avidth.  Tills  group  has  been  surveyed  in  detail  by  tho  Ilussian  com[)any,  and  is 
well  reduced  on  Admiralty  Chart  No.  2431. 

In  the  northernmost  part  of  Clarence  Sound,  whore  it  is  from  five  to  ten  miles 
wide,  and  twenty-three  miles  east  and  west,  there  are  two  bays  on  tho  south 
shores. 

BED  BAY. 

The  opening  to  this  bay,  resorted  to  by  the  trading  vessel  ■!,  is  situated  at  the 
northeast  point  of  Prince  of  Wales  Archipelago.  It  "s  represent<?d  as  five  miles 
long  north  and  south,  and  from  a  half  to  a  mi^le  wide.  No  depth  is  given,  and  tlio 
anchorage  is  marked  at  the  entrance.  Four  miles  north  of  Red  liny,  near  the  mid- 
dle of  the  sound,  is  a  rock,  which  is  covered  at  high  water.  Around  it  are  sound- 
ings from  twelve  to  forty-four  fathoms  over  a  rocky  bottom. 

Port  I'rotection,  sixteen  miles  west  of  Hod  Bay,  and  at  tho  northwest  bend  of 
Clarence  Sound,  is  described  in  another  place. 

OAPE   CHACON.* 

Returning  to  Dixon  Sound,  ami  following  its  northern  shores  and  the  Pacific 
coast  northward  to  the  great  straits,  we  first  notice  this  cape,  of  which  we  can  find 
no  description.  In  Juno,  1789,  Meares  placed  Capo  Irving  in  latitude  54°  40',  and 
described  it  as  a  "high  bluff,"  probably  this  cape.  We  passed  close  to  it  in  thicik 
weather  and  subsequently  saw  it  at  a  distance.    It  forms  the  southwest  point  of 


12 


'  Named  by  Caamaus. 


r 


90 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


the  Houthoni  ontraiioe  of  C'larPiico  Souiitl,  is  wooded  to  the  water,  and  bacrked  by 
high  wooded  inountaiiiH  to  the  iioitliward.  ; 

Tebeiikott"  placeH  it  in  hititude  54°  42J'  and  longitude  131°  54',  evidently  fol- 
lowing the  Russian  dmrt  No.  10,  of  the  Pacific  series  published  in  1848.  It  lies  in 
the  same  parallel  as  (y'apes  Kyg.'ine  and  Nunez  and  Point  Wales. 

Two  miles  southwest  of  it  lies  a  shoal  or  reef,  and  twelve  miles  south  70°  east 
the  Devil's  Bank,  with  one  rocky  islet  and  other  dangers  around. 

CAPE   NUNEZ. 

Six  miles  west  of  Capo  Chacon  lies  this  point,  while  between  the  two  a  deep 
broad  bay  makes  six  miles  to  the  northward,  and  has  two  large  islards  at  the  west- 
ern side.  A  mile  west  of  the  cape  lies  a  rocky  islet  with  rocks  between  it  and  the 
shore.  This  cape  is  the  eastern  point  of  the  oi)ening  of  Cordova  Bay,  and  is 
placed  by  Tebenkoff  in  latitude  54°  42',  longitude  132°  05'. 

CORDOVA  BAY. 

Between   Cai>e  Nunez  and  Cape  ICygane,  eighteen  miles  westward,  is  an 

extensive  unexplored  bay  called  Cordova,  extending  northward  into  the  Prince  of 

Wales  Islaiul  alxmt  fifteen  miles  and  filled  with  wooded  islands,  bare  islets,  and 

rocks.     From  the  northwestern  jiart  of  this  bay  an  unexplored  strait  named  lleoak 

is  said  to  lead  to  the  southeasternmost  arm  of  the  extensive  waters  called  Buca- 

relli  Bay  or  Sound, 

CAPE  kyoAne. 

This  is  the  extreme  southwestern  i)oint  of  the  Territory  of  Alaska.  Tebenkoff 
gives  a  very  indistinct  view  of  it  at  a  distance  of  twenty  miles,  when  bearing 
north  45°  east.  On  the  11th  of  August,  18G7,  we  saw  the  cape  within  the  distance 
of  a  mile,  but  covered  with  rain  clouds  very  low  down.  A  view  of  it  as  it  then 
appeared  is  given.  No  description  of  this  important  headland  has  been  discovered 
among  the  old  or  recent  navigators.  The  immediate  shores  were  comparatively 
low  and  rocky,  but  covered  with  heavy  sin-uce  to  the  edge  of  the  bluffs ;  the  out- 
line of  the  shores  to  the  northwest  appeared  much  broken,  and  of  similar  forma- 
tion to  the  point.  The  water  around  the  cape  appeared  bold,  but  showed  strong 
current  markings  inside  our  position,  which  was  about  one  mile  distant. 

TcbeidvotV  places  it  in  latitude  54°  42',  longitude  132°  39',  but  our  observa- 
tions made  near  it  gives  the  longitude  132°  43' .8.  La  Perouse  placed  it  in  lati- 
tude 54°  40',  but  he  did  not  approach  it  within  twelve  miles.  He  says  that  from 
Forrester  Island  eastward  towards  Cape  Kygi'me,  and  across  the  North  Cape  of  the 
Queen  Charlotte  group,  he  found  no  bottom  with  one  hundred  and  twenty  fathoms, 
even  a  league  from  shore ;  but  his  course  is  laid  down  southward  and  westward 
of  Cape  Kygane. 

Between  Cape  Kygiine  and  North  Cape,  forming  the  northwest  point  of  the 
Queen  Charlotte  group,  lies  the  entrance  of  Dixon  Sound.  From  Cape  Kygane 
the  North  Cape  bears  south  39°  west,  distant  twenty-eight  miles. 


■ 


( 


I  mmP'. 


I 


f 


I 


I' 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


J)l 


In  this  «iitraiice,  La  PciOhhc  miyH  thiit  during  the,  night  ho  crossod  curronts 
in(  re  nipid  than  ho  had  over  niut  in  the  open  Hen,  and  no  hottoin  witii  ont^  hun- 
dred and  twenty  fathoms  of  line.  DoiiglaNH  (irossed  the  houiuI  from  Cape  lvy<jane 
towards  tiie  eastern  part  of  Queen  Chariotte  Ishinds,  and  when  lying  to  in  the 
hazy  night  had  80uudiug.s  in  sixty  to  eighty  fathoms  over  a  sandy  bottom. 

KYOAnE   HARBOIl. 

On  the  oast  side  of  Cape  Ky-T'i"o,  and  about  two  and  a  half  miles  northward 
of  its  extremity,  after  passing  a  A'>.  ♦  number  of  islets  chtse  along  shore,  three 
harbors  open  to  the  eastward  upon  Cordova  Uay,  and  two  and  a  half  miles  wt'st  of 
the  southern  point  of  the  firs!  'urge  i.'-land  {unnamed)  in  the  bay.  The  soundings 
in  the  approaehes  to  the  hai  -oin  are  about  forty  fatiioms.  The  southern  haibor  is 
about  three-eighths  of  a  mile  wide,  runs  weit-nin-thwest  for  one  and  a  half  mile, 
and  has  a  large  islet  inside  and  !i. wards  the  southern  shore.  Up  to  this  islet  the 
soundings  are  not  less  than  tliirty  fathoms,  and  thence  gradiudly  deereaso  towards 
the  head. 

The  second  entrance,  less  than  half  a  mile  north  of  the  southern  one,  is  tlie 
opening  into  two  arms  of  one  bay,  divided  by  a  long  narrow  island  lying  west- 
uorthwest.  The  southern  arm  is  that  used  as  an  anchorage,  is  one  mile  deep  and 
less  than  a  quarter  of  a  milo  wide,  with  soumlings  of  six  fathoms  at  the  entrance, 
increasing  to  sixteen  fathoms,  and  then  diminishing  to  eight  at  the  head,  where 
there  is  quite  a  snug  boat  cove  on  the  south  side,  and  a  luurow  i)assage  to  the 
northern  arm  on  the  north  side. 

The  northern  arm  or  harbor  has  almost  the  same  dimensions  as  the  other, 
with  deeper  water  at  the  entrance,  (twenty-eight  fathoms,)  and  a  basin  with  six  to 
eight  fathoms  at  the  head. 

The  anchorage  in  the  middle  harbor  or  soiitlicrn  arm  of  the  two  northern  har- 
bors is  placed  in  latitude  54°  4G',  and  longitude  132°  4't'  .'50",  according  to  the 
sketch  of  Etolin,  given  on  the  Ilnssian  Chart  No.  10  of  the  Pacific  series  published 
in  1848.  It  is  also  in  Tebenkoff,  wh»)  gives  54°  42'  and  130°  30'  as  the  position,  in 
the  sketch,  but  on  the  general  chart  it  is  placed  in  54°  47'.  The  former  position 
■was  determined  by  Kruzott'in  1824. 

The  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide  is  stated  to  be  sixteen  feet.  About  five  miles 
north  of  the  islet  off  the  southeast  point  of  Kygiine  harbor  and  along  the  siime 
shore  lies  Ameficau  Bay,  with  a  huge  islet  off  its  southeast  point,  and  a  sandier 
islet  under  its  northeast  poiit,  with  anchorage  in  eighteen  fathoms  to  the  south- 
westward  of  this  islet.  Two  or  three  smaller  bays  and  islets  are  passed  along  the 
intermediate  shore,  opposite  American  Bay ;  the  strait  is  about  three-<iuarters  of  a 
mile  wide. 

BAZAN  BAY. 

The  west  shore  of  Cape  Kygi'ine  is  indented  by  many  small  bays  open  to  the 
ocean  swell.  In  latitude  'ti°  48',  eleven  miles  west-northwest  of  the  cape,  is  the 
entrance  to  the  large  bay  of  Bazau,  divided  into  two  by  the  large  island  called 


92 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


Dolgoi  or  Long  Island,  about  half  a  mile  wide,  and  fonr  or  five  long  east  and 
west. 

The  bay  is  tliree  miles  wide  at  the  entrance,  and  stretches  eight  miles  east- 
northeast,  and  at  its  head  is  filled  by  a  large  number  of  small  ishnids.  Between 
the  south  shore  and  Long  Island  the  width  of  the  bay  is  about  one  mile,  and  from 
the  southwestern  point  of  the  entrance,  called  Point  Bazan,  runs  east-northeast 
for  five  miles,  having  soundings  of  twenty  fiithoms  in  the  entrance,  with  ten  to 
fourteen  until  the  east  end  of  the  island  approaches  a  point  from  the  south- 
ern shore,  Avhen  a  depth  of  eight  fatluuns  is  found  in  the  i)asvsage  half  a  mile 
wide.  Tlie  anchorage  is  to  the  east  of  this  point  of  the  nuiin,  with  bottom  in 
lifteen  fathoms.  The  '{ussiau  navigators  inform  us  that  in  southwest  gales  a 
heavy  swell  rolls  into  this  bay,  which  is  exposed  directly  to  the  ocean,  yet  the 
sketch  would  indi(!ate  that  perfectly  safe  anchorage  is  to  be  had  in  the  position 
indicated. 

Tebenkoft"  places  Cape  Bazan  in  latitude  54°  48',  and  longitude  i;}2o  54',  and 
states  the  rise  and  fall  of  tide  at  fourteen  feet.  He  gives  a  rough  sketch  of  it  in 
chart  No.  9  of  his  atlas. 

rOKEESTEU    ISLAND.* 

The  south  end  of  this  island  lies  in  latitude  54°  48',  longitude  133°  29',  distant 
thirty  miles  west,  12°  north  from  Cape  Kygane,  sixteen  miles  broad  off  the  coast, 
and  twenty  miles  soxith  of  Cape  Bartolomo.  Tebenkoff  lays  it  down  as  a  high 
island,  five  miles  long  by  one  and  a  half  mile  wide,  with  rocks  off  the  south  end, 
and  rocks  and  an  islet  off  the  north  end.  We  passed  it  in  the  night  of  the  11th  of 
August  in  thick  rainy  weather,  and  got  a  very  iiid'stinct  glimpse  of  it.  The  fol- 
lowing description  is  from  Meares,  August  13  1788 : 

"  Douglas  Island  is  a  small  island  about  two  miles  in  circumference,  and  there 
are  two  or  three  small,  low,  and  rocky  islands  lying  oft"  its  ntnth  and  south  ends. 
It  is  very  high,  and  covered  with  verdure,  and  may  be  seen  at  tlie  distance  of  six- 
teen or  seventeen  leagues.  It  lies  ten  leagues  from  the  main  land,  in  the  latitude 
of  540  58',  and  longitude  133°  17'." 

Dixon  does  not  refer  to  it  in  his  narrative,  but  named  it  Forrester  Island  in 
his  view  and  in  his  map,  where  he  locates  it  in  latitude  55°,  and  longitiule  133° 
42'.  In  the  sketch,  where  it  is  represented  as  a  high  island  with  several  rounded 
hills,  he  places  it  in  latitude  55°  12',  and  longitude  133°  42'. 

Vancouver  simply  calls  it  a  small  high  island.  Tebenkoft'  gives  a  poor  view 
of  it  at  the  distance  of  twenty-five  miles. 

MaTirelle  in  1775  named  it  San  Carlos  Island,  and  La  P(^rouse  says  he  saw 
them  at  a  distance  of  three  leagnies  ;  the  largest  lies  southeast  and  northwest  and 
may  be  two  leagues  in  circumference.  He  determined  the  latitude  of  the  south 
])oint  to  be  54°  48',  and  to  tbe  north  of  this  island,  three  miles  long,  he  has  laid 
down  two  other  islets  reaching  to  54°  58'.  His  shores  hence  to  the  northward  art 
very  erroneous.    See  notes  on  Wolf  Kock. 

*  NiHucd  Ity  Dixon  in  1787,  after  his  steward. 


i 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


WOLP  BOCK. 

In  latitmle  H'P  01',  longitude  13,3°  24',  Tebenkoff  lays  down  a  small  islet  and 
rocks  nine  miles  north  17°  east  from  the  north  end  of  Forrester  Island. 

Meares  says,  August  1788 : 

"Between  Forrester  Island  and  the  main  (to  the  northward)  there  is  another 
of  lesser  extent,  which  is  rocky,  barren,  and  almost  level  with  the  water.  Between 
these  two  islands  we  steered  a  course  east-southeast  by  compass,  but  could  get  no 
soundings  with  fifty  fathoms  of  line." 

Vancouver  describes  it  thus : 

"  From  Ca])e  Bartolomo,  in  latitiule  5'^°  12i',  south  21°  east,  distance  fourteen 
miles,  and  twelve  miles  from  the  nearest  shore,  lies  a  very  low,  flat,  rocky  islet, 
surrounded  by  rocks  and  breakers,  that  extend  some  distance  from  it." 

From  its  isolated  position  he  considers  it  "one  of  the  most  dangiu'ous  impedi- 
ments to  navigation  that  he  had  met  with  on  the  exterior  coast,  and  hence  it 
obtained  the  name  of  the  Wolf  Kock." 

La  Perouse  says : 

"A  long  chain  unites  Forrester  Island  to  some  other  islets,  (the  "Wolf  Ilock,) 
verj^  small  and  low,  which  extend  a  considerable  Avay  into  the  channel,  (/'.  c,  north- 
eastward.) But  there  are  no  known  obstructions  between  the  Wolf  Ktxik  and 
Forrester  Island ;  we  passed  between  them  at  night  in  August,  18()7 ;  the  track  of 
the  Russian  trading  vessels  is  between  them ;  Meares  got  no  bottom  with  fifty 
fathoms  between  them." 

It  was  called  the  Isla  Rasa,  or  Low  Island,  by  the  Spaniards. 

PORT  smAEES. 

The  meagre  description  of  this  bay  by  Douglas,  in  1788,  hardly  enable^  iis  to 
recognize  the  bay  by  the  charts.  The  south  point  of  entrance  is  about  twenty 
miles  northwest  half  west  from  Cape  Kygaue,  and  fourteen  miles  east  half  north 
from  the  north  end  of  Forrester  Island.  On  Tebenkoft''s  chart  the  two  points  of 
entrance  lie  nearly  three  miles  apart,  and  north  and  south  :>f  each  other.  Tin?  bay 
lies  about  northeast,  and  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  wide,  with  two  islets  inside, 
about  a  mile  apart  northeast  and  southwest  of  each  other,  and  in  n.'d-channel;  but 
in  another  Russian  chart  they  are  placed  near  the  iu)rthern  sh()r(^  The  bay 
stretches  into  the  land  and  then  branches  into  two  arms,  one  leading  to  the  north- 
east and  the  other  a  little  east  of  north. 

This  agrees  with  the  description  of  Douglas,  but  nobody  could  jiossibly  make 
anything  out  of  his  sketith.  In  his  narrative  he  says  they  discerned  tlie  opening 
to  the  bay  when  east  of  Forrester  Island,  and  when  up  to  it  they  "got  within  a 
8U)all  islaiul  that  lies  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  main  land,"  and  drifting  down 
on  the  island,  which  was  under  thei*'  lee,  the  ship  was  towed  by  canvas  higher  up 
the  bay,  when  they  "dropped  anchor  in  vwenty-three  fathoms,  with  a  bottom  of 
sand  and  shells."    In  this  position  the  vessel  is  landlocked  about  a  mile  from  tlie 


94 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


western  shore,  except  being  exposed  to  four  points  between  east-northeast  and 
east-southt'iist,  (by  compass.) 

By  observation  he  placed  tlie  ancliorage  in  54°  51'^  but  on  Tebenkoff  the  north 
point  of  entrance  is  in  54°  57',  and  the  south,  in  54°  M';  the  cuter  islet  is  in  57°  50J'. 

In  latitude  55°,  twenty-six  miles  north,  00°  west  from  Ins  position  of  Cape 
Kygane,  I;a  I'crouse  lays  down  Cape  St.  Augustin,  but  no  such  promontory 
exists.  From  a  thonmgh  study  of  La  Perouse's  narrative,  and  by  plotting  his 
positions  on  Tebenkotl',  we  iiud  no  reliance  can  be  i)laced  ui)on  his  general  shore- 
line and  positions. 

CAPE  BAUTOLOMO. 

Forrester  Island  and  the  "Wolf  Eock  are  nearly  on  the  prolongation  of  the 
long,  narrow  peninsula  stretching  southward  and  terminating  in  Cape  Bartolomo, 
in  latitude  55°  12',  longitude  i;}3o  33',  to  the  eastward  of  which  peninsula  lies  a 
large  archipelago,  in  large  part  ex])lored,  through  which  the  Russian  vessels  are 
accustonu'd  to  i)ass.  Tiie  cape  is  called  Chirikoff  on  some  of  the  Russian  charts. 
Close  to  its  southern  extremity  are  uuirked  sunken  rocks  with  very  deei)  water 
outside. 

This  cape  is  the  southwest  point  of  the  southern  entrance  to  Bucarelli  Sound. 
From  it  the  southeast  point,  named  Cape  Saint  Felix,  with  a  small  islet  on  its 
southwest  face,  lies  six  miles  south  12°  east.  The  indications  on  TebenkofiPs  chart 
that  Bartolomo  is  comparatively  low  and  wooded,  and  that  for  nine  miles  nearly 
north  the  i)eniiisula  is  only  a  mile  across.  Saint  Felix,  on  the  contrary,  is  backed 
by  a  mountain  two  miles  to  the  north-northeast. 

BUCARELLI  SOUND. 

The  sound  eastward  of  the  large  island  of  which  Cape  Bartolomo  is  the  south- 
ern termination  is  vei-j'  extensive  and  filled  with  large  islands,  between  which 
l)ass  wide  channels  with  deep  water. 

The  channel  between  Capes  Bartolomo  and  St.  Felix  is  four  or  five  miles 
wide,  with  bold  water  close  to  either  shore.  Its  general  direction  is  north  by  east 
for  seven  miles,  then  northeast  twelve  miles  to  the  west  point  of  the  largo  island 
of  Saint  John ;  and  the  usual  course  is  on  the  northwest  side  of  this  island.  A 
great  number  of  largo  bays  arc  found  along  the  shores  of  the  numerous  islands  in 
tliis  sound.  The  usual  anchorage  of  the  trading  steamers  is  in  Dolores  Bay,  which 
opens  to  the  north,  and  lies  ten  miles  to  the  north  and  east  of  Cape  Bartolomo ;  it 
is  two  miles  deep  by  one  and  a  half  wide ;  but  the  first  bay  inside  the  capes  is 
Santa  Crnz,  o]»ening  to  the  west  four  miles  north  of  Capo  Felix ;  rocks  lie  half  a 
mile  off  the  northwest  |)oint  of  the  entramt'  of  this  bay,  which  is  three  miles  deep 
and  over  tme  mile  wide,  with  soundings  from  twenty  to  ten  fathoms. 

The  whole  sound  is  too  extensive  to  be  described  at  this  Www  in  d(^tail.  From 
Caite  Bartolomo  its  eastern  extremity  is  about  twenty-tlve  miles  east-northeast, 
and  the  northern  entrance,  among  several,  is  twenty-five  miles  nctarly  north  of 


ALASKA  COAST  riLOT. 


95 


' 


Bartolomo.  From  its  southeastern  waters  at  tlie  eastern  part  of  Ulloa  Channel 
the  Ileoak  Strait  runs  south-southeast  to  the  northwest  part  of  Cordova  Bay. 
Near  the  northern  extremity  a  channel  stretches  eastward,  and  then  to  the  north- 
northwest  by  the  Schakhin  Strait  to  the  Otter  Sound  of  Douf^las,  in  latitude  55° 
54',  and  ten  miles  east-southeast  from  Capo  Pole,  at  the  north  entrance  to  Clar- 
ence Sound. 

Eight  miles  east  of  Capo  Felix  is  another  entrance  to  this  sound ;  and  the 
northwest  part  of  the  sound  can  be  entered  by  several  channels  not  yet  thoroughly 
explored.  Tebenkoff  and  the  Admiralty  Chart  No.  2i'M  give  the  general  featiues 
of  the  sound;  and  Sarytcheft's  large  Russian  atlas  of  1 820  gives  in  detail  the  sound- 
ings throughout  the  shores.  Sarytcheff  erroneously  credits  the  whole  exploration 
to  La  Perouse.  Tliis  sound  is  Puerto  del  Bayli  Bucarellio  of  Quadia,  1775,  .and 
deserves  thorough  exploration. 

CAPE  ADDINGTON. 

This  cape  is  the  westernmost  of  the  island  forming  tln>  western  boundary  of 
Bucarelli  Sound,  and  lies  seventeen  miles  north  28°  west  from  Capo  Bartolomo. 
"A  conspicuous  promontory"  (Vancouver  III,  2!)9)  laid  down  by  Tebenkott'  in 
latitude  55°  27i',  and  longitude  IS3°  45',  described  by  IMeares,  from  the  journal  of 
Douglas,  as  a  high  bluff"  laud  lying  iu  latitude  55°  28',  longitude  11VA°  3!)',  and 
forming  the  south  point  of  a  great  bay  lying  east  of  the  line  joining  this  capo 
and  Coronation  Island.  No  name  having  been  applied  to  this  bay,  we  have 
designated  it  as  IiMgenia  Bay,  after  Douglas's  vessel. 

To  this  point  Meares  applied  the  name  Cape  Adamson.  According  to  La 
Pdrouse's  view  it  was  visible  at  a  distance  of  forty-iive  miles  from  the  northwest 
when  he  was  oft"  the  Hazy  Isles. 

Between  Cape  Bartolomo  and  Addington  recent  charts  indicate  a  passage 
from  the  sea  to  the  waters  of  the  sound  in  the  bight  four  or  five  miles  east-south- 
east of  the  latter,  so  that  when  niiide  from  the  westward  the  land  adjoining  the 
two  capes  appears  to  rise  as  two  islands,  as  indicated  in  La  P<;rouse'8  chart. 

From  Cape  Addington  the  Avesteru  end  of  Coi'onation  lies  north  .'50°  west, 
thirty-one  miles  distant;  and  Cape  Ommaney,  at  the  western  side  of  the  entrance 
to  Chatham  Strait,  lies  nearly  on  the  same  course,  at  a  distance  of  fifty  miles.  It 
will  thus  be  seen  that  Capes  Bartolomo,  Addington,  Coronation  Island,  and  Capo 
Ommaney,  lie  nearly  on  the  same  course,  which  is  tho  general  trend  of  the  outer 
coast  and  headlands  from  Capo  Kygane,  in  54o  42',  to  Cape  Fairweather,  in 
58°  51'. 

Il'HIGENIA  BAY. 

This  great  bay  lies  eastward  of  the  line  joining  Capo  Addington  and  Cape 
Barnett,  thirty-oiui  miles  south  27°  east,  and  soutli  27°  west  of  each  other:  and 
from  the  middle  of  that  line  the  eastern  shores  lie  twenty  miles  to  the  northeast- 
ward.   From  Capo  Addington  the  general  trend  of  the  shores  of  the  islands  form- 


mamammmmm 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


iiig  tliP  southeast  shore  of  Iphif^oiiiii  Bay  and  the  north  boundary  ot  Bncarelli 
Sonn<!  is  northeast  for  twenty  niik's,  where  numerous  ro('ks  are  hiid  down,  aud 
Avhere  various  eliannels  auionj;'  the  islands  h'ad  into  the  northern  i)art  of  Buearelli 
Sound  and  into  the  southern  entrance  of  Schakhin  Strait ;  thence  north-northwest 
about  twenty  niiU's  along  a  sliore  indented  by  bays  and  guarded  by  islets  to  the 
Otter  Sound  aud  the  north  entrance  of  the  Schakhin  Strait;  then  west  by  south 
twenty  miles  to  Cape  Barnett,  forininy  the  west  point  of  Coronation  Island,  and 
broken  by  the  north  entrance  to  Clarence  Sound.  In  1784  La  Perouse  called  the 
islands  extending  eastward  from  Coronation  Island  the  Spanish  Islands. 

OTTEU  SOUND. 

This  sound  was  entered  by  Douglas  in  1788,  and  it  is  iudged  that  his  point  of 
entrance  lies  in  the  northeastern  i)art  of  Iphigenia  Bay,  about  latitude  54°  50'  on 
Tebenkoll's  chart,  behind  an  island  two  or  three  nules  long,  and  one  mile  from  the 
nuiin  shore.  Douglas  says  that  "having  run  a  considerable  way  up  the  bay 
(Iphigenia)  they  >  itered  the  mouth  of  a  straight  passage,  not  more  than  half  a 
mile  across  from  shore  to  shore,  steering  north,  (compass.)"  By  the  number  of 
whales  which  were  blowing  a  long  way  within  the  passage,  it  was  evident  there 
was  plenty  of  Avater  for  the  ship.  At  eight  in  the  evening  they  anchored  in  seven- 
teen fathoms  over  a  sandy  bottom,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  shore.  In  this  situa- 
tion the  ship  was  entirely  land-h)cked,  except  at  the  entrance,  and  the  anchorage 
was  named  Sea-otter  harbor.  In  p'  'ling  up  the  bay  a  passage  was  discovered  out 
to  sea,  and  so  the  ship  lay  on  the  east  side  of  an  island,  and  it  Avas  evident  that 
the  land  forming  the  straits  to  the  north  consisted  of  islands.  In  three  or  four 
Ikhu's'  i)ulling  from  the  shij),  and  sounding,  two  arms  of  the  straits  were  found, 
one  stretching  towards  the  north  and  the  other  to  the  east-southeast,  (both  coui- 
l)ass.)  The  eastern  arm  is  perhaps  the  north  entrance  of  Schakhin  Strait,  and  the 
northern  leads  to  a  long,  unnamed  iidet.  On  his  chart  Meares  desigiuites  these 
wat(!rs  as  Otter  Soiiiul.  When  Douglas  left  the  mouth  of  tlie  harbor  Cape  Bar- 
nett bore  southwest  by  west  half  west  (compass,)  aud  Cape  Addiugtou  south- 
by  west  half  west,  (compass.) 

The  Admiralty  Chart  No.  2431,  and  Russian  Chart  No.  107,  1848,  have  an 
anchorage  in  a  cove  on  the  north  face  of  the  island,  first  north  of  Seaotter  harbor 
and  southwest  of  the  entrance  to  Schakhin  Strait ;  no  souudiugs  given  ;  latitude 
54°  .W ;  island  about  two  miles  in  extent.  In  a  late  Avork  Sea-otter  Harbor  has 
been  erroneously  placed  in  Bncarelli  Sound,  but  the  foregoing  examinatiou  clearly 
establishes  its  approximate  position. 

NOUTIIWEST  ENTRANCE  CLARENCE  SOUND. 

This  entrance  may  be  said  to  lie  betAveen  Capes  Pole  aud  Decision,  lying  ten 
or  eleven  miles  Aveat-nortliAvest  aiul  east-sontheast  of  each  other,  Avith  the  large 
islands  Warren  and  Coronation  lying  southAvest  broad  off  the  entrance,  and  form- 
ing several  channels  thereto. 


ALASIt^V  COAST  PILOT. 


97 


Cape   Decision,  on  the  west,   lies  in   latitude  50°  03',  and   Capo   Polo  in 

Coronation  Island  lies  five  miles  south  of  Cape  Decision,  with  some  largo 
islands  between  them,  bnt  attbrding  a  passage  one  and  a  half  mile  wide  between 
the  cape  and  the  nearest  island  by  which  vessels  pass  between  Cliatham  and  Clar- 
ence Sounds.  Admiralty  Chart  No.  2431,  and  Kussian  Chart  No.  10,  have  the  west- 
ern entrance  south  of  the  first  island  lying  oil"  Cape  Decision ;  and  Tebenkott"  has 
an  anchorage  on  the  east  side  of  the  first  island  north  of  the  west  pi»int  of  Coroiui- 
tion  Island,  but  no  soundings  are  given.  Coronation  Island  is  high,  eight  miles 
long  east-northeast  and  west-sontlnvest,  by  four  miles  wide,  and  tiie  western  p(»int 
is  laid  down  by  Tebenkoff,  in  latitude  .>5o  ':'*',  and  longitude  134'^  10'.  lietween 
the  northeast  j)art  of  the  island  and  the  nearest  island  an  anchorage  is  laid  down 
in  one  of  the  Kussian  charts,  but  no  depth  of  water  given.  Douglas  saw  tho 
island  at  a  distance  of  thirty-five  miles  from  the  southward;  he  name«l  the  west- 
ern point  Cape  Barnett,  ami  says  this  island  is  h)w  towards  the  si-a,  but  rises  grad- 
ually to  a  considerable  height.  His  latitude  is  erroneous,  having  estimated  his 
distance. 

Warren  Island  is  four  miles  east-southeast  and  west-northwest  bj-  two  miles 
in  width.  Between  it  and  Cape  Pole,  which  is  distant  two  miles  to  the  eastward, 
lie  several  lurking  rocks  and  islets.  One  and  a  half  mile  south  of  the  middle  of 
the  island  are  several  rocKS ;  five  miles  south  from  the  northwestern  point  of  tho 
island  several  rocks  arc  laid  down,  and  south  by  east  six  miles  from  the  northwest 
point  lies  .1  small  islet. 

The  entrance  to  Clarence  Sound,  between  Coronation  Island  on  the  west 
and  Warren  Island  on  tho  east,  is  about  six  miles  wide,  and  in  mid-channel  there 
is  no  bottom  with  one  hundred  and  twenty  fathoms  of  line. 

No  passage  is  laid  down  between  Cape  Pole  and  Warrtni  Island,  and  vessels 
from  Otter  Sound  and  the  north  part  of  Bucarelli  Sound  •.  ss  w(>st  of  the  islets  of 
Warren  Island,  and  enter  Clarence  Sound  between  \  arren  and  Coronation 
islands.  For  the  description  of  this  entrance  to  Port  Protection  see  remarks 
uuder  head  of  Port  Protection. 

PORT  BEAUC'LEIL.* 


On  the  western  side  of  the  northwest  entrance  to  Clarence  Strait,  about 
eighteen  miles  north-northeast  from  Point  Borlase,  the  northern  extremity  of  War- 
ren Island,  lies  a  small  island  off  the  entrance  to  tliis  port  which  is  open  to  the 
east.  In  coming  into  the  strait  from  the  westward,  round  Cape  Decision,  the  first 
point  passed  is  St.  Albans,  about  eight  miles  to  the  northeast  of  Decision;  it  is 
guarded  by  many  rocks  extending  a  mile  from  its  extremity ;  and  for  eight  miles 
northward  of  it  the  shore  is  bounded  by  islets  and  rocks  extending  two  mik's 
out  to  A  melius,*  which  lies  a  league  south  of  the  entrance  to  the  ]tort.    The  small 


13 


Namt'rt  by  Vaucouvcr,  1793. 


98 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


island  marking  tl;e  entrance  lies  directly  west  of  Mount  Caldcr,  and  eifjht  miles 
southwest  (niartor  west  fiom  Toint  Baker,  with  an  islet  northeast  of  Kaker  in 
ranye  with  the  point.  Tiie  island  in  the  entrance  has  some  rocks  aronnd  it,  but 
lies  over  a  mile  from  the  north  point  of  entrance,  and  a  mile  from  northeast  of 
the  south  jtoint.    This  islet  "admits  of  a  good  channel  on  either  side." 

The  outer  points  of  the  entrance  to  the  port  lie  about  north-northeast  and 
south  southwest,  two  miles  from  each  other;  thence  the  port  stretches  two  and  a 
half  miles  to  the  west-northwest,  to  the  east  side  of  a  "small  islaml  with  sundry 
rocky  islets  and  regular  soundings  from  thirteen  to  twenty  fathoms."  This  island 
is  in  the  middle  of  a  narrow  basin  six  miles  long  north  and  south,  and  from  one  to 
two  wide,  with  a  passage  a  mile  long  and  half  a  mile  wide  on  the  u(H'theast  side 
of  the  island ;  and  the  other  about  the  same  width  and  a  mile  and  a  half  long  to 
the  southwest. 

This  is  "an  extremely  good  harbor;  its  access  and  egress  are  free  from 
obstructions  except  such  us  ai'c  suthcicntly  evident  to  be  avoided."  "The  sur- 
rounding shores  are  in  general  moderately  elevated,  well  covered  with  wood; 
water  is  very  easily  procured,  as  tlu;  communication  with  the  shore  is  sutlicieutly 
commodious." 

Vancouver  places  the  northeast  point  in  latitude  .'ifio  17',  but  without  observa- 
tion. He  designated  the  northeast  point  as  that  which  lies  one  mile  inside  the 
outer  and  northeast  point  proper, 

rORT  PROXnCTION. 

From  Point  Borlase,  forming  the  northwest  point  of  Warren  Island,  to  the 
south  point  of  the  island  in  the  lutrthwest  bend  of  the  Clarence  Sound,  the  genertal 
direction  of  the  strait  is  north  by  east  half  east  for  twenty-flve  miles,  with  an  aver- 
age available  width  of  five  miles,  both  shores  bordered  by  numerous  islets  and 
rocks.  Theiu;e  the  strait  turns  east  round  the  northwest  point  of  Prince  of  Wales 
Islaiul,  and  riuis  twenty-live  miles  to  the  northeast  point  when  it  turns  to  the 
•southeast  by  south,  aud  at  its  northeast  part  receives  the  western  entrance  of  Sti- 
kine  Sound. 

Port  Protection  is  situated  on  the  nortlnvest  extremity  of  Prince  of  Wales 
Island,  where  the  Clarence  Sound  turns  from  its  north  ami  south  course  abruptly 
to  the  east.  It  opens  to  the  northwest,  and  its  southern  extremity  or  head  lies 
at  the  base  of  a  very  remarkable  barren,  peaked  mountain,  which  Vancouver 
named  Blount  Calder.  Tiiis  extinct  volcaiu)  is  conspi.nious  in  many  points  of  view, 
not  from  its  superu/r  elevation  when  compared  with  other  mountains  on  the  main, 
but  from  its  height  abov»<  the  rest  of  the  ccmntry  in  its  immediate  vicinity,  and 
IVoin  its  being  visible  in  various  directions  at  a  great  distance,  lie  observed 
upon  it  when  ftmr  or  live  leagues  west  of  Cape  Addington,  at  a  distance  of  over 
sixty  miles.  Point  Baker  is  on  an  islet  close  to  the  shore  at  the  northeast  point  of 
entrance,  from  whence  the  opposite  point  lies  south  27°  west,  at  a  <listance  of 
three-(puirters  of  a  mile.    The  chaiuiel  is  good  and  free  to  enter,  yet  there  is  one 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


99 


lurkiiiff  rock,  visiblo  only  at  low  tides,  lyins  south  1."?°  oast,  six  hniidrod  yards 
from  Point  Baker.  The  kelp  upon  it  will  {jive  warning  at  hif,'h  water,  and  <tu  all 
sides  there  is  u  depth  of  from  eijjlit  to  twelve  fathoms  close  to  it. 

This  harbor  has  a  general  direction  from  mid-entraneo  south  30°  east  for 
about  two  and  a  quarter  miles ;  its  width  from  one  thousand  to  six  hundred 
yards ;  and  the  upper  i)art  terminates  in  shallow  cov<'s  aiul  a  basin.  The  sound- 
ings are  irregular,  from  thirty  to  fifty  fathoms,  and  where  Vancouver  places  the 
anchorage  in  twenty-ono  fathoms,  the  rock  in  the  channel  bears  north  33°  west. 
Point  Baker  north  25°  west;  the  western  point  of  the  bay  north  82°  west,  aiul  a 
small  islet,  with  rocks  oft"  its  northwest  point,  lies  east  less  than  a  (piarter  of  a 
mile  distant.  On  the  east  and  southeast  of  this  islet  is  anchorage  in  twenty  to 
fourteen  fathoms,  but  with  contracted  space.  The  bottom  at  the  anchorage  of 
Vancouver  is  hard  and  rocky,  aiul  the  position  exposed  to  north  and  northwest 
winds,  but  well  protected  from  southeasters.  The  shores  are  in  most  places  steep, 
rocky,  and  covered  with  an  impenetrable  forest  of  spruce  and  other  trees.  Sev- 
eral streams  of  fresh  watc^r  arc  found,  and  halibut  were  caught  by  Vancouver. 

Vancouver  found  the  latitude  of  Point  Baker  50°  20'  30",  and  Tcbenkoft" 
gives  the  longitude  133°  32'. 

Vancouver  gives  a  i»laii  of  the  harbor  which  the  United  States  steamer  Ossi- 
pee  used  and  found  suflicient  for  all  general  purposes.  She  remained  here  during 
a  heavy  southeaster. 

About  a  mile  to  the  north  of  Point  Baker  is  situated  a  bank  on  which  sound- 
ings are  irregular  from  fifteen  to  thirty-two  fathoms,  and  at  the  meeting  of  the 
tidal  currents  causes  a  race  and  rip  that  appear  dangerous,  especially  at  the 
flood,  but  numerous  soundings  detected  no  less  than  lifteen  fathoms  upon  it,  and 
sixty  fathoms  between  it  and  the  shore. 

Tebenkoflt"  has  a  rock  near  mid-channel  of  the  sound,  lying  about  two  miles 
west  of  the  westernmost  point  of  Port  Protection,  and  another  three  or  four 
miles  southwest  of  the  same  point.  They  are  not  in  Vancouver,  but  are  on  the 
latest  liussiau  charts,  and  on  Admiralty  Chart  No.  2431. 

HAZY  ISLANDS. 


These  islets  lie  eight  miles  west  of  Coronation  Island,  and,  Vancouver  says, 
"form  a  group  of  small  rocky  isles  about  a  league  in  extent,  lying  south  7'^  east, 
at  a  distance  of  sixteen  leagues  from  Cape  Ommaney."  (Ill,  p.  2!).s.)  This  is 
evidently  an  error  of  the  text  of  Vancouver,  who  i  laces  them  lifteen  miles  south 
of  Ommaney  and  in  latitude  55°  54^',  and  south  of  the  entrance  to  Chatham 
Strait. 

Tcbenkoft'  places  them  sixteen  miles  sonth  of  Ommaney  and  in  latitude  55° 
55 J',  longitude  134°  25|'. 

In  1787  they  were  named  by  Dixon,  who  placed  them  in  latitude  55°  .W. 

On  the  lUissian  charts  they  are  known  as  the  Tu:uauuoi  (Misty)  Islands,    La 


100 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT, 


Pt'ronso  named  a  protij)  of  five,  inlets  La  CroytTo,  «lescribe<l  as  being  soparated 
I'loiii  the  continent  Ijy  a  eliaiinel  four  or  tive  leaRiies  wide,  lie  placed  them  in 
CjO  51',  about  eighteen  miles  scmth  of  Capo  Ommaney. 


CAPE   OinrANFA'. 


This  headland  lies  in  latitude  50"  10^',  Icmgitudo  134°  2SJ',  and  fonns  the 
western  point  of  the  entrance  to  Chatham  Strait.  The  eastern  point  of  entrance 
is  Cajjc  Harnett,  C(Monation  Island.  Abreast  of  Ommaney  the  strait  is  twelve 
miles  wide,  and  the  eastern  shore  renuirkably  broken  by  bays  and  guarded  by 
rock's. 

Tliis  cape  is  the  sontliern  extremity  of  Baranolf  Island,  upon  which  Sitka  is 
situated.  It  ''constitutes  a  very  remarkable  ])romontory,  that  terminates  in  a 
high,  blntf,  rocky  clitf,  with  a  round,  high,  rocky  islet  lying  close  to  it,  and  by  its 
shores  on  its  eastern  side  taking  a  sharp  northerly  direction  it  becomes  a  very 
narrow  point  of  land,  which,  having  been  seen  by  Captain  Colnett  in  his  mercan- 
tile expedition  to  this  coast,  was  by  him  named  Cape  Omnmney,  .;nd  the  opening 
between  it  and  Cape  Decision,  Christian  Sound,"  being  the  entraiu  e  to  Chatham 
Strait.  (Vancouver,  in,  pp. -'(>(>,  207.)  Thid  rocky  islet  "was  named  Woodeu's 
Hock  "    (Vancouver,  III,  p.  298.) 

The  land  to  the  northward  of  the  eai>e  was  observed  npon  by  Vancouver  at  a 
distance  of  fifty-seven  miles  when  off  Capes  Addington  and  Bartolomo. 

La  IVrouse  ]uuued  this  cape  Tschirikoii",  and  placed  it  in  latitude  50°  13A'. 

CHATHAM  STBAIT,  WITH  ITS  PORTS  AND  rNTEKSECTINa  STRAITS. 

This  magnificent  arm  of  the  sea  stretches  in  a  straight  lino  through  the 
in)rthwesteru  i)art  of  the  Alexander  Archipelago.  From  Cape  Ouunaney,  in 
latitude  50°  10',  where  it  is  twelve  miles  wide,  to  the  liead  of  the  eastern  arm,  iu 
59°  20',  it  maintains  a  nearly  uniform  width  of  seven  or  eight  miles,  with  no 
dangers  excei)t  close  along  the  shores.  The  dei)th  of  water  is  very  great,  and  no 
soundings  have  ever  been  laid  down  in  it.  In  latitude  58°  32'  we  found  no  bottom 
with  one  hundred  and  fifty  fathoms  of  line.  Its  general  direction  is  north  13° 
west  for  two  hundred  miles,  and  if  the  chart  of  Tebenkoft"  is  correct,  a  course 
drawn  throughout  its  length  would  not  touch  either  shore.  From  it  branch  the 
great  straits  eastward  and  westward,  leading  to  the  base  of  the  coast  range  of 
mountains  and  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Its  northern  termination  is  in  a  higher 
latitude  than  Mount  Fairweather,  while  the  peninsula  between  them,  terminating 
on  the  nortli  shores  of  Icy  Strait,  is  a  region  unexplored,  and  from  all  indica- 
tions the  home  of  the  glaciers.  The  entrance  to  this  strait  was  named  Christian 
Sound  by  Colnett  in  1788. 

La  Perouse,  in  honor  of  Behring's  commander,  who  landed  under  a  capo  in 
this  latitude,  and  had  two  boats'  crews  massacred  by  the  Indians,  named  the 
entrance  Tschiiikoft'  Bay,  as  to  him  it  bore  the  appearance  of  a  spacious  bay 


[ 


ALASKA  COAST  ril^OT. 


101 


beliiud  Cape  Tschirikoff.  Ton  miles  from  the  islaml.s  oft*  tlio  oiitranct'  ho  ox- 
perie'iiced  very  s^^rong  currents.  lie  gives  a  view  of  the  coast  Jieroaboiits,  taivon 
from  a  position  west  of  the  Hazy  Islands,  with  a  hijjfh  mountain  hoariuj;  north 
40°  east  on  the  east  side  of  Tschirikoff"  Bay. 

rOUT  CONCLUSION  AND  PORT  ABMSTUONO. 

Between  live  and  six  miles  northward  from  Cape  Onimaney,  on  the  western 
shore  of  Chatham  Strait,  lies  the  entrance  to  Port  Conclusion,  whoso  soutlioru 
point  is  formed  by  an  island  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long',  north  northwest, 
Avitli  deep  Avater  all  around  it,  except  toward  the  nmiii  point  southwest  of  jt ; 
between  these  lie  an  islet  and  sunken  rocks.  From  this  island  to  the  in)rth  point 
of  the  bay  the  direction  is  north,  and  the  distance  one  mile,  with  sevcnty-Hve 
fathoms  of  water  in  mid-entrance.  From  the  middle  of  the  entrance  the  bay  has 
a  direction  south  27°  west  for  two  and  three-quarters  miles,  contraetiiiK  for  the 
last  mile  to  a  little  over  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  width,  with  forty-four  fathoms  of 
water.  No  rocks  arc  known  to  exist  in  the  bay,  and  the  deei)est  water  in  the  bay 
is  eiyhty-seven  fathoms,  about  half  a  mile  west  by  north  Irom  the  south  point  of 
the  island.  Three-quarters  of  a  mile  inside  the  south  ])oint  there  is  a  small  cove, 
one-quarter  of  a  mile  in  extent,  facing  north,  with  anchorage  over  irregular 
bottom  in  from  Ave  to  fifteen  fathoms.  One  and  a  qmirter  mile  inside  the 
entrance  is  a  very  narrow  cove,  one-quarter  of  a  mile  long,  about  one-eighth  of  a 
mile  in  width,  with  four  fathoms  of  water,  and  opening  to  the  southwest  or  con- 
tracted head  of  the  bay.  In  this  cove  Vancouver  anchored.  The  head  of  this 
cove  is  separated  by  oidy  one-quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  head  of  another  bay 
southeast,  and  leading  from  the  strait.  It  is  one  mile  long,  "runs  nearly  north, 
and  has  a  very  narrow  entrance,  with  four  fathoms.  Inside  are  soundings  in 
seven  or  eight  fathoms.    The  Russian  chart  designates  this  as  Alexander  May, 

The  latitude  of  the  north  point  of  the  island  forming  the  south  point  of  Port 
Conclusion  is  50°  IC,  and  longitude  134°  27'. 

The  north  point  of  Port  Conclusion,  called  Point  Eliza,  also  forms  the  south 
point  of  Port  Ai-mstrong,  which  has  an  opening  to  the  cast  from  the  strait  of  less 
than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  width  for  half  a  mile  in  length,  with  soundings  from 
ten  to  seven  fathoms.  Inside  this  narrow  channel  the  bay  expands  to  a  basin  one 
mile  long  by  half  a  mile  wide,  with  thirty-four  fathoms  of  water,  decreasing  to 
twelve  and  eight  close  to  the  shores.  The  general  direction  of  this  port  and  its 
entrance  is  south  70°  west,  and  extends  one  mile  and  a  quarter. 

Vancouver  gives  a  plan  of  it  and  describes  it  in  volume  II,  pp.  208,  2G9. 

The  head  of  Port  Armstrong  is  only  one  mile  east  of  the  head  of  Lis- 
vinitchny  Bay,  making  in  from  the  Avest  side  of  the  peninsula, 

POUT    MALMESBURY. 

This  bay  lies  directly  east  of  Port  Coticlusion,  on  the  eastern  shore  of  ( •hat- 
ham  Strait,  sixteen  miles  north  00°  east  from  Cape  Ommaney,  ami  twentythreo 


102 


ALASlvii  COAST  l»lLOT. 


lit 


\i 


mill's  iiortli  of  tlio  west  i)oiiit  of  Coroimtioii  Isliiiul.  ^IctwcPii  Cape  llpcision  and 
till'  liarlior  the  iiitcriiiciliatc  shore  is  deeply  indeiiteu  by  many  small  open  bays 
and  fiiiavded  by  niimerons  rocks.  Tlio.  harbor  is  easy  of  access  by  keepiii};  near 
Ihe  southern  shore,  and  attbrds  very  excellent  shelter,  with  soniidings  from  seven- 
teen to  thirtyfonr  and  t\v«'Ive  fathoms  of  water.  From  the  entrance  its  direction 
is  northeast  for  three  miles,  then  south-sontheast  for  three  miles,  with  some  rocks 
and  islets  in  it.  It  is  conveniently  situated  to  the  ocean,  and  has  its  north  point 
in  latitude  .ICP  17^'  and  longitude  134°  07'.  Its  north  point  is  called  Point  Harris, 
and  rendered  very  remarkable  by  being  a  projecting  point  on  which  is  a  single 
hill,  apiiearing  from  many  points  of  view  like  an  island,  with  an  islet  and  some 
rocks  extending  nearly  to  the  southwest  of  it.  (Vancouver,  HI,  j).  280.)  Ho 
gives  no  plan  of  it,  but  its  entrance  and  general  features  are  exhibited  on  Tebeu- 
koft"  and  other  Ilussian  cliarts,  and  on  Admiralty  Chart  No.  2431. 

Four  or  five  miles  northward  ot  Port  Conclusion  is  a  wide  bay  leading 
three  or  four  miles  westward,  with  two  arms,  one  to  the  north  and  the  other  to 
the  south.  The  head  of  this  bay,  not  named,  is  within  two  miles  of  the  liead  of 
Toporkoff  (i.  c,  Piijjin)  Day,  leading  eastward  from  the  west  side  of  the  peninsula. 
Thence  northward  the  western  shore  is  broken  by  numerous  bays  to  southeast 
point  of  Peril  Strait  in  T)'"  22'. 

The  eastcnu  shore,  being  the  west  side  of  Brooof  or  Keriou  Island,  is  very 
nuich  broken  by  nuiiu'rons  bays,  islets,  ami  rocks. 

Point'  Ellis  is  the  first  prominent  point  on  the  eastern  shore,  north  of  Port 
Malmesbury.  Vancouver  placed  it  in  latitude  50°  31',  and  the  latest  charts  give 
the  longitude  131°  17'.  Along  the  northeast  shore  of  Point  Ellis  a  bay  ten  miles 
long  stretches  to  the  northeast.  From  its  head  to  the  head  of  Port  Camden,  lead- 
ing northward  from  Frederic  Strait,  a  iiortage  is  used  by  the  Indians,  who  carry 
their  cauoes  across  it. 

Point  Sullivan*  is  in  latitude  50°  38',  and  longitude  134°  1G'.5.  From  it 
the  shore  is  less  rocky  and  more  compact  for  thirteen  miles  north  9°  west  to 
Point  Kingsmill.t  At  this  point  Chatham  Strait  is  seven  miles  wide,  with  the 
opening  of  a  small  bay  on  the  western  shore,  laid  down  on  Tebenkoff  about  west 
by  south  from  Point  Kingsmill. 

Point  Kingsmill,  about  forty-two  miles  northward  of  Cape  Ommaiiey,  is  the 
southwest  point  of  the  entrance  of  Frederic  Strait  into  Chatham  Strait.  Tlie 
northwest  i)oint  of  entrance  is  Point  Gardner,  lying  ten  or  eleven  miles  northwest 
by  north  half  north  from  the  former,  with  a  small  low-wooded  islet,  named  Yasha 
Island,  on  the  same  course,  about  three  miles  ofl'  Point  Gardner. 

POINT  GARDNER.t 


This  point  is  the  southwestern  extremity  of  Admiralty  Island,  is  about  two 
mihis  long  by  threecpiarters  wide,  and  stretching  south-sourliwest  into  Chatham 
Strait,  reducing  its  Avidth  to  leas  than  Ave  miles. 


*  Niiiiiod  I>Y  Viini'oiivor. 


tNiHucrt  by  Vimcouver,  1794. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


103 


Prom  this  point  some  rocks  lie  tlirt'o-(|uaitors  of  a  iniU'  south  -'.'P  oust,  and  oil 
tlio  same  beariufj  Yasha  Ishiiiil,  small,  low,  and  woimUmI,  lies  about  tlinw  mlloa 
distant.  By  observation  Vancouver  placed  the  i)oint  in  latitiulu  57°  01',  and 
Tebenkotf  {fives  its  lonj^itude  l'.U°  2(5'.r»  south.  About  two  miles  cast  of  tho  point 
lie  two  isl(!ts,  and  between  them  and  th«^  point  is  laid  down  an  anchorajte  for  the 
tradin{;r  vessels,  but  no  souiulinj«s  are  noted.  This  aiu-horajje  is  open  to  the  south, 
and  the  ocean  swell  from  the  southward  is  said  to  bo  felt  here.  At  or  uear  this 
point  the  Indians  report  coal. 

The  eastern  shore  of  the  strait,  northward  of  Point  Gardner,  is  uuiformlj' 
bold,  indented  by  bays  and  free  from  shoals.  The  main  island  is  comparatively 
high  and  wooded. 

The  first  anchorage  is  at  the  bay  called  the  Lower  Koutsnow,  ehivcn  miles 
northward  of  Point  Crardner,  and  is  reported  good  by  the  Saginaw.  Oiu)  mile 
bi'oad  oft'  the  middle  of  this  bay  lie  some  rocks ;  the  track  of  tlic  trading  ves- 
sels is  laid  down  east  of  them.    The  latitude  is  07°  ll'..">  and  longitude  i;JP  .'50'. 

Twenty-three  miles  north  of  Point  Gardner  is  the  broad  open  bay,  named 
HooiTs  Bay  by  Vancouver,  with  a  large  island  under  its  northern  shore.  On  the 
n(n-tli  side  of  this  island,  about  three  miles  eastward  of  its  western  point,  is  laid 
down  the  anchorage  of  the  trading  steamers,  abreast  the  large  settlenumt  called 
Koutsnow.  Tlie  Saginaw  reports  "several  anchorages  in  and  around  Koutsnow," 
one  abreast  the  Indian  settlement,  one  to  the  right,  and  one  in  tlie  channel-way 
below  the  rapids,  one  to  the  northward  and  westward  of  the  island,  forming  the 
northwestern  boundary  of  Hood's  Bay,  in  latitude  57°  28'.5,  longitude  134°  ;{ t'. 
No  soundings  are  given. 

The  northwestern  point  of  llood's  Bay  is  formed  by  Point  Samuel,  aiul 
between  this  point  and  the  large  island  southeast  of  it  is  the  entrance  to  Mud 
Bay,  an  unexplored  water,  nearly  dividing  Admiralty  Island,  and  rei»orted  to 
have  a  violent  race  at  its  entrance  at  certain  states  of  the  tide.  This  grcsat  extent 
of  water  forms  really  an  "inland  archipelago,"  being  filled  with  numerous  islands. 
Bapids  are  encountered  inside;  abundance  of  all  kinds  of  fish. 

In  1808  there  was  opened  in  this  bay  "a  mine  of  the  best  bituminous  coal  yet 
found  upon  our  Pacific  coast,"  by  the  United  States  steamer  Saginaw. 

In  coming  eastward  through  Peril  Strait,  Admiralty  Island,  to  the  eastward, 
looks  like  a  great  wooded,  low  plain,  being  the  space  occupied  by  this  great  bay 
ami  adjacent  low  shores. 

Directly  west  of  Hood's  Bay,  Peril  Strait  enters  the  west  side  of  Chatham 
from  the  ocean  through  Salisbury  or  Klokatchef  Sound,  and  by  Sitka  Sound. 
The  two  points  are  Schkaliakh  Point  at  the  south,  in  latitude  '>1°  24',  and  Point 
Tlakinikut  at  the  north,  in  latitude  "i°  li!)',  and  lying  nearly  north  and  scuith  of 
each  other.  The  western  part  of  this  strait  lies  nearly  west-northwest  and  east- 
southeast  for  twenty  miles. 

In  the  strait  off  Point  Schkaliakh  lie  immerous  rocks  and  islets,  with  one  or 
two  available  anchorages.    We  anchored  in  sixteen  fathoms,  soft  bottom,  between 


104 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


tlio  iwlcts  iind  tlip  iiiiiiiilaiid  soiitliwanl.  But  it  is  not  advisablo  to  pass  ninoiif; 
tliciii  witljoiit  a  pilot.     (Sec  iciiiaik.s  upon  Peril  Strait.) 

Close  iiiider  I  In;  western  shore  of  (!liatliaiu  Strait,  alxnit  seven  miles  iioitli- 
ward  of  I'eril  Strait,  Tebeidiotl"  notes  a  white  roek,  not  laid  down  on  other  ehart». 
Nearly  east  of  it,  on  the  eastern  slioro,  is  tho  Point  Pitrlcrr  of  Vauconver,  in  lati- 
tude r)7°  .'57',  while  a  lea>,nie  to  the  southeastward  of  it,  in  a  small  cove,  is  an  ojien- 
in;;  about  the  eighth  of  a  nillt^  wide.  In  the  entranee  Whidhy  found  fiv«'  fathoms 
of  water,  lint  after  advancin<;  half  a  mile  in  he  found  it  full  of  shallows.  Tho 
a«\iacont  land  to  the  south  and  east  is  low  and  wooded.  At  this  entranee  he 
obtained  herrin;,'  from  the  Indians,  July  1704. 

J'itrl<i(}'  llitrlinr*  lies  on  thi^  western  shore,  twenty-one  miles  north  of  Teril 
Strait,  and  llfteeu  south  of  ley  Strait.  Two  openiiifjs  are  found  here,  eaeh  about 
a  mile  wide,  with  an  interveninjx  jKiint  of  low,  wooded  land.  The  southern  open- 
injf  leads  west  ami  then  north-northwest  by  an  unexplored  channel  thirty-llvo 
miles  louf;-  to  ley  Strait.  The  UfUthern  openiu;,'  is  that  of  I'avlolf  Harbor,  about  a 
mile  wide,  with  the  points bearinj;'  about  northeast  and  southwest  from  ea('h  other. 
Tlu!  general  direction  of  the  l»ay  is  n(n-tliwest  for  eifflit  miles,  but  Tebenkoff  lays 
down  the  anchorage  in  a  cove  on  the  south  shore  about  two  miles  inside  the  south 
l)oint,  but  gives  no  soundings.  The  admiralty  chart  notes  a  cascade  three  miles 
inside  the  entrance. 

The  north  point  of  the  entrance  is  in  latitude  r»7°  'A',  longitude  l.'Jlo  57', 
according  to  Uussian  authorities. 

The  eastern  shores  of  the  strait,  both  north  and  .south  of  Pavloft"  Harbor,  are 
comparatively  low,  but  densely  wooded,  the  ininu'diatc  shore  line  being  "alternate 
steep  rocky  cl Ill's  and  small  sandy  bays,  with  a  few  detached  ro(.'ks  and  islets  lying 
close  under  it." 

Icy  Strait  or  Crnns  (SoiokZ  t  connects  Chatham  Strait  with  the  ocean,  and  uudces 
in  from  tho  westward  between  Points  Augnstat  and  Couverdent,  the  latter  lying 
nine  miles  north  1.")°  west  from  the  former.  Whidbey  placed  Point  Augusta  in 
latitiule  58°  o;?^'. 

It  is  high,  covered  with  timber,  and  has  some  rocks  close  under  it.  Two  and 
a  half  miles  north-northeast  of  the  i)oint  Tebenkoff  lays  down  some  rocks  in  mid- 
chamu'l,  but  the  other  llussian  and  admiralty  charts  place  them  close  to  Point 
Mnrsden  on  the  eastern  .shore.  Tebenkoff  designates  the  trading  tracks  close 
along  Augusta  Point,  and  west  of  the  rocks.  Five  miles  east-uortheast  from  it  is 
the  contracted  anclunage  of  Spaskia  Bay. 

Under  the  southwest  shore  of  Point  Couverden,  "at  a  distance  of  two  miles 
to  the  northwest  of  the  point,  there  is  a  small  cove  opening  to  the  south,  with  an 
island  lying  before  it,  and  a  mile  south  of  the  point  lies  a  high,  barren,  rocky 
islet."    This  latter  is  laid  down  on  the  llussian  charts,  '.ait  not  on  Admiralty  Chart 


•Ti'lx'iikort's  (•hart.     Admiralty  Chart  No.  2431  culls  it  New  Harboi'.    By  tho  Saginaw  it  has 
lieoii  I'allod  Kreshwatcr  Hay. 
t  Named  by  Vancouvor. 


_ 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


lO.") 


No.  24.'U.  "About  two  milos  iiortliwiinl  of  tlit^  i»i>int  art'  oiio  small  island  and 
tlirt'c  rocky  isletM,"  one  of  which  lies  nearly  in  niidchanin-i,  Tiicnco  northward 
the  shorp  is  fontuMl  by  a  narrow  border  of  low  lands,  well  W(M)d»'d  witli  larfj*'  treoH 
and  backed  by  hif,'h  mountains  covered  with  snow.  It  is  lu'arly  strai^-ht,  and  its 
p'ueral  direction  is  nortli  by  west  half  west  for  sixty  miles  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Cliilkaht. 

Abreast  of  Point  Aufjusta  the  strait  is  much  contracted  by  J'oint  Mamdeii,* 
lyiuf,'  less  than  four  miles  northwest  from  the  f«»rmer,  in  latitutle  ijso  (Mi'. 

Northward  of  Point  ("(uiverden  the  strait  has  a  width  of  four  or  five  miles  for 
eleven  miles  to  Pohit  lietreat,*  on  the  eastevn  slum*,  and  forminf>'  the  northennnost 
l>oint  of  Admiralty  Island,  and  placed  by  Vancouver  in  latitude  58°  1'4',  and  by 
Tebenkott"  in  longitude  134o  59/. 

For  six  or  eij^ht  miles  of  this  island  south  of  Point  Retreat  the  land  is  low, 
level,  and  heavily  wooded,  and  fi  .1  its  formation  would  well  sufjfjest  the  nauu>  of 
Terrace  Point.  When  rmnuling  the  iiorth  end  of  the  point  we  had  a  short  view 
of  a  great  glacier  bearing  north  15°  east  by  compass,  but  with  the  thick,  squally 
weather  it  was  dilHcidt  to  estinmte  its  distance.  It  doubtless  comes  from  the 
southwest  flank  of  the  high  mountain  named  the  Lion's  Head  by  the  United  States 
Coast  Survey,  situated  about  (Ifteen  miles  east  of  Berner's  Bay,  and  froiu  which  a 
stream  empties  into  the  strait  about  ten  miles  north-northeast  of  Point  lletreut. 
This  stream  has  a  very  extensive  shoal  otf  its  mouth. 

Barlow  Cove*  lies  on  the  east  side  of  Point  Uctreat,  and  stretches  five  miles 
to  the  southward,  with  a  width  decreasing  from  two  miles  to  one  at  the  head,  near 
which  we  anchored  in  sixteen  fathoms  muddy  bottom.  The  extent  of  the  bay  and 
its  safety  is  increased  by  a  long  island  stretching  nearly  across  its  entrance  on  the 
northeast,  but  allowing  good  passages  to  the  westward  of  it,  both  northwest  and 
southeast.  The  shores  of  the  bay  are  well  wooded,  low,  and  composed  of  regulai-ly 
stratified,  finegrained  mica  schists,  lying  northwest  and  southeast  magnutie,  and 
containing  large  quartz  veins,  in  which  wo  found  nothing  but  iron  pyrites.  The  dip 
of  the  stratification  is  vertical. 

Point  Retreat  is  the  northwest  point  of  the  north  entrance  to  Stephen's 
Passage,  leading  ninety  miles  eastward  and  southward  to  Frederick  Soiuid. 

In  the  middle  of  Chatham  Strait,  three  miles  north  of  Point  Retreat,  is  a  larg.i 
comparatively  low  island,  whose  northwest  extremity  stretches  six  miles  northwest 
to  with)  I  three  miles  of  the  west  shore  of  the  strait. 

Teb  kofi"  gives  the  trading  tracks  on  either  side  of  this  island,  but  other 
charts  .ace  the  track  only  to  the  west,  and  fill  all  the  space  between  the  east- 
ern side  of  the  island  and  the  main  with  islet^•,  and  the  great  bank  ofi'  the  river 
mouth.  Vancouver  says  Whidbey  found  this  channel  difficult  to  navigati',  even 
with  boats;  numberless  rocks  lay  between  the  group  of  islets  and  the  continent, 
from  the  shores  of  which  a  shallow  bank  extends  nearly  half  a  league.    Two  miles 


14 


•  Named  by  Vancouver  in  1794. 


100 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


northwest  of  the  northwestern  point  of  this  island  no  bottom  is  found  with  one 
hnndred  and  fifty  fatlutms  of  line. 

M'liidhey  Point  is  the  name  ai)plied  by  the  Coast  Siu-vey  (1807)  to  tlie  wooded 
projeeting  point  on  the  w-^st  shore  of  the  strait,  about  twenty-three  miles  north 
l(»o  west  from  Point  Couverden.  A  small  islet  lies  close  to  its  southeast  point, 
where  Wliidbey  observed  the  latitude  oSo  ;{5'.  This  point  "forms  a  projecting 
jtromontory  about  a  league  long  in  a  northerly  direction.'' 

7>VrHfv'.s'  Bay.* — Five  or  six  miles  northeast  by  east  from  Point  Whidbey  lies 
Point  Bridget,  the  southwest  point  of  IJemer's  Bay.  The  northwest  point  of  the 
bay  is  I'oiiit  St.  Mary,*  and  lies  north  -Oo  Avest,  about  four  mileu  from  Bridget, 
while  the  bay  is  five  miles  deep  in  a  noi ill  n^.theast  direction.  No  soundings  are 
given  in  this  bay.  Both  points  are  low,  and  heavily  wooded,  Vancouver  places 
Point  St.  ?,rary  in  latitude  53o  4;3i',  and  Tebenkoff  in  longitude  135o  02'. 

>«orthward  of  this  the  shores  of  the  strait  are  compact  and  .straight,  but  the 
width  (Ucrei  ses  very  gradiuiily  to  six  or  seven  miles  in  latitude  58°  54',  Avhere  a 
long  island  on  the  western  side  contracts  it  to  four  or  five  miles. 

(>tf  the  .southern  point  of  the  larger  island  is  an  islet  about  two  miles  from  the 
western  shore,  and  this  was  "NVhidoey's  place  of  observation. 

From  this  islet  the  larger  island,  which  is  one  mile  broad,  stretches  north-north- 
west  about  live  miles  parallel  with  the  western  .shore,  and  leaving  a  channel  about 
a  mile  wide,  but  having  at  its  southern  entrance  shoals  that  extend  nearly  across  it. 

Point  Seduction.* — In  latitude  51P  Oli',  according  to  Vancouver,  lies  the  south 
l)oint  of  a  tongue  of  comparatively  low  land,  one  ^)v  two  miles  broad,  stretching 
twelve  or  fifteen  miles  south-southeast,  directly  into  the  middle  of  the  strait.  From 
this  point  stretches  "a  range  of  small  islands  about  four  miles  in  a  southerly  direc- 
tion; all  have  trees  upon  theiii  excei)t  the  southernmost,  which  is  a  fiat,  bax-reu 
rock." 

The  western  arm,  about  two  miles  wide,  I'cceives  the  river  Chilkaht;  and  tlie 
eastern  arm,  about  three  miles  wide,  has  low  land  at  the  head,  but  is  not  known  to 
receive  a  stream  of  any  .size. 

DAVIDSON  GLACIER. 


In  latitude  59°  07',  abreast  of  Seduction  Tcnigue,  a  magnificent  glacier  issues 
from  a  narrow  gorge  betvt'eeu  high,  bold,  snow-covered  mountains  on  th-  ^vestern 
shore,  and  hr.s  forced  out  a  low  point,  now  covered  with  spruce  trees,  into  the 
strait.  AVhen  we  passed  it,  going  northward,  the  fog  hung  over  it  so  closely  that 
wi'  could  .see,  over  the  timber,  only  a  part  of  its  deep  .scarred  front.  Southward 
of  tnc  main  glacier  a  small  branch  couu\s  through  ii  crooked  ravine  to  the  water's 
edge.  From  our  anchorage,  abreast  of  Observatory  Lsland,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Chilkaht,  we  obtaiiu'd  measurenu'nts  of  the  part  of  the  maui  glacier  visible  east  of 
the  mountain's  flanks,     \ssuming  the  distance  at  six  .statute  miles,  the  part  exj)o.sed 

*  Nampd  by  Vancouver,  1794. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


107 


was  fifty-sovon  Imiidred  feet  long;  of  this,  forty-two  liuiulrod  and  sixty-fivo  feet 
Lad  a  very  uniform  and  regular  inclination  of  4°  4.'5'  21",  and  the  height  of  the  i)art 
cut  by  the  mountain-side,  or  fifty -seven  hundred  feet  from  its  front,  Avas  six  V'.ni- 
dred  and  forty-flve  feet  above  the  Avater.  After  leaving  the  gorge  it  spreads  itself 
into  a  vast  fan-shaped  mass  fr^m  two  to  three  miles  broad.  The  moraine  in  front 
is  a  low  flat  about  ,i  quarter  of  a  mile  in  width,  and  com])osed  of  fragments,  some- 
times of  great  size,  of  slate,  sienitic  granite,  and  a  flue  ehrystalline,  beautiful, 
white  marble.    Two  moraines  are  found  on  its  northern  slope. 

CniLIC^HT  RIVER. 

This  moderately  large  stream  enters  the  north  westernmost  branch  of  Chathaiu 
Strait  iu  latitude  59°  13',  by  the  determinations  of  the  United  States  Coast  Survey, 
and  lies  about  eight  miles  further  north  than  Point  Sedu(;tion.  Abreast  of  Glacier 
Point  the  branch  is  only  one  mile  in  width,  with  the  deeper  water  near  the  east- 
ern shore.  Two  or  three  miles  north  of  the  glacier  the  Avidth  is  lu'arly  three  miles, 
Avith  a  moderately  large  v  ooded  island  close  to  the  eastern  shore,  a\  hich  is  iudented 
by  scA'eral  snuill  bays,  but  Avhen'  no  soundings  are  laid  down.  FiAe  or  six  miles 
north-nortliAvest  of  Clacier  I'oint  is  a  low,  burnt-oft"  point,  with  fifteen  to  tAventy 
fathoms  half  a  mile  east  of  it,  and  a  small  coac  on  the  northwest  side  of  it,  open 
to  the  northeast.  Anchorage  is  laid  down  here  in  eighteen  fathouis  by  Lindenberg, 
and  it  Avould  appear  a  better  anchorage  than  iu  the  open  branch,  Avhere  the  strong 
ebb  currents  of  fhe  rlA'er,  running  against  a  strong  southerly  AA'ind,  niaice  a  very 
disagreeable  bertli.  At  this  anchorage  Pcsichnni  (Farewell J  Island,  a  small,  pyra- 
ntidal,  treeless  islet,  occui)icd  by  the  Coast  Survey  as  an  astrononiical  station,  will 
bear  northeast  by  north  one  and  a  half  mile.  lietween  this  bay  and  the  island 
soundings  are  given  from  twelve  to  tvvnty-seven  fathoms.  Shoal  ground  sur 
rounds  the  island  for  a  couple  of  hundred  yards,  and  stretches  northeast  toAvards 
the  main,  leaving  a  narrow  channel  of  only  four  fathoms  on  iis  east  side.  The 
bench  of  the  island  is  strewn  \Tith  large,  erratic  boulders.  "We  anchored  abont  one 
mile  northwest  by  Avest  from  the  island  in  fifteen  fathoms,  Avith  u  Aery  tenacious 
blue  muddy  bottom,  afTtbrding  capital  holding  ground,  but  Avith  southerly  scjualla 
tailed  into  three  fathoms.  The  river  is  a  mile  and  a  half  wide  at  its  mouth,  and 
runs  ten  miles  nortliAvest,  to  Avhich  distance  thiee  feet  can  be  carried  at  half  tide. 
At  low  water  tiie  bar  ajipcared  to  be  dry  all  the  way  across.  The  intlueiice  of  the 
tide  is  felt  but  a  short  distance.  At  Cascade  Point,  on  the  Avest  side  of  the  bar, 
the  rise  of  the  tide  is  only  eight  feer,  and  at  P(>int  JUa,  about  five  miles  inside  tho 
bar  the  rise  is  only  one  foot. 

The  general  direction  of  this  river  is  to  the  northward  between  high  ]>recipi- 
tons  mountains,  whose  sides  are  in  great  part  destitute  of  timber,  ami  exhil>it  con- 
stant disintegrati(ni  by  the  action  of  the  frosts.  Sir  Cieorge  Siin]ison  says  the 
Indians  ascend  it  about  fifty  miles  to  a  Aalley  running  toAvards  Mount  Fairweather, 
and  (iontaining  a  large  lake,  which  pours  its  Avaters  into  the  open  ocean  at  Admi- 
ralty (Ik'hnng)  Bay.    This  can  hardly  be  the   geographical  fact.     The   Indians 


108 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


reported  to  us  tliey  ascended  the  river  for  twenty  days  to  a  preat  lake,  (wheneo 
tlicy  make  a  portage  to  the  Lewis  River,)  and  conhl  descend  the  same  distance  in 
two  days. 

The  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  was  on  the  sniidl  treeless  islet 
named  PeKtchani  CFarcwellJ  or  Sandy,  off  the  motitlt  of  the  Cliilkalit,  and  the  deter- 
mination of  the  ji;*'<'R'i'pl''<"'l  position  diflers  from  the  survey  of  Lindenberp:  for 
the  Hussian-Americau  Company.  The  latitude  is  .59°  11'  4.'!"  north,  the  lon<>ituile 
i:\'P  L'.V  01"  west,  or  in  time,  'Mi.  01»».  40.3s.  Lindenberf;;  placed  it,  by  his  survey, 
in  latitude  59°  OG'.l,  and  longitu'^e  13.>o  ;{(>'.7,  while  AVhidbey  i)laced  the  bar  of 
the  river  in  59°  12'.  A  sketch  of  Cliilkalit  River  and  ai>proaclics,  showing  anchor- 
ages, &c.,  is  given  on  the  Russian  map  Xo.  10,  of  the  Pacific  series. 

]<'roin  our  aii<!horage  olf  tlie  bar  of  the  river  a  remarkable  snow-clad  peak  across 
the  strait  bore  south  4(5°  east,  true,  rearing  its  head  far  above  its  feUows  in  the 
range,  and  attaining  an  elevation  of  six  thousand  feet  by  estimation.  From  the 
striking  resemblance  which  the  upper  northern  profile  presented,  it  was  very  appro- 
priately named  the  Lion's  Head. 

For  thirty  or  forty  miles  along  the  eastern  shore  of  the  strait  there  is  a  lofty 
range  of  snow-covered  and  sliar])-pointc  mountains,  hi  which  every  marked 
depression  has  its  glacier  of  greater  or  less  extent. 

The  northern  part  of  Chatham  Strait,  ucu'thward  of  Point  Retreat,  was  named 
Lynn  ('anal;  but  there  seems  to  be  no  reason  for  applying  three  distinct  names  to 
one  great  strait,  so  uniform  in  Avidth  and  directicui,  and  so  free  of  islands. 

In  the  northern  part  of  Chatham  Strait  we  noticc^d  that  many  of  the  topmost 
bnanches  of  the  trees  were  trending  to  the  northward,  indicating  that  the  prevail- 
ing winds  are  from  the  southward.  On  many  i)arts  of  the  adjacent  shores,  and 
esjH'cially  of  Seduction  Tongue,  near  the  I't'stclianl  f  Farewell  J  Islaiul,  the  timber 
had  been  destroyed  by  lire;  indicating  less  annual  rain  than  at  Sitka. 


STRAITS  INTERSECTING  CHATHAM  STRAIT. 

♦fuedkrick  strait,  its  bays,  harbors,  and  intersecting  passaoes. 


This  strait  runs  twenty-four  miles  northeast  by  east,  to  two  miles  north  of  Povo- 
rotny  (Turnabout)  Island,  with  an  average  width  of  ten  miles,  when  it  turus  east  by 
south  for  thirty-two  miles  to  where  the  Souchoi  (Dry)  Channel  leads  to  the  Stikino 
river  and  the  Wrangell  channel  to  the  Stikiiie  Sound  and  Clarence  Strait.  North- 
east of  I'ovorotny  (Turnabout)  Island  lies  the  !<outh  entrance  of  Stephens f  Passage 
with  a  width  of  eighteen  miles,  east  and  west,  between  Nei)eau  Point  and  Cape 
Fanshaw.t     Povorotny  (Turnabout)  Island  is  usually  jtassed  to  the  nortliward,  as 

*Niiiium1  Friiicc  Fivdcrick  Soiiiul  l>y  Vuncimvcr  in  1794. 
tNiu>M>«l  by  Viiucouver  ill  17114. 


ALASIvA  COAST  PILOT. 


100 


rocks  arc  laid  down  between  It  and  the  soutlieni  shore,  but  the  eominaiuhn'  of  the 
Sayiiiiiw  reports  that  it  may  be  passed  to  the  southward,  in  which  case  keep 
"ch)se  aboard  aiound  the  northwest  point  of  Knprianoft"  Island." 

From  Toiut  Kingsmill  to  Point  Cornwallis*  the  south  shore  trends  north  47° 
east  for  seven  miles.  The  spaci>  between  these  two  points  is  occupied  by  two  bays, 
each  takinj?  a  general  southeast  direction ;  one  to  one  and  a  half  mile  in  widiii, 
with  a  length  of  four  or  live  miles,  and  tilled  with  many  islets  and  dangerous  rocks. 
In  the  first  bay  nnder  the  western  point  wus  the  Kakc  village  in  1.S07. 

The  second  bay  has  been  (1808)  named  Saginaw  Bay;t  the  ai.chorage  is  about 
a  mile  and  a  half  inside  Point  Cornwallis,  on  the  po.t  hand  going  in,  and  nearly 
abreast  of  the  Indian  village,  both  east  and  west,  in  J'rom  seven  to  eleven  fathoms 
over  muddy  bottojn.  Although  open  to  the  northwest  the  anchorage  is  completely 
sheltered,  but  is  of  limited  extent,  there  being  ground  «  nough  for  about  a  dozen 
large  vessels.  It  is  very  easy  to  lind  llu'  anchorage,  which  can  be  entered  either 
by  sailing  vessels  or  steamers  with  fair  or  head  winds. 

It  is  contemplated  to  establish  a  United  States  military  post  at  this  place; 
and  it  may  become  important  for  cod  lishiug,  as  the  fish  are  reported  to  run  in 
gi'eat  numbers,  in  the  sunnner,  around  and  near  its  entram;e. 

The  geographical  position  of  tlu!  Indian  settlement  is  in  latitude  r>VP  'M',  lon- 
gitude li54o  10',  according  to  Ttbenkoff  and  Admiralty  Chart  Is'o.  2431,  but  the 
Saginaw  places  it  in  latitude  .'jGo  'm'.'),  longitude  l'M°  OO'.o. 

Eastward  of  the  long,  low,  narrow,  wooded  point  Cornwallis,  lies  the  Kako 
Strait,t  from  four  to  five  miles  wide,  leading  southeast  aiul  south  nearly  forty 
miles  to  the  northwest  bend  of  Chirencje  Strait,  directly  oi)i)osit(i  Port  Protection. 
It  is  filled  witli  an  intricacy  of  rocks  and  islets,  yet  through  which  one  of  the  small 
trading  schooners  beat  to  the  northward  in  1807.  The  northeast  point  of  entrance 
to  theKake  Strait  is  Point  Macartney,^  in  latitude  57°  01^'  and  longitude  13)'^  50', 
and  eleven  miles  northeast  by  east  quarter  east  frf>m  Point  Cornwallis.  Vancouver 
describes  this  as  a  large,  rounding,  but  not  lofty  pronnmtory,  in  which  are  several 
small  open  coves,  and  near  it  several  detached  rocks. 

Hamilton  Unrhor. — On  the  east  shore  of  Kake  Strait  and  about  eight  miles 
south-southeast  of  Point  Macartney  lies  the  entrance  to  Hamilton  Ilaibor,  about 
a  mile  wide  and  stretching  five  miles  in  an  easterly  diicctiou.  Two  islets  lie  west- 
ward of  the  southwest  poiu*^^  of  entrance.  An  arm  oi  tJiis  harlHU'  runs  two  miles 
north-northwest  just  inside  the  north  point.  In  this  harbor  Vancouver  found 
the  sites  of  no  less  than  eight  old  Indian  villages;  but  it  is  now  of  importance  as 
being  the  locality  where  "a  mine  of  good  bituminous  coal  has  been  partially 
opened,"  (-Iidy  31,  18(»S.)  The  location  of  this  mine  is  on  the  south  side  of  the 
luirbor,  three  miles  from  the  south  point.  "The  chart  exiiibits  the  ai)proaches  us 
being  difficult  navigation,  on  account  of  islets  and  rottks  ;  Init  it  is  not  so,  at  any 
rate  for  steamers."    Tlie  Saginaw  gives  its  latitude  5(»o  'i'l'.A  and  1°  4;j'..'»  east  of 


"Niiiiicil  liy  N'lMii'ouvcr  in  l7iM. 
tNimu'il  liy  tln'  I'ii'(f(\  SliitcM  navy. 
\  Ki'ku  Strait  on  all  ItuKNiiiu  clinrtH. 


110 


ALASIGV  COAST  PILOT. 


Sitki).  or  1'?'?°  .'?l'.2  west,    Tebeiikoff  and  other  Russian  maps  place  it  in  JjGo  54', 
lonKitndo.  l.'J.'JO  aC. 

JWt  Camden. — This  is  an  arm  of  Kalce  Strait,  opening  to  the  north  on  the 
western  shore  about  five  miles  directly  south  of  the  south  point  of  Hamilton  Har- 
bor. It  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  wide  at  the  entrance,  runs  south  five  miles, 
then  t<()uth-soutliwest  six  miles  further,  with  a  decreased  width  of  a  mile.  Seve- 
ral islets  exist  at  its  entrance  and  through  its  length.  In  a  cove  on  the  east  shore 
seven  miles  from  the  entrance,  coal  was  reported  (May  1808)  to  exist  in  several 
small  \oiiis,  cropping  out  about  twcTity  feet  above  low-water  mark,  with  interven- 
ing strata  of  liard  rock.  The  coal  itself  is  about  six  inches  in  thickness  and  the 
veins  are  at  varying  distances,  fiom  twenty  to  fifty  feet,  froni  eacii  otlier.  They 
have  a  dip  to  the  southward  of  35°  to  40°,  and  their  direction  is  nearly  east  and 
Avest. 

The  entire  beach  is  a  formation  of  sandstone  from  high  to  low  water  mark, 
and  a  rise  and  fall  of  tide  estimated  at  thirty  feet.  Tlie  harbor  is  perfectly 
safe,  with  good  anchorage  in  six  to  fifteen  fathoms,  soft  muddy  bottom.  Numer- 
ous streams  flov.  into  the  harbor,  and  the  adjacent  country  is  thickly  wooded. 

According  to  Admiralty  Chart  Ko.  2431,  the  position  of  this  coal  is  in  lati- 
tude r.(Jo  42',  longitude  1330  r,o'. 

rortufje  Rnrbor. — Twenty  miles  east  by  south  half  south  from  Povorotny 
(Turnabout)  Island,  in  Frederick  Strait,  lies  the  entrance  to  Portage  or  Percnosna 
Harbor,  one  of  the  anchorages  of  the  Eussian  and  English  trading  steamers,  but 
no  soundings  are  given.  An  islet  lies  off  its  northern  entrance,  which  is  open 
to  the  north  and  readily  noticed  in  passing.  The  country  on  either  side  is  only 
moderately  liigh  and  timbered.  The  harbor  has  a  general  soutli-southeast  direc- 
tion for  four  miles,  and  its  head  is  only  two  miles  from  the  head  of  Duncan  Chan- 
nel, coming  in  froiv.  Stikine  Sound.  The  country  between  this  and  Point  Macart- 
ney is  low  and  moderately  wooded  for  three  or  four  miles  back,  but  the  cape  of 
wliicli  ^Macartney  is  the  western  point  is  (piite  high  and  heavily  timbered. 

Foiiit  Vandqnit,*  on  the  north  side  of  Frederick  Strait,  lies  about  ten  miles 
east  by  north  from  the  islet  oft'  Portage  Harbor,  with  rocks  stretching  one  mile 
south  of  its  extremity.  Vancouver  says  this  low,  narrow  point  of  land  is  two 
miles  long  and  about  half  a  mile  broad.  On  its  western  side  and  at  its  junction 
with  the  main  is  an  anchorage  of  tiie  trading  steamers,  but  with  no  soundings 
given. 

According  to  our  bearings  from  the  three  islets  near  the  entrance  to  Wrangell 
Passage,  a  maf^nilicent  glacier  exists  at  the  head  of  the  cove  or  bay  on  the  east 
side  of  Point  Vandepnt.  Put  the  Aveather  was  th'ck  and  rainy,  and  the  various 
charts  of  this  locality  are  very  ditt'erent  in  tlieir  details,  so  that  this  glacier  may 
be.in  reality  one  laid  down  on  Tebenkolf  nine  miles  southeastward  of  Point  Van- 
depnt, in  latitude  .5(1°  5!)',  at  tlie  head  of  a  small  bay  east  of  a  point  about  six 
miles  northward  «)f  Wrangell  Strait.    Vancouver  says  that  along  this  shore  is  a 

•  Nnmeil  by  Vaucouver  In  1794. 


I 

i 


ALASIOV  COAST  PILOT. 


Ill 


small  oxtcut  of  low,  flat  land,  well  wooded,  lying  inimodiatoly  l)oforo  tlio  lofty 
mountains  which  here  rise  abruptly  to  a  prodiffions  height.  A  few  miles  to  the 
south  of  this  low  margin  the  mountains  come  directly  to  the  water's  edge  and 
"presented  an  un(!onimonly  Avoful  appearance,  rising  to  a  vast  height,  aiul  loaded 
with  an  immense  (piantity  of  ice  and  snow  overhanging  their  base,  August  ll'M.'" 

In  the  Avinter  of  185.'5-'4  one  of  the  California  ice  ships  took  in  a  cargo  of  ico 
from  the  face  of  one  of  these  glaciers. 

Wrangell  Pnsmifc. — This  is  the  passage  from  Stikine  Sound  to  Frederick 
Sound,  by  which  the  interior  navigation  of  the  great  archipelago  is  completed 
without  going  outside.  It  has  not  been  surveyed  in  detail,  but  a  Russian  recon- 
noissance  has  been  published  by  which  a  vessel  at  low  water  may  be  in  a  meas- 
ure guided,  but  without  a  pilot  it  is  advisable  to  sound  ahead,  and  make  the  pas- 
sage about  low  water. 

In  coming  from  the  north  the  entrance  may  be  readily  found ;  vessels  keep 
close  along  the  western  shore  of  Frederick  Strait,  and  threes  miles  after  passing 
the  cape  lying  south  of  Point  Vandeput,  go  on  either  side  of  three  small  wood(?d 
islets,  lying  about  a  mile  off  the  western  shore.  Tebenkoff  has  but  two  islets ;  wo 
noted  three.  About  three  or  four  miles  southward  of  these  islets  the  narrow 
opening  of  Wrangell  Passage  is  seen.  The  general  direction  of  the  i)assage  is 
north  and  south  and  its  length  about  eighteen  miles.  About  midway  two  chan- 
nels enter  it;  one  from  the  southeast  opening  opposite  Vnuks  Island;  the  other 
from  Duncan  Channel.  Both  have  small .  lets  in  their  entrances  and  a  vessel  will 
uot  be  misled  bj'  them. 

The  shores  on  both  sides  of  the  Wrangell  Straits  are  getierally  low  and  flat, 
covered  with  spruce,  and  cut  by  numerous  sloughs,  allording  water-courses  from 
the  high  nuiuutains  in  the  background. 

Vancouver  says  the  land  lying  between  Kake  Strait  and  the  main  is  chiefly  of 
moderate  height,  and  produces  a  "noble  fcjrest  of  large  and  stately  pine  trees  of 
clean  and  straight  growth ;"  ami  the  shores  along  the  bays,  arms,  and  straits, 
between  Chatham  Strait  and  the  main,  are  in  general  low,  and  apparently  lit  for 
cultivation  if  cleared  of  wood.  • 


♦STEPHENS  STRAIT. 

.  From  the  north  s'de  of  Frederick  Strait,  twenty  miles  from  its  junction  with 
Chatham  Strait,  opens  Stephens  Strait,  with  u  v.'!dth  of  twenty  miles  between 
Nepeaii  Point  on  the  east  and  Cape  Fanshaw  on  the  west.  The  fornu-r  is  placed  by 
Vancouver  in  latitude  57<2  10',  and  (h'scribed  as  a  high,  steep,  blulf,  rocky  jioiiit, 
otf  which  lies  a  ledge  of  nnrks  about  half  a  mile.  From  it  Povoroiiiy  f  Tunuthotil J 
Island  lies  Ave  or  six  miles  east-southeast.  Cape  Fanshaw  is  placed  in  latitude 
57°  11',  and  described  as  a  very  conspicuous,  low,  projecting  point,  from  which  one 
shore  trends  sixteen  miles  east  southeast  towards  Point  Vandeput,  and  the  other 
north  eighteen  miles  to  Point  Windham.* 

"  Nnuit'd  1)v  VuiK'imver  in  IT'.M. 


9s^^m 


mmmm 


112 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


From  tills  broad  ontriince  the  strait  ruiis  north  by  oast  for  eighteen  miles  to 
Point  AVMndliani,  av1i«  i-e  it  is  ('ontracted  to  tliree  miles  in  width ;  then  northwest 
by  ntnth  thrce-qnarters  north  forty-five  miles  to  Point  A'den,  with  an  average 
width  of  Ave  miles;  then  west-northwest  for  thirty  miles  to  Chatham  Strait,  at 
Point  Ketreat,  in  latitude  58°  24'.  The  southern  entrance  is  marked  by  nnmerous 
islets,  but  with  broad  passages  and  deep  water  between  them  ;  the  western  shore 
is  much  Inokeii.  The  easteru  shore  is  indented  by  the  large  bay  named  Port 
Houghton.*  The  entrance  is  three  miles  wide,  with  Point  Walpole  on  the  south, 
and  Point  Ilobart  on  the  north,  lying  north  11°  west  and  s(mth  11°  ea.st  from  each 
other.  Off  Point  Walpole  lie  a  number  of  small  islets.  Off  Point  Ilobart  extends 
a  bunk  of  sand  for  a  little  distaiu^o  from  slune;  but  there  is  a  clear  passage 
between  it  and  the  islets,  to  the  eastward  of  which  a  snug  anchorage  is  found 
at  a  considcrabh!  distance  from  shore  in  ten  and  six  fathoms  of  water  over  sand 
aud  muddy  botton).  The  bay  extends  south  70°  east  for  Ave  or  six  miles,  and  is 
bouiuled  by  lofty  mountains,  from  whose  bases  extends  a  small  border  of  low  land 
forming  the  shores. 

About  sixteen  miles  from  Frederick  Strait,  and  ai>parently  in  the  middle  of 
Stephens  Strait,  when  seen  from  the  south,  stretches  Point  Hugh,  with  the  strait 
on  the  east  and  Seymour t  Bay  to  the  west.    Point  Hugh  is  a  "lofty,  rocky  pro- 
montory," off  which  extends  a  ledge  of  rocks  upon  which  there  are  considerable 
breakeis  in  a  southeaster. 

Seymour  Bay  opens  between  Points  Gambler  aud  Hugh,  lying  nortli  29°  east 
and  south  29°  west,  five  miles  from  each  other,  the  •hannel  has  an  average 
width  of  three  or  four  miles,  and  runs  northwest  by  north  for  twenty-nine  miles, 
terminating  in  latitude  57°  51'.  Numerous  islands  occupy  the  northern  ten  miles 
of  the  bay.  The  adjacent  country  is  moderately  high,  and  is  covered  with  timber 
of  large  growth,  excei)t  towards  Point  Hugh. 

Point  Windham  is  in  latitude  57°  30',  and  lies  northwest  by  west  from  Point 
Hugh  four  («•  five  miles,  but  the  nearest  shore  is  directly  west,  and  only  throe 
miles  distant. 

JS^nthward  of  I'oiut  Windham  the  eastern  shore  is  broken  by  two  large  bays. 
The  first  is  llolliham  Bay,*  with  Point  Astley  for  the  south  point,  and  Port  Coke 
for  the  north,  lying  ufU'th  29°  west,  ..bout  four  miles  from  the  former.  In  the 
middle  of  the  entrance  is  a  small  island,  towards  which  a  shallow  baidc  extends 
from  either  shore.  There  are  two  other  islets  inside,  aud  about  which  Vancouver 
found  nuich  floating  ice  in  August,  1794.  The  bay  is  sevn  or  eight  miles  deep, 
and  "  bounded  by  the  lofty  range  of  mountains."  Froin  Point  Coke,  in  a  direction 
■south  l.'io  west  two  ami  a  half  miles  distant,  are  two  rocky  islets  nearly  in  the 
middle  of  the  strait.    The  trading  steamers  pass  on  either  side  of  them. 

The  second  bay  is  twenty-two  miles  from  Point  Windham,  and  was  named 
I'ort  Snettisham  by  Vancouver.    The  south  point  of  entrance  is  Point  Anmer  and 

*  Named  by  Vimcouver  in  1794. 

t  Named  Seymour's  Cbauuel  by  Vancouver,  1794. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


113 


tlie  noitliwest  point  is  Point  Styleman,  situated  in  latitu(lt>  57°  .W,  aiul  lyinpf  two 
and  a  lialf  miles  north  Xi°  west  from  the  tbrnier.  The  bay  extends  nortlieast  lour 
milevS  and  then  soutlieast  tlu-ee  miles ;  the  shores  arc  high  and  steep  and  i)rodueo 
very  few  trees. 

The  Russian  traders  use  an  anchoraffe  in  latitude  58°,  ten  miles  fr<nn  Point 
Styleman,  on  the  same  shore;  no  name  and  no  soundings  are  given.  Twelve 
miles  northwestward  from  Point  Styleman  a  "high,  round  island"  lies  in  the 
middle  of  the  strait,  with  the  trading  vessels'  traek  on  the  east  side. 

Point  Arden,  on  the  west  shore,  is  placed  in  latitude  58°  09',  and  in  longitude 
1.34°  19',  both  by  reckoning.  Here  the  lit  turns  abruptly  to  tlie  westward, 
while  the  glacier  arm  leading  to  a  small  river,  erroneously  called  Tahco  Kiver, 
opens  foiu"  miles  to  the  northeast  of  it. 

The  trading  post  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  named  Talou,  is  situated  in 
a  snug,  Avell  protected  harbor,  opening  by  a  narrow  entrance  into  Stevens  Passage 
from  the  main  shore,  at  a  point  about  six  miles  southward  of  Point  Salisbury. 
There  is  a  small,  thickly  wooded  island  in  Stevens  I'assage  a  little  to  the  north- 
ward of  the  entrance  to  the  harbor,  by  which  mark  it  is  easily  found. 

•glacier  arm  tXAKU  RIVER. 

This  arm  of  Stephens  Strait  opens  from  the  great  bend  of  Stejdiens  Strait ; 
its  western  point  of  entrance  is  Point  Salinhnry,l  about  latitude  58°  12',  and  longi- 
tude 13-10  13'.  With  a  width  of  two  or  three  miles  it  extends  thirteen  miles  north 
11°  east,  when  the  eastern  shore  trends  east  three  miles  and  a  large  basin  is  found 
■with  a  small  islet  nearly  at  its  northeast  extremity.  The  shores  are  backed  ''v 
high  mountains,  in  every  gorge  of  whiith  is  found  a  glacier.  Vancouver  says  that 
in  August  lu!  found  a  compact  body  of  ice  around  the  shoi'es  of  the  basin,  and  the 
adjacent  mountains  rose  with  almost  perpendicular  sides  to  great  elevations;  their 
bases  bordered  by  a  narrow  fringe  of  low  rocky  shore,  with  a  few  scattered  dwarf 
spruce.  From  the  gorges  of  the  mountains  around  the  basin  immense  bodies  of 
ice  were  projected  with  perjiendicular  faces  to  the  water  of  the  basin,  which  then 
admitted  of  no  landing  for  boats.  Simpson,  in  18H.',  says  that  one  of  the  hills 
near  the  fort  terminates  in  the  form  of  a  canoe,  which  serves  as  a  barometer.  A 
shroud  (»f  fog  iiulicates  rain.  Vancouver  found  the  tide  to  rise  upwards  of 
eighteen  feet. 

This  arm  is  in  reality  the  outlet  of  the  Taku,  which  emjities  into  the  north- 
east part  of  the  basin  oast  of  the  islet.  The  general  direction  of  the  river  is  said 
to  be  towards  the  northeast.  Simpson  writes  that,  "this  stream,  according  to 
Mr.  Douglas,  who  asctended  it  lor  about  thirty-live  miles,  jtursues  a  ser])('ntino 
coinse  between  stupeiulous  mountains,  which,  with  the  excei)tion  of  a  few  jioints 
of  alluvial  soil,  rise  abruptly  from  the  water's  edge  with  an  uninviting  surface  of 


•Tho  naiiio  on  Tcbenkoff,  184i?. 

tTliis  niiKst  not  1)0  confoiuKlcd  with  the  Tiilico  liivcr  of  the  interior. — Dai.i.. 

t  Named  l)yVaiieouver  in  1704. 


15 


n 


114 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


snow  iiiid  it'o.  T»  spito  of  the  rai)i(lit.v  of  tlio  (Mineiit  tlio  savapfcs  of  tlio  coast 
pi'ocood  about  a  liundrcd  iiiilcs  in  caiioos,  and  tlicni't'  tiud;;t'  away  on  foot  tlie 
same  distance  to  an  inland  mart,  where  they  drive  .1  profitable  business,  as 
middlemen,  with  neifihlxnins"  tribes. 

In  1.S40  there  was  built  an  establishirient  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river.  The  fort  was  "complete,  with  {{ood  houses,  lofty  pickets, 
amrstrong  bastions;"  its  complement  of  men  was  then  twenty-two. 

Tliere  are  great  numbers  of  deer  in  this  region;  in  1841i  no  less  than  1,200 
skins  were  obtained.  IJighorn  sheep  and  the  mountain  goat  are  very  numerous 
in  this  neighborhood.  The  latter  has  an  outer  coat  of  hair  not  unlike  that  of  the 
«lonic.stic  variety  of  the  species.  ]nst<'ad  of  wool,  the  bighorn  has  a  thick 
covering  of  hair  much  rescnd)ling  that  of  the  red  deer,  but,  with  the  exception 
also  of  the  size  of  the  horus,  it  slightly  resembles  the  domestic  sheep. 

Simjtson  says  seven  tribes  of  natives  visited  the  Taku :  four  from  the  7nain 
and  thiee  from  the  archipelago;  tliey  numbered  4,000  souls  of  the  Thlinkit 
nation. 

The  northwestern  part  of  Stephens  Strait  is  nearly  filled  by  a  very  large 
island  mimed  Douglas,  twenty  miles  long  and  six  miles  broad  in  the  nuddle,  but 
narrow  at  each  end,  particularly  the  eastern,  which  terminates  in  a  sharj)  jtoint. 
The  channel  to  the  south  of  the  island  is  about  two  miles  wide,  with  a  bay  on 
the  south  shore.  The  channel  is  frecxuently  tilled  with  lloating  masses  of  ice  from 
the  glaciers  of  the  main. 

FROM  CAPE  OMMANKY  TO  CA1>E  EDGECUJIBE. 

From  Cape  Ommaney,  in  latitude  'AP  10',  to  Cape  Edgecumbe,  in  latitude 
570  01',  longitude  135°  40',  the  distance  is  sixty -six  miles,  .and  the  general  trend  of 
the  coast  about  ncn'tli  40°  west,  indented  with  numerous  biiys  of  large  and  small 
extent,  and  generally  bounded  by  a  bold,  rocky  shore,  covered  with  spruce  to  the 
■water's  edge,  and  backed  by  a  high  mountainous  country,  very  much  broken  and 
tilled  with  timber. 

KED  CAPE. 

Fourteen  miles,  about  north  40°  west,  from  Cape  Ommaney  is  Red  Cape,  the 
southwest  point  of  a  large  ar:  of  the  sea  making  six  miles  into  the  land  uorth- 
Avard  and  having  a  width  of  two  miles.  Three  other  deep  bays,  Lisvinitchny, 
Toporkof,*  and  Little  Strelki,t  indent  the  shore  between  Cai)o  Ommaney  and  Ked 
Cape. 

PORT   RANKS. 

Thi?"teen  miles  north-northwest  from  Ked  Cape  is  the  south  point  of  the  three 
miles  wid(!  entrance  to  Port  Banks,  with  three  hirge  arms  penetrating  the  island,  one 
of  them  nearly  crossing  to  Chatham  Strait.    The  north  arm  is  a  continuation  ot 


,fc 


"Puffin. 


t  Little  Arrow. 


ALASKA  COAST  IMLOT. 


11.") 


tin'  main  bay,  which  stretches  about  north-northeast  tor  nine  or  ten  miles,  and  in 
this  arm  the  Knssian  navigators  inform  us  there  is  anelunaye.  Konr  mih's  witiiin 
the  entrance  uloufj  the  sontlieast  slun-e,  and  one  mile  before  rounding  the  iioint 
openinff  the  two  interior  arms,  Tebenlcolf  };ives  a  well  prote<-ted  anchoraiic  and 
deep  bay  openinj^  towards  tiie  north.  Tim  sonndinys  in  this  anehoraf;e  are 
lifleen  fathoms, 

Tebenkolf  calls  this  bay  "Whale  IJay,  but  it  is  the  l\nt  IJanks  of  Dixon,  who 
entered  it  in  June  1787.  He  }?ives  a  sketch  of  it,  and  th<'  (Ictails  of  the  soiitii 
haibor  appear  better  than  those  of  Tebenkolf.  He  says,  pajj-e  Kt.'t:  "On  our 
ajuuoachiufj;  the  land  the  channel  ahead  had  the  ai>pearance  of  a  river  from  the 
north,  but  the  tide  setting:  strouf^ly  out  of  it,  and  the  wind  shiftiii},'  to  the  north- 
ward, we  stood  into  a  line  harbor  which  now  opened  to  the  southeast.  At  the 
entrance  we  had  sonndiii^s  from  fifty  to  sixty-live  fathoms  of  water  over  a  rocky 
bottom;  but  as  we  advanced  further  in  the  s(nindinys  lessened  to  twcnty-oiu'  fath- 
«)ms  with  mud,  on  which  we  came  to  anchor,  being  comi»letely  land-locked  and 
within  musket  shot  of  the  shore  both  to  the  northward  and  southward."  He  gives 
nineteen  fathoms  at  the  entrance,  which  is  to  the  eastward  of  two  small  islands 
abreast  the  west  point ;  and  he  has  four  islets  inside,  and  also  a  stream  not  laid 
down  by  Tebenkolf.  Tebenkolf  aptly  names  this  Protection  Bay,  and  tin-  Adnu- 
ralty  Chart  Xo.  2i'M  calls  it  Closed  liay.  The  south  point  of  the  entrance  from 
the  ocean  Dixon  calls  Point  Lander;*  the  north  point  is  unnamed. 

The  geographical  position  of  Point  Lauder,  according  to  Dixon  and  JJenze- 
nmn,  is  latitude  tUP  :i'.y,  longitude  ^•M°  58';  and  of  the  northwest  imint,  latitude 
rAio  ;i.j.O',  longitude  VM°  o!)'.  TebenkotY  has  a  snudl  plan  in  his  chart,  but  it  is  evi- 
dently only  a  reconnoissance. 

This  port  should  be  examined  and  its  capabilities  known,  as  it  may  aflbrd 
good  refuge  and  protection  to  a  vessel  nimble  to  nndvc  Sitka  Sound  by  stress  of 
northwest  winds,  or  heavy  southeast  weather  coming  up. 

La  Perouse  saw  the  opening  of  this  bay  and  named  it  Port  Guibert.  On  his 
chart  its  latitude  is  50°  38^'.  Off  Port  ^ianks  he  saw  Mount  Edgecumbe,  and  gives 
an  erroneous  view  of  it  from  latitude  5(5°  25'.  At  the  same  time  he  saw  Capo 
Ommaney  and  Coronation  Island,  distant  forty-three  miles. 

The  north  point  of  Port  Banks  forms  the  south  ])oiut  of  a  broad'  open  bay 
six  or  eight  miles  deep  and  ten  miles  across.  On  some  Eussian  (iharts  it  is  called 
Rocky  Bay.  La  Perouse  saw  the  opeidng  to  this  bay,  named  it  Port  Necker,  and 
gave  its  latitude  as  5(P  5L'i'.  The  shore  runs  north  fen-  eleven  miles,  and  then 
west-southwest  for  six  or  seven,  forming  this  unnamed  bay,  with  a  cluster  of  large 
islets  near  the  middle  of  it,  and  extending  out  to  the  general  line  of  the  coast. 
They  are  called  the  Egg  Islands,  but  we  find  no  descrii)tion  of  them. 

Thence  to  Biorka  Island,  the  south  point  of  Sitka  Souml,  the  coast  is  cut  by 
several  narrow  arms  running  deeply  into  the  shore,  and  guarded  by  great  nund)ers 
of  islets  and  rocks  laid  down  only  in  a  general  nmnner. 


*  Al'trr  die  KurK<'<iii  of  lii»  Kliip. 


110 


ALASKA  COAST  I'lLOT. 


About  tlirt'O  miles  bcfon^  bcin^j  iq)  with  the  south  point  of  Bioika  Ishiiid  lios 
JJaieor  Ooloi  Islaiid,  whihi  all  tho  suiToiiiidiiif,'  ishiiul.s  are  wooded. 

SITKA  SOVND. 

Uetwoon  Point  Woodhonse,*  on  JJiorka  Island,  and  Cape  EdjyecMunbo,  l.vinfj 
north  HP  west,  thirteen  miles  distant,  lies  tho  ontiantfe  to  Sitka  Sonnd,  having  ii 
d<'pth  of  nin(^ty  fathoms  outside  the  middle  of  tho  ontiuuco,  and  very  bold  water 
in  every  direetion. 

lliorkd  Island  is  conii)aratively  low  find  wooded,  about  two  miles  in  extent, 
noi'th  and  south,  and  the  same  east  and  west.  It  has  a  sunl^en  i'0(;k  oiu^  mile 
south  of  its  south  point,  and  several  islets,  but  along  its  w»'st  and  north  fae»vs  tho 
water  is  thirty  fathoms  deep  close  in  shore.  On  tho  north  faee  of  Biorka,  one  and  a 
half  mile  east  of  tho  mnthwest  p(»int,  is  a  snudl  cove,  opening  to  the  northward, 
with  soundings  of  eleven,  nine,  and  seven  fathoms  laid  down  inside  the  heads. 
Oil'  the  entninee  to  this  eove  are  soundings  in  twenty-live  fathoms,  sandy  bottom. 
Tho  Russian  navigators  assure  us  this  would  make  a  good  pilot  station. 

Two  miles  west  of  the  islet  which  lies  oil  the  northwest  point  of  Biorka  is  a 
single  sunken  rock,  where  a  heavy  sea  breaks  only  once  every  live  or  six  minutes. 
It  is  said  to  have  ten  feet  of  water  on  it,  and,  if  so,  must  be  very  pointed.  The  Kus- 
sian  navigators  inform  nu'  that  they  have  repeatedly  watched  the  break  ajton  it, 
and  that  the  rocky  patch  of  nearly  a  nule  in  extent  laid  down  «»u  tho  English 
chart  No.  2337,  of  Sitka  Sonnd,  does  not  exist.  It  breaks  oidy  in  one  spot,  and 
not  oftener  than  once  in  live  or  six  minutes. 

All  the  adjacent  islamls  arc  low  aiul  wooded,  but  the  main  land  is  well  marked 
by  very  higii  mountains. 

Cape  Hilyecumbe  U  notedly  marked  by  tho  extinct  volcano  of  Mount  lildge- 
cumbe,t  bearing  iu)rth  52°  oast,  four  miles  distant  from  the  extrenuty  of  the  capo. 
The  shores  are  covered  with  timber  to  the  edges  of  the  bold  high  blutls  of  rock 
and  lava,  fringed  with  innunu'rable  rocks.  The  capo  presents  the  aiipearancc  of  a 
wooded  plateau  extending  to  the  base  of  the  mountain,  interrui)ted  onlj-  by  two 
small  hills  between  tho  cape  and  mountain.  But  tho  great  feature  and  landmark 
is  the  mountain  itself,  which  is  peculiarly  nuirked,  ami  has  no  counterpart  in  this 
region.  It  rises  2,8r»o  feet  above  the  sea,  and  the  top,  forming  the  lim  of  au 
ancient  crater,  appears  nearly  horizontal,  and  has  a  diameter  of  two  thousand  feet 
by  Coast  Survey  measurement.  Lisiausky  says  the  basin  of  tho  crater  is  forty  fath- 
oms deep.J  The  sides,  from  the  summit  down,  have  a  gentle  and  regular  inclina- 
tion of  about  twonty-fivo  degrees,  are  marked  by  deep  furrows,  destitute  of  trees 
or  herbage,  ami  present  in  stuilight  a  didl  reddi.sh  appearance.  In  winter  it  is 
covered  with  snow.    It  is  situated  upon  Pitt  or  Kruzolf  Island,  of  which  the  south 

'NiUiidl  by  ViUU'ouver  ill  1794.  On  liis  phnrt  tliiH  luuiio  is  nppliiid  to  a  position  seven  miles 
Routli  of  Hioikii  Island;  but  tbis  coubl  only  bo  to  ono  of  a  nunibor  of  small  isUiuds  strctobing  out 
iVoni  tbc  siiiitb  i)oint  of  Kbitcbi'f  Hay. 

t  DiHcovcri'd  and  named  Mount  San  Jacinto  in  177.'>  by  Bodejja. 

J  Admiralty  ibait,  ti,m)  feet ;  Heleber,  ;t,l,')0  feet ;  Lisiansky  e.stinnitod  it  at  8,000  feet. 


I 


)» 


ALASICA  COAST  TILOT. 


117 


M 


and  east  sides  form  tlio  noitli  and  west  shoros  of  Sitka  Sound  and  tlic  passa^ics 
northward,  wliilc  its  north  side  forms  the  south  shore  of  Salisbury  or  IvlokatciietV 
Sound. 

OH'  Capo  Rdfjooumbe  the  mountains  Crillon  and  Fairwoathor,  distant  one  liun- 
drcd  and  twenty-live  miles  to  the  northwest,  are  distiiuHy  visible  in  clear  weather. 
La  I'erouse  has  a  view  of  tliom  from  a  position  near  this  ea[»e. 

From  Cape  Edjjeeumbc  the  north  shore  inside  the  entranee  to  the  sound  runs 
a  general  and  nearly  stniight  course  of  east  half  north  for  seven  nules  to  Otmoloi 
Point,  or  Point  of  Shoals,  off  whieli,  at  the  distaiu!e  of  a  mile,  lit;  the  Low  Island 
and  roeks,  with  a  passage  reported  between  the  point  and  island.  Nearly  midway 
between  these  points,  and  one  and  si  half  mile  olf  shore,  lies  thi^  moih'rately  hij^h 
wooded  island  of  St.  Lazara  or  Cape  Island,  with  from  twenty  to  five  fathoms  of 
water  between  it  and  the  shore.  Lisiansky  landed  in  a  small  bay  northiioitlieast 
from  Capo  Island,  where  the  shore  was  formed  of  a  lava  elitf  about  thirty  feet 
high. 

The  south  shore,  inside  the  entranee  to  Sitka  Sound,  is  broken  by  innunierablo 
roeks  and  low  wooded  islets,  and  indented  by  large  bays.  The  whole  shore  is  cov- 
ered with  spruce,  making  it  ditlieult  to  distinguish  the  islands.  No  sunken  roeks 
are  known  to  exist  nearer  the  entrance  than  Williams  Bank,  the  and  a  half  miles 
north-northeast  from  the  northwest  point  of  Biorka,  and  lying  some  distance  off 
the  low  islands  inside.  The  bauk  appears  to  consist  of  four  or  five  sunken  rocks, 
upon  some  of  which  the  sea  invariably  breaks. 

AVithin  the  entrance  the  sound  contracts  its  width  to  six  miles  between  Point 
of  Shoals  aiul  Williams  Bank,  with  deep  water  to  and  inside  that  line.  From 
Point  of  Shoals  to  J}ouranotf  Point,  forming  part  of  the  south  shores,  the  bearing 
is  oast  by  south,  the  distance  seveu  and  a  half  miles ;  and  on  this  line  the  souml  is 
contracted  by  the  Low  Island  and  rocks,  one  mile  distant  from  I'oint  of  Slios'ls; 
by  the  Vitskari  and  adjacent  rocks,  three  miles  distant;  by  the  KulichotV  Jfock 
and  adjacent  suidcen  rocks,  five  miles  distant  from  this  sanu' i)oint.  Deep  chan- 
nels exist  between  Low  and  Vitskari,  Vitskari  and  Kulichoff,  and  Kulicli(»ff  and 
the  islets  oft'  BouranofT  Point,  with,  liowever,  dangerous  rocks  in  the  latter.  Be- 
tween Vitskari  and  Otmoloi,  L'  siausky  gives  soundings  in  eighteen,  seventeen, 
twenty,  and  seventeen  fathoms. 

But  the  channel  invariably  used  by  the  Eussians  is  that  between  Vitskari  ami 
Kulichoff.  On  the  English  chart  this  channel  is  erroneously  contracted  by  the 
laying  down  of  a  sunken  reef  extending  one  mile  east  of  Vitskari,  nearly  on  the 
line  towards  Kulichoff.  In  1800  the  Russian  naval  otHcers  laid  down  sixty  fathoms, 
two-thirds  of  a  mile  from  Vitskari,  on  this  very  bearing.  The  captains  of  the  I'us- 
sian-Aniericau  Company  assure  us  that  they  can  and  have  i)assc(l  Vitskari  along 
its  southeast  face  within  half  a  cable's  length  when  steering  a  direct  course  to 
Mochnati,  a  course  north  (iii^  east,  true.  We  have  made  it  close  aboard  when 
coming  in  at  evening,  with  very  thick,  heavy  weather  from  the  southeast,  and 
saw  no  breakers  to  iudicate  such  a  reef;  in  fact,  were  nxisleit  by  not  finding  the 


'1 


118 


ALASKA  COAST  I'lLOT. 


hrciiki'iM  iu'conliiij,'  to  tlio  chart.  We  havf^  also  hcpii  it  from  the  sontlisontli(>ast 
wlicii  (lien-  was  no  Itrcakcr  otf  its  caNtcrn  face,  Imt  the  Idcaivcrs  on  tln^  reef  oiio 
niilc  luiilli  of  it  really  apid'arcd  to  bo  hnsikiiif;  oil'  tlu'  castiTii  face  of  the  rock, 
himI  tlii«  appeaiaiico  may  have  led  to  the  above  error.  It  appeared,  from  tlie  dis- 
tance of  a  mile  or  two,  to  be  about  forty  yards  loiifj  and  ton  feet  above  liigh  watcu', 
wilii  a  roni^li,  irre^iular  surface.  In  smooth  weather  it  has  been  landed  upon,  and 
the  United  kStates  Coast  Survey  has  already  recommended  that  a  li^lit  be  placed 
ui)ou  it,  as  from  this  point  it  would  illuminate  an  arc  <tf  about  7(P  of  tiie  horizon 
beyond  the  sound  from  soutJiwest  by  west  toward  liiorka  Island  to  west  toward 
(Jape  Kd;,'ecumbe,  and  bo  ti  {juido  to  clear  the  rock  ott  Uiorka.  From  tlu^  north- 
Avest  point  of  Uiorka  it  bears  north  (P  east,  distant  seven  miles.  From  the  rock 
olf  J>iorka  it  bears  north  l!l°  oast,  distant  seven  and  a  iialf  miles. 

KulichotV  lJ(»ck  is  laid  down  on  the  Enjjflish  chart  south  by  east  two  miles 
from  Vitskari.  It  is  about  twenty  feet  hit,'h,  and  less  in  extent  than  Vitskaii. 
There  are  sunken  r(>cks  to  the  north  and  south-southwest  of  it,  about  half  a  nule 
distant,  and  om^  towards  Vitskari,  about  a  (puirtor  of  a  mile  oil',  with  doci)  water 
and  dan;,'erous  sunken  rocks  botwcicu  the  Kulicholf  and  the  islets  oil"  Point  Houra- 
nolf.  r>ut  Tobcjukolf  and  the  old  liussian  charts  place  the  Vitskari  ami  Kulicholf 
three  miles  ajmrt,  while  the  latest  unpublished  Russian  examinations  about  Knli- 
cholf  place  the.  reef  a  short  distance  north  of  the  ro»;k,  with  a  passaj^e  of  twelve 
fathoms  between  them  ami  dose  to  the  rock;  and  one  of  tiie  Kussian  navifjtiitora 
assures  us  ho  has  taken  his  ship  tlirough  the  i)assa(,'e.  The  Enjjlish  chart  places 
Kulichott"  more  than  two  miles  from  Tiouranort,  but  the  latest  Russian  deteniiina- 
tion  juakcs  it  only  -  ne  and  a  half  milo. 

On  a  muH'.iM  ri)»l  (lussian  majt  Kuli(!hoff  is  laid  down  south  48°  west  from  the 
governor's  hous"  at'.!  light,  and  the  ledge  about  half  a  milo  northward  of  it. 

For  four  inii,;s  inside  of  Vitskari  Kock  we  find  clear,  deep  water,  up  to  the 
range  of  wooded  islands  and  rocks  lying  for  two  miles  outside  of  Sitka  harbor. 
Tlirough  this  barrier  of  ishuuls  there  are  three  channels  to  the  anchorages  east 
and  west  of  tlic  town.  Those  passages  ai'o  known  as  the  eastern,  middle,  and  west- 
ern, the  former  being  the  longest,  and  the  middle  one  the  shortest,  to  eitlier 
anchorage. 

The  approaches  to  these  passages  are  free  of  all  known  dangers,  except 
towards  the  eastern.  The  Zenobia  Rod*  has  been  imperfectly  laid  down,  but 
the  westernmost  pt)sition  assigned  to  it  is  one  and  tliree-cpuirtcrs  mile  iu>rtlieast, 
half  east  from  Kulichoff  Kock,  when  the  south  side  of  Dolgoi  or  Long  Island 
will  bear  north  (Jfo  oast;  iiiul  the  eastern  point  of  Sandy  island,  on  the  north  side 
of  tiie  eastern  channel,  boars  oast-northoast,  so  that  a  vessel  should  not  bring 
Sandy  Island  anything  to  the  north  of  that  bearing.  The  Zonobia  has  lifteon  feet 
npon  it  at  low  water.  Ono-tputrtcr  of  a  mile  eastward  of  it,  on  the  same  bearing  to 
Bolgoi  Island,  is  the  Kadiii  Rock  with  twelve  feet.  It  is  a  sharp-pointed  bayonet 
rock,  of  very  limited  extent,  and  has  from  ttsn  to  seventeen  fathoms  close  to  it. 


'  Niiiiii'tl  iii'tt'r  the  Aiucrirun  sliip  Zi'iioUiu,  wliidi  Ntiiick  ii|iim  it  nlMmt  lf<r)r>. 


VnlUvMl 


lir<cU  I'hiii'cli 


tfiiiinirri  .", 


SI  I'KA 

ALASKA 


FiMirii     tile    aiiflini'HiSi-  in  (lie  W»*Ht«»i 


Mt\>fiiiuva;anitt 


(iri>tik  t'hiirrh 


lluiiK 


v**)8»«|fg«^«'i9:r- 


S  I  T  K  A 

ALASKA 


ii'lioi'mS«>  in  thp  W»}i»tt>rt»  Tlitrhor. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


119 


V"  I 


rn 


Wlion  vosscls  are  in  the  eastern  elianiiel  tliey  must  keej)  at  least  one  third  of 
a  inih-  south  of  the  ishind,  on  the  north  side  of  the  channel,  until  the  }4'(>\'i'rnor'8 
house  hears  west  of  north  by  west  one-half  west,  when  the  island  may  bo  safely 
apiiroaehed  within  two  hundred  yards. 

In  api»r(>aehing  the  islands  l.vin^  off  Sitka  in  thicik  weathe  •,  the  ollieers  of  the 
eonii)an\  endeavoied  to  iind  the  Island  of  jMoehnati,  whieh  is  from  twenty  to 
thirty  feet  high,  rocky,  and  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  spruce,  whose  dark 
foliage,  with  the  oiacR  rocks  beneath,  brought  out  in  relief  by  the  surf  breaking 
along  its  front  and  on  the  outlying  rock,  makes  it  dis(!ernible  through  the  fog 
when  other  islands  ar<^  invisible.  This  islet  lies  between  the  middle  and  wi'steru 
channels,  live  miles  northeast  by  east  half  east  from  Vitskari,  and  a  vessel 
making  it  can  take  either,  ami  safely  run  for  the  antihorage.  When  the  fog  is  lift- 
ing, from  the  coming  in  of  a  westc^rly  wind,  this  islaml  appears  (irst.  Abreast  of 
]\loclinati  the  western  channel  is  about  three-(iuarters  of  a  mile  wide,  with  a  large 
reef,  bare  at  low  water,  forming  the  western  side;  and  the  luiddle  (channel  is  con- 
tracted by  snidvcu  and  exposed  rocks  to  a  much  narrower  entrance. 

The  English  chart,  based  upon  tl*.'  Russian  survey  of  l.SOit,  gives  a  good  gen- 
eral idea  of  the  channels  and  the  an.  iiorages,  which  should  only  be  entered  under 
the  guidance  of  a  pilot,  or  with  good  local  knowledge. 

The  results  of  the  preliminary  survey  of  the  two  harbors  by  the  United  States 
Coast  Survey  show  that  the  base  liiu'  of  the  original  survey  was  erroneous,  and 
this  may  ]>ossil)ly  explain  the  announcement  on  the  lOnglish  chart  that  "there  are 
discrepaiicies  between  this  chart  and  the  plan  of  Sitka  (I'lJl.S)  which  cannot  bo 
adjusted." 

The  harbor  of  SUha  is  very  contracted,  and,  in  the  western  anchorages, 
numerous  mooring  buoys  have  been  laid  down  by  the  Kussian-Ameri<'an  ("ompany 
near  the  town,  although  this  i)art  of  the  harbor  is  nari'ow  and  marked  by  fhn^o 
sunken  rocks.  The  easte  n  harbor  receives  the  greater  sweep  of  the  sontheasters, 
an<l  a  heavy  swell  is  said  to  be  brought  in  from  the  sound,  so  that  the  c  )mi)any's 
vessels  prefer  to  anchor  n  the  western,  as  they  can  discharge  uKU-e  readily,  and 
especially  oeca.'se  derin;,'  tins  winter  the  ollieers  and  iirews  ;;re  taken  from  the 
ships,  which  are  left  with  only  one  keei)er.  The  liritish  men of-war  use  the  east- 
ern harbor. 

In  the  great  gale  of  October  28,  1807 — the  severest  at  this  i)lace  for  very 
many  years — three  or  four  vessels  broke  adrift  from  their  moorings  ami  severa'. 
wei'e  driven  ashore.  The  steanishii)  .lohn  L.  Stephens  dragged  her  anchor,  but 
having  steam  up  and  getting  her  anelnu',  stcamt'd  through  the  throat  connecting 
the  two  anchorages,  and  anchored  in  nine  fathoms  in  the  eastciti  liarbor.  \\lier(\ 
she  iiide  out  the  gale  easily,  and  afterwards  experienced  great  ditlicnlty  in  getting 
her  aiicluu',  so  firm  a  hold  hatVit  taken  in  the  te'iacious  bottom  of  nuid  and  shell. 
The  Stei)hens  !■,  an  old  Panama  steamer  of  twenty  live  hundred  tons  burden, 
very  high  oi'l  of  water,  i;'ul  had  but  one  anchor,  of  fwo  thousand  p(Uiiids. 


120 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


Tlio  Piiptiiiii  of  the  Stcphoii.s  pronounces  the  bottom  capital  hohling  ground, 
whereas  the  Kussians  have  ehiinied  that  it  is  gravel  with  only  a  covering  of  mud, 
and  that  a  ve.s.sel  hes  uneasily;  but  the  Stepiieus  discharged  the  remainder  of  rhe 
freight  from  tills  anchorage. 

As  the  eastern  harbor  is  larger  than  the  western,  free  of  sunken  rocks,  and 
' ,'  '  '!■  f^f  access,  the  adoption  of  it  as  the  better  anchorage  for  large  vessel:;  is  con- 
fit  '•ecomniended. 

'  geographical  position  of  the  Coast  Survey  astronomical  station,  between 
the  new  IJuitiMl  States  barracks  and  the  church,  is  in  latitude  57°  02'  o'2"  north, 
and  in  longitude  135o  17'  45",  or  9/t.  Olm.  lis. 

The  magnetic  variation  determined  by  the  Coast  Survey  near  the  Russian 
observatory  on  Japonski  Island  was  28°  40'  east,  in  August,  18(i7. 

It  is  proper  to  observe  that  in  the  Kussian  survey  of  180!)  the  latitude  of 
Sitka  was  given  as  57°  03',  and  the  longitude  135°  18'. 

Light  at  ISitka. — From  the  cupola  of  the  governor's  house  a  light  was  shown  to 
vessels  entering  the  sound  at  night  to  enable  them  to  reach  an  anchorage.  It  is 
one  hundred  and  ten  feet  above  the  sea,  and  was  exhibited  (18G7)  when  two  guns 
were  fired.     It  shows  over  all  the  islands  southwest  of  the  anchorages. 

Tidc8  at  Sitka. — From  the  Coast  Survey  tidal  observations  of  two  months, 
from  Augr.  t;  21  to  October  l.'l,  the  mean  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide  is  7.8  feet,  and  at 
the  full  and  change  of  the  moon  ll.'J  feet.  The  extreme  range  observed  during 
the  above  period  was  l.'J  feet,  and  tlie  least  range  2.1  feet.  The  Kussian  charts  and 
autliorlties  give  the  ri.se  and  fall  between  14  and  15  feet,  and  this  has  been  the 
accepted  fact;  but  the  Engil.sh  diait  states:  "  H.  W.  F.  and  C.  0/(.  34w.;  spring 
rise  5  to  7  feet,"  cv.d  discredits  the  Kussian  results.  The  determinations  of  the 
Coast  Survey  give,  therefore,  an  important  correction  to  established  opinions  and 
authorities  upon  this  subject. 

Tiie  following  table  enables  a  prediction  to  be  made,  for  any  required  date,  of 
the  time  and  height  of  high  or  low  water  under  ordinary  circumstances  of  wind 
and  weather: 

The  two  tides  of  the  same  day  are  generally  unequal  in  proportion  to  the 
moon's  declination.  The  time  and  height  can  be  obtained  approxuuately  from 
the  following  table : 


Moan's  upper  nieridlau  pnssngo. 

Moon's  lower  meridian  i  assago. 

Moon's  declination. 

High  water. 

Low  water. 

High  water. 

Low  water. 

Interval. 

Height. 

Interval. 

Height. 

Interval. 

Heiglit. 

Interval. 

Heiglit. 

It.  jr. 

13  08 
IS  38 
13  30 

Feet. 
0.5 
0.3 
7.5 

If.  jr. 

10  13 
18  46 
18  33 

Feet. 

—0.3 

1.0 

4.1 

n.  J/. 
13  3li 

13  38 
13  08 

Feet. 
7.5 
0.3 
0.5 

//.  jr. 

18  35 
18  40 
10  13 

Feet. 
4. 1 

/.I'l'O        

l.U 

—0.1 

IU*NiflMiii>(> 


VnlUy  Mt. 


i 


'":'?'?^*^j»ii"'  '^••~^' 


:  ■;??SW.'«!iSS!.9||'i 


Feet. 
4.1 
1.0 

— 0.fl 


.me) 


lit    -J.-liHI  H 


Ml  •.' 
Ill I< 


'■   ■•^:-v;*i»- 


J»¥  S  » 


»y> 


S  I  r  K  A 

ALASKA 


Frtiiri  Aleiit.Hki  l.slaiiii  in  Kiist<M-n  l]tii-l>oi':<ii-iM>k  ('Inn 


.Ml  -.•Hill  H. 
lii'xoK  l'liui'''l< 


lli'.iil» 


Vnllny  Ml. 
iriMiH 


S  I  r  K  A 


ALASKA 


It'Pn  Uiii'lHuvtiri'i'U  riiiiiM-h  lit'iii-iiin  X-r("E.it 


rin'l 


""     -  I'lTny'ii'Wiirr.-.ii;/.. 


'Tii'rr-"'i""iiiiiiff. 


ATiASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


121 


Tilt'  interval  is  to  bo  added  to  tlio  tinio  of  the  moon's  meridian  ))assa;;'e  for  tlio 
date  required,  to  give  the  time  of  liijjh  or  low  water.  Tlie  time  of  the  moon's 
ui)iMM"  meridian  passage  is  given  in  the  Almanac^  and  the  timt*  of  its  lower  meri- 
dian jiassage  is  the  middle  between  trto  sueeessive  upper  passages.  The  heights 
are  given  in  feet  and  tenths,  and  show  the  rise  above  the  level  of  the  aveiage  of 
the  lowest  low  waters,  to  wJiieh  level  the  soundings  on  the  chart  are  given. 

Sjiring  tUles. — At  the  full  and  change  of  the  moon  the  liigli  waters  will  bo 
one  and  one-tenth  feet  higher  than  the  above,  and  the  low  water  one  and  one- 
tenth  foot  lower. 

Xeup  tides. — At  the  moon's  first  and  last  «piarters' the  high  waters  will  be  one 
and  one-tenth  feet  lower,  and  the  low  waters  will  not  fall  as  low  as  one  and  one- 
tenth  feet. 

Sitka  was  the  in'ineijml  establishment  of  tlie  Hussian-American  Comimny, 
and  comprises  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  good  block  houses,  storehouses,  bar- 
racks, workshops,  saw-mills,  churches,  hospital,  and  the  governor's  head(piartcrs. 
On  January  1,  18(i7,  it  contained  nine  hundred  and  sixty-eight  inhabitants, 
of  which  three  hundred  and  forty-nine  are  Hussians,  and  the  remainder  (-reolcs  or 
half-breeds  aiul  Aleutians.  Outsider  tlu^  stockade  are  forty  larger  Indian  liouses, 
facing  the  westeri.  harbor,  and  occupied  by  not  less  than  one  thousand  Koloslics 
dunng  the  winter.  The  site  of  the  town  is  cramped,  and  it  is  a  mere  (picstion  of 
tinjc  and  expansion  when  these  Indian  louses  will  be  renu)ved.  For  years  the 
Hussians  have  had  about  a  dozen  guns  directed  along  the  i'.wv.  of  the  Kolosiiian 
village. 

It  would  be  useless  to  attempt  to  describe  the  labyrinth  of  channels  ami  islets 
passing  iu  everj-  direction,  like  tentacula,  from  the  sound,  yet  a  few  items  may  not 
bo  without  interest. 

About  nine  miles  south  thrco-iiuartcrs  oast  from  Sitka  (but  tliirtocu  miles  by 
the  usual  courses)  are  tlu^  rapids,  conncHiting  tlu;  waters  of  Dec?!)  Lake  with  the 
southeast  part  of  Oserski  Bay.  At  those  rai)ids,  having  a  fall  of  uiuo  feet,  a  scries 
of  fish  woirs  have  been  constructed  by  the  Itussian  (Company  in  a  very  sultstantial 
manner,  from  shore  to  shore,  and  great  quantities  of  salmon  arc  caugiit  and  cured. 
In  1807,  besides  furuisliing  Sitka,  the  produce  was  live  iiuiulrcd  and  twenty  bar- 
rels, and  there  is  ample  opportunity  to  increase  this  (latch  livolbld. 

A  good  passage  exists  between  the  north  part  of  the  sound  and  the  eastern 
end  of  Salisbury  Sound,  which  enters  from  the  Gulf  of  Alaska,  in  latitudi!  ."»,S^  L'O', 
and  continues  tiirough  IVril  Straits  to  Chatham  Straits.  Tlie  Coast  Survey  has 
made  several  preliminary  examinations  through  these  waters,  and  cliang(!<I  mate- 
rially their  shapes  on  the  English  chart.  But  they  should  not  be  iiin  without  a 
l»ilot  of  good  local  knowledge. 

The  Neva  Passage,  leading  from  the  north  entrance  of  Olga  Strait  lo  Peril 
Strait,  is  (juite  narrow,  and  lias  numerous  sunken  rocks  along  its  shores.  The 
Coast  Survey  made  a  preliminary  examination  of  it  which  indicated  i)lenty  of  water, 
1«  , 


122 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


Itiit  iiiadf  tlh'  passn^f  narrower  than  laid  down  on  tlio  cliarts.  Willi  a  thorough 
Nurvcy  of  this  strait  ami  of  Salisbury  Soiiml,  with  its  Itold  ai)proafh(vs,  another 
(tntranee  is  atlorded  to  Sitka  Sctund  to  ve^^sels  driven  north  of  Cape  Eilgeeunibe  by 
heavy  southeastcrs  or  l>y  the  currents  in  light  airs. 

A  v«'ssel  onee  inside  Sitka  Souiul  and  unable  to  reaeh  the  anchorage,  on 
account  of  heavy  southeast  weather,  will  find  two  small  bays  and  anchorage  about 
t<'n  miles  to  the  north-northeast  of  Low  Point,  and  north  of  Vitskari.  The  first  is 
I'lirt  Kristor  (CroHHj  in  (Jross  I5ay,  and  is  reached  by  following  the  western  shore 
of  the  sound  about  a  mile  distant,  gradually  ajtproaching  it  to  within  half  a  mile, 
alioul  seven  miles  from  Low  Point,  wlu'u  Rocky  Point  will  be  on  the  west,  and 
(inide  Island,  high  and  wooded  but  erroneously  marked  as  a  rock  awash  on  Admiral- 
ty Cliart  No.  U'S.'ST,  will  bear  east;  and  land  to  the  west  of  north  will  apparently  ch)SO 
all  progress.  This  is  the  entrance  to  Cross  Bay,  and  Pent  Ivrestov  lies  to  the  west- 
ward of  lh(^  lirsl  [>oiiit  on  th(!  west.  This  point  lies  about  southwest  by  south 
from  the  ojiposite  point  of  the  port,  and  a  channel  leads  along  the  western  side  of 
it  to  a  large  s(»und  no.'thward.  Eound  tlu^  southwestern  ])oint  pretty  dose  and 
run  wt'stward  iialf  a  mile,  when  anchorage  may  be  had  in  ten  fathoms.  This  part 
of  the  jiort  is  half  a  mile  wide,  north  and  south,  dimiiushes  to  a  very  narrow 
chainiel,  with  six  fathoms,  in  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  and  then  opens  through  a 
very  narrow,  crooked  channel  to  the.  northward.  Tebenkotf  gives  a  small  plan  of 
this  port  in  his  chart.  The  other  bay  is  wide  open  to  the  eastward,  and  its  south 
point  lies  one  mile  to  the  novvh-northeast,  with  a  rock  one-third  of  a  mile  south  of 
the  point,  in  the  middle  of  the  bay  lies  a  small  woody  island.  It  may  be,  jiasscd 
on  cither  baud  and  anchorage  found  in  the  head  of  the  bsiy  in  twenty  fathoms. 
Half  a  mile  east  of  this  island  is  a  rock  showing  ten  feet  above  high  water,  but 
marked  sunken  on  Admiralty  Chart  No.  U;5;{7.  Jn  a  southeaster  there  is  a  large 
swell  coming  into  the  bay. 

In  1787  Dixon  anchored  in  eight  fathoms,  sandy  bottom,  one  mile  north  of 
Otmeloi  or  Shoals  I'oint,  which  he  named  AVhite's  Point,  being  somewhat  pro- 
tected by  a  rocky  reef  off  the  point.  Close  on  the  eastern  face  of  the  reef  he  gives 
soundings  in  sixteen  fathoms;  from  this  anehorigo  Mount  Edgecumbe  bore  west 
by  south  (compass.)     lie  determined  the  latitude  57°  03' ;  it  is  in  57°  01'.5, 

Sitka  Sound  was  fairly  represented  by  Vancouver,  who  named  it  Norfolk 

Sound  in  1704,  but  he  did  not  enter  it.    La  Perouse  had  very  vaguely  indicated 

the  existence  of  a.  bay  here,  but  its  head  was  obscured  by  a  fog.     He  applied  no 

name  to  it.     In  1775  Quadra  named  it  the  IJay  of  Terrors,  and  named  the  north 

jioint  Cape  Engaimo.    Tebenkotf  describes  its  appearance  as  terrible  in  heavy 

southeast  weather;  but  it  is  neither  bettor  nor  worse  than  any  other  large,  open 

sound. 

ST.  joun's  bay. 

Near  the  northern  end  of  the  Neva  Strait,  seventeen  miles  from  Sitka  by  the 
straits,  this  harbor  opens  to  the  westward,  and  directly  towards  Salisbury  Sound, 
of  which  it  may  really  be  considered  the  termination. 


ALA8KA  COAST  riI/)T. 


12:j 


TliP  bny  is  aluHit  ii  mili'  iiiul  a  half  dooj)  towards  the  «'ast-Ho\ttIit'ast,  and  lialf 
u  mile  wide;  it  lias  ^^dod  aiuihora;;*'  near  tlic  head  in  sixteen  fathoms  of  water. 
The  shores  are  hold  and  rise  to  mountains  eov(>red  with  8i»ruee  to  tiie  water's 
c'd;;i'.  The  sticam  at  the  head  eonu-s  into  tlu>  hn.v  thronyli  a  nairow  low  valley 
between  hi;jh  mountains.  We  anchored  here  in  October  1807,  and  discovered 
specimens  of  jjood  <'oal. 

From  Cape  Edgecunibe  the  ffoneral  trend  of  the  coast  to  Cape  Phipps,  in  lati- 
tude 5!P  .'{(>',  lonf;itnde  1.'$!)°  4L",  forming  the  s<mtlieast  juHiit  of  the  entrance  to 
JJehrinj;  or  Yakiitat  Uay,  is  alxait  north  40°  west,  and  tla^  distance  one  hundred 
and  ninety  miles,  Avith  the  greatest  deviation  from  this  course  at  theentran<'e  to 
ley  Strait,  whoso  north  point  is  twenty-six  miles  northeast  from  the  above  coiuse. 

From  Cap(5  Edgecumbe  the  general  trend  to  Caj)e  Fairweafher,  in  latitude 
fiso  oO'.L',  longitude  i;{7»48',  is  north  .'MP  west  to  Icy  Strait,  lying  tifteen  miles 
northeast  from  this  line. 

From  Cape  Edgecumbe  to  Ijotuya  Bay,  twenty-thre(^  miles  southeast  of  Fair- 
weather  Cape,  the  coast  is  bold,  rugged,  and  rocky,  Ixmnded  by  great  numbers  ot 
rocks,  and  indented  by  numerous  small  bays  and  the  large  entrau<re  to  Chatlnnn 
Strait. 

From  Ciipe  Edgecumbe  to  the  island  forming  the  new  point  of  the  entrance 
to  Salisbury  Sound  the  direction  is  nt)rth,  ami  distance  twenty  miles. 

MAUY   BAY. 

Between  Capes  Edgecumbe  and  Georgiana,  seventeen  miles  nortl  .no  shore 
is  deeply  indented  by  a  large  open  bay  nanu'd  by  Vancouver,  but  never  entered 
by  him.  One  of  the  ltu».dan  captains  intbrmed  us  that  he  was  compelled  to 
anchor  in  the  southern  i)art  of  it  for  three  days,  during  heavy  southeast  and 
soutln\est  gales,  at  great  hazard.  On  some  of  the  Russian  chaits  it  is  called 
Shelikott'  Bay,  and  the  south  point  nam  '  Beaver  Point.  A  crude  skettih  is 
given  of  it  on  Bussian  chart  N^o. !),  184  .  '\oni  this  bay  there  is  a  trail  to  the 
sound  north  of  Krestoir  Harbor. 

SALISDUKY   OR   KLOKATCnKF  STllAIT. 


The  entrance  to  this  strait  from  the  Pacific  lies  between  latitude  '}~°  18'  and 
51°  22',  and  through  Peril  Strait  it  opens  in  Chatham  Strait,  in  latitude  r)8'3  I'.V. 

The  south  j)oint,  luimed  ('ape  (reorgiana  by  Portlock,  is  narrow,  compara- 
tively high,  and  wooded,  with  the  Morskoi  or  Sea  Rock  lying  one  mile  north  OIP 
Avest  from  it,  with  twenty-seven  fathoms  between  them.  The  north  |)oint,*  lying 
north  half  Avest  from  the  south  point,  is  an  islanil  named  Klokatchef,  and 
appeared  from  the  inside  of  the  strait  to  be  about  two  hundred  niirl  titty  feet  high, 
and  covered  Avith   spruce  trees,  Avitli  high   mountains   lying  to  the   noitheast. 


*  Numoil  Point  Olgtv  by  tlio  United Stutca  Coast  Survey.    On  souib  KuMHiuii  uhartit  it  is  nillcd 
Kl<il<iit<lirt'  t'ain'. 


1L>4 


ALASKA  COAST  IMIiOT. 


Tlit'Nc  iiioiiiitaiiis  arc  covcied  with  wood  liull'-way  iip,  l)iit  haio  and  rocky  at  their 
.siiiniiiits. 

Tlic  strait  runs  directly  east  flvc  mih's,  coiitractiii;j  at  its  narrowest  place  to 
one  mile  l»etwccii  the  rocks  otV  the  north  and  sonth  shores.  It  opens  into  IMshintj 
Hay  anil  I'eril  Straits  at  the  northeast,  and  into  FFayward*  Strait  an<l  St.  John's 
Ihiy  at  the  sontheast.  OtV  the;  north  shore  the  rocky  islets  extend  hall'  a  mile,  the 
sonthennnost  lyiny  three  and  a  halt'  miles  iuHidc  the  entrance,  and  are  low  and 
hare.  Nearly  ahreast  of  them,  otl"  the  sonth  shore,  lies  the  low,  wooded  island  of 
Sinitsiii,  with  rocks  otY  its  noith  ])oiiit,  and  fonrteen  fathoms  close  to  them. 

lictween  <'a]ie  (icor^j^iana  and  Sinitsin  Island  a  small  bay,  namctl  Ivaliiiina, 
half  a  mile  wide  at  the  entrance,  makes  in  to  the  Hontheast,  and  then  to  the 
sonthwest  for  a  mile  and  a  half,  ami  said  to  aftbrd  good  shelter  in  Hcven  fathoms 
of  water  well  in.  iJnt  from  its  i)osition  it  is  probable  that  tin;  heavy  swell  of 
sontheast  and  sonthwest  j^ales  wonld  be  felt.  On  its  caster  ide  a  wooded  moun- 
tain abont  rtfteen  hnndr(Ml  feet  hi^h  rises  very  abrnptly.  nkolV  gives  a  plan 
of  the  western  «'ntrance  to  Salisbnry  with  this  bay  and  .iinlings.  He  has 
ninety-three  fathoms  outside,  and  anchorage  in  dftecn  fathoms  southwest  from 
the  northeast  jioint. 

Sinitsin  Islmid  lu-arly  touches  the  southern  shore  of  the  sound,  and  rocks  are 
laid  down  between  them.  To  the  southeast  of  this  island  the  shore  is  laid  down 
straight  on  the  nmps,  but  from  our  position  in  the  middle  of  the  scmnd  the  sIku'o 
appeared  to  retreat  well  to  the  sonth,  heading  in  a  low  valley,  with  the  high 
mon'itaiu  that  tianks  Kalinina  J5ay  to  the  west,  and  a  wooded  hill  of  about  six 
hundred  feet  high  on  the  east.  Two  rocks  appeared  in  the  entrance  of  this 
aj)parent  bay,  yet  it  might  atl'ord  a  good  harbor  of  refuge. 

In  the  middle  of  the  eastern  part  of  the  strait  we  found  fifty-five  fathoms  of 
water. 

This  strait  is  the  Bay  of  Islands  of  Cook,  the  Salisbury  Hound  of  Portloek, 
whose  boats  in  17.S7  ])assed  through  it  and  by  the  llayward  Strait  t  to  the  north 
part  of  Sitka  Sound.     It  is  called  Olga  Strait  by  Tebenkoft'. 

Cape  (Icorgiana  was  snbsecpiently  nanu'd  I'oint  Anu'lia  by  Vancouver,  hut  on 
his  chart  the  name  is  applied  to  a  point  four  or  live  miles  further  south.  On  the 
Admiralty  Chart  So.  2337  it  is  designated  Siouchi  rouit 

PERIL  STRAIT. 


This  strait,  leading  from  the  northeast  part  of  Salisbury  Strait  to  Chatham 
Strait,  has  a  tortuous  channel,  with  a  general  north-northeast  direction  for  ten 
i'.iiles,  with  an  average  width  of  three-quarters  of  a  mile.  A  mile  and  a  hal*'  from 
Salisi.iny  Strait  it  oi)ens  into  a  great  bay,  Fish  Hay,  stret<'hing  five  miles  to  the 
eastward,    vjtii  width  of  two  miles.     Under  the  north  shore  of  Fish  Bay,  about 


*  <liily  aflforilB  passnRe  for  boats  iit  Nontlicni  end. 
t  Named  Soiikoi  ou  Admiralty  Chart  No.  'i'i:i7. 


ALASKA  C'OAHT  PILOT. 


125 


two  iiiiU's  cast  of  tlio  nortlnvcst  iMtiiit,  u  small  ha.v  iiiakt's  in  towards  the  iioitli, 
and  an<-liora;;('  is  to  l)t>  had  tli<>i'(>  in  ten  t'atluiins.  It  is  nscd  by  ilu-  Itiissian  ves- 
sels. On  tlie  ivt  st  shore  two  lai'fjo  Imyn  ojion,  the  (list  diroetly  opposite  the  north- 
west point  of  Fish  Hay,  otV  which  lie  some  islets  that  must  lie  iel't  to  the  east- 
Mai'd.  Two  miles  northeastward  of  (his  island,  another  lies  close  nnder  tho 
eastern  shore.  Anehorajje  is  liad  Itelween  the  sonlh  side  of  this  island  and  the 
8horo  in  thirteen  fathoms.  It  is  used  by  the  Uiissian  vessels.  The  navipition  of 
this  strait,  nutil  bettor  known,  should  be  nnule  under  the  direction  of  a  pilot,  and 
at  or  near  slackwati'r  low-tide,  as  there  are  si'veral  narrow  places  wliere  the  cur- 
rents and  counter-currents  are  very  strong'  and  dan};ei'ons  to  a  side  wheel  steamer. 

From  the  nortliern   side  of  Peril  Strait,  about   midway  throujfh,  an  unex 
jdored  jiassafre  is  reported  to  exist,  leading;  northward  to  the  south  shores  of 
Cross  Honnd  in  Icy  Strain 

Near  the  eastern  entrance  of  Peril  Strait,  on  the  northern  shore,  there  is  a 
small  bay  formed  on  the  west  side  of  a  ]»oint  Jnttinjj  out  nearly  half  a  mile,  it  is 
about  five  miles  west  of  the  northeastern  entranee,  is  named  Lindenber};  Jlay, 
and  is  used  by  the  Russian  vessels.  In  lS(i7  a  e(uiple  of  small,  rude  lionses  were 
on  the  shore  behind  the  sandy  beach.  The  country  behind  is  very  lii^h  and  cov- 
ered with  tiinl)er. 

From  the  north  point  of  Salisbury  Strait  to  Cajie  Edward,  in  latitude  .')7''  .'!!)', 
louffitmh'  l.'5(io  14/^  ti,o  general  trend  of  the  coast  is  mnlh  UP  west,  and  the  dis- 
tan(!e  twenty-ftmr  u)iles,  with  a  slightly  retreating  shore  of  bold  clills  wooded  to 
their  edge,  and  innumerable  rocks. 

KIIAZ   BAY. 

Six  miles  northward  of  S.alisbnry  Strait,  TebenkofT  has  a  bay  called  Klia/, 
entering  tlie  laml  about  three  miles  "astward,  but  has  rocks  nuirked  in  tho 
entrance.    We  find  no  details  or  inforimition  about  it. 

From  Salisbury  Sound  to  ley  Strait  tho  coast  is  borderc^d  by  low  wooded 
islands,  anu)ng  whicli,  Portlock  says,  tliere  ai)iiear  several  ])laces  of  good  shelter. 
The  mountains  rising  almost  directly  from  the  coast  are  quite  high  and  irregular, 
some  w  ell  wooded  and  others  quite  bare. 

CAPE  EDWAKD. 

Between  Kliaz  Bay  and  this  ''ai>e  the  bold  coast  line  recedes  a  few  miles,  but 
the  general  direction  is  maintained  by  the  great  uund)er  of  outlying  islands;  to 
this  bend  of  the  shore  Tebenkoff  has  given  the  designation  P>ay  of  Islands. 

Vancouver  says  that  off  Cai)e  Edward  lies  a  cluster  of  snnill  islets  and  rocks. 
Tebenkoff  has  the  islets  and  rocks,  and  lays  the  cape  down  as  broad,  extending 
two  miles  north  and  south,  bold,  high,  and  rocky. 

Seven  miles  to  the  north-northwest  of  the  cape,  and  almost  on  the  line  to 


T 


12(5 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


Cross  Ciipc,  T('l)(Milvf)fr  lays  down  some  rocks  or  islets  three  miles  off  the  const 
and  two  I  lilcs  f'rotii  the  neiirest  islets. 

The  .'.oiith  point  of  the  capo  is  placed  in  latitude  58°  ."59',  and  longitude 
13G0  14'. 

From  Cape  Kdwanl  to  Cape  Spencer,  in  latitude  58^,  longitude  ^W°  :W  form- 
ing the  uorlhwest  noint  of  the  entrance  to  fiiy  Strait,  the  {-eneial  direction  of  the 
coast  is  north  10- west,  and  the  distance  thirty-foiu-  miles,  passing  tangent  t« 
Cape  Cross,  in  latitude  57°  50'. 

ILINA  HARBOR. 

This  is  a  siniill  contracted  bay,  of  which  we  find  a  luthlished  chart  by  the 
])ilot  Ilina,  'tut  without  date.  It  is  not  iiid'cated  on  Tebenkoff',  but  or  Miother 
Itiissian  chart  its  entrance  is  laid  down  about  two  miles  east-northeast  of  the 
island,  lying  sex  en  miles  north-northwest  of  Cape  Edward.  From  its  sjnallness, 
and  being  open  to  the  south,  it  Avould  appear  of  no  importance.  Ilina  places  its 
douthciist  point  of  entrance  in  latitude  07°  4(5',  longitude  130°  IC,  with  islets 
lying  three-cpiarters  of  a  mile  south  of  it.  The  northwest  i»oint  of  entrance  lies 
northwest  by  north  half  a  mile  Irom  the  s<tutheast  point,  with  islets  half  a  mile 
southwest  by  south  from  it.  II(>  has  one  line  of  soundings  from  twelve  fathoms  at 
the  approaches,  and  ruuii'iig  close  along  the  eastern  shore,  with  eight  Cathoms, 
between  it  and  the  iirst  small  islet  inside  the  point,  over  a  hottom  of  mud,  sand, 
and  muscle  shells.  His  anchorage  is  in  the  northeast  part  of  the  bay,  in  eight 
I'athonis,  but  an  islet  on  (he  western  shore  lias  a  sunken  rock  to  the  northeast.  A 
narrow  arm  of  the  bay  continu»>s  north-northeast,  with  ten  fathoms  at  tlie 
entran(!e.  In  the  shore  an  intricacy  of  small  oluunels  in  the  northeast  is  marked 
by  Koloshian  habitations. 

A  i|uartcr  of  a  mile  east  of  the  southeast  point  of  entrance  is  marked  the 
vreck  of  a  tender. 

roRTLOCK    IIARBOK.* 


This  large  day  has  been  fully  desci-ibed  by  I'ortloek,  but  his  sketch  of  it  is 
mere  y  a  rough  estimate,  and  he  makes  no  mention  of  d«'termiiiiiig  its  latitu«le, 
althoi'jjh  lis  map  i)laces  his  anchorage  inside  the  north  entrance  in  latitudi^  57*^ 
4!)',  and  \'ancouver  says  that  about  six  miles  lun-th  of  Cape  Edward  the  harbor 
that  ajtpeared  of  easiei't  access  wiis  considered  Portlock  Harbor,  in  hititude  'u^ 
44',  but  the  weather  was  thick,  foggy,  and  rainy,  and  the  shores  not  well  seen. 

I'oitlocK  says:  "On  drawing  near  the  onening,  and  about  two  miles  from  the 
shore  to  the  northwest  of  it,  we  had  tw'enty  to  twenty-tive  fathoms  of  water  over 
a  muddy  Itottom,  and  just  in  the  entrance  were  some  high,  barren  rocks." 

The  following  is  the  best  description  that  can  be  drawn  from  I'orth.ck's 
sketch  and  text:  The  o]tciiing  to  Portlock  Harbor  lies  between  two  points  lying 
northwest  and  southeast  Ironi  each  other  and  distant  from  tiiree  to  four  miles 


*  Ntinied  by  Portlock  1787. 


ALASKA  COAST  IMLOT. 


127 


ai)ait.  Tliis  ontriiiico  is,  lio\vov«'r,  divided  into  tliroo  i)assiiy;os  by  two  larj;t>,  I)liilV, 
wooded  islands  iyin^-  directly  botwi't'ii  tiic  ))()iiits.  Tlii'  southeast  isliuid  icfeivcd 
file  iianic  of  lloj^aii,  idd  that  to  th«  northwest,  Hill.*  The  south  passage  is  aiiout 
half  a  niih^  \vi(h',  with  bold  slu)res  and  twenty  fathoms  of  water.  The  nii»hlle  pas- 
safjc  is  a  mil"  wide  at  tlu'  outer  piut,  but  at  the  inner  jtart  is  eonlracted  to  half  a 
mile,  with  ten  fatlioais  of  water,  b^  two  bare  islets  and  rocks  from  the  southeast 
point  of  Hill  Island.  The  northern  passage  is  narrow,  and  no  soundiiifjs  aro 
given.  Rocks  lie  oft'  the  southeast  point  of  the  bay,  off  the  south  point  of  Ilogiiu 
Island,  and  bare,  rocky  islets  and  rocks  oil"  the  northwest  point  of  llo;;an  Island. 
The  south  side  of  Hill  Island  is  "low  land,  forniiuf:;  itself  into  several  small  bays, 
from  whose  points  are  breakeis  at  no  great  distance,"  with  bold  rocks  extending 
nearly  half  a  mile  otV  the  southeast  \mnt. 

The  deepest  water  in  the  middle  passage  between  Hill  and  Tlogan  Islands  is 
l(>;'iy  s'x  fathoms  over  rocky  bottom;  the  length  of  this  i)assage,  is  about  a  mile; 
has  boltl,  rocky  shores,  and  the  course  through  it  is  lu-arly  northeast  Ity  east. 
From  the  skelv  i,  the  best  course  in  would  be  to  steer  erst-northeast  for  a  wooded 
islet  inside,  and  lying  half  a  mile  north-northeast  from  the  north  ](oint  and  islet 
off  Hoj;au  Island;  between  this  wooded  islet  and  Ilogan  Island  a  dciilli  of  thirty- 
two  fa'.lioms  is  given.     The  southeast  passage  is  about  a  mii;>  in  length. 

Inunediately  upon  passing  the  bold  rocks  otV  the  southeast  i)oint  of  Hill 
Island,  "le  water  deepens  very  <(uickly  to  tiiirty  and  forty  fathoms,  and  a  most 
spaci»)us  anil  excellent  harbor  oi>ens  to  view,  trending  to  tin;  northwest  an.d  south- 
east, and  running  deep  into  tlu;  northwanl,  with  a  number  of  small  islands  scat- 
tered about.  IJinming  np  towards  the  northwest  part  of  the  liarboi',  and  after 
passing  the  small  island  close  to  tin;  north  side  of  the  noitlieast  i)oint  of  Hill 
Island,  I'ortlock  anchored  in  thirty-one  fathoms  of  water,  muddy  bottcnn ;  lln> 
rocks  ofV  the  east  part  of  Hill  Island  being  Just  shut  in  by  the  small  island,  and 
bearing  south  three  or  four  miles.  (According  to  ihe  sketch  they  bore  al)out 
south-southeast,  distant  on  mile,) 

The  country  adjacci  (  to  Portloc'k  Harljor  abounds  with  white  cedar,  which 
was  cut  and  sawed  intu  shcathing-boards.  This  is  evidently  the  yellow  cedar  of 
Alaska. 

Tebeidvot^'s  chart  gives  no  idea  of  a  deep  bay  in  this  locality,  although  he  has 
the  name  ill  latitude  57°  4.V, 

Qouhiintj  llarJior. — The  entrance  to  this  harbor  is  nearly  abreast  of  the  north 
entrance  to  Portlock  Harbor  and  about  one  a.,d  a  half  mile  north  of  his  anchor- 
age in  the  latter.  It  is  represented  as  nearly  Half  a  mile  wide,  but  nearly  closed 
liy  a  wooded  island  running  close  t<»  the  southwest  point  of  the  iieninsuhi  between 
Gou'ding  and  Portlock  Ilarbiu's,  with  six  fadioms  in  the  ehann<'I  aroiinil  the  west 
end  of  the  island.  Tin-  harbcn-  runs  about  four  or  live  miles  to  (he  northeast,  with 
a  wiilth  ot  alii'iit  a  mile,  and  two  broad  arms  running  to  the  northwest.  It  has 
ninnerims  snndl  wooded  islets  in  it,  and  a  depth  of  six  fathoms  nmy  be  carried 


Niim«il  lifter  Portlook'it  iU48iMt.Hut  triulur. 


128 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


most  ()(■  tlic  way  np.     The  sketcli  is  very  evidently  an  eye  sketcli,  and  tlie  view- 
very  crnde  and  erroneons,  for  it  represiMits  ])a]ni  trees  growing:  on  tlie  shores. 

In  hititnde  ~)H°  T)!'  I'ortloelc  lias  a.  bay  three  niilos  deep  east-northeast,  with 
two  islets  oil'  the  northwest  point,  and  others  a  mile  or  two  sonth  of  the  sontli- 
east  pe«int. 

POINT   BINGHAM. 

This  roeky  headland,  in  latitnde  o8o  03',  longitnde  ^30o  27',  forms  the  south- 
west point  of  the  entrance  to  ley  Strait,  and  lies  south  1(P  enst,  eleven  miles  from 
(Jape  Si)eneer.  Between  it  and  Oape  Edwar.l  the  coast  is  bold  and  rocky,  guarded 
by  islands,  indented  by  two  bays  three  or  four  miles  deej),  and  by  a  broad  entrance 
to  I<'y  Strait,  ten  miles  south  of  Point  IJingliam  and  six  miles  south  of  Cape 
Cross. 

The  bays  were  judged  by  Portlock  to  art'ord  good  shelter,  but  the  vast  num- 
ber of  wooded  and  bare  islauds  and  rock  that  extend  to  the  distance  of  three  or 
four  miles  from  the  shore,  will  render  entering  such  harbors  unpleasant  and  haz- 
ardous until  better  known  and  described. 

CfDs.s  ('(ipc,  of  Cook,  lies  in  latitucU^  ^TOoT',  six  miles  south  of  I'oint  IJingham, 
and  is  in  reality  the  wt stern  point  of  Jacob  or  Khaz  Lsland,  around  the  south  and 
east  faces  of  which  u  strait  one  mile  wide  connects  Icy  Strait  with  the  ocean  near 
Portlock  Harbor.  At  the  southeast  part  of  the  cape  a  bay  one  mile  wide  aiul 
three  deep  is  laid  down  by  Tebenkoft'  in  an  east-northeast  direction.  Cook  says 
the  soiit'ieast  ])oint  of  Cross  Sound  is  a  high  promontory  which  was  naraed  t!ross 
Cape.  J'oint  Bingham  was  named  by  Vancouver  in  1701: ;  by  the  Itussians  it  is 
sometimes  called  Cape  Takhanis. 

The  entraiu'c  is  eleven  miles  wide  between  Cape  Spencer  on  the  north  and 
Point  Bingham  (m  the  south,  bearing  south  HP  east  from  the  former. 

N'aiicouver  describes  Cape  Spencer  as  a  conspicuous,  high,  blulf  promontory, 
oil"  which  (^vtend  some  rocks  to  the  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half  It  is  long  ami 
terminates  in  a  narrow  point,  with  the  outer-shore  stretching  nearly  northwest, 
and  the  inner  shore  north.  The  cape  is  placed  in  latitude  58°  13'.4,  longitude  VMP 
31',  by  Telienkod'.  Point  Bingham  is  not  described,  but  its  rounding  point  is  a 
rocky  blulV  with  small  islets  along  its  face,  and  the  height  decreasing  eastward. 
The  point  is  placed  in  latitude  58^03',  longitiule  130°  27'.5,  according  to  Tebenkolf. 

The  entrance  to  this  strait  is  wide,  open,  and  unobstriu'ted  by  rock,  shoal,  or 
island.  This  api)ears  to  be  the  ease  for  t(!n  miles  within  the  heads,  and  Vancouver 
says  tliat,  if  it  possesses  any  navigable  objection,  it  is  the  unfathomable  depth  of 
water  which  everywhere  exists  except  very  near  the  shores,  along  which  in  many 
places  are  detached  loeks,  lyii-'g,  however,  out  of  the  way  of  navigation,  and  sulli- 
ciently  cons]>i('uous  to  be.  avoided.  InsiiU'  of  Cape  Spencer  the  strait  expands 
into  a  great  bay  running  titleen  miles  north  northwest,  and  from  ten  to  four  miles 
wide.  Six  miles  inside  of  Point  llingham  a  passage  two  miles  wide  opens  to  the 
Bouth-sontheast  ami  runs  ten  miles  in  that  direction,  when  it  turns  iibruptly  to 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


129 


tlio  west-southwest,  and  reacLos  the  ocean  in  ahout  six  or  ei};ht  iiiiU's,  in  hititudo 
57°  53',  four  miles  southwest  of  Cape  Cross,  where  PorthK-k  noted  the  "al)))ear- 
ance  of  a  harbtn"  in  1786.  This  passage  lias  been  named  Little  Cross  Strait  by 
the  United  States  Coast  Survey. 

Cross  Sound  has  been  named  ley  Strait  by  the  lliissians,  and  appears  to  well 
deserve  the  apiu'llatioii.  Tebenkotf  says  that  ice  is  found  there  all  the  year, 
impeding  navij-ation ;  and  in  July  an  A  August  Vancouver's  ollieers  found  part  of 
the  passage  almost  elosed  with  the  ice.  l-'requently  the  masses  of  ice  are  detached 
from  the  face  of  the  glaciers,  covered  witli  gravel  and  earth,  and  these  drifting  in 
the  sound  are  often  taken  for  rocks  awash.  Vancouver  mistook  tiiem  and  fonntl 
110  soundings  with  eighty  to  ninety  fathoms.  Upon  the  Kiissiii  ,  chart  are  nnirked 
the  positions  of  the  dilferent  glaciers  that  come  down  from  the  terminal  sjuir  of 
the  IMount  Julias  and  Fairweather  range  to  the  heads  of  the  bays  opening  upon 
the  luuth  shore  of  the  strait. 

The  general  direction  of  the  strait  is  about  northeast  by  east  (jnarter  east 
for  thirty  miles,  then  southeast  by  east  for  twenty-four  miles  to  Chatham  Strait. 
C'aiK'  Spencer  is  sometimes  c;dled  Cape  Tsianikhta.  Tin;  first  anchoi'age  insider 
the  sound  is  on  the  south  shurc,  about  lour  or  five  miles  eastward  of  I'oint  JJing- 
hain,  and  one  mile  west  of  the  ncutli  entrance  of  Little  Cross  Strait.  It  is  evi- 
dently very  contract  md  no  soundings  are  laid  down,  althongli  tlie  track  of  the 
trading  vessels  is  laid  III '«u  to  it. 


POUT  ALrnoui'. 

Vancouver  has  given  a  sketch  of  liiis  l»ay,  the  entrance  to  which  is  sit  iialcd 
on  the  south  shore  of  ley  Strait,  ten  or  eleven  miles  ■lortheast  (piarter  north 
from  Point  P.inghaiii,  and  ten  railes  east  b\  south  from  Cape  Spen(;er.  The 
entrance  to  tlu;  bay,  opening  from  the  sound,  lies  between  two  islands  north  and 
south  of  ea(rh  otiuu',  and  is  bcu'densd  l)y  a  nuinl)crof  rocks  and  islets.  It  ims  nine 
fathoms  of  water  in  it,  over  rocky  bottom,  with  thirtv  and  forty  fathoms  around 
this  ledge.  "The  channel  is  clear,  free  from  dangei'.  .nd  is  one  and  a  (fuarter  mile 
in  width,  with  a  tolerably  snug  cove,  just  withii  iiie  entrance  iind  off  the  south 
face  of  the  western  jtart  of  the  island,  that  forms  the  north  point  of  entiaiu-e." 
Here  Vancouver  ancliored  in  fourteen  fathoms,  a  cable's  length  fnnu  siiore. 
Tebenkoft"  puts  the  anchimige  down  in  ten  fatliouis,  sandy  bottom,  "Tins  high 
narrow  island  affords  great  protection  to  the  bay,  which  is  two  and  a  hull'  miles 
wide  just  inside.  Nearly  in  the  middle  of  the  bay,  and  one  league  s(uifheast  by 
south  from  the  anchorage,  are  sonu'  detached  rocks.  Th(>  island  forming  the  south 
point  of  entranc(!  is  altout  two  miles  long,  and  stretches  to  the  south-soulheast 
toward  Point  Lucau,  from  \\\\'uh  it  is  sei)arated  one  inile,  but  the  space  is  filled 
with  numerous  islets."  "At  Point  Lucau,  wliich  is  situated  IVoia  the  anclioiage 
south  li.'P  east  four  and  a  half  miles,  the  wi<lth  of  the  harbiu'  is  two  miles,  from 
whence  it  extends  south  30^  east  about  six  miles,  and  terminates  iu  a  small  basin 
17 


130 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


that  .'itloids  good  an<l  socnif^  iinclionif-o,  tlie  best  passage  into  which  is  on  the 
pastern  shore;  rocks  and  an  islet  gnarding  the  Avest."    Vanconver  gives  the  hiti- 
tudc  of  his  anchorage  58''  12';  Tebenkoff  gives  the  longitude  130°  12'. 
The  surrounding  country  is  covered  with  spruce  trees. 

ISLANDS  IN  ICY  STRAIT. 

The  islands  that  lie  nrrth  luirtheast  from  Port  Althorp  contract  the  middle  of 
the  strait  very  much,  and  almost  close  the  passage  to  iuc  "-.toi.  The  group  consists 
of  one  low  and  two  high  rocky  islands,  with  some  rocks  and  islets  among  them. 
Between  these  islands  and  the  shores  that  form  the  north  and  south  sides  of  the 
sound  there  are  two  narrow  channels;  the  northernmost,  being  the  widest,  is 
nearly  a  niil<;  across  ;  the  southernmost  is  about  half  that  width;  both  of  which  are 
free  from  ro<ks  and  shoals  or  any  other  obstructions  than  the  large  masses  of 
fh)ating  ice  which  at  that  time  of  the  year  (July)  rendered  each  of  these  channels 
very  dangerous  to  navigate.  Tin.  track  of  the  Kussian  steamers  is  laid  down 
through  tlif  southern  passage,  keeping  the  south  point  of  the  islaiui  (;lose  aboard. 
After  passing  it  two  or  three  miles  tiiu  course  is  about  east  by  north  half 
iKulh  for  fourteen  miles  to  Point  Adolphus,  on  the  south  shore,  with  a  deeply 
indented  bay  to  the  southward.  Nine  miles  sontl.east  from  Point  Adolphus  is  the 
twoniile-wide  entrance  to  Port  Frederick  of  Vancouver,  being  tli  •  north  entrance 
to  two  unexplored  passages.  The  western  one  is  said  to  lead  nearly  south  to  the 
northern  bend  of  Peril  Strait,  and  the  other  southeast  thirty  miles  to  Chatham 
Strait,  opening  just  south  of  I'aoloft"  Bay,  and  jwssibly  communicates  with  it.  lu 
the  entrance  to  Port  Frederick,  which  opens  directly  to  the  north,  lie  two  or  three 
large  islets  olV  the  western  shore,  Avith  deep  passage  on  the  western  side  of  the 
northern  island.  The  ..nchorage  of  the  English  and  Russian  trading  steamers  is 
on  the  east  side  of  the  entrance,  about  three  miles  south  of  the  northern  point,  and 
between  the  eastern  shore  and  t]u»  first  island  under  it.  Xo  soundings  are  laid 
down. 

The  northeast  point  of  the  entrance  to  this  port  was  named  Point  Sophia  by 
Vancouver.  It  has  a  high  hill  to  tlie  southward  for  two  miles,  and  then  a  low 
neck  of  land.  From  Point  Sojdiia  to  Point  Augusta,  forming  the  southeast  point 
of  the  eutranec  into  Chatham  Strait,  the  general  trend  of  the  slioni  is  southeast 
by  east  ihird  east  for  seventeen  i' ilcs,  and  is  eomjjosed  chiefly  of  rocky  cliffs, 
with  islets  and  detached  rocks  lying  at  sonu^  distance  from  the  shore,  which  was 
compact,  not  very  high,  but  well  covered  with  wood. 

S'ASKA  HAY. 


Five  n\iles  west-northwest  from  Point  Augusta  the  Kussian  traders  have  an 
anchorage  laid  down  in  Spaska  JJ.iy.  The  extreme  nortliwest  point  is  two  miles 
north  of  the  entrance  of  the  bay,  which  runs  westsouthwest  about  one  mile,  with 
thirty-live  fathoms  in  mid-entrance,  diudnishing  to  four  over  a  level  bottom  half 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


131 


way  up  the.  liay.  The  Russians  anchor  in  a  very  sniall  eovc  jnst  within  the  south- 
east point  of  entrance,  in  four  fatlionis  water.  Tiie  hititiuhi  of  this  i)oint  is  j?iven 
by  Tebenkoff  as  58^  06',  ami  U)a„itu(lo  135°  08'.  A  sketch  is  given  on  tlic  IJussian 
map  Xo.  20. 

On  some  Russian  charts,  and  on  Admiralty  (Jliart  No.  -'t.'ll,  this  harbor  is  hiiil 
(U)wn  on  the  west  side  of  tlie  lirst  prominent  point  seen  westward  from  I'oint 
Augusta;  ou  Tebeidcoff  it  is  ou  the  oast  side  of  that  point. 

OCEAN  COAST  NOKTIIWAUD  OF  CAPE  SI'EXCER. 

For  twenty  miles  north  of  Cape  Sp>iicer,  Vancouver  says  the  coast  is  com- 
posed of  a  steep,  Avoody  shore,  much  indented  with  coves  or  bays,  of  a  hilly, 
uneven  surface,  with  some  rocks  and  rocky  islets  scattered  along  it  ab'>ut  a  mile 
distant. 

icv  CArE. 


Fifteen  miles  northwest  from  Cape  Sjx'ncer  is  Tcy  Cai)o,  having  a  small  open 
bay  on  the  eastern  side,  making  in  a  mile  or  two  northward,  and  dislingnished 
by  having  the  first  sea-coast  glacier  at  the  northeast  side  of  it.  A  small  island 
lies  well  up  in  the  bay,  and  Tebenkoff  has  one  nearly  a  mile  south  of  the  cape. 

La  Perouse  indie.ites  this  bay  on  his  ma]);  but  hence  southward  to  (^apo 
Edgecumbe  his  shore  and  positions  are  very  erroneous.  The  shores  to  the  north- 
west and  southeast  arc  bold  and  I'ocky  and  wooded. 

l.ITUYA  n/V. 

Thirty-two  I'.ules  northwest  from  Cape  Spencer  is  the  narrow  and  dangerous 
ojjening  to  this  ii„y,  — hich  has  a  certain  im])ortanee  as  being  tlie  oidy  place  which 
La  Perouse  examim..  in  detail,  and  whieji  lie  pronounced  the  most  extraordinary 
place  in  the  world,  and  wJiere  he  lost  two  boats  and  twenty-three  men  of  his 
expedition. 

Seven  miles  west  of  the  entrance  he  found  soundings  in  thirty  two  fathoms 
muddy  bottom.  This  bay  ]U'esents  the  aitju-arance  of  a  great  llssiire  in  the 
elevated  plateau  of  this  reach  of  the  coast,  about  a  mile  wide  at  the  entiance  ami 
two  miles  inside,  running  six  oi-  se\-en  miles  inland  north  10°  east,  and  then  ojuMt- 
ing  into  twt)  large  arms  at  right  angles  to  the  former  course.  The  eastern  arm  is 
one  mih^  wide,  and  fcmr  miles  long  south  T.'P  east;  the  western  one  about  the 
same  width,  four  miles  long  north  oL'^  west,  with  soundings  iu  both  indicating 
great  lupth,  but  the  eastern  arm  has  less  depth. 

The  two  points  of  the  entrance  from  the  ocean  lie  only  five-eighths  of  a  mile 
from  each  other  U])on  the  beaiiny  north  (iri-^  west;  but  the  available  passsage  is 
contracted  by  a  great  rocky  reef  stretching  nearly  five-eighths  of  a  mile  south  l(P 

cast  from  the  western  point,  and  nearly  on  a  line  with  II uler  ro<ky  shore  to 

the  westward.     Kocks  also  lie  o(f  the  eastern  point   lor  a  (piaiter  of  a  mile;  and 


132 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


V-."'  I'Jasfrni  Rod;  iK»t  always  visible,  lios  tUrco-oiffliths  of  a  inilo  south  of  the  oast 
IX'u'  and  a  (iiiarter  of  a  mile  south  (i(P  east  from  the  southeastern  extremity  of 
the  reef  makinf^  out  from  the  west  point.  Inside  the  eastern  rock  is  Cormorant 
Kocl;  at  the  narrowest  part  of  the  passage,  wliich  is  here  only  three  hundred  yards 
wide.  La  I'erouse's  boiits  souiuled  across  the  entrance  for  two  hours,  and  found 
seven  and  eight  fathoms  of  water  in  the  middle  of  the  passage,  and  five  fathoms 
witliin  forty  yards  of  the  rocks  on  either  side;  inside  they  reported  ten  and 
twelve  fathoms,  with  good  bottom,  with  the  water  very  smooth,  while  the  reefs 
were  eovensd  with  breakers. 

The  course  in,  according  to  the  mai>,  is  noith  bj'  west,  keeping  close  to  the 
eastern  end  of  the  western  reef,  and  running  close  along  its  eastern  facc^  with  Hood 
curi'ent  to  a  small  cove  one  mile  from  the  passage,  close  under  the  western  rocky 
point,  where  the  best  anchorage  is  found  in  five  and  six  fathoms,  over  sandy 
bottom,  where  the  point  will  bear  east  of  south.  From  this  cove  a  trail  lea<ls  two 
or  three  tniles  to  a  large  Indian  salmon  fishery,  at  the  mouth  of  Salmon  KLver, 
where  tiie  shore  changes  from  rocky  blulf  to  sandy  beacii  westward. 

Just  inside  the  eastern  iioint  of  the  entrance  is  a  small  bight,  with  the  sum- 
mer hal)itations  of  the  natives  on  the  beacih,  and  a  small  stream  emptying 
hrougli  it.  Lii  Perous'L>,  losing  the  wind  after  entering,  and  having  a  strong  ebb 
current,  anchored  otf  this  bight,  and  found  six  fathoms,  over  sandy  bottom,  where 
the  entrance  bore  south-southeast.  It  is  prudent  to  enter  only  near  slack-water, 
low  tide,  with  a  sailing  vessel ;  or  slack-water  at  either  tide  with  steamer.  An- 
chorage may  iilso  be  had  under  the  western  shore,  a  mile  and  a  half  directly  north 
from  the  entrance,  and  where  the  bay  begins  to  expand,  with  dei>th  of  \\  .ter 
fifti'cn  fathoms,  over  muddy  bottom,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  shore,  witli  an  Iii'lian 
house  at  the  mouth  of  a  stream  Iteariiig  west-southwest. 

La  Perouse  says  that  at  full  and  change  it  is  high  water  at  17/.  OOw.,  and  the 
tide  at  (U-notaph  Island  rises  seven  and  a  half  feet. 

The  geographical  position  of  the  Oorinorant  IJock,  reduced  from  D'Agclet's 
position  on  Cenotaph  Island,  is  latitude  58°  30'  [J(>",  longitude,  by  Lii»inski  l.'57° 
1(5';  that  by  D'Agelct  was  lVu°  27'.  The  magnetic  variation  in  178()  was  liS° 
east;  and  Lipiiiski  made  it  1'.")°  east  in  ISlMi. 

In  Shiltz's  report  to  IJaranotf,  (.July  170(i,)  he  says:  "The  entrance  to  Lituya 
Uaj*  is  most  dangerous;  tlie  strong  currents,  rushing  over  hidden  rocks,  occasion 
rapids  which  almost  entirely  coiu^eal  the  channel,  and  thus  add  to  the  danger.  In 
fair  weather  my  vessel  was  being  towed  in,  when  the  water  before  me  ai)peared 
one  and  a  half  fathoms  higher  than  in  the  bay,  and  wo  shot  the  descent  with 
irresistil)l('  speed  and  great  danger.  Once  inside,  all  immediate  danger  ceased. 
The  bay  is  large  and  lilU'd  with  rocks  and  sands;  no  wood  at  the  immediate 
entrance,  and  no  i)osition  tit  for  a  settlement.  The  bay  is  destitute  of  fish,  except 
lialii)nl,  which  abound  only  in  spring  and  summer.  In  the  winter  the  bay 
abounds  in  sea  lidus,  (i>hoca  jiib<ita,J  but  the  common  seal  (i>hom  ritidiiiaj  is  v«'ry 
seldom  seen."' 


ALASKA  COAST  PI  LOT. 


i:v,] 


Other  navigators  j)roii<)nii('c  the  cntnuico  (laiijLjoroiis.  Tho  shores  a  sliort 
Oistaiioe.  iiisi»U^  tlie  entrance  are  described  as  ''eoinposcd  t>f  cnornions  clitl's  t'i;;ht 
and  nine  hnndred  feet  high,  overhan}j;ing  f;itliondess  waters ;  the  fjlacicr  ice,  forced 
from  tho  nionntain  pn-jics,  covers  the  surface  of  the  water  all  the  year  ronnd.  No 
sound  but  the  fall  of  >'reat  masses  of  ice  disturbs  the  silence  of  this  terribly  };rand 
but  {gloomy  j,'orge." 

There  is  no  doubt  of  Mio  entrance  being  dangcnms  at  certain  stages  of  the 
tide;  but  the  fact  of  La  P'irouse's  boats  examining  the  imssage  for  two  hours;  of 
the  Indians  constantly  eidering  and  leaving  it,  "whole  villages  at  e\ery  tide," 
prove  that  it  may  be  entered  with  safety;  and  even  when  two  of  La  IVrousc's 
boats  were  lost,  the  jolly-boat  pi.^'.sed  through  the  breakers  stern  first  without 
damage.  With  a  sailing  vessel  the  gn  at  trouble  arises  from  the  calms  that  ])rcvail 
inside.    La  Perouse  was  five  days  moving  his  vessel  a  couple  of  miles. 

For  about  a  mile  and  a  half  inside  the  entrance  the  width  is  only  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile,  when  it  expands  by  the  retreat  of  the  eastern  shore  to  a  mile 
and  a.  half  in  T^idth,  and  Cenotaph  Inland*  lies  neaily  in  the  middle,  about  two 
and  three-quarter  miles  from  the  entraiu'c ,  This  island,  covered  with  wood, 
lies  northwest  half  west  and  southeast  haL'  east,  three-quarters  of  a  mile  long 
and  over  a  quarter  broad.  There  is  a  hill  rt  each  eiul ;  rocky  sh<'-.>  to  the  east 
and  low  at  the  west,  with  a  slightly  curved  bight  on  the  southwest  face,  which  is 
rocky,  but  bordered  by  sand  beach.  Tin:  west  end  is  out  three-eighths  of  a  mili^ 
from  the  west  shore  of  the  bay,  '..ith  thirty-five  fathoms  wat<r.  La  Perouse 
an<'hored  in  thirteen  fathoms,  nuuldy  bottom,  witli  the  middle  of  the  island  bearing 
southeast. 

La  Perouse  reports :  The  forests  along  the  coast  for  seven  or  eight  miles  to 
the  eastward  abound  in  great  spruce  trees  that  measured  six  feet  in  diameter, 
and  vc'.v  esUmat«'d  upwards  of  oiu'  hundred  and  forty  feet  high. 

The  sides  of  the  harbor  are  formed  by  secondary  mountains,  of  great  height, 
(tivo  thousand  one  hundi-ed  to  five  thousand  sin  en  hundred  feet,)  and  coxcred 
with  pines,  carjieted  with  verdure,  and  n  .ely  capped  with  snow;  several  six-cies 
of  grass;  woods  full  of  blackberries,  ras]»berries,  strawberries,  «S:c.  Vegetation  for 
three  or  four  numths  is  very  vigcu'ous.  Hivers  alutuud  in  salmon  and  trout,  but  in 
the  bay  they  caught  nothing  but  halibut,  sonw  over  one  hundred  pounds;  muscles 
in  heaps.    Bears,  martens,  and  squirrels  in  the  nn)untains. 

lie  says  the  iron  daggers  of  the  natives  were  "as  soft  and  easy  to  cut  as 
lead,"  and  that  they  knew  how  to  forg(^  iron,  fashion  co])per,  i*v:c.,  altlixngh  lu^ 
cannot  admit  they  are  acipiainted  with  the  method  of  reducing  iron  from  the  ore. 

Two  great  glaciers  en*^<r  (ho  ends  of  the  easterr.  and  western  arms,  and  two 
smaller  ones  conu'  from  the  uoAh  face  nearly  ojtjMtsite  the  main  bay.  and  he 
doubts  whether  the  profound  valleys  of  the  Alps  and  I'yrenees  exhii)it  a  piiture 
equally  terrific,  ami  at  tho  same  time  so  iticturesf|m\ 


*  NiOiU'il  in  1780  liy  La  IVrouw,  wlio  i'i'('i.'ti'il  si  iiioiiiiini'iif  tlii'irnii  lo  i'iiiiiiiM'ni<ir;iti'  llic  Iuks  of 
IiIh  iiit'ii. 


134 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


IIo  np])li(Ml  the  namo  Port  «lc.s  Finii(;iiiH  to  this  bay.  Lituya  is  the  native 
iianic,  accmdiiiiJf  to  Tchciikoir,  and  by  tliis  it  is  known  on  tho  coast.  Anotlior 
Knssian  cliait  calls  it  Alitnya,  but  La  Peroiise  says  the  natives  call  it  Skecter. 
The  Uussian  Coni))any  liad  their  vessels  many  times  in  this  bay  before  La  Perouse, 
an<l  (M)nteiiipliited  establishing  a  post  here,  until  Khromteheuko  and  Lipitiski 
reported  adversely. 

The  great  snow  peak  of  Mount  i'riUon*  is  placed  abont  seventeen  miles  east- 
northeast  from  the  entrance  of  Jjitnyiv  Hay,  but  Tebenkott"  places  it  only  twelve 
nules  oast  by  north  from  tin;  entrance,  and  oidy  five  miles  north  of  the  west  arm. 
No  height  has  been  assigned  to  it,  but  it  is  visible,  with  Fairweather,  oft'  Capo 
Edgecund)e,  and  ap])ears  at  that  distance  slightly  higher,  so  that  it  nuist  be 
nearly  of  the  same  elevation  as  Mount  Fairweather.  La  Perouse  says  it  would  be 
easy  to  mistake  Monnt  Crillon  for  Mount  Fairweather,  but  the  latter  appears,  from 
every  jxtint  of  view,  accompanied  by  two  less  lofty  mountiiins,  while  the  former  is 
more  isolated,  and  the  summit  inclines  to  the  south. 

Lii»inski  places  3Iount  Crillon  (Lituya  Peak  of  the  natives)  in  latitude  ~>^°  ;$8 .5, 
longitude  L'57o  11 '.."»,  and  only  eight  miles  from  the  coast.  Abcmt  two  or  three 
miles  north-northwest  of  Lituya  l>ay  is  the  mouth  of  a  stream  with  a  lagoon  at  its 
mouth,  and  having  its  head  in  a  mountain  lake,  to  which  the  salmon  ascend  in 
great  numbers  at  the  i)roi)er  season.  A  large  Indian  fishery  was  formerly  estab- 
lished here,  and  a  road  leads  along  the  rocky  coast  to  Lituya  Bay. 

CAl'E   FAlUWKATnER. 

From  Lituya  iJay  to  this  cape  the  distance  is  twenty-two  miles  northwest;  the 
immediate  shores  low  and  sandy,  with  a  live-mile  margin  of  low  ground  covered 
with  trees,  running  a  few  miles  to  the  foot  of  the  snow  range  of  Mount  F'air- 
weather,  and  only  broken  by  the  lUver  Katagini,  nine  miles  from  Lituya. 

It  is  situated  in  latitude  'tS^  5(>'.2  and  longitude  l.'i7°  -kH',  according  to 
Ijipinski.  Vancouver  says:  "This  cape  cannot  be  considered  a  very  conspicuous 
l)roinontory;  it  is  nu)st  distinguishable  when  seen  from  the  southward,  as  the  land 
to  the  west  of  it  retires  a  few  miles  ba;,'k  to  the  northward,  and  there  forms  a  bend 
in  the  coast;  it  is  the  nmst  consi)icuous  point  we  noticed  cas<  vard  of  Cape  Pliipps. 
It  is  terminated  by  a  low  blulf  clitF  on  a  sandy  beach,  near  which  are  a  few 
detached  rocks." 

Seven  miles  Avest-soutliwest  from  the  cni)p,  and  with  IMount  Fairweather 
nearly  in  line  over  it.  La  Perouse  obtained  soundings  in  forty-three  fathoms,  and 
thence  ten  miles  southeast  by  south  half  south,  nearly  parallel  with  the  coast,  he 
regularly  increased  his  soundings  to  sixty-live  fathoms.  Twenty-nine  miles  west 
of  Cape  Fairweather,  and  twenty  miles  broad  olf  the  nearest  coast,  he  places 
soundings  in  seventy-three  fathoms. 

Tebenkoff  designates  this  headland  as  Cape  Litnya. 

A  small  stream  enters  the  sea  about  a  mile  east  of  the  extremity  of  the  cape. 


•  Named  by  La  Pdrouso  iu  1786. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


i;;.") 


MOUNT  rAiRAAn:ATiii;n. 

The  inagnificcnt  ]>oak  of  ^Moiiiit  rairwoathcr*  lifliiij;:  its  otoriially  snow- 
covfi't'd  Iicad  to  an  clt'vation  of  tliirtocu  tlioiisaiiil  nine  liiiiHlicd  and  t'oity-.six  t'cct 
nbovet  tlui ocean,  and  friMincntlj-  visible  at  a  distance,  of  (tne.  Inuidrcd  and  lifly 
miles  at  sea,  lies  in  latitude  58°  57'  and  lon^-itnde.  137°  27',  nine  miles  from  tlio 
uearest  shore,  and  twelve  from  Cape  Fuirweatlu^r. 

The  natives  know  (Jrillon  and  Fairweatlier  as  the  LitAya  Poalc. 

Six  miles  north  of  Cai)e  Fairweatlier  a  small  stream  named  the  Kakhvefjin 
enters  the  ocean.    Tebenkolf  has  a  glacier  marked  upoii  it  one  or  two  miles  inland. 

CAPE  FAIRWEATIIER  TO  CAPE  PHIPPS. 

The  general  direction  of  the  coast  from  Fairweatlier  to  riiipiis,  tlu'  south 
]>oint  of  the  entrance  to  IJehring  or  Yakntat  bay,  is  iiortli  01''^  west,  and  the  dis- 
tance seventy-one  miles.  The  shore  leaves  this  general  direction  as  much  as 
seven  miles,  about  ten  miles  north  of  Fairweatlier  Cape,  where  is  the  eastern 
boundary  of  Dry  Bay. 

Tebeiikotf  describes  this  sketch  of  coast  from  the  details  of  the  head  men  of 
the  ]>arties  sent  to  hunt  the  sea-otter,  and  says  the  shore  is  ii  "narrow  strip  of 
land,  low,  level,  and  covered  with  wood.  Its  brea<lth  between  the  sea  shore  and 
the  foot  of  the  mountains  is  five  to  seven  miles,  and  many  livers  and  streams 
enter  the  narrow  plain  in  ditVerent  <lire(!tioiis,  and  serve  as  so  many  canals  for  the 
purpose  of  inland  navigation  ;  but  all  the  rivers  are  small  and  shallow." 


DRV  BAY   AND  AI.SEKII  RIVEB. 

About  eleven  miles  north  by  west  qriarter  west  from  ('ape  Fairweatlier  is  the 
eastern  point  of  this  bay,  of  which  very  little  is  known.  The  western  point  lies 
twelve  miles  west  northwest  from  the  eastern,  and  close  under  each  Hows  one 
of  the  mouths  of  the  Alsekh. 

Tebenkolf  says:  The  most  important  of  the  streams  on  this  jiait  of  the 
coast  is  the  river  Alsekh,  which  at  twelve  oi  lifteeii  miles  from  the  shore  is  divided 
into  iive  branches,  which  tlow  througl.  such  low  ground  that  the  high  waters  vi  ry 
frequently  cover  a  great  extent  of  it,  and  at  such  times  really  form  a  shallow  bay, 
having  a  width  of  twelve  miles  upon  the  ocean,  and  extending  inland  to  where  the 
Alsekh  divides.  In  the  middle  of  this  Dry  Bay  is  a  rocky  island  two  or  three 
miles  in  extent  and  covered  with  wood. 

La  Peronse  anchored  six  or  seven  miles  off  the  western  point  of  this  bay  in 
thirty  fathoms,  muddy  bottom,  when  the  ''entrance  to  the  river  bore  north  17° 
east,  and  Capo  Fairweatlier  south  5°  east."'  If  these  bearing^  are  assumed  mag- 
netic, they  will  plot  very  well.     lie  found  the  water  change  to  a  whitish  color  and 

*NiUii(><l  liy  Cook  ill  1778. 

t  Caiitiiiii  Viisilicll",  of  tlip  Olkritic  (Discovery,)  (letfi'iuiiHMl  tliis  nltitiiilc.  Ti'luMikolV  lias  in,sri4 
fft't ;  Admiralty  chart  has  1J,7(I8. 


IIJG 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


iiliiKist  fn'sli  iit  tliivc  to  lour  Icatiiics  from  tlio  nioiitli  of  tlio  rivor.  His  boats  s]K'nt 
live  or  six  hours  search  in;,'  for  an  {■iitraiicf  a?i(l  I'oiiiul  two  moderately  hivav  elian- 
iicls,  Imt  each  had  a  l)ar  on  which  tlie  sea  broke  so  violently  tiiat  the  boats  could 
not  ai>iiroa<h  it.  From  tlie  ship  perceived  the  water  very  smooth  inside  the  bur, 
and  a  basin  several  lca;;ues  wide  and  two  leagues  (h'cp.  On  liis  chart  he  jdaces 
two  islands  alon;;'  the  mouth  of  the  bay  in  line  with  the  coast  eastward  and  west- 
ward, and  the  two  probable  entrances  at  the  east  and  west  extremes  of  the  island. 
>'ine  miles  south  of  the,  west  point  of  the  bay  he  ;?ot  soundings  in  forty-flvo 
fathoms.  When  otf  this  bay,  Vancouver  says,  "the  nearest  shore,  distant  seven 
miles,  was  near  a  narrow,  shallow  ojM'iiing  into  a  higoon ;"  but  he  says  no  siu-h  bay 
or  island  as  (Jook  describes  exists  in  this  neighborhood. 

La  I'erouso  named  this  Uehring's  Itiver. 

On  some  llussian  maps,  the  Alsekh  is  made  to  break  through  the  Mount  St. 
I'ilias  or  Yakutat  range, and  ("ook  mentions  "this  chain  of  mountains  being  inter- 
rupted by  a  plain  of  a  few  leagues  extent,  beyond  which  the  sight  was  unlimited, 
so  that  there  is  either  a  level  country  or  much  water  l)ehind  it ;"  and  again  refers 
to  it  when  describing  ISloiuit  St.  Elias  as  "belonging  to  a  ridge  of  exceedingly 
high  mountains  that  nniy  be  reckoned  a  continuation  of  the  Fairweather  range,  as 
they  an^  only  divi(h'd  by  the  i)hun  above  mentioned."  From  Cook's  position 
(about  latitude  5iP  01',  hmgitude  I.'liP  lit',)  when  he  saw  this  break,  it  would  lie  up 
the  valley  of  the  Alsekh.  When  Vancouver  was  seven  miles  west  by  south  of  tho 
entrance  to  Shallow  Bay,  he  suy.s  this  interruption  in  the  snnmut  of  these  very  ele- 
vated mountains  was  conspicuous,  and  looked  like  a  i)lain  eomi)oscd  of  a  solid 
nniss  of  ice  inclining  gradually  towards  the  low  border;  its  surface  was  clean, 
smooth,  and  uniform  in  this  depressed  i)art  of  the  mountains. 

Qlnrtyeight  miles  northwest  by  west  from  Cape  Fairweather  is  the  o]»ening 
of  two  streams  by  one  mouth  in  about  latitude  r/jo  14'  and  longitmle  l.'$8o  45'. 
Each  stream  has  a  vdlage  upon  it  from  six  to  twelve  miles  from  their  juiu-tion,  and 
the  lind>ered  land  comes  close  to  the  ocean  shon^  between  them.  AVestward  of 
these  rivers  the  low  country  stretches  twelve  or  fifteen  miles  into  the  base  of  the 
mountains,  and  is  filled  with  lagoons  and  marsh  in  a  measure  destitute  of  timber, 
but  part  of  the  shore  has  a  l)elt  near  its  margin.  Just  west  of  the  mouth  of  these 
rivers,  Cook,  by  his  bearings,  jjlaces  IJehring  Bay;  and  Meares  anchored  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  in  twenty-seven  fathoms  water  and  named  it  Tianua  lloads. 
Here  the  Indians  came  in  canoes  from  the  shore. 

From  the  mast-head  Vancouver  saw  lagoons  over  the  low  beach  of  this  coast, 
and  cor.nnunicating  with  the  ocean  through  breaks  in  the  beach,  across  which  the 
surf  bro\e  with  nuu'h  violence. 

The  range  of  mountains  forming  a  snow-clad  barrier  behind  the  coast  hence  to 
Prince  William  Sound,  is  saitl  by  Tebenkoff  to  attain  a  general  elevation  of  eight 
or  nine  thousand  feet,  and  from  all  their  gorges  great  glaciers  force  their  irresist- 
ible way  upon  the  low  land. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


i:;' 


nRnnimt  bay,  or  yaki'tat. 


Ciipc  IMiii)i)s.  ill  liitiliidi'  ."ilP  ;{;!'.(),  InnMiimlc  l;',!P  IL".  luims  llif  sdiitlimst 
poiiitof  thf  ciitnincc  to  lliis  hiiv,  l)iit  it  slmiild  lie  liorrii-  in  iiiiiid  lli;il  this  oiiicr 
Clllii'  is  cill'.i'il  oil  tlic  I'lissiiill  limps  tiic  OccMIl  (';lp(',  illld  tli;ll  tiirv  drsii;l|iilc  (lie 
point  tlircc  mill's  nortli\Mii'd  iil'  it  as  Cape  I'liipps.  'I'lic  noilliwrsl  poinl  nl'  tic 
l>ay  is  Cape  Maiiliy,  ill  latitude  ."iiP  l.l',  lon;;itinlo  I  Kt^  (Hi',  and  licais  iioitli  IV 
west  t'idiii  CaiH'  I'liii>ps,  distant  cij^iilccii  milrs. 

l''i()in  ("ape  i'liipjis,  .Mount  St.  I-^Iias  hears  north  .">P  .'JO'  west,  distant  sixty- 
two  mill's. 

Vancouver  says  lliat  "ofl'  Point  Maiihy  the  water  was  t'oniid  to  lie  diseoloicd 
at  the  distance  of  tour  miles  IVoiii  shore,  w  here  no  hot  Ion  i  could  lie  lound  w  ith  I  he 
liand  lead."  'I'wo  miles  ninth  of  ('ai»e  Maiilty,  on  its  western  side,  a  stream  enters 
the  sea,  with  a  shoal  some  distance  oil'  its  moiilii.  I'iiy;et  says,  (\'ancon\er,  III,  p. 
L'.'i",)  ''The  danj;ers  in  Iteliriii;^:  May,  parlicniaiiy  hetween  ('ai»e  Maiihy  and  the 
island  forininj;'  I'ort  Mal^iiave,  are  considered  to  he  niimeroiis,  since  se\eral  locks 


weie  seen  iust  sliowlliK'  tiieii'  heads  ahose 


ter.''     Hill    there   is  no  iloiihl    thai  he 


mistook  for  rocks  lh)atiii;>' masses  of  ice  coveri'd  wilh  dirt,  such  as  he  afterwards 
loiind  in  Icy  Strait,  'rehenkolf  does  not  refer  to  any  such  dandier,  ami  il  is  ipiile 
j)rohahIe  that  i'u;;('t  mistook  for  rocks  delaehed  and  lioatiu^i' masses  of  ice,  coM'ied 
with  earth  or  stones,  siicli  as  he  suhseipiently  mel  wilh  in  Icy  Strait. 

l)oii;;las  says,  (Meares,  i>. ,)_'(),)"  at  the  entrance  to  this  hay  we  had  fifteen, 
tell,  and  eleven  fathoms  water,  over  a  rocky  hottom,  hut  hijuher  uj)  no  soiindiii;;s 
could  he  ohtained  with  lifly  fathoms  of  line."  Hut  he  jjives  !!o  distances,  hearings, 
or  sketch  t:'  indicate  his  position;  he  merely  entered  aloiij;'  the  eastern  low  shores. 

A  Iviissian  sketch  of  Port  MiiljJtravo  has  soiindiiiju's  of  live  and  seven  fatlioms 
half  a  mile  ojV  inner  ('ajM*  I'hipps,  and  rocks  close  under  the  pitiiit. 

,\.  spur  fiom  the  t'oast  >.[:  niitaiii  ranice  {'omcs  towards  <  )cean  ('ajie  parallel 
aii^l  close  to  the  soiitheastorn  slim  ■  of  the  ha\';  its  southern  cNlreiiiity  reaches 
"within  two  or  three  miles  of  the  coast,  Viherc  the  low  shore  i  ■  cut  li\  a  connected 
si'ries  of  lagoons  and  streams,  lead'nj;'  ten  miles  eastsonlhi'ast  from  Port  JNIiil- 
grave. 

Cape  Pliipps  ami  the  Ocean  i'ape  a'ci  re]nc.-.cnted  as  low  and  sandy  and 
wooded  il  short  distance  hack,  hilt  the  whole  ])oiiit  or  peninsula  is  an  iiiliicacy  of 
crooked  channels,  with  from  one  to  ioiir  fathoms  of  water  in  them.  I'or  li\e 
miles  inside  the  point  the  shores  are  low,  cut  up  hy  lagoons,  covered  with  wood, 
and  in  many  places  the  shores  are  (covered  with  water  in  the  I'aiiiy  season. 

TebiMikolV says  that  Cape  Maiihy  or  (Ireat  Cape  is  high,  and  at  some  places 
steep  and  rocky :  in  his  chart  he  represents  it  as  low  and  not  wooded  dose  to 
shore.  Vaiicoiucr  says  the  shore  west  of  it  is  a  low,  comiiaci  holder  of  plain  land, 
which  towards  Point  Manhy  gradually  appeared  more  verdani  and  Jcitile,  and  to 
the  eastward  of  it  the  country  was  again  well  wooded. 
18 


w 


i:]8 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


I.ii  I'croiisc  iiiK'liorcil  tlircc  lc;i;;iirs  soul  Invest  (il'tliis  *' Wdodcil  point.  (Miiiihy.) 
wliicli  hi' Ml  tiist  liclifviil  to  Im-  ill!  isl;iii(I,"  lint  '■siil)sc<|iii'ii(ly  I'oiiiitl  to  lit- joiiu'd 
io  tlir  iniiiii  1)\  iitlici  Innil  still  lliitlcr  iind  witlMiiit  trees." 

The  ;.!cneii:l  direelion  of  the  liii\  is  north  .'IP  rust  lor  twenty-fonr  miles,  diniin- 
ishin;^  lidni  ei]L;lileen  to  two  miles  in  width,  I'onr  miles  iVom  the  entrnnce  to  l>i;j;K(''* 
S(Hind  iit  the  hend,  whieh  Tel>enkoll' sii\ s  receives  *m  snndl  sireiiin  coininj^'  from 
between  enormons  masses  of  ice;  the  monlii  of  this  stream  is  in  latil'ide  ."liP  ."il', 
loiij;itude  l.'UP  L'.">'.  Here  Malespina,  lieinf,'  disappointed  in  lindin;;-  tne  northwest 
passa},'e,  called  the  harlxn'  'Assnranee  hay,' ami  its  entrance  Ferrero,  (.Maldonailo's 
Christian  mune.")  Vaneonver  has  deserihed  the  hay,  and  says  the  pro^^ress  of 
I'n.uet  was  harri'd  at  the  eiilranee  to  l)i,u};-es  Sound  by  a  solid  harrier  of  iee.  1"lie 
Itnssian  chart  represents  its  shores  as  masses  of  ice,  and  named  it  I  >iseneliantment 
liay.  Inil  places  an  anchoraji'c  in  its  sontheasf  part. 

Teltenkoll's  chart  represents  the  north  shoic  as  low  and  sainly  and  covered 
with  wood  to  the  base  of  the  nninnlains,  from  which  Hows  a  stream  eiirityiu;;'  into 
the  iia\  lifteen  miles  nertli  by  east  frinn  Cape  I'hipiis,  and  liaviii-- an  extensive 
saiid  bar  at  ilsnioulli.  In  his  hydroi;raphic  notes  he  says  the  siiores  i  1'  VaUiltat 
are  nnnintaimHrs,  woody,  and  in  many  places  cut  by  glaciers;  Init  the  climate  is 
better  than  that  of  I'rince  William  Sound. 

The  sonthciist  shores  are  broken   and   frin^icd   by  nnnnrons  w led   islands 

Willi  low  shores,  and  forming;' a  H'reat  immber  of  small  bays  and  aiichorajies  with 
very  ihicp  water  in  most  of  theiii.  The  entrances  to  these  anch(naj;es  have  stioiifjr 
cnri'cnts  and  arc  ri'prcsented  by  tlic  Unssians  as  dillicnlt  of  access  for  sailinj-'  ves- 
sels. 

Inside  of  Cape  Pliip]»s  of  the  Ifussiaiis,  and  three  miles  south  half  east,  is  a 
low  wiiiMleii  )ioiiit  called  Point  Tinner,*  with  \cry  <lee|i  water  tjuite  close  to  it,  and 
a  reef  of  rocks  jiarallel  to  it  runninji'  alou;;'  its  eastern  face  a  little  more  than  a 
(piarterofa  mile  distant.  Iletwceii  this  reef  and  llie  Ion;;' point  the  depth  of  water 
\aries  IVom  twenty  to  ten  Intlioms,  and  the  anchora;;!'  is  well  up  the  shore  of  the 
|i()inl  to  a\(ii(l  the  \  eiy  sirou!;  eiirrenls  that  rush  past  it. 

P.elclier  makes  the  followin;;' remarks  in  appioachin.u'  i'ort  Alnl^ravc:  ''Hauled 
up  and  broiifiht  Mount  Fairweather  over  Ca[)e  Turner,  which  the  chart  .showed  to 
be  a  uood  leadin;;  mark  (north  SSo  east  compass)  I'or  the  entran(H>.  We  were  <'VOii 
in  doubt  on  opeuin.u'  the  nnaitli  ol'  the  port,  whieh  ajiiiearcd  like  a  cluster  of 
islands.  •  ♦  »  ]!ore  u))  for  the  auchora;ic,  passinj;'  from  .soundiny:s  at  sixty 
fathoms  suddenly  into  thirteen  and  ei,yht.  by  kcejiin.i;'  too  close  to  Ca|)c   Phi|)i)s, 

■^  a,u;ain  to  forty,  until  reachin,n-  the  Icd^coll'Caiie  Turner, 


and  as  suddenly  deepen 

when   it  exceeded  the  leiijith  of  our  hand  lines.     * 


Anchored  clos(>  around 


the  low  .u'ra\('lly  jxiint  ol'  the  island  in  thirteen  fathoms,  within  three  hundred 
yards  of  the  beach."'*  When  he  weighed  aiieiior  lu'  experienced  j^reat  ditlicnlty  in 
fjettinj;'  it  up  on  account  of  the  t(ai{;h  (;lay  in  which  it  had  hooked. 


Niiiiicil  liv  I>i\iiii  ill  l<~7.  iil'tcr  liis  sriniid  ihmIi 


AI,ASKA  COASr   I'lI.OT. 


i:;;! 


This  iiiu'lior  i;;.' iinil  tlic  iidjin'ciil  wiitfis  cniiiiMisc  tlic   I'lUt   Miilur;n<' ol'  \';iii 
couvcr.     Tt'lii'iiktilV  ;;iv('s  n  sketch  ol'  the  isliiiitls  and  rhiiiiiirls,  vVc.     'I'lic  lirplh 
til"  \v;it('r  lii'l wfcii  Ciiiii'  I'liipps  and  ('.\]»'  Turner  ,s  I'ldni  lilty  In  ei;;ht,v  ratlhnns, 
Hinl  tlie  ennenls  nre  said  to  niii  with  avi-M  rapidity. 

When  IJcieher  ielY  this  Itay  lie  was,  during'  the  nijiht.  ilrawn  lowai'ds  Iheshnre 
into  seven  lallidins.  w  itii  liea\y  itreakeis  insnle  him.  lie  snpposes  ilieie  nia.\  lie  an 
olT'shoie  shoal,  Inil  his  explaiiai  ion.  ami  his  I'ailiire  Id  search  lor  it,c!eaily  indiciilu 
that  he  was  nearly  l(»st  on  the  main  shoic 

In  ls();>  I'etnitV  reported  that  the  nsnal  rise  and  fall  of  tide  in  .Inne  and 
Jnly,  at  ('a[ie  Turner,  was  ei;;ht  I'eet ;  lint  in  Octola't'  and  Novenilier  it  reached 
over  sixteen  feet.     He  repin'ts  the  time  of  hi^h  water  at  lull  and  chanj;-e,  I'.'/i.  t.'iw. 

Cape  TnrmT  is  laid  down  in  latitude  ."i'.P  .)■•',  lon^iilude  l.l'.t' .f,")',  ami  Teltcii- 
Ivotr.s  sketch  is  cinnpiled  I'nnn  the  examiimtions  of  I>nli;;in  and  Kromtchenko;  the 
first  of  whom  laid  down  the  anchora;;e  in  Vakntat  Uay  iioilheast  of  Khantak 
Islaml,  and  the  latter  those  on  the  south  side  in  ISL*,!. 

In  IT'.iri  the  Itnssians  had  a  post  nanu'd  New  linssia  on  the  la;;(ion  inside  ('api^ 
I'hipps,  Iml  it  has  heen  aliandoned,  as  also  one  on  the  sleep  clill'  east  of  llu- 
anchora;;(^  under  t'ajic  'I'nrm'r. 

Cook  did  not  see  or  enter  this  liay,  Imt  he  applied  the  name  Itehiini;'  Hay  to 
the  harlior  he  supposed  jlehriu}:  anchoriil  in  when  he  first  made  the  t'oast.  I,a 
I'c'iouse  declared  no  such  harlpiU'  i'\isted,  and  yet  liy  ploltiii;^-  his  course  and  coast, 
line  westward  from  Liti'iNa  Hay,  his  IJaie  de  .Monte  falls  exactly  upon  IJehrin^ 
Bay.  It  was  entered  and  examined  liy  Dixoii,  and  named  Atlmiralty  Hay;  after- 
wards Meares  was  in  the  t'litrauce;  i'li^^ct  examined  the  hay  tlioroiij;iily,  and  \'an- 
eouver  named  it  Jjehrin,::;'  l»ay,  as  liein,;;'  what  Cook  intended.  liy  (he  llussians 
it  is  known  as  Vakiitat  Hay.  It  is  (Inildless  the  hay  in  wliicli  Hehiin^-  lirst 
anchored  when  he  discovered  this  part  of  the  coast  in  1711. 

The  Indians  inhahiliiiji'  the  coast  itetweeii  Yakiitat  and  Tihu.i;at/  I'ays  are 
Utjaleimi' ;  they  are  not  nnmeroiis;  reckon  alioiit  thirleeii  hiindied  souls;  have, 
their  own  lauyniajie ;  li\e  alonj;' the  risers  and  subsist  on  lish  and  piodncts  of  the 
eha.se. 

KNIOIIT'B  IHLANU, 


The  southern  point  of  this  island,  wliich  lies  in  the  northern  and  eastern 
part  of  Heliring  Hay,  is  twenty-one  miles  east  of  point  Mauley  and  Ihirlecii  miles 
northwest  (»ne-third  north  IVoni  the  inner  Cajie  I'liipits.  Half-way  between  it 
and  tlu!  north  end  of  the  KhantHnk  (l)isli)  Island  lies  an  islet  iianu'd  Kriistoi  or 
Steep  Lslaiid.  Knight's  Island  is  alioiii  two  miles  lony,  .southeast  half  east 
and  iMU'thwest  half  west,  and  about  a  mile  broad.  It  lii'S  aliont  half  a  mile 
o If  the  eastern  slujre,  and  admits  of  a  navi;;able 'i.iss.ige  all  round  it;  but  thei-,) 
are  some  ioe!;s  lying  about  a,  mile  from  its  west  iioint,  and  otf  its  northeast  sidi> 
there  is  an  islet  between  it  and  the  main  land.  East  of  the  south  i>oinl  of  tin; 
island  the  main  shore  retreats  and  forms  a  cove  ojieii  tow  aid.-  llie  noil  hw  est  wilii 


140 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


jf(»o(l  iiiiflnir.'i^c,  Imt  no  soini(liiijij:s  <;ivoii.  Tliis  is  tlio  Elcoior  Core  of  I'li^^cl, 
w)i(»  jiliiccd  tlic  simtii  ])oiiit  of  Kiii;j;lir.^  Island  in  latitude  5!P  44'.  Ti'lH-idioff 
l)la('('s  ii  ill  latitude,  u'»a  4.'!',  loiiKitiidi-  i;.i'.P  ijl'. 


CAW';  iMiirr.s  to  oaiu;  suckling. 


Fioiii  Tape  Pliipiis  to  Cajie  Siicklint;-  tlie  eourse  is  north  T.S'^  west,  and  (lie 
ilislaiHc  line  hundred  and  twenty-live  miles,  with  the  eo  ist  eurvins'  northward  of 
this  line  as  ;iiiieh  as  twenty  miles,  esjieeially  at  tlie  entranee  to  ley  Hay.  This 
sti'elcli  of  'Miast  is  a  hiw  fringe  of  lr\'el  plain  lyiii.u'  lietweeii  tin'  ocean  and  the  foot 
of  the  mountain  raiijue  of  ]\Iouut  l-llias.  The  soil  is  sand  and  {gravel  eoveri'd  with 
spha.unnni,  through  wliieh  j;rows  the  s]»riu.'e,  and  from  wiiieh  hi'"^*^  s])rings.  Xo 
wood,  however,  exists  hetwc  mi  Cape  'Vfanhy  and  (.'ape  LMou,  and  \'aneou\'e!' 
descrilies  it  as  ]»reseutiii^'  a  naked  barren  coiin^^ry,  composed  of  ajiparenll.N  loose 
uueonnected  stones;  jiradually  tlie  surface  assumes  a  hrownisii  api'/caiancc  as  if 
from  ve.'^elalion.  The  avera,!4e  widili  of  this  skirtin,:;'  is  only  aiioiit  three  miles; 
where  it  reaches  the  mountains  the  ravines  arc  lilh'd  with  etcviiai  ice,  and  all  the. 
streams  (U'tinii'  (liron^^h  it  arc  small  and  sliallow,  and  come  from  the  j;laciers. 
I''r(iin  the  description  of  this  nioiiidain  laiiiic,  its  a]tpidachcs,  glaciers.  ^:c.,  tliis  1 
border  of  stony  coast  line  may  lie 
fidiii  all  the  ulacicrs. 

The  follow  iny-  is  tlic  description  of  La  I'i'tousc  as  he  ajiproachcd  the  coast  just 


ow 


'.sjdeicd  simply  as  a  .u;rcaf  comliiiicd  iiiorain 


westward  of  I'oint  ALinby.  am 
snou  covered  a  harr<'ii  soil,  imemhc 


1  of  w  hich  he 


'iN'cs  a 


n  c\tendc(l  \  i 


•:m; 


of 


cd  liy  a  siii;;lc  tree.  Tiie  mountains  ap- 
jiearcil  to  lie  at  a  very  little  distance  from  the  sea  which  broke  aj;aiiist  (he  clilVs* 
of  a  table  Ian  1  three  hund.'cd  or  four  hundred  ya;-ds  hi^h.     Thi.;  ))]ain,  blaciv  as  il' 


burned  bv  tire,  was  rotallv  destitute  of  verdiin 


ad\ 


d 


lierceivcd  lictweeii  ii-;  and  thcele\ated  I'lab-au  lo\\  lamls  cov(  red  with  trees,  which 
we  took  for  islamls.  The  talile  land  serves  as  u  base  to  vast  monnfains  a  few 
lea^iiies  within.  Ai)iiroacliin<4'  th(>  coast  he  saw  to  the  eastward  a  low  point  (Capo 
IVIanby)  covi'red  with  trees  wlii<'h  appeared  to  join  tlu>  tabic  land,  and  terminate 
at  a  short  distance  from  a  .se;ond  chain  of  miaintains."' 

The  depth  of  water  clo.se  along  the  shore  i.s  generally  from  five  to  twelve 
I'alhoms  a!  iwo  cables' length,  and  at  two  miles  is  from  thirty  to  forty  fathoms. 
About  twenty-eigli;   miles  ^(>utliwest  of  Cajic  I'hipps.  La  I'l'rouse  obtained  eiglity 


fatl 


lOlllS    0\e 


IIUK 


ld\ 


itti'iii :    liflecn  miles  olV  llie 


■;(,  in  loii-itude  14(1'^   1(1', 


Cook  found  eighty-two  faihoins  of  watei  over  muddy  bottom  ;  aine  miles  oil'  tin- 
coast,  in  longitude  141-  4(r,  \aiieoiivcr  I'ound  thirty  fathoms  of  wati»r;  a  league 
south  of  I'oint  Uiou  he  found  twenty  three  fathoms ;  six  miles  olV  an  aluiipt  elitl', 
in  longitude  14^'^  47',  he  found  .orty  two  fathom.s.  with  deeper  water  to  tin'  west- 

w  in!  and  an  in-sliorc  cildc  ciirreiit  seitiii!;'  Iiis  vessel  in  a  calm  to  the  eastward. 


I'ldiii  liis  |Misitiiiii,  mill  ilisiiiiire  iViiiii  till)  coust  twimty  or  thirty  iiiih's,  it  wiw  iittrrly  imiioHxi- 
I>1''  tin-  liini  111  »r.  llir  lili>;il\il's  nil  111"  sliiil'r  :  iiiiil  hi.-;  si|li.-iiM|ililit  iiliM'i  Viltiim  ill"  si'iill;!;  thr  lllfiM'\  cil- 
ilij^  low  l.iiul  |ii'iivt'ii  it. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT, 


141 


Tlic  coast  (MimMit  is  lo  llic  west  wind,  panillcl  witli  tlic  sliorc.  This  liit'l  lias 
1  t'ci'  noticed  by  all  iiavi^'at(»rs.  Jlclc-licr  states  it  at  one  to  one  miil  a  lialt'  mile 
},ei'  lioiiv  when  eastwanl  of  ("ape  Snclilin;;".  N'anecMncr  expeiii'iieed  an  e\ee|ilion, 
an  in  shore  eddy  current  settin;^  to  the  eastward  when  six  niih  s  oil'  the  hlnlV  point 
lyinj;  forty  miles  east  of  Cape  SneklinjH'.  This  may  have  been  in  part  owinj;'  to  the 
ontlhnv  of  tiie  river  Kalielvh,  off  which  he  then  was. 

I'oity  miles  wcst-noi'thwest  from  Cape  I'hipps  lies  Cape  Sitka;;!,  a  low  project- 
ing point  of  hind  sitnated  in  lalitnde  5iP  17',  accordinji  to  N'smconver,  and  lons^i- 
tnde  ]UP  il',  according'  to  Li])inski.  I'astward  of  this  tla^  shore  is  dcstilul*' of 
vegetation,  and  a  ;;reat  marsh  lies  belwei'n  the  shore  rind  the  foot  ol'  the  nionnt- 
aius.  Westward  of  it  there  is  no  wood  alon^'  the  immediate  shore,  according  to 
TcbcnkolV,  l)nt,  there  is  a  belt  along  the  base  of  the  nearest  monntains. 

This  point  is  Poiiit<.'  de  la  iiimssoU^  of  La  I'eroiise.  Thirteen  miles  northwest 
by  west  (piarter  west  I'rom  Sitkagi,  lies  the  Cape  Itiou  of  Nancoincr,  and  tin-  Low 
(Jape  of  Tebenkolf. 

ICV   BAY. 


From  (]a])e  Phipps  to  Cai)e  IJiou  the  distance  is  lifty-one  miles,  and  the, 
ilircction  north  t!.')0  west;  Cai»e  Kioii,  in  latitude  oiio  rt'.V,  and  longitude  lll"^  IP, 
forms  the  southeast  jioint  of  Icy  Hay,  which  runs  n. 'ally  iioith  for  seven  miles  from 


tli<'  middle  (vf  its  entrani'i 


Vu 


coaver  uescnltes  the   poiiii  as  low,  wi'' 


d. 


,  ilh  a  small  islet  detached  at  a  little  distam 


o  the  Westward  of  it,  and  not  laid 


down  by  TebenkolV,  nor  seen  b\-  Pelchci',  who  says  that  the  point  "mast  have  dis 
s  )lved.  The  base  of  the  point  jiroliably  r*'mains,  but  being  free,  for  s(ane  distance, 
of  the  greater  bergs,  it  ja'csenteil  only  a  low  sanil  or  inndily  sjiil,  with  ragged, 
dirty-colored  ice,  grounded.  " 

The  north   point  is  called  lc,\    (^ape,  and  lies  north 


')'2^  west,  distant  ;  ,'\('n 
mill's  from  Ition,  which  \'ancoiiver  describes  as  a  high,  abrupt,  clitVv  point,  Ibrm- 
iiig  the  west  poii*  of  the  bay,  bounded  by  a  solid  body  of  ice  or  frozen  snow. 

The  eastern  shore  is  low,  and  has  a  large  lake  Itetween  it  and  Cape  Sitkagi. 
\'ancouver  says  that  from  the  "easiern  side  of  this  bay  the  coast  is  form<'<l  of  low, 
or  rather  moderately  elevated  land.  The  western  shore  is  a  c(mipaet  mass  of  iee, 
and   terminates  toward   the  ocean   in   a    high,  abriiiit.  and   shar[>  point.     l)iirher 


savs  the  smal 


iiergs,  or 


soft  nmsses  of  ice  forming  the  elill'v  oiilline  of  t'l 


^^ere  veined   and  variegated   b\  muddy  streaks  like   marble,  and  where  the.i,  had 
been  e\|)osed  to  the  sea  were  excaxated   into  arches,"  &c. 


Inside   the  entrance  of  the   bay  TebenkolV  gives  soundings  in    t\ 


d 


lifteeii   f.illioms   to  tlu^  head,  where   (he   depth   is  IInc   fatlion 


'I'licre  can    lie  M.i 


lieli  would  set  the  whoh'  force  of  the  swc 


11 


ancinirage  la  ic  with  siMdlicrly  winds 
into  it. 

\aiicoiiver  gives  a  view  of  the  western  shores  of  ley  Hay,  with  Mount  St. 
I'llias  in  the  backgi'>nnd.  lielclu  r  says,  "  the  whole  of  this  ba.v.aiid  the  valley 
aliove   it.  was  Ibund   to  be  coniiio:  ^>I  of  (apparenllv)  snovvice,  alioni  thirty  feet  in 


142 


ALASKA  COAHT  PILOT. 


lii'i;;lif  iit  tlio  walci'-clirr,  luid  ]ii<ibiilil,v  based  on  a  low,  iinulily  beach."  TIic, 
soiiiidiM^rs  of  Tebcnkoir  (leinoiistiate  the  cvisteiico  of  tlie  bay;  while  Vancouver 
was  wilhiii  a  lea,i;i!e  of  Cape  Kioii  and  saw  into  tiic  bay. 

It  is  |)ii)hable  (lial  Ihe  -larial  foiinaticn  on  the  bay  may  sonietinn's  fdl  it;  and 
that  the  island  wliieli  \"aneonver  saw  was  a  mass  of  cai'th-eovcred  ice  a.yioniid. 
Tliirteen  miles  southwest  by  west  from  Icy  Cape  Vancouver  found  soundin^-s  in 
thiity  fathoms;  tliree  miles  south  of  Cajio  JJiou  he  found  tweuty-thi'ee  fathnms; 
anil  Iji'lclier  says  thai  eastward  of  Ifion  he  edited  along,  keeping'  within  a  mile, 
and  a  half  of  shoi'c,  carrying  from  ten  to  iiftei'ii  fathoms. 

?I()1/NT   ST.   KLIA.S. 
This  great  snow  peak  lies  in   latitude  (HP  22'.0,  and   longitude  1  HP  o I',  and 


rises  to  an  elcxa 


inn    between  sixteen   thousand   and  .seveuteeu  thousand*  feet 


above  til"  sea,  ami  is  situated  twenty-nim;  miles  from  Icy  Cape,  and  twentythre{5 
miles  from  the  head  of  Icy  Hay,  which  receives  a  stream  from  the  Hanks  of  this 
range.  This  remaikable  pyramid  of  eternal  ice  is  acknowledged  by  all  the  old 
iiax'igators  and  (lisco\-erers  as  a  magniticeiil  spectacle  from  the  sea,  especially 
when  (lit!  whole  coast  range  to  .Moiuds  I'airweather  ami  Crilloii  is  visible.  In 
IS.'.U  it  began  to  emit  volumes  of  smoke  and  vapor  from  a  crater  opened  on  its 
northeast  side,  and  in    1S17,  when   the  eartlupudvc  occurred  at   Sitka,  Mount  St. 


!•: 


las  eji 


cted  ashes  a 


nd  liam 


T 


M're  appears  ti>    .a\('  ln'cn 


icnen 


suoterra- 


nean  disturbance  at  this  ep 


for  .Mould  JJ.iker,  iu  Washington  Territory,  in  lati 


Hide    IS^  1,")',  was  in   a  state  of  eruption,  and   shocks  W(>re  felt  along  the   Aleutian 
Islands.     An  eartlnpiake  was  felt  on  Agonnik,  one  of  ihi^  Shuniagin  group,  ami  iu 


Alaska  reninsnia  I'avlolf  Teak  ejected  ashe: 


anil 


Ih 


The  niouhlain   is  xisiiile  over  a  hundred  and  lifly  miles  at  sea.  ami  has  been 
■tcheil  by  \'aniou\er  and  others. 


t'APF,  TAKTAG. 

This  is  a  low,  rounding  i>oint  of  land,  twenty-three  miles  west  of  Icy  Cape, 
ami  is  the  tirst  point  along  this  low  shore  where  outlying  rocks  have  been  noted. 
Thiee  miles  southwest  of  the  southern  extrenuty  of  the  cape,  Tebenkolf  lays  down 
snidicn  rocks  with  thirty  fne  fathoms  of  water  outside  of  them. 

About  lilteen  or  eighteen  miles  west  by  math  half  north  from  Cape  Lnktag, 
Vam'ouyer  notices  an  ainnpl  (^litl  at  tlio  .seaward  extremity  of  a  range  of  hills 
that  stretch,  as  it  were.  peri)endicu!arly  to  the  direction  of  the  base  of  the  nn)un- 
lains,  iidercepting  the  low  border,  and  terminating  at  th(>  seaside.  J'ive  or  six 
miles  .south  of  this  jioint  he  found  bottom  in  forty-two  fithonis,  with  an  inshore 
eddy  current  carrying  his  vessel  eastward  in  a  oidni. 


* Acrorilinjj  tii  Ti'tii'iiknll' it  is  sixtnn  tliniiHiinil  iiino  limiilii'il  hiiiI  tlilily-ciKlit  I'c  t  liin'i; 
(  rinviiiKli.  Hixti'di  (IioumiuhI  seven  limiilnil  iiinl  til'ly-fiinr  feel  ;  I{iissinii  t'liiiit  of  ISH.  /leviMitiMMi 
taoiisiinil  ei|L;ht  liinuliiil  iiiiil  lil'ly-l'nui-  feet ;  .Viliiiinilty  Cliarl  No.  'Jl*',',  I'lmrleeii  tli  .isiiml  iiinK 
Imcdred  ami  seveiUy  feet  ;  iiiiil  l)'\i{elel  in  I.ii  I'eiimse's  e\|ieililiiiM.  twelvi-  lli(ills:iii'  six  liuiiilreil 
ioiil  seMiUy-lwii  feet,  Imt  the  latter  iilueeil  il  eleven  iir  twi'lve  miles  iu  enm. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


u:] 


Six  or  oiolil  Tiiilcs  woslwiivd  nt'  this  clilV  is  ii  siimll  opcniii,!;  in  tlic  liciicli,  iiidi- 
catiiiji'  tlio  niontli  or  inoutlis  of  tlu'  Kivcr  Kiilickli,  I'loiii  wliicli  llic  discolored 
imiddy  watci'  wns  Ibiiiid  several  miles  dislr.iit.  OIV  tiiis  stream  Telieiikoll'  lias  six- 
teen latlioms,  aliout  a  mile  tlistnnt. 

Sixty-nine  miles  west  from  ley  Cape  is  tlie  soiitliern  extremity  of  an  extensive 
reel',  streteliinii'  six  miles  soutii  of  a  short  s))ace  of  roeky  sliore  line.  It  is  in  lati- 
tude .")',P  .">S',  longitude  1  l.'P  i:!'.  and  ealled  Laida  by  Telienkolf.  \'aiicoM\fr,  wlio 
Avas  close  in  with  the  laud  at  this  place,  notes  a  sand  jKiiul  iyin;;  oil'  two  or  tliice 
miles,  and  says  he  juisseil  it  at  the  distance  of  four  miles  without  <;ainin,i;-  sonnd- 
in,i>s,  with  thirty-live  fathoms  of  line;  it  extenils  in'a  southerly  direction  two 
miles  from  the  low  point  of  land  formin;;'  the  west  point  of  a  hay.  aitparently  \('ry 
slioal,  judjiing-  by  the  quantity  ol'  white,  muddy  water  that  tlowcd  out  of  it.  IJut 
Tebeu!  iff  has  this  shoal  or  rei'f  separated  by  a  narrow  channel  hetweeu  it  and 
the  shoi'c,  without,  however,  givinj;-  any  soundings.  Two  rocky  islets  lie  olf  the 
blntf  ]»oint.  and  towards  the  northeast  part  of  the  reef. 

From  Cai)e  Sm-kliug  this  reef  lies  cast  seventeen  miles,  and  fi;.m  the  south 
])oint  of  the  reel'  making  south  of  Kayes  Island,  it  beais  north  7J- east,  distant 
thirty-six  mik"'.  ISetweeu  it  and  Cajie  Suckling  the  shore  line  ", -.hoots  out  in  small 
])r()jecliug  points,  witli  alternate  low  clilfy,  or  white  samly  beaches,  being  the  fer- 
mination  of  a  liordcr  of  low  woodland  country,  extending  s(uue  distance  within 
until  it  reaches  the  foot  of  the  mountains." 

■  CAI'K  src'Ki.i.NC. 

Between  Kaye  Island  and  the  Laiihi  reef  lies  the  low  point  named  Cape  Suck 
ling-,*  its  eastern  extremity  laid  down   in  latitude  ."i!)'^  .T,)',  and  hmgilude  IIP  11'; 
its  western   ))oint,  within  eight  miles  of  the   northeast   point   of  Kaiali   or    Kaye 
Island,  being  the  point  to  which  \'aneouver  a[)p!icd  the  name. 

Uelehcr  says,  *' in  one  direction  I'riim  the  southward  Cape  Suckling  exhihits 
on  its  lower  profile  the  brow,  nose,  and  lips  of  a  man.  It  i-s  a  low  lock.  stretching 
out  I'lom  a  nuiuutainous  isolated  ridge,  which  terminates  alxuit  three  miles  from  it 
easterly,  where  the  masses  of  ice  pyramids  terminate."  N'aueouxcr  says,  ''the 
highland  of  Ca[>e  Suckling,  when  thirty-nine  miles  si>uth  L'.'P  west,  (compass,)  from 
it,"  Cook  says,  ''  it  is  low,  but  within  it  is  a  toh'ral)ly  high  hill,  which  is  disiointcd 
fi'om  the  mountains  by  low  land,  so  that  at  a  dislance  it  looks  like  an  island." 
1'cbenkotf  lays  the  whole  cajie  low  and  Hat  for  ten  or  twcKf  miles  inland,  uilh 
large  lagoons  northward  of  it,  and  also  a  stream  ealled  the  Little  rgaleiilz,  empt,\ 
ing  nine  miles  eastiiortheast  from  the  eastern  poiid of  the  cai)e.  Olf  the  month 
of  that  stream  lielcher  found  drift  trees  of  large  size,  one  nu'asuring  about  two 
hundred  feet  in  length.  The  water  was  whitish  for  three  miles  olf  shore,  with  the 
lilio  of  .separati(ni  from  the  salt  water  distinctly  marked. 

Some  distance  off  sliore  and  to  the  ea.stward  lie  found  the  cnrrotit  selling  a 


l!v  C.iulv.  1:7^^. 


144 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


iiiilt'  to  ii  mile  mill  n  liiilf  per  lioiu'  tit  tlu-  west,  no  diil't  trees  then  noticed,  iuid  yet 
the  wliite  Wiitcr  Wiis  tlicii  two  miles  outside  liis  position. 

The  south  t'iiee  of  ( 'ii)ie  SiieUlin;^' is  nearly  east  and  west  for  li\e  Mii1(>s,  and 
fi'oiii  its  eastern  limit  comnu'nces  that  lon^i'  reach  of  low,  sandy  beach,  from  li\e 
to  ten  miles  in  width,  which  runs  lu'uce  hordcrin;;'  tli»^  <'oast  to  Jlinehiiibrook 
Island,  a  distance  of  seventy-li\e  miles.  This  extensive  sandy  Hat  is  cut  throuH'li 
liy  numerous  streams  llndin^'  their  way  from  the  hiw  shores  to  iheocean.  .Vt  the 
distance  of  one  or  two  niil<.'s  from  its  outer  ed^i'e  tlie  depth  of  water  is  not  more 
than  live  to  ten  fathoms.  Small  streams  fed  by  lakes  and  by  rivulets  from  the 
jilaciers  abound  alon;^  the  shoics  ;  and  one  lar;n'e  stream,  the  Atna  or  t.'o]  j)(>r  lliver, 
finds  its  outlets  between  Kayak  and  liincdiinbrook  Islands.  Olf  the  cajie,  Don;;- 
las  says  he  had  ten  to  twenty  fathoms  over  a  clayey  l)ottom.  Cape  Sacklinj;  was 
named  by  Cook  :  the  IJussians  call  it  Cape-  Sinu'on. 

KAYK,   Ol!    KAVAIC   ISF.AM). 


The  soulliern  I  "1  of  tlusishind  lies  ill  latitude  .VP  I'.l',  lon.t;itu<le  IW^  'h',', 
with  an  island  and  reef  slictchiiii;- thi'ce  miles  scmUIi  of  it.  It  iscalledCape  Ilamond 
bv  N'anioiiver,  and  St.  I'.lias  bv 'I'ebeiikotV.  l>elclier  savs  Kayes  Ksland,  as  seen  from 


le  east,  aii]iears  as  two  islands.     Tl 


outherii  ])oint    is  a   l>';;h   table   rock,  free 


from  trees  or  veu'elation,  and  of  a  whitisii  hue:  the  otiier  is  luoderatelv  h 


land 


11 


lis  re;i'ioii,  with  three  bare   peaks,  its  lower  rej;ion  lieiii.u'  well  wooded.     Cook 


says  the  smilli  point  is  very  remarUi 


le,  beiiitia  naked  vi 


•levat 


ed  considerablv 


above  the  land  north  of  it.  There  is  also  an  elevated  lock  lyin;;-  olV  it,  wliicli 
from  some  points  of  \iew  appears  like  a  ruined  tower.  X'ancouvei'  calls  the  .south 
point  a  "  \('ry  conspicuous  cai>e,"  which  he  named  Cajie  Ilamond  and  placed  in 
latitude  ."ilio  IS.y.     Tebeiikolf  calls  it  Cape  St.  lllias.     l)oiij;las  j;ives  a  viewoftlu^ 


and. 


til  this  Iiij;h  southern  point,  and  the  rock,  which  he  uaiiied  Slapli'   A'oc/.-, 


l»earin;i'  southwest  by  south  ten  miles  ilistant. 

Tebenkoir  jiives  two  views  of  the  island:  one    with    the    south    peak    of  tin 


islaml  bearim:' north  "S'j   east,  twehi 


mil 


es   distant 


iiid    th 


island  bears  frcmi  north  "1°  west  to  north  S°  east,  no  distai 


ice 


e    other    when' 
■stated.     Co 


;1\('S 


three  views  of  it:  one  witli  tlie  south  jioint  bearing;  west  smitliwest  eif;lit  or  nine 
leagues  di>t.int,  with  the  Steei>le  Kock;  t!ic  island  beajinj;'  from  TO  west  by  west 
to  intrthwest  quarter  west,  distant  from  nearest  part  three,  and  one  half  Icajiiies; 
the  third  with  Steeple  IJix-k  be;M'iii,:^  north  two  miles  and  sliowiiiii'  iiinnaclc  one- 
third  the  heijiht  of  the  main  rock,  on  the  west  side. 

N'aiicoiiver  describes  the  north  shori'  of  the  island  as  a  low  tract  of  land,  well 
wooded,  and  that  it  is  indented  b,\  small  coves,  with  a  channel  between  it  ami  tho 
saml\  Hals  of  ( 'ontroilei's  liav. 


T 


le  west  side  is  ilea 


uiv  straijiht.  and  runs  northward  twelve  miles.     The  east- 


ern face  of  the  island  runs  from  the  south  ]ioiiit,  where  it    is   \cry   nai'row,  to   the 
mu'tliward  ;  and  in  latitude  T\\\^  ;!,S',  where  it  is  three  miles   wide,  runs  eastnorlh 
east  tor  six  miles.     Olf  this  east»>ni  extremity,  named  .Mesmier  i'oiut,  lies  a  rocky 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


145 


reef  and  two  small  isle>';9  atretching  two  or  three  miles  to  tlu>  broad  sandy  lieacU 
west  of  Cape  Sncklingj  but  between  the  islets  and  this  beaeli  Paget  found  a  nar- 
row, intricate  channel  with  four  fathoms. 

Cook  landed  upon  its  nortlieast  side,  and  siiys  that  towards  the  shore  the 
island  has  bare  sloping  dilfs,  with  a  very  narrow  beach  of  large  pebble-sloiics  in- 
termixed with  brownish  clayey  sand.  The  clilfs  are  a  bluish  rock  in  a  nioldering 
state.  The  timber  is  spruce  from  two  to  three  feet  in  diameter,  and  continues 
from  the  top  of  the  cliff  half  way  up  the  sides  of  the  hills.  Sphagnum  covered 
the  whole  island,     lie  imincd  it  after  Dr.  Kaye. 

Puget  anchored  between  the  northwest  point  of  the  island  and  the  south 
point  of  Wingham  Island  in  seven  fathoms,  with  Winghani  Island  bearing  from 
north  ir>o  east,  to  west  17°  north,  by  compass,  Ki;y.ik  fiom  south  lio  west  to  north 
.'{SO  east,  and  the  nearest  shore  being  a  steep  green  point  on  Kayak  island,  south 
11°  west,  one  mile  distant. 

A  DOUBTFUL  ROCK. 

Tebenkoff  gives  all  that  is  known  of  a  rock  or  bank  supposed  to  exist  in  hiti- 
tnde  oi)o  W,  longitude  llio  ^A)',  and  in  the  track  of  vessels  bound  to  I'orl  lOtcIies 
from  the  position  of  the  Pamplona  Itock.  "Tradition  siiys  tluit  south  of  tluj 
island  of  Kayak  there  exists  a  rock.  Mate  Zaikolf,  of  the  sliii»  Alexunder 
Kewski,  states  in  his  report  in  1781,  that  '  being  afraid  to  run  in  tlie  fog  fnrtlier 
south  on  account  of  a  baidv  sitniited  south  of  Kiiyak,  we  were  compelled  to  lay 
to.'  Guided  by  tiiis  rennuk,  it  is  located  on  tlic  chart  with  a  doubtl'nl  sign,  thir- 
teen miles  south  of  the  southern  extremity  of  Kayak  Island." 

Vancouver  beat  over  a  great  deal  of  ground  in  this  immediate  vicinity  with- 
out encountering  anv  (hmger. 


AVINGHAJI  ISLAND. 

Off  the  northwest  point  of  Kaye  Island  lies  Wingham  Island,  about  two  miles 
distant,  with  six  fathoms  of  water  between  them,  but  a  bar  of  two  fatlu>ms  con- 
necting the  .soutlieast  part  of  Wingham  witli  the  nortli  shores  of  Kayak.  Wing- 
ham Island  is  four  miles  long  north  and  south,  by  two  miles  wide,  Otf  its  north 
point  are  laid  down  some  rocks,  but  on  its  eastern  side,  reached  by  j)assing  its 
north  end  from  tius  west  througii  a  narrow  dianncl  iind  cl<tse  to  the  ishunl  shore, 
Paget  says  it  forms  a  tolerabiy  wellslieltered  roadstead  even  against  the  easterly 
Avinds,  and  that  good  anchorige  will  be  found  to  the  southward  of  th<^  first  small 
beach  from  its  in)rth  point  at  a  comodious  distance  from  the  sinu'c ;  at  this  anchor- 
age the  northeast  point  of  Kayak  bears  south  iiiP  east,  and  Cape  Suckling  north 
70°  east,  true. 

Ami  Vancouver  speaks  of  the  excellent  shelter  which  these  islands  iinnrd 
against  the  sontheasters. 

Belcher  says  this  island  can  be  seen  to  nearly  its  whole  length  between  Cape 
It 


140 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


KiickliiiK' niid  Point  ^losurior,  (tlio  iioitlioast  point  of  Kayak  Island;)  tliat  it  is 
inodcratciy  clcvatcil,  .isinj;'  in  tlin'c  liuniniocks  uhicli  arc  l»ai«'  on  their  sn'ninits. 
Tlif  sontlicrn  liuniniock  from  a  distance  appears  separated  from  the  rest  on  ac- 
oonnt  of  tlic  lowncss  of  the  neck  connecting  them,  Tiie  whole  is  Avell  clothed 
witli  trees. 

If  he  saw  tliis  island  from  a  position  east  of  Capo  Suckling  he  was  at  a  distance 
oi"  twenty-(ught  nnles;  and  either  the  noith  end  of  Kaye  Lsland  is  laid  down  too 
far  north  by  Vancouver,  and  Tebenkoff  who  followed  him,  or  Wingham  Island  is 
not  laid  down  far  enough  north. 

Tehenkoft'  represents  tlie  island  low,  with  the  south  point  rocky. 

i'uget  says  tiiat  in  many  [)laces  the  shores  are  steep,  rugged,  rocky  elitt's;  the 
isjaiul  is  w(!ll  wooded  ;  and  on  its  eastern  shore  two  small  streams  empty  into  the 
sea. 

Wlien  at  anchor  inside  the  north  i)oiut  of  Wingham  Island,  he  <letermiued  its 
latitude  <»(P  ()."iA',  and  Teliunkolf  gives  the  longitude  lllooT'.  At  his  ancliorage 
he  could  catch  lu)  lish  after  repeated  trials. 

The  nearest  point  of  the  main  shore  lies  north,  seven  miles  distant  from  the 
north  end  of  Wingham  Island,  and  was  uamed  Cape  Uej'  by  Vancouver.  Wing- 
ham  was  called  Steele  Island  by  Portlock. 

contkollkk's  bay.* 

The  indentation  in  the  coast  uorth  and  east  of  Kayak  and  Wingham  Lslands, 
and  west  of  ('ape  Suckling,  was  named  by  Cook  Controller's  Hay,  into  tlu'  north- 
west part  of  whieli  enters  a  small  river  culled  the  Chilkaht,  emptying  a  larger 
lake  of  the  same  name  lying  at  the  base  (if  the  mountains. 

In  the  middle  of  tlu'  northwest  ]nni  of  tiiis  bay,  and  six  miles  off  the  mouth 
of  the  Chilkaht,  and  three  miles  east  of  Cape  Iley,  lies  the  island  of  Kanak,  two 
or  tliree  miles  in  exti'ut  and  overgrown  with  wood.  South  of  this  island,  and 
towards  the  edge  of  the  great  tlats,  are  nuuiy  shoals  covered  witii  grass,  and  hav- 
ing the  ai)pearance  of  snudl,  low  islands. 

Tlu'  great  Hats  of  Controller's  Bay  extend  fimr  miles  south  of  Cape  Hey,  and 
as  many  from  the  west  point  of  Cape  Suckling.  IJetween  these  two  ])ositions  it 
cui'\t's  towards  Kayak  and  Wingham,  and  leaves  a  tortuous  ehannej  in  wliich 
four  fathoms  was  carried  to  the  ocean  between  Kayak  and  Ca](e  Suckling.  In  this 
channel  the  tides  were  found  to  set  irregularly,  and  the  winds  batHing.  Puget's 
vessel  was  ashore  on  the  flat  east  of  A\'ingham,  but  got  off  readily. 

Pefuge  in  this  vicinity  is  very  im])ortant,  as  no  harbor  exists  nearer  than 
Ueining  Hay  to  tlu'  east,  and  I'ort  Inches  sixty  miles  to  the  west. 

Forty-one  miles  west  iiortliwest  from  Cape  llamond,  and  nearly  in  line  to 
Ilinehiubrook,  Vancouver  hiys  down  soundings  in  thirty-eight  and  Ibrty  fathoms 
of  water. 


*  NiiTiicd  K:iyiiU  fvotn  its  luiicirii  rcsciiililiiiii  r  tii  ii  ddiilili' ciiiKii'  iii  liiiyuk.    Tcstr  Kiulin. — D.vl.l,. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


147 


OTCIIKK  Oil  MlUni.KTON  ISLAND. 

Tlic  loiifiitiido  of  this  island  is  not  positivt'ly  dcti'iniincd,  Tt  Wiis  visited  in 
1838  by  one  ol'  tlie  mates  of  the  IvnssiaM-.Vnierican  ('onii)any,  and  lie  n'poit.-,  tiiat 
it  is  above  seven  miles  lonj^  from  noitli  to  sontii,  with  a  breailtli  of  about  three 
miles.  The  north  end  is  in  latitnde  ."ilP  ;io',  lonj-itnde  IMP  ;50'.  Oil  both  extrem- 
ities of  the  island  are  reefs  extending  for  three  miles  on  the  prolongation  of  fho 
longer  axis.  Off  the  northern  reef  is  a  roek  upon  Mliich  the  water  breaks  in  great 
jets,  giving  it  the  form  of  a  pillar,  even  with  a  eomitaratively  smooth  sea,  and  it 
has  been  appropriately  7ianu'd  r/ic  P«HH^«i«.  ;  «■ 

The  south  i>oint  of  the  island  is  placed  in  latitude  ~>')°  1'.'!'  and  longitude 
14GO  ;{l'  l)y  Xetzretof,  with  the  reef  four  mih's  south  of  it. 

Oil  the  west  side  is  a  roek  situated  southwest  three  miles  fi'oin  the  northern 
point  of  the  island,  and  north-northwest  of  the  jdace  used  for  anchoring,  where  a 
snniU  cove  exists  with  thirteen  fathom,-;  of  water  over  a  giavelly  bottom. 

F"om  tlui  north  point  i)f  the  island  V;\[h'  Clear  bears  north  71°  west  forty- 
niiu' mill's;  Ca]>e  Ilinchinbroolc  m)rth  11°  west  forty-seven  miles;  Cape  Ilamoml 
north  .^(P  east  twenty-three  miles. 

Thirty-two  miles  south  IP  west  from  the  sontli  [)()int  of  the  island  I'ortlock 
gives  a  sounding  in  ninety-six  fathoms,  over  nuiddy  bottom. 

The  surface  of  the  island  is  comparatively  low,  (piite  level,  and  destitntc  of 


trees:  the  shores  are  craj 


Xy,  especially  on  the  wes 


st  side  of  the  island,  south  of 


the  aiu'horage.  A  few  huts  are  scattered  on  the  shore  near  the  anchorage,  and 
serve  as  a  shelter  foi'  the  natives  temporarily  sojourning  here  for  the  purpose  of 
collecting  sea-wei'ds  and  hunting  seals.  Several  small  lakes,  places  of  refuge  for 
birds  of  passage,  are  found  along  the  eastern  shore. 

In  l<S.'i7  Belcher  anchored  off  the  island  in  twenty-(uu'  fathoms  of  water,  l)ut 
does  not  state  where,  nor  give  the  position  of  the  island.  He  says  it  docs  not 
exceed  thirty  feet  in  height,  has  a  very  soft,  spongy  soil  over  micaceous  shale, 
terspersed  with  (|uart/,  dikes.     Fie  refers  to  it  as  liose  or  Middleton  Island.     At 


ni 


s  anclioraj;( 


he 


iglit  halibut  weighing  one  humlrcd  and  f(u(y  six  pounds. 


Tebeukolf  visited  it  in  ISIO  and  gives  a  view  of  it,  when  the  south  point  bore 
south  (Jl."3  west,  (compass,)  six  miles  distant. 

SEA-OTTKB  BANK. 


This  bank  lies  nearly  equally  distant  between  the  lunth  end  of  Otchck  and 
.south  end  of  Kaye  Islands,  being  north  'tiP  east,  twenty-three  miles  from  the 
former,  and  south  .S()o  oast,  thii'ty-two  miles  from  the  latter.  It  is  laid  down  as 
two  rocks,  two  miles  east-northeast  and  west-southwest  of  eacli  othei',  with  twenty 
and  Ibrty  fathoms  close  to  them,  and  a  liiu'  of  soundings  is  laid  down  with  de]itlis 
of  forty,  lifty,  fifty-live,  and  si.\ty-tive  fathoms,  exleiuling  southwest  by  west  for 
nine  mile.s. 

The  reef  was  discovered  in  I7!»S,  with  the  announcement  that  to  the  "siaitli- 


148 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


cast  of  Iliiichiiilmiok  Isliiiul  (Kliti)<,'iili">iik)  thoic  exists  a  hniik  wliicli  tlio  ('hiijjiifli 
iiiitivcs  assiiic  lis  alxmiids  in  sea-ottor,  wliicli  rt'sort  liciv  for  brcodiii^."  Tlio 
t'xistcnco  of  this  baiilc  was  douhti'd  for  a  long  time;  however,  in  1842,  Mate  Lin- 
(Iciibcifi,  of  the  Russian-Aniei'iean  Conii)an,v,  saw  it,  but  liaving  an  overcast  sky 
lie  (U'teiinined  its  ])osition  approximately  from  Kutchek  J5ay,  and  obtained  lati- 
tude r»!)o  It'  and  longitude  14,'jo  54'. 


PA5IPL0NA  ROCKS. 

Many  doubts  have  been  expressed  about  the  cxistenee  of  these  roeks,  and 
especially  as  to  their  being  visible.  Captain  Bryant,  who  was  whaling  her<^  for 
some  years,  says  there  is  a  submarine  range  in  the  vicinity  of  tl.e  position  usually 
assigned  to  it,  but  this  can  hardly  be  the  case  if  they  are  the  resort  of  the  sea- 
otter,  as  will  be  showu  to  be  the  case. 

Tcbenkotf  says:  "Jn  the  parallel  of  this  Dry  Bay  (latitude  59°  03',  and 
ajtproximatc  longitude  14-'°  40')  there  exists  a  rock  discoxcred  in  177!l  by  a  Span- 
iard, Caiitain  Artciga,  which  he  called  Kix-k  Pamplona.  In  17!>4  3Iate  Talin,  in 
the  ship  Orel,  (Eagle,)  saw  it  and  named  it  after  his  vessel,  but  did  not  detcrmiiio 
its  position." 

Tlu'  navigators  of  the  llu'-  !an-American  Conipanj'  are  divided  in  opinion 
about  it,  but  agree  that  one  r  their  nui!i!»er  rep(»rts  seeing  it  as  a  three-pointed 
rock  ;  another  intbrms  us  that  he  sailed  over  the  longitude  laid  down  by  Tcben- 
koff  and  did  not  sec  it,  although  the  day  was  clear  and  a  man  alod  on  the  look- 
out. 

On  various  charts  the  position  ranges  three  miles  in  latitude,  and  thirty  min- 
utes of  arc  in  longitu«le. 

In  August  l.SOT,  the  United  States  revenue  steamer  Lincoln  intended  to 
search  for  it,  and  when  about  twenty  miles  south  00°  cast  of  its  su)>posed  position 
hove  to  and  sounded  with  one  hundred  and  eighty  fathoms  of  line,  but  found  no 
bottom.  She  driltcd  to  the  ascribed  latitude  al)out  three  o'clock  in  the  moi'iiing, 
but  a  dozen  miles  to  the  eastward,  then  steered  a  c(mrse  that  passed  four  miles 
north  of  its  ascribed  position,  at  (ive  o'clock  a.  in.,  with  a  clear  horizon.  At  seven 
and  three-cpiarters  o'clock  a.  m.,  in  latitude  5!)°  12',  and  longitude  143°  ()."»',  no 
soundings  could  be  had  with  one  hundred  and  eighty  fathoms  of  line.  Xo  other 
ctl'orts  were  made  to  lind  it,  although  the  noise  of  birds  fre(iuenting  land  had  been 
heard  during  the  early  morning. 

Vancouver's  account  of  this  rock  is  as  follows:  George  Portlofl'  informed  lis 
that  a  very  dangerous  rocky  shoal,  about  fitteen  miles  in  length,  lies  by  compass 
in  a  direction  south  l>y  west  sixty-three  miles  from  a  place  called  by  them  lA(la 
Unala.  This  ]Mr.  Tiiget  conceived  to  be  near  the  point  that  had  been  named 
Point  Itiou,  the  eastern  cape  of  the  entrance  to  Icy  Bay.  Portlotl'  himself  had 
been  on  this  shoal,  taking  sea-otters,  and  stated  that  the  lirst  discovery  of  it  was 
owing  to  a  Uussian  galli(»t  having  had  the  misfortune  some  years  before  to  be 
wieckcd  ui)on  it ;  two  of  the  crew  were  drowned,  but  the  rest  escaped  in  tlu-ir 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


149 


boats,  Since  tliat  period  an  annual  vinit  lias  been  made  to  it  for  the  pui'iiose  of 
kiilinj;'  sea-otters,  which  arc  there  met  with ;  and  as  it  f,'enerall.v  proves  advan- 
tageous, J'ortlott" meant  to  stop  there  on  his  return,  "rroiu  the  Spaniards,  alsd,  I. 
afterwards  beeanu'  ae(|uainted  that  a  very  dangerous  roek  e.\ist«'(l  in  this  neigii- 
borhood,  the  situition  of  whieli  they  iiad  taken  great  pains  to  ascertain,  and  had 
found  it  to  be  south  -tl'^  east  from  Cajte  S'M'kling  at  the  distance  of  .>(»  miles,  ami 
which  was  called  by  them  Kocii  i'ami)lona;  when  this  was  delineated  on  our 
charts  it  api)eared  to  lie  in  the  direction  south  77°  east,  distaid  eight  miles  from 
the  rocky  shoal  described  by  Portloff ;  hence  it  may  be  inferred  tliat  Poitloff  and 
the  Spaniards  intended  the  same  shoal,  although  it  is'  not  stated  by  the  latter  to 
be  80  extensive  as  by  the  former.  It  Is  without  doubt  dangerously  situated  tor 
the  navigation  of  this  coast." 

•  ♦  *  The  circumstantial  evidence  appears  too  strong  to  doubt  tho 
existence  of  this  roek. 

ATNA  OR  COrPEU  RIVEU. 

From  Cape  Hey  or  Kanak,  in  latitude  C(P  1.7,  longitude  114'^  50',  the  coast 
runs  west  by  north  half  north  for  thirteen  miles  to  the  eastern  mouth  of  *he 
Copj)er,  with  Cape  ^Martin  or  Kikhtak  {Aut/l ice  Muml)  lying  about  lialf  way,  ami 
on  the  same  course.  This  mouth  of  the  river  is  situated  in  latitude  (10°  17',  longi- 
tude 14r>°  20',  according  to  Tebenkoff.  Thence  the  coast  runs  nurtliwest  to  the 
broad  mouth  of  the  sanu-  stream,  i)assing  several  smaller  mouths  of  the  river 
before  reaching  it.  Along  this  wooded  coast  lies  the  broad  sand  beach  or  Hat 
which  boiuuls  the  shore  for  a  width  of  five  or  six  miles. 

The  principal  mouth  is  a  wide,  shoal  bay,  opening  upon  the  broad,  low  delta, 
and  extending  in  a  general  dire(;tion  north-noitheast  to  the  great  bend  in  latitiule 
(!(|o  4<l',  and  longitude  ttriO  4.V,  where  it  is  two  miles  wide;  thence  it  swe.  ;>,•>  to 
the  south-southeast  for  twenty-three  nules  parallel  to  and  about  tliree  miles  fnim 
the  ocean  shore,  around  the  spur  from  the  nujuntain  chain  to  an  island  wheic  the 
two  i)rincipal  streams  divide,  at  a  distance  of  six  miles  from  the  mouth  nf  the 
eastern  one.  The  whole  of  the  low  delta  formation  is  attrilnited  to  tlie  debris 
brought  down  by  the  Co])per  Ifiver. 

Near  the  edge  of  the  great  flat,  three  miles  south  of  Cajx'  AVhitsed  and  four 
miles  east  of  Point  Bentinck,  lie  two  islands,  and  near  the  eastern  one  the  main 
body  of  water  of  the  Coi)i)er  Kiver  enters  the  ocean.  These  islands  are  <;alled  tho 
Nik-khtykhat;  olf  them  soundings  of  oidy  five  and  seven  fathoms  are  laid  down 
a  mile  and  a  half  from  this  flat.  Xagaief  went  through  tiie  sliallow  channels  of 
this  great  Hat  with  his  bidarkas  (skin  canoes)  from  Kaiak  Island  to  Khtagatiouk 
or  Kinchinbrook  Island.  The  whole  delta  of  the  river,  thirty  miles  long  l>y  four 
or  five  wide,  is  overgrown  with  willow.  Inside  the  i)riucii)al  mouth,  called  Aid 
by  the  natives,  Tebenkoff  says  there  is  a  snudl  rocky  island*  on<'  mile  in  extent, 
about  ten  nules  from  the  ocean  edge  of  the  flats  and  in  llie  middle  of  the  ri\('r, 


•  Viiitulutui  or  Egf{  Liluiiil. 


150 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


wlii'ic  it  is  live  iiiilfs  witlc.  Six  iiiilt's  iioitli  of  tiiis  islet  tlic  river  turn.s  vt'iy  mikI- 
(Iciiiy  to  the  east  iiiid  tlieii  soutli-soutlieast,  at  the  Haiiio  time  eontraetiiiy;  to  a  iiiilo 
or  h'ss  ill  widlii.  Li  llie  northwest  imrt  of  the  great  liemi  is  situated  mi  Liiliaii 
\  ilia;;!'  ( iilliil  A!aj;aink,  ami  placed  liy  SerebreiiikoH'  in  latitude  00°  ll'.^J  and  loii- 
Kitude  WrP  111'. 

The  ciiiTeiit  in  the  lower  reaches  of  the  river  is  slnf;Kish.  A  few  miles  east- 
ward of  the  second  {;reat  lieiid  at  the  eastern  mouth  the  Ivussians  rather  indefl- 
nitei.v  locate  a  larf-c  lake,  the  resort  of  ducks  diiriny  the  breedinj;  season. 

The  course  of  the  river  has  heeu  partly  traced  by  ollicers  of  the  T'lissian- 
Americaii  (Joiiipaiiy,  several  de;;rees  northward  haviny  been  reached  by  an  expe- 
ditiou  followiii};-  Klineek  (Fire)  river,  flowing  from  Lake  J'lavejno,  in  lati- 
tude (!li°  10',  and  longitm'  141(0,  and  from  the  lake  descended  the  Tleshytui  lUvcr 
and  reached  Copper  Hiver. 

Scrcbi'cnikof  ascended  the  river  to  latitude  (!2°  48'. 7,  longitude  147^  .'}()',  where 
he  lost  his  life  at  the  hands  of  the  natives  whom  he  attempted  to  wrong,  but  who 
dcli\cic(l  lip  his  instruments,  books  and  inaiis.  The  general  coiiisc  of  tlie  ii\cr 
for  one  hundred  miles  is  almost  north;  then  runs  west-northwest  for  ninety  miles; 
then  north,  iiorthiiortheast  and  east.  The  depth  of  the  river  is  shallow;  the 
width  occasionally  not  more  than  lii:lf  a  mile.  The  banks  are  moiiiitaiiious, 
especially  the  right  one.  In  many  i)laces  these  mountains  present  periicndicular 
precipices  broken  by  gn-at  gorges  and  ia\  iiies  fiom  whiili  come  glaci<'is.  As  the 
glaciers  ijj;c  forced  into  the  river,  they  are  undermined  by  the  stream,  and  great 
masses  fall  into  the  stream,  with  awful  revt'rbeiations  for  miles. 

(irewingk  says  that  the  gorges  bordering  the  river  are  filled  with  ice  twenty 
fathoms  tliiik  and  one  mile  wide  near  the  river.  Jn  some  places  this  ice  is  coNcred 
with  a  soil  uiion  which  moss  bushes  and  berries  aie  growing.  In  the  middle  of  the 
ii\er  ice  masses  are  often  seen  covered  with  fresh  gr<'en  bushes  and  rijie  berries. 

AboNC  the  rapids,  which  are  formed  where  the  liver  breaks  tliioiigli  the  gla- 
ciers ol'  the  Vakutat  range,  no  more  ice  is  found,  and  the  country  is  free  from  sea 
winds  and  fogs.  These  winds  and  logs  confine  themselves  to  the  ocean  slope  of 
the  range.     In  winter  the  nati\es  lea\('  tlu'  coast  and  retire  to  the  interior. 

One  hundred  miles  above  the  rapids  of  the  Atna  the  swift  Tschettschitna 
enters  from  a  lake  one  hundred  miles  east  of  its  mouth.  It  is  on  this  snnUl  river 
that  the  pure  copper  is  found  in  nuisse.s  from  a  few  iMnuids  to  forty  pcmuds.  Jn 
1S07  we  could  not  ascertain  the  precise  locality  of  the  copper;  we  learned  that 
the  inhabitants  have  tried  to  retain  the  secret  of  its  location,  and  several  parties 
have  been  murdered  or  held  as  slaves  in  at teiii])ting  to  exph)re  the  country;  but 
one  of  the  oflicers  of  the  company  informs  us  that  the  copper  is  found  about  twenty- 
live  or  thirty  niiles  above  the  eastern  mouth,  and  in  readily  moved  mas.ses  of  pure 
copjicr.     We  received  a  ])ie(H'  weighing  about  tlftceii  imuiids. 

There  is  an  Indian  scttU'iiieiit  at  the  niuutli  of  the  Tschettschitna,  and  when 
the  ice  breaks  up  in  the  lake  the  stream  sufhleuly  overflows  its  bunks  and  rushes 
with  such  swiftness  that  the  inhabitants  flee  to  the  mountains. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


IT)  I 


Oil  tlic  Irlt  hiiiik  of  the  Atiiii,  a  mile  aliovc  (lie  Tsclicttscliii mi,  is  the  single 
Iiousc  (if  line  of  till' Ifussiaii  <  ouiiiaii.v's  tnidors.  Tcht'iikotl' placos  it  in  latitiulc 
(iP  L'.S'.l,  ami  litiifjtiluilc  1  l'>^  Hi.  Tp  to  this  ]it)int  llir  livcr  is  wvy  s|iiiis('l.v  pi-o- 
pled  Tlic  shores  aio  rocky,  hut  covi'icd  with  llr,  jioiilar.  wilhiw,  ami  hirch. 
North  of  tliis  ]iost  tlioiv  is  a  tolerably  extemled  plain  lietweeii  the  iiiomitaiiis  on 
both  sides  of  the  river. 

On  the  left  bank,  direetly  in  view  of  the  jxist,  is  the  sii<;ail(mf-shaped  volcano 
Mount  Wiaiifiell,  covered  with  per|ietnal  snow,  but  eniittiiii;-  tire  and  sniuke. 
several  heavy  eartli(|iiakes  every  year.     It  is  not  part  of  an.v  inoiintain 


Thei 


•e  are 


raii;;e,  but  an  isolated  peak.  Ou  Grcwiiiyk's  map  it  "is  less  than  ten  miles  north 
of  the  tradiiij;  jiost. 

In  winter  the  natives,  by  an  easy  jiortaye,  pass  to  I'rinee  AVilliam  Sound, 
from  a  lake  which  they  reach  by  ascendinj;  a  small  stream  emptying'  into  the 
^Vtna  below  the  tradiii'^  iiost ;  others  travt'l  over  monntains,  lakes,  and  j;'it'i't 
frozen  marshes,  to  the  head  of  Cook's  Inlet. 

The  natives  <mI1  the  river  Ij^rili  .  but  the  lJ.i;aleiise  who  trade  with  them  call 
the  east«'rii  month  the  Atna.  It  is  called  the  < 'opiter  River  from  that  metal  bein;; 
foniid  niion  it  and  its  tributaries.  None  of  the  old  navi;nators  saw  the  principal 
month,  nor  did  Hclclier  as  late  as  IS.'JT.  The  natives  of  the  rixcr  arc  described  by 
TiibeiikotV  as  savaj^e,  bloodthirsty,  suspicious,  stubborn,  and  nnwillinji'  to  have 
anythiiif;'  to  do  with  the  IkUssians.  This  disitosition  apjiears  to  have  been 
iiillamed  by  Ser(>brenikoir's  imprndence,  for  in  l.S,"i'J  they  "burst  into  a  very  serious 
and  dauf^erous  revolt,"  which  was,  however,  put  down. 

The  natives  inhabiting  the  coast  between  Yakutat  and  Prince  William  Sound 
are  called  LTgalense,  and  number  about  thirteen  hundred  souls.  They  have  their 
own  langnai,'!',  and  inhabit  the  banks  of  the  streams,  living  up(m  lish  and  siicli 
berries  and  vegetables  as  they  can  gather  or  grow. 

PllINOE  AVILLIAM  .SOUND  Oil   C'UUOACII  GX^LF. 


This  extensive  body  of  water  has  an  area  of  about  twenty  live  hundred  miles. 
It  is  very  irregular  in  shape  and  outline,  but  may  be  described  as  a  great  gulf 
entering  the  coast  to  the  northward  and  spreading  great  arms  in  <'veiy  diri'ction. 
Th(^  entrance,  reckoning  from  Cape  Ilinchinbrook  <(>  Cape  Puget,  tiftyli\e  miles 
ajiart  and  about  west-soiithwest  and  east-iiortheast  from  each  other,  is  mainly 
occupied  by  large  islands,  of  which  Montague  is  the  [irincipal  one,  strc^tching  well 
out  into  the  ocean,  and  by  its  general  direction  of  northeast  and  soiU Invest  nearly 
blocking  the  entrance. 

The  easternmost  i)art  of  the  sound  is  the  head  of  Cordova  Bay,  whose  w atcrs 
reach  within  four  miles  of  the  great  bend  of  (Jopper  liiver.  with  an  intervening 
low  wooded  iieniiisuhi  lying  to  the  southwest,  and  whose  .soutliern  extremity, 
J'oint  Wliitshed,  reaches  within  five  miles  of  Point  Ijcntinck,  to  the  northeast 
extremity   of  Jlinchinbrook   Lsland.     This   intervening  sjtace   between   the   two 


l.")2 


ALASKA  COAHT  PILOT. 


pdiiilx  woiilil  rorin  aiiotlicr  t'litinncc  In  I'lincc  Willimii  SoiiikL  l»nt  is  (lIltMl  Iiy  tlio 
wi'stciii  |nii(  (if  the  ;;r('iit  ('i>|i|K'1'  L'ivi'i"  Hats. 

Miiiiy  III'  tli<-  isliiiMis  in  tin-  soiirhl,  jiiiil  nt'  t\w  points  iiiul  pfiiiiisnliis  toniictl  liy 
tlic  ;;i(at  aims  pciii'tialiii;;' till' laiiil,  arc  low  anil  covcrrd  witli  Wdiid ;  imt  iicliiiul 
tlii'sc  rist^  j'tcinal  liariricrs  of  ice  iiioiiiitaiiis,  especially  to  llic  iioitli  ami  west. 
Till'  waters  of  the  soiiiiil  are  very  deep,  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  tides  ipiitc  laifio, 
and  the  eiineiits  in  the  dilVerciit  ehanncls  are  very  stroiij;-,  with  stroii;:  tide  rip- 
l»lin},'8  ill  the  ciitiaiice  hctwceii  Port  Ktclics  and  .Monta;,nie  Island.  The  waters  of 
the  sound  are  chilled  by  the  larjic  anioiint  of  iee-wator  from  the  siirroiiiidiii};'  ;,dii- 
eicrs;  and,  in  conseipieiice  of  this  and  the  colder  air  from  the  moiiiitaiiis,  niectiii;,' 
the  warmer  waters  ami  warmer  vajiorladeii  airs  from  the  (iiilf  of  Alaska,  tlio 
weather  is  very  changeable,  ami  sudden  sipialls  of  wind  and  thick  fogs  prevail. 

North  and  west  of  the  sound  lies  an  elevated  range  of  iiinantains,  streteliing 
northwestward  from  the  western  jiavt  of  the  Jfoiint  St.  lOlias  range,  (perhaps  being 
a  coiitiniiation  of  it,)  and  inclosing  the  sound  round  to  the  north.  The  highest 
jteak  is  abiuit  eighty  miles  distant  from  the  shores;  and  Tcbeiikotf  saw  the  range 
in  ISIS  in  all  its  grandeur,  but  I'cinarked  no  indication  of  any  active  \dlcaiioes. 
On  the  north  slnue  glacier.s  come  down  to  the  heads  of  the  bays,  and  Whidboy 
says  that  such  great  masses  are  sometimes  detached  from  their  faces  that  the. 
noise  of  the  shock  passes  over  the  sound  like  dull,  heavy  thunder,  and  he  felt  the 
earth  tremble  at  a  distance  of  six  miles  from  the  locality  of  one  of  these  concus- 
sions. 

There  is  communication  between  the  western  jtart  of  the  sound  and  Cook's 
Tnh't;  and  Vancouver  understood  that  a  party  he  met  with  had  crossed  from 
Tiirnagain  arm  of  Cook's  Lilet  to  Passage  Canal  of  J'rince  William  Sound. 
Tebenkod"  says  that  looking  at  the  short  distance  which  separates  these  waters,  it 
would  seem  as  if  the  isthmus  were  the  best  route  of  intercommunication;  but  the 
natives  prefer  to  take  c'ther  of  the  imtside  routes,  or  a  iiortage  of  eight  miles 
from  Uesurrectiou  P>ay,  in  latitude  (ido  07',  to  the  lake  whence  the  Kakni  River 
rises,  and  descend  to  Cook'.s  Inlet,  in  hxtitude  00°  ;5L",  where  the  Kussians  have  the 
stockaded  post  St.  Nicholas.  Grewingk's  map  indicates  that  this  portage  exists 
between  the  head  of  Resurrection  Bay  and  the  Tnstiimena  Lake,  which  lies  on  the 
western  think  of  great  glaciers,  and  empties  by  the  Kassilov  iJiver  into  Cook's 
Inlet,  a  few  miles  south  of  Fort  Nicolas. 

The  passage  on  the  isthmus  passes  through  a  ravine  between  two  mountains; 
the  ravine  is  tilled  in  part  by  a  glacier,  from  beneath  which  Hows  a  stream.  Dur- 
ing summer  this  ice  melts,  and  leaves  a  continuous  cavern  adorned  with  icy  stalac- 
tites overhanging  the  stream.  Some  courageous  natives  during  their  winter  travel 
take  the  isthmus  loute,  when  the  ravines  and  precipices  are  covered  with  drifted 
snow.  (Tebenkotf.) 

Vancouver  says  the  sound  reipiired  the  greatest  circumspection  to  navigate, 
and  although  it  diverges  into  many  extensive  arms,  yet  noiu^  of  them  can  l)e  con- 
sidered as  commodious  harbors,  on  account  of  the  rocks  and  shoals  that  obstruct 


ALASKA  COAST  IMLOT. 


i:);i 


tlio  appi'Oiicli  to  tliciii  or  of  the  vory  aw/At  (h'pth  of  wiittT  at  or  nlioiit  their 
••iitniiiccs. 

Thf  lii;,'li«'st  liititude  roaclicd  by  ariii.s  of  tlic  .soiiiid  is  in  I'orl  Valilcs,  lat  it  iidc  (IP 
0.%  loii^citudt'  IKP  ")7'  witii  no  ice  at  its  lirad,  and  Port  Wells,  latituili- (iio  OUy, 
lon;;itud<'  1 IS^  (»,V,  witli  a  yieat  ;;laeier  at  tiie  head. 

Tlie  natives  reach  Copper  IJiver  ahout  lalilnde  01;}^  from  some  one  of  Die 
nunierons  arms  at  tiit^  northeast  i>art  of  the  sound. 

The  nnmlier  of  Indians  in  tho  simnd  is  e.stimated  at  sixteen  hnndred  sonis  hy 
Tehenkotf.  The  principal  settlement  is  at  Fort  Constantine,  and  tlie  second  on 
Tklallvhiont  or  Hawkins  Island,  northeast  of  Ilinehinl^rook  Island.  The  Indians 
of  this  rej;ion  are  called  the  Chn;,'ach. 

For  ronnirks  on  the  climate  of  the  soiiinl  see  another  pa/^c.     Portloi^k  experi 
enced  very  f<»f,'fi!.V»  hoisterous  weather  with  northeast  winds,  in  .May,  olf  the  sound. 
Vancouver  had  boisterous  weather  in  June  in  the  sound. 

It  is  proper  to  make  the  followin;;'  explanation  of  our  knowledj;e  of  this  exten- 
sive sound  as  nothing  has  been  done  wince  the  time  of  Vanc<mver,  who  says  tho 
examination  of  the  contineidal  shoi'cs  of  the  sound  were  completed,  but  the 
num<>rous  islands,  inlets,  rocks,  and  shoals,  which  are  contained  within  thissjiace, 
beinj;-  considered  as  secoinlary  objects,  did  not  fall  within  llu*  limits  of  his  service, 
of  which  tho  i)rincipal  object  was  to  survey  the  shore  of  tho  continent, 

lIINf:HINlJROOK  isr-AND. 

This  island  occni)ies  the  eastern  part  of  tlu'  main  entrance  into  I'rince  Wil- 
liam Sonnd ;  tho  southeastorn  face  of  tho  island  is  a  nearly  stiai;;ht  line  lyinf( 
northeast  lialf  oast  and  southwest  half  west  for  Hoventoeu  nules,  broken  by  nnmer 
ous  .snndl  coves,  but,  so  far  as  kiu)wu,  without  ad'ordiuf,'  any  shelter.  I'uget  lays 
down  fourteen  to  nine  fathoms  two  miles  broad  oil'  the  northeastern  i)art  of  tho 
i.sland.  The  wcjsteru  face  runs  luiarly  north  for  lifleen  miles  indented  by  Port 
Etches.  Johnstono  aa;ys  that  in  imssin<(  alonjf  th»^  northwest  part  of  the  islaiid 
"which  in  westerly  direction  is  formed  into  coves  and  small  oiten  bays,"  he 
8toi)ped  in  one  of  these  bays  and  found  a  wooden  cross  ci'ccted  on  which  was 
inscribed  "Carolus  IV  llispau.  Kex.  A.  N.  17!»0  I"  I)"  Salvador  l-'idaljio."  This 
Avouhl  appeal"  to  bo  about  four  miles  oust  of  tho  northwest  point  where  ho 
observed  tho  latitude  tioo  .'iO',  almost  the  same  as  given  by  TobenkotV.  The  north- 
west point  of  the  island  having  remained  without  any  designation,  the  l.'nitcd 
States  Coast  Survey  has  named  it  Johnstcme  I'oint.  The  ncuth  side  of  the  island 
lies  nearly  east  and  west  for  .seven  or  eight  miles  to  tho  mile-wide  j)assago 
between  it  and  the  southwe.st  end  of  UawkiiLs*  Island.  This  passage  leads  south 
for  three  miles  to  a  large  bay  in  the  northeast  side  of  IIinchiid)rook  Island,  with 
soundings  in  from  two  to  live  fathoms.  The  n(...iieast  extremity  of  the  island  is  a 
sharp  narrow  point  nanu-d   i'oint   Hcntinck,!  to  which  stretches  the  sou'.hwest- 


"  Portloi'k  named  tliin  Rhso  iHlnnd  hi  1787. 

t  Named  by  Vancouver,  1794 ;  it  was  mimed  Point  Steeli:  by  Portlnck,  in  17'<7. 

20 


"WUffWWHf  J,U-  '  I*  ■^^**'!?"-",T'/m*lf , iP » U*«WJJ,l|i.UI  IP ii.p  Wi#« 


LYt 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


«;tiin()st  j>aTt  of  tlio  Copper  I'ivcr  tliits.  Q'liis  point  li<»s  in  latitnilf  (30°  27'  iiccoid- 
iiij;  lo  TflienliolV;  a;ul  li\o  or  nI.v  miles  to  tlio  nortliciist  by  oust  lurCeast  lies 
Point  Wliitslicd,*  while  between  these  two  lies  a  "low.  nninterrn]ite(l,  barren 
^ai.tl  as  lar  as  l!ie  eye  could  ri'aeli''  from  .lohnstone's  Imat.  'J'liis  bank  seemed 
impassable  at  lo'.v  water,  but  some  of  tlie  Ifassiaa  boats  have  jjassed  thronHh 
clianuels  at  hi^Jih  watei  Looking;  from  Point  iJentinek  the  space  toward  Point 
■\Vliitslied  was  occupied  by  a  tremendous  surf  in  boisterous  .southeast  weather. 

We  have  no  description  of  the  i)iiysieal  ap[»eavances  of  this  island;  ttn  Teben- 
koir  it  is  laid  down  as  high  and  presenting  a  mountainous  ri«lge  towards  the  ocean, 
with  the  Io\\(M'  ]iarts  exhibiting  a  growth  of  s]>i'uce.  The  l^sr.uiinanx  name  of  the 
island  is  Klitagalioiik,  by  which  it  is  known  ou  liussiun  maps;  Grewingk  calls  i*i 
Nutsehek,  which  is  the  Indian  ai)pelhition. 

ENTKANCl^.S  TO   }'K1X(;E   WILLIAM  .SOV^ND. 


The  eastern  and  usual  entrance  to  this  sound  is  about  six  miles  wide  between 
(ape  llinehinbrook  on  the  east  and  Point  Zaikolft  ou  the  west.  The  titlal  (.'urrents 
run  al)out  three  miles  per  hour;  much  fog  is  reported  by  the;  Russian  navigators 
to  i»revail  about  the  entrance.  The  depth  o?'  water  in  the  eliannel  is  great — l!el- 
clui  has  one  hundred  and  six  fathoms  one  and  a  half  miles  west  of  the  <^ape. 
The  a])proa(;l'ies  to  this  entranee  are  in  part  obstructed  by  the  Seal  Itocka 
described  on  another  page,  otheiwi.se  tli  :  apjtroaches  are  bold  and  the  <,'oasts  east 
and  west  foifitteen  or  twenty  Uiiles  f:ee  of  known  dangers.  Twenty-two  mile.S 
southeast  by  east  one  fourth  east  from  CajK-  ilinchinbi'ook,  sdundings  in  tliirty- 
eiglil  and  forty  fathoms  are  laid  down  by  N'ancouver.  The  middle  eutrance  is 
between  Montague  Jslaiul  on  the  east  ami  Latouche  Island  on  the  west.  The 
width  of  the  ( utranee  between  their  .southern  i)oint.s,  which  lie  northwest  three- 
(juart' ;  .  north  i.nd  souMu'ast  three  qua  iters  .south  from  each  other,  is  alxuil  nine 
mile.-:  wide,  but  decreases  to  three  abo.w  ten  miles  insicU'.  strong  ti<lal  cnrrent.s 
of  three  and  four  miles  per  hour  pass  through  this  jiassage,  olV  the  entranee  of 
whi.'h  I'ortloek  found  sixty-live  fathoms  mud.  when  Cape  Clear  bore  about  east 
three  (jUaiters  south,  seven  or  eight  miCs;  when  the  cape  bore  a'sout  east  by 
north  half  noiih.  distance  six  miles,  he  found  forty-three  fathoms  over  gravel, 
small  ston.'-i,  and  shells.  Xo  know  n  dangers  I'xist  olf  this  entrance,  and  the  head- 
lands are  bold;  the  weather  is  generally  unfav(Mab|e,  and  the  channel  inside  has 
lunnerous  dangei's  tbi' a  sailing  ves.sel.  Yancouver  .says  tlnit  from  the  nnniber  ;if 
i'o(  ks  whicli  he  discovereil  in  this  passage  be*'veen  Montague  and  the  Creeu 
Islands  na\iga1ion  is  infinitely  more  intricate  aval  unpleasaul  than  had  been 
imagined  from  the  accounts  of  Cook,  Pent  lock,  and  others. 

The  other  entrances  to  the  soiuid  are  the  narrow  one  to  the  wtst  of  Latouelie 
Inland,  described  on  auolher  i>ag(-,  and  tin' widei' one,  lixc  miles  west,  between 
Point  I'ilrington  on  the  east  and  Cape  Puget  on  the  west.     We  kiu)w  little  of 


*  NiUiud  |p_v  VaiicdUM  ■ .  IT'.H. 

t  Jinniod  liy  tli«  IJjiittU  iiuxtvtt  C'lxmt  f^iiivi.v  in  li-OS. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


155 


tlioni.    The  formov  was  trnvcrsod  liy  ITiiywiird  in  bouts  Ix'twccii  Port   Ktclifs  itiul 
Cook's  Inlet,  nv.d  ( iillt.'d  Prinoi-  of  NNalcs  Piissago. 

•CAPK   UINCIIINUnooK. 

This  capo  i-  'lie  south  poini  of  Iliiicliiiiliioolv  Island,  anil  ilic  eastern  |>oini  of 
the  piinciiial  entrance  to  Prince  William  Sound. 

The  southeast  extremity  of  this  eaj)e  is  north  VCP  wi-st,  distant  sixty-lour 
miles  from  the  south  i»oint  of  Kayak  Island,  and  is  <lesij;nated  the  Ocean  Cape  on 
TebeidvotPs  cha't.  It  lies  in  latitude  (>0o  Kl',  lonj-itude  \  UP  17'.  Imoiu  this  point 
the  .shore  stretches  west  m  nth  west  and  then  ntu'thwest  for  three  miles  to  the 
entran<'e  to  l<]tcl,es  harbor,  (Nutchek,  of  the  IJussians.) 

From  this  <■:!(»•  the  Seal  Itocks,  directly  in  the  ai>|iroacli  to  the  entrance  (tf 
Prince  William  Suuud,  lie  .seven  miles  .south  50°  west,  aeeording  to  Vancouver. 

SEAT.    HOCKS. 

A  firou))  of  snndl  rocky  islets  lies  otVCajje  Tlincliinbrook,  on  the  luolonjration 
of  the  southeast  shore  of  the  island,  ami  seven  nnles  south  ."ifP  west  from  the  east- 
ern i)art  of  the  I'ape  ;  and  also  seven  miles  broad  oil'  the  (southeast  shore  <p|'  Mon- 
taf;iie  Island.  In  this  vicinity  of  much  Ibi;  they  foiin  a  danH'enus  impediment, 
dire<'tly  in  the  mi<l  entrance  to  i'rime  AVilliam  Sound.  Tebcn'volV  has  a  view  of 
them  when  beaiinj;  north  I'lP  west,  distant  three  miles,  when  two  larfic  rocks  .show 
towards  the  west  on  the  group  and  numerous  snmll  ones  to  the  eastward.  He  has 
their  position  jn'operly  jdaceil  on  his  chait,  but  does  not  refer  to  tiicm  in  his 
ileseription.  Vani'ou\('r  describes  them  as  a  "  barren,  tlat,  rocky  islet  with  several 
rocks  lyin;i'  at  a  small  distance  fiom  it."  Cook  tirst  discovered  them,  but  did  not 
i)laee  them  on  his  ehait. 

ri)UT  irrciiKs  ou  nutciiek  hav. 

This  bay  lies  in  the  southwestern  part  of  IFinchinbi-ook  island  and  opens 
directly  upon  the  narrowe^t  part  of  the  enti'aiice  to  PriiiiM^  William  Sound.  The 
south  jtoint  of  entrance  is  situated  in  latitude  (l(P  IO',t  louf-itude  I  l(P  ."iti'  aciMuil- 
ing  to  Chornotl"  and  Uelcher,  altliouj,di  TebenkotV  places  it  in  lalitmle  (KP  IS',  Ion- 
};itude  lU'P  oP.  It  has  very  bold  water  etosi'  to  it.  Helchei'  lias  one  hun<hcd  and 
si.K  fathoms  a  mile  and  a  half  west  northwest  from  it;  he  anchored  close  under 
the  !)lutV  in  seventeen  fathoms.  The  immediate  shori;  is  b(dd  and  rocky.  The 
jioint  to  the  northward  of  P(ut  Ltches  is  distant  three  or  foui'  miles  north  by  west, 
and  nanu'd  .l/('(?r(V;/e  or  Bear  Cape.  The  nearest  shore  on  the  oi)posite  side  of  the 
entrance  to  the  sound  is  Point  Zai<lolT',  distant  six  ndles  west  northwest. 

Two  miles  inside  the  southern  jxiinl  of  eidi'ance  to  the  ita.s.  Cook  anchoreil 
diu'inj;' a  thick   foji   in  a   snmll   co\i>  aboal    a   ipiartcr  of  a  mile  otV  shurc  in  ei;;lit 

*  Niuiit!(l  l>.v  Clink  hi  177>^ ;  on  UIh  chart  it  ih  JUiicliingliroiik  ;  in  tliu  text  lliiidiiiiglm)l<i.>.  Tli  t 
lircMi'iit  Niiclliiiy;  its  Vaiicdiivi'i'M. 

t  Viiiiiciiivi'i-  pliiird  it  ill  hititiiilc  (10    llj'..">. 


i:)») 


ALASKA  COA8T  I'lLOT. 


I'litliitins  (ivfT  imidily  bottom.  This  covo  lies  Tiearly  tlirco  iiiilos  south  l»y  west 
I'nim  J'"(>  '  .  ■istaiitinc.  CooU  f;ives  a  view  of  the  couiiiiy  from  tliis  cove  ;  hi;",h 
iiumiitaiiis  ■  "V  diicction,  ami  covered  with  patches  of  timber  and  snow.  The 
noitlieiM  |>aii  of  tile  eiitiiine<'  is  ()ecii|»ied  l>y  a  mass  of  i'oel<y  ish'ts,  named  tlie 
I'orpoise  or  I$ird  Hocks,  nearly  half  a  mile  in  extent,  described  by  Cook  a.s  "rocky 
islands,"  and  havin^j;' twenty  fatlioms  close  to  their  south  faces  accoidinji  to  IJclcher. 
Tile  space  between  tliem  and  tlie  noitlieast  sliore  has  not  been  siMindcd.  Tliey  lie 
north  by  ea.st  two  and  a  quarter  miles  from  the  south  point  of  entrance,  and  aue 
mile  and  a  ijuaiter  southwest  iiy  west  from  I'ort  Constantine,  and  on  the  I'.'olonfja- 
tion  of  tlie  hij:li  ridfic  terminating;-  at  the  fort.  Iiefweeii  these  rocks  and  the  south 
shm'cs  tiio  soundings  iaii;;e  from  sixty  to  thirty  fathoms.  The  nearest  .vtiithern 
shori!  fi'om  th(^  I'orjioise  liocks  lies  southward  one  and  a  half  mile,  aud  Ikis  may 
be  considered  the  available  width  of  the  eutrance. 

Tlu!  .south  .shore  of  the  bay,  indented  by  two  or  three  small  c».  .■.s,  is  nearly 
Ktrai};ht  from  the  out(!r  jiointto  the  head,  a  distance  of  ei^ht  miles  on  a  northeast 
by  east  course  ;  the  bay  has  the  same  direction  as  the  south  shore,  and  one  mile 
northeast  by  east  from  the  Pori»oise  Kocks  is  Point  l$arber*  on  the  north  shore. 
This  point  lies  north  northeast  three  and  a  half  miles  from  the  .south  point. 
The  north  shore  commences  from  this  point  to  run  on  the  same  j^eneral  cour.se  a.s 
the  south  shore,  fifradnally,  however,  approaching'  it  at  the  head.  Two  miles  north- 
east wanl  from  Point  IJarlier  on  the  ncu'th  .shore  a  lar{;e  bay  indents  lue  shore,  and 
receives  the  waters  of  an  extensive  laj^ooii  through  a  ver,\  narrow  channel. 

The  southea.st  .shine  is  bounded  by  high  mountain.s,  .skirted along  the  innnedi- 
ate  shore  with  a  narrow  belt  of  wooded  land. 

'Ihe  Kussiaiis  Innc  an  anchorage  in  (laidiii  Cove  on  the  .southea.st  shore,  fmf 
and  a  half  mile  from  the  head  of  the  bay  and  two  and  a  half  miles  east  sontli- 
east  from  Point  Phii»])s,  with  two  small  streams  entering  it.  It  a)>pears  well  i»ro- 
tected  and  has  regular  soundings  in  five  aud  four  fathoms.  Porilock  anchored 
here  in  17S7,  in  live  fathoms  muddy  bottom,  and  called  the  i.sland  jirotecting  it 
(larden  Island,  beeau.so  he  planted  a  variety  of  garden  seeds  upon  it;  the  western 
rocky  \)o'mt  he  mimed  Point  Horn.*  This  anchorage  affords  an  abundance  of  mus- 
cles and  cr,d)s;  and  in  the  bay  abreast  of  it  he  caught  abundance  of  hue  cod  and 
halibut,  and  <'ven  caught  them  alongside  the  vessel.  With  the  same  he  caught 
hogsheads  of  small  but  very  good  herring.  Sometimes  took  two  thousand  salmon 
at  one  haul  of  the  .seine,  and  they  were  in  sneli  quantities  that  any  (pnintity  might 
Inive  been  taken,  {.lime  11.)  Two  small  streams  enter  this  cove.  In  this  cove  he 
cut  good  sticks  for  spare  topnu.sts.  mizeu-mast,  and  mi/.enyard.  On  flarden  Island 
Portlock  lopjied  olV  all  Ihe  branches  from  the  higiiest  tree  on  the  isiand  and  fixed 
a  statV  about  ten  feet  long  at  the  to])  with  a  wooden  aiiiic  on  it,  and  near  the  hot 
toni  was  inscrilied  (he  shii)'s  name,  with  Ihe  year  and  dav  of  the  month.  IJchdicr 
I'ound  (his  tree  in  1S,'$7,  with  the  inscription,  '•  Pint  Mtclies,  ship  Js.ing  Cemge, 
^.ath.  Portlock,  Commr.,  duly  L'_*  ITST." 


"  NmiHil  l>.v  I'ortlook,  17H7. 


ALASIv^V  COAST  PILOT. 


IT)" 


Tlio  northwest  sliorc  is  bold,  iintl  for  llio  first  two  miles  oast  of  tlio  fort  is 
formed  hy  the  southeast  face  ol  a  liij;li  iieiiinsida,  terminatiiij;-  at  the  norllieast  by 
(.'ape  riiipps,  wheri-  a  narrow  channel  sejtanites  it  from  the  main  ami  ;;ives  pas- 
safjc  to  a  large  inner  liny  or  la,i;(ion,  tlic  hea<l  of  wliieh  sfretcl:''s  soiilhwest  l4>\vMr(Is 
the  sound,  from  wliieh  it  is  separated  by  a  beaeh  only  a  few  liuiidre<l  yards  wide. 
This  la;;non  is  abont  two  miles  hni;;-  and  nearly  one  wide,  with  shallow  water  oecii- 
jiied  by  Hats,  l)nt  alfording  a  ciiamiel  of  twelve  I'eet  water  nearly  to  I'oit  ('oiistan 
tine,  which  lies  north  only  two- lUlhs  of  a  mile  froai  the  north  jiointuf  the  eiitranee 
to  Etehea. 

Where  the  jiassajre  leads  from  Port  Etches  to  Constantine  or  Prooks*  harbor, 
as  the  la^-ooii  is  called,  the  shores  recede  and  form  a  bay  a  mile  wide,  iioitheasl  and 
southw»'st,  and  nearly  three-quarters  of  a  mile  deep,  with  anchora;;(nii  from  live, 
to  seven  fathoms  of  water  hall'  a  mile  fiom  sIkuc,  and  over  xcry  e\cii  buituin.     A 
small  stream  empties  fnnu  the  north  into  this  indentation  inuthof  llu  above  rocks. 
At  the  above  anehorafi'e  a  vessel  lies  apparently  too  close  to  the  isUls  for  a  com- 
fortable berth  if  ii  southeaster  springs  up  suddenly.    IJelcher  says  lliat  he  aiiciiored 
in  seven  fathoms  when  the  islets  bore  iiorlli  and  the  weslein  slaire  bore  souiliwesl 
half  west,  and    tla^    nearest    blulf  land  to  tlie   west   one  lliinl   ol'   a    mile  dis 
tant  ;  and  that  when   it  blew  hard  tlie  vessel  l)iou;;lil  liidiie  her  anchor,     in  look 
ing  into  the  port  with  a  fresh  ntu'theast  l)ree/e,  the  souiuliii;L;s  on  both  shores  gave 
twenty-live,  thirty,  and  forty  fathoms  at  every  tack,  close  in  shore  and  almost 
touching  the  rocks. 

The  English  chart  by  Pelchor  gives  a  depth  of  two  and  a  half  fatlKuns  as  the 
least  -water  into  Constantine  Harbor,  but  a  rock  having  only  four  feet  at  low  water 
is  laid  down  in  mi<lchaiiiiel  on  the  Piissiaii  survey  by  Choriioif.  The  ciiireiit 
through  the  strait,  which  is  only  two  hundred  yards  wide,  soiiii'tiiiies  runs  four 
knots  per  hour.  In  the  outer  bay  they  are  also  (piite  strong,  and  the  rise  am!  fall 
«if  tide  is  stated  to  l)o  nine  and  a  half  feet  ;  but  with  southerly  winds  uml  in  the 
autumn  Tebenkotl  says  they  rise  esen  li^'teen  feet.  The  time  of  higli  water  at  full 
and  change  is  given  Ui,  low.  by  Pelchcr. 

The  geographical  position  of  Fort  Constantine  from  tlie  mean  of  the  observa- 
tions of  ChornoilT  and  Pelcher  is  latitude  (itP  '20'  l.l"  (diU'ering  only  (i")  when  re- 
duced ace(U'diiig  to  Piissian  inaiiuscript  survey,)  and  the  longitude  IKi'J  .">l"  IJ", 
being  the  mean  of  Ivussian  and  ICiiglish  determinaticms  from  Sitk;  applieil  to  ihc 
Coii8tSur\ey  (h'trrmimitioiis  of  Sitka.  Magnetic  variation  in  l.s,i7  vvas;)l'>  ;W  east. 
Chornolf  gives  31°  east,  in  lAMl 

I'ort  Constantiiu'  servers  as  a  defense  of  the  (  liugaeh  Indians  against  the  en 
croaehments  ami  atta<'ks  of  th  '  ivoloshes  ami  i  ualense. 

Pelcher  says  that  in  18.'37  the  houses  of  ilic  company  were  in-'fiided  within  a 
substantial  wooden  quadrangle  furnished  at  its  sea  angles  with  two  octagonal  tiir- 


•  NiuhimI  liy  PiiHliirk,  I<ST.      lie   li:i il  I'ml  Ktrlii  . 

iiKTcliiiiitH  <i)iii]mHiiit;   "'I'lii'  KiiiK  (iiuij;!'-,  Suiiiid  (.'oiii| 
Wt'HtClll  CllllHt  of  AiinTirii  to  ClLiliii. 


'   K'icli 

I   ■!■    ' 


I  ( ';iititiiiii  Kli'lii'H,  our  III'  ihi' 
\  ill;;  oil  .1  III!'  II'ikIi'  t'lo'ii  IIm' 


158 


ALASKA  COAST  ril/)T. 


rf'ts  rn)ipci]  ill  tlio  old  I^iif,disli  style,  aiiil  iiid'ccd  with  looj)  holes  and  ports.  The 
siiinmit  of  the  line  of  the  stockade  is  armed  with  spikes  of  wood  ;  and  the  walls 
of  th(!  stockades  are  ei;iliteen  inehes  thiek  and  well  calculated  to  dcly  musketry, 

or  the  climate  of  Port  Miches,  I'ortlock  says  that  whei.  he  anchored  in  (lar- 
den  ("ove,  ^lay  10  JStlT,  the  land  around  had  a  dreary  a[»pearaiice,  lieiuj;'  covered 
witli  snow  live  or  six  feet  deep  cpiite  down  to  hijihwater  mark,  so  that  the  only 
space  where  the  crew  could  walk  was  on  (he  beach  at  low  wat(u\  fu  June  In; 
jilanted  many  fiarden  si'cds  on  the  small  island,  so  .hat  the  snow  was  ^one  hefoi'c* 
the  middle  uf  the  mouth.  June  l!>,  he  says  the  surrouudiufr  country  wore  a  diller- 
eut  aspect  from  Mhat  it  did  at  their  arrival ;  the  heavy  rains  had  melted  most  of 
the  MU)W,  and  cverythinf^f  seemed  to  inomise  the  speetly  approach  of  sju'ing.  J?y 
June  24,  parties  who  ascended  the  highest  hills  in  the  neighborhood  found  a  vari- 
:;*y  of  tlowcrs  in  fidl  bloom. 

JIc  fonml  "wild  wheat"  Just  above  the  beach  between  the  cove  and  a  fresli- 
Avater  lagoon  that  empties  itself  by  a  small  stream  at  the  n(n'th  part  of  the  beach. 
This  wild  wheat  is  an  rlijmKs  with  an  ear  somewhat  like  wheat,  a  strong  wheat-like 
stalk  and  leaves,  and  a  grain  attaining  at  Kadiak  and  Unalaska  the  size  of  an 
oat  grain.  The  country  abounds  in  i>iiu^  trees,  some  very  large;  alder,  a  kind  of 
hazel,  but  only  large  enough  for  handspikes,  lierry  bushes  are  in  great  abundaiu-e 
and  variety,  but  not  ri|)e  .Iidy  .Jl.  Among  numerous  vi  getables  and  plants  he 
iMitiees  the  wild  jiea,  doubtless  thv  iti.sidii  iiKiritiniKin  which  we  found  at  Unalaska, 
ami  is  distributed  as  far  north  as  (>!''.  The  snrronmling  country,  after  (lie  snow 
left  it,  which  was  about  the  middle  of  .lune  is  (piite  pleasant ;  and  the  weather  at 
tinu's,  long  befme  that  perioil  very  fnic  and  pleasant,  but  at  other  times  exceed- 
ingly boistenuis  with  constant  rain,  which,  however,  dissolves  the  snow,  when 
the  ]»lanis  immediately  sjtring  foiih.  lie  recommended  West  or  Brooks  Harbor  as 
the  .site  for  a  settlenu'ut. 

Iklcher,  in  1S.'«7.  notices  the  above-nu'utioucd  patch  of  wild  grain,  ami  fcmud 
strawlx'rriesand  other  berries  iu  toleiabU-  profusion  Mithout  searching  for  them. 

SNTO  COBI«Sat  BAY. 


Twenty  foitr  miles  north  of  the  enh-anw  to  Port  Etches,  and  fourteen  miles 
north  l>y  west  tiinvt'-<pi.u'ters  west  froik ')t>toisNuie  Point,  lies  i  small  island  about 
one  mile  iu  extent,  and  lying  otV  tin-  wt>!s«i'ri'  point  of  the  jh  ninsula  between  jiorts 
Fidalgo  and  Oravina.  Tl«c  chawrtiel  ^tween  fhis  island  and  the  ])eninsula  is 
about  a  mile  wide  and  '•se-attft'tv**  ovei'  with  many  rocks."  The  niuthern  i»oint  of 
this  island  lies  about  two  TUi'U's  southwestward  iroui  tin'  west  jtoint  of  Siuig 
Corner  IJay.  This  harbor  lies  o|K>n  to  the  northwest;  the  entrance  about  two 
miles  wide,  and  the  general  direetiou  of  the  bay  southeast,  wth  stinie  rocks  and  an 
islet  laid  down  on  the  easicrn  sliore.  CiH»k  says  it  is  ".«  Hue  bay  or  rather  hai- 
bor;"  he  liiMt  iuti>  it  in  a  thick  to;;,  with  excessively  har«l  s»jn;4lls  and  rain,  ami 
of  course  saw  notliirru,  but  the  shores  ot'  thelKiv.  li  ivtssiu;;  the  islaiid  oti'  the 
peninsula  he  had  a  de[>th  ot  twenty  six  falhoi»».s  over  a  mudi(\  bottom;  soon  after- 


^p 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


l.V.) 


■wards  tlio  (lojitli  inrreased  (o  sixty  and  seventy  I'atlioiii.s  ovr  rocky  bottom;  Init  in 
the  enlianee  to  tiie  liay  I  lie  deptli  was  IVoin  tliirty  to  six,  the  hist,  hein^'  wvy  near 
the  shore.  He  was  unable  to  ;^<'t  as  far  in  liie  liay  as  lie  wislied,  ;uid  anciiored  in 
thiileeii  I'alhonis.  Tlie  heail  of  tlie  hay  is  slieltered  from  all  wimls.  witli  a  depth 
of  water  from  seven  to  (iiree  fatlioms  over  a  muddy  bottom.  The  hind  near  tiie, 
shore  is  hnv,  part  clear  and  part  wooch'il.  Thi'  tdear  ;;ronnd  was  covered  (^Liy 
10  1778)  with  two  or  three  feet  thick  of  .snow,  but  very  litth'  hiy  in  tlie  wood. 
The  very  summits  of  the  neif;hborinj^  liills  were  covered  witii  wood.  Imt  those 
further  inliuul  seemed  to  be  iialced'rocks  lionnd  in  snow.  The  west  point  of  Sniii; 
Corner  I>ay  is  ]»laced  in  latitude  (!(P  t."»V  and  !on.nitn<le  IKP  .").")'. 

He  ^ives  a  \  iew  of  Snii^'  (corner  Com-,  a  maj;nilieeiit  scene  of  desolate  ^r;Mid- 
enr  risin;;'  ])recipitoi;sly  from  tlii'  ina);^iii  of  low  x''""'"!-  N'aiieonver  sa\s  tliat 
Sniiji'  Corner  Lay  and  (lie  ]iassaj;('  thereto  from  the  ocean  seem  to  i>e  less  liable  to 
daii<i'ers  from  shoals  and  rocks  than  all  tiie  places  of  shelter  the  sound  alfords. 
There  were  no  natives  in  the  bay. 

It  would  serve  no  piod  itiirjiose  to  describi'  the  nnmeidiis  ports,  peninsulas, 
islands,  and  chaiiiicls  of  Prince  William  Sound,  they  are  only  described  in  j;-eneral 
terms  by  Vancouver  from  boat  ex[ieditioiis  undertaken  in  bad  weather.  The  atlas 
of  Tebeukolfjiives  all   the  particulars  that  can  be  ;;lcaned  froiii  the  j;eiieralitie.'-.  of 


old  naviyator.s. 


ZAIKOl-l''   IIAV. 


TcbenkolT  has  twolar;;'e  indentations  in  the  north  cud  .if  Moiilafiiic  Island; 
the  western  one  is  (!videiitl,\  unexplored,  and  the  eastern  one,  with  rocks  and  an 
islet  on  its  east  shore,  lies  abreast  and  west  of  the  entrance  to  Port  I'itches.  It 
lies  broad  open  to  north;  no  soniidin;is  are  laid  down.  Its  eastern  point  has  iiccu 
named  I'oit  Zaikotf  by  the  Coast  Survey,  and  lies  west-northwest,  six  miles  from 
the  south  jioint  of  the  entranci'  to  Port  lOtches. 

MONTAGUE   ISLAND. 


This  hxv'^v  and  liifih  island  ina\  be  said  to  lie  broad  in  I  he  enliani'e  to  Priiici- 
William  Sound,  with  passa^^es  thereto  at  the  northeast  and  southwest  extreiiiiiies 
of  the  islanil.  It  is  tbrty-livc  miles  lon^,  with  an  averajic  widihol  seven  miles, 
and  lies  northeast  by  north  and  southwest  by  south,  its  southern  point,  (Jape, 
("leare,  stretchinj;-  well  out  into  the  (iiilf  of  Alaska,  and  siiii:iled  in  latitude  ."»!to 
40',  loii;iitnde  1 18'3  01'.  The  northeastern  point  lies  abreast  of  the  «'iitiaiice  to 
I'ort  JCtehes,  about  six  miles  distant,  forming'  the  west  ])oiiit  of  the  principal 
entrance  to  the  sound,  and  throujih  which  the  currents  rush  very  stron^l.N.  liic 
currents  tliroiij;h  the  entrance  west  of  tlies>utliern  extremity  of  the  islniid  are 
re[)resetited  as  niiinin;;'  IIiiih'  and  four  knots  pi  r  hour,  and  ipiilc  ii  reuularly. 

The  immediate  shores  of  the  island  are  well  wiioded,  and  much  lower  on  the 
northwestern  side  than  on  the  eastern.  Tlie  island  is  ri-picsented  as  lii;th,  and 
Vaiicouver,  when  at  anchor  uiidur  the  western  shore  aboni  twenty  two  miles  lioiii 


KJO 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


Cape  Clcarc,  wiis  olVt'i'tiiiilly  scrccni'fl  fi'<im  a  vory  liciivy  };ale  Ity  tlio  "lofty  moun- 
tains that  coiniiosc  tlir  islancL" 

On  tin'  noilliwcst  sliorcs  aro  two  or  tlircc  ojuqi  aiicliorage^, protected  from  tbo 
lu'avy  sonllifasi  winds  l>y  Ihr  lii^ii  lands  to  tlic  eastward. 

Oil'  a  low  itrojccliir;^-  jioint,  covered  with  wood,  on  tlie  sontlie.'ist  f'aee  of  tlio 
islainl,  liftecn  miles  from  CajM'  Cleare,  lies  a  yrouj)  of  six  small  roeky  islets,  knoflii 
as  the  "NVoodfd  islands  on  tlie  Coast  Sur\-ey  eliart,  and  as  the  Little  Islands  on 
I'l'licnkolV.  They  are  composed  of  steep  elilfs,  nearly  le\el  on  tln-ir  toi)s,  and  amy 
ser\-e  as  a  <;iiide  in  thick  or  jiloomy  weather.  Tliey  an-  tolerably  well  wooded,  and 
thereby  not  lialih'  to  he  mistaken  lor  the  Chiswells,  which  ar(!  entirely  barren. 
This  is  Tebcnkoll's  ojjinion,  bnt  the  Chiswells  lie  nearly  sixty  miles  to  the  west- 
sonthwest.  In  his  nni]»,  Portloek  jdaces  a  line  of  rocks  and  soundin-is  in  fonr  to 
ei^ht  fathoms  one  mile  olV  Cape  ("leare,  desig'natinj;'  tln'm  as  "coial  I'oeks.*' 
DiNon  f;ives  a  view  of  IMontajine  Island.  Cook  nanu'd  this  island  in  177S.  The 
Indian  name  is  Tsnkli,  by  which  it  is  known  on  the  Ilnssian  charts.  Cook  passed 
onl  thi'on^h  the  channel  on  its  west  side,  and  remaiked  that  in  this  channel  are 
several  islands.  Those  that  lie  in  the  entrance,  next  tli(^  o]icn  sea,  are  hij^li  and 
rocky.  Unt  those  within  are  low  ones;  and  bein;^-  entirely  free  from  snow,  are 
coscred  with  wood  and  verdnre,  and  on  this  acconnt  were  called  (!reen  Islands. 
They  lu'  three  miles  Avest  of  the  northern  pait  of  the  island. 

CArE   CLKAIJK. 

This  is  'he  sonthern  head  of  Montajine  fsland,  bnt  no  descri|)tion  of  it  appears 
in  any  of  th  >  old  na\ij;ators.  It  is  situated  in  latitude  .'i!>^  Ui'  aecordinj;  to  Port- 
huk  ami  \'ancouver,  lou};itude  1 IS^  01'  aceordiiiR'  to  Tebenkoirs  chart ;  and 
ruitlock  lays  down  "corn!  rocks"  one  mile  otf  its  exti'omity  with  .soundinjjs  in 
four  to  eiyiit  fathoms.  From  tin.  point  Cape  I'uy'et  lies  north  ."iSo  west,  distant 
eij;hteen  mih's,  white  between  them  lie  two  larye  islands,  with  passajjes  upiui 
»'ither  side  of  them  into  Prince  William  Souml.  <^e  of  tliese  is  described  under 
the  headiuji'  of  Khlikathlik  or  liatouehe  Islan.' :  the  i)eculiarities  of  the  otheis 
art^  unknown  exeei)t  from  the  {;'i'i"'i'id  desciriuptions  of  Vancouver.  Twenty-eif;ht 
miles  south  of  Cape  Cleare  I'oitlock  fouiiii  seventy-six  fathoms  over  nuiddy  bot 
torn.  The  water  otV  the  coral  rocks  appears  to  be  of  yood  depth;  Portloek 
found  foriythice  fathoms  over  a  bottom  of  yravel,  snndl  stoiu's,  and  shells,  when 
the  cape  bore  east 'ly  north  halfnoith  six  miles,  and  deeper  water  towards  mid- 
jtassa^e  ov<'r  a  bottom  of  lund.  ;See  remaiks  on  the  entrances  to  Prince  ^^■illia^l 
Sonml.) 

Xanconxcr  anchored  umlei  the  ^ontafrne  sboie  in  t\\cnty-one  fathoms,  about 
live  miles  inside  the  si.iiiliern  \  isihle  pait  of  the  islaiid.  At  this  anciiorayc  lu' 
says  the  vessel  was  oin'  mile  lr,tm  the  nearest  shore,  which  bore  south  .""^P  east, 
(comiiass,!  whih'  lUc  sontlieiiiniost  point  bort;  south  .U)^  east  about  three  miles. 
Here  a  vcr\  heav\  swell  rolled  into  tlH>  channel  round  the  south  point  of 
Monta;;ne    Island.       lie   says   thai    between    this  anchorage  and   Point    IJasil  no 


ALASKA  COAHT  PILOT. 


i»;i 


botfom  could  bo  found  witli  sixty  to  oif,'lit.v  iatlioms  jf  line  williin  a  inilc  ol" 
Moiitii;:iie. 

Six  or  sov<'n  miles  iiisido  of  ('jii)O  Clean',  the  Kiissiaii  tharts  liavc  a  imy  two 
miles  ill  exteiil.  oi)eii  to  the  west,  but  no  sonn(lin;;s  are  indicated  ;  N'aneouNcr  lias 
the  same  indentation,  and  the  Unssians  appear  to  have  bodily  taken  his  survey 
of  this  sound  as  the  basis  of  their  ehai'ts. 

J'ifiy-tbur  miles  south  27°  east  from  Oai)o  Cleare,  Portloek  has  a  souiidiiif;-  in 
ninety-live  fathoms  ov<'r  muddy  bottom  ;  and  south  25°  west  from  this  eaite  he 
gives  one  hundred  and  ten  fathoms  over  muddy  bottom. 

From  the  eai)(>  the  eastern  of  the  Harren  Islands'  in  the  entrance,  to  Cook's 
Inlet,  is  distant  one  hundred  and  tweiity-se\en  miles  soutli  <>7°  west. 

•maci.kod  iiAunnn, 

This  bay  is  situated  on  the  nMilliMcst  shore  of  ^Nlontayfue  Island,  about  ten  or 
twelve  miles  within  tlu^  southwest  jioiiit  of  the  island,  and  nearly  abreast  of  the 
island  Latouche,  that  forms  the  west  .side  of  the  channel.  I'ortlock  says  that 
after  a  boat  examination  lie  hauled  in  for  it,  and  aiielnu'ed  in  twent.s  I'allioiiis, 
over  a  muddy  bottom.  In  runninji'  into  the  bay,  Just  olV  the  •.south  jioiiit,  the 
soundin}is  were  seven  and  ei;;(it  faihoms.  ov«'r  a  bottom  of  blacdc  mud  and  sand. 
This  liank  ai)i)eared  nearly  across  the  mouth  of  the  bay,  and,  after  passin^r  it 
the  water  deepened  to  twenty-one  fathoms;  and  with  this  depth  the  south  point 
of  the  entrance  bore  soutiiwest  by  south  about  one  and  a  half  mile;  the  north 
l>oint  bore  northwest  by  west  half  west  about  ojie  mile;  and  the  distance  frnm 
t'.ic  nearest  nortiiern  .shore  was  about  a  mile. 

His  rough  sket(!h  of  this  bay  shows  that  it  lies  about  northeast  by  east  for 
three  ami  a  half  miles,  with  irrcfjular  soundings  from  the  seven-fathom  bar  across 
the  entrance  to  twenty-two  fathoms  in  spots,  and  carrying  ten  fathoms  to  the  iiead. 
In  the  extreme  northeast  part  is  a  small  indentation,  half  a  mile  in  extent,  with 
four  and  a  half  to  six  fatiioms  water,  and  a  stream  tlows  into  the  eastern  part  of 
this  cove.  Tiie  whole  east  head  of  tlu;  harbor  is  an  extensive  Hat.  A  vessel  can 
lie  in  the  cove  in  four  and  a  half  ;■>  live  fathonj.s,  about  a  cable's  length  from 
shore,  with  the  south  jioint  of  the  Imilior  Just,  shut  in  by  the  jioiiit  forming  the 
cove.    This  point  may  be  taken  close  aboard,  as  the  water  is  (piite  bold. 

I'ortlock  .says  that  all  vessels  coming  into  this  harbor  IVom  the  south  ward  ought 
to  keep  the  shore  of  Montague  Island  as  close  aboard  as  possible,  tor  if  tliey  get 
otV  into  the  channel  and  over  toward  the  western  slnu'e  they  will  bring  sixty, 
seventy,  and  eighty  fathoms  of  water,  !ind  that  depth  too  <;lose,  inshore  for 
anchi>ring. 

The  south  point  of  the  entrance  was  named  by  i'orllcick,  roiiil  r.r\anl  ;  the 
northern,  Point  Woodcock;  their  di.stance  ai)art  about  two  miles,  bearing  noilli- 
east  by  north  and  .southwest  by  stuith. 


*  Nuliird  iit'lir  I'ortlcuk's  lirst  iiiiitf. 


>A 


K'.L' 


ALASKA  COAST  IMI.OT. 


Tlio  only  wind  to  wliicli  tliis  liny  in  cxiuiscd  is  from  tlif  soutliiS'PRt,  nnd  tlnn 
!i  vessel  niiiy  rnii  up  into  ;  In-  conc  and  imicIh)!'  in  fonr  and  a  half  fatlionis. 

'I'lic  sontli  point  of  tic  liaiUor  is  plac('d  in  latitude  ~)'.)'^  ."iS',  lon^itmle  I  17^  ."»!', 
liy  'I'elienKotf.  N'aneouvcr  placed  tlie  north  point,  whieli  he  named  Point  Itasil,  in 
latitude  •"i."^^  01',  l(ut  he  does  not  appear  to  have  had  any  olisei'vations,  as  tho 
weather  was  very  had.     (See  remarks  under  llenniu'^'  l!ay.) 

l''idm  Maeleod  Haihoi-,  in  sounding'  iieross  the  channid  towards  I.atouelio 
Island,  titty  and  sixty  fatlionis  an'  found  over  a  muddy  hotfom  soon  after  (indliufj; 
the  haihor;  no  Itottom  in  mid  <'haiinel  with  seventy  I'athonis.  Close  to  the  sluuo 
of  Latonehe  Island,  within  a  ealde's  len;;tli,  the  souiulini;s  are  from  forty  to  lifty 
fathoms,  and  these  are  carried  to  the  exlieme  north  of  the  island. 

N'ain'oux'er  says  lu'  tbund  tolerably  };dod  soundin^^s  on  the  .'\Ionla;;iM'  side  of 
the  channel  n<H  t  iiw  ard  of  I'oiid  lia/.il  or  \\'oodcock,  and  in  a  \iolent  s(piall  an- 
chored in  lifteen  falhinns  aliout  sescn  miles  northwest  of  timt  point  and  a  ndle 
fiom  shoi'c,  accord  in;;  to  his  chart.  In  tiiat  situation  lie  lays  down  a  rock  two 
niiles  to  tlie  VM'stnorth  west  ward,  and  about  six  miles  east  by  north  half  north  from 
I'oinl  (iraee,  the  northern  extremity  of  liatouche  Island. 

I'orlloek  examined  the  western  shore  of  Montaigne  northward  I'rom  ^lacleod 
harbor,  and  says  he  ibuiid  a  bold  shores  with  ancliora;;e  in  thirty  fathoms  over  a. 
muddy  bottom  about  a  mile  from  land. 

lii'tweeii  I'oiut  IJasil  and  the  southern  part  of  .^^onta.^■lle,  Vancouver  says  no 
souii(liii;;s  were  had  w  ith  sixty  and  eij;hty  fathoms  of  line  a  mile  from  shore. 

lIANMMi    1!AV. 


Northeastward  from  .\raeleod  harbor  the  shores  of  >rontasue  Island  are  bold, 
with  soundings  of  thirty  liilhonis  over  a  muddy  bottom,  about  a  mile  from  land. 
About  ti\('  leaj^nes  tVom  Macleod  I  larlxtr,  I'ortloek  says  he  came  to  a  deep  wiih^ 
bay.  where  vessels  may  safely  ride  at  anchor  in  from  twenty  to  ten  fathoms,  muddy 
bottom.  With  ten  fathoms  the  ancliora.ue  is  near  the  bottom  of  the  bay,  and 
about  half  a  mile  from  shore,  but  the  best  auchora.u'e  seems  to  be  nearest  tins 
siMith  side,  and  no  nearer  the  shore  than  in  from  leu  to  twelve  fathoms  water.  A 
fresh-water  stream  enters  into  the  sontii  jiai!  of  the  bay,  where  INutlock  drew  his 
seines,  and  in  one  title  eau^iiit  a  quant ily  of  salmon  siitlicient  to  load  two  boats. 

In  the  above  position  this  bay  has  no  existenei' in  Vancouver  or  Tebenkotf 
eliarts;  and  in  I'ortloek  there  is  only  a  broad  indentation  of  the  shore.  15ut  in 
jiis  i^'eneial  chart  INutiock  places  llanninn'  I>ay  live  miles  northeastward  of 
]\IaeIeod  Harbor  and  about  liltceii  from  Cape  Cleare.  \'anconver  says  that 
■Whidbcv  visited  llanninu  I'.ay  and  Alacleod  Harbor,  and  '■  represented  them  as 
\ery  inucli  exposed;  constilutiii.u'.  in  fact,  nothin.u'  more  than  slopping'  places  in 
navi^iatinu  this  channel.  The  points  of  both  oii^ht  not  to  be  approachod  too  near, 
as  liirkiiii;'  rocks  are  situated  at  some  distance  frfun  them."' 


This  bay  was  nanied 
Sound  Company. 


I'ortloek  alter  one  of 


the. 


illiceis  of  the  Ixiu^i'  (icor^o's 


AF-ASKA  COAST  VllAYV. 


103 


ClUKKX  ISLKS. 

Tlii'v  lie  four  miles  wcstwiiid  ol'  tlii' iimtlioni  i);irl  nf  Muiitii.i;iH'  In1:ui(I,  jiid 
tlio  soundings  in  tlic  cli.-iiiiifi  to  tlir  sou  ml  \  ;ii\  IVoni  lliiit.v-li\<'  lo  twenty  fiitliiuus, 
until  nciiiin;;'  the  ( liccn  Isles,  Nvhcn  tlu'  wuter  sliouls.  iind  t'i('<|U('ntl.\  sexcn  uml 
t'iiilit  were  found  liv  i'oitlock,  with  rock,\  iMul  slnll  hotloni.  Patches  ol' kelp  were 
iiiiiuerous  near  the  shoal  s(Miiidin;;s. 

A  line  of  rocks  <'.\teiids  from  the  norlh  jioiiit  of  thedicen  Isles  to  a  small 
ishiml  aliout  six  miles  norlli  of  it  ;  luil  it  is  not  known  wlielhei'  it  is  a  continuous 
reef,  alt hon^li  I'ortloek's  liack  would  indicate  a  passaj^e  thiou^h  it.  Another  lini^ 
ami  ail  islet  extends  five  miles  south  of  the  southern  extremity  of  the  islaml; 
while  a  patch,  with  one  aliovc;  water,  is  laid  down  two  miles  southwest  from  tho 
southern  part  of  the(!reen  Isles, 

The  indications  of  rocks  aliout  the  (li'con  Isles  are  so  nunu-rous,  from  the 
short  ex])erience  of  Coolc,  I'ortloek,  Dixon,  X'ancctuN  er,  and  others,  that  it  is 
advisalile  to  W(uk  on  the  .Montague  side  of  the  channel,  within  a  dislaiu'c  of  lliiec 
or  four  miles  from  the  shore  south  of  I'ort  Chalmers. 

Vancouver  lays  ilown  the  Cireen  Isles  as  one;  I'ortloek  makes  three,  ly in;,' 
parallel  with  the  west  coast  of  .Monta.i^iie  Island. 

('UAl:mhi;s  u.vv. 


On  the  northwest  shore  of  IVronta.nue  Island,  eiiilit  miles  from  the  mufh  point. 
I<,"tweeu  three  and  four  miles  southeast  of  the  e;isternmosl  point  of  the  (Ircen 
Isles,  ami  the  same  distance  east  of  the  '' l(u;;';:;('(l  Itock,"  lyin;;'  in  the  passaf;(i 
lU'ar  the  shores  of  the  (Ireeii  Isles,  lies  this  port,  broad  open  to  the  northwest. 
TIk'  shore  of  Mimtaji'ue  Island  is  here  broken  liyse\i'rai  points  and  marked  iiy 
islets  ami  rocks.  I'ortloek  applied  the  nanu'  Clialmers  llarlKU-  to  a  rcsiiicicd 
part  of  this  broken  shore,  and  Vaiu'ouver  to  the  same  part,  with  the  addition  of 
another  bay  to  the  southwest,  ajiplied  the  term  I'oit  Chahuers.  The  proper 
desi;;nation  should  ho  Chalmers  liay,  and  this  would  lie  east  of  the  northeast  and 
southwest  ]ioints.  which  are  laid  down  ti\e  miles  north  l.'S''  east  and  south  L'S^ 
west  of  each  other.  The  northeast  iioint,  named  Stocl^dale  roini  by  the  (Oast 
Survey,  woidd  lie,  accordin.u'  to  A'ancouver's  skel<'h,  three  ami  a  half  miles  noitli 
TS"^  east   from  the  easlernmost  jioint  of  the  (Ireen    Isles:  and  the  southwest  point 

I'oni- miles  south  1(1°  east  from  the  same,      l-'roni  the  line  JoiniiiL;  the  mull st  and 

southwest  iioints  of  th.e  bay,  the  Chalmers  Harbor  of  I'ortloek  lies  two  ami  a  half 
miles  to  the  eastward,  and  nearly  midway  between  tin  in.  The  apjuoaehes  to  this 
harbor  are  marke<I  by  numerous  (laii;j;'ers  and  it  is  ad\  isable  to  apiu'oach  it  at  low- 
tide  if  praetu'able.  Three  (piaiters  of  a  mile  west-southwest  iVom  the  math  point 
lies  the  North  I'assa;;('  Koek  of  \'aneon\er,  coxcied  at  hii;li  watei'.  with  tivo  t'o  leu 
fathoms  dose  to  it  on  the  north.  «  est,  ami  south  sides,  but  a  \fi'\'  one  ipiartei'  of  a 
mile  east  of  it  close  to  the  point,  between  it  and  the  aboNC  lock,  Xaneouvej-  ;:i'i<'S 
four  to  ten  fatliouis.     Fioni  Xorlh  l'assa;;i'  IJoek  the  muth  jioint  of  Chalmers  liar- 


1(54 


ALASKA  COAST  I'lLOT. 


lini  l>c;iis  HKiitli  20'^  Piist.  two  !iii(l  a  liiilf  miles  (li.stiiiit,  with  a  broad  slioal  ott'  tlio 
piiiiit  lur  11  (inaitcr  of  ii  mile.  I'lic  hot  (lircctioiis  (o  rciicli  tin-  liarltor  IVoiii  llio 
iioi'tli  would    he   to  niii   from  tin;    oiitsidf  of  tiif  Noitli  i'assa;,'!'  Uork   to    i'oiiif 

(ill If,  till-  iiorlli  point  of  tilt',  liarbor,  pass  tlic  point  altovc  a  tliiiil  of  a  mile  west 

of  it,  anil  wlifii  its  soutli  tan^'cnt  iicars  cast  inn  tor  it,  carrvin;;-  ten  futUoms  close 

to  it. 

If  eoiniii;?  from  tlie  sontliwanl,  run  np  nnder  tlie  Montafrne  shore  until  the 
Konth  jioiiit  of  (ireeii  Isles  Iicars  south  of  west,  then  keep  towards  the  western 
shore,  lint  on  the  east  side  of  '•  Unji^'ed  Kock,"  l.viii;,'  aliont  three  miles  southwest 
by  soiilli  three  ipiarters  south  from  the  eastciniiiost  jioint  of  (!reen  Isles.  .Mid- 
passaj;!'  lietween  this  *'  Iiiik;;('(I  Rock"  and  the  east  shore  lie  two  dan;;('idus  .sunken 
rocks.  Vancouver  beat  northward  between  these  rocks  luid  •' Itii^jf^ed  Koelc" 
with  twenty  fathoms,  and  Whidliy  beat  between  them  and  Moiitaj^ue  Island  witli 
ei^ht  to  til'teeu  fathoms.  These  rocks  lie  aliont  northeast  half  north  and  south- 
west half  south  three  (piarters  of  a  mih>  from  each  other;  the  southern  bcariiif^ 
Boiitli  (iS^  east,  one-half  mile  from  "  I{u;.;Hi('d  Uock  ;"  thi'  northern  one  east,  one 
and  three-ipiarters  miles  from  "  Uuj;;;('d  itock."  Vancouver  says:  '<  We  smhleidy 
caiue,  upon  the  .soiitheriinu)st  of  tlieso  rocks  in  a  depth  of  nineteen  to  .si.v  fathoms, 
without  any  ke1[i  or  otlu-r  indications  of  shoal  water;  on  the  northern  one,  whicdi 
shoah'd  eipially  quit'k,  there  was  a  small  patch  of  kelp  t^rowiiiy  in  throe  fathom.s, 
w  itli  live  to  seven  fathoms  clo.so  around.  Each  of  the.se  appeared  to  occupy  no 
greater  exteut  than  the  sliiii's  leuyth  in  any  direction." 

The  south  point  of  Ohalmers  Hay  bears  west  by  south  tlireequartors  .south 
nearly  three  miles  from  "  Hujjfi'ed  lioek,"  lint  Vancouver  lays  slaial  Ki'ound  half  a 
mile  otV  the  point  to  the  northwest,  although  tin;  .soundiiijis  a  mile  .south westward 
of  it  are  thirteen  one-third  of  a  mile  oft"  shore.  ]S'<i  soundinjj;s  are  laid  down 
for  any  other  approach  than  by  the  uorth  pas.sage,  althoagh  the  indications  look 
favorable.  Two  lar^e  islets  lie  nortlu>ast  of  the  south  luiint,  stretchinj;"  towards  a 
"woody  islet"  from  which  the  kication  of  the  other  dangers  may  be  determined  in 
ap[iroachiug  the  harbor.  This  "  WaotJy  Islel"  lies  three  miles  south  of  the  North 
I'assage  Kock,  and  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  eastern  .shore,  with  flfteeii 
fatlnims  water  between  it  and  the  southern  and  eastern  shore.  A  "detached 
rock"  lit.'s  a  ((uarter  of  a  mile  southeast  of  Woody  Islet.  A.  patch  of  rocks  lies 
between  this  detacshed  rock  and  I'oint  (lilmour,  about  one-third  of  a  mile  from 
the  rock;  a  .second  patch  lies  half  a  mile  northeast  by  north  from  Woody  Islet ; 
a  third  patch  half  a  mile  uorth  of  Woody  Islet.  A  depth  of  six  or  .seven  fathoms 
lies  between  these  iiat<dies  and  the  islet,  with  four  fathoms  clo.se  to  the  latter. 
If  the    jiassiige  is  clear   to   the   west  of  Woody   Islel,   then   a   vessel    may  enter 


1. 


nniuu^'   <losc  alon;^-  the  north   side  o 


\\: 


(Iv   Islet   l<iwards   I'oint   (iiliiiour 


on  a  northea.st  by  ea.st  cour.se;  this  will  carry  her  midway  between  the  first  and 
secoml  piilches  of  rocks,  and  when  half-w.iy  lietwciMi  the  isl(>t  and  ]iiiint,  run  east 
under  the  south  side  of  the  point,  'i'hreeipiarlers  of  a  mile  north  I.-p  west  from 
Woody  Islel  is  the /S'u«//t  i'«»««//(' AVA' of  Vancouver ;  it  covers  at  high  water,  and 


ALASKA  COAST  riLOT. 


1G5 


i 


liiiH  tlii'cc  fiitlioins  closo  to  if.  Il  lies  ii  litllt-  over  mic  mile  west  o!'  I'oiiil  (liliiioiir; 
if  il  is  visiltic,  inn  for  I'niiil  (iiiiiiniir  in  i'i;;lil  nml  ten  I'liilinins,  IcMviii;.'  ijiis  rork 
nut  ii\('iii  (inaitcr  (il'ii  iiiilf  sonlli  ol'  lliccdiiisf,  iind  llins  iiMijdin;;'  IHxrin-itii  li'mh, 
on  Mliicli  N'iincoiivcr'.s  vrssrl  <;n>iinil(Ml.  'I'liis  mrk  lirs  norlli  (P  t'list,  <tiic  iiiil(> 
tViini  W'uddv  Islet,  1111(1  niiitli  Tl"^  west,  one  iiiilc  tVoin  I'oinl  (iiliimnr.  Il  lias  tni 
ratliitins  cldsc  ai'diinil  it,  anil  was  not  iiiarUcd  li\  kelp;  it  lias  less  than  Iwti 
tatlidiiis  iipdii  it:  at  low  \val<T  tiit;  xi-sscl  liad  two  t'allidiiis  at  Imt  hows,  liv(t 
latlKMiis  at  liiT  main  cliains,  and  seven  latlidins  astern.  .\  rdiiilli  I'dei.  was  dis- 
eovered  lialf  a  mile  iiditliward  ol'  the  latter,  with  seveiiti'eii  t'athdiiis  between 
them;  it  lies  on*'  mile  iidrlli  IVdiii  Woody  Islet,  diie  and  a  liall' niil(<  iiditli  ■'id'-' 
Mcst  from  Point  (iiliiidiir.  and  diie  and  a  lialf  mile  SdMlii  iVdiii  the  North  I'assa;;*; 
lioek  oil'  south  point  of  Stoekdale  Ihiy.  II  ha.s  sexi-n  fathoms  close  to  it.  ami 
seventeen  fathoms  between  it  and  Xoith  I'assa^re  Uoek.  It  ha.s  four  fathoms  upon 
it  at  two-thirds  Hood  tide,  with  seven  fathdins  eidse  td  it. 

It  will  be  .'■eeii  fidiii  the  fdre.i,n)in^  descriptidii  that  four  rocks  lie  nearly  in 
line  iiditliward  of  Woody  Islet  and  towards  North  l'assa;;('  Itoek  ;  to  the  westward 
of  this  line  the  cnnents  tliron;ih  the  passa;,'e  run  three  miles  per  hour,  and  in 
about  mid-passaj^e  X'aiicdiucr  fdiiml  eighteen  fathdins. 

The.  aiieliorafio  of  Chalmer's  Jlarbor  may  be  described  as  follows,  following 
Yaneoiiver's  sketch  insteatl  of  I'ditlock's:  It  lies  between  Point  (iiliiidiiioii  the 
iiditli,  and  Wilby  Island  (iiie  mile  to  the  south  of  it,  with  twenty oiie  falhoms 
mnddy  but tdiii  between  them.  The  fdiiiier  lies  a  little  over  a  mile  iiditheast  by 
east  from  AVoody  Islet;  the  latter  one  mile  east  by  south  from  Wodd.N'  Islet. 
I'rom  this  entrance  the  bay  stretches  one  and  a  half  mile  east  northeast,  diminish- 
inj;'  K'rii"li'ii",v  i"  breadth,  and  liaxiii;;'  rocks  and  a  broad  stri))  of  shoal  water  on 
tlu^  south.  About  half  a  mile  eastward  of  Point  Gilmonr  a  narrow  low  point 
makes  southward  a  (|naiter  of  a  mile  from  the  sonlh  shore  and  I'drins  a  "land- 
locked cove"  to  the  eastwai'd  of  it  half  a  mile  .s<iuare  in  extent,  "with  capital 
aiicliora.ifc  in  seven  fathoms  over  muddy  bottom."  Vancouver  anchored  about  a 
(piaiter  of  a  mile  east  of  this  small  low  point,  upon  which  he  made  his  oliserva- 
tions.  I''dr  future  referem  e.  and  to  mark  a  peculiar  fcatiirc  <'diiiiec|ed  with  this 
point,  it  has  been  named  by  the  Coast  Survey  "Siiikin;n'  Point." 

Vancouver  says  of  this  inner  anchorage,  that  it  can  "only  be  considered  a 
small  cove  in  a  riij;';ued^  rocky  coast,  very  dilliciilt  of  ac<'css  or  e^ri'ss."  Puitlock 
removed  the  stones  from  the  beach,  then  beached  and  (leaned  both  his  ships,      lie, 

says  that  it  Wdiild  not  be  iniideiit  for  any  xcssel  to  run  in  iiurlli  i)\'  W Is   Islet  in 

thick  weather,  but  when  the  weather  is  clear  il  is  tolerably  safe,  witli  a  ;.;d(Hl  look 
out,  the  lead  $'.'oin^',  ami  keeping'  nearly  in  midchannel. 

(Jiie  mile  smithwest  (ptarter  south  from  Woody  Islet  lies  Ihe  iMiitiieiiimost 
of  two  lar^'c  islets,  riinnin;;'  northeast  from  tiie  south  point  of  the  bay,  and  Ihe 
space  between  them  and  the  east<'rn  shore,  three  (piaiters  of  a  mile  <li>lant, 
ap|(ears  a  better  teiiiporaiy  aneJidiaL;!'  than  ('haliiieis  Harbor.  'I'lie  ><)niidiii;:s 
ajipear  unifdrm  at  tllteeii  fatlidins,  ;;radually  decrcasin^t  one  third  of  a  mile  li'diii 


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ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


tlio  sontlioast  slioro,  to  wliicli  tliico  fatlioins  ciiii  be  (lanicd  Avithin  a,  quartor  of  a, 
iiiilc.  Soiitlnvanl  aii:l  westward  of  tlie  soutlicin  island  a  ilecp  co .c  tMitcrs,  witli 
slioal  water;  Itut  a  vessel  may  lie  in  eiylit  fatliom.s  elose  under  tlie  eastern  shore 
with  tiu^  south  island  bearinjj;  northwest  by  west,  and  Woody  Island  a  litthi  west 
of  north;  this  South  Core  would  then  be  open  to  the  n(»rthwest,  but  no  soundiuys 
are  fjiven  westward  or  norlhwestward  of  tlu!  south  island. 

TIu^  f^eoKrajthieal  i)osition  of  "Sinkin;;'  Point"  where  it  Joins  the  main  shore 
was  deti'rinineil  by  A''anei)uver,  latitiule  (!()^  Hi',  longitude  from  Tebenkotrs  ehart 
117°  -M'.  In  June,  17!»t,  Vancouver  found  tiie  nian'iietie-  variation  I'S'^  .'io'  ciist. 
From  his  sketcii  IViint  (lllmour  is  in  latitude  (i(P  Hi';  Torllock  plaeed  it  in  C.'  17'; 
the  north  point  of  the  bay  is  ii;  latitude  (i(P  ISA';  the  south  point  (ilP  Ui'. 
While  anehtucd  there,  from  May  iMi  to  .Juno  10,  he  (tbserved  a  considerable 
dilferenee  between  the  ni<,'ht  and  day  tides;  the  former,  duriuH;  the  springs,  rose 
thirteen  feet  foin- iiu-hes;  whereas  the  latter  did  not  rise  nune  than  twelve  feet 
one  iiu'h ;  and  it  was  high  water  about  an  hour  after  the  nu)on  had  passed  the 
meridian. 

After  Van(!ouver  got  his  ship  off  Discovery  Hock  lie  anchored  half  a  mile 
west-north  west  from  it  in  twenty-one  fathoms  over  mmldy  bottom,  with  Woody 
Islet  i)eariug  south  by  east  one  and  three-fourths  of  a  mile,  I'oint  (iilmonr  south 
.'•1°  east  one  ami  Ihrce-fouths  of  a  mile,  and  the  north  point  of  tiie  bay  iLortheast 
three-(piarters  nortli  one  and  tliree-fourlhs  of  a  mile.  In  this  jtosition  a  "few 
cod  ami  halibut  were  take  i  ibiring  the  night."  Vancouver  has  a  sketch  of  this 
harbor;  I'ortlock  has  an  inferior  oiu'. 

Vancouvei'  says  that  about  ('liabnei's  T>ay  the  country,  as  high  up  the  si<les 
of  the  mountain  as  vegetation  extends,  was  in  most  places  free  from  snow  before 
.Iun(>  HI.  l''rom  its  diveisity  in  surface,  and  spaces  clear  of  trees,  it  jiresenled  a 
very  pleasing  verdant  ai)pearance,  but  these  clear  jdaces  were  a  iierfect  sphaguous 
nn)iass,  frecpiently  composing  the  sides  of  hills.  The  trees  weic  not  large.  "The 
shores  are  in  general  low,  and  the  s(m  appears  to  be  making  rapid  encroaclnnents 
ui»on  them.  Many  tices  had  been  cut  down  siiu'O  these  regiims  had  been  visited 
by  Europeans;  this  was  evident  by  the  \  Islhle  cIVects  ol  the  axe  and  saw,  which 
we  concluded  had  been  produced  whilst  I'cntlock  and  Dixon  were  here  seven 
years  before,*  as  the  stumps  of  the  tret's  are  still  remaining  on  thi'  earth  where 
they  had  originally  grown,  but  were  iu)w  many  fct  below  high-wat«'r  mark,  even 
of  neap  tides.  The  narrow,  low,  projecting  point  (named  Siidiing  I'oint)  had  not 
long  since  alVorded  support  to  some  of  the  largest  i)im'  trees  in  the  neighborhood, 
but  it  was  now  overtlowed  b\  every  tide;  and  excepting  two  <if  the  trees,  which 
still  put  forth  a  few  leaves,  the  whole  were  reduced  to  naked,  dead,  white  stumi)s, 
by  the  encroaclnnent  ol'  the  sea  water  to  their  roots;  iind  some  stum])s  of  trees, 
with  their  roots  still  fast  in  the  grouml,  were  also  found  In  no  very  advanced  state 
ofdecax  m-arly  as  low  down  as  the  low  water  of  spring  lides.'' 

N.il    iiii|irc)liiili|,\   llwWdiU   111    (lir   i;iis.si;oi>,  \\  liii   iMiill    .s|ij|i«  in  ( ■|iil;;iii'li  Siiiiiicl    liiiij;  lirlcm! 


■i 


ALASKA  COA.ST  PILOT. 


1(57 


Stochhdc  JfitrJmr,  of  rortlock,  lies  imiiuMli;it«'l.v  iiordi  of  Clialiiicrs  ISitv ; 
Vaiiconvor  says  it  is  "only  a  bay  lull  ol"  rocks,  and  not  woitliy  of  any  particular 
examination."  . 

Vancouver  says  tliat  ofl"  tlu^  northwest  i)()int  of  Alontn^'ie  Island  a  Icd^'e  of 
rocks  extends  half  a  mile;  but  at  half  a  leaj^ne  from  the  jioinf  he  found  sixty  live 
fathoms  over  muddy  bottom;  in  his  chart  lie  phices  (ifty-seven  fathoms  two  miles 
west  of  that  point. 

LATOUOIIE  OU  FOOT  ISLAND. 

On  tlie  west  side  of  I^IontajLtue  Island,  abreast  of  Port  Macleod,  lies  tlu»  island 
Kldikakhlik,*  or  Latouche,  of  wjiicli  the  southernmost  point,  or  rallu-r  the  islauti 
off  it,  bears  northwest  three-<piarters  north  ten  or  twelve  miles  from  (Jape  Clcare. 
The  channel  on  tlie  west  side  of  this  islan'l  was  partially  examined  by  .Sar,\  tdief 
in  IT'.IO.  Oil'  the  sonthern  extremily  of  the  island  lies  a  motlciatcly  hi;;h  islet 
about  a  mile  Ion;;' northnortheasf  and  sonth-soutliwest,  with  a  mile-wide  pasHa}j;(» 
between  it  and  the  south  i)oint  of  tiie  island,  but  obstriu'ted  by  a  shoal  in  ihv. 
jniddle.  About  tiiree  niiles  south  by  east  i'rom  this  small  island  Portlock  had 
sonn<linj;s  in  sixty-'hree  fatlioms  over  a  muddy  bottom.  Itetwecu  tiiis  small 
island  ami  the  shores  of  the  island  to  the  westward  the  entrance  is  four  miles 
wide,  but  an  unobstructed  channel  with  twenty  live  fathoms  tlepth  lies  under  the 
western  shore.  From  the  soutii  end  of  the  small  island  there  lies  a  shoal  at  half 
a  mile  M-est,  then  a  hitjh  s(tlitary  rock  at  one  mile  west  ;  and,  linally,  a  shoal 
stretching;  its  western  pi>int  to  a  distance  t»f  two  miles  west  I'rom  the  southern 
point  of  the  island. 

The  jfcneral  direction  of  the  i)assatfe  west  of  the  Kldikakhlik  Island  is  north- 
east by  nortii  for  ten  or  twelve  miles,  dccreasln^i'  from  four  to  two  miles  in  width  ; 
a  few  soundinys  indicatinji  a  general  mid  passay,('  (h'ptli  of  thirty-live  and  forty 
fathoms.  At  five  and  seven  miles  from  the  southern  enfiance  arc  two  small 
islands  (m  tlu'  <>astcrn  side  of  nud-pi>ssa;;e.  .Vnchora}?e  is  laid  down  at  the  south 
entrance  of  this  passa;;!'  in  lifteeu  fathoms  under  the  western  shore  when  the 
north  end  ol  the  small  island  iiears  east  soutJU'ast  ;  also  under  the  eastern  shore, 
close  to  the  soiilliwest  poiid,  of  Kldikakhlik  Island,  whicli  bears  south  fii»m  the 
anchoras')' ;  no  depth  is  noted.  The  latitude  of  tiiis  ixiini  was  determined  by 
Harytchef  as  5!P  .")(»',  and  Tcitenkolf  f^ives  the  lon;;itude  IIS^  1  P.  Two  or  three 
coves  are  noted  on  the  easlci'ii  side  of  the  jjassa^jc,  and  anchoi'aye  learkctl  in 
the  cove  cast  of  the  second  islet  inside  in  the  passa;j;e;  no  soundings  are  noted. 
A  sm:  M  stream  empties  into  the  eastern  part  of  the  cove.  On  the  western  slnne 
of  the  ]>assajj;e,  abreast  this  cove,  is  the  entrance  to  a  lai]ne  bay  oi-  |iassa;;c,  with 
numerous  islands  therein.  The  ]iassa;4'e  t(»  the  north  of  them  has  lil'Icen  to 
twenty  fatlioms;  and  the  lirst  cov.  to  tht>  northeastward,  al)oiit  a  mile  inside,  has 
ten  and  six  fatli  iins  laid  down. 

Aloii;;  the  northwestern  side  of  Kldikakhlik    IslamI,  and  either  tlirou;;li  its 


"Xlllllcll   I'lKil   1m1:iiiiI  liV   I'cililriiU:    l.;ll(illrllr  ll\    VullliillMr. 


108 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


western  i>as.snf,'c  or  HiioukIi  the  second  one  west,  II  lyward  (of  I'ortloek's  ves- 
sel) inale  his  i)assages  from  Port  I-ltches  to  Cook's  Inlet,  and  named  it  I'lince  of 
AVales  I'assaf^e. 

The  north  point  of  Khlikakhlik  Island  was  named  Point  Grace  by  Van- 
couver. 

rOIXT  KLUrNGTON.* 

This  is  the  sonthern  extremity  of  the  middle  of  the  three  islands  lying 
between  Cape  Cleare  and  Ca|)e  Pu;>et ;  from  the  former  it  is  laid  down  northwest 
three-(|narters  west  fourteen  or  fifteen  miles,  and  from  the  latter,  east  about  four 
miles.  It  also  forms  th(>  eastern  jtoint  of  the  entrance  to  Port  Uainbridge,* 
from  which  two  i)assages  lead  into  Prince  William  Sound.  Vancouver  describes 
it  IS  a  hinh,  steep,  barren  promontory,  of  small  extent,  connected  to  the  south 
end  of  the  island  by  a  narrow  isthmus,  and  formin;;'  the  "  southwesterumost  part 
of  the  hijrh,  rnHf>ed  cluster  of  islands  lyiny  live  miles  cast  of  it."  This  cluster  is 
Latonehe  Islaiul. 

POINT  PYKE.* 

North  of  Point  T'jlrington  about  live  or  six  miles  is  the  south  point  of  an 
unnamed  island.  It  is  bold  and  rocky,  with  a  number  of  islets  lying  oil"  it,  and 
was  nanu'd  by  Vancouver,  who  statcis  that  it  is  remarkable  for  its  sugar-loaf  form. 
To  the  north  of  Point  Pyke  is  a  "tolerably  well  sheltered  bay,  surrounded  on  all 
sides  by  lofty,  abrupt,  snowy  mountains."  To  the  north  of  this  there  is  a  second 
bay,  and  als(»  a  murow  opening  ten  miles  long  to  the  northeast,  leading  to  Prince 
"William  Sound.  , 

rOIJT  I5AIX1JKIDGE.*         , 

This  arm  of  the  sea  has  its  southern  opening,  three  miles  wide,  between 
Point  Klrington  <in  the  east  and  Cape  Puget  on  the  west,  aiul  stretches  in  ii 
directly  north  course  tor  eighteen  or  nineteen  miles,  with  an  average  width  of 
two  miles.  Iimiiediately  inside  the  enti.ince  on  the  eastern  side,  three  miles 
north  of  Point  Klrington,  is  Prince  of  Wales  Passage,  leading  northeast  to  the 
north  point  of  Liitouclie  Island  ;  about  the  southeast  entrance  to  this  passage  are 
"many  rocks  about  the  shores  just  above  Avater,"  and  several  islets  laid  down  in 
mid-i>assage,  but  the  western  shore  i'.  compact,  altlDugh  inchMitcd  by  coves. 
Point  I'yke  has  been  described.  Ten  i  lies  north  of  I'oint  EIringtoii,  on  the  east- 
ern side  of  the  i>ort,  is  the  nariow  ojjejiing  of  a  passage;  leading  eleven  miles 
north  ."iOO  east  into  Prince  William  Sound.  This  passage  is  sonu'thing  less  than 
a  mile  wide;  tlier(>  are  several  snnk(Mi  rocks  in  it,  and  the  shori's  are  eomi)osed  of 
stc(>p,  rocky  mountiiiiis.  The  noithwesi  jxiint  of  the  north  entrance  of  this  pas- 
sage was  named  I'oint  Countess  by  Vancouver,  and  jtlaced  in  hititude  (UP  l.'V. 
TebenkotV  jilaccs  the  longitude  in  HS^  IL".     Pive  niilf>s  northwest  of  Point  Coun- 


'  Nioiu'd  by  Vsoifouvor,  1701. 


ALASKA  'JOAST  PILOT. 


IGO 


tess  lies  the  mo  ath  of  Icy  Bay,  to  btOierciiftor  referred  to.  The  north  jwiiit  of 
tlie  south  entrance  to  thi:<  passage  was  natned  Point  Waters  by  Vancouver,  and 
marked  by  "some  rocks  and  breakers  before  it."  Ten  mih's  nortii  15°  west 
from  Point  Waters  lies  the  head  of  tlie  port,  "  with  a  small  tract  of  lowland,  ott" 
wliicli,  as  well  as  off  its  western  i.hore,  lie  sonu*  rocks  and  rocky  islets,  upon 
which,  althoufjh  cightiHMi  miles  from  the  entrance,  the  sea  broke  with  such  vio 
lence  as  rendered  hiudinjj:  daufjerous."  The  latitude  of  the  head  of  this  port  is 
pla<!ed  by  Vancouver  in  (i()o  13^'. 

About  two  miles  ncntheast  from  the  head  of  Port  I5ainbrid}ie  Vancouver 
places  the  head  of  Icy  Bay,  which  lies  about  titur  and  oiuvhalf  miles  east  and 
west,  with  a  width  of  two  miles.  This  bay  "  terminate.^  in  a  compact  body  of  ice 
that  descends  from  hiffh,  perpendicular  cliffs  to  the  water  side,  ami  surrounded 
by  a  country  composed  of  stupendous  lofty  mountains  covered  with  snow,"  (June.) 

CAPE  VUGET.* 

This  cape,  forming  the  Avestern  point  of  the  entrance  to  Port  Baiubridge,  and 
the  extreme  southwestern  point  of  Prince  William  Sound,  is  laid  down  by  Vancou- 
ver north  03°  west,  nineteen  miles  from  (Jape  Cleare;  and  by  Tebenkoff  north  (JlP 
west,  nineteen  miles.  Vancouver  pliwied  it  in  oiP  5iV,  jvnd  Tebenkoff  gives  the 
longitude  148°  3.'i'.  No  description  of  this  cai)e  api)eai',s  among  the  old  naviga- 
tors, but  Tebenkoflf's  map  represents  it  as  a  bold,  hig'i  rocky  head,  with  a  face 
1.W0  miles  long  to  the  southeast,  having  a  line  of  rocks  in  front,  with  an  islet  off" 
the  northeastern  termination. 

There  is  a  glacier  at  the  head  of  the  bay  just  west;  and  in  the  second  bay, 
seven  miles  westward,  a  large  gla(;ier  conies  down  into  the  ocean,  and  is  reiire- 
sented  by  the  Russian  navigators  as  a  very  beautiful  and  grand  object,  when  seen 
in  a  clear  day. 

From  Cape  Puget  the  general  trend  of  the  coast  forming  the  southeast  shore 
of  the  Kenai  Peninsula  is  south  02°  west  for  one  hundred  and  ten  miles  to  the 
Tschugatz  Island,  forming  Cape  Elizabeth,  ut  the  entrauje  to  Cook's  Inlet. 

KENAI  PENINSULA. 

The  eastern  shores  of  Prince  William  Sound  form  the  northeast  pait  of  the 
peninsula  of  Kenai,  and  its  outer  or  Alaska  gulf  sho"e  commences  with  Cajm 
Pnget  and  terminates  at  Cape  Elizabetii.  The  western  shore  of  the  peninsula  is 
formed  by  Cook's  Inlet. 

From  Cape  Puget  to  Cajie  Elizabeth  the  shores  are  said  by  Tebenkoff  to  have 
been  very  well  explored  by  the  liussian  navigators,  s(!arching  for  good  harhors 
and  shelter  for  the  Russian  whalers.  Tlu'ir  reports  show  that  the  line  of  coast  is 
broken  by  bays  and  coves,  but  none  (dlcring  good  anchorage,  there  iieiitg  very 
close  ti>  the  shores  not  less  than  thirty  to  fifty  fathoms  of  wati'r.    Tlie  coast  is 


22 


■  Named  liy  Vancouver,  17i)4. 


170 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


very  rocky,  and  stco])  anil  niountainnns,  yet  covcnil  with  wood,  wliiU>  tlic  ravinos 
and  f,'(»r^('s  l><'tw<'«ii  the  nionntains  contain  in  many  i)laccs  ^^lacicrs  wliicli  stretch 
l»a(  k  from  tlie  hcad.s  of  the  bays  cvi-n  to  tho  ;,'orgcs  descending  towards  ('ook's 
Inh-t. 

From  the  isthnnis  lictwccn  Passage  ChaniH'l  in  the  northwcsf  ])art  of  Prlnco 
AViliiani  Sonnd  and  Tiirnagain  Arm  in  the  northeast  i)art  of  (look's  Ldct,  tho 
]tcninsnhi  is  one  hundred  and  thirty  mih'S  h)ng  to  Cape  Elizabeth.  Tlie  eastern 
part  is  traversed  by  a  range  of  high,  snow-clad  mountains  whose  general  direction 
is  sontiiwest  by  west  and  nortlicast  by  east,  and  which  seems  to  Ix^  prolonged  l)y 
the  Uarrcn  Islands  an?I  the  Kadiak  (iroup.  On  tlie  western  flaidv  of  this  range 
are  great  lakes  fed  by  the  waters  of  melting  glaciers,  and  sui»i)]ying  streams 
emptying  into  Cook's  Inlet.  Across  this  range  the  Indians  sonu'times  make  win- 
ter Journeys  between  Cook's  Inlet  and  Kesurrection  15ay.  • 

day's  iiakuok. 

Tliis  liarbvir  is  laid  down  on  TebenkoH'  about  fifteen  miles  west  from  Cai)0 
Puget.  Tiie  bay  opens  <lireetly  to  tlu!  soiitli,  and  iidand  northward  five  miles, 
with  a  short  arm  to  the  northeast.  Tlu'  eastern  jioint  is  bold  and  rocky,  and  tho 
south  and  western  jtoint  is  the  extremity  of  tiu'  peninsula  forming  the  western 
shores  of  this  bay  and  the  eastern  shores  of  Itesurrcction  Kay.  It  was  mimed  by 
Portlock  in  17.S(i,  and  lln'  eastern  point  called  Point  Ilarman.  Prom  Point  IJesur- 
rection  tlie  east  jioint  of  the  entrance  of  Day's  Harbor  lies  northnortheast  for 
Sloven  or  eight  miles.  Point  K'l  siirrection  is  laid  down  in  latitude  0!)°  51'..">,  longi- 
tude 1 1'.io  \',VA,  ae<'oiding  to  ArchimandritotV. 

It  is  not  described  by  Portlock,  but  was  doubtless  visited  by  his  longboat  oil 
her  trading  trips  from  Prince  AVilliani  Hound  to  Cook's  Inlet. 

.      KKSI'UUKCTION  BAY. 

The  southeast  ]>oint  of  this  extensive  arm  of  the  sea,  from  tilteen  to  twenty 
miles  long  and  six  to  three  miles  witle,  lies  twenty  miles  west  by  south  of  Capo 
Puget,  thirty-seven  miles  west  three  (piarters  north  from  Cai>e  Cleare,  and  nine- 
teen miles  northeast  by  mnth  half  nmth  from  the  Seal  Pocks  otf  the  (Jhiswell 
Islands.  It  was  well  known  in  the  last  century  and  selected  as  the  future  ship- 
yard of  tlie  lliissian-Aniericau  Company;  but  it  does  not  present  the  proper 
facilities,  on  aceouut  of  the  great  deiitli  of  water,  the  severity  of  the  climate,  and 
tlie  wild  nature  of  the  coast.  In  Vancouver's  time  fiuir  English  shipwrights  were 
coiulucting  llu'  shipbuilding  of  the  <dmpany  at  this  place. 

I ly  frequent  exphu-ationa  of  the  company  otlicers  the  position  of  this  bay  is 
said  to  be  well  known,  but  no  detailed  descrii»tion  of  it  has  been  published.  Teb- 
eiikolV  represents  the  western  sliore  as  low,  the  head  as  shallow,  with  a  glacier  at 
th(!  northeast  jtarl;  the  eastern  sliore  as  liold  ami  rocky,  and  Cajie  Kesurrectiim, 
the  «'astern  point  of  entrance,  as  a  long,  moderately  low,  narrow  point,  but  rocky 

*>Sco  reuiui'kH  on  tliu  Kndiiik  gt'nup  118  11  pruIougatiDU  oi  IIiih  pvuiumilii. 


a 


ALA8KA  COAST  PILOT. 

jnid  abrupt.    ArcIiiinaiKlritoil'  (k'termiued  tlie  lutitiulc  of  Capo  JJosiirrection  50° 
51'.j,  lonf,'itiule  140°  i;{'.4. 

In  the  southcastcni  part  of  the.  \mr.\i\  I'litniiuu^  to  this  bay  Ti'lMMikotV  hiys 
down  three  inodcratcly  larjio  hut  h)\v  islands;  the  lirst  tliree  niih's  sontliwcst  by 
west  from  Cape  Kesurreetion;  tiie  second  two  niiU's  west  liy  nortli  IVoni  the  cape, 
and  the  tliird  abont  lialC  a  mile  from  tlic  west  Hide  of  the  eape  and  two  miien 
nortli-northwest  from  its  extremity.  iMile-wi<U'  i)assa;;es  are  ffi\ en  between  the 
ishinds.  The  Ciiiswells  lit;  about  lifte<'n  mih's  to  tlie  soutliwest  l)y  south,  wifli  llie 
very  irrejj;nlar  i)eninsnhi  of  Ayalilv  and  some  isi(!t8  bt-tween  tlu^  Ciiiswells  and  the 

KesuiTcetion  Bay  was  nam(>d  Port  Andrew  by  Portloek,  and  doubtless, 
visited  by  his  lonyboat  on  her  tradinjj  expedition  from  I'rince  William  !S(tund  to 
Cook's  Inlet. 

CinSWELL  ISLANDS. 

^orty  seven  miles  south  7.P  west  from  Ca\w  Clearo,  Tebenkoflf  hieates  the 
Real  Ivoeks,  (iv(;  miles  outside  of  the  Chiswell  Islands.  Thirteen  miles  south  of 
Seal  Roc'ks  Vuneouver  obtained  soundiiij;s  in  seveiity-tive  tathoms,  ami  I'ortlock 
gives  eifjhty  fathoms  over  a  nnuldy  bottom  about  twenty-two  miles  south  i>y  west 
from  them;  and  eighty-three  fathoms  over  muddy  bottom,  seven  miles  east  from 
them. 

Of  the  Chiswell  Islainls  Vancouver  says:  "We  passed  them  and  found  the 
centre  of  the  stmthernmost  group,  tiie  Seal  Ifock.s,  in  latitude  .V.P  ;il';  fntm  these 
the  easternmost,  which  is  a  single  detached  rock,  lies  north  .")(o  cjist  about  a 
league  distant,  and  the  northernmost,  which  the  hazy  weather  permitted  our  see- 
ing, having  several  less  islets  and  I'ocks  about  it,  lit's  ucu'th  l.'i^' t-ast  live  miles 
distant.  These  were  all  we  saw  of  the  Chiswell  Islands,  which  a:.'  a  group  of 
naked,  rugged  nx-ks,  seemingly  destitute  of  soil  and  every  kind  of  vegetation. 
The  southern  group  is  named  the  Seal  llocks  by  Tebenkolf,  and  the  nii<ldl»^  and 
principal  one  of  the  five  is  placed  in  latitu<U'  .V.io  ;! I',  longitude  11!)°  .'!.'{,  but  he 
does  not  ]»lace  any  detached  rock  a  league  to  the  nortiieast  of  them.  What  Van- 
couver called  the  Chiswells  proi)er  is  in  reality  a  groui»  of  islets  and  the  broken 
and  numerous  jioints  of  two  long,  low,  wooded  promontories,  stretching  soiith- 
Avard  and  forming  Aya!;k  Bay,  otV  which  lie  the  Chiswell  Islands,  north  by  west; 
five  miles  from  the  Seal  Kocks.  On  the  Kussian  charts  the  Chiswells  are  named 
the  Ayalik  Islands. 

The  large  indentation  of  the  coast  forming  the  approaches  to  Kesurreetion 
Bay  was  named  Dlying's  Sound  by  Cook. 

AYALIK  BAY 

lies  north  and  south  with  the  opening  gr.a  (led  by  the  Ayalik  or  Chiswell  Isles, 
Its  whole  length  from  the  Ciiiswells  is  about  sixteen  miles,  reaching  latitude  .">,S0 
r»7',  with  an  average  width  «»f  twit  or  three  miles,  is  nearly  straight,  but  both  shores 


i 


172 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


are  mnarkahly  iiidcntod  witli  iiuiiu'rous  covos  and  bays,  in  which  no  soiindinf^H  are 
{{ivcii.  Tiu'  oiMMiinfj  to  tliis  hay  is  hiid  (htwn  to  tho  eastward  hetweon  tlie  Chis- 
wclls  on  the  south  and  the  ])i)iiit  three  niih-s  to  tlio  northeast,  in  hititiidc  '>[)°  Jl', 
about  Ibitylbur  uiih's  west  oiu'-lialf  soutli  from  Caiie  (Meare.  There  is  an  islet 
hiid  down  in  the  nortliern  part  of  the  hay,  tiiirteen  miles  from  the  entrance,  and 
one  mih'  south  of  the  bend  to  th(^  westward.  About  midway  ahmg  the  west  siioro 
an  ann  ent<^rs  to  the  northwest  with  a  jfhujier  at  the  head;  asmaUer  fjlaeier  is  hiid 
down  on  tho  west  shore  between  this  bay  and  the  liead.  At  tlu^  lu'ad  of  the  open 
bay,  between  the  Cliiswelis  ami  the  bold  rocky  pr>int  six  miles  to  the  west  of 
them,  a  fjlacier  comes  down  to  the  oi-ean. 

Hojithwestward  of  the  Cliiswelis  the  coast  im'sents  a  broken  appearance,  and 
is  indented  by  several  unnanu'd  bays  with  {glaciers  at  their  heads. 

PYE  ISLANDS.* 

Seventy-six  miles  soutli  72°  west  from  ('ape  Cleare  lie  the  Pye  Islands, 
forming  part  of  the  eastern  shore  of  the  deep  bay  of  Nuka. 

lliere  are  tlireo  large  islands  in  the  group,  and  they  lie  nearly  north-north- 
east and  south-sciuthwest  of  each  other.  The  southern  two  are  one  or  two  miles 
in  extent;  the  northern  is  six  miles  by  three,  antl  nearly  divided  in  two.  IJetween 
the  islands,  and  between  the  northern  one  an.i  the  main  passages  nearly  a  mile 
wide,  and  lying  east  ami  west,  ])assages  are  laid  down  by  Tt'benkoti",  but  uo  soniui- 
ings  are  given,  nor  atiy  remarks  of  their  availability  in  his  notes. 

Vanc<mver  says:  "The  southenunost  part  of  the  Pye  Islands,  in  several  ])oints 
of  view,  forms  a  very  conspicuous  i)eak,  and  although  not  remarkable  for  its  great 
lu'ight,  yet  from  its  singular  a])]>earance  is  not  easily  to  be  mistaken  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, as  it  descends  with  great  regularity  from  its  siunniit  to  the  water's  edge. 
Its  southern  extremity,  by  tmr  oV)servations,  is  situated  in  latitude  .'iiP  li>'.  He 
says  that  a  group  of  rocks  lying  soutli  7.1°  west,  nearly  four  miles  distant  from 
the  southernmost  of  the  Pye  Islamls,  must  be  very  dangerous  in  thick  weather, 
especially  as  at  high  water,  during  the  spring  tides,  it  is  probably  overrtowed." 
TebenkofV  says  the  rocks  lie  south  00°  west,  six  miles  distant  froni  the  southern- 
most part  of  the  Pyo  IJocks,  and  two  and  a  half  miles  broad  otf  the  large  rocky 
island  forming  the  western  side  of  the  entrance  to  Xuka  Bay.  The  approximate 
geographical  position  of  the  southern  point  of  the  Pye  Islands,  according  to 
Archimandritofl",  is  latitude  fiO"  '20' A,  longitude  150°  29' A.  About  nine  miles  east- 
northeast  from  the  southernmost  of  these  islands,  and  five  miles  otl"  the  coast  to 
the  northwest,  Vancouver  found  bottom  in  seventy-three  fathoms.  About  twenty- 
eight  miles  to  the  east  he  found  seventy-flve  fathoms,  and  Portlock  obtained 
eighty  fathoms  over  muddy  bottom  about  twenty-rtve  miles  east  southeast  from 
them. 

*  Naiui'tl  r.ve's  InIuikI  by  Tortlock  in  17?^. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


17;; 


^'  KA  BAY. 

Acconliiiff  to  Tcboiikofrj*  climt  tliis  cxtonsivc  bay  is  about  twenty  iiiilos  loiifj 
and  from  six  to  two  iniit's  wide.  Tlu'  l'y»>  Islands  I'onn  tlii'  eastern  siile  of  its 
entranee,  and  a  lar^'e  unnamed  island,  ei;;lit  miles  Ion;;  north-northeast  and  south- 
southwest,  with  rocky,  blutV  shores,  I'orms  the  western  side  of  the  entranee,  whi«'h 
is  six  miles  across  and  broad  oiien  to  the  south.  The  bay  has  a  ;,M'neral  din-e- 
ti<ui  north,  but  has  several  jtassa^es  leading  from  it,  and  several  lai'p-r  arms. 
Tiie  passages  among  the  I'yv  Islands  have  been  reterred  to.  On  the  western  side 
a  wide  passage  leads  westward  around  the  Jiorth  end  of  a  large  ishuu'.  On  tin* 
eastern  shore  a  large  arm  opens  at  the  Avest  oi»ening  of  the  north  piissage  through 
the  Pyo  Islands,  and  eleven  miles  from  the  southernnntst  of  the  group.  It 
extends  about  seven  miles  north-northeast,  is  two  miles  wide,  and  has  a  great 
glacier  at  its  head  coming  <V  ectly  into  the  water.  The  main  bay  extends  nortli- 
northwest  from  the  point  dividing  it  from  the  eastern  arm,  and  has  several  large 
bays  on  either  side.  The  directi<ui  of  the  bay  for  the  last  five  miles  is  nearly 
northeast.  The  shores  o*'  the  bay  and  arms  art;  marked  wooded  by  Tebenkotf, 
from  whose  general  rennuKs  of  this  and  IN'surrection  Hay  it  is  inferred  thai  n(»t 
less  than  thirty  to  lifty  fathoms  are  found  throughout  thorn.  Vancouver  says  the 
coast  to  the  southwostward  is  in  most  places  very  mountainous  and  descends 
rather  quickly  into  the  ocean,  except  in  those  places  where  it  is  broken  into 
valleys,  some  of  which  are  extensive  and  gradually  incline  to  the  water  side. 
These,  in  sonu;  instances,  in  the  middle  of  May  were  buried  in  ice,  and  some 
within  a  few  yards  of  the  wash  of  the  sea,  whilst  here  and  there  sonu'  of  the 
loftiest  pine  (spruce)  trees  showed  their  heads  through  this  frigid  surface.  The 
Avhole  of  this  exterior  coast  wore  a  nM>re  wintry  aspect  than  the  shores  of  Cook's 
Inlet  in  min!h  higher  latitudes.  These  observations  of  Vancouver  aie  fully  cor 
roborated  by  the  experience  of  the  Russian  oHicirs  in  this  vicinity. 

rouT  incK. 

Ilalf-way  from  the  Pye  Islands  to  Cape  Elizabeth  the  outer  cape  is  called 
Point  Gore,  in  latitude  .5'.*°  1-",  longitude  L'iOo  .").S';  and  the  two-ndle  wide  entrance 
to  the  west  of  it  is  the  opening  to  Port  Dick,  which  runs  northward  ten  miles, 
with  a  broad  arm  ten  miles  long  jjenctrating  to  tin;  west.  The  immediate  shores 
of  this  bay  are  low  and  wooded  with  streams  coming  into  the  head  of  each  arm, 
and  no  glacier  laid  down  on  Tcbenkott".  No  soundings  an^  given  in  his  notes. 
The  west  shore  of  the  entrance  is  bold  and  rocky,  with  a  reef  and  islets  stretching 
halfway  (six  miles)  towards  the  eastern  of  the  (Jhugach  Islands. 

"Tht^  land  forming  its  eastern  ])oint,  which  is  a  jirojccting  i)romoiit()ry, 
appears  at  a  distan(!e  like  an  island,  when  about  half  a  league  distant  and  bearing 
from  north  42°  west  to  mtrth  '2P  east.  Towards  the  sea  it  terminates  in  .-in  ainiipt 
clilV  nnnlerately  elevated,  and  is  connected  to  the  nniinland  by  a  low  peninsula 
covered  with  trees.    Tlie  northwest  side  i>re8ented  every  ajipearanee  of  affording 


174 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


sli('lt«'ii'«l  imcliora;:*',  iind  tct  tliiit  jmrt  of  tlio  buy  most  of  IIm'  llrct,  two  liiiixhi'il 
hIuii  i-iiiMM's  anil  tlicir  loiir  liiiiulrt'd  Imliaiis  that  had  iiii>t  in  the  t'lir  traih'.  now 
icpaiit'd."    (VaiKioiivcr.) 

He  ;;iv«'s  a  spiiilcd  view  of  this  ch'vatt'd  rape  and  the  wcciuMy  l»»'.voiid.  In 
I7S((  I'oitlticlv  named  this  Dick's  Ilarhor  and  tlie  east  eape  I'oint  (lore,  alter  two 
ol'tlie  otlieers  of  the  Kin;;  (leor^e's  Sound  Company.  His  h»n;;hoat  douiitless  vis- 
ited it  in  lier  trading'  trii»s  between  I'rineti  William  Sound  and  Cook's  Inlet,  but 
h«' does  not  tleseiiin^  it.  Vancouver  placed  it  in  latitude  olP  1 1',  Ionj;itude  ITdP 
11'.  Tebenivoir  jdaees  it  in  latitudes  "j'J^  12',  longitude  l.KP  r»,S'.  From  Point 
tiore,  the  southernmost  (»f  the  I'ye  Islands  bears  north  02°  east  eighteen  miles, 
anil  the  south  point  of  the  easternmost  of  tho  Chugach  Islands  south  07°  west 
lifteeu  miles. 

cnuoAcn  islands. 

Three  hirije  islands,  from  two  to  three  miles  otftho  sontbern  extremity  of  tho 
Koiuii  r»Miinsula,  are  disposed  in  a  curve  around  it.  The  eastern  and  western  are 
hu  j;;e,  three  or  four  miles  extent,  and  lie  twelve  miles  apart.  The  middle  one  is 
smaller,  and  lies  half-way  between  them  and  a  litlhi  to  the  southward.  Three 
islets  are  laiil  down  one  mile  off  the  western  side  of  the  eastern  islantl;  roeks 
above  and  below  water  one  and  a  half  miles  ofl"  the  west  side  of  the  middle  cue, 
and  rocks  one  mile  off  the  southeast  liu.-e  of  the  western  one. 

When  Vaneouver  was  about  live  lea^'ues  east-northeast  from  the  eastern 
island,  he  says  that  a  low,  tiat  point  lU'ojected  towards  the  maiidand.  TebenkotV 
does  not  so  lay  it  down,  but  places  some  rocks  a  mile  north  of  the  island  towards  ii 
very  open,  rocky  bay  lyinjjf  thiee  miles  from  the  island.  When  Vaneouver  was 
live  or  six  miles  soulh  0^  east  (comi)ass)  from  the  eastern  Chufjach,  he  obtained 
soundinj,'s  in  seventy  fathoms  with  sandy  bottom,  in  this  position  the  IJarreu 
Islands  bore  from  south  .").j°  west  to  south  .'11°  west,  distant  thirteen  miles.  His 
bearinjjs  jdace  him  in  latitude  .'Jflo  OU',  lonptude  I'lio  ;{()'.  No  detailed  descrip- 
ti(»n  of  these  islands  nor  their  elevation  is  jjiven  in  the  old  navij^ators  or  explorers, 
but  Tebenkotf  represents  them  on  his  chart  as  hifjh  and  bold.  They  form  the 
northeast  shore  to  the  entrance  of  Cook's  Inlet,  with  Point  Banks  of  the  Kadiak 
{jroup  for  the  southeastern  shore  of  the  entrance,  and  the  Barren  Islands  between 
them. 

Tebenkotf  jdaccs  the  southern  point  of  the  oast  Chujiaeh  Island  in  latitude 
5!>°  0',  lonjiitude  151°  '2')',  From  it  the  eastern  of  the  Barren  Islands  lies  scmth 
04°  west,  distant  sevcnteeu  miles,  and  the  middle  Chugach  west  by  south,  distant 
five  miles. 

CAPE  KLIZADETH.* 

The  termination  of  the  Kenai  Peninsula  is  ''comi)osod  of  high  land,"  visible 
over  seventy  miles;  directly  otf  it  lie  the  three  islands  named  the  Chugach.     The 


"NiUDcU  liv  (.'oiik  ill  IT/f*  al'ti-r  thr  I'liiircss  Kli/.iilx'tli. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


1 


<.) 


wosti'iu  iM)iiit  of  tlie  western  ('liii<,'aeli  is  iianieil  Caito  Klizaltetli,  wliirh  CdoU 
iU'He"ilH'.s  as  a  "lofty  iMoiiiontory"  situated  in  filP  !(►'.  I'lij^et  saw  it  fmiii  a  <iis- 
tanee  of  sixty-tlin'e  miles,  when  lie  was  ten  miles  northwest  of  St.  Au^jnsline 
Lsland.  From  the  eenter  of  the  island  the  easternmost  of  the  Itarren  Islands  lies 
Hontli  17°  west,  distant  ten  «)i'  eleven  miles,  with  stronjr  ennents  and  a  deep  elian- 
iiel  between  them;  neaily  in  mill-channel  TebeiikolV  ;;i\es  ninety  live  fathoms  over 
Hand  and  pebitles.  He  plaees  Cape  Kli/.aheth  in  latitnde  ;V.P  (»!»',  lonj^itiide  I5P 
Til',  in  the  strait  between  the  western  ChiiKaeh  Islands  and  the  main  or  Keiiai 
I'eninsnla  there  is  a  fjood  anchorage  and  shelter,  aeeordiny:  to  I'ortloek,  whose 
boats  traversed  all  these  waters;  but  Vancouver  doubts  the  existence  of  a  chan- 
nel to  the  southward  and  eastward  tlirouf^h  those  narrow  straits,  as  he  discovered 
Rome  low,  lurking  rocks,  which  had  the  appfaianco  of  being  connected  with  a 
i'luster  of  rocks  above  the  sui'face  of  the  sea,  lying  from  the  cape  south  50^  east, 
at  the  distance  of  three  or  four  miles. 

It  is  important  this  locality  should  b(^  examiuod,  on  account  of  the  jiossiblu 
development  of  coal  in  this  vicinity  aiul  the  extraordinary  niunbers  of  w  hales  vis- 
iting this  neighborhood.  (See  rennirks  upon  the  tisheries  on  another  page.) 
I'ortloek  says  the  whales  on  the  coast  are  close  in  shore  and  in  vast  numbers. 
Moreover,  thes(^  narrow  straits  may  be  available  for  tlui  i)assage  oi'  small  vessels 
and  steamers  when  the  tide  rips  are  dangerous  in  the  main  straits.  From  Cape 
I'llizabeth  Point  I5anks  bears  .south  -'0^  west  thirty-one  miles,  and  Cape  Dougla.s 
HontU  71°  west  forty-seven  miles. 

cook's  inlet. 

This  great  arm  of  the  sea  lies  in  the  extreme  northwest  i)art  of  the  Gulf  of 
Alaska.  Its  general  direction  is  north-northeast,  and  its  length  one  hundi'ed  and 
sixty  miles.  The  entrance  lies  between  Cape  Elizabeth  on  the  east  and  Cape 
Douglas  on  the  west;  the  latter  south  71°  west  forty-seven  miles  from  the  former. 
IJroad  olf  the  entrance  lies  the  northern  part  of  the  Kadiak  gronj)  an<l  the  ISarren 
Islands.  IJetween  the  fornu'r  and  Alaska  Peninsula  lies  the  Petries  or  ShelikotV 
Strait,  almost  in  the  t'orm  of  a  prolongation  of  the  inlet;  between  the  northern 
extremity  of  the  Kadiak  group  and  Cajie  lOlizabeth  is  the  iMitrance  to  the  inlet, 
from  the  east.  In  the  miihlle  of  this  eastern  entriince  lies  the  P.arrcn  Island 
grinip,  with  a  broad,  deep  passage  on  either  side.  From  Ci\\w  Edgecumbe  to  tll(^ 
Darren  Islands  the  distaiu'c  is  the  hundred  and  forty  miles,  and  the  course  west 
12°  north.  I-'rom  the  Farallon  of  San  Francisco  15ay  tin;  distance  i:~  one  thousand 
six  hundred  and  seventy  miles,  and  course  north  1'!°  west.  On  neither  course  is 
any  danger  known  to  exist. 

Tiie  entrance  between  Cajie  Elizabeth  and  the  Barren  Islands  is  ten  iind  ii 
half  miles  wide,  and  named  the  Eastern  Passage.  The.entrance  between  the  IJar- 
ren  Islands  and  Poiid  IJanks  to  the  south  is  thirteen  miles  wide,  and  was  used  by 
the  old  navigators  as  oucasion  suited.  There  appears  no  notices  of  strong  tide 
in  it. 


m 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


Tlio  oastc  111  imsHiip'  lias  hold  sImiich  and  a  d«'])tli  of  niiiofy-fivt'  fatlioiiiH  over 
ooarsc  Hand  in  iiiitl  (liaiiiu'I.  V'aiictMivor  t'oiiiid  scvtMity  tatlioiiis  over  Handy  bot- 
tom, about  Hvc  or  HJx  mill's  south  (!°  cast  lioin  the  oustcni  Clmtjach  Island,  and 
north  .'t!(°  cast  from  flu*  southern  tangent  of  the  llarn-n  Islands.  The  currents  rush 
tlirou;rh  with  ;,n('at  velocity,  and  lor  an  hour,  at  <'crtaiii  chaii^tcs  in  the  tides,  occii- 
Hion  great  rips,  which  Tebeiikotl'  inabilities  into  Homethiiig  very  alarming;;  but 
evideiiccH  of  their  exceedingly  daiifjienms  <'harat'ter  aie,  not  found  elsewlu're. 
INntlock  says  that  in  i)assiiij,'  from  the  Marren  Islaiuls  for  (Jape  Hede  (northeast  of 
Cajie  Klizabcth)  he  passed  several  stroiifj  rippliiif,'s  of  a  tide  current.  Tebenkotf 
Hays:  "Tlu!  tide  rijjs,  however  danj,'eidus,  do  not  extend  across  the  whole 
entrance,  but  are  experienced,  for  about  an  hour,  in  the  ndddle.  The  w.a  Hud- 
denly  rises  and  boils  with  a  tremendous  noise,  and  fi  rms  hi>jh,  short,  and  irregu- 
lar waves,  which  toiijde  with  all  t.'  'ir  volume  over  the  vessel  that  happens  to  be 
aiiioiig  them;  even  during  a  strorg,  fair  v.ind  the  lower  sails  flap  against  the 
mast,  wliii<'  the  iipjier  ones  are  i»erfectly  tilled;  the  vessel  refuses  to  obey  the 
helm,  and  tlu^  hatches  must  be  onttened  down." 

AVithin  ('ajies  Douglas  and  Elizabeth  the  inlet  expands  to  sixty-five  miles  in 
width;  in  fifty-live  miles  from  the  entrance  it  ccmtraets  sucUlenly  to  twenty-tive 
miles  at  Anchor  i'oint,  whence  it  gradually  diminishes  to  twelve  or  tifteen,  with 
the  eliannel  contracted  by  several  extensive  flats  oil"  the  rivers  emptying  into  it  at 
its  head.  Its  extreme  northern  point  is  in  latitude  01°  !(»',  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Suchitiia  I'ivcr,  coining  from  the  north  and  "abounding  in  slate." 

("ook's  Inlet  is  the  great  boast  of  the  liiissian  navigators  and  authorities  as 
the  lu'St  part  of  Alaska,  and  has  been  favorably  noticed  by  nearly  all  tlu!  old  dis- 
coverers. The  well-known  existence  of  coal  upon  its  .shores  and  in  its  bays  may 
make  it  a  very  valuable  acquisition  to  the  PaciUc  coast.  The  eastern  shores  are 
broken  by  several  small  bays  and  harbors  near  the  extremity  of  the  peninsula, 
and  by  the  large  arm  penetrating  the  peninsula,  and  known  as  the  Teliugatcliik 
(Jiilf.  Hut  two  large  islands  lie  in  the  inlet — Augustin,  west-northwest  from  Cape 
Elizabeth,  and  Kalgin,  east  of  lledoubt  Mountain.  The  tanteru  shore,  after  i)a8S- 
ing  Tchugatchik  Hay,  is  undulating,  and  this  characteristic  extends  tifteen  miles 
inland  to  the  base  of  the  mountains.  It  has  a  pleasant,  green  api)carance  in  sum- 
mer, covered  with  herbage  and  dotted  with  patches  and  clum]>s  of  timber.  Hut 
the  character  of  the  soil  is  marshy.  The  same  sphagnous  morass  covers  it  that 
we  found  throughout  the  Alexander  Archipelago,  Kadiak  and  TJnalaska.  Kast- 
ward  of  this  comparatively  low  gi'ound  rises  the  mountain  range  that  extends 
through  the  length  of  the  Kenai  reninsula  toward  its  eastern  shores  aud  filled 
Avith  glaciers  on  both  flanks. 

The  western  shores  have  a  narrow  border  of  low  wooded  land  at  the  foot  of 
the  Alaskan  mountains.*  Westward  of  Augustiu  Island  the  shores  appear  the 
margin  of  "an  extensive  low  country  lying  before  the  base  of  these  rugged  mount- 

*  This  rnii);p  was  dt>Mcril>i'<l  aud  nninuil  iu  tlio  Proc.  Bust.  Soc.  Nat.  History,  November  4, 1868,  for 
the  flint  time  as  a  u-ltolt,  by  W.  H.  Dall. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


177 


niriN."  (Vaiicouvor.)  Noitliwiml  of  this  iHlttiul  tlio  Hlion'.s  art>  '>iiii|<>n(c<l  aiitl 
broken  into  covch  and  Hnuill  ha.VH  that  a])|H>ar  «'ai>iil>t*^  of  afl'ordin^  anrhorajro." 
"TIk)  points  (»f  the  ei  trance  to  tlii-HO  bays  aro  in  }(on»>ral  stwp  and  riM-ky,  iM'liind 
wliicli  risos  a  compact  nionntainous  country  to  a  considerable  liei},dit,  clad  in  per- 
petual snow.  A  narrow  tliif  inari;in  alon;,'  th«^  shor«>  is  tolerably  well  wooded." 
Twenty  nules  northwest  by  west  from  the  northeast  point  of  Anjjrnstiu  is  a  small 
bay  opeiuuK  to  thu  southeast,  with  a  siuall  islet  on  the  south  sid  <  of  the  mouth. 
At  the  head  of  this  bay  is  a  factory  of  the  Uussiau-Ameii,,i  '  Company,  from 
which  a  trail  leiuls  alxmt  seven  miles  throu(;h  a  jrap  in  the  iuouii<  tins,  to  a  series 
of  mountain  lakes  dischar^'inj;  within  a  distance  of  tlfteen  iiihs  into  tiie  ^reat 
lake  of  lliamua,  which  empties  through  tlie  Kai<'hak  river  i.to  Uri.  .ol  Ihiy,  on  the 
northwest  side  of  the  p(*ninsula  of  Alaska. 

TheRn.li  '. oIcaui(!  peaks  of  lliamua  and  Itedoubt,  risiiiff  to  *'velve  thousand 
RU'I  Hixty-six  and  eh-vcu  tiutusand  two  hundred  and  seventy  icet »  h-vatiou,  rcspei't- 
ively,  (see  views  in  Tebeukotr  (^liart,)  lie  in  the  rau^'c  t»f  compa(^t,  c«mnected,  and 
very  high  mountains  binding  the  western  shores  of  the  inlet,  but  throughout 
these  waters  the  shores  an*,  well  wooded,  and  north  of  the  liedoubt  the  mount aiuH 
retreat  well  to  the  northwest. 

Twenty-eight  miles  northwest  of  Cape  Douglas  is  tho  eastern  point  of  the  high 
islaml  of  Aiigustin,  about  eight  miles  in  diameter  and  nearly  round.  Jh'twt'cn  it 
and  the  shores  to  the  south-southwest,  sixteen  miles  distant,  li«'s  the  bay  of  Ivam- 
is(;hak,  with  soundings  from  seven  to  thirteen  fathoms  on  a  line  directly  across  it 
from  north  and  south,  and  passing  tangent  to  the  west  side  of  the  island. 


BAUUEN  ISLANDS. 

Nearly  mid-way  between  Cape  Elizabeth  on  the  northeast  and  Point  Banks 
on  the  southwest  lie  the  Barren  Lslands  in  two  principal  groups,  the  extremes  east- 
ern ami  western  points  of  both  being  thirteen  miles  a|)art,  in  a  geiu'ral  «'ast  l)y 
north  and  west  by  south  direction,  and  bounded  by  latitudes  58°  5;}'  and  .Wo  fiO', 
and  h)Ugitmle  151°  5:V  and  152°  !!»',  with  a  chaniu'l  three  miles  wide?  between  the 
groui)S,  and  supposed  by  Portlock  to  have  great  dei>th  of  water.  This  channel 
lies  north  and  south,  and  Cook  when  approaching  them  from  the  south\,ard 
intended  to  pass  through  this  channel,  but  meeting  a  strong  ebb  current  went  to 
the  eastward  of  them,  and  found  eleven,  twenty-four,  and  thirty-six  fathoms  lumr 
them. 

TebenkofT  says  "the  eastern  group  has  three  islands  a.vl  the  western  four,  all 
of  them  rather  elevated,  steep,  rocky,  and  i)erfectly  baiTcn." 

The  largest  of  them  is  Usclmgat*  Island,  situated  in  the  west  group.  It  is 
six  miles  in  length  aiul  lies  southwest  by  west  and  northeast  by  east,  with  an  aver- 
age width  of  one  and  a  half  mile;  the  scmthwest  point  is  situated  in  latitude  oH^ 
40',  longitude  l.Wo  li)'.7,  according  to  Henze:nan.    Two  small  islands  lie  half  u 

•Tlie  Kufsiau  charts  differ  much  about  the  spelling  of  these  luUiau  naiuue. 
2.3 


178 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


mile  to  the  westward  of  the  west  j)o:iit;  tliey  are  not  hiul  down  on  Tebeiikofll''8 
chart,  but  a  i),vraniid  roek  is  laid  down  Houtli  ot  the  west  point. 

A  hirge  island  lies  half  a  niilo  north  of  the  northeast  end  of  the  island,  and 
another  lies  three  miles  southwest  from  the  southeast  end  of  the  island.  Alonj^ 
the  northwest  shores  of  lJs(liu<,'at  a  penirisnla  makes  out,  connected  by  a  narrow 
neck  with  the  main  shore. 

The  larfjest  island  of  the  eastern  gronp  is  Amatuli,  (^[atuli  on  one  chart,)  one 
and  a  half  mile  in  length,  with  its  east  i)oint  in  latitude  58°  57'.C,  and  151°  53' 
l()ngitu«le,  a<'cor(ling  to  IJenzeman.  Two  other  smaller  islands  are  situated  one  to 
the  noilhwest  and  the  other  to  the  southwest  and  very  near  each  other.  One  mile 
south  fiom  Amatuli  Lslantl  is  a  high  ]»yra"uidal  roek.  Ou  the  «'ast  side  of  these 
islands  the  uniform  depth  of  bottom  is  forty,  fifty  and  sixty  I'atlnmis,  lino  sand  and 
gravel. 

Kruzenstorn  considered  tliis  group  of  islands  as  the  northern  part  of  the 
Kadiak  Archipelago. 

The  islands  are  very  high  and  totally  barren.  Cook,  who  gave  their  latitude 
very  closely,  applied  the  name  to  them  from  their  appearance.  Dixon  speaks  of 
one  of  them  as  the  "Sugarloaf"  Lsland.  Xo  navijjator  ascribes  any  height  to 
them,  but  Vancouver  saw  them  from  latitude  58°  10',  longitude  151°  L'8',  a  dis- 
tance ol  lifty-two  miles.  They  doubtless  rise  two  thousand  feet  above  the  sea. 
Portlock  reported  the  vicinity  full  of  whales  in  vast  nund)ers. 

From  th(^  cast  point  of  Amatuli  Island  Cape  Cleare  bears  north  G7°  east,  one 
hundred  and  twenty-seven  miles;  Cape  Elizabeth  north  half  east,  twelve  miles; 
]*:)int  JJanks  scnilh  .500  west,  twenty-two  miles;  Cape  Hermogenes  south  4°  east, 
forty-four  miles.  The  eastern  part  of  the  great  Portlock  Bank,  whero  we  found 
eighty  fathoms,  lies  south  70°  east,  one  hundred  and  six  miles  from  Ann      li. 

TebeidvoiT  and  other  Eussian  authorities  call  these  islands  the  Bezplodni  or 
Peregrebni,  (I'addle-over.) 

POINT  BANKS. 


This  is  the  northernmost  point  of  the  Kadiak  Group,  forming  the  eastern 
shores  of  i'etries  or  Shelikof  Strait,  and  the  southwestern  point  of  the  eastern 
passage  to  Cook's  Inlet. 

It  lies  8j)uth  Coo  east,  thirty-two  miles  from  Cape  Douglas;  south  29°  west, 
tl'Tty-one  miles  from  Cai)e  Elizabeth;  twenty-two  miles  south  .3(io  west  from  the 
eastern  i)oint  of  the  Barren  Islands,  and  north  :y,i°  west,  thirty  miles  from  Cape 
Hermogenes. 

The  point  is  in  reality  formed  by  the  small  island  Perevaleuoi  or  Passage 
Island,  but  the  ])assage  between  it  and  the  Tschuyak  Island  to  the  south  is  very 
luirrow  and  cannot  be  made  out  at  a  distance. 

Cook  was  about  fourteen  miles  east  half  north  from  it  when  he  says,  "the  land 
extends  from  south  half  west  to  nearly  west,  and  in  the  latter  direction  it  ended  in 
a  low  point  which  was  named  Point  Banks."    No  other  navigator  has  descriOed  it. 


ALASICA  COAST  PILOT. 


171) 


Cook  placed  it  on  liis  iiiai»  in  hititiuUi  58°  4-",  loiifjitiulti  ir»2o  4.S'.  lU'iizoiiiiiii 
l>la(M'.s  tlu>  iiortli  «'iul  of  tlu-  island  in  .".So  ;«('  and  l."tl3o  lit'.  About  latitude  ">So  ;;((', 
lou<;itud»'  l.TP  .'{.V,  r<utloek  jjot  souudinss  in  l~t  fatlioms;  this  is  twoiityfivt'  miles 
south  (»S^  east  from  I'oint  J$aidvs;  iu  latitude  ')fi°  '!-V,  lon<j:itude  I.">io  22',  he  yot 
fo'ty  fathoms  over  (gravel  and  dark  sand,  thirty-two  miles  south  (11°  east  from 
Point  nanks,aiul  the  sanu'  dei>th  extended  thirteen  miles  further  to  tlie  southeast- 
ward. Iu  58°  20',  lolf*  57',  Cook  got  souiulings  in  forty  fathoms  over  a  l)(»tt<»m  of 
sand  and  shells,  seventeen  nnles  south  41°  east  from  I'oint  Biinks,  ami  cauf,dit 
halibut  while  his  vessel  was  becalmed. 

CAPE  DOUGLAS, 

The  formation  of  this  cape  is  saiul  and  rock,  and  is  a  low  sandy  i)oint  strefeli- 
•ing  westward  five  miles  into  the  sea  from  the  base  t)f  very  lofty  nuuintains 
wrapped  in  snow,  which,  as  late  as  May,  covers  the  surface  of  the  low  maiyin  of 
shore  to  the  water's  edjie.  (Vancouver.)  Tebenkoff  jjives  a  view  of  tiie  caj)e, 
■wherein  it  appears  moderately  low  and  rocky,  and  without  wood,  but  no  signs  of 
its  being  saiuly. 

No  elevation  is  given  by  any  of  the  old  imvigatois,  only  the  Russians,  but 
Vancouver  incidentally  mentions  that  from  the  soutlu^rn  extremity  of  Kalgin 
Island,  in  latitude  GtP  2;5J',  he  observed  the  bearing  of  the  mountains  seen  over 
Cape  Douglas,  distant  thirty-five  leagues.  If  this  was  the  '''Fourpeaked  Mcmntain'' 
fourteen  miles  southwest,  from  Cape  Douglas  aiul  siHen  miles  inside  the  nearest 
shore,  the  distance  at  Avhich  it  was  visible  was  one  hundred  and  ten  miles,  ('ook 
saw  this  mountain  eighty  miles  distant,  from  latitude  58°  10',  longitude  ir)lo  28', 
over  the  northern  part  of  the  Kadiak  grouj).  He  says.  "We  got  sight  of  a  very 
lofty  promontory  whose  elevated  summit,  fonning  two  exceedingly  high  mountains, 
was  seen  above  the  cloiuls.  This  lU'onuHitcny  I  nanuHl  Cape  Douglas;  it  is  situ- 
ated in  latitude  '>ii°  .j(J',  ten  leagues  wost  of  the  Barren  Islands." 

This  mountain,  immediately  behiiul  Cai)e  Douglas,  must  be  over  eight  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  sea,  from  the  foregoing  facts. 

The  south  side  of  Cape  Douglas  has  soundings  laid  down  in  six,  eiglit,  nine, 
and  eleven  fat! loms,  with  two  reefs  of  rocks,  respectively  lying  seven  ami  eleven 
miles  to  the  south  and  the  south-southwest,  with  passages  between  Uieni  and  the 
shore,  off  which  they  lie  about  three  and  one  miles,  resi)ectively.  On  the  north 
shore,  three  miles  frm  the  point  of  the  cape,  is  Dry  Bay,  an  indentation  with  a 
broad  shoal  just  inside  its  heads,  which  are  one  mile  apart.  tSeven  or  eight  miles 
north  :Vd^  west  from  the  cape  lies  a  very  h)w,  flat  island,  four  or  five  miles  long, 
in  a  north  and  south  direction,  and  about  a  mile  wide;  off  its  north  eiul  Tebetdcotf 
hiys  lown  sunken  rocks  for  a  mile  and  called  it  Kamishak.  Vancouver  nanwd  it 
Shaw's  Island.  The  geographical  positicm  of  Cape  Douglas  is  latitude  .W  .").!',  and 
longitude  15;P  l(i';  V'ancouver  iilaced  it  iu  latitude  o'.P  .">2' ;  from  it  Cape  JCIi/a- 
beth  btnirs  north  71°  east,  distant  forty-seven  miles ;  the  western  point  of  the  Bar- 
ren Islands,  east  thirty  miles;  and  l*oint  Banks  south  0.5'^  east,  thiny-two  miles  j 


180 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


and  the  eastern  side  of  the  Ishiud  of  Augustiu  north  9°  west,  distant  twenty-eight 
niik'H. 

The  (h'tnilcd  description  of  Cook's  Inlet  will  be  made  of  the  eastern  shore  first, 
Ix'ginning  at  the  southward. 

POUT  CHATHAai. 

This  is  the  first  h.arbor  inside  Cook's  Inlet  on  the  western  shores  of  the  Eenai 
IVninsuIa,  and  the  southern  point  of  its  approaches  may  be  said  to  be  formed  by 
Cape  Elizabeth ;  it  opens  to  the  southwest.  Vancouver  gives  a  plan  of  it  a  hick 
has  been  copied  by  Tebeukott". 

From  that  cape,  nuvrked  by  a  small  islet  oflf  it,  the  southwest  point  of  the  inner 
entrance  to  the  harbor  bears  north  45°  east,  distant  five  and  a  half  miles,  and  a 
half  mile  before  reaching  that  point  there  is  a  rocky  t;atch  marked  by  an  islet. 
Inside  the  entrance  the  harbor  extends  about  three  miles  east,  and  has  an  average 
Avidth  of  one  mile.  The  passage  into  it,  after  leaving  Cape  Elizabeth,  is  free  from 
all  obstructions  but  such  as  are  sufficiently  conspicuous  or  easily  avoided.  These 
c(»nsist  ])riiu'ii)ally  of  shoals  that  extend  a  little  distance  from  each  point  of  the 
harbor.  Even  between  the  islet  and  rocky  patch  southwest  from  the  south  poinf 
of  the  entrance  a  passage  exists  that  h..j  from  seven  to  twelve  fathoms  oi  water. 

The  soundings  in  general  in  I'ort  Chatham  are  tolerably  regular  from  five  to 
twenty  five  fathoms;  the  bottom  a  stift'clay.  The  shores  are  in  most  places  a  low 
border,  very  well  wooded  with  spruce  and  some  shrubs.  This  border  forms  a  nar- 
row margin  between  the  shore  and  the  foot  of  the  moiuitain,  up  which  to  a  certain 
height  trees  and  plants  grow ;  but  the  tops  of  the  mountains  are  covered  with  snow. 
(May  1794.)  The  anchorage  on  the  south  shore  is  one  and  a  half  mile  inside  the 
point  in  latitude  59°  li',  longitude  151°  42'.*  The  rise  and  fall  of  the  tides  near 
tlu^  changes  of  the  moon  is  fourteen  feet,  and  neaps  about  eleven  feet,  but  they  are 
greatly  influenced  by  the  force  and  direction  of  the  winds. 

Vancouver  considers  this  harbor,  with  reference  to  its  proximity  to  the  ocean, 
ease  of  access,  egress,  and  convenient  communication  with  the  shores,  superior  to 
any  in  these  regi'.ns.  But  he  never  examined  Tchugatchik  liay,  where  the  cur- 
rents are  not  so  uncertain  and  variable,  where  the  bay  is  four  or  five  miles  wide, 
and  especially  where  bright  clear  weather  exists  while  the  whole  of  the  Cape  Eliz- 
abeth region  is  in  fog  a'ld  drizzle,  llussian  and  American  captains  give  the  pref- 
eren(!e  to  the  northern  bays. 

Three  miles  northeast  by  north  from  Cape  Elizabeth,  under  the  north  point  of 
the  approaches  to  Port  Chatham,  is  a  snudl  indentation  of  the  low  shore  in  the 
eastern  i»art  of  the  point,  open  to  the  southeast,  and  three  and  a  half  miles  north- 
east by  north  from  Vi\\m  Elizabeth.  Tlu^  entrance  is  narrow,  and  two  rocky  shoals 
extend  a  «iuarter  of  a  mile  oH"  each  point  towards  the  southeas*.  The  cove  itself 
is  about  a  mile  deep,  and  Tebenkort"  i)laces  soundings  of  five  and  six  fathoms  at  the 


*  Anliiinaiiilritott'  n'l'ics  Tort  Clmthum  in  liititudo  69°  lU'.r.,  loiigitlido  151"  4!i'.G,  but  (Iimw 
liol  HiHfiiy  tin;  liK'iility. 


•  "^^iii 


ALASICA  COAST  PILOT. 


181 


cntnince.  Portlock's  longboat  anchored  hero  in  1780,  an«l  notes  live,  four  and 
seven  fathoms  of  water  over  a  muddy  bottom.  The  extreme  western  part  of  tho 
cove  is  a  Hat,  and  a  small  stream  enters  tlie  northern  part.  It  is  named  Uefnge 
Cove.  Tuget  anchored  hero  in  the  Chatham,  when  searching  for  a  harbor,  in  thick 
fog  with  strong  westerly  winds.  lie  says  that  when  at  tJie  entrance  "  they  felt  tho 
influence  of  a  very  strong  flood  tide  from  the  eastward,  through  the  channel  be- 
tween the  Chugach  Islands  and  tho  peninsula,  and  the  conflict  of  currents  there- 
from appeared  like  breakers,  extending  nearly  half-way  across  tlio  entrance  into 
the  cove;  and  although  tho  depth  was  not  less  than  fourteen  fathoms,  yet  so  vio- 
lent was  tho  agitaticm  that  the  cabin  windows  were  obliged  to  be  secured  by  tho 
dead-lights.  The  appearance  of  the  cove  was  favorable,  and  the  vessel  worke<l  in 
and  anchored  in  tive  fathoms,  sandy  bottom.  Tho  southwest  point  of  the  cove,  in 
a  line  with  Cape  Elizabeth,  bore  south  5°  west  by  compass;  the  passage  between 
the  Chugach  and  the  peninsula  south  48°  east;  the  bottom  of  the  cove  north  07° 
west,  and  the  nearest  shore  south  57°  west,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant."  The  cur- 
rent rips  did  not  continue,  for  although  tho  weather  grew  worse,  a  boat  was  able 
to  go  out  and  searcli  for  a  better  location. 

Portlock  notices  a  cove  tliree  miles  northward  of  the  north  point  of  the  ap- 
proaches to  Tort  Chatham,  and  Tebenkott"  represents  it  a  mile  iu  extent,  ojjcn  to 
tho  southwest.  Portlock's  boat  anchored  in  the  southern  part  of  it  in  two  fathoms, 
muddy  bottom. 


POINT  IJEDE. 

Eleven  miles  north  27°  west  from  Cape  Elizabeth  is  the  long  roiuuliug  "  lofty 
promontory,  named  Cape  Bedo"  by  Cook.  Tebenkofl"  on  the  chart  represents  tlu>- 
inunediato  point  as  low  and  wooded,  with  the  mountains  rising  high  about  three 
miles  to  the  eastward.  No  elevation  is  given  of  the  heigiit  of  the  mountains  in 
this  vicinity,  but  Puget  made  bearings  upon  it  at  a  distance  of  sixty-three  miles. 
Along  the  imuunliate  shore  of  the  point  are  laid  down  a  few  rocks.  Thirty  fath- 
oms are  given  tour  miles  west  of  the  point.  Archinuindritotl'  i)lai'es  i'oint  IJede 
in  latitude  51)°  lii'.n,  longitude  l')l°  .W.tJ.  Olf  this  point  the  ebb  current  sets 
from  the  north,  by  compass,  at  the  rate  of  two  knots  per  hour;  the  flood  sets  from 
the  south,  and  runs  nearly  at  tho  same  rate ;  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide  is  re- 
ported at  fourteen  feet. 

For  live  miles  beyond  Point  Bede  the  shore  runs  about  northeast  by  east  to 
tho  south  point  of  the  Clraham  Ilarbor  of  Portlock,  (the  English  harbor  of  the 

llussians.) 

*■ '  .'■*',•' 
aitAlIAM  OH  ENOLISH  IIARUOU.* 

Five  miles  northeast  bj-  east  from  Point  Bede  lies  tiie  southwest  ])oint  of  tlie 
entrance  to  this  harbor,  wliich  opens  to  tho  westward.  Tiie  foUowing  desciiption 
is  drawn  up  from  a  manuscript  sketch  of  the  harbor  by  otticers  of  tho  Itussiun* 


^NiiiiK'd  (ii'iili:      ilmbor  liy  I'urthK'k  in  17H(i;  kiinwii  liy  tlic  UiimiaiiN  uh  KiikIIhIi  lliii'lior. 


182 


ALASICA  COAST  PILOT. 


Anu'ricaii  Coinpiiny.  In  it  are  laid  down  rocks  that  have  been  recently  discov- 
ered. 

Tlie  entrance  to  the  liarbor  is  formed  by  Dangerous  Cajie  (Cape  Opasiioi)  on 
the  north,  and  Hnssian  Point  on  th((  sonth,  tlie  former  lying  north  18°  east,  two 
and  a  (luaitcr  miles  from  the  Alexander  trading  post  on  the  latter.  A  rocky  reef 
extends  one  mile  northwest  from  Dangerous  Caite,  and  detached  rocks  with  inter- 
Aening  deep  passages  stretch  ont  three-qnarters  of  a  mile  soutiiwest  from  the 
same  cajjc.  Tebenkoll  has  a  detached  rock  higli  above  water,  just  west  of  the 
rocky  ;eef  ott'  Dangercms  Cape. 

From  linssian  Point  an  extensive  shoal  makes  broad  off  the  shores  of  the 
above  beach  for  one  mile,  with  part  of  it,  jnst  nnder  the  point,  bare  at  half  tide. 

Tlie  general  direction  of  the  bay  is  south  62°  east  for  four  and  a  half  mile" ; 
then  south-southeast  for  two  miles,  eiuling,  however,  in  very  extensive  miul  Hats, 
receiving  several  small  streams,  which  Portlock  entered  with  his  boat  at  high 
water. 

One  nule  within  the  entrance,  and  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the  bay,  lies  Pas- 
sage Island,  about  half  a  mile  long  in  the  direction  of  the  bay,  and  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  broad.  Abreast  of  the  inner  part  of  this  island  the  harbor  contracts  to  one 
mile  in  width,  maintaining  that  width  for  the  luixt  three  miles. 

From  the  southwestern  point  of  Passage  Island  a  long  reef  extends  over  a 
mile  west-southwest,  nearly  across  the  south  channel  to  Kussian  Point,  oft"  which  a 
very  narrow  passage  exists,  which  Portlock  says  he  exami  ed  and  found  plenty  of 
water. 

The  passage  on  the  north  side  of  the  island  is  the  better  one,  with  rocks  off 
each  point  for  a  i!ouple  of  hundred  yards,  but  leaving  a  cnannel  of  live  hundred 
yards  wide,  with  seventeen  fathoms  of  water  over  a  nuuldy  bottom. 

Portlock  examined  the  south  passage  and  found  plenty  of  water,  but  it  is 
much  narrower  than  the  northern  one.  The  Eussian  chart  places  it  only  two 
cable's  length  north  of  Ilussiau  Poijit,  and  only  one  cable  wide  at  the  narrowest 
p(»int. 

In  entering  this  bay  by  the  north  channel  Portlock  says  he  found  a  "strong 
outset  current,  although  the  tide  was  Hood,"  and  upon  leaving  it  "  with  the  flood 
tide  was  carried  out  very  rapidly  by  currents  to  the  northward  past  Dangerous 
Cape."  He  says  the  best  time  for  entering  this  harbor  is  near  low  water,  as  the 
rocks  then  show  themselves,  or  the  kelp  discloses  their  position. 

Three-<iuarters  of  a  mile  inside  the  point  northeast  of  tin*  east  end  of  Passage 
Island  a  lunnbor  of  sunken  rocks  stretch  southwest  about  half-way  across  the 
liarbo".  The  Kussian  sketch  exhibits  one  rock  in  this  ledge  above  water,  ana 
three  and  five  fathoms  over  the  rest.  It  will  be  well  to  pass  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
east  of  Passage  Island  to  clear  a  sand  tongue  making  out  from  it,  and  then  haul 
southward  for  the  southern  shore  towards  a  house  on  the  bea<'h. 

Hate  anchorage  nuiy  be  had  anywhere  in  the  harbor,  and  towards  the  head 
in  ten  fatiioms  water,  where  the  bottom  is  muddy. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


WS^ 


Close  under  Danpcrona  Cape  is  Coal  Bay,  a  small  aiichorafje  of  less  tliav  lialf 
a  mile  in  extent,  with  soiinclin};;s  from  twelve  to  live  tatlioms  ov'T  tine  black  sand. 
To  enter  this  cove  and  clear  tlio  reef  oflt'  the  cape,  run  for  Passage  Island  until  the 
cape  bears  north  by  east  half  east  about  one  mile  distant,  and  steer  north  'M° 
east  towanls  the  middle  of  the  cove.  It  will  not  be  safe  to  bring  the  cape  any- 
thing to  the  north  of  the  first  course,  as  a  rock  with  one  and  a  half  fathoms  at  low 
water  lies  north  50>3  west  one  mile  from  the  north  point  of  Passage  Island.  A  vil- 
lage is  located  on  the  small  stream  in  the  southeast  part  of  the  cove.  This  harbor 
is  the  one  where  coal  was  first  discovered  on  this  coast  by  Porthn-k,  and  the  anchor- 
age close  under  the  north  point  was  named  Coal  Bay  by  him.  lie  gives  a  sket(;h  of 
the  harbor  and  a  view  exhibiting  the  h)cality  of  the  coal  seams. 

A  second  cove,  twice  as  large  as  Coal  Bay,  lies  one  mile  south-southeast  from 
the  latter,  with  good  anchorages  in  ten  to  fifteen  fathoms  of  water.  The;  northern 
shores  of  this  cove,  whicili  is  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  are  bold  and 
rocky,  and  guarded  by  rocks,  but  at  the  liead  of  it  there  is  a  fine  smooth  beach, 
near  which  is  a  run  of  good  water.  Another  opening,  close  under  the  point  at  the 
south,  is  the  entrance  to  a  salt-water  lagoou  or  lake,  called  Selenic  Lake.  Hero 
Porthxik  reports  wood  of  dilierent  kinds  in  gieat  abnndaiuie,  such  as  pine, 
(spruce,)  black  birch,  witch  hazel,  and  poplar.  Many  of  the  pines  are  largo 
enough  for  lower  masts  of  vessels  of  four  huiulred  tons,  and  in  every  jtlace  were 
l»lants  and  shrubs  of  uniny  varieties  growing  with  great  strength  and  vigor. 

The  latitude  of  the  village  in  Cove  Bay  is  given  by  Archimandritotl'as  o!P  'iP, 
and  the  longitude  15^  40'  18",  the  latter  depending  ni)on  the  Cnitcd  States  Coast 
Survey  determination  of  Sitka.  At  the  Alexander  trading  post  the  latitude  is  r»!P 
L'l'  50",  longitude  151°  52'.  The  variation  of  the  compass  is  stated  to  have  been 
aOO  east  in  1848. 

No  data  are  given  for  the  time  of  high  water  and  the  rise  and  fall  of  tides, 
which  may  be  a  sumed  to  bo  nearly  those  of  Port  Chalmers. 

xiiere  is  a  Itussian  station  and  an  Aleutian  village  on  Russian  Point,  ami  a 
"  pleasant  piece  of  land  about  two  hundred  yards  wide  stretduis  southward  and 
westward  of  this  point  for  one  mile,  bordered  by  a  good  sandy  beach  on  one  sichf, 
and  on  the  inside  by  a  small  lake  of  fresh  water,  which  empties  itself  into  the 
sea"  threc-nuarters  of  a  mile  from  the  station.  This  lake  or  lagoDU  is  one  of  a 
chain  of  lakes  reaching  well  inland.  This  "beach  terminates  at  each  Ciul  in  higii 
points  of  land,  which  form  a  snug  bay  where  small  craft  might  lie  with  safety." 

Portlock  says  he  "  found  Chatham  Harbor  a  most  excellent  one  iinU'cd,  with 
great  ph'iity  of  wood  everywhere  and  several  fine  runs  of  water.  The  eastern  side 
afftn-ds  gi-eat  abundance  of  juue,  black  birch,  witch  imzel,  and  poplar,  which  grow 
close  to  the  beach ;  plants  and  shrubs  of  various  sorts  were  growing  with  great 
strength  and  vigor,     (.lime  21  17M(i.) 

"The  harbor  terminates  in  a  fresh-water  river  that  blanches  out  in  several 
directions;  they  were  filled  with  salmon,  which  the  bears  came  ih>wn  to  feed  upon. 
Bears  were  plenty;  he  raw  over  twenty  in  an  houi-. 


184 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT, 


"Tlicre  are  scvoral  projecting  points  on  each  side  of  the  harbor  that  form 
very  snug  and  good  bays,  witli  excellent  beaches,  whore  a  ship  may  be  laid  on 
with  the  K«f  i>te«t  safety ;  the  depth  of  water  close  to  the  beach  being  seven  and 
eight  fathoms." 

From  the  entrance  to  Graham  Ilarbor  the  direction  to  Anchor  Point  is  north, 
and  the  distance  twenty-seven  miles,  forming  the  broad  gnlf  to  the  month  of 
Clmgachik  Bay.  Tlie  general  direction  of  the  coast  line  from  Graham  Harbor  to 
the  head  of  this  bay  is  north  50°  east,  and  distance  thirty-nine  miles,  this  course 
being  very  nearly  that  of  the  south  shore  of  the  gulf  and  bay. 

Six  and  a  half  miles  northeast  by  east  of  Dangerous  Cape  is  the  opening  to 
the  north  of  a  small  bay  with  shallow  water,  but  anchorage  is  had  close  under  the 
western  pcsint  in  four  or  five  fathoms.  According  to  Tebenkoff's  chnrt,  there  is 
six  fathoms  in  the  entrance  of  the  bay,  which  is  about  three  miles  long,  north  and 
south,  and  two-thirds  of  a  mile  wide.  Rocks  are  laid  down  on  the  manuscriiit 
chart  close  to  each  point,  which  are  represented  as  bold  and  rocky.  On  Tebenkoflf 
the  points  lie  east  ami  west  of  each  other,  but  on  the  manuscript  chart  they  lie 
i»)rtheast  and  southwest  of  each  other.  It  is  the  Selidevoi  of  the  llussiau 
charts. 

Three  miles  east-northeast  of  the  eastern  point  of  the  latter  bay  is  a  bold, 
rocky  point,  forming  the  southwestern  point  of  the  entrance  to  a  broad  bay  full  of 
islaiuls,  with  a  long  arm  penetrating  some  miles  to  the  southeast,  but  unexplored. 
Twenty-live  ftithoms  are  noted  in  the  entrance,  and  anchorages  designated  close 
under  the  western  point.    It  is  named  Tutke  Bay  by  Tebeukoff. 

OHUGACniK  BAY.* 

Twenty-eight  miles  north  43°  east  from  Point  Bede,  twenty-two  miles  north 
4r>o  east  Irom  Dangeroiis  Cape,t  and  twenty  miles  south  .503  east  from  Anchor 
Point,t  lies  the  north  point  of  the  entrance  to  the  inner  Chugachik  Bay. 

The  north  point  of  the  entrance  to  the  bay,  named  Coal  Point,  is  low,  three 
miles  long,  and  over  half  a  mile  wide,  stre*^ching  from  the  north  shore  half-way 
across  the  entrance  in  a  southeast  half  east  direction.  In  approaching  this  point 
the  niainiserii)t  chart  locates  two  sunken  rocks  that  are  almost  in  the  mitldle  of  the 
approaches  to  the  bay.  The  lirst  one  bears  south  60°  west,  five  and  a  half  miles 
from  the  extremity  of  Coal  Point,  and  the  second  south  59^  west,  distant  two  and 
three-quarter  miles  from  the  same.  Tebeukoff  does  not  give  them  on  his  chart. 
Close  off  the  point  ten  and  Hfteen  fathoms  are  given,  and  twentj'-seven  in  the 
middle  of  the  entrance. 

*On  Nome  Riissiiin  I'liarts  Kotthckiimk  IJay;  in  Teb('iikott''s  niiiTiitivc  Cliu^iicliik,  or  Kiitchet- 
niiik  Hay. 

tTlirso  arc  llio  distances  and  positions  by  TclienkolV;  but  a  niannscriiit  chart  of  the  Rnssian- 
Amorican  l'(iini)any  makes  tlie  distance  and  direction  from  Danfjcroiis  nineteen  and  a  balf  miles 
nortli  54^  cast ;  ami  from  Anclior  Point  t  wenty-ono  miles  south  5(1"'  east.  There  wouhl  appear  to 
l)e  au  error  of  meridian  line.  On  the  manuscript  chart  the  bearings  between  Kussinn  and  Anchor 
I'oiuts  are  the  same,  l)ut  fho  distances,  thirty  miles  ou  Tcbenkotf,  and  twenty-seven  in  mauuscript; 
the  (letuils  look  more  natural  in  the  manuscript,  and  will  he  followed  in  the  ilcscription. 


ALASICA  COAST  PILOT. 


IKT 


From  this  point  the  bay  has  a  jjpneral  direction  north  47°  oast  for  nin<'toou 
miles  to  the  head,  but  the  last  four  miles  are  oeeupied  by  a  broad  tlat,  with  an 
islet  in  it,  althoufjh  Tebenkotf  gives  four  fathoms  around  this  islet,  with  two  pina- 
clo  roeks  on  its  northern  side.  This  tlat  carries  a  broad  margin  along  the  whole 
northwestern  sliore,  even  to  Coal  I'oint.    (Ugolinoi.) 

Along  the  inside  of  this  tongue  or  point  the  bea«'h  or  Hat  extends  lu-arly  half- 
way to  the  extremity,  contracting  the  bight  where  good  anchorage  is  had  in  seven 
fathoms,  mud,  one  mile  inside  the  point,  where  it  bears  south,  one  mile  distant,  and 
nearly  the  same  distance  from  the  bea«;h,  but  still  leaving  it  about  one  and  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  in  extent,  with  seven  fathoms  of  water.  TTi)on  this  tongue, 
abreast  of  the  broad  boach  or  tlat,  is  a  long,  narrow  lagoon.  Outside  of  the  point, 
to  the  northward,  is  a  broiid  beach  for  some  miles  to  the  northwest.  Inside  this 
tongue  of  land,  and  abreast  the  anchorage,  there  is  Ibund  an  extensive  coal  seam, 
seven  feet  thick,  and  not  worked  by  the  Itussian-American  Comi)any,  because  it 
opens  upon  the  beach  at  low  tide,  and  will  require  outlay  of  capital  to  develop 
and  work  it.  This,  or  similar  seams,  crops  out  on  the  shore  between  the  bay  and 
Anchor  I'oint  in  two  places  for  an  extent  of  several  miles;  and  again  northward 
of  Anchor  Point. 

From  Coal  Point  three  miles  south  75°  east  there  is  an  islet  joined  to  the 
southern  shore  by  a  low  sand  tongue;  this  decreases  the  actual  width  of  the 
entrance  of  the  bay.  East  of  that  islet  are  two  or  three  coves,  but  no  sountlings 
are  given  for  them,  except  at  the  entrance  of  the  second,  where  twenty-seven  fath- 
oms is  laid  down  in  the  approaches. 

Tiie  geographical  position  of  the  extremity  of  Coal  Point  is  latitude  .W  37' 
10",  and  longitude  151°  '22!  10",  according  to  a  recent  Ilussian  manuscript  chart. 
Tebenkoff  states  the  position  to  have  been  determined  by  Archimandritort",  who 
found  the  latitude  oOo  jjo/.o^  longitude  1.51°  1>(»'.;{. 

From  Cofil  Point  the  coast  runs  nearly  straight  for  twenty-one  miles  n(Hth  .'ioo 
west  to  Anchor  Point,  in  latitude  5!)°  ol',  longitude  151°  53'. 

The  climate  of  this  bay  is  much  preferable  to  that  at  Grahain  harbor.  Russian 
and  American  navigators  report  that  they  have  anchored  here  and  had  ch-ar,  l)eau- 
tiful  weather,  while  they  could  see  the  thick,  heavy  niasses  of  fog  and  rain  <louds 
along  the  month  of  the  inlet  in  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Elizabeth.  In  winter  it  is, 
however,  very  cold,  and  in  excessively  cold  winters  the  whole  inlet  freezes  nearly  or 
quite  as  far  south  as  Anchor  I'oint. 


ANCHOR  roiNT. 

The  position  of  Anchor  Point  was  determined  by  Chernotf  and  others  in  lati- 
tude 59°  5()'.9,  longitude  151°  o2'.8,  and  is  so  usetl  by  Tebeukotf.  Cook  pliwed  it 
in  50°  51'. 

It  lies  north  5°  east,  thirty-two  miles  from  Point  Hede,  in  the  general  direction 
of  the  east  shore  of  Cook's  Inlet  to  the  East  Foreland.  Between  it  and  Point  liedo 
L'l 


180 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


lios  tlio  ChnKachik  Gulf,  Htretcliinp  forty  niiloa  to  the  northeast.  The  country 
Itcliind  it  is  h>w  and  undnhiting  and  covered  with  wood  for  twenty  wiles,  to  the 
foot  of  the  mountains,  fonniuf^  the  ba<'khone  of  the  Kenai  PeninsHhi. 

Tiie  shore,  towards  Coal  Point,  of  Chugachik  Pay  stretches  south  50°  east  for 
twenty-two  miles,  and  towards  the  head  of  the  inlet  it  runs  north  21°  east  forty-six 
miles  to  the  mouth  of  the  Kaknu.  Five  miles  towards  Coal  I'oint  Tebenkoff  lays 
down  the  (Mitranee  of  a  small  stream.  From  the  point  the  cone  of  the  active  vol- 
cano Iliamna  lies  north  72'^  west,  forty  miles  distant,  and  volcano  Redoubt  north  31o 
west,  forty-five  miles. 

The  iidet  at  this  point  is  twenty-five  miles  across,  with  a  stronjj  current  on  the 
ebb  and  fiood;  Cook  says  he  found  three  or  four  knots  an  honr,  on  ebb,  setting 
southward.  ITe  was  then  at  anchor  off  the  point  in  twenty-one  fathoms,  Imving 
let  ft"  iiii  anchor  to  save  the  vessel  from  drifting  out.  Tebenkotf  gives  twenty-two 
fathoms,  sandy  bottom,  fou''  or  five  miles  to  the  westward,  and  eight  or  nine  miles 
south  70°  west  from  the  i)oint  are  iiTcgnlar  soundings  from  thirteen  to  twenty 
fathoms. 

I'ortlock  says :  Anchor  Point,  bearing  north  33°  east  five  miles,  had  twenty 
fathoms  nx'ky  bottom;  In^  anchored  in  mid-channel  with  Anchor  Point  bearing 
south  3()o  east,  and  had  thirty  fathoms,  with  a  current  running  four  knots  per  hour, 
ebb  setting  from  north  by  east  and  tlood  from  south  by  west,  and  at  half  tide  it 
ran  nearly  five  knots  an  hour.  Cook  named  the  point  from  the  circumstance  of 
losing  an  anchor  in  twenty-one  fathoms,  mud,  nine  miles  west  of  it. 

On  the  coast  eight  miles  northward  of  Anchor  Point,  in  latitude  59°  58',  Teben- 
kotf has  a  stream  called  the  River  Staritchkoff.  Grewingk  places  this  nnder  a  cape 
called  Staritchkoff,  with  a  hill  nnirking  its  i»osition.  The  stream  runs  northward 
for  three  or  four  miles  close  to  and  parallel  to  the  shore  and  opening  out  under 
this  cape.    (Jrewingk  calls  the  stream  Stak-Tali-Chin  and  the  cap(i  Stak-Tali-Chak.* 

Thence  the  shore  is  a  little  higher  for  ten  miles  to  Cape  Xinilochik  or  Sanif 
(Grewingk)  with  a  stream  emptying  just  north  of  it.  Tebenkoff  has  two  streams 
and  two  mouths.  Grewingk  says  two  streams  emptying  by  one  mouth;  the  south- 
ern one  the  Chaik  Chak,  the  nort'«ern  one  with  a  village  on  the  Mnnima. 

Twenty-eight  miles  from  Anchor  Point,  in  latitude  00°  IC,  a  shoal  makes  out 
from  the  coast  line  about  two  miles,  it  is  Ninilochik  Shoal  and  is  the  southern  part 
of  the  great  shoal  lying  north  of  the  Kaknu  River,  according  to  Tebenkoff.  Over 
this  shoal,  in  latitude  00°  2-1',  empties  the  river  Kasilof  on  the  north  side  of  a  cape 
of  the  same  name.  This- river  is  continued  but  a  short  distance  inland  by  Teben- 
koff, but  (irewingk  gives  its  course  a  little  south  of  east  to  the  lake  at  the  base  of 
the  Kemii  I^lountains.  This  body  of  water  is  cpiite  large  and  is  called  the  Tustu- 
mena  Lake.  Upon  it  open  from  the  eastward  two  large  glaciers,  and  the  overlook- 
ing mountains  are  covered  with  perpetual  snow.    The  natives  are  said  to  use  the 


•Grt'wiiiRk  cannot  hp  rolicd  upon;  his  information  woo  from  Bccond  and  third  liaudH  in  uU 
fiws. — Dam.. 


AliASKuV  COAST  I'lLOT. 


187 


stroain  to  reach  the  head  of  Itesuirectioii  Hay,  on  the  euwteru  shores  of  the  Keiiai 
Peuiiitsuhu 

The  cape  on  the  south  side  of  this  stream  is  Kasilof.  Abreast  of  this  slioal 
lies  the  island  and  shoal  of  Kalfjin,  only  nine  miles  west,  witii  a  ehannel  l)et\V(M'n 
the  shore  and  the  island,  having  from  six  to  lltteeu  fathoms  and  lying  nearly  north 
and  south. 

KAKNU  UIVEU.  '    "       ' 

On  the  east  shore  of  Cook's  Inlet  the  month  of  the  Kaknn  ojjens  in  latitmio 
00°  '32'.'2,  longitude  151°  19'.;J;  the  entrance  is  about  one-<iuarter  of  a  mile  wide, 
and  the  depth  of  water  inside  ten  and  twelve  feet,  Ott'  shore  the  river  iMissea 
through  an  immense  flat  with  a  channel  having  but  live  feet  of  water  at  low  tides, 
llange  nnirks  are  established  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  east  of  the  Kedoubt, 
but  it  will  not  be  safe  to  use  them,  as  no  later  published  directions  than  those 
of  Tebenkott"  in  1847  are  found.  The  south  side  or  left  bank  (»f  the  river  has  low 
shores,  but  the  shore  to  the  north  is  a  bluft"  that  extends  into  the  ri\  cr. 
Anchorage  is  had  abreast  of  the  beacons  oft"  the  first  break  in  the  )lulf,  in  tea 
feet  of  water,  mud  bottom.  The  ''  usual  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide  is  twenty  feet." 
The  magnetic  variation  was  -"Jo  east  at  the  lledoubt  in  1848. 

This  stream  runs  a  little  north  of  east,  ami  heads  in  the  Skillokh  Lake,  so  far 
unexjilored. 

There  is  a  native  village  on  the  north  side  or  right  bank  of  the  stream,  and  a 
trading  post  of  the  llussiau-Auu'rican  Company,  called  the  Redoubt  Nicolas.  Wo 
know  nothing  of  the  population  of  the  place.  In  winter  natives  are  said  to  cross 
the  Keiiai  Peni'isula  from  this  post. 

The  geographical  position  was  determined  by  Holt. 


ST.  CHEYS0ST05I  UAUnOR. 

About  two  or  three  miles  north  of  the  mouth  of  the  Kaknu  is  the  southwest 
point  of  a  bay  open  to  the  westward,  that  extends  a  mile  ami  a  half  deep  to  the 
eastward.  It  has  no  soundings  laid  down  in  it,  and  is  called  Zlatousta  Harbor,  in 
Kussian.  It  is  protected  from  all  winds  excejjt  from  northwest  to  southwest,  and 
it  might  be  a  safe  resort  when  a  vessel  met  with  the  driving  ice  of  the  ebb  current. 
It  was  formerly  the  usual  winter  anchorage  of  the  Russian  vessels.  On  Tebenkotf 
the  southwest  point  of  the  harbor  is  in  00°  M',  longitude  151°  22'.  We  can  tind 
no  sketch  of  it. 

EAST  FOUEI.AND. 

Eleven  miles  north  of  the  Kaknu  the  inlet  contracts  to  a  width  of  nine  miles 
between  the  East  ami  West  Forelands,  which  lie  almost  exactly  east  and  west  of 
each  other;  soundings  of  twelve  fathoms  are  laid  down  within  a  couple  of  miles 
of  either  shore,  but  none  in  mid-channel.  Portlock  says  that  crossing  the  inlet 
from  the  anchorage  in  Trailing  Day,  north  of  the  West  Foreland,  he  found  no 


188 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


bottom  ill  iiiid-clmiinol  at  sixty  fathoiiiH.  Vancouver  saya  the  Hhoren  of  tlio  inlet 
are  coniitarativcly  low,  or  only  niodciatcly  elevated,  and  jtittinjj  out  int<<  three 
remarkable  Nteej)  »'lifly  jtointH,  which  he  named  East,  West,  and  North  Foreland. 
(Hr  the  north  face  of  tlie  eastern  Tebenkort"  lays  down  some  rocks.  From  the 
soiitliwest]>onit  of  St.  Chrysostom  Hay,  the  East  Foreland  bears  north  17°  west, 
ten  miles,  and  the  north  end  of  Kal>;in  Island  south  H7°  west  sixteen  or  seventeen 
miles.  Vancouver  jjives  the  latitude  00°  43',  longitude  l.ioo  41'.  Malakoif,  about 
JS.'M,  observed  the  latitude  00°  43',  and  longitude  151°  li7'.3,  and  this  is  used  by 
TebenkolV. 

The  country  behind  the  East  Forelaiul  is  represented  as  low  for  twelve  or 
fifteen  miles  to  the  foot  of  the  numntains.  (Jrewingk  calls  this  Cai»e  Mikischkin, 
or  Tueaii  Tan ;  Portlo«'k  calls  it  the  South  Foreland.  From  this  cape  the  general 
direction  of  the  shore,  as  well  as  the  iidet,  is  north  "mO  east  for  thirty-six  miles  to 
Point  Possession,  but  nearly  the  whole  of  this  shore  is  bounded  by  an  immense 
rocky  shoal. 

Three  miles  east  northeast  from  the  extremity  of  the  F^ast  Foreland  is  the 
southwest  Doint  of  a  broad,  shallow  bay,  ojteninK  towards  the  southeast,  and 
bounded  ( ii  the  northeast  by  the  s<mthwestern  end  «..  the  shoal  stretching  hence 
to  I'oint  Possession.  "It  has  soundings  of  seven  and  eight  fathoms  within  a 
convenient  distance  from  the  shore,  sheltered  from  the  northeast  and  southwest 
winds,  and  not  much  exposed  to  those  which  blow  from  opjwsite  (piarters."  Into 
this  shallow  bay  Grewingk  has  a  small  stream  running  from  Lake  Sahunantova  or 
the  Kutsch-tazik-Mitscha*.  Tlie  southwest  point  of  the  shoal  lies  northeast  seven 
miles  from  the  East  Foreland.  The  shoal  coast  hence  to  Point  Possession  is  thus 
des<'ribed  by  Vancouver:  "The  whole  space  was  incumb«'red  by  an  immense 
nundi(>r  of  conical  rocks,  detached  from  each  other,  in  a  bank  of  sand  and  snuiU 
stones,  that  extended  a  league  and  upwards  from  shore.  These  rocks  arc  of 
ditlerent  elevations,  and  as  few  of  them  are  of  sufficient  height  to  appear  above 
the  surface  at  high  water,  the  navigating  of  this  shore,  with  such  rapid  tides, 
re(piires  to  be  undertaken  with  the  greatest  caution. 

"The  utmost  circumspection  was  required  to  conduct  the  boats  clear  of  the 
dangerous  |>yramiilal  rocks,  rising  peri)endicularly  from  a  base  at  a  depth  of  four 
to  nine  fathoms,  and  perfectly  steep  on  every  side  within  the  distance  of  a  boat's 
length." 

The  western  part  of  this  shoal  is  supposed  to  extend  northwest  about  six  or 
eight  miles  to  the  middle  of  the  channel  to  the  north  shore;  although  it  is 
probable  that  a  channel  exists  through  the  sho.al,  none  has  been  traced  out. 


POINT  POSSESSION. 


This  is  a  low  point,  well  Avooded,  near  the  head  of  the  inlet,  where  it  termi- 
nates in  two  branches.  There  is  dee))  water  close  to  the  point.  Turnagain  Arm, 
or  lliver,  stretches    nearly  east-southeast  for  thirty-six  miles,  of  which  distance 


*  iSee  \>revio«H  note  on  (irt'wingk. — Daij,. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


IHi) 


the  furtlior  lialf  Ih  oociipiod  by  ll.its,  bare  at  low  wattT,  but  baviiif;  from  four  to 
five  fatlioins  at  hiyh  water.  Two  niiles  iiortbcaHt  of  tliu  point  is  the  soiilliwest 
oxtieinity  of  a  threat  shoal  eoiniiifj  from  Cape  Canipbell,  lyint;  seven  and  a  half 
miles  north  77°  west  from  the  |M>int,  and  forminf,'  the  northwest  iniint  of  the  en- 
tranee  to  Tiirmipiin  Arm,  and  the  southeast  extremity  of  the  point  of  entrance  to 
the  Uiver  Knilve. 

The  mouths  of  the  Sut(!hitii.a  Rivor  Ho  about  fourteen  miles  to  the  north- 
northwest,  while  the  North  Foreland  is  twenty  miles  due  west. 

TIDES  OFF  POINT  POSSKSSION. 

Tebenkofl'  Rives  twenty-seven  feet  rise  and  fall  of  tide;  the  eurrents  run  four 
to  five  knots,  and  in  spring,  when  the  ice  breaks  away,  it  is  dangerous  navigation 
for  any  vessel. 

Cook  took  "  possession  "  of  the  country  at  this  point,  and  heneegave  it  the 
name;  he  deposited  a  bottle,  &c.,  which  Vancouver  seanthed  for  in  vain. 

Cook's  map  places  the  point  in  latitude  01°  05';  it  is  in  01°  03',  (longitude 
149°  12',)  HC(!ording  to  Vancouver. 

Malakotf  gives  it  01°  (Ki'.'>,  longitude  I.">0o  '2't'.'t,  which  is  the  position  on 
Tebenkort',  who  calls  it  Cape  Naselenia,  (settlement.) 

TURNAGAi:^  ARM. 

This  is  the  Tumagain  River  of  Cook,  and  stretches  from  Point  Possession 
thirty-six  miles  east-southeast;  at  high  water  it  has  a  width  of  eight  to  ten  miles 
for  about  eighteen  miles  to  a  sudden  contra<;tion  of  two  or  three  n*  width, 
thence  it  has  an  average  width  of  four  miles,  but  is  bare  at  low  water.  The  main 
channel  runs  in  nearly  a  straight  line  from  Point  Possession  to  the  southern  point 
at  the  throat  of  the  arm,  with  an  average  depth  of  six  or  seven  fathoms. 

The  shores  of  this  wide  i)art  of  Turnagain  Arm  form  a  biiy  on  each  side  at 
high  water,  but  they  could  not  be  approached  on  account  of  the.  shallow  Hat  that 
extends  from  the  land  on  the  northern  side  for  three  to  five  miles,  and  on  the 
southern  side  about  half  that  distance;  between  whi<;h  is  a  <rliainiel  about  four  or 
five  miles  wide,  which  is,  however,  contracted  and  obstructed  by  a  shoal  that  is  in 
nuiny  places  dry,  and  situated  about  eight  miles  east-southeast  from  Point  Posses- 
sion. It  lies  lengthwise  across  the  channel  northeast  and  southwest  for  four  or 
five  miles,  an<l  one  or  two  wide,  leaving  a  <'haiuiel  between  its  south  jxiint  and  the 
fiat  off  the  south  shore  of  about  one  and  a  half  mile.  In  this  i)art  of  Turnagain 
Arm  close  under  the  soutli  shore,  thirteen  miles  east-southeast  from  Point  I'osses- 
sion,  is  a  small  inlet  where  Vancouver  rested  to  o1)tain  its  position,  latitude  00° 
57',  longitude  149°  17',    Tebenkoff  gives  the  longituile  15(|o  02'. 

From  Point  I'ossession  eastward  to  the  throat  the  "country  bordering  upon 
the  bays  is  low,  well  wooih'd,  and  rises  with  a  gradual  ascent  uiifil  at  the  inni-r 
point  (throat)  where  th«'  shores  suddenly  rise  to  lolty  eminences  in  nearly  jH-rpen- 
dicular  clitt's,  and  compose  stupendous  mountains,  that  are  broken  into  chasms 


190 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


niid  deep  gullies.  Down  these  rushed  iiiinieiisc  torrents  of  wiiter,  rend«>i-in;;  th« 
nuked  sides  of  these  inecipices  awfully  fjrand ;  on  their  tops  yrew  a  few  stunti'd 
jtine  trees,  but  they  weri'  nearly  «U'stitutc  of  every  other  veyetaltle  ]iroduetion. 
Tiu^  tide  at  this  situation  rose  thirty  feet  perpendicularly,  so  that  at  low  water  tho 
arm  must  be  dry  or  nearly  so."     (V'ancMtuver  May  17!(4.) 

At  the  throat  or  inner  points  Vancouver  says  the  northeast  point  lies  north 
4U°  east,  three  and  three-<puirters  miles  from  the  southwest  point. 

The  arm  seems  finally  to  terminate  in  latitude  0(P  54',  htujjitude  148°  ,'$0',  in 
a  circular  nnuiner,  surrouiulcd  by  hif?h,  steep,  barren  mountains  (iovered  with  per- 
jKitual  snow.  Tcbeukolf  gives  the  termination  in  latitude  G0°  53',  longitude  141)° 
13'. 

Tlirongh  this  arm  Vancouver  understood  tho  natives  made  their  winter  con- 
nection with  Trince  William  Sound,  passing  over  a  hill  or  mountain  for  ten  or 
eleven  miles,  when  they  desceiuled  into  an  arm  of  Prince  William  Sound.  Teben- 
kotf  says  they  now  make  it  from  the  Kaknu. 

•knik  niVEn,  or  fiue  uivku. 

This  river  was  entered  by  Cook  and  Vancouver.  The  former  examined  il  to 
latitiule  01^  30',  and  the  latter  to  latitude  01°  L"J'.  It  is  not  navigable  more  than 
tw»(lve  miles  from  its  mouth,  when  it  expands  to  a  width  of  six  miles.  I'oint  Wor- 
onzo,  (so  iianu'd  by  Vancouver,  ^lay  17!>4,)  forming  the  southwest  point  of  the  river, 
is  in  latitude  fiio  oh',  longitude  14!»o  24'  by  Vancouver,  150°  07'  of  Tebenkotf. 

Point  Mackenzie  is  the  northeast  point,  so  called  by  Vancouver,  and  bears 
about  uiMtheast  from  Woronzo,  distant  two  miles,  with  twenty  to  thirty-three  fath- 
oms of  water  between  them.  Thence  the  general  direction  of  the  river  to  its  con- 
traction is  northeast  to  latitude  (M°  28',  longitude  14{)o  32'.  His  position  was  in 
latitude  01°  17',  longitude  14!P  5.S',  (Tebenkoff;)  rise  and  fall  of  spring  tides  about 
twenty-soveu  feet,  and  high  water  O/i.  after  moon  liad  passed  the  meridian.  Tho 
magnetic  variation  was  20°  30'  in  Jlay  1794.  The  river  has  a  general  direction  to 
the  northward,  and  Tebenkott"  says  the  traders,  following  the  Kaik,  reach  Lake 
Plavejno,  (latit)ule  02°  10',  longitude  14!)°,)  and  thence,  ascending  the  Tlischy- 
tue  River,  arrive  at  Copper  River.  Grewingk  has  a  post,  NUchta,  at  the  contrac- 
tion of  the  Knik,  to  where  Vancouver  exi)lored.  Vancouver  anchored  in  the  lower 
part  of  the  river,  where  he  got  seven  fathoms,  and  was  in  great  danger  from  driv- 
ing ice.  From  Point  Woronzo  the  shore  to  Point  Campbell  (named  by  Vajicou- 
ver)  runs  south  19°  west  for  four  miles.  Cook  says  nuich  low,  flat  land  borders 
the  inlet  from  the  east  point  of  the  river  to  the  northwest,  and  that  a  great  cpiau- 
tity  of  fresh  water  flowed  into  the  inlet.  He  gives  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide 
twenty  feet. 

Vancouver  says  of  the  country  bordering  the  river  to  the  limit  of  his  explora- 
tion :  "  The  shores  we  passed  were  «'ompact.  Two  or  three  small  streams  of  iresh 
water  flowed  into  the  branch  l)etween  low,  steep  banks;  above  these  the  surface 


•  I'roiiouuced  kni'cjk,  from  tUi'  EHijuimuux  imiiio  for  lire. 


AI-ASKA  COAST  IMUiT. 


191 


was  nearly  Hat,  niid  fouiitl  ii  sort  of  plain  on  which  there  was  no  snow ,  anil  hut 
very  tew  trees.  Tills  plain  stretclied  to  tlu>  loot  of  a  eonnected  Ixxly  of  nionntains, 
whicli,  exeeptinfi  hetween  tlie  west  and  nort Invest,  wen«  not  v«>ry  remote;  and  oven 
in  that  <inarter  the  country  nii^jrlit  l»e  considered  as  niodcriitcly  elevated,  Itoundcd 
hy  distant  stni)endous  mountains  covered  witli  siu)w,  and  ap|tarcnfly  dctaclicd 
from  each  other."  (May  171(4.) 

XrnN AGAIN  ISLAND. 

Six  miles  oft'  the  month  of  the  Knilt  River  lies  the  east  end  of  this  island, 
directly  in  the  channel:  its  southern  shore  on  the  ed^je  of  the  Hat  stretchin;^  from 
Point  Caniphell,  and  its  northern  ed;je  within  a  mile  or  two  of  the  southern  edjfo 
of  the  Hat  from  the  northern  shore  of  the  inlet.  The  (channel  has  very  variahlo 
hottoni,  from  three  to  twelve  fathoms.  The  island  is  three  antl  u  laif  miles  loiifj 
in  an  east-northeast  and  west-southwest  direction,  and  ah,  i'  one  and  a  half  niilu 
broad.  Near  its  western  point  a  shoal  stretches  abont  hall  a  lea^ne  in  a  north- 
west dimtion  from  the  western  jtoint  of  the  island,  where  the  latitude  was  ob- 
served I  .»  Vancouver  as  01°  OH'.  In  consciiuence  of  this  sjiit  and  *lie  shoals  which 
])roJect  five  miles  from  the  north  shore  lowards  the  island  the  navi;;alile  chaniu'l  is 
reduced  to  scarcely  a  mile  in  v.idth.  The  deejtest  water,  which  does  not  <'xceed 
six  to  seven  fathoms  at  half  tide,  is  nearest  the  northern  side.  From  this  shoal 
toward  the  southwest  the  depth  soon  increases  to  twelve  fathoms. 

KlVliU  SUTSCUITNA. 

The  several  mouths  of  this  river  open  npon  the  northernmost  shores  of  Cook's 
Inlet,  in  latitude  61°  IC,  and  between  lonj;itndes  ir>0°  30'  and  1  noo  3!)',  according 
to  Malakott'.  It  has  a  shoal  broad  oft'  "ts  mouth,  and  no  navi},'able  channel  is  laid 
down  throufih  this  shoal,  although  it  is  doubtless  accessible  at  hijjh  water,  and 
probably  at  low  tides.  The  eastern  point  lies  north  by  west  twelve  miles  from 
Point  Possession,  and  northeast  l»y  east  twenty -one  miles  from  the  North  Fore- 
land. On  either  side  the  country  is  low  and  Hat,  and  covered  with  wood.  Be- 
tween it  and  the  Knik  there  is  a  raufje  of  hijih  mountains,  and  at  the  west- 
ern side  a  hijfh  mountain,  seen  by  Van<!ouver  from  his  anchorage  west  of  the  south 
end  of  Kalgin  Island  at  a  distance  of  seventy  miles.'  This  would  make  them 
over  3,200  feet  elevation.  Tebenkoff"  says  this  river  was  explored  in  18;{4  by  Mate 
Malakoff.  North  of  G2°  Grewii'  xk  makes  it  run  to  the  northeast  through  a  s»'ries 
of  lakes,  ending  in  latitude  04°,  nd  H'P  longitude.  This  would  bring  it  within 
one  hundred  miles  of  the  Kwich.  .ik,  near  Fort  Y«mkon. 

Vancouver  supposed  from  the  appearance  of  the  land  that  an  opening,  which 
might  prove  extensive,  existed  a  few  leagues  to  the  northeast  of  the  North  Fort;- 
laud.  This  indicates  that  the  break  of  the  shore-line  by  the  dittercut  mouths  has 
marked  characteristics. 


I 


192 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


KAMISCnAK  BAY. 

IJct'iriiiiig:  now  to  tlie  south  part  of  Cook's  Inlet,  the  western  shore  is  described 
in  detail.  Kiuniseliak  is  the  name  given  by  the  Russians  to  the  water  bounded  by 
Ca]H!  Douglas,  Kamischak,  or  Shaw's  Island,  u'  tlu?  southward;  Augustin  Island 
on  the  north.  From  the  north  <'!;d  of  Kamischak  Island  to  the  soutli  end  of  Augus- 
tin Island  the  distance  is  fourteen  miles,  and  the  bearings  magnetic  north.  West 
of  this  line  tlie  bay  retreats  twenty-one  miles  to  the  west.  Two  openings  exist  on 
the  shores  of  the  bay ;  the  first,  a  broad,  shallow  bay  eight  miles  west  of  Kami- 
schak island,  with  wooded,  low  ground  at  the  head,  and  receiving  the  stream  called 
Tsehuiow.  Kocky  islets  are  laid  down  on  the  east  and  west  sides  of  this  bay. 
Seventeen  miles  west  by  north  from  the  island  is  au  nnexi)lored  opening,  with  bluff 
point  on  the  east  side  and  low  ground  on  the  west.  The  west  side  of  the  baj-  is 
indented  by  siiiall  coves  and  bays,  and  receives  several  streams. 

The  points  of  these  bays  are  in  general  steep  and  rocky,  behind  which  rise  a 
compact  and  mountainous  country  to  a  considerable  height,  being  a  continuation 
of  the  range  extending  from  Cape  Douglas,  clad  in  snow  (April  1704,)  and  seem- 
ingly destitute  of  any  vegetable  productions,  except  a  narrow,  flat  '  largin,  com- 
mencing at  the  foot  of  those  mountains  and  forming  the  sea  shore,  which  was 
tolerably  well  wooded.  ' 

Between  the  western  side  of  Augustin  Island  and  the  northern  part  of  the  bay 
there  is  a  channel  live  miles  wide,  through  which  soundings  may  be  had  in  live 
fatlioms  close  to  the  island,  and  deeper  water — ten  fathoms — is  indicated  near  mid- 
chann;!l.  From  the  northern  end  of  Kamisdiak  Islanl  to  the  islet  off  Tschuiou 
Bay  the  soundings  are  twenty,  thirteen,  and  ten  fathoms;  thence  to  the  western 
side  of  Augustin  Island  they  decrease  gradually  to  tive  fathoms. 


APPENDIX   No.   1. 
OBSERVATIONS  ox  THE  GiiOLOGY  OF  ALASKA. 

The  coast  of  iioitliwost  Amorica,  from  the  Straits  of  Fuca  to  the  Arctic 
Ocean,  presents  contrasts,  in  its  geological  as  well  as  its  hydrographical  aspects, 
•which  are  probably,  in  the  same  extent  of  territory,  elsewhere,  uneciiialletl  in  tho 
world.  The  researches  of  the  hydrographer  and  the  geologist  develop  a  not(!- 
worthy  i)arallelism  between  tlio  character  of  the  various  formations  and  the  gen- 
eral l'.ydrograi)hic  characteristics  of  the  coast. 

The  mariner,  however  unobservant,  while  threading  his  way  through  the  won- 
derful labyrinth  of  channels,  inlets,  straits,  bays,  and  harbors  wliich  characterize 
the  archipelago  Alexander,  cau  hardly  fail  to  note  their  counterparts  in  tho  deep 
gorges,  precipitous  clitfs,  and  lofty  mountains  whic  lie  on  either  side  of  him,  duo 
to  the  forces  of  upheaval,  volcanic  action,  or  glacial  erosion.  It  would  be  (!(iually 
ditticult  to  overlook  the  immense  alluvial  deposits  in  the  valley  of  the  Lower 
Youkon  and  its  delta,  while  plying  the  lead  on  the  shallows  northeast  of  Cajto 
Komanzoff,  or  in  Norton  Sound:  while  the  miniature  icebergs  of  Icy  Bay  and 
Strait,  often  so  covered  with  earth  and  stones  as  to  simulate  rocks  or  shoals,  bring 
tho  operations  of  the  forces  of  the  glacial  ijeriod  with  ecpial  distinctness  before 
his  eyes. 

The  forces  now  most  evidently  at  work  in  the  Territory  of  Alaska  are  those 
of  upheaval,  or  gradual  elevation;  pliitonic,  or  volcanic  action;  and  erosion,  with 
subs'Ocpxent  transpintation  and  deposition  of  the  eroded  material. 


ELEVATION. 

There  c;ui  be  but  little  doubt  that  the  whole  of  the  i)eninsular  portion  of  Alas- 
ka, west  of  the  150th  degree  of  longitiule,  is  undergoing  gradual  ele\  ation.  Tliis 
is  accelerated  occusionally  by  volcanic  aiition  in  localitii's  of  limited  extent.  A 
single  instance  is  known  in  Chabners  Bay,  Prince  William  Sound,  of  subsidence 
of  a  low  point*  formerly  covered  with  trees,  whose  stumps  are  now  far  below  tho 
lowest  tide  level.  But  this,  in  the  absence  of  further  information,  must  be 
regarded  as  a  merely  local  phenouu'non. 

The  facts  in  sui)port  of  the  above  hypothesis  arc  many.  On  the  neck  of  land 
between  Norton  Bay  and  Kotzebue  Sound  the  sliores  are  strewn  witli  drift  wood 
piled  in  Avinrows  by  the  fall  storms,  and  derived  originally  from  the  sjiring 
fresiiets  of  the  Youkon  aiul  the  Kusko((uiui.  Far  above  the  level  which  tlui  inost 
severe  storms   and  highest  tides  now  attain  lie  regular  rows  of  wood,    nneh 


25 


"  See  ilescriptiou  of  Shikiiij?  Poiiit,  Cliuliiiers  lliiy. 


194 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


(If'Ciiyod  but  still  pvosorviiig  its  shape,  ami  evidently  brought  there  by  the  waves. 
This  may  also  be  noted  on  the  southeast  end  of  St.  ]\Iichael's  Island,  Norton 
Sonnd.  In  the  mouth  of  the  "canal"  or  passage  between  St.  Michael's  and  the 
mainland,  not  far  from  the  fort  of  the  trading  company,  lie  a  cluster  of  basaltic 
rocks,  full  of  aniygdaloldal  cavities.  The  upper  portion  of  these  rocks  is  at  least 
lifteen  feet  above  the  level  of  high  water,  and  a  little  grass  grows  there,  bnt  in 
the  cavities  can  still  be  found,  in  nilu,  portions  of  the  shelly  covering  of  a  species 
of  barnacle,  (balanm,)  which  must  have  lived  there  Avhen  it  Avas  daily  covered  by 
the  title.  The  flanks  of  the  Aleutian  Islands  in  many  localities  bear  nearly  hori- 
zontal tertiary  strata,  which  contain  fossil  shells,  undoubtedly  identical  as  to 
species,  with  living  forms  now  abundant  in  the  Avaters  Avliich  surround  them, 
shoAving  that  they  have  been  elevated  Avithiu  a  comparatively  short  (geological) 
time.* 

The  lagoon  of  Isanotsky,  long  marked  from  French  surA'eys  in  the  last  cen- 
tury as  a  na /igable  passage,  though  dangerous,  is  now  an  im))assable  cul  <le  sac. 
This,  howev(>r,  may  be  duo  to  imperfections  in  the  original  survey,  and  not  to 
subsequent  elevation. 

Captain  Riedell,  of  the  bark  Constantine,  states  that  in  t^"  inner  portion  of 
the  south  harbor  of  Ounga  Isiand,  one  of  the  Shumagins,  Avhe,  ^  he  had  previously 
obtained  four  fathoms,  muddy  bottom,  after  the  slight  earthquake  shock  of  May, 
1808,  he  sounded,  obtaining  only  four  feet  in  the  same  i)lace.  The  lower  jiortion  of 
the  harbor  retained,  howcA'cr,  abundance  of  Avater.  Careful  and  oxacit  charts  of 
given  localities  are  needed  to  determine  with  acciu'acy  the  rate  of  the  gradual 
elevation. 


VOLCANIC   ACTION. 

The  A'iolence  of  the  A'oleanic  forces  in  Alaska  is  undoubtedly  diminishing, 
Avhile  occasional  shocks  of  earthquake  are  felt,  and  active  volcaiuK's  exist  in  the 
Aleutian  chain  of  islands.  IMany  formerly  actiAC  have  become  quiet  or  "extinct," 
the  shocks  are  less  A'iolent  and  less  frequent  than  formerly,  and  no  ernjjtion  has 
taken  ])lace  i'or  many  years.  Grewingk  enumerates  some  fifty  volcanic  ])eaks, 
most  of  which  have  been  active  since  the  Ilussian  oc(Jupaiion,  or  bear  the  evident 
traces  of  recent  activity.  Of  these  at  present  eleven  only  are  known  to  be  active 
by  emitting  flame  or  smoke. 

Kartlupiakc  shocks  are  light,  but  not  uncommon,  particularly  among  the 
Aleutian  Islands.  Sluxiks  are  said  to  be  more  common  in  the  month  of  October 
than  at  otiu'r  times.  In  the  Kavi-iak  Peninsula,  north  of  Norton  Sound,  terra- 
neous disturbances  iire  rare.  The  natives  reported  such  in  1S.")4  and  1802,  In 
August  1807,  a  perceptible  shock  was  felt  at  the  Ilussian  ]\Iis;<ioii,  on  the  lower 
Youkon,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the  sea.  Tiie  islands  of  St, 
Jlichacl  and  Stuart,  on  Norton  Sound,  are  said  by  native  tradition  to  have  origi- 
nally risen  from  th>  sea,  and  subsecpienfly  to  have  been  thrice  submerged. 


Vide  (Jrcwiiigk,  p.  277  el  xeq.,  nuU  riutos  IV  and  V.    . 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


l'J5 


OLAClAi  ACTION. 


For  o]>i)ortiniities  of  stiulying  the  ijlionoiiiona  of  fjlaciation,  Ainoriciui  stu- 
dents need  no  lonj;er  turn  to  the  Alps.  From  Unto  Inh't  ti>  Ouniiuak  Puss, 
almost  every  deep  ^jorfje  of  considerable  size  between  tin'  lii),di  mountains,  for 
M'hich  this  coast  is  so  remarkable,  has  at  its  head  a  gl  'cier,  or  the  remains  of  one. 
Some  of  these  Khicier?,  are  of  extraordiiuiry  size  and  fjrandeur.  Tiie  ice,  broken 
from  their  overhanjj;ing  terminations,  has  jjfiven  rise  to  such  nani(\s  as  ley  Strait 
and  Icy  Day;  and  smaller  frafjrnuMds,  concealed  by  the  adherent  mud  and  stones, 
Lave  in  several  instances  been  taken  for  i)erinanent  rocks  by  the  earlier  luu  f^at- 
ors.  The  (niestion  naturab/  arises,  to  what  extent  have  the  {flaidcrs  aided  in  i>ro- 
diiciny  the  extraordinary  system  of  fiords  which  characterizes  this  coast?  Or  is 
that  sy.stem  due  to  other  causes,  and  are  the  fflaciers  merely  incidental  ? 

If  the  excavation  of  these  innumerable  channels  and  inlets  is  due  to  f,dacial 
action,  we  shall  luiturally  look  for  unmistakable  evidences  of  the  fact  in  the 
grinding  and  polishing  of  the  harder  rocks  which  remain;  the  denudation  in  great 
part  of  the  softer  and  more  friable  ones;  the  transimrtation  of  large  (pnintities  of 
material,  and  its  deposition  olf  the  present  coast  line,  in  submarine  moraines  of 
•which  the  .soundings  .should  give  evidence.  The  ice  power  which  woidd  excavate 
a  channel  llfty  fathoms  deep  would  leave  no  uiutertaiii  or  dubious  evidences 
behind  it. 

If,  on  the  other  hand,  we  do  not  look  to  glacial  action  for  a  solution  of  the 
problem,  we  may  suggest  the  hypothesis,  that  the  sanw^  power  which  riiised  the 
Coast  ranges  to  their  stupendous  height;  which  lifted  uj)  the  peaks  of  Crillon, 
Fairweather,  and  St.  Elias;  at  the  same  time  upheaved  the  strata  on  either  si<le  of 
the  main  line  of  elevation,  and  nearly  parallel  with  it,  thus  producing  deep 
inci.sed  valleys  and  precipitous  mountains,  gorges,  and  ravines,  of  which  the  sub- 
marine portion,  by  its  jjosition,  became  an  archipelago,  while  that  above  the  sea, 
of  a  similar  character,  in  a  latitude  and  under  climatic  iuHuences  which  i»roduced 
a  greiiter  deposition  (in  th<^  form  of  snow)  than  evaporation,  became,  through  its 
lihysical  conformation,  the  nurse  of  glaciers. 

The  weight  of  available  evidence  does  not  seem  to  support  the  first  view  of  the 
case.  The  lower  summits  of  gneiss,  granite,  and  doloiite,  which  must  h-.wv  lieen 
covered  in  i)ast  time  with  the  superincumbent  ice  sheet,  if  it  existed,  and  to  wliich 
one  would  look  for  such  evidences  as  polishing,  striavion,  and  grimling  down,  oiler 
none  .such.  Their  outline,  and  the  nx-ks  of  which  tliey  arc  compose.i,  are  sharp, 
and  exhibit  no  evidences  of  abrasion  or  erosion. 

The  absence  of  terraces,  of  any  extent,  has  been  noticed  by  Professor  Blake, 
in  his  account  of  the  glaciers  of  the  Stikine  IJiver.  Wassnessensky  <leseribes 
none,  nor  does  \Vhymi)er,  in  his  descrii)tioii  of  the  inunense  gliieiers  o*'  Ibile  Inlet. 
X(n'  in  my  own  observations  in  the  vicinity  of  Sitka,  and  the  peninsida  of  Aliaska, 
have  1  met  with  any  cases  of  this  most  characteristic  phenomenon  of  general 
glacial  action.    If  the  glacier  Held  once  extended  over  the  entire  coast,  previous 


T-i 


lOG 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


to  the  fonniition  of  tlio  aicliijM'lafjo,  wc  may  concliule  that  the  more  northern  por- 
tions of  tlie  Territory,  north  of  the  Ahiskan  M«»>uitains,  woiihl  not  have  been 
exempt  from  ghicial  action.  Tlireo  years'  exploration,  with  a  stronj,'  disposition  to 
(h'Veh)p  the  facts  of  tiie  ease,  faih'il  to  obtain  on  the  shores  of  Norton  Sonntl,  or 
ill  Uw  vaUey  of  the  Yonkon,  any  evidence  whatever  of  sneh  action.  Once  only 
wer(!  polished  rocks  i^iet  with,  and  they  proved  on  examination  to  be  "  slickeii- 
sides;"  while  no  instances  of  transi)orted  materials,  scratches,  bonlders  or 
moraines,  were  anywliere  met  with.  The  rolling  and  moderately  elevated  char- 
acter of  the  (!onntry  does  not  favor  the  development  of  local  glaciers,  such  as  now 
exist  on  the  more  southern  coasts  of  Alaska. 

The  soft  tertiary  strata  everywhere,  though  broken,  contorted  and  aoitietimes 
metamorphosed,  ar'3  not  denuded,  except  from  the  evident  local  action  of  local  gla- 
ciers. 

But  little  has  been  learned  so  fiir  in  regard  to  the  rate  of  motion,  and  other 
circumstances  connected  with  the  magnificent  glacier  system  of  the  coast  ranges 
of  British  Columbia  and  Alaska.  A  road,  built  across  one  of  the  glaciers  of  Bute 
Iidet  by  Mr.  Waddington,  of  Victoria,  was  noticed  to  have  moved  some  ten  feet 
out  of  line  during  the  Avliiter  season,  when  the  road  builders  returned  in  the 
spring.    No  regular  observations  have  been  made,  however. 

That  the  majority  of  the  glaciers  are  decreasing  in  size,  and  hence  that  the 
climate  is  becoming  dryer  or  warmer,  is  evident.  The  glaciers  of  Bute  Inlet  and 
the  Stikine  have  notably  receded,  leaving  their  tracks  unmistakably  evident.  The 
erosive  iu;tion  of  the  glaciers  is  comparatively  small;  from  some  of  them  issue 
streams  of  Wiiler  nearly  pure*  and  they  do  not  give  rise  to  any  v«!ry  extensive 
shoals  off  the  coast.  Quite  different  is  the  case  with  the  rivers.  The  Stikine,  the 
Copi)er,  tlui  Suschitno,  all  bring  down  quantities  of  detritus,  aJinually  altering,  to 
solium  extent,  the  coast  line  in  the  immediate  viianity  of  their  embouchments. 

North  of  the  jM-uinsula  of  Aliaska  this  river  action  is  going  on  in  a  far 
grander  manner.  The  Nushergak,  Kuskocpiim,  and  Yonkon  Kivers  annually  dis- 
charge froiu  their  mouths  immense  quantities  of  earthy  matter,  Avhich  is  deposited 
ill  the  Hue  mud  which  replaces  in  Behring  Sea  the  black  volcanic  sand  which 
comes  up  on  the  lead,  south  of  tlu»  islands.  This  mud  has  formed  the  largest  sub- 
marine plati'au  with  so  slight  a  depth  of  water  in  the  world,  covering  two-thirds 
of  Behring  Sea,  and  even  extending  for  an  indefinite  distaTice  through  and  beyond 
Behring  Strait.  A  deep  sea  vallej'  exists,  however,  on  the  west  side  of  Tk'iiring 
Sea,  between  the  Alaska  plateau  and  the  shoals  of  Anadyr  Gulf,  culiiiinatiiig  in 
the  11'  )uth  of  Plover  r>ay,  Eastern  Siberia.t 

When  the  spring  freshets  of  the  Youkon  come  down,  the  water  is  laden  with 
blocks  of  ice,  each  of  which  transports  its  share  of  jiebbles,  earth,  and  sand  ;  the 
current,  twelve  to  twenty  fafhoms  deep,  in  places,  tears  away  with  resistless  vio- 


'  Si'd  Wliymiicf,  1).  '27. 

t  ('a])t:iiii  KInIi,  4)f  the  Avhaliii^  brig  ViitDliii,  vi'imitH  lii'ii'  jUi  in  the  mimth  ol'  tli«  I'li.v ;  iiiiil 
j"     'irthfv  up,  Iiy  W.  U.  T.  Exii. 


ALASIfA  COAST  TILOT. 


197 


lonoe  alluvial  banks  I'orined  years  before  and  eanies  them  alonfj,  dejiositinfj  tlieni 
little  by  little,  tiiiia  eliaiifjinfj  annually  its  dninnel  and  depth  of  water,  enttinj^ 
away  islands  and  forming  new  cues,  and  lessening  slowly,  but  surely,  the  depth  of 
water  in  IJehring  Sea.  I  have  notieed,  ou  exposed  banks,  one  hundred  and  thirty 
annual  layers  of  earth  and  vegetable  matter,  in  a  depth  of  alluvium  of  only 
six  feet. 

Should  the  elevation  of  the  laud  and  the  annual  dei)osition  of  earthy  nmterial 
continue,  geologically  the  time  is  not  far  distant  when  a  great  part  of  liehring 
Sea  may  become  dry  land,  and  Asia  be  joined  imto  America. 

AGE  OF  TUE   FORMATIONS. 

In  the  absence  of  any  information  to  the  contrary,  what  little  we  possess 
being  favorable,  wo  may  assume  provisionally  the  hyi)othesis  that  the  northern 
extensions  of  the  coast  and  Rocky  Mountain  rang(>  in  Alaska  were  elevated  at  the 
same  geological  period  as  their  more  southern  portions,  probably  near  the  end  of 
the  triassic  period.*  At  only  one  point  in  the  territory  have  older  rocks  been 
definitely  identified,  viz:  at  Cape  Lisburiu',  on  the  Arctic  coast,  where  IJeeehey 
obtained  fossils  from  carboniferous  linu'stone.t  At  the  bay  <»f  Katmai,  ])eninsnla 
of  Aliaska,  Wassuessensky  obtained  Jurassic  fossils,  which  arc  described  and 
figured  by  Grewingk.| 

The  cretaceous  strata  which  abound  in  California  and  on  Vancouver  Island 
have  not  as  yet  been  definitely  traced  into  Alaska.  It  is  (piite  possible  that  some 
of  tlie  numerous  coal  beds  of  the  archi])elago  may  pntve  to  be  of  tlii.-i  age. 

The  most  characteristic  fossiliferous  strata  of  Alaska  are  those  of  tertiary 
age,  some  of  which  have  been  decided  to  be  miocene.  Tiiese  beds,  oft^^n  brokcMi, 
contorted,  or  metamorphic,  are  found  ou  the  flanks  of  the  (roast  mountains,  and 
have  been  identified  from  various  points  in  tlie  Alexander  Archipelago,  ("ape 
S|)encer,  Prince  William  Stnnd,  Cook's  Inlet,  and  along  the  peninsula  of  Aliaska, 
and  most  of  the  Fox  Islands,  and  even  on  St.  Paul  of  the  Pribylotf  group.  North 
of  this,  the  first  authentic  locality  is  on  Norton  Sound,  wheie  we  find  the  tertiary 
(miocene)  strata  coming  to  the  st^a,  between  the  amygchiioid  basaltic,  kva  of  St. 
Mirhael'sand  tlu'  a<ljacent  maiidand,  and  themetamorpiiic  slates  and  sandstones  «)f 
theShaktolik  Hills. 

Here  they  are  blue  sandstones,  containing  vegetable  remains,  leaves  of  the 
sycamore,  {Platanm,)  &c.  Further  inland,  on  the  Voukon,  it  is  surmounted  for 
some  forty  miles  by  brown  sandstones,  containing  nniriue  siiells,  in  poor  conduion. 
All  the  fossiliferous  rocks  which  I  obtaiiu'd  on  the  Youkon,  in  Alaska,  api>eared  to 
bo  nnocene,§  but  the  basalt  and  lava  which  extend  from  the  Youkon,  at  the  Itus- 
sian  Mission,  to  the  sea  m'nv  St.  Jlichacl's  may  be,  and  probably  arc,  more  rc<'cnf. 

llemains  of  pliocene  animals,  such  as  the  fossil  elephant,  (i(7(;/j/(««  j}rimitifiiiu)i,)\\ 


*  I'idf  Whitiu-y,  (tcoliiny  <>f  t'lilii. 

tOri'whi^k,  |>|>.  HS  iiiiil  'i'i.      \.  n.    'I'lii'  <'iiiil  iit   Cape  Ifi'init'nit  iiia.v  1m'  ol'ciiilionilriims  n^c. 

t  (iicwiu^k,  II.  "JTl,  |il.  IV. 

vS  I''.iTim('onHl.v  ic|H(rt('(l  ciirltniiit'croiiN.    i'loc.  Calii.  Aiml.  Sri.,  |H(>»J,  |i.  :t4. 

||S('i'  OKUMiliifty  oCtllH  vojagi'  nl'tlir  Ifciald,  I'lolcMwir  I).  I"iirlir». 


198 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


the  bi.son,  {B.  prhcmf  and  B.  ernttsieornin),  the  musk-ox,  (orihos  moschaius,)  and  the 
Ib.s.sil  hoi'sc,  (J-J.  J'oKsilis,)  are  t'oiiiid  over  the  whole  Youkou  valley,  but  jiaitieularly 
labuiulaiit  iu  Escholtz  15ay  on  tlie  luglulalik,  and  ou  the  Kotlo  river.  Beds  of 
marl,  composed  of  fresh-water  shells  siniilur  to  those  living  iu  adjacent  lakes,  are 
found  near  I-'ort  Youkon. 

Th(^  most  important  of  these  formations  to  the  navigator  (u-  manufacturer  is 
the  tertiary.  In  it  arc  found  those  coal  veins  of  which  more  detailed  mention  is 
made  in  previous  parts  of  this  volume.  Tlu^se  deposits  arc  widely  distributed,  coal 
having'  been  reported  from  many  localities  since  the  acipiisitiou  of  the  Territory. 
Tlie  coal  is  tertiary,  (some  of  it  possibly  cretaiicous),  and,  like  most  tertiary  coals, 
is  infeiior  to  the  carboniferous  coals  both  in  (pndity  and  thickness  of  seams.  The 
annexed  table  will  show  at  a  glance  the  comparative  value  and  coinpositiou 
of  the  coals  of  the  dirt'erent  formations  on  the  west  coast  of  America  and  the  best 
carboniferous  coals  of  renn.sylvauia  and  England. 

Anah/scsofcoal.  . 


Locality  (»f  the  coal. 


I'iltHburK,  I'l'iiiiBylvaiiiii 

Ornmliy,  IViiiiHylvania 

KrnllK'ky 

Tj«'lii;;li,  ecnnMylvaiiia 

Xl'Wi'UHllt',  Kii;;;lail(l 

Xanaiino,  Vanrmivcv'H  iHlaiitl 

Jtrlliti;;tiani  Hay 

Mount  Diablo,  Califoruia,  UoHt  blai'k  ilijimoiid. 

(%>o«('  Hay,  Oi'i';i»n 

Carlinii  Stutioii.  J  ,,     .  ,        .,       , 

>  Pacilu^  railiciad 

A\  rbci-  liivi'V,      J 

Cook's  luli't,  Alaaka 


MoiBturc. 

rixoil 
carbou. 

s 
i  1  s 

AhIi. 

Sulphur. 

9.;« 

4.  (HI 
3.0(1 
9.  M 
0.  !I0 

66., "Hi 
,10.  01 
W.  (I,-) 
61.  -0 

34.  31 
26.  «3 
,17.  en 
2.04 
33.. 15 

7.10 
9,  .11) 
4.10 
0.  (ifl 
3.7.1 

1 

? 

0.2.-1 

Cbiuactcr. 


Hitiiniinous. 
llttiiiaiiKiuH, 
Caiini'l. 
A  ithi'a.  \io. 
BiliiitiiiiDiia. 


2.fl8 
a  3ft 
14.69 


46.  31 
4.V  (I!) 
46.  N 


21).  00 
11.00 
0.43 
1.25 


41.  OH 
.11.(17 
26.  91 
40.  80 


32.  l(i 

18.  .15 

? 

33.  90 

12.  (il! 

» 

33.89 

4.58 

i 

,39.  50 

,1.  34 

1 

27.  68 

6.17 

2.00 

,18.  32 

3.04 

9.40 

39.87 

7.88 

1.90 

l.ij:uitic. 
Li;:iiitir. 
Ligiiitic. 


Lit'iiilir. 
I.ik'iiilic. 
I.ijiii'lii'. 
Lipiitio. 


The  above  table  shows  at  a  glance,  better  than  any  di'scription  could  do,  the 
.superior  ipiality  of  the  Cook's  Inlet  coal,  not  only  over  all  ilie  mioceue  coals,  but 
also  over  all  the  cretaceous  coals  of  the  Pacific  slope.* 

Anthracitt'  has  b(>en  several  times  reported  from  vi>rious  parts  of  Alaska.   It  is 
probable  that  the  specimens  collected  may  owe  their  quality  to  local  metanio. 
pliism  of  the  rocks  by  heat  rather  than  to  the  general  character  of  any  large  de- 
posit.   The  Cook's  Inlet  coal,  it  will  be  noted,  contains  only  t)..'57  per  cent,  less 


*  Till'  iiMiily.scs  111"  the  Al;isk;i  coiil  nit-  due  to  I'lot'r.ssiir  .1.  S,  Xiixvln'iiy  of  tlic  ."^t'liool  of  Mini's, 
Coliiiiildii  (.'nlli'jji',  New  Yolk,  iiiid  Sditc  (;('oloj;ist  of  Oliio.  ]'nifi«sor  NcwlH'iiy  is  i'Xci'HimI  liy  iioiii) 
ill  liis  kiio\vl('il;{H  of  tlic  tertiary  coiil-lii'iiriiifj  lU'iiositM  of  tlii^  I'liitcd  .Stiitcs,  iiiiil  suy.s:  "Tliis  cdiil 
iN  fully  I'lpial  to  any  foiird  on  tln>  west  coiist,  iiol  cxci'iitiiin  tlio.sr  of  Viiiicoiivcr  iNliind  and  IK'lliiiK 
ham  Hay."     For  the  utio  of  tliu  an«ly»f»  I  iiiii  iiidi'hti'dto  ilic  .Siiiithsoiiiaii  bmtitiition. 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


11)9 


eombnstiblo  inattor,  and  only  0.00  per  cent,  more  asli  than  pood  rittshiirjif  bitu- 
minous coal,  \vhi<"li  ditlVuMicoi  is  fully  niad»'  up  by  the  1.00  per  cent,  more  wattr 
which  exists  in  the  latter.  The  amount  of  sulpinu'  is  less  than  in  eitlier  of  the  two 
best  tertiary  coals  on  the  line  of  the  Pacific;  railroad,  and  the  amount  of  moisture 
is  less  than  in  any  other  American  coal  tabulated. 

The  discoverers  of  these  outcrops  of  coal  nuist  recollect,  however,  that  the 
viilue  of  coal  is  not  due  to  its  (juality  alone.  Connnerciaily  speaking,  a  vein  of 
coal  less  than  three  feet  thick  (of  clear  coal)  is  of  very  little  value,  excei)t  for  local 
use.  The  dip  of  the  strata,  its  faults  or  foldiufjs,  the  solid  or  (iinnblin;;;  character 
of  the  superincumbent  strata,  the  distance  from  a  market,  and  f  facilities  for 
mining,  shippiuf?,  and  transportation;  all  these  an^  as  important  in  determining 
the  value  of  a  de])osit  as  the  character  of  the  coal  itself. 

Among  the  other  mineral  products  of  Alaska  of  this  age  is  i)etroleum.  This  is 
found  floating  on  the  surface  of  a  lake  near  tht;  bay  of  Katmai,  Aliaska  Peninsula. 
It  is  of  the  specific  gravity  of  l.'.j'^,  (Deaunu',)*  (piitc  odorless,  and,  in  its  crude  state, 
an  excellent  lubricator  for  machinery  of  any  kind. 

Talcose  and  chloritic  slate  with  veins  of  (puirtz  abomid  in  the  island  of  Kadiak. 
An  analysis  of  specimens  of  these  rocks  by  Dr.  Newberry  shows  only  about  H 
per  ton,  in  gold  and  silver.  He  says  in  regard  to  them,  however:  "These  speci- 
mens come  from  a  system  which  at  other  points  is  i>rol>abIy  much  richer.  The 
mineralogical  diameter  of  the  specimens  is  precisely  that  of  the  most  [noductivo 
gold-bearing  veins  known,  although  silver  will  not  be  found  in  quantity  in  such  an 
association  of  minerals."  It  is  not  imi)ossible  that  the  gold-iieariug  alluvium  of 
Cook's  Inlet,  first  examined  by  Do-'osehin,  was  derived,  originally,  from  similar 
rocks,  especially  as  the  island  of  Kadiak  is  apparently  a  prolongation  of  the  penin- 
sida  of  Kenai,  on  which  the  gold-bearing  alluvial  was  found. 

The  other  minerals  of  which  we  have  information,  and  which  are  liki'Iy  to 
prove  of  value,  may  be  briefly  alluded  to. 

Copper,  in  worn  pagments,  has  long  been  received  from  the  vicinity  of  Atna, 
or  Copper  Kiver.  Nothing  is  known  of  the  original  locality,  but  the  fragments 
appear,  from  their  condition,  to  be  derived  from  the  refuse  of  glaciers,  or  from  the 
beds  of  streams.  The  mineral  is  pure,  and  sometimes  associated,  as  in  Lake  Supe- 
rior, with  native  silver. 

Carbonate  of  copper  has  been  received  from  the  Kuskoipiim  liiver  and  the 
viciuitj^  of  Cape  Koinanzoff. 

Amber  is  common  in  the  lignite  deimsits  on  the  i)enin-  ila  of  Aliaska,  ((Ire- 
wingk,)  and  I  have  obtained  it  from  the  alluvium  in  the  delta  of  the  Youkou.  It  is 
also  found  in  the  vicinity  of  most  of  the  t4'rtiary  coal  deposits  on  the  Fox  Islands, 
and  is  an  article  of  ornament  with  the  natives  who  carve  it  into  rude  beads.  Sul- 
phur exists  near  many  of  the  volcanic  c-ones  of  Aliaska.  Localities  on  Ouiiimak, 
Kadiak  and  Uindaska  islands,  besich^  others,  are  mentioned  by  (Irewingk.  It 
has  long  been  in  use,  as  a  means  of  striking  fire,  among  the  natives. 


"  Nowberrj7  B<<j>ort  of  tho  SmitUHouiiin  luHtitutiuu  ou  Aliwliu  miuuruU. 


200 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 


flraphito  is  reported  from  Kadiiik;  but  speiiiinens  of  a  mineral,  mneh  in  uso 
by  the  Inilians,  as  paint,  liavinf;  all  the  appearance  of  Kiaphite,  proved  on  exami- 
nation to  be  micaceous  black  oxide  of  iron.  This  was  *rom  the  intericu-  of  the  You- 
kou  valley. 

Iron  is  distiibuted  over  the  whole  Territory,  but  none  has  been  observed  in 
quantities  worth  the  trouble  of  workinjf.    Ma},'netie  oxide  is  not  uncoiiimon. 

(ialeua  la  reported  in  minute  quantities  from  Whale  liay,  about  twenty  miles 
south  of  Sitka,*  and  near  St.  Paul  Harbor,  Kadiak. 

Spinel  exists  in  some  (juantities  on  St.  (;eor},'e's  Island,  in  a  decomposed  bed 
of  voU^anic  rock,  of  a  whitish  color.  The  crystals  are  large,  but  dark  and  full  of 
imperfections. 

(larnets  are  reported  froni  several  localitios,  particularly  near  Foit  Simpson. 

I  am  inclined  to  thiidc  that  the  magnificent  beds  of  white  marble  reported  by 
the  ollicers  of  the  Coast  Survey,  from  near  Sitka,  will  ultinuitely  prove  of  great 
c«)mnu'rcial  value,  if  the  qimlity  is  uniformly  as  good  as  tlu-  specimens  obtained. 

Our  knowledge  of  the  geology,  minerals  and  rocks  of  Alaska  is  extrenu'ly 
meager.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  our  eiu'rgetic  traders  and  trappers  will  enalde  ns 
to  increase  it  by  collecting  and  transmitting  specimens  from  clearly  identilied 
localities.  In  this  way  onr  stock  of  intbrmation  may  be  ra[)idly  enlarged,  and  the 
growth  and  prosperity  of  the  new  Territory  promoted. 

WM.  n.  DALL, 
Geologist  of  ilie  late  Russian  and  American 

(  Western  Union)  Tele(jrai)h  JJ^^icdition. 


Note. — Any  points  bearing  on  the  glacier  question  being  of  interest,  as  tend- 
ing di'rtiiitely  to  settle  that  much-vexed  problem,  the  following  points  are  uoted  as 
worthy  of  careful  examination  by  all  navigators  who  may  be  desirous  of  adding 
sonu'thing  to  the  common  stock  of  knowledge. 

AVe  nuiy  assume  that,  first,  the  general  course  of  a  continental  or  continuous 
coast-glacier  will  be  parallel  with  the  general  slope  of  the  coast,  irrespective  of 
local  toitography  to  any  material  extent.  Second,  that  as  the  excavations,  rock, 
scratches,  transportation  of  material,  and  so  on,  of  course,  Avill  trend  in  the  same 
line,  consequently  the  terminal  and  other  moraines,  if  any  exist,  will  be  found  to 
cross  the  liue  of  general  movement  at  right  angles.  Third,  it  has  also  been 
noticed  that  the  snuiller  hills,  or  mountains,  which  lay  ..i  the  path  of  the  New  Eng- 
land glacier  sheet,  according  to  Yose  and  other  geologists,!  always  have  the  side 
of  the  longest  slope  facing  the  direction  from  which  the  ice  sheet  came. 

Cilaneing  on  the  chart  at  the  Alexander  Archipelago,  let  us  examine  this 
assemblage  of  islands,  iidets,  and  canals,  which  iuv«riably,  by  superficial  observers, 
Las  been  referred  to  the  action  of  ice. 

We  find  the  first  assumption  directly  contradicted.    The  line  of  "excavation," 

*.  T.  A.  lUalii".    Ri'port  on  Goolojjy  of  Alaska  to  the  United  Stutcs  Coast  Survey, 
t  Memoii'8  Uoston  Society  of  Natural  History. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


201 


if  we  still  feel  disposed  to  nso  tliat  term,  is  at  ri^lit  angles  to  the  wator-slied  to  tlie 
general  slope  of  the  coast  mouiitivius,  and  to  tUu  coiu'su  uf  iiiaiiy  uf  the  existing 
local  {^Irteiers. 

Assiiiniiijj  against  reason,  for  the  sake  of  arpfument,  that  this  was  the  lino  of 
movement  of  the  glacier  she»'t,  (as  it  ninst  hav«'  been,  if  any  existed,)  we  should, 
under  the  second  assumption,  look  to  find  across  the  canals,  at  intervals,  or  at  least 
in  86litary  instances,  bars  or  subnmrine  moraines,  composed  of  the  detritus  from 
the  glacial  sheet,  at  a  time  when  the  rate  of  melting  was  equal  to  its  rate  of 
progress,  the  termination,  and  point  where  the  detritus  was  deposited,  conse- 
quently remaining  nearly  stationary.  If  any  nu('1i  exist,  which  under  the  cir- 
cumstances we  may  reasonably  doubt,  the  soundings  woidd  give  une(piivocal 
evidences  of  it.  It  is  perhaps  needless  to  say  that  as  yet  we  have  no  such  inlbiina- 
tion.  In  regard  to  the  third  point,  Mr.  Davidson  mentions  in  tlvs  volume  the 
fact  that  the  abrupt  side  of  the  mountains  is  almost  invariably  the  cast  or  north 
east  side,  which  excludes  the  idea  of  a  glacit'r  sheet  from  any  direction,  t'xcept 
from  the  sea,  but  agrees  well  with  the  hypothesis  of  an  upheaval  coeval  and  par- 
allel with  that  of  the  coast  ranges. 

It  is  therefore  considered  unnecessary  to  pursue  the  subject  of  a  general 
glacier  sheet  any  further,  and  it  only  remains  to  dis(!uss  the  indications  by  which 
we  may  determine  the  former  extent  and  amount  of  iuHuence  of  the  local  ghu-iers. 

It  h.as  already  been  mentioned  that  the  deposition  of  detritus,  in  the  form  of 
shoals,  otf  the  largest  known  glaciers  of  this  coast,  is  very  small,  especially  when 
contrasted  with  that  deposited  by  even  the  smaller  rivers.  The  excavation  of 
such  immense  inlets  and  channels  by  ice  action  would  necessarily  Ibrm  large 
quantities  of  eroded  material,  which  must,  by  its  specific  giiivity,  have  been 
deposited  somewhere  near  the  coast. 

Leaving  the  Alexander  Archipelago  for  the  head  of  the  Gulf  of  Alaska,  at 
Chugach  (or  Prince  William)  Sound  and  Cook's  Inlet,  the  conformation  of  the  bays 
and  coast  is  such  as  to  give  an  air  of  more  probability  to  the  theory  of  excavation 
by  ice  than  that  received  from  the  asjjcct  of  the  more  southern  coast. 

It  is  in  this  vicinity  that  any  observations  Avould  be  of  tlie  greatest  interest  as 
tending  to  (inally  settle  the  question  of  how  much,  if  any,  of  the  peculiar  indenta- 
tion of  the  coast  is  duo  to  the  action  of  local  glaciers.  We  should  look  for  such 
indications  as  these. 

First.  Kvident  lines  of  erosion,  grinding,  and  scratching,  probably  of  greatest 
strength  in  a  parallel  direction  with  the  general  course  of  the  iidet  or  sound. 
These  might  also  be  crossed  by  another  series,  denoting  the  actiim  of  sonu^  limited 
portion  of  the  glacier,  controlled  by  local  topograjdiy,  in  another  direction.  These 
marks  should  be  carefully  distinguished  from  such  as  might  have  resulted  from 
the  act  ion  of  bay  ice  in  winter,  carried  about  by  the  tide  and  wind.  Such  evi- 
dences are  clearer  and  more  satisfactory,  when  obtained  at  some  distance  abo\e 
high-water  mark. 

Second.  Deposition  of  material  in  fragments  of  greater  or  smaller  size,  foreign 
26 


202 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


to  tlio  locality  where  it  may  be  foiuul,  and  Ireqiiently  indicating  the  action  of  ice, 
by  the  polisliiiitj  or  Ncnitcliiiig  of  one  or  more  of  the  sides  of  any  particular  fraj^- 
nient,  and  especially  by  boulders  whose  rounded  form  is  so  familiar  In  the  fiehls 
and  stone  fences  of  New  Enf;land.  Here  also  care  should  be  taken  not  to  con- 
founil  stones  rounded  or  smoothed  by  the  action  of  water  alone,  with  those 
i'ashioned  in  the  grasp  of  an  irresistil)le  moving  ice-sheet. 

Third.  A  peculiar  dome-like  api)earance  is  to  bo  noticed  in  low  hills  or  moun- 
tains, over  Avhich  a  glacier  has  passed,  with  the  longer  slope  facing  the  side  from 
M  liich  the  ice  is  sui>posed  to  have  moved.  It  is  on  the  brow  and  sides  of  such  hills, 
when  tiie  rock  is  su(li(;iently  hard,  that  the  most  evident  traces  of  polishing  and 
Herat cliing  may  be  hmnd. 

Fourth,  The  rocks  and  islets  in  the  bays  or  inlets  snpi)osed  to  have  been 
fornu'd  by  glacial  action  would  naturally  be  rounded  or  polished  on  their  upper 
surfaces  in  a  manner  hardly  to  be  mistaken  for  the  result  of  sea  ice  moved  by 
^vind  and  tide. 

Finally,  at  or  near  the  mouth  of  such  openings  we  might  reasonably  expect 
to  find  water  comparatively  shallow,  from  the  deposition  of  tine  material,  the 
result  of  denudation,  or  bars  composed  of  the  larger  fragments  dropped  by  the 
ice  sheet,  in  the  form  of  moraines,  or  at  least  in  the  shape  of  large  accumulations 
of  scattered  boulders,  gravel,  and  stones,  as  in  the  loens  of  the  Mississippi  Valley. 
If,  on  the  other  hand,  none  of  these  conditions  prevail,  and  none  of  these  proofs  of 
glacial  action  be  obtained,  after  careful  search,  then  we  may  Justly  reject  the 
glacial  theory,  in  its  application  to  the  coast  of  Alaska,  and  seek  another  expla- 
nation of  the  remarkable  conformation  of  the  coast  line  which  we  meet  with  there. 

It  is  to  bo  hoped  that  our  explorers  and  navigators  will  not  neglect  any 
oi>portunity  of  sounding,  or  nudiing  personal  examination  of  the  rocks,  that,  by 
their  rej)orf  s  and  the  information  they  can  so  readily  convey,  we  may  more  rapidly 
arrive  id  some  satisfactory  conclusion. 


AITENDIX  No.  2. 


IVUll 


Tlic  followiiiR  list  of  the  jjcofjiaitliical  i»o.sitioi)s  of  plncos,  imnoipnlly  upon  fho 
coast  of  Alaska,  has  Ikhmi  coiiipilt'd  cliicll.v  from  Kiissian  autlioiitifs.  In  its  ])r»'i)a- 
ration  the  intention  was  to  introduce  all  «li't<aininations  of  position  that  appoaird 
to  have  been  made  by  aetual  observation,  even  when  the  localities  are  quite  eloso. 
In  the  arehipelaKo  Alexander  most  of  Vancouver's  latituiles  have  been  inlro- 
duced,  althouKh  in  such  waters  they  are  not  of  fjreat  itrnetical  value. 

It  is  believed  the  latitudes  are  (jfenerally  within  two  miles  of  the  actual  posi- 
tion, and  in  many  cases  where  several  observers  had  determined  them  independ- 
ently, the  errors  may  bo  less  than  a  mile.  The  longitudes  of  harbors  refridarly 
visited  by  vessels  of  the  K\issian-Auicrican  Company  appear  to  be  fairly  deter- 
mined, except  toward  the  western  termination  of  the  Aleutian  chain,  where  larf^e 
discrei)ancies,  reaching  .30'  of  arc,  are  exhibited  by  tho  comi)arison  of  n^sults 
between  Russian  authorities  and  the  United  States  cxphninK  expedition  to  the 
North  Pacific  in  1855.  Positions  by  ditferent  authorities  are  given  in  some 
instances  to  show  these  discrepancies.  The  comparison  of  latitudes  and  longi- 
tudes at  Victoria,  Fort  Simpson,  Sitka,  Chilkaht,  Kadiak,  and  Unalaska,  between 
English  and  Jlussian  and  the  United  States  Coast  Survey  determinations,  exhibit 
larger  errors  than  might  have  been  expected. 

The  uncertainties  that  exist  in  the  geographical  position  of  many  islands, 
lieadlands,  straits,  and  reefs,  the  great  dissimilarity  of  outline  and  extent  of  recent 
examinations  of  some  of  tho  ^yestern  Aleutians,  the  Avant  of  reliable  data  cou- 
cerning  the  tides,  currents,  and  winds,  the  almost  total  want  of  detailed  descrip- 
tions of  headlands,  reefs,  bays,  straits,  &c.,  and  the  circumstantial  testimony  of 
the  Aleutian  fishermen  concerning  islands  visited  by  them  and  not  laid  down  ui)on 
the  charts,  point  to  the  great  necessity  for  an  exhaustive  geographical  reconnois- 
sance  of  the  coast,  as  was  done  for  the  coast  of  the  United  States  between  Mexico 
aud  British  Columbia. 


204 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 

Lint  of  the  geographical  pogitionn. 


Locality. 


Smi  Krani'ip»r«i.  CiilifHritia 

Vh'toi'ia,  ViinciMivt'i'  InIuiiiI 

iliIjIiiIIii,  rii/hiii!iiSuniiit,  a c. 

I'*ni't  Sirii|mon,  l>txi>it  Siiiuiil,  H  C. 

iCiiHi'  I'diiit,  Mtxoii  Siiunil,  It.  C 

Kui'tliwcHt  I'uint,  Laznrn  Inland  .  ■ 


AI.AHKA,  .lI.KXANHlill  AllCIIirEI.AnO. 


Kntrmin'  to  INirtlnnil  Caiml 

Ili'uil  III'  I'lirllanil  Canal 

Villai;i*  ill  'rrhi'MiiiiHity  IfarlMtr... 

Drvil'M  Dniik,  K.VKrtiil  Strait 

(;a|i(>  elm™  .  Kyuitiii  HI  rail 

Piiliit  Niiiii'i,  KyRitnl  Stnilt 

(*n)M«  KyKiliii  or  Mit/iMi 


Aiicliiirnn"  In  mldillo  ono of  llip  Kyiiiinl  liatlioin. . 

(I.AIIKME  SOI'XI)  AND   ITS  AHMS. 

(JanlniT  Tlnrlmr 

Tcliilirhaiiiitf  Hay 

Aiirli'iiHm'  Taiii^aH  Harbor 

Ka/ani  Hay 

Niirth  f'lilranro  to  Tam)j;a«  Xarrows 

('a|H>  CuanialKi 

I'lirl  Strwarl.  Hontli  I'oiut 

Kntranci'  to  UrtI  Hay 

ICtiiliii  ITarlior,  \Vran;;olt  Tulanil 

StikiiH'  Ivivor,  sonllit'aHl  pniii,  of  ontraDCo 

INirt  l'rot(*ctliiii,  rtoiithwoHt  point 


CHATHAM  8TI1AIT,  FnF.nEIIICK  SOmro,  ICY  BTBAIT, 
AM)  TIIEIK  AIIM8. 


Capo  Tlcoinlon.  Kim  T»laH(l 

Ciipr  Onmiancy,  HaranoH'  iMlanil 

Port  Malni(>slmry,  iiortli  point,  (Point  iTarrla,  Koii 

tHlanil) 

Port  ('(iniluKion.mnitlioastimint  HaranofT lalanil . . 
Point  ICIlm,  Kou  iHlanil 


Point  Sullivan,  Kon  tslaml. 


Point  Oarilnpr,  aonlh  onil  of  Admiralty  Island. . 

Rkalitrli  I'liint,  Hiuilliinst  point  of  entrancfl  to 

Pi'vil  Strait,  llarunofT  Inland 


Point  Parkor.  Admiralty  Island 

Point  .Vupnsta.  soiitheaat  point  of  entrance  to 

Icy  Strait,  Tchltiliaaoff 

Point  t'onvrrdcn,  northeast  }Mtlnt  of  entranco  to 

Ii'V  Strait 

Point   lii'troat.  northwest  point  Barlowo  Cove, 

Admiralty  Island W  34 

Point  \Vhitl)y .W  35 

toiut  St.  Mary,  north  point  of  Beruer  Bay .W  4;i.  5 

'Latitude  from  Admiralty  Chart  Ko.  3426. 


LatltndK, 


37  47 

4M  Si 

!>'i  in 
r>t  ■».  V 

.■54  l-J,  0 

:>i  -M.  0 


93.8 
30.11 


.'hI  43.0 

im  3.-> 

.'m  4.-) 

imi  (w 

.M  4(1 

l:io  M 

.■54  :i!i.  0 

i:il  HI 

.'.4  4iO 

l:(l  .''>:i.o 

.•H  4'J.  0 

t:i'j  i»i.  0 

.'>;  43.0 

i:i3  4:1. 8 

5(  43.0 

1:13  :i!).  0 

M  40 

133  4.1.5 

59  02 
.%  10.  .I 

M  17.  5 

r<e,  iii.o 

."ifi  31.0 
liO  38 
57  01 
57  B4 

57  37 

58  03.5 
58  12 


Lim^itndo. 


.■■14  4!) 

131  45 

5.->  01 

131  45 

S."!  03 

131  35 

.V>  34 

133  00 

X)  'JO 

1.13  43 

55  3« 

131  :d 

:,->  3H.  3 

131  45 

5(i  m 

1X1  07 

50  31.5 

13J  JO 

'<l>    10 

V     -il. 

.^O  1».3 

13;.  -M 

133  33      1» 

133  30       05 
I3H  07       M 

130  3:1       40 

131  3:1.0 
133  00.  0 


134  58 

134  38.  5 

134  07 

134  27 

134  14.7 

134  10.5 

134  27 

134  47 

134  40 

135  00 

135  03 

134  ,'i!> 

135  13 

135  02 

Authority. 


Tnlted  Slates  Cooat  Survey, 
rnllcil  Slat4's  Coast  Survey. 
Ciiltfd  Stales  Coast  Survey. 
Kniti'd  Slates  Coast  Survey, 
ChroulHi'hotr. 
CMiruutsehoir. 


Vanrouver,  TelienkolTs  .\tla«. 

Vnneoiiver,  Teln'okolTs  .\tlaa. 

Vaiuonver,  TehenkolTs  .\tla». 

Chrontsrholf. 

Chrouliiclioir. 

Admiralty  Chart  No.  2431. 

Ignited  Stall's  Coast  Hur^'ey, 

Chroiitschoff. 

Ktolin. 


Tebenkors  Atlas. 

Ti'lM'nkolfs  Atlas. 

Klolln. 

Ktolin. 

TelienkolTs  Atlas. 

Vaneonver,  Tebeiikoira  .Vtlas. 

Vaneoiiver,  Telienkoirs  .Vtlas. 

Ailiiiiralty  Chart  No.  3431. 

Zarellio. 

Ailniirulty  Chart  Ko.  2431. 

Vancouver,  Xvbeukotl's  Atlas. 


Vancouver,  TehenkotTs  Alloa. 
Vancouver,  Tehenkoirs  Alios. 

Vaneonver,  TebenkolTs  Atlaa. 
Vancouver.  Telienkoff  s  Atlas. 
Vancouver,  Admiralty  Chart   No. 

2431. 
Vancouver,  Admiralty  Chart  No. 

2431. 
Vancouver,  TebenkolTs  Atlas, 

Mannscript  Itnsslan  Map,  Teben- 
kolTs -Vtlas. 
Vancouver,  TebcnkofTg  Atlaa. 

Vaneonver,  Tebenkoff's  Atlas. 

Vancouver,  Tebenkoff's  Atlaa. 

Vancouver,  Tebenkoff's  Atlaa. 
Vancouver,  Tebenkoff's  Atlas. 
Vancouver,  Tebenkoff's  Atlaa. 


ALiVSKA  COAST  I'lLOT. 
Lint  of  the  geographical  iwnitionn — Contiimo»L 


203 


Loi'iiUtv- 


Hmiill  laUnd 

Unitctl  Stali'H  (!imrit  Hiirvi^y  AMtroiKiiiiirnl  Hliiduii 
4111  Saiiily  Irtland,  iiinuth  tif  rhilkiilit  Uivi'r 

Point  Macnrlni-y,  KuiirlaiiotV  Ulaiiil 

Biirut  I'nint,  wi'Kt aiili^ (il'iiiitraiui' to  INirviumtiaya 
Hay.  Kii|irl»iiritr  Inlaixl 

Faint  Na|N'aii,  Ailniiralty  iHland 

Cap«  Fauxlin w 


lalot  off  Point  Pybua,  Ailuilrnlty  '..•ianil. 


Point  Windham 

Point  Styli'Mian.  nortli  point  of  Port  SiiPttinhniu. . 
Point  Sttliwbiuy,  w«»t  hMc  of  I'ntranco  to  Tukcin 

ann 

Mouth  of  Takoii  lliviT 

Eaut  iMilut  Spanliii  Ilarlior,  Icy  Strait 


AnchorftK"  l*"'*  Kii'dcrlck,  Icy  Strait . 

Point  Adoiplmn,  Ii.y  Strait 

AuchuraKK  Port  Althorji,  Icy  Strait... 


TACIFlr  COAST— ALEXANDER  ARCIIU'ELAnO. 


CniM'  KycAiii.  or  Mnion 

Port  Zardho.  M^nitli  cap»i 

I'orrcater  iHland,  suntli  puiut. 


Wolf  Rook 

(Ui]w  St.  lliirtoloniu 

Went  Point,  Dolores  Bay,  Iliicarolli  Sound 

Caiw  Addinitton,  or  AdaiuHon 

Coiountion  Inlanil,  wc»t  point 

Hazy  Inlanda 

CajH-*  Dcciaion 

CaiH5  Oninianoy 

Hcd  Cape 

Point  Lander,  sontk  point  of  Port  Banks,  or 
Whale  Bay 

Point  AVoo<lhou9e.  north  point  of  Biorka  Island, 
Sitka  Sound 

Cape  Edgccunibc,  Sitka  Sound 

Mount  Edgccunilw,  8,833  feet  higli,  extinct  vol- 
cano, Sitka  Sound 

United  States  Coast  Survey  astronomical  sta- 
tion, Sitka* 

Cross  on  Greek  Church,  Sitka 

Cupola  of  governor's  house  and  llRlit.  Sitka 

Hnnnt  Voatovia,  east-northeast  of  Sitka,  3,216 
feet  high, l)y  mercurial liarometer,  1S63,  August. 

Lineidn  Harbor,  Noquasbinski  Hay 

Cape  (leorpiana,  south  point  of  Salinhnry  Sound. . 

Cape  Edward 

Portlock  Harbor,  (approximately) 

South  Point  i>f  Ilh'ria  Bay 

Point  Bingham,  south  isiint  of  Icy  Strait,  or  CriHW 
Sound 


Latitude. 


M  M 


.W  II 

45 

17  01.5 

r.7  03.  3 

.'i7  10 

.-.7  II 

57  IS 


57  31 

57  .13 

M   II 

.W  37 

5H  0« 

5«  10 

!M  \H 

58  l-iO 

54  42.  0 

54  4H 
SI  4tJ 

,13  01.  0 

55  12 
55  18 
55  27 
.15  .15 
,15  .15 
5«  02 
.16  10.  5 
50  20 


56  .M.  0 
.17  OO.  4 

57  02.8 

57  02  52 
57  02  52 
57  02      47 

57  03      23 


57  17.  5 
57  39.  0 
37  45 


I.iingitiide, 


Authority. 


135  22.5 


13,1 

21 

133  M 

yxt 

10 

134 

112 

IXI  2.1 

l:i:i 

29 

|:M 

42 

134 

.15 

133 

.14 

i:i5 

08 

13.1 

28 

I.'I5  41 

I3U 

12.0 

132  43.  8 

132 

.14.  0 

133 

2!) 

l.Tl 

24 

13:( 

33 

133  24 

IXI  45 

134 

10 

134 

M 

134 

.18 

134  28.  5 

134 

4!l 

134  58 


135  2!).  2 
135  40.0 


l.ll  17  05 
135  10  53 
135  17      08 

135  12      .17 
135  25      50 
135  4.1.0 
i:i<>  1.1.0 
l:t6  12 

i:mi  10 


I    5803.5  l:t6  27 

■*  Magnetic  dccUuation  observed  August  7,  18«7  =  28<' 


Vanconver,  TelH'iikoir's  .\tlas. 

rniird  Stales  Coast  Survey. 
Vancouver,   Adiiiiraity  Chart  No. 

2431. 
MjiuuMM-lpt  lluH.tlan  ('l)art. 
Vani'ouver,  'rfl»cuko(l"M  .\tlfts. 
Vancouver,  Admiralty   ('hart   No. 

2131. 
Vancouver,  Ailmlrally  Chart  No, 

2131. 
Vancouver,  TcbcnkolT's  Atlas. 
\'ancouver,  'rebcnkolf's  Atlas. 

Vancouver,  Tehetikotr's  Atlas, 
Vancouver.  'I'l-lM'nkotf's  .Vtlas. 
Manuncript     Cljurt,     Telwukoll"* 

Atlas. 
Teiicnkoir's  Atlas. 
Vanconver,  'rdM'nkotf's  .\tlas. 
Vancouver,  'l'cl)enkoH"s  Atlas. 


I'nited  States  Coast  Survey. 

Meares,  Zareilsi. 

.McarcH,     Vanrouvci-,     'rehciikoira 

Alias. 
Vanc()uver.  TclM-nkcdrs  Atlas. 
La  I'l'i-ituMC,  'rciienkoirs  Atlas. 
La  I'l  rouse,  Telienkotrs  Atlas. 
Meares,  Telienkoirs  Atlas. 
'J'el)eiikotrs  .\llas. 
Bixon,  Tebenknirs  Atlas. 
Vanconver,  'I'eiienkotrs  Atlas. 
VaiHMiuver,  'rcbi-'ukotrs  Atlas. 
Tebei)kofl"s  .Vtlas. 

Dixrni,  Bcnzenia.i. 

Vasilii'tr. 
Vasilieffi 

Vasllleir. 

rinlted  States  Coaat  Survey. 
United  States  (;oast  Srirvey. 
United  States  Coast  Survi'y. 

United  States  Coast  Survey. 

United  States  Coast  Survi-y. 

1     tlock,  'I'ebi'nkotrs  Atlas. 

Vnsilietr. 

I'ortliH'k,  TebenkofTs  Atlas. 

Illiria. 

Vanoinvcr,  TebenkolTB  Atlaa. 

50".  8  east 


20G 


ALASIC^V  COAST  PILOT. 

Lht  of  the  geographical  posiiiom — Coiitiuiietl. 


Li)rnHtv. 


1*1)1-1  Altlini-])  anclioracc,  f'roKM  Soiiiiil 

('iipr  S|n'ii('i'r,  iinrti>  iiiiitit  ol'  ley  Strait 

I.tiiya  liny,  iir  Krciuli  I'lirt,  wmlli  iiiiiiit 

litiiya  Mciiiiit,  or  Mutiiit  Oillou 

Caiic  Kitirwi'atlMT 

Slimnt  I'lihMiatlii^l-,  l:t.wi4.  i;i,!t4li,  1 1.VOl*  IVct 

CaiH;  riiippH,  Ktinlli  pniiit  nl'  Vakutat  ur  Buliriii^'H 

Bay 

Cape  Timior,  Kliaiitaak  lalaiiil,  Bcliring'H  Bay... 

Eh'iHira  Haibc:,  ]l4'liriii;^'H  Bay 

r>iiiit    Latiiiii'lii',    I'litraiieu    to    DiHenchaiitmout 

Bay,  Ileliriii^'rt  Bay 

Pdint  Manby,  wcHtcrii  point  of  BehHug's  Bay 

Cajio  llioii.  rant  point  of  icy  Bay 

Mount  St.Klias,  '4,!nO,  l(i,ii;W,  Vl,%:iA  foot 

Baniplona  Kot-l" 

Capr  laktagu 

I.ai.ia  Iti.'f 

Capo  Hn(-klin;x,  caHtcrn  part 

Capo  llaniininKl,  or  St.  Eliiui,  Boutli  i>ucl  Knynk 

Inlanil 

North  Point,  Wlnglinni  iHlaml . 

Soa-ott*'r  IiankN 

Nortli  I'oint,  Otrlick,  or  MiJrllcton  Irfand 

Kiislorn  niontli  of  Coppor  or  Atnu  Uivcr 

AIa;:anlk  Villa^ro,  Copper  Ui  .or 

WoMti'in  niontli  of  Copiicr  Kivt  r 

Capo   Himiiiiibrook 

Kort  (  onHlantino,  rurl  V.W  )0«  

Capo  Clcaro,  xoiitli  jioint  of  .Mcnitagiio  Inland 

Jill In  llarlior.  Monta^ui'  l.-.lali(l 

Norlli  point  of  ClialniirH  Harbor,  Monlagno  Isl'd. 

<  'apo  Hf»nrrt'ct  ion 

Sial  lioikR,  Month  of  Cldswrll  Inlands 

Byo  iHlandn.  Hontbornluost 

T('linf:at('li  or  Chn^aih  iHlainln,  sontli  point  of 

Ihi'  oantorn  oiio 


Latitude. 


roOKH  INt.ET. 


Capo  ElUabolli  

Aiichorai;!'  ia  Port  Cliatlmm 

Point  Ilodi' 

Villajjo  in  Coal  Bay,  fJralmm  Harlwr 

Coal  I'oint.  Tchngatcldk  Bay 

Anchor  roint 

Foi I  SI.  NIt'hnlan,  Kakiiti  lUvnr 

KaKl  Fonland 

IViiril  I'owHCHHion 

Ik!i'(  noar  TurnaLniin  Ann 

I'oint  Varon/.off,  ciitraiiru  to  Knock  (I.  o.  flri>) 

Uivcr 

Tnrnayain  Inland,  wont  pitlnt 

■\VrRl  ]Hiint  Stirliitna  Uivcr 

N<  .  ill   Korcland 

Wont  1 'oroland 

Nottliwont  point  Kalf'bin  l.sland      

Itcdoiilit  Volcano,  ll.jlli  icct,  Isuow -covered)  ... 


.■■irt  12.  0 
X  1-J.  .I 
.W  .14.  5 

:«  4s.  5 

,58  50.  a 

58  57.  0 

.TO  ai.  0 

.59  X\.  0 

59  ti.  0 

59  51 
,59  43 
,59  5.1 

60  2-J.  C 
,59  n:.' 
.59  Sft 

.••'  :^ 

.59  j9 


,59  49 
liO  05.  5 
.59  44 

,59  :io 

(iO  r 
(W  41.3 

m  a./ 

6U  IG 

fiO  20 

.59  J" 

,59  ..S 

r>0  113 

.59  51.5 

,59  34 

59  20 

.59  Of. 


59  09 

59  13.5 
5!)  19.5 
.59  24.  0 
,59  37.  2 
,59  ,50.  9 
m  32.  2 
flO  43.  0 
61  03.  5 

60  57.  7 


18 


61  OfJ.  0 

fil  08.(1 

61  16.5 

CI  04.0 

t'lO  44.  0 

Oil  :t:i.  0 

60  a?.  0 


Longitude, 


136 

12 

13(i 

34 

137 

16 

137 

11.5 

137  48.0 

137 

27.0 

139  42.0 

139  35.  0 

139  21.  0 

Authority. 


139  25. 5 

140  06.  0 

141  14 
140  ,54.  0 

142  39 

142  12 

143  43 

144  11 


144 
141 
145 
146 
145 
145 
145 
146 
14li 
1(8 
147 
147 
119 
149 
1.50 


.53 

57 

57 

30 

57 

49 

54 

47 

52      , 

01 

54 

22 

13.4 

32 

28 


151  25 


Vanrouvor,  Teliriikoirs  Atlas. 
Vancouver,  Tclienkoirs  Atlan. 
La  I'eronne,  Lipinnki. 
La  I'eronne,  Lipinnki. 
Vancimver,  Lipinnki. 
Vanciniver,  Lipinnki. 

Vanconver,  Lipinnki. 
Vancouver,  Lipinnki. 
Malespiua,  Xobenkoirn  Atlas. 

Vniicoiiver,  TebcnkofTs  Atlas. 
TebeiikolTs  Atlas. 
Vanconver,  Tebenko>*"8  Atlf.8. 
Vancouver,  Tcbcnkoir»  Atlas. 
I'onitiou  very  uncertain. 
Tebenkoirn  .Vllan. 
Ti'licnkotrs  Atlas. 
Vancouver,  Tebeiikoirs  Atlaa. 

Vancouver,  TcbenkolTn  Allan. 

Vancouver,  Tebeukofl'n  Atlan, 

Lindcnbcr^. 

Tretzeroir. 

Ti'bciikotrs  Atlan. 

S<'rebrnnikolf. 

Screbranikon'. 

Vancouver,  TcbenkotTn  Atlan. 

ChernotT,  lielcher. 

Vancouver,  TelxMikofTs  Atlas. 

A'anconver,  Teln'nkoirn  Atlas. 

Vani'onver,  '15  lienkofl's  Atlas. 

.Vrcbinniinlritott'. 

TebcnkoiV'n  .Mian. 

TelK'nkotf'n  Atlan. 

Vancdnver,  TebenkolT'n  Atlan. 


151  51 

Vancouver,  TcbenkotTn  Atlas 

15142 

Vancouver,  Tcdicnkolf's  Atlas 

151  .58.6 

ArcbiinandritotV. 

151  49.5 

ArcbiTuandritoir. 

151  21!.  0 

Arcliiuuindrilotf'n  MS. chart. 

151  .52.8 

Chernotf  and  others. 

151    19.3 

Iteldl. 

151   27.3 

Vamouvcr,  Malakoff. 

l.'K)  25.  5 

Vancouver,  Malakoft'. 

1.50  01.6 

Vancouver,''t'ebenkt>n"n  Atlan 

150  07.5 

Vancouver,  Telxmkoff's  M'..\it 

1.50  15 

Viincouver.  Tebenkoir's  Atlan 

1.50  39 

Tebenkolfn  Atbia 

151  07.5 

Vanc(Hiver,  TelH-nkoff 's  A,Jlas 

151  4.5.9 

Tebciikcitr. 

151  .57.0 

Teb.TikolV. 

15a  38.  0 

Tebciikoll.                       ' 

ALASICiV  COAST  PILOT. 

List  of  ihe  geograplikal  positions — Continued. 


207 


Locality. 


nininim  Volcano,  12,066  feet,  (»row-coverod) 

Iliaiiiiia  Village,  portiigo  to  lUamna  Luke,  ami 

Bristo!  Itay 

Mount  San  Aiigustiu,  on  Blaekbrown  Island 

Cii\w  Douglas 

roitloek  Ilniik,  Pn  fathoms,  120  miles  north  73'' 

east  from  St.  I'aul 

KAIIIAK  AUCHU'ELAGO,  AND  rETIUBS  OB  BIIEUKOFF 
BTRAIT. 

Barren  Islanilfl,  east  point  of  Amatuli  Island  

Southwest  iKviut  of  rgutihlu  Island 

I'oiut  Hanks,  north  end  of  Portage  Island 

Sea-otter  Island 

Korth  jioint  of  Afoguak  Island 

A  fognak  lloeks 

.South  I'uiiit  St.  Ilennogenea  Island 

Pillar  Point 

CniM'  IJoot,  (Peuteeost) 

Euhel?.  Village,  Marni.it  Hay 

Kortheast  jioint  Keto;-  Island,  Northern  Strait  .. 
Chiniak  Point  Keif  we  it  e:.tranee  Narrow  Strail- 

Sonllieast  point  Spruce  Ishiiut 

Vasilielf  or  W'Uiauis  Bank 


Spnice  Point 

United  Stuti'8  Coast  Survey  observatory,  south 
point  Cliagavka  Cove,  St.  I'a\il  Harbor 

riagstatf.  Si.  I'aiil  Village 

Pillar  (Ui  .Mount  SI.  I'aul,  (l.Ofll  feet  high) 

Korth  peak  of  Dovils  ilountuins.  2J  milet  north- 
west of  St.  Paul.  2,057  fe.'l  higil 

leo  depot  on  AVoody  In^md 

Stui  i.Mi  near  north  end  Woody  Island 

Cape  (jrovillet 


Tolstoi  or  Broad  Capcl. 


Low  Cape 

Koisy  Capo 

TJgak  Islaiul.  southeast  p'  lut 

Southwest  cape  of  KiiioudaBay 

('ape  Barnabas 

llarlpor  of  Three  Saints 

Misofski  Cape 

Doulili'  Headed  Point,  Nazlkak  Island 

Chachkak  Village 

East  point  of  (ieese  Islands 

Cape    'rlnlty,  east  point  of  Trinity  Islaiuls 

South  Cape  of  Trinity  I.ilauds 

North  Point  of  t'kauiok  lu-  Clilrlkolf  Islands 

Cape  Tolsl<il,  south  point  of  Ckrinuik  Island 

Village  in  southwest  cove  of  Ckauiok  Island 

Kaigtti'  Kwk I 

"  Maguetie  declination 
I  From  Coast  Survey  1"' 


Latitmle. 


o       / 

60  05.  C 

.■iO  tJ.  0 
W  22.  0 
58  52.  5 


5S  ,57.  0 
58  54.  0 

.58  ;w.  5 

,58  ;t2.  0 
58  211.5 
.58  21.  6 
58  09.  5 
iW  08.  fl 
58  06.3 
58  01.3 
57  50. 5 
57  .55. 8 
.57  .5:1.  0 
57  50.  2 

.57  49.  B 

57  48  00 
57  47  45 
.57  47      38 

.57  49  ;iO 

.57  40  57 

,57  42  36 

57  :io  47 


.57  34.  0 

.57  25.  7 
.57  2:1.  5 
57  2?  a 
.57  14.3 
.57  10.0 
,57  IHi.  8 
57  WI.O 
.50  .5;l. « 
50  50.  7 
56  45.  8 
56  3.5.  3 
.56  24.  0 
,53  54. 9 
55  4.5.  6 
55  4f,.  0 
.55  ,50.  0 

liaerved)  : 
Brings  and 


Longitude. 


153  07. 5 

1.54  11.0 
1.53  30 
153  16 

148  44 


151  5:t.  0 

1.52  19.  7 

ir.2  19.  5 

lr.2  13,5 

1.52  31.5 

151  49.9 

151  52 

152  01.  8 
1.52  17.0 
152  41.) 
152  39. 1 
152  31.0 
1.52  -JO.  0 
1.52  C.  0 

1.52  1«.  1 

1.52  18  56 
1.52  20  .57 
152  21      59 


1.-2 
152 
1.52 
1.52 


1.52  05.  0 


1.52 
1.52 
1,52 
1,52 
1,52 
1.5:1 
1.5;t 
1.5:t 
1.53 
1.5:1 
1.5:1 
151 
I.Vi 
1,55 
l.\5 
1.55 

IPIIl'.l, 
.nctlon 


14.0 

:ifl.0 
1:1.0 

.5(1.  6 
48.0 
2.5.  5 
■  4.0 
34.  2 
48.0 
48.0 

5:1. 0 

12  0 
24.  (I 
28.0 
•>4.0 

:i«.n 


Auth,)rilies. 


Teljenkotf. 

rstingotf. 

Vancouver,  Tcbeukoff's  Atlas. 

Vani'ouver,  Vasilietf. 

United  Stat«8  Coaat  Survey. 


Bcnzenian  and  others. 

llcn/.cniun  i.Md  ollicrs. 

Ben/enian  ami  others. 

Vasilietf. 

Vasilietf. 

llen/.euiau. 

Viiiic  luver,  Ben7,eniai«. 

Benzeniiin. 

Miirashat. 

Arehlnuimlrltolf. 

Beiueinan. 

Archiuiandritfiff. 

Archiuuindrilotf, 

United  States  C,     (t  ise.i-ey,   (ap- 

pr(»xiinale) 
United  Slates  Coast  Survey. 

United  Statei  Coast  SiirN'oy.* 
United  Stalls  Coast  Survey. 
United  Slates  Coast  Sur'ey. 

United  Slates  Coast  Sur.'  y. 
United  Slates  (loast  Survey. 
United  Slates  Coast  Survey. 
United  Slates  Coast  Si;-vey,  (ap- 

proxinuite.) 
United  Stales  Coast  Suriey,  (ap- 

proxilnat.'.) 
,\rchiniiindritoif. 
ArcbiniaurlritotV. 
Archiuiauiliiliiir. 
.Vrchinuindritotf. 
A'ancouver.  Arcbiinandritoiy. 
I.isianskI,  Arcliiiiiandrilort'. 
Atcltiuiandrilolf. 
Vari(!ouver,  .\rchlmandritoll'. 
Arci'iuiauilrilotV. 
Arcbiinanitritotr 
VaiKiouvcr,  .\rehinuindiilip(f. 
Ari'lihnandrilofl'. 
Kashevariiir  anil  I.iudeulierg. 
Kaslievaroir  and   l.iudeulii  rg. 
ICaslievarotr  and   Liiideiibevg 
Kuklicvaroir  and  Liudeiiherg. 


August  98,  1867. 
of  Arrhlmandiiliilf 


208 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 
List  of  the  geographical  positions— Continneii, 


Luculity. 


Sontli  iBlnmliif  Uiiiiilrn  Rmup , 

Atl'iyiik  Inliiiiil,  mirtliii'ii  of  Liuiidun  group 

South  jiiiliil  Kiiiliak  IhIiiiiiI 

Ctiiio  ^Mituk,  west  point  of  Alitak  iJ«y 

Low  Cupi.',  Alitak  Bay 

Cajn*  Icolik 

Karlook  Village,  inoiitli  of  Karlook  Kiver 

C'upi'  I'yak,  uoutbwvat  iMjiut  of  Uyak  Bay 

Cniif  Tlxat 

Capt'  U;:a'.iik,  Koilln»ru  Strait 

Itanplii'ii'y  l.'api",  Noiilifiii  Strait 

Sti'(^|>  < 'ujir,  Afo.^iiak  Ixlaml 

Capi'  ruraiuaiiof,  Afogimk  Ihlauil 

Black  Cape,  Afoguak  lulauil 

boutiikast  suoueh  ok  ai-ahka  i'ex1n;(ula,  and 
mlvnuh  off  it. 

SoiitboaHt  point  Aau):lij)aiilik  Island 

Villaui'  north  HiiU-  Kukak  Bay 

CaiM'  Atiit('ha;;l)ik 

Kutniiiy  V'illagi',  on  Katniay  Itivor  and  Bay 

CajH-  KulMi;;akrtiU 

Mount  liolHcharolf 

Oiay  I'lak 

Txhuiih iunayak  IVak 

A U(f Milk  Ilock 

Ciipr  Iviiuiliut 

Sutkhuiu  VilhiKo,  KidiuHk  iiay 

EiiM  point  Aiuknlik  iHland 

Tulion'oiiint  I'oint 

Itklil  i-'i\ir,  iNiBt  Hidoof  Kuioukta  Bay 

Aiu-liorauo  Kuprianoil' 

(-'alio  Ivauotf 

AVi'Bt  point  of  Korovimakl  lalaud 

TTn^a,  Xart  ti  Harbor,  hoiiao  ou  weat  aboru  of  bay, 

I'nj;a  Inland 

ViUaKo  in  Di'larotf  Bay,  HoiithcaHt  iHilnt  of  TTuga 

Inlund 

Js'urth  point  Tia^khinak  Inland 

Kouth  itoint  of  Nuniiik  iNlaiid 

Khiunaciu  Dank,  40  fathoum,  rural  and  aand,  35 

niib'H  rant  of  xouth  point  of  Xuuiak  Inland 

Soutli  |ioint  of  llird  Inland 

Mountain  Capo,  nontb  ond  of  Najiay  Inland 

Si'ai  I'oint 

Village  Tavloir,  hi  PavlofT  Bay 

Villi  ano  TavhitV,  wont  niilo  of  I'aohifl'  Bay 

■>  illimc  lUlkollnki,  (Siiuirrcl,)  wiutli  of  Jloiiridui- 

kotr  Hay 

Annif^itt  Inland 

(.'a\M>  I'l-tor,  wont  onil  Ijaninikh  Inland  and  Harbor 

Catio  I'ankotf,  nonlli  point  of  rkalok  Inhiinl 

Capi'  Khal)utt-h,  rant  )Hiint  of  nonttt  ontranre  to 

IiHiuot:ikl  Strait  or  False  Pa»B 


Latitude. 


55  21 


53  10.  8 

54  55.  0 

54  au.o 

54  38 

.M  40, 5 

r.4  51. 0 

53  ao.o 

53  SO.  1 

55a«.0 

.53  0.5.  0 

.54  5'J.4 

54  IW 

,54  38.5 

Longitude, 


56  U4.3 

LW  31,  5 

SO  15.0 

150  20.0 

50  45.  0 

154  09. 0 

50  52.  a 

1.54  17.6 

rm  5!i.o 

1.54  28.0 

r,i  17.0 

154  42. 3 

57  34.  0 

154  24.  5 

57  .50.  0 

153  51. 1 

57  53.8 

153  38.  7 

57  .58.  0 

153  12.0 

58  oa.3 

IM  20.  0 

.58  lilO 

15:104.0 

58  17.0 

1.52  .57.  3 

58  85.  0 

152  4.5. 0 

58  30 

13,1  3.3 

58  21 

134  05 

58  04. 7 

154  19.7 

58  02.  0 

154  52.  8 

57  .52.0 

153  00.0 

57  30.  0 

135  55,0 

57  20.  0 

150  10.0 

,57  05.  0 

156  35.  0 

50  ,54 

1.56  21 

50  33.2 

157  26,  0 

50  31.  9 

1.57  28,  0 

50  18.0 

157  24 

r>0  1,5.0 

157  40.0 

55  58.0 

158  27.0 

55  4.5.  8 

1.59  15 

.55  3:1,  0 

159  ;)0 

53  2,5.2 

100  23,3 

lliO  49 

100  27 
1,59  13 
159  :!l 

*158  30 
159  40 

100  00 

101  09 
161  31.3 
161  49,0 

161  .54.0 

162  .V).  0 
162  .52 

102  ,58.  0 


54  48.5  163  12.0 

-  Approxloate. 


Authorities. 


Tobeiikoff '8  Atlas. 

Kashi'voroll'  and  LiudoubrrK. 

Arebiinand;'itott'. 

Anhiuiandritoff. 

Ari'himandritotr. 

Archinnindritotr. 

Archiinaudritotr. 

Arcldinandritotf. 

Anbii.iandritiitr. 

Arcbiniaudritotl'. 

Bcnzonniu. 

Vaailietr. 

Vasilieff. 

Vasilliff, 


Tebcnkotfs  Atlaa. 
Tob<'nkotl''n  Atlas. 
Vaniliflf  and  otluTS. 
Vanilictf  and  others. 
Vaniliflf  and  otIuTa 
Vanilit'if  and  others. 
Vasilii'lf  and  otlo'rs. 
Vaniliotf  and  others. 
Tebenkuirn  .Vtlas. 
Vanilielf  and  othurs. 
Voronkotfnki 
Tel(enkoll"n  Atlas. 
Kurit7.in  and  otlo'rs. 
Kiirit/in  and  others. 
Voronkiill'ski. 
Viinilietf  and  otbi>rH. 
Kushevorolfnki  ami  oth*4'H. 

Teboukoirn  Atlas. 

Kanbevorolt'nki  and  others. 
Kanhevorotlnki  and  others. 
Kashevuroll'ski  and  others. 

fnitf  '  States  Coast  .Survey 
Kanlievorollnki  and  others. 
Kashevorotlnki  and  'ithers. 
Kwit/.iii  and  liardner. 
Kwit/,in  and  (titrdner. 
Kwitziu  and  (iiirduur. 

Kwitcin  and  Ganlner. 
KashevoruStiki  :ind  ol'.iei'O. 
Vaololi. 
Tebenkotra  A  las. 


Voronkoflski. 


.^<ilM 


AL^VSKA  COAST  TILOT. 

list  of  the  geogra}>hical  positiotw — Coutiimed. 


209 


Locality. 


ALELTIAN  I9LAMIS. 

TTniiiiak  I«lriiiil,  (Japn  laaiiotxki,  8onlliwi'»t  point 

of  oiitriiiit'n  to  Isauotuki  Strait  or  Falsi'  I'aits  ■ . . 

Chim^  Lazari'l',  Hoiitlieatit  iMiiiit  of  islaiul 

Capo  Kiti'himk,  oouth  point 

KliitkhukCai  ■.  Uiiimak  Strait 

■\Vr8torn  Head,  ,,niniak  Strait 

Capo  Mordvinotr 

Ki'd  t'ri'fk  Point,  nortliwpst  point  of  outrancn  to 

Iminotski  .Strait  or  V'nUf  I'aHS 

Clmnofl'  Strait,  l«nnot»ki  SI  rait 

Volcano  SlwHlialdin,  s,'."'!  ft .  (,  (snow-covcrcd) 

I»nuot«ki    or   Volcano  Devastation,   3,533  feet, 

(snow-covered) 

Cod  Hank  olf  Krinitiiin  iHlandn,  south  '.\j°  east 

from  I'l'ak  of  Ukauiok    Islands,  .W  fathoms 

^avel  and  sand 

t  Kemarkahle  jieak  near  northeast  point  of  Uka- 

mok  Islaml,  Strait  of  Unimak 

tKast  point  of  TJkamok,  soutli   side  Strait  of 

tTnimak 

North  Cape  of  Akau  Island,  southwest  point  of 

TTnlnnik  Slr.iit 

SimtheasI  Cape  of  TiRalila  Island 

Sijiauh  (jajie,  north  end  of  Akutun  Island 

M)iitii  Cape  Akutnn  Inland,  north  side  Akntai. 

«!!«!< 

Hia'V  Cape  Unalga  Islai  d,  south  s'''.e  ^'-uiun 

?,  ;n;t 


Latitude. 


5^1  47. 4 
54  a.').  5 
54  20 
.54  SI. ! 

54  :io.  0 

M  47. 0 


.M  115.  9 

!i3  oa.  0 

54  48.  0 

54  3P.0 


53  38 

54  10.  9 

54  12.0 

54  in.  5 
54  03.  5 
54  12.2 

.54  01.5 

.53  !>8.  8 


UXALASKA  miOlf. 

■'     :\\;:an  Island,  south'  ni-i  point  'leaver  Bay 

\':  n      1  of  Cdan  !kli  SI  ail,  to  Beavei  Hay  ... 
-     tl.ern  extremity  of  icef  olf  Cape  Kiiugitnk.. . 

1   itranee  to  lliluluk  Bay 

Southwest  point  of  I'nala.ska 

Korlh  Cape  Chi'rnoll«k i  Bay 

Crown  Cr*      I'Tth  point  of  Crown  Bay 

I^wf  Ca.       

Cascade  on  do  Cape  Cheerl'ul 

IJ(.'hthonse  aw. on  ncnth  head  of -Vmaknak  Island 
United  Stilt      (,'oaat  Survi  >•  astronomical  station, 

ITlachta  'larhor,  I'nalaska  Bay 

Oreek  Church,  lUoolwik  villau'c,  Fimlask!"  Bay. . 
"ap"  K.dekhta,  ^.lOO  feet  hinh,  east  point  of  Cna- 

lasV.'   Bay 

Volcano  Makiishin,  5.691  foot 

•  Volcano  Islam'  itogosloff  or  Providence,  about 

1  ,OUU  feet  high 


L'MNAK    ISI.AXII. 


.53  .52. 3 
K\  42. 5 
.53  10 
53  93.5 
.53  18.7 
.Vl  2(i.  0 
5;l  4.5 
53  ,50.  0 
,5:1  58  58 
.■n  55      38 

>1  53      58 
.53  52      39 

.54  00.  a 
,V!  52.  5 

53  52.0 


LonRitude. 


Authorities. 


1«3  M.O 

VoronkotVski. 

....,  .JO  J 

VoronkotVski. 

164  33 

Voronkoll'ski, 

Tehenkotra  Atlas 

11)4  47.0 

Voronkollski. 

111.-.  01.  5 

VoronkotVski. 

• 

IIM  3f.  7 

ICuritzin. 

16.1  :«.  0 

Kiiritzin. 

16:1  24.  5 

VoninkolVski. 

IIRI  .59.  5 

Kiiritzln. 

164  32.0  Kurit7,in. 

104  12  *  Fnited  States  Coast  Survey. 

104  47. !  Becchey. 

164  4,5.0  Kuritzin. 

165  34.0  Kuritzin. 

164  57  TelMukotra  Atlas. 

165  54.0  Knrit/.in. 

165  59.2  Kurilzin,  TehenkofT:;  Atlas. 

166  03.0  Kurilzin. 


166  00. U  Knril/.in. 

100  07.5  Til)enkotl-s  Atlas. 

166  42  Kuril/in. 

166  49  Sarllchcir. 
IG7  3.1.0  Kurilzin. 

167  17.5  Sarililutr. 

166  49.  5  'rclienkotra  .\tlas. 

ion  '-..I  Kurilzin. 

lliO  32  47       '  Ciiiled  Slates  Coast  Survey. 

160  27  44       rnitcii  States  Coast  Survey. 

16(1  27  .52        nulled  Slates  Const  Sllivey. 

1C6  29  06        Cniled  Stales  Coast  Survey. 

154  18.7  rniled  Slates  Coast  Survey. 

ICK  43  Tclienkotrs  .Mlas. 

161  39.0  Ivuritzin. 


167  .^5. 0 
107  46. 0 


Kurilzin. 
Kuritzin. 


Capo  'I'anuakli.  norlii  point  of  tlie  island .53  31.0 

Tulikskaya  Peak,  near  I  lie  nortli  end  of  Island..       ,53  2;i.O 

*  .\piiroxiinate. 

t  'I'lic'^i'  posit  ouB  cannot  he  reconciled  ;  the  peak  ..nould  be  ahout  a  .  'lie  south  of  the  cape. 

;  .loiiiina  Bonoslovu  (SI.  .lohu,  the  tlieohmian.' 

iil 


210 


ALASKA  COAST  I'lLOT. 

Lint  of  the  geographical  positions — CoiitimuHl. 


I,OCnlltj-. 


VmTiildfr  Ti'iik 

Vmiiiliitl'  Isliinil.  I'aNtiTii  pfilnt 

Ciipi'  SafTJikli,  MdUthwt'Mt  point  of  II. 
Siiuth  |M)iiit  nf  Saiiial^ii  iHlaiid 


Latitnde. 


ISLANDS  OP  TIIK   HOIIl  V01.CAN0KS 


Pi'nk  on  Kairatnii  iHlainl 

I*cuk  on  Clni^iiiatlak  iMlanil 

Hoiith  point  (.'Imi^inadak  iNlaiu) 

NoiilicaMt  peak  Vunaska  Inlanil 

RontliwcMt  poak,  Volcano,  VtinaHka  Inland  . 

('lia^ncl  I.slanil,  iniitiUc  of  pt-ak 

SIlil<l':'  of  Anmclita  iHland 


Ai'inrlita  Strait 

Hit^nani  Inland,  iioitliraHt  point 

Hi^'nam  ImIuioI.  HonlliwiHt  point  A  nnnlita  Strait.. 
Kaxt  point  fit'  Ann-lla  iMland.  a  liitrli  vot-k  of!  it  . . . 
HontliwoKt  jHiint  .Svctf'ImikotF  Itti.v,  Hontli  Mido  of 

Ann-lia  Inland 

AVi-nt  point  of  Ann-liu  iHlaml,  Amelia  Strait 

Idalnk  Toint,  middle  of  nortli  nidt*  of  Aniolia 

Inland 


ATKIIA  ini.Axi). 

CnpK  Ftalod,  nontlnant  pi>inl  of  Atklia  Inland, 
A  India  Strait 

AnrhoraKO  in  Xa/.arn  Bay,  naHt  fiidn  of  Atklia 
Inhunl 

Cajir  'I'adlnkh,  notitli  Hide  of  inland 

f'apt'  Ki;^nn,  wont  point  of  inland 

Uroiid  ('apt',  north  niilf  of  inlantl . 

Sail   Inland 

Kiiii  Toint,  noutli  point  of  Koroveimki  Bay 

l*i-irHt'n  lionnc,  Ni(Milnki  viUajfc,  KornvcnHki  Ba.v. 

Capo  Koiovonnki 

Koroveimki  IVak,extinet  voliiano  4,853  foot  high. 

Kortli  ('apt.' 

Kant  Capo 

Kunionjfi  Inlatnl,  middle 

Swallow  Inland,  niidille 

()}^inodakli  Inland.  Atkha  .it rait 

Sitkliin  Peak,  Sitkliin  Inland,  rxtinet  volrano 
.^(lUI  feet  iMcIl 

AllAKIl    ISLAMI. 


Capo  Ada^dakli,  north  point  of  inland 

Ca)H>  KatzlKlkhakh.  nonlh  point  of  inlanil  . 
Capu  Vakhakh,  nonthwent  point  of  inland. 

KAX.VdA   IHI.AN'll. 


Northwest  CaiM',  Kanaini  Inlanil 

Kanaifa  Peak,  near  ?sorthwent  Cape 

Cape  Clinn,  nontli  |>oint  of  Kanaka  Inland 

Peak  of  .S*'a.otter  Inland,  extinrt  r<dritno  vlth 
marked  tirraien 


r<\  H.O 

a  00.  ;i 

.12  4."«.  5 

.V2  41.0 


52  57. 0 

ra  4.5. 0 

.52  40.  9 
.52  40.  ,5 
.52  38.  0 

52  an.  0 


.52  3.5.  5 
,52  2.5.  0 
,52  IH.0 
.52  Wi.  2 

.52  02.  3 
:>2  06. 5 

,52  08. 7 


.53  10.  .5 

51  .58.0 
.■>2  00.  0 
.52  Ofl.  5 
.52  10.0 
.52  11.0 
.52  17.3 
.52  IH.  ,5 
.52  23.  S 
.52  2,5.  3 

52  le.  0 
.52  13.  n 
,52  12.0 
51  58.0 

.5-J  03.  5 


.'.2  01.0 
51  31.  5 
51  32.3 


51  .57.0 
.51  54.5 
51  38.0 

51   5.5.3 


Longitude. 

AnthoritieH. 

0         '           " 

1(18  0!t.  0 

K  iritzin. 

168  00 

Knritzin. 

168  40.  0 

Kiiritzin. 

168  57.  0 

Knritzin. 

IGO  i!5.  0 

Knritzin. 

169  21.0 

Knritzin. 

1G»  44.  0 

Knritzin. 

no  12.0 

Gnvrilotr. 

170  21.5 

On\Tilotr. 

170  47.0 

(Javriloir. 

170  .52.  0 

fiaviiloff. 

179  09.  0 

Incentrem  and  otliei-n. 

172  2.5.0 

Iii^entrein  and  othern. 

172  40.7 

Salamatotf  and  uthern. 

173  10.5 
173  51.3 

Salamatolf  and  nthern. 

173  19.  0 

173  54. 7 

SaUmatoff  and  nthern. 

174  00.  5 

Salamatotf  and  others. 

IV4  42.0 

In^entrein  and  othern. 

173  40.  0 

Inp'ntrein  and  nthern. 

174  4.5. 1 

IiiKintreni  and  othern. 

174  31.5 

Inf£eHtrem  and  others. 

174  22.  5 

Vasilietr. 

174  17 

Ktolin.  (Jilison. 

174  21.7 

favloir. 

174  112.0 

I'avlotr. 

173  .58.  7 

I'avlolV. 

173  48.5 

I'avloir. 

175  00.  8 

Injientreni  n!id  others. 

175  a«.  5 

In^entreni  and  othern. 

175  21.  S 

Tebenkoli's  Allan. 

176  06.  4 

IncoBtrem  and  others. 

176  36.3 

SalamntofT  and  tithera. 

176  46.  7 

Salamatotf  and  others. 

177  Ofl.0 

Salamatulf  and  othi'i's. 

177  19 

Salamatotf  and  others. 

177  16 

Sahimatoll'  and  others. 

177  36.  5 

Salamatotf  and  others. 

177  30.5 

Salaniatoff  and  othera. 

' 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 
Lint  of  the  (fcographical  pmUiom — Continui'd. 


211 


Localily. 


Latitude. 


TANAfi.V   ISl.AXr). 

Ciipn  Surtakli,  iiiHtlic  list  iioiiit  of  idlatid 

Pniiit  Saxlikh,  sniitli  iidiiit  of  isluiiil 

jVii<-liiirn«e  in  Prido  of  KuHHia  Bay,  west  giilo  of 

iHlaiid  

Noitli  ("np<)  of  Gorolol  (Burnt)  Mond,  volcano, 

very  hijih 

S...itli  CiiiH!  of  Gorolol  (Burnt)  Island,  volcano, 

very  liiKli 

Illakli  Inland,  Tauaga  Strait 

Amatignakli  laland,  higlicst  part 

North  point  of  Remisopokli,  or  tlie  Seven  Peaked 
Mountain.    Active  volcano  on  tliia  Inland 


■West  Cape  of  SemUopokli  Islaud,  1,411  feet  liigli. 

Sugarloaf  Peak,  soutb  point  of  r(,..i-'   •  700  feet 
liigh 


.■ii  sao 

,11  34.0 

51  17.0 

51  M.O 

51  4^.5 

51  2B. « 

5  51  19.0 

>  51  la.  0 

53  03.0 

(  51  57.  5 


last  Cape  of  Amitkliltka  Island. 


Capo  Ptikhi,  west  point  of  Aniitkliitka  Island, 
1,008  feet  high 


Anchorage  in  Kiriloff  Boy,  north  side  of  Amit- 
khitka  Island 


South  Point,  Constantine  Bay,  northeast  part  of 
Aniitkliitka 


Sonth  Point,  Little  SitkUin  Island. . 
Peak  on  Little  Sitkhin  Island 


51  54. 0 


East  point  of  R<it  Island. 


Peak  of  Dn-idoff  Isl  md 

Peak  of  Khoostoff  Island,  1,873  feet  high. 


Southwest  Peak  of  Chugul  Islaud. 


Middle  of  Tanadok  Island. 


Northeast  Capo  of  Cin-at  Kysa  Island,  1,987  feet 
high 


Kysa  Bay,  mouth  of  stream  east  side  of  Island. . . 
Southwest  Cape  of  Kysa  Island 


East  Capo  Buldlr  Island,  ?')i  feet  high. 


J  51  94.2 
i  51  30. 0 

^51  38.0 
(  51  37.  0 

,  51  25.  5 
i  51  30.  0 

r  51  S4.  0 
I  51  34.  0 

J  51  54.  5 
J  51  55.  5 

51  58.0 

J. 51  40.0 
J  51  37 

51  .W.  6 

53  08 

r  54  07 
i  51  58.  0 

J  51  5(1.5 
I  Si  00. 0 

J  59  11.0 
(  53  10.  0 

,  51  1)9.  1 
i  53  03. 0 

J  61  53 
I  53  01.  0 

/53  34 

i  .53  94 


West  point  Alaid  Island,  of  the  Slmltkhl  group, 
818  feet  high 


Northeast  Cape  Agattu  Island. 


,53  45. 4 
4 


J  ,53  45. 
I  53  45, 

53  97.  0 


L4Migitude. 


177  38.0 

177  50.0 

178  03.  0 
178  48.0 

178  44.0 

178  99.5 

179  08.  ."■• 

179  05.  0 

180  39 
180  30.5 
180  94 

180  91.5 
180  10.0 

IH)  99.  5 

180  97.  0 

181  )ii.  0 
181  08.0 

180  45.0 
180  41 

180  38.0 

180  37.  0 

181  31.5 
181  14.8 

181  98.0 

181  43.0 
181  93 

181  49.9 
181  41 

181  ,57 

181  37.0 

183  09.5 

188  09.  0 

189  99.  4 

183  10.0 

182  34. 0 

183  19.5 

189  51 
189  94.  0 

184  11 

184  10.4 

180  09.  5 

185  37.0 

186  94 


Authoritii'H. 


Siilaiiiuli>n'  and  others. 
8»l;iniul(iir  anil  ollieis. 

Salamatoli  and  others. 

Salainatofl'  and  ol  tiers. 

Halaniatnir  and  others. 
Salainatoff,  Gibson. 
(t:'„o,ii. 
Saluinatotr. 

Zari'nibo,  Gibson. 

Gibson. 
Klinkofstroni. 

Gibson. 
Klinkofstroni. 

Gibson. 
Klinkorstrom. 

Gibson. 
Klinkol'strom. 

Gibson. 
iTitstroiiium. 

Gitison. 
Kliiikol'slrom. 

Gilmoii. 
Tebeiikotrs  Atlas. 

Giiisoii. 

Gibson. 
TebunkolTs  Atlas. 

Gibs<in. 

Gibson. 

(iibson. 
Klinkofstrom. 

Gibson. 
Klinkofstrom. 

Gibson. 
(Micniol". 

GiliHon. 

liigcstreni  ami  others. 

Giiison. 

Ingcsireto  and  olliers. 

Gitison. 

Ingestreiii  ami  utiiers. 

Gitison. 
Etoliu. 


Ucnzemuu  and  uthera. 


212 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 
Lixt  of  the  geoffrapMcal  positions — Continued. 


Liicalitv. 


Cnpo  Snlmkt),  HnutliciiHt  itnint  uf  A^iittii  Inland. . 
AV't'Hl  r'ajH'  iii"  Ajiuttii 


ATTU  ISLAND. 


£n8t  t'aiw. 


Tc'liltelingoff  Harbor,  flagstnf. . 


CH|m  CnmM,  iiDrtliwfHt  part  of  island,  3,2^11  ft'ct 
I'iKl' 


*  Caiw  Wrangcll,  west  iHiluf  of  tlip  ixlaiid. . . 
MusHAcro  Toint,  wrst  itide  of  iuossncro  Itey. 


NOIITII  COAST  (IF  AI.AHKA  rPIMNHLI.A    AXI>  WKHl 
HIIOIIKH  OF  AMBKICA  TO  TlIK  AIICITC  OCEAN. 

Point  Kmittzin,  iiortlicaMt  jtoint  of  tlio  ontraiu'c 

to  iHanotHki  Strait,  or  I'alHo  I'usH 

Hontli  point  of  .Viiiult.  iHiand 

('aju'  (ilaKt'Ootr 

KaHt  I'oiiit  of  Wolf  Inland,  Miillvr  Bay 

C'a|M'  S4>niavin 

Ulaik   IVak 

CiiiM*  .Strogoinifl' 


IIRIKTOI.  HAY. 


Vn}w  MtMisoliikofl* 

ilout  li  of  Sulinia  Ui viT 

Mouth  of  r^atdiak 

Villa);(>  Pon^oik,  numtliof  Xakurk  River 

llonlli  of  Ivvitobak  Kiver 

t'aiM'  ICtidiii 

Kort  Ali'xandi'r,  on  Xutcliagak  River 

t'.iiM)  Consttintine 

Kayatcliok  Inland,  niiddlo 

C'aint  Capo,  sontlioaHt  point  llagcnmoister  iHl'd. 
Caiw  Newculiuiu , 


Kortliwest  point  of  Ooo<lncw«  Bay 

Village  Cliinyagniiout,  Knskoquinu  River. 
Capo  Koninnzofl 


NOIITON  BOl'XP. 


■\VinI  point  Stnnrt  Island 

South  p«unt  Stuart  iMland 

lliKlii'xl  point  of  .'<lnarl  Island. 


Fort  St.  Mii'luK'l 


Factory  at  the  mouth  of  L'naluklit  River. 


Latitude. 


M  iil.O 


t  .I!!  .11.  6 
\  M  M.  fi 

I  .IS  .Vi.  7 
(  ,'i:i  ,'.6. 1 


5  .la  09.  4 
\  M  (W.  .■> 

•  .12  ."iC.  0 


i  .VJ  .17.  0 

c  .ia  40.  ( 

( .ia  4f.  t 


.M  04.  i 

fi5  1J,1.  0 

,1.1  14.  H 

.w  m>.  7 

.Ki  ai.  7 

M  ;i.i.  a 

.10  48 


.17  30.  4 

.17  M 

.in  PA  7 

.1H  4'i  8 

oil  DO.  0 

,1t<  >.  0 

:>x  .17. 1 

5S  -U.  8 

58  3ro 

.18  ;i.v  0 

5«  4'AO 

.10  03.  a 

^  .10  54 

I  60  OH 

(ii  sao 


SI  ,^1. 5 
c:(  :i().  0 
ttl  xi.  0 

J  KI  vc.  0 

((KI  38 

;  (13  53.  6 

i  63  5:1      33 


Longitude. 


180  31 
18ti  54 


ISfl  3(1.7 
IWi  1.1.0 

188  47. 3 
I8(i  311.  5 

187  94.  0 
18li  53.  0 

187  .34.  0 
187  08.0 

18f.  .1.1.  0 
180  35.0 


1.17  .18.  5 

1.17  48 

1.17  30.0 

1.17  01.4 

l.Vi  .18.  0 

158  Oti,  0 

1.V  18.4 

158  44.  0 

150  44.  0 

:.iO  48.0 

103  0.1.  0 

Uil  47.0 

161  43 

I«(  17 


AuthnritioH. 


llkl  1.1.0 

Stnninkoviti'Ii. 

163  01.5 

Slaniiikovili'h. 

163  .'lO.  7 

Staniiikovittii. 

16U  41.0 

Stanlnkovilih. 

1(K)  113.  7 

Staniukovit'h,  Botscharoff. 

1.18    16.  6 

IliitM'harotr. 

1.18  46 

Khoiuh>hiuo. 

Bi>n?.c>nian  and  others. 
B<-nzen)au  aiul  others. 


Gibson. 
Ktoliu. 

Gibson. 
Etolin. 

Giiison. 

Bouieinan  and  others. 

Gibson. 
Ikuizeuian. 

(til»son. 

ik'uzenuin  an<l  others. 


.Staniukovitrh. 
Klioudohine. 
Stauiiikoviti'h. 
.Staninkoviteh,  Khoudobiiie. 
Wraiigel,  rstiogotf,  ami  otiu'rs. 
Wrnncii,  fstiogoll',  and  others. 
Wrangel,  t'Htiogoll',  and  others. 
Wrangel,  I'stlogotf,  and  utiiers. 
Vasilietf  and  others. 
VaHJlieff,  ('(M»k,  and  others. 
Vasiliefl',  CcM)k,  and  others. 

Khramtchpiiko. 

Russian  Admiralty  Chart  No.  6. 

Russian  MS.  Chart. 

Ktoliu. 


169  33.  0 

Telieukoir. 

163  l:l  II 

K.'ll.tt. 

163  31.  .1 

I'l'l koti: 

161   .M.O 

Kill.tl. 

Uil   44 

/agoskiii. 

160  40.  0 

Ka.*4hi'vai'oll 

16(1  :io 

16 

iCagoskin. 

*  The  westernmost  land  of  the  tTnited  Stntos. 


ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 

Lint  of  the  geographical  poHitions — Coiitimunl. 


213 


Localit)-. 


BcHborongh  Ixlancl,  miilille... 

C'n|ii'  IK'uMkIi 

CiiIH"  Darliy 

KiHk.v  Caiii',  Giiluvniii  Bay  . . 
Caiw  Nome 


UBIIUIKO  BTHAIT. 


Azgiak,  or  Sleilgo  Island,  ml cliUo 

Capo  Emlncy 

Capo  Spfiiccr,  Kavilak  Day,  Port  C'laroncn 

Cnpc'  Niklitu,  or  I>iliiii)  of  WaloH,  wc«tprii  piilnt 
of  tlm  maiiilaiicl  of  llie  rnitcil  States  anil  of 
Noitli  AiiK'iioa 


AltCTlC  OCEAN,  KOTZEIUE  S01'X1>. 


Cape  SpanberR 

Pi'ak  of  Cliainlsso  Islnnil,  231  fpi't 

Cape  llIoMHom 

Cape  Knizcustoni 

Point  llopo 

Capi'  Mslinrno,  h  I!)  feot  

Capi'  llcimfort,  (vein  of  loal) 

Icy  C'api' 

Point  Itelihcr 

Point  Harrow, highi'stlntitmloofthcrnitid  States 

Tangi'nt  Point,  last  capo  of  Di'aflu  Inlet 

Capo  llalki't 

Mannini!  Point 

Demarcation  Point,  eastern  point  of  the  United 
St«tC8  on  the  Arctic  Oeean 

Ittandt  qf  the  Behring  Sea. 

ST.  OEOllfJE  ISLANTJ. 

■Waterfall  Cape,  or  southeast  point  of  the  island . 

East  CajK" 

■West  Capo 


Latitude. 


:  04  89. 0 


64  ;«) 
Ci  1«.7 


ST.  I'Afl.  AXD  ADJACENT  I8I.E8. 

Beaver  Isle 

WalniB  Isle 

Anchor  Cape,  south  point  of  St.  Paul  Island  . 


til)  43 
GO  a.-i 
m  49 

(17  (W 

m  til.  5 
m  m 
m  i:i 

70  20 

70  43 

71  27 
71  10 
70  49 
70  07.  5 

09  40 


34.3 
37  1 
3S.3 


•  57  03.  0 


North  cape  of  St.  Paul. 
West  cape  of  St.  Paul 


Ilitlhest  point  of  St.  Paul . 


|rr.7 

I  I  ,'i7 

,57 

I  \  57 


ll.S 

09.9 
OH.  0 
(Hi.  2 
10.4 
11.2 
10.2 
11.4 

09  n 


Longitude. 


I'i4  Oli.  fl 

nil  07.0 

04  22.  0 

Kit  24.0 

04  17.6 

1112  .KG 

«4  21.  0 

lli2  .Vi.  0 

G4  23.0 

1G5  0  J.  0 

IWi 

or. 

5 

KM!  m 

Ifili 

18 

lUO  47.  8 

1(17 

•li). 

2 

lfi3 

34 

IGl 

:o.o 

1112  24 

1U4 

37 

IGG  40 

ion  08 

iu:i 

34 

lUl 

40 

150  3« 

150 

15 

154 

50 

1.52 

IG 

143  42 

141 

07.  5 

109  31.  5 
1(19  27 
1(19  44 


170  19 
170  00 
169  49.  5 

169  34.  0 

170  12 
101)  54.  6 
170  00.  3 
i;u  19.3 
170  01.  I 
170  00.  4 
109  49  n 


Autlioiities. 


Khramtchenko, 

Kliranitchenko. 
Kliriiiiitcheiiko. 
'I'llielikotV  iliiil  others. 
Xi  iKukotr  unci  others. 


Peecltey's  Chart. 
Ik'eeliey's  t'lutrt. 
IJeeeliey's  Cliart. 
ISeediey's  Chart. 


Ileecbi  y's  Chart. 


Ilccdiey  and  others. 

Hi liey. 

IJei'chey  and  otliers. 
Ileechey  antl  otliers. 
Ueecliey  and  others. 
Ueediey  lUld  otliers. 
BiM'cliey  and  otliers. 
Beechey  and  others. 
Beechcy  and  others. 
Beediey  and  others. 
Beediey  and  others. 
Adniifalty  Chart  No. 
Admiralty  Cliart  No. 


2435. 
2435. 


Admiralty  Chart  No.  2435. 


ArdilniiindrltofT's  MS.  Chart. 
ArchiiiiaiMlritiill'M  .MS.  Ciuirl. 
Aicliiniiindiiloir's  .M.S.  Cliart. 


I 


Ardiinmndiiloffs  MS.  Chart. 

Ti'lH'iikolT. 

Archimandritofl's  MS.  Chart. 

Teiniikotr. 

Archimaiidriloir  s  MS.  Cliuit. 

Teheiikotr. 

Ardiiiiiiiiiiliitiiirs  IIS.  Cliiiit. 

Ardiiinaiidiiloll'x  MS.  cliiul. 

Tdiiiikiill. 

ArdMiiiandiiloir'H  MS,  Chart. 

Tduiikntr. 


214 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 
Lint  of  the  geographical  po8 a iom — Continued. 


Loonlily. 

Lnlltudc. 

Longitnile. 

Authoritir-n, 

BT.  MATHKW  AND  AlUACKST  \ii\.VJi. 
Piimiiflo  iHli*  'XV)  feet       

0       '          /' 

60  13.0 
60  18.0 
60  19.3 
00  .38.0 
60  44.0 

.TO  48.  0 
50  57.7 
60  11.5 
60  31 

64  58.5 

82  57.0 
63  17.0 
6:1  51.3 
63  20.  4 

63  00.  4 

63  05.  0 

65  38.  7 

65  40.  3 

J  65  .,8.  6 
I  65  47.  8 

6.5  51.2 

64  33 

64  23      30 
64  26      09 

66  03. 1 

0      /      // 
172  .34.5 
172  04.  0 
172  29.0 
172  40.  0 

172  52.  0 

106  13.0 
103  24 
167  07.  6 
105  30 

167  58.  0 

109  24.  5 

168  35.  0 
171  iit.  0 
171  33.0 

169  19.5 
l(i8  43.  8 

168  43.  7 
168  35.  2 

168  56.5 

168  58.0 

109  03.  7 
173  18      30 

173  96 
173  90 

169  43.  8 

Lutkc                 1   ' 

CaiH  I'piiuht,  MnntlifftHt  iH»iiit  of  St.  Muthew.... 
Biiunrlnat'  Trak,  I  :j,">()  ft'vt 

I.utko. 
Liitko 

Capo  (ilury  ui  KnHHiii,  north  point  of  St.  Matbcw. 

Liitkc. 

I'livllltf 

NUNIOOK  ISLAM). 

Capo  iKiifttif'fl',  flouth  point  of  iHland 

TaHilirfl; 
Ti'bi>iikott 'ti  Atliu 

CajM'  llo.vlr,  wctit  point  of  Nuni)M>k  iHlaml 

Capo  Ktolin,  north  point  of  Nnniook  iHland 

Peak  of  Ukivok  (or  King)  Island,  586,  750,  foet. . . 

8T.  IJlWllENCB  ISLAND. 

ViiMilicff. 

Ti>beuki>fl"8  Atlag. 
Khranitcbunko  luid  oihera. 

Pavloff. 

Plivldff. 

Tt'lK*nk«ff. 

Anchorago  off  Kiallagak  village,  near  Southoast 

Plivldff. 

Pavloff. 

II]O.MEI>K  IML.\M).S,  nKlIUlNG  BTIIAIT. 

ilopchpy. 
Bccchcy. 

Ailmiralty  Chart  No.  9435. 

MiiliUo  of  channel  bctwocn  thr  Woini'tU' Islamls, 
bring  tho  hnnudary  li"o  between  KnHHia  and 

nueeiA,  diomeue  islands. 

Tebcnkoff'B  Atlaa. 
Bpecilioy. 

Mount  Kinnicott.  2,:WJ  feet.  IMover  liay,  East 

rovcuufi    fton'ico,  AuguHt,  1863, 
AVvhtirin  Unlou  TflfgraiiUiu  Kx- 
peditfon. 

Lower  anchorairo  of  same 

icviTiiic    Horviic,  AiigtiHt,    1805, 
AVcHti'iii  Union  Tclt'grapliic  Ex- 
pedition. 
Lionti'nant  llaviH,  on  United  Statca 

rcvcnnp    mTvirr,    Angimt,  1865, 
AVi'Hteru  Union  T«Iegi-uphic  Ex- 
pedition. 
Beechi'y. 

APPENDIX  NO.  3. 

[From  LisiaiiBky'B  Voyngo  Roniul  the  World  in  1803,  1H04,  1S05,  niul  1800.] 
Vocabulary  of  the  lunguagcH  of  the  naticcH  of  Kadial;  Unalanla,  Kenai,  and  Sltla. 

NoTK. — III  the  vocabulary  of  I'lialaHka  tlio  IrtttTH  nh,  jtriiitftl  in  itali<-H,  aint  k  anil  n,  wlii'ii  dual  It-ltiTH.  NliiaiM  1h) 
half  mmnil  only.  Tin*  inhabitnntHof  tliiH  fount ry  have  thiH  Hhi^titurity  that  llicy  pronoiini-c  tin'  tli  with  tin- Hain<>  f'arllity 
ami  pri'ciM'ly  likn  thn  EukHhIi.  Tbu  Sitkaiis  ulmpr^'c  three  toncn  iu  every  wonl  nf  letiKth,  of  wliieli  the  inid(ll)>  one  ia 
the  lowent.  The  lanKuaK*'  "'  I^enal  Ih  very  ilifUciilt  to  ho  ex|ireiiHeil ;  1,  with  an  aHterUk  |>reeeiliii);  it,  Ima  u  Holt  of 
thinhli'  nniiiul,  not  unlike  the  ehickiuK  of  a  hen. 


£ii|;lliih. 

ITiialaaka. 

Kailiak. 

Kenal. 

.Sitka. 

A. 

Knntat. 

Aliatlmk  

llok       

SakoiKUi:  kiii/mm 

Machliirdnlckan 

Kukl6 

liail    

A  Hi^oliink 

THooheeltB 

SliakoimhkA. 

llakki 

jtaHiii       

Kulukak 

Aliulak 

Taeek. 

Jlalli 

Nallee. 

Ki'ochofhpt'da 

Odilok 

Hoh6 

IJiiv  tho    

Kanliiak 

Key. 

Ik'iir 

llank'tii 

H<M>ta, 

Neelehali 

Chok. 

llrUrvp 

Kleliakek  avnheeti. 

ItcHv 

Akt-<-hka 

SehhcKit 

Kayu. 

Kiialagcit. 

Altacne. 

Jlfiry 

Kakkil 

Ufrch  tri'i'     



THli(Mi*kia 

IHiuk 

Kali('h**lizffk 

TonnluHilialt'o 

TallaKht 

Kalli'tlil. 

lilnihliT    

Kt'(')iuak 

•Kl.lH 

KryheytKitkh 

KiHitaalthiu. 

Opit^aaie 

Sintlia 

AthiHiktee. 

llltH'k  (if  w<hh1 

KnWiak 

Bl(M«l 

Alfiok 

AUku 

Ta. 

Ulrtlii'tk 

I'eeiiatU't'k 

.SnkH. 

JU>\        

AiU'ktok  

Tanoliak  

TH'kanikna 

Hattnkoo. 

Tanii'ck 

Talik  valibat    

Chientooh. 

SnIikvat)M)leo 

Chak  Huk 

HtahontctnaHh 

HatektH.'uUeo. 

Eliatoolcckan 

llikaaktL 

Itnithor 

Kallii 

Ahhoiiuh. 

llrotlior,  I'ltlpHt 

Liitlian    

AiifzaltA. 
OniH^a. 

Teenhkliit* 

llrothcr,  youngoBt 

KepnAcen 

Iliahcimt 

Kaiikya. 

Uuy         

Uauaaliahoon. 

C. 

Ek-yak 

Vakoo. 

ClialuMMlak 

Shaliohnok 

SteheekeetaA 

Iiilhkit 

Siuihvu. 

(!iUch 

SiKMla 

Alnhit. 

Choal    

KiHilttHH'hihcnciika. 

Chi'ck 

OoUoohak 

Tftholdkok 

Shiukoosha 

Kavronh. 

*x 


'■nl 


216 


Kn^liHli. 


ClilM 

Chill 

Coini'  luTf 

<:"IM"'' 

('(tiifih 

(.'(iwiiril 

Cry 

Cmii 

Cut,  II 

Cut  tldwji 

D. 

])nnrn  

Dlll'klK'HH 

IJiiy 

Diiy,  to 

Devil 

Din 

I>iK 

1)i<lt 

Diior 

Down,  lay  it .. 

Drink 

Driiwu 

Dry 

DiukH 


Enttle 

Knr 

Eiirriii,^!! . 

EiirH 

Kurtli 

Kilt 

Kill! 

K«)IH 

Kniiiiio  ... 
Kvi'iiiiiK  . . 

Kyo 

KyeimtwH. 
KyiliilH... 
Kvt'H 


F. 

Fall,  let 

Fiin'woll 

FatliiT 

Fiitlii-r,  a  ffriitid. 
FiitliiTin-law... 

Fi'athiT 

Fiv.T 

Fiiiil 

FiiiC'rH 

Fiiitfor,  foil' 

FiiiKPr,  iiiidillc . . 
Fiii);er  ibinl 


ALASKA  COAHT  iMLOT. 

Vovahnlary  of  langdiujeH^  dr. — Continued. 


VnulAMka. 


InlakiH*!! 

Atlicnic-t'iialikmlu. 
KuiiiiiH)yiik 


ElmtooIIk 

Kithada 

(>(.tiai«U 

T(M'ii(HiiihaH('et«'6.. 
Tuohmta 


Aiiilmliailn 

KaliiliakaiuU'i'k. 

Aniictiak 

VaiuuM'ni'Iiiik ... 
Ahlikuy 


AN/iociheda 

Aykok 

AhiM-ln'k 

I;i/iaiHMm  aliiula.. 
IiUioutHiil 


Kcoi'lihecdft. 
Saktutdak  . . . 


Tolilok 

TontooMJlk 

Ncrtokilk 

TlHlt<HIHilk(>«'ll 

Chtkcko 

Kada 

AyiMtk 

Sainlitkainimhcdik  . 


AunoUak  KinAan 

Thak 

KamtrrnchiiAiit 
Thankah-ftcnce. 


n  , 


It-hefda  . 
An«.aii  .. 
Athak  ... 
Lat<dK-u . 


Saniakii 


Illiada 

At  ln»<)lUH'U  ... 

Chm)hvahuzik. 
Tt'eklok 


Kndiiik. 


OiMlzvcflhak 

Tiimi>Iiik 

Tykt'4'na  iniMMit . 

KaiKKiya 

KtMM'k 

MaiiiiKi  kcf'liiok. 
Kiya 


Kilt-btok... 
Chii^^idzii . 


SnHjja 

TaiiiU'^k  — 

Ahanok 

At;niiu1ivilk . 
Ya4k 


llahoo  

Piulita 

OiiiiiH't'k 

L*\v  hiio 

Tanhii 

KiM»tcn 

K<'on)it8ialifl  . 
SalioUieot 


Kooniahpak 

(.'hiimo 

Akhlectot 

Chiiidok 

NmmA 

Pt'odidio 

Ki't'iidok 

Manneot 

AiiMM'taduuk 

Akfitak 

Inhalak 

Kabluto 

K<K>nioo^af>nga . . . 
Inhaliok 


Ihtfthu 

Hvy-ey 

Adoga 

Almpa 

('hapKi«ft 

Clmoliikt' 

Oknrhvalitok  . 

IpHdim) 

SvaAn;;n 

TcekhA 

A};uolpaga  — 
Ahanov^aha . . 


Kt'imi. 


SliiirfM'likaliait 

ShIotiiiL'i* 

OontHa 

(MitKurhiHina 

KliaH 

ChaitHk 

Nrhah 

SlitatiKHdiuli .. 
IIiMitiiaanU  .o. 
KitHalK 


H<'rlliakl6  . . 
Cliaan. 

riiaaii 

THkaiiuaHh. 
(.'i:t>i-iiiiah  . . 
Koukfclia. . 


TiM»ka*k.... 
NiU'neeHnlU. 

*K*'('t-lHK>  ... 

TKataa'iiHii  . 

NlMdt'tHM)ll.. 

Tiiiaiiltga... 


Tonkh 

StHt*('l-m) 

StrtakiM'la 

XtH)lt*H'liaHtm't'l-<>o. 

AlHlumn 

*KtreoolU 


Kahul^cna  . 

IlaaltH 

8hnaHh-a. 
ShtMnt(K)k  .. 
Snoutootna.. 
iShnaHltaika . 


Jfootthilnceh.. 
Xo<ttht^e  tonsil  . 

T«mkta 

riiata 

ShpatHMU 


Xodinllii'osb  . 
Slutrtka 


Sitka. 


T(Miknnrtli('0, 
KakutatHahl. 
Atkuoii  kcht'knot, 

KMk. 

Ixkoliok. 
Kootlialtitchan. 
Kaati. 
OittMiliaiiaku  t. 

Athoot. 


Atleh. 
Kaitochcekcet 

Ktat. 

Ti*tTkiekaoa 
Ki'iit'iia. 
Kkalu-k. 


Voldt-haak. 

i'bavvt'ke. 

Itaiiiiit. 

(kitaliiH>. 

Kahtmk. 

Kauoliuu, 


Cliynk. 

KakiKik, 

AbkuoktMitlcc. 

Slcciikt'otaant'o. 

Hlia. 

lliiuialdi-no. 

Kvut4». 

Taa. 

Ilaiina. 

KaatftA. 

Kaokabeklion. 

Kavviik. 


Nnkpok. 

T('k(H)Mhkeo. 

Kycsli. 

Ahlcolhkoo. 

Ahgtw. 

Taoo. 

K(HitHiti-iet. 

Aknkooshee. 

Katlfk. 

Katli'honpo. 

Katlt'litloii. 

Katlaekakoo. 


MMMMMiili^B 


I 


ALASKA  COAST  IMLOT. 
Vocubulaijf  of  hnujiuujea,  ttc. — CoiitiiiiiL'd. 


217 


Kitglirth. 


FtiiiriT,  littlA. 
Fire 

FIihmI 

FlnWlT 

FiHiI,  U 

FtMlt 

FlMltHtCp 

Fnrrlicutt 

Fox 

Front 


G. 


CiatlHT 

(tet  up 

(lirl,  It  yoiiii}; 

r.ivo 

Give  nil'  to(\i-uik  . 


Civi!  mo  to  eat 

(;» 

G»  uway 

0«,  k't 

Gm! 

Goml 

Gown  or  Parkn 

Gown  moilu  of  iiit«s- 

tilU'H. 
GfttHH 

Om-n 

Gull,  a  sea 

GutH 


II. 


Uail 

Hair 

liaml 

Hi-a.l 

Ili-altliy 

Urari 

lie  Of  she 

Ili«li 

}Iill,  a  Hinull 

IIuM  your  tongno. 

Jlook,  II  lUh 

IlnUHc,  a 

How  much 


I. 


Iron 


Just 

K. 

Kiit'o 

Knnt  (tf  a  trfe 

Know,  till  yuu  not,  me . 


UnalaMka. 


Tcl)i*r1okai-I)ci-drtn 
Kryliiiak 

CllllllluotlMlI.ek... 

('lii')io^niar 

Dalikalii-hiiliikH  .  . 
Kti'tok 

(.'Ilfrmrk 

Taiinyak 

Oikt-lifi'n 

Koycliok 


TaliHt'ila  . 
Ankiitla  . . 
A«liaank. 


TitMi  tjutuak  4-lihtila. 

Tcf'ii  achlKHiila 

Iclia 

Inahaui'litHHla 

Ilint'cda 

Ahi.b 

Murlilii'crtclcck 

SakiM'ii 

Chcehduu  


Kc.yhiik  .. 
C'tiidliuiolr. 
Sloiika  ..  . 
Anlu-k  ... 


Talicncm  daliski'ettHi 

Imlr.i. 

Chla/j/i 

Kauilit-k 

AnhaliamtolH'luk 

Kaiinuheen 

IkoDU 

Kaclik 


T<H)ii()ok  Talhaila  . 

Imliazcrn 

Oollnn 

Kauuabon  ■ 


Komlyahuok  ... 
Adalouhooluko  . 


Cbcfdltit'dak 

YalihiMimtalrc 

Tffii       Ahkntahkidi- 
toon-ee. 


Kadiak. 


T^;:t*Ii'k()gii.. 

Kni>k 

TiMincclitok  . 
ratt'ilinrt. 
Oimvilnok. . . 

lo-o^a 

T<MMnt'i»t  — 

Tatka 

Kalili^k 

Ntinhla 


AcdiKi'O 

Nanliithtoou 

A^^raliak 

Taho 

Tanhainodk      chfc^- 

p'l-dna. 
Niikiiiffk  clitM-i^^idiia 

Ki-aila 

Aoulm 

iV.dzu 

Aliynii 

AziKl.f 

Alk.M.k 

Kanahliik 


Ilooit 

Clioonhnhleo  . 

Kadaiat 

Jviliit 


Konlidat 

NciM't 

Tal.-ha 

Na.sknk 

CljiicluM'dok 

Oon^ooata^ii 

Ooiiii 

KaiiiilitiMplt'c 

I'oonlink  niihlcnnk . 

Ntilnn-i'hi 

Sii^oliak 

Naa  or  clu'khliok  . . 
Koii!i(:hrt>n 


Cliyavik  . 


Kkliuiolniik  . 


(.'liiskiK>hka 

Avyak 

Nitltivalipooii  liaka  . 


Ki*nai. 


Tau/,-1'0  . 


Slii'iiit  )io<diiN)not> . 
^Kaiiotdslia 


Iiilititl 

lltani'tlrlict't 

'KciHth  konyil , 

Slda'kaiilim.t 

)laHhiitMmlu-ct-yn  ..  . 


JfaHhotdhinda . 
lItNaiin]t4H>h  . 
THauL'fUoimU.. 


Na*kt<dtaan6 . 

I'ldmll.ii 

Shlak-a 

KryHtaha 


*KatHhan  — 
MvtiTlt-hwu  . 

llaa.U 

.Sliintnika 


Cliooclioon  kalt'ka. . . 

SI»*i'alnM> 

Sla-niina 

SlianKK-o 

PolialUn 

Sit-klfo 

Hhonu 

Tri-fUino/, 

KiiniialthiHlii 

*Ktout<'rIrlio('t. 

Kknliak 

Yniiiali 

T<Hinaalt-lii'i 


Tay*'('»  . 


Sclit'Otdi 

K/4'rkiia. 

ilcft  a  Bhilncrtoo  . 


SItkii. 


KaviHinkai-lick. 

IIiuui. 

TakciiiaUii. 

KhlrakmwlikA. 

KaliiHWM. 

Kali(NiHit'l^>. 

Kakah. 

NakatfM''. 

KmwHiiat. 


Kontipt. 
KiM-taii. 
Sliaurt. 

AlHlii'i'tr. 
Alvvallatn. 

A!uli;)tnrt6. 

KnoHliti-. 

AhkiiidHtMdiiHK 

rhiM'umih. 

Klrt. 

Tooaki''. 

KlHltotHt. 

Atlmiditt'c. 

riKMikviin. 

Ni-f)itTiitiM-alit'ntA 

KckliatfC. 

KaiiaHrti. 


KatctHl. 

KoHlial'.it'O. 

Kai'.'. 

AkIu.^  ;    -'. 

Kli'kalilmicokoo. 

Katidi. 

Voiifa. 

K)>alii<-  kiMilicki'i. 

Komlia. 

ShalhiHitoL 
Hrat. 

KlKMIHfl. 


Kaycz. 

Klrkniiyitack. 

Kak.ch. 
IIaI<.'im'ko4»({g6. 


m 


218 


11^ 


EukHhIi. 


I.nkii 

Liiif 

I.il',  to 

Mlil.t 

I.liin,  II  Ht'u 

L\\m 

Llv.T 

J^lvo,  whiTu  «lt)  you  . . 

liiHtmi 

LoUHU  

Low 

I.lltl^IH 


M. 

Man 

Mat 

M<Hm 

Mnntin^ 

MlitT(!W,  ti> 

MiiHH 

Mothir 

McilliiM-,  xruiiil  . 

MntlltT-ili-law.. 

^Inuiitaiit 

Mouth 

Murtinvr  ...... 

MuHck'H 


N. 


Nail« 

Ni<k 

Nl'tMllo 

Iv't'plu'w 

Kit,  II  Hull 

Nlliht 

Noflo 

NoHc,  rinjiH  for  tho  . 
NoHtrilH 


a 


Our 

Olil , 

Oltir.niivi'i 
OttiT,  a  ma 


r. 


J'aliu  of  tho  haud  . 
rav.to 

rcopio 

I'illow 

I'iiii'  tir 

I'laut.to 

ria.v.to 

I'nor  


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 
Yocahulary  of  Innf/uageii,  die. — Continued. 


VnuluHka. 


Kinivak 

Yalmiiiolf<i. 


AnAalynk 

Kiivooak 

Atliik 

Aliliik 

Kaiiaiihoon  akiMithin 

Iliki'i'clia 

Kictok 

KiiMliiki'ii 

Iloonii>li<-k 


Tayaho 

Sootok 

Toolii'i-dak. 
Kfi-lyam  ... 
Ki'lliolifU . . 


Annak 

KookiwiA 

Sati-iuli(*(>n  ... 

KlHltlllHik 

Alirrl'ok 

Alri't-liooKok. 
Vylmk 


KaHhihi'U 

Oimk 

Iniikak 

Oniniu 

Koo/inabt-k 

Aiaak 

Anhoziu 

SukliHik 

Anlioziu  llookik. 


Alikadvmizi'i'k  . 

Ollik 

AakiKiya 

Chceuatok 


Chaiikala  . 


Tayalioaimmholcph  . 
KaiiAi-etak 


It.heoila ... 
MiH'likada  . 
Itouaaak .  ■ . 


Kailink. 


XiiiiiHiak 

I'llu 

i;klu 

Auci.'k 

Ailahluk 

niulikil 

.\«'t-M^a 

Niiuoc-chect  ... 

TlllMllllO 

\aaetu 

Arhallkrcliiok  . 
Kauiaptnok  — 


Shook.... 
I'l'hat  . . . 
Yaal(K;k  . 
Oonoak  .. 
Oonoa^o  . 

().<it 

Analia  ... 
Muga 


I'oonhok  nnhlod. 

Kauok 

To!io(I(iiHiuioU'6  . 
Kubi'i'liut 


Stooupa  — 
Ooynkopa .. 
Ahli'cnhon  ... 
OotMMi^a.. . 

Ajialoo 

Ooituko 

Ki'i'iii.jja  . . . 


Ki-nal. 


Ban 

Mvat-ooit 

JIl'I'lltHt'Ot 

Krrt.sool 

Aliilihhit 

Kzuk 

Siv.rcit 

Nihih  loki'i'.iM'tgan. 

Ki'i'lhihtiKiuiih 

You 

Tzoi'lhkntH. 
Stmil'tHku 


Tociiiiil . 


No -6  . 


NiH'lkooiidii  . 

Naan 

A  iiiiA 

<,''..oota 

Sh-o 


T(.hcyl6 

Shuaan  

Chi'i'kllhuhM  . 


Skaniia  . 


*Klean*khccn  . 

Shooju 

Tahvci'lh. 

*Kaa*k 

THaimlU'L'tga  .. 


Mydak Suii'lin. 


PadzU'uhka Shneuk 


Chahpoyonii  . 
Kaut'ohhik ... 

AakiMiya 

Ahull 


Tooinitga 

Xal.syaho 

Shoot 

April! 

Ankui.!">Ut'l.... 

J.HiHdahkof 

Vooauico 

Nakhee  nah'Iee. 


Khauoi>t.st6  . 
Keyrheo  — 
Tact-liim  ... 
To*k.i'8 


Slya'ka 

KiuHhilhiiah  . 

Koht-aua 

Tst't-aazilt'eu. 
TapaaUa  


Cheenleool  . 
Pa'khool... 


Sitka. 


Anki). 

Kiihauoo, 

Tlataakci-hoon. 

OotiM'kaan. 

Taau. 

Kaliakii. 

Kakrykoo. 

KiMikHC'lihrtA. 

Kotmivci'b. 

Ik^tnt. 

Kakaliak(H), 


CliakU'yh. 

TootH. 
TCCHH. 

KcKkhO. 

Sokauution. 

Txikahii. 

Aklco. 

AhlilhkiM). 

Ahrhaan. 

Shahata. 

Kak.i>. 

C'liakooto. 

Uaak. 


Kahakoo. 
Kasiitii. 
Taakatol.; 
Ahkeulk. 


Taat. 
Kadu. 


Kaslutoo. 


Ahhii. 
Ootpcsheu. 
Koo8lita. 
Touhih. 


KachfUtak. 

Af;akiMie8ueo. 

llslei'ukeet. 

Slifhot. 

Arh(: 

Taukiinakoo. 

Ai'hkoolhiat. 

glHhaan. 


KiikUhIi. 


Fii)iliir  tn>u  . 


Q- 


Qiiii'k 

(jllill,  kiMlll. 


H. 


Rain 

KanploTry  . 
Ravoii  ...,. 

R.m1 

RehKlppr.., 

Kpjdlco 

Rich 

River 

Rw  of  QhIi. 

RlK)f 

R<K>t 

Ropi' 

Rude 


S. 


Sark,  a. 

8aml 

s™ .... 
Seiii,  11 . 
Sell.... 
Send.... 
Shoot . . 
Siek  . . . 


SiiiR 

Si»lcr 

Sit  (Inwn... 

Sky 

Sleep 

Slow 

Slumber  . . . 

Snow 

Snuir 

Soft 

Son.lu-Iaw  . 
Spork 


Spoon 

Spring . . . 

Stnrfl 

Steal 

•tt'P 

Stick  . . . . 
Stone... 
Striiinht  . 
Stronji... 
Sunnuer . 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 
YocuhuUiry  of  Utngtmgcx^  dr,— Coutinuwl. 


219 


rnitliiNkii. 


AlIiKlnk 

Iitiiiulicli'ck. 


AviiliohndtHilt't'k  . 
KulI<Hihi-t'li 


v'ln'lit(ik 

Iliilnliimk 

Kiilkuhyitii 

Dnllndiitk 

It  liiiyiik* 

Kiiait<Hi<l» 

T«M)hkiM)li'i*k 

Clii'liaiink 

Kiinilii'CHtM) 

OilaiikaiiHumAtMoii. 


Oomnak 

Koc)tkH>ttM)lci>k 


C'b(K»hok 

AllufKik 

I«ok 

Xoitiihixia. . . 
AlikaiK'ciUi  . 
T<H))nlit'ilu  . . 
Tak('»-Iiz«M'k. 
Oniiuluula.. . 
Oo«/ieou 


Iniiyak 

Saliada 

AiahuUlokan. 


KaiiiK'i'li 

IlllUtolCf'Il 

Kan/aa  Hfyddldkni. . 

Naaliottii 

Koyhuak    KaliutM'h- 
zcok. 

Tabozck 

Kuneekt'fH/ia». 

Stall 

aihada 

Ki'cUiu  KryilhnoinTii 

AyaiMik 

KiMivvaiiak 

At  hiiih'tlialnk 

KayniittKili'ck 

SaakiHHtak 


Katllak. 


Clll't'lKMI  - 

Maiiliak  . 

AkHaUikt- 


<"lH"i|;al('r. 
Oolik. 


Krdnk 

Ala^nak 

Kaliihak 

Kavct '^'Ice 

T(K*tltUMI 

XiHtimiHM-hmilm 

Kankok 

K.H.yk 

(.'h^jiKit  or  n)imi\j(»c)t . 

PadtHi 

Xon^^ililiikr 

CavulitHfc 

Katiiunahlco 


nn^'Rt'k 

Kalira 

EcmAk 

Izuik  

Ajini'rrhakue. 

Tynkiie 

IVrdiM'druo  ... 

Kiiallut 

AtlXivA 


AgOIIlL'C 

Kcliok 

Kahvi^ 

f  litM>kalnnk. 
Kavabaiift*.. 

Aiimn'' 

I'rimlikn 

(>(>ii('liiok  ... 
XiM'n|riing:i .. 
KaUki 


Alujionn  — 
Oobiictlikak 

Auckr 


'I'c('j;li'iha  . . 
T<H>in)M'iiliH  . 
Vikhndilk... 
Yariiak  . .  ... 
NuI<'k('<'j;If(i 
'l'(M)kiii'('l('"  . 
Kk'k 


Ki'Mh). 


Rhiici^ 

KimmihIic^*  . 
Malkli I 


Nalii-vlliknit. 


KiMillikiilia 

('In't'ii'    ^^ 

Talliill.  ley 

I'alriiih 

NlH>klHHTttllll<lllh  . 

KaHltkanlaa 

'KaliiiHi 

Kin 

Kanaka 

Chan 

•KtMlh 

T^p'cknanh. 


Odlks 

ShiIioo 

NiNtt-liC' 

K(M)tMalii'yln-6. 


TtM'hkal  ... 
C'hri'unnh.. 
KatalyaHli  , 
Ontalla... 

NfCtHKOt  .  . 

Y(Miyftn  — 


TMmtniilipylkci't . 

NlM-ltHl'I'lh 

Aiiah 

KttM>na. 


Cbntalalii . 


Sjiata 

Kk'k 

Scfcn 

^"Knazzoon  . . . 


Tt'at8 

Kab'cknrckrr. 
THi'»ialkbi^    ... 

Tall  bey 

Shiuui 


Sitkii, 


TMknn. 

n:i'i..iMb. 

llt'trhahtHi, 


CbayonkiH), 


ScovvH. 

Kh'akiH). 

KIh. 

Ilaniabt'tt*. 

Tavvi''. 

Na.Mb«Mik. 

Antllnkinti'o. 

llatri'M. 

Kitak<M>. 

llanatant'-. 

AbbaJtIre. 

Tikb. 


Kbu'. 

T.yk^-. 

'I'Ma. 

IbiM>n. 

KiHinakA. 

Atitont. 

Ilant't'kiK), 

AtkaHbtc. 

A''klyak. 

KauufHi. 

IIlU-ltH. 

Xallii. 
Takcynab, 
Alii'kbo. 
Kbyl. 

Katlyabtti», 

Abi-rbnb. 

H.-iktlya. 

Sb.lb. 

Tak<Miit<'. 

K(H>taba.iabit. 

Ataoo. 

KakiMt.'tlak. 

KaatH. 

KlyakavooHtnk. 

Hb-)tH('»*n. 

Knntaan. 


Tbcro  liave  ncvfT  bfcn  rcindoci-  np<in  Unabinka,  but  tbcy  ptircliasc  tlio  HkinH  ami  siiicwM  frnm  the  AUuwkaus.— Dai.L. 


!■»■«. 


220 


ALASXA  COAST  riL(JT. 

Vocalxihiry  of  htn'ju.i{/en,  dc. — "Coiitiimt'd. 


Kn^linli. 

X'lialaMka. 

Kaittak. 

K.'iial. 

Sitka. 

Ahhapak 

Mailzak 

Xiha  

T. 
Tail 

SanHlii'hchiliPtccn- 
Sii.ln     .               

I'kn 

Tak« 

Ti'limt 

llhki'ot    

Shro. 

Takii  iiwii.v  l)j  fii.cc 

\lc)«)il/]nt 

Kt.poshcil t 

IVcth 

KcahoifZt'cn 

ShiL'f'k-ha 

That 

OiHiii 

IIvv  piftA 

Kta. 

Vayamyiiuji/i 

IniH'-;  -TiiaynuHft 

O.luulu'.Tk 

Viiiiatnnlnukan 

Ihaili.ilisyiik 

ShiHli.ili. 
Xmiiti. 

Thief   

Tno^luna  piUo 

Thill        

Tnltict 

KattHah 

Yatstcclluli. 
Shikis    . 

Tlirt-aii  II  v.\h'  of  tin-  in- 
liHliiii'Kcif  ihi'wiiak'. 

Kt'cpak 

T^']IkataHM^^ 

Tlmiiili              

iloulak 

Kaiuliipi 

Amlila;,^anau 

Trt-ii  nnuhtaluuiok. .. 

Tkiui. 

Clialiiii  niliiba 

Koboliak  trtlialakua  . . 

Oi)tui>t 

Sliaak. 

U. 

Alhtkunk      .     .,. 

NcM'ts. 

V. 

Valli>v 

^fmik 

Vein 

No')^rak 

Katlukp. 

Kichoziiu  KcogUillu'e. 

T<»kni;<?-!inoohulh>y. 

'KaiHhIlltuOHll 

M'illk  

WaHh 

■\Vutor       ..         

Taiiiik 

Tniiak 

V('i-Iliu('6 

AVrak 

KfUiliali'i'kru 

(•li;ititak..halik 

Allok 

^Ktaklionlccn 

AVot         

Ootcckck 

^V1ii«' 

Aj;v(ik      

Yaajja. 

AVhat  

What  ai*«  ym  afraitl  of. 

Alknk      Kliagt.-Iect- 

iJI.r.y  «U'('k»iU 

'rMat!4;ioe!itMk. 

(^iKiM!sa(JK<^. 
Koot«'K<-)M-i'iiakni)h. 

AVhi'ir  iiro  yiui  ^^oing  . . 

AVlu'if^  woro  you 

■\Vhitc                

Kannnoimu'ftu 

Kaiialink  'IVIct'tlioen 

Nrttmi'ii  ayouit 

^•^ah  tiMMUie 

Kilnh  tiMizitoo 

Tulka^     .... 

Ivlflyiilh't6. 

AVhv    

AVMo 

Wiml 

SlukMt'tk  

AyaiiHlilu(»k'i'» 

Kvact'k     

Tn'Itlian 

Klyakic  kifohiK), 

Wiiitir    

(»iikHfr(ik 

•ilici' 

Kniii''knHli. 

fU't'tauce/.zaii 

<'haaiirli(M> 

Mokolaii 

AVi|n,       

Klill ta 

Wirt*' 

Akiinikalick 

KlHtlltlk 

Aiiliaheiiak 

(»(MlzvtMlmik*i' 

WiiUitl 

Kht. 

AVoiimii 

Atftuuilt 

Sbiivvot. 

ALASKA  COAST  riIA)T. 

Vocabulary  of  huigiiagvH,  d'c— Contiimoil. 


Kiiglian. 


Work... 
Wound  . 


t'liiiliiskft. 


Avvndft. 


T. 


Tpiir 

Ti'Uow 

Youug 


yunurali. 


I) 

7 

rt 

9 

10 

11 


Klok 

Miidcloliniik 
giHilioimziik  ■ 


Atnkcn  . 
Arli>k... 
Kanki'o . 


Kiidiiik. 


(.'liiiiA . 
Kecyo  . 


Cliccoolok SImiit  to. 


Konai. 


Hr»>t!HH)  . . 
Skoo'kha . 


ChfMinlialiliM) 

^uoiiha!: 


Cliaaii 

Ato<m 

OoUonn  

Kaiiclioon . 

Si'"i'lii'i'ii 

Alt'k 

AtfMMii  ntoken  sooh- 

iiohta. 
Atfor.i    arlok    Rcoli- 
I       iiDta. 

Ij !    Att't'iu  kanknn  Hcch- 

nota. 

H A  teem  Bci'hiM'U  socli- 

iiohtii. 


13 


15- . 
Iii.. 

n. 

IS. 

111. 


'2(1... 

no... 


50. 


Ataoodzok 

A/lha 

IVrncaKvak 

Stanicck 

Tii'"iMiic>i'k 

^Viim-iu:')'  

^Ialt>1ioii1  ocii      

Tn^liiliin 

Knoliib.topii 

Koiilfii 

Alliililok   


(iO. 
70. 


itO. 


Iflll. 


Ati'i'in    I'hitau   socli. 

Ilnllta. 

Alci'iit    nUnni    Hrcli- 

niita. 
Att'cni  (M'lloon  Hi'ch- 

ii(i})ta. 
Atci'in         kaiic'liciMi 

Hi'i'lin<»lila. 
Atoi'in  Hcihi'i-n  Hcoh- 

iiohta. 

Alliatiah 

Kanki»inl<'in  alt'k  . .  . 

Sfccjiri'di'in  atck 

Chauuboetlot'iu  »Wk 


Atooiilildliii  atpk  ..  .. 
Oiilliniiihccdi'i'Ui  ntok 

lCniU'!iiH'nh"'c<U'*'ii 

atck. 
Si'i'i  li<)i>nlieedc'i!ni 

nti'k. 

Si'CHak 

AUiliii  scwHuk 


ili  .Ihiigiiook 

IMiiga-yoii-iuMdc  — 

Slamannnk 

Talt'c  tnaiKtok 

Aliii5i'liin(;);t'iionk. 
!MalH-lion!ipo»iK)k  . 

KurIu  liignook 

Kuidii  hooyaiiook  . 


Talt.iaW- 

Koott'ohazalhecit . 


Tsoplgtan 

Ndiitiia 

T(K.*k-p 

Taii*k-o 

T.skwlno 

■♦KlHlltnlK'O 

Kaiit.i-i'dii* 

I,tak(i<)l  <> 

Lki'i-tmct-lKio 

*KliOi)"ii ■•■ 


K'H'liiodk  of  Hviiirtk  . . 
Sv<'i'iiuk  kciidiMiiik 

a/.liikf>. 

Si'i'diilk  inaMiik 

Svwiutk  ii.iiiliik  kiiol. 

intrtk    piii   liti  yon- 

l(nik. 

i<v(M'i](  t  iiiiiliaicm  — 
Svcciirl         pialialim 

kiioliifMik. 
Hvprnct  ritaiuan. 

Svccni't  HiaiTinii 

kooliHiok. 
Svwml   laliCiiialont 
Sveouet  ktM>lt>iii. 


T»'  '  una 

•1.    ;  Ulii.i""ti. 

Tail!;!'  klii.icioii. 
'I'skil  (111  klujiiiui. 


KnojiH  klnjonii. 
Kalikriliili  kliuu""' 


THUiitliin. 


001 

*^  M«    X 


Kihi'iion*. 
ICtiyi'tt*. 


Kaiid^ii'luM'tiyalii'lit*'! 

iHtUl. 


Klok. 

Tidl. 

Kdl.^k. 

TaikiKiii. 

Ki'iilii'i'ii. 

Kitiiiwliiiii. 

'rahatmiKhon. 

.\lM'tsUallHlHlllM>. 

Kinmliak. 
L'hcniUaat. 
Chii'iikaat  avaiiliak 

kfk. 
t'lici'iikaat  avaidiak 

till. 
Clii'i'likaat  av  iiiliak 

Il(it»k. 
CliiMiikaat  a\aaliak 

tatrkiHiii. 
Chci'iikaat  a\aiiluik 

ki-i'i'lii-iM). 
Chi'i'itkaat  avaiiliak 

kftiKmliiHi. 
Clii'iMikaal  avanhak 

taliatiMiHliii'i. 
i'liiTiikaat  avalihak 

iifctHt-  atooshiHi. 
flici'iikaat  .ivaiiliak 

kiMmltak. 
Kli'k  kn. 


222 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


JII:TK()I{0I.0(!ICAL  AUSTRACT  for  SITKA,  FRO^[ 
Jioin  and   melted  unow/aU  at   ^itJia,  in   invites,  with   the  number  of. 


Tear. 


r  Hain  . 
If  17*  -J  Snow 


lg-18*  ;  SiKiw 


(  Hiiiiiy  ilaVH 

fltain 


[  Kaiiiy  days  . 

riiain 

Ili4!lt     Sn.nv 

i  Jtaiiiy  (lays. 

f"'"" 

IRW    Snow 


t  Kainy  dayrt 

[  Rain 


IK'ilt^  SiKiw. 
(l 


Kaiiiy  (lays  . 

llJiiiii 

lesat     Show 

I  Kaiiiy  dayn  . 

I  ii.iiiiy  ilayH  . 


I8.'>4t 


^  Kaiiiy  liayM  . 


rltaiii. 


fid 

IffiOt }  Snow 

I  Kaiiiy  <l«y»  ■ 


r  Kaiii . 


18.')?*  •;  Sliinv 

[  Uailiy  (layH 


(  Kaiii  ami  hihiw  . 
(  Kaiiiy  ilayH 


Itt!)- 


Kaiii . 
Snow . 


I  Uiiiny  (lays  . 

fUalii 

■  t  Siinw 

(  Kaiiiy  (lavH  . 


lem- 


[  Kaill 

Snow 

(  Kainv  (lay«  - 


fKain 

1«H*  j  Siinw 

'   I  Kaiiu'  ilavH  . 


Tntals 


Montlily  iiit'iui  raiiitall  . 
M(<iiii  I'liiny  (lii.\  H 


No  I'd 
Xo  if( 
No  rci 


7.73 

1.00 

18 

0.50 

0.  !).■> 

(W  5 

0.  101 

;).  4-jii 

18 

fi.  am 
1. 85a 

20 

11.  an 

0.  H.-i 
87 

IS.  OSS 
-.10 

•i.  rm 

\T, 

■1.  i:i8 
u 

34 

0.  n.')s 

•i.  4  Ml 

l(i 

8.807 
<J4 

13.  ST.-i 

0.  Iill3 

23 

11.883 

1.083 

24 

7.  1211 

1.  2.MI 

Hi 

0.800 

1.7IW 

13 


.043 
90 


1.  30 

4.30 

19 

4.  15 
3.80 
(b)  0 

T.  7:12 

a  ,107 

24 

4.  0411 
2.  5.3,1 

ai 

,5. 108 

a.  OKI 

21 

4,  0,33 
15 

0.  280 

22 

12.  ,3(18 

0.  fl,-|(i 
21 

0.000 

2.  o;i5 

12 

4,  22,1 
17 

4.  400 
0 
11 

II.  1:10 

2.  070 

22 

,S.  4,Vi 

0.  273 

21 

4.  820 

0.  008 

10 


7,079 
18 


1.  GO 

2,  05 
20 

0.  05 

4,  83 

(W  !« 

0,  (i,32 

1,  4,35 

Hi 

4,  48(i 

1.  185 

19 

a  420 
1,  120 

i;i 

a  010 
21 

10.091 

2:1 

e.  017 

0,  .351 
2,1 

i.02n 

1.048 

14 

8.  704 
25 

a  ri5 

0.  (!:io 

10 

2,  920 

1,,3.«0 

21 

1. 2.10 
Olif.   mo. 

Hi 

0.  780 

1.483 

19 


4,  Klli 
19 


17 

Xo  vccoril. 

No  ii'conl 

(MXiiiTc'nl 

;i,  028 

a  OH! 

19 

4,  042 

0.  201 

14 

2,  244 

0,020 

18 

a  100 

a  393 

27 

,3.  431 

1,  2,30 

;io 

6.  .302 

0 

2:1 

4.  403 

21 

fi.  140 

0 

20 

5.  095 
0,  500 

21 

3,  395 

Clear,  0 

17 

2,044 

1.(1.38 
20 


2,  20 

0 

(n)  1:1 

8.  4u 

0 

(b)    12 

Xo  record, 

Xo  riM'oiil, 

(())Xolci''lcl 

a  713 

0 

23 

1,,377 
0 
14 

4,719 

0 

■20 

.3,  079 
19 

7.812 
27 

a.  7o;i 

0 

21 

2,  WW 

0 

21 

1,  300 
15 

.3,  793 

0 

23 

2,220 
(<■) 
12 

1,  ,3,30 
0 
12 

4.  920 

0,  (i22 


2,  ,30 
0 
19 

2,  15 

0 

(W   13 

2,09 

0 

20 

0,  798 

0 

23 

5,  330 

0 

20 

((0  2,  (i30 

0 

22 

(i.  Hi4 
20 

4,478 
82 

5,080 

0 

22 

,3,  705 

0 

SO 

a  781 
21 

2,  ,325 
0 
l(i 

Xo  it'i'oril. 
No  record, 
17 

0,  IX)1 
0 

8 

2,  492 
0 
13 


02  200 

5,  010 
18 


.35,  312 

4,142 

18 


5,3,  780 

4,  038 
32 


If 

d, 


(a)  A  clear  iiioiilli,  ((,)  No  ivcord  ol'  tlie  Iioiim  ii]ioii  w''l(h  rain  nr  miow  fell,  (r)  Only  twciit.v 

(/)  Fiiv  Hoveii  luiil  one  third  inoiitlis,  (,/)  For  eljflit  moiitli.><.  •  olwervatloim  every  liiiiir. 


mi 


, 


Ttp 


ALASKA  COAST  Pll.cyr. 


223 


1847  TO  1*2,  LATITUDE  57"  02'S,,  LONGITUDE  IX,^  lr<'.->. 

days  iq)on  which  rain,  snoii;  or  luiil  fell,  or  when  thick  fog  prevailed. 


a.  8(1 

0 

.   0.  !10 
0 

(b)  ^ 

4.  k; 

() 

24 

3.  m:i 

(I 
i:i 

4.  (i7:i 

0 
2(1 

1.  ffll 

0 

n 

4.  124 

4.  Mr. 

22 

8.114 

0 

211 

10.  8W1 

(I 

2!l 

fi.  nm 

18 

2.  Illf) 

(I 
21 

No  rcconl. 

No  rt'cuiil. 

!l 

2.71.-. 
n 

19 

1.504 
0 


5;.  ;i4(i 
4.  ton 

81 


3.  2.'i 
0 
17 

8.03 

0 

(W  17 

9.  S08 

(I 

27 

10.  310 
'        0 

2.  (irj 

0 
1(1 

8.  543 
U 

2:t 

7.  181 

20 

3.  9(i9 

22 

3.071 

0 

23 

C.  441 

(I 
20 

5.  790 

l.'l.  iK. 

0 

24 

ll.ti(i3 
0 
25 

6.  3.V) 

0 
15 

8.  144 

0 
23 


100.  i.59 

7.  277 
2:1 


10.  00 

0 

23 

12.  50 
0 

(b)  23 

14.327 
0 
20 


2. 

434 

0 

13 

2 

(il5 

0 

22 

0 

735 

19 

8 

417 

20 

2 

727 

0 

30 

8.  070 

0 

21 

7.  801 
21 

9.  145 

0 

21 

14.515 
0 
18 

(1.110 
0 
21 

15.  924 
0 


\X.  051 

10.  4(il 
93 


e.(i5 

0 
23 

12.  .55 

0 

(M  24 

11.110 

0.  288 

25 

It.  007 


13.  778 
0 
21 

12.  :m 

0 

24 

19.  527 

20 

11.5.50 
23 

11.140 

0 

20 

9.  8,58 
0 
24 

0.180 

28 

B.  830 

0.  135 

J I 

il.  7.VI 

0 

24 

13.  073 

0 
24 

14.  021 

0 
20 


178.025 

11.808 

20 


5.  4., 

1.41 

'\5 

11.70 

0 

(i.)  22 

4.  057 

0.  07(i 

19 

9.  330 

0.  745 

24 

8.  090 
0.  294 

27 

.5.  119 

0.  49a 

21 

0.451 
(Tr.  nut.  (i 

14.  71J 

30 

7.  378 

0.  3!l!l 

23 

12.  090 
0 
21 

14.  215 
20 

2.  825 

0.  11(1 

10 

No  rct'ord. 

JJo  record. 

18 

4. 005 

0.  090 

17 

12.039 
0 
24 


118.  78H 

8.  485 
23 


4.95 

3.20 

20 

1.95 

4.  45 

((')   15 

2.  409 
1.115 

18 

5.  .593 

0. 294 

2(1 

8.  059 
0.314 

13 

0.  .537 
1.177 

1.5.  883 
28 

9.  0,59 

21 

5.  079 

1.  432 

10 

14.815 

2.  403 

2U 

8.120 
17 

8.  800 

0.  045 

24 

X«  rocvird. 

"No  rconrd. 

('I'r.  ino.  7 

AH  Miiow. 

2.  ,572 

10 

10.9'.i7 
1.522 

28 


114.  ori 
K.200 

19 


39.  80 
4.61 


7(i.  80 
14.45 


.53.  3.32 
11.979 


Kt.  301 
12.  407 


fifi.  0.50 


70. 02:t 

B.  .540 


90.  KM 


■g    ff 


(;;)  44.41 


91.25 


0.5.  31 1 


72.  4.55 


87.171 


((/)  77.  I(>3 
90.  034 
--7.  171 


8,3.  820 
3.  ms 


79.  393 
>,.  I«0 


80.  758 
1.  015 


09.  2*18 
.5.  835 


5.5.  .572 
,5.  (W« 


W.  474 
7.  475 


87.514 


(/)7.5.043 


Avcrii;ii'  fur  jl4.  09  .v"'«r». 
8:1.33  ;ilichi'H. 


o 
H 


to)  i(i3 


((<)  233 
2:17 
447 


21H 


.\\criiK('. 


245 


lour  liny  »"li«-iviiliiiiii<.  (•/)  Klcvfu  kihI  loiirlHllw  ininitli». 

f  ObservHtioDB  from  4  li.  to  SO  h. 


(r)  No  ri'iord  iitlcr  llii-  loili. 


224 


ALASKA  ("OAST  PILOT. 


-1' 


c 

•^ 


CO 


MjK 

1 

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fi 

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li      S      LI 

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%  %. 

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fi  f 

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•ii».»m  Aiiuo^ 

t* 

1- 

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oy 

3! 

^    3^    S 

fi 

ri 

fi 

S    fi 

fi 

fi 

fi  f 

i       fi 

1 

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f^ 

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1    1 

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fi     S     f! 

fi 

fi 

fi 

fi    fi 

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fi 

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228  ALASKA  COAST  TILOT. 

Daily  meteorological  record  at  Sitla,  Alaska — Contimiod. 


t  i 

If 
■a  1 

M 

Thi'vniMmctcr,  Fa 

ircnlii'it. 

r. 
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Date. 

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29.  UM 
2!l.  H(iO 
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110. 0110 
20.  801 

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51.  14 
54.  90 
51.. 57 
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50.  41) 

52.  08 
(in.  14 
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ni.iio 

511.  44 
.55.  94 
58.84 
57.91 

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0 

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,50.  45 
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47.01 
59.  19 
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51.93 
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54.  03 
54.  39 
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Mi'nn»  . . . 

29.915 

52.  82 

49.  83 

1.  740 

July     1 

29.777 
29.  89li 
29.  979 
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29.  tCtO 
29.  fi73 
29.  810 
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29.  805 
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29.  570 
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29. 1)92 
29.  :ril 
29.  075 
29.  9211 
29.  982 
2!>.  909 

29.  xn 

29.  920 
29.  890 
29.  805 
2!l.  818 
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29.  .-108 

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.53.  80 
52.  51 
54.  7fi 
57.08 
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.53.  71 
.53.  89 
iVl.  31 
.53.  48 

54.  25 
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.57. 13 
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51.  70 
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55.  04 
.54.  30 
.55.  02 
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54.  70 
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54.  95 
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.52.  30 
30.  92 
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51.04 
.52.  77 

52.  75 

50.  31 
51.78 
51.04 

51.  51 
.51.  08 
51.  37 
.52.  32 
51.  10 
49.87 
51.  30 
51.  10 

53.  89 

53.  22 
51.  73 
53.71 

54.  07 
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«».  815 

55.02 

52.72 

4.125 

lm 


Date. 


1B67. 

Aug.    1 

2 

3 

5 
G 
7 

9 
10 
11 
13 
13 
14 
15 
10 
It 
18 
19 
20 

at 

2-2 
K) 
S4 
25 
2« 
27 
28 
2<J 
30 
31 

Means  . . 


Sept. 


1 
2 
3 
4 
5 
fi 
7 
8 
It 
10 
11 
12 
13 
14 
15 
Ifi 


ALASIC^i  COAST  PILOT. 

Daily  meteorological  record  at  ISitka,  Alasl-a — (ydiitimiod. 


229 


I-- 


90.900 
•-'9.  7J2 
29.  7;il 
29.  752 
'29.  775 
2<).  1-98 
2!l.  9(15 
29.  H27 
29.  8;)« 
89.  ('48 
29.9-27 
29.922 
29.  7(i8 
2i).  733 
29.  732 
29.  7IW 
29.  .'iti7 
99.  fiWi 
29.  847 
2!l.  743 
29.  .557 
29.  732 
29.  040 
2!l.  594 
2!l.  704 
29.  898 
311.  007 

29.  944 
2!).  93b 

30.  (Hi4 
;».  25:1 


30.  212 
30.  IIU 
:».  077 
29.  822 

29.  954 

30.  034 
30.  0,57 
31).  Ot-O 
30.  047 
29.  'X 
99.  497 
29.  53fi 
29,  034 
29.712 
29.  918 
89.880 


I'licrinnini'tcr,  Fiiliroiilii'lt. 


Diy. 


52. 95 
,52.  92 
51.  80 
51.  12 
51.80 
.52.  47 

51.  57 

52.  47 
5;t.  60 
5;t.82 
.53.  82 
,53.  00 
51. ;« 
Thi.  15 

50.  40 
49.77 
,50.  07 
51., 57 

51.  12 
51.  57 
51.  12 
49.  10 
49.  77 
4(i.  85 
49.  77 

51.  .57 
,5;i.  15 
5,5.  40 
54.  95 
r>3.  fiO 

52.  02 


Wot. 


51.88 


.52.  92 
.50.  00 
48.87 
40.  85 
52.  92 
,52.  25 
54.  27 
,52.  25 
.52.  25 
,50.  90 
51.  12 
47.  75 
47.  97 
17.  3(1 
49.  77 
51.  12 


.50.  (K) 
49. 77 
49. 10 
49.  .55 
49.  32 
.50.00 
.50.  45 
51.  57 
51.  .57 
.52.  99 
,5.3. 150 
.52.  25 
50.87 
52.25 
49.  32 

47.  75 
48. 90 
.50.07 
49.  .55 
,59.  00 
48.87 
4(1.  42 
47.30 
4,5.  95 

48.  05 
,50.  90 
,52.  95 
54.  95 
54.  50 
5:i.  15 
.50.  IM) 


50.  33 


.59.  02 
4.5.  ,50 
40.85 
44.00 
40.17 
48.87 
52.47 
51.  35 
51.12 
49.  ,55 
49.  10 
40. 17 
45.  72 
45.  95 
40.  H5 
49.  .55 


w 


.54.  05 
5,5.  17 
,55.  02 

54.  .50 
57.  (15 

55.  02 
,59.  70 
55.83 
57.  90 
,5.-..  40 
,55.  (19 
,5(1.  .59 
54. 1(5 
54.  95 
54.  !(5 
.53.  15 
.5:1.  :I7 

.5:1.(111 

,5.1.  15 
,52.  9:t 

54.  ,50 
51.31 
,5:),  (10 
47.  75 
51.  80 
.54.  05 
,5,5.  40 

55.  85 

57.  20 

58.  .55 
.50.  07 


1 
t 

I 


,5.5.  40 
.53.  15 
.5,5.  ()2 
,54.  .50 
,59.  45 
57.  87 
,55.  85 
55.  83 
.59.  (15 
.5:1.  15 
,59.  70 
51.  19 
51.  H) 
.53.  15 
.5:1.  (id 
.53.  (10 


49.  10 
,50.  00 
47.  97 
4(1.  (19 
49.  80 
49.  32 
,50.  01) 
51.  35 
49.  77 
51.80 
,52.  99 
,50.  90 
4.5.  .50 
.50,  40 
47.  75 
47.07 
47.  75 
48.87 
4H.  42 
.50.  29 
47.  75 
45.  95 
47. :«) 
4.5.  95 
4(1.  (19 
4!l.  10 
,50.  90 
51.  rO 
.52.  70 
,50.  22 
4,5  95 


,50.  45 
49.  10 
49.  .57 
40.  55 
40.  55 
04.  15 
52.  92 
.50.  45 


47.  (17 
49.  10 
4(1.  H5 
4(1.  05 
4:t.  -Si 

;i7.  f5 

4.5.  .50 
47.  75 


71.7 


.9,15 
.  i:i5 

.  1.55 
.  :125 
.010 
.  345 

.  :t:i5 

.  7l^5 

.  (too 

.  885 

I.  o:io 

.  785 
.  7.5.5 
1.  190 
l.:i95 
.310 
.  1.55 
.  7.'i() 

.  :i;i5 

.  OM 
.7."iO 
.  970 
1.3:15 
1.740 
.  (105 
l.fld 
.  370 
.  (idO 
.040 
.820 


79.  95 
9:1.  05 
0:1.  ,50 


09.  30 


.  945 
.  005 


.  405 


.215 
1.040 
.  4.VI 


1.090 


Wind. 


SW.,\K..  K 

K.,  .SIC,  variablit 

■S,  Xi:..  K 

SW.,  ME.,  viiridlilo.... 

Viicliililo 

SW.,  vniialilo 

si:..  K.,  NK.,  vnridlili). 

.S..  ,SK.,  SW 

SW.,  (iilm,  NW 

Vaiiidil,',  NW..SW... 
S.,  SW.,  XK,,  calm.... 

('iil(n,  SW.,  K.,  S 

S.,  I'lilni,  H.,  X.,  W.... 

Vniliilili. 

SW..(aI(.;.  NIC 

S.,  SE.,  E.,  XE 

E.,calm,  N 

W.,  ,S.,  cjiliii,  E.,  SK... 
E.,  SE.,  NE.,  ciihn  .... 
S.,  XE..  ciihii,  E.,  SE.. 

E..  SW.,  SE..  E 

E.,  viii-iiililc 

E.,  SE.,  NE 

E.,  SE.,  NE 

S..  SW..  SE 

i:.,SE.,  NE.   

E.,  SW.,  S.,  I'alm 

SW.,  ialn(,  NW 

W.,  caldi 

SW.,raIm,  W 

AV.,  calm 


W.,ralin,  XV;„  XW. 

Variable 

W.,  NW.,  calm,  NE. 

E.,  NW.,  NE 

XW.,  N.,  calm 

Varijtble 

SW.,  calm,  SE 

E.,  SW 

VariaW(,  W 

SW..  calm,  varialili). 

E..  NW 

E..  NE.,  SE 

\'ai'ialilr 

SW..  XE..  NW 

SW.,  NW.,  W 

E.,SW 


1 


230  ALASKA  COAST  r I  LOT, 

Daily  mcteoroloyical  record  at  ^itka,  Ahmka — CouUimod. 


1^ 

Tlii'nDiiiiictci-.  I'iiliri'nliiil. 

1 
.s 
.g 
& 

Wiud. 

i 

Date. 

Diy. 

Wet. 

t 

I 

i5 

i 

c 

1 

i 

J3     i, 

1 

1 
1 

1H07. 

8f|.l.  17 

18 

an,  042 
aip.  mi 

so.  TXi 

fio.iiia 

so,  .w,^ 

20.  (i70 
SO.  4S0 

30.  tiO  I 
SO.  Will 
SO.  »,-i-j 
SO.  07-2 

SO.  4;-' 

B0,f4l 

o 
.VI,  45 
f.S.  47 
fil.  12 
5S.  S.') 
fiS.  70 
40.  77 
51.12 
.ll.:)! 
40.  10 
40.  .Vi 
47.  07 
4H.  311 
47.07 

o 
40. 10 

5(1.  no 

50.  33 
50.  92 
Dl.CT 
4a  «5 

5a  87 
5(1.  43 

4^^.  30 
4H.87 
47.57 

40.  m 

4.'i.  05 

o 
5S.  (iO 
57.  75 
50.00 
51.  M 
54.50 
51,  57 
54. 05 

50.  (10 

51.  HO 
53.  S5 
SO.  !K( 
50.  00 
53.  70 

0 

47.  :ui 
4H.  20 
4(1.  17 

o 

.  215 
3.115 
.700 
1.040 
.410 
.  5.')i) 
.470 
.  745 
3.  .'►15 

.  ao.-i 

.  S(i.-| 
1.0S5 

Vurialilo 

0 

K.,  Si;.,  XE.   .. 

0 

10 

0 

SO 

0 
0 

n 

ai 

3S 

50.  4.-) 
4(1.  40 
40. 115 
4(1.  17 
4(1.  17 
4(1.  17 
4(i.  27 
4fi.  H.-. 
Ofi.  05 

S.,SU 

SW.,  S.,  K 

K.,  NK.,  SK 

K.,  N\V.,  lalra 

94 

0 

1 

8.1 

0 
1 

Sli 

SW..  10.  ciiliu 

27 

i;..  SK 

K„  X\V 

0 

88 

n 

3fl 

N\V.  calm  SW 

0 

30 

.  OM 

1 

Mcnns  of 
30  diiv8. 

20.  703 

no.  40 

4a  57 

i(i.  a.v) 

For  tho  ftrHt  r-i^htccn  diivH  or  Ortolur  lln-  jntimint  <tf  rain  was  7.  4'i  iuohoH ;  obsiTviiij;  tlu-u  lUscoiitimii-d  ;  heavy 
voathtT  lifter  tliiit  dato  to  ttui  cud  of  tlio  iiionlh;  hurrii;jun.'  on  the  *jaih. 


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ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


2',\i> 


Obnerratwns  of  the  weather  at  llioHlioul;  Unalanka,  for  mm  years,  1825,  182(5, 
1829,*  18»t,  18.'U,  18;$2,  183;J,  18,34,*  old  style. 


1 

<i 

^ 

^ 

Mouths. 

"a 

c 

t 

i 

1 

d 

1 

i 
J. 

3 

I 

1 
1 

11 

3"; 

111 

55 

Sg 

118 

15 

0 

.5 

n 

:« 

W 

09 

.11 

94 

an 

0 

a 

March 

3 

SK 

iia 

7« 

M 

134 

10 

a 

3 

April 

4 

art 

104 

76 

01 

9t> 

i(i 

a 

4 

May                         

a 

6 
n 

99 
24 

aa 

an 

105 

r> 
118 

KIC 

Ml 

es 

7T 
77 

lOfl 
83 
75 

113 

31 
4 
0 
3 

49 
7« 

75 

1 
« 
1 
a 

1 

1 

July                               

1 

4 

2 

w 

lor 

73 

143 

39 

33 

3 

3 

Octobor 

2 

a  I 

113 

:tl 

113 

M! 

18 

5 

7 

3 
(i 

ao 

13 

8H 
IKi 

no 
8a 

84 
47 

lafl 

133 

9 
« 

1 
0 

1 

(J 

Total 

M 

3ia 

1,  S03 

933 

1,015 

8m 

398 

17 

3a 

Tart  of  oiirli  of  thcfld  yeiirs.    Thrtc^  i)l)«('rvntionH  om'h  diii'. 


TImuder-.storms  and  tiaillKiuakps  noted  in  the  above  i)eriod  ii:-<  follows: 


236 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 


Ohscrmiom  for  (lii-ecfinn  of  wiml  at  lUoulionk,  I'nala^lo.  for  1825,  1S2G,  1827,* 
1828,  182!),t  18;5(!,  1831,  1832,  1833,  1834,  old  xfyle. 


MuiltllH, 


JaiiMjiry . . 
Fehruttry. 
Hnrili  — 

April 

Way 

Juiir 

July 


j\U)Jll.'<t 

S<'itt<'iiiln'r 

Octohrr 

NttvciulM^r 

Pi'i'CMnbcr 

SuiHiiiitiMiliHcrvutiousiii  1837,  ISaS,  anil  18'i!l. 


Tiiliil 


38 
>il 
Xi 

to 

.14 
21 

:n 

1)7 

5a 

Ii8 

i:t9 

1116 


i 


so 

10 
43 

;i>i 

•i3 

10    I 

>'>   I 
i:t 

18 
311 

li:i 


401 


52 
HI 
48 
03 
78 
W) 
17 
15 
25 
a!) 
:i7 
47 
319 


707 


Direction. 


74 
00 
8;i 
81 
7fl 
84 
72 
74 
,58 
54 
.37 
39 
242 


s 


88 
74 
84 
81 
68 
89 
94 
76 


57 

50 

2.56 


I,  060 


1, 127 


29 
45 
66 
87 
63 
77 

130 
85 
82 
94 
69 
.32 

143 


,089 


49 

48 

83 

79  I 

87 

41 

73 
101 
114 

93 
122 


o 

'A 

00 

62 

98 

67 

81 

47 

23 

.54 

03 

107 

73 

114 

154 


1,  (K)2 


i^ 


138 
148 
81 
90 
113 
130 
141 
170 
149 
1.56 

i:« 

134 
042 


2,  3:tl 


*  Jaiiunry,  Fcbniiiry,  .Marili,  A|nil,  Ocliilii-r.  >'(ivoiii1iit,  IlcccinlaT. 
t  First  Hix  uioutlii..    In  Hum  limu  alxint  160  observations  lost. 


Olmrmtiom  for  the  force  of  trUul  at  IlionUoul;  Unalaska,  for  seven  years  between 

1825  anrZ  1834,  oW  «/(//«. 


Force. 

Konths. 

.A 
tt 

1 

i 

.a 

s 
£ 

7. 

ti, 

= 

s 

tfamiarv 

236 
837 
S55 
830 
373 

3;« 

279 

aos 

206 
309 

a;i4 

317 

v.n 

114 
167 
167 
187 
113 
104 
143 
131 
139 
115 
110 

50 

6;t 

80 
95 
60 
43 
53 
48 
85 
79 
77 
83 

41 

36 
46 
,'13 
31 

9 
13 

9 
I'i 
46 
.54 
73 

February 

Mnrcb 

A|iril 

May 

»Tnin» 

July 

Antiust 

,Sei)t*'inber 

* 

October 

Xoveniber 

4 

Deernittel- 

Totiil 

a,  980 

1,6;)4 

830 

437 

Tliiii'  (ilij-nviiti'iuM  cHcli  (liiy. 

NoTK.— i)n  thr  17th  ..t  Mirvi,  (,d,i  jj!>th  of  OvtvUr.  \^-X\.  the  win.)  wn«  cxtiuonliiiurilv  .^li-on- 


ALASIGl  COAST  TILOT. 


2:]7 


Jonriinl  of  meteorological  ohserratioiis  at  the  rilhuje  of  Tlioulioxk,  ishnid  of  I'lm- 
la>tka,  from  October  l.SIJf}  to  April  18U7  by  the  liev.  Innocent  Shui/emiiko^',  priest 
of  the  Unalaska  distriet. 


a 

e 

p 

.a 
H 

2 

E 
1 

Direction  ami  toire  of 
tlu^  wiiul. 

AVcuthor. 

IHtili. 

o 

0 

Oct.    'JfJ 

H  11.  I,: . . 
N(Hin  . . 

.'iO 

\V.  N^\^,  nitHlorutc 

Sky  iJilfriliuii^'in^  tlir  \\\\\\\v  iltiy. 

i<  !•.  Ill . . 

•13 

44.  0 

tlo. 

30 

H  a.  m . . 
NiHni  . . 

H  p.  111.. 

40 

48 
46 

S.  S\V.  li(slit 

Skv  iutiT  ■Iiaii;:iii;i. 

44.7 

S.  S\V..  nioili'ia'i- 

OvciraHt  nr  jrlonniy. 

31 

8  a.  m . . 

40 

do 

CU-ur. 

Nnou  . . 

43 

\V.  S\V.,  moiliTiito 

Siinsliint', 

H  p.  Ill . . 

41 

41.  :t 

ilo 

(.'Iriir  mid  ;it  tiiin's  tain. 

Nw.    1 

H  11.  Ill . . 

N<MHi  . . 

f  11.  Ill . . 

40 
4-2 

3'.) 

W.S\V.,  lush 

.lo. 

SuiiNhiiii'  kihI  rlt-ar  all  day,  but  in  tli<> 

'venindrain. 

40. 11 

do.     - 

2 

fn.  m.. 
Noon  .. 

38 
40 

W.,  modorato 

do. 

HmiHluui)  and  clfiir,  Imt  at  timcH  a  wrt 

nnow  falling. 

8  p.  in . . 

30 

38.0 

do. 

fmln. 

fa.  in.. 
Noou  .. 

30 
38 

Ovcix-ast  )!•  ylooniy,  and  iniuli  wet  Hnow  and  Mtmnif 

K.  SIC,  viTy  8tr"!!R. 

8  p.  in.. 

40 

38.0 

K  SW.,  moderate 

Char  and  at  timcM  rain. 

40 

a  SK.,  fi' Bh 

Clear  and  siinnliinr,  H!H)Wt'rH. 

XlKUl  . . 

44 

S.  SK.,  niodcintc 

rirarand  .sunnliinc. 

8  p.  m.. 

41 

41.7 

do 

Clear  i.nd  minrthint',  with  Hhowei-H. 

5 

30 

AV.  NW.,  fresh 

OvereaHt.  wet  nniiw. 

Noon  . . 

38 

NAV.,  very  strong 

OvercaHt.  liail. 

8  p.m.. 

3;) 

30.  7 

do 

Ho. 

6 

8ii.  m.. 
Noon  .. 

39 

AV.,  ni(«liTnto 

SW.,  mndi'i-atc. 

Hunnliine  iind  at  tinicH  Iiail,  fh  .11 ,  and 

elundiMr 

8  p.  ni . . 
H  u.  m . . 

36 
30 

3(1.0 

S  SK    li);ht 

OvereaHt  an<l  liiie  (^now. 

7 

NAV.,  iiiodcrate 

Snntihhie,  at  linie>4  snow. 

Nmm  .. 
8  p.  ni . . 

38 
30 

...do 

Clear  and  MnnHblne. 
Overcast,  at  tinnw  snow. 

32.7 

do 

S 

29 

Clear  and  MunNliine,  wiihnnt  eloudH. 

Noon  . . 

41 

do. 

8  p.  m.. 
8  n.  m . . 

NfMlIl   .  - 

8  p.m.. 

38 

30  0 

E.  SK.,  fii'sh 

OvciTaHt  and  wet  Hnow, 

!l 

30 
44 

38 

Ovi-reast  and  dark. 

\V.  S\V.,  licht 

40.  3 

S.  S\V.,  linlit. 

10 

8  a.  m.. 
Noon  . . 
8  p.  m . . 

do 

Do. 

44 

39 

N.  NK.,  lijjht 

Do. 

3.-1.3 

do 

Do. 

11 

8  a.  ni . . 
Noon  . . 
8  p.m.. 

35 
41 
39 

do 

Cloudy  and  at  tinie«  Hnow. 
Clear  atiil  sunshine. 
Clear  and  witlmut  rlnudH. 

.  do 

35.0 

do 

3« 
.13 

do 

Do. 

NiMin  . . 

do 

Clear,  HunHliine,  anrl  without  elitiulM. 

8  p.m.. 

2(i 

28.  3 

do 

Clear  and  withfiiit  elimilH. 

13 

8  a.  m . . 

26 
37 

Do. 

do  

!).>. 

8  1).  m.. 

:ifl 

;ifl.3 

do 

Do. 

14 

Ha.  m-. 

34 

do 

Do. 

NiMHl  . . 

8  p.  m . . 

32 

iitt -  - 

Clear.  Monnhine.  rhanU, 
Clear  and  xaiiahle. 

33.7 

N  N\V    fn-sh             .   .    . 

I 


238  ALASKA  COAST  TTLOT. 

Journal  of  meteorological  ohgerrations,  &c. — Coiitiimed. 


a 


IBIUi. 

Ji'ov.  ITt 

8  11.  Ill . . 

NlHIII    .. 

(^  p.  HI . . 

l(i 

H  a.  III.. 

NoiHi  . . 

f*.  ]>.  m.. 

n 

f  11.  111.. 

Nonll  .. 

H  p.  111.. 

IH 

I>  11.  111.. 

>"ll(lll  .. 

H  p.  Ill . . 

19 

H  11.  111.. 

Nonll  . . 

K  p.  111.. 

ao 

H  11.  III.. 

Kitnli  . . 

f  Jt.  111.. 

SI 

H  11.  Ill . . 

XcMin  . . 

8  p.  Ill . . 

22 

8  11.  Ill . . 

NlMlII    .  . 

f  p.  Ill . . 

3:1 

8  a.  Ill . . 

No<m  .. 

8  p.  111.. 

94 

8a.  111.. 

NlKIII  .. 

8  ]l.  111.. 

95 

8  a.  Ill . . 

Xniill  . . 

8  p.  111.  . 

afi 

H  a.  III.. 

Xdiiii  .. 

8  p.  111.. 

97 

8  II.  Ill . . 

Niinn  . . 

8  l>.  III.. 

3f: 

8  ri  111 . . 

NlMlll      . 

8  p.  111.. 

29 

8  a.  111.. 

Noun  . 

8  p.  Ill . 

30 

8  a.  Ill . 

Noon  . 

H  p.  111. 

UfC.      1 

8  a.  III. 

NiMlll 

8  p,  in 

29 

:io 
;t:i 

27 
41 
32 
39 
39 
32 
38 
40 
40 
41 
42 
38 
40 
41 
38 
39 
42 
39 
32 
42 
41 
37 
42 
41 
39 
40 
3.) 
3.-1 
42 
3.-) 

;io 
34 

30 
29 
40 
34 
34 

:w 

3fi 
2tl 

3r> 

34 
31 
31 
29 


:t2.  7 


3:1.3 


34.3 


39.  7 


40.0 


38.3 


40.  U 


38.0 


31.7 


Dirt'rtion  and   forrc  of 
tlio  wiiiil. 


yW.,  nioilcrjite 

W.  N\V.,  iii(Kliiat«. 

W.,  iiKMlcrato 

N.NE.,  lijiht 

do 

N.NW.,  fir«li 

N.  N IC,  inoilorato  . . 
do 


do 

SE.,  viTj-frfBh 

E.  SE.,     iry  ficnli . 

do 


K.,  very  freHli 

do 

K.  XE.,  vi'iy  fit'sli . 

E.,  IVi'Hh 

K.  XE.,  fivsli 

X.  Xi:.,  vtiy  ficidi 

NE.,  tiioiliTiiti* . . .. 

E.  NIC,  iiiodrrato  . 
do 


N.  XE.,  iiimlt'rato  . 

do 

do 


NE.,  miKl(»rat«  . 

do 

do 


N.NE.,lit'lil 

do 

N.  XE..  modornto  ... 

\V.,  nioiU'vato 

do 

W.  N\V.,  v.'iy  IVcHh. 

NW.,  I'li'sli 

do 


do 

\V.  X\V.,  niodoratc. 

N.NE.,  Unlit 

E.  NE.,  fii'idi 

XE.,  fii'nh 

NE.,  iiKMliTnto 

N.  XK.,  frenh 

Culm 

do 

N.NE.,  fii'Hli 


Wiatlicr. 


CU'ar  and  occasional  snow, 

l>o. 

Mo. 
Clear  and  without  cloiidH. 

Do. 
Clc)»:  and  ocniHioiiul  hhow. 
(^'Ifiir  illiit  witliiiut  cloudH. 
Clear.  HiiiiHliiiir,  clmid.s. 

Do. 
Gloomy  and  at  tinicH  hiiow. 
OviTcjiMt  and  wet  niiow. 
Ovci-caHl  and  i-aiu. 

Do. 

Do. 

Uo. 

Do. 

Do. 
Cloudy  and  a(  times  i-aiii, 
OvereaMt  and  at  times  rain. 

Do. 
<']i>ar  and  at  tiiiieH  rain. 
Clear  and  cloudy. 

Do. 
OvcrcftHt  and  rain. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 
Ovornist  and  wot  »iiow. 

Do. 

Do. 
Clear  anil  clouds. 

Do. 
Overcast,  wet  snow. 
Clear  aiitt  at  timcH  snow, 
(.'tear  and  uunsliiiic. 
Clear  and  at  tInieH  snow. 

Do. 
Clear  and  without  clouds. 
Overciist,  snow. 

Do. 

Do, 
Clear  and  at  times  hnilini;. 
Clear  and  sunshine. 
Ove.cast,  snow. 
Clear  and  at  times  snow. 

Do. 
(.'Ic'iir,  elonds. 

Do, 
<'lear  and  at  times  siinw. 

lilnnloy  and  tlliek  snow. 

titiHiim  anil  at  times  snow. 


j 


A 


:i   ; 


Minn  Iiiii|Mnitinf  tnr  NoMtnlHr.  :Hi.  1  dtiirci-s.     Whi'I.  N.  XK.     Kiiin  ;  miiow. 


ALASKA  COAST  riLOT. 
Journal  of  meteorological  observations,  cfo. — Contiuued. 


239 


1 

u 
"a 

a 
£ 

1 

Direction  and  force  of 
tiio  wind. 

■Weather. 

I) 

1800. 
I'l',     2 

3 
4 
5 

0 
7 
8 
0 
10 
11 

n 

13 
14 
15 
10 
17 
IH 

19 

* 

H  a. in.. 
Nmin  . . 
8  ]).  ni . . 
8  a.  ni.. 
N(K)n  . . 
H  !».  111.. 
H  a.  in . 
Nonii  . . 
8  p.  Ill . . 
8a.  in.. 
Xoon  .. 
8  p.  Ill . . 
8  a.  in . . 

N'HHl  . . 

8  p.  in.. 
8  a.  Ill . . 
Noon  . . 
8p.  m.. 
8  a.  m.. 
Noon  . . 
8  p.  in.. 
8  a.  m.. 
Noon  .. 
8  p.m.. 
8  a.  m.. 
Noon  . . 
8  p.  ni . . 
8  a.  m.. 
Noon  . . 
8  p.  ni . . 
8  a.  in . . 

NlMHl  . . 

8  p.m.. 

8  a.  m . . 
Xoon  . . 
8  p.  in . . 
8  a.  m.. 
Noon  .. 
8p.m.. 
8  a.  m . . 
Noon  . . 
8p  in.. 
8  a.  m . . 
Noon  . . 
8  p.  m.. 
8  a.  Ill . . 
Nwni  . . 
8  p.  m 
8  a.  in.. 
No^in  . . 
8  p.  m . . 
8b.  Itt.. 
NiHUi  . . 
8  p.  m.. 

0 

•u 

24 

a.-> 

20 
34 
2.5 
21 

:io 

24 
24 

28 
28 
32 

;!9 
:t» 

40 

;i8 

40 

:w 

33 
33 
30 
38 
42 
40 
30 
40 
38 
30 
44 
33 
37 
41 
38 
3.i 
39 
35 
37 
38 
38 
39 
43 
41 
30 
IW 
30 
30 
39 
3.5 
3."> 
39 
37 

0 

Clear  and  at  times  .snow. 

1)0. 

Do. 

Do. 
Clear  and  suiisliine. 
t'loudy  and  lliiek  snow. 
Clear  and  at  times  snow. 

Do. 
Cloudy  ami  at  limes  snow. 
Clear  innl  variulite. 

Do. 
Cloudy  iind  jinurin^  rains. 

Do. 
C!loudy,  rain,  and  snow. 
Clundy  mid  rain. 
Ovei-east,  rain,  ami  snow. 
Clear  and  at  limes  rain. 

Do. 
Clear  and  variable. 

Do. 

Do. 
Clear,  smisliiiio. 

Do. 
Clear  and  elondy. 
Overcast  and  mueli  rain. 

Do. 
Clondy  and  tine  rain. 
Cloudy  and  at  times  rain. 
Cloudy  and  heavy  rain. 
Clear  and  at  times  rain. 

Do. 

Do. 
Cloudy  anil  at  times  rain. 
Clear  and  at  times  rain, 
('loudy  and  at  limes  ruin. 
Clear  and  at  limes  rain. 
Clear  and  elimdy. 
Clear,  sunshine,  and  at  times  rain. 

Do. 
Dari'  and  tine  rain. 
Cloudy  and  wet  snow. 
Clear  and  at  liini"<  rain. 
Cloudy  tiiiil  heavy  vain. 

Do. 

Do. 
Cloudy  and  tliiek  snow, 
(.'leiir  iind  sunshine. 
C/lear  and  at  times  rain. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do, 
Clondy  and  heavy  snow. 
Eny  and  line  snow. 
Clear  and  eloudy. 

24.3 

20.3 

23.0 

20.0 

30.  0 
39.0 

E.,flT«ll 

N   NE    liL'lit    

do 

S.  SE.,  modfiato 

do   

39.3 

S W.  iniMiorato 

do 

do 

34. « 

SE.,  fi-rali 

E.  NE.,  very  frcsli 

do 

40.0 
39.0 

do 

.S.  SW.,  very  fresli 

S\V.,  very  fioHli 

S.  SE.,  moderate 

.     . .  do 

do 

37.0 

do 

do 

38.0 

do 

do   

S.  S\V.,  nioilerato 

do   

do 

37.  0 

E.  X  E.,  very  strong 

E.  !Sl!,.,  very  fre»li 

do 

41.0 
31.0 

do       

NE    lijilit 

H.  SE.,  niodirati! 

do 

do   

30.0 

i|o       

do 

37.0 

E.  NE.,  moderate 

240  ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 

Journal  of  meteoroUnjiml  observatiom,  tCc. — CoJitiiuie(L 


s 


I)i-f.  -JO 


St 


3S 


33 


35 


36 


37 


29 


IPtiT. 
.)itn.      1 


H  a.  Ill 

N(H>M  . 
H  p.  Ill . 
8  n.  Ill . 
Ni«)ii  . 
8  ]).  in . 
8  a.  Ill . 
NiMin  . 
8  II.  ra. 
8  a,  in . 

NlMlll   , 

H  p.  III. 
8  a.  ni . 

NlKtll  . 
8  p.  Ml. 
8  n,  in . 
Noon  . 
8  p.m. 
8  a.  111. 
NiMm  . 
8  p.  in . 
H  a.  Ill  ■ 
Nunn  . 
8  p.  111. 
8  n.  m. 
NiKin  . 
8  p.  Ill . 
8  a.  in. 
NtMin  . 
H  p.  in. 
8  n.  in . 
Nihui  . 
8  p.  111. 
8  a.  Ill . 
Noon  . 
8  p.  ni. 

8  a.  m. 
Nmm  . 
8  p.m.. 
8  a.  in . 
Xooii  . 
8  p.  m 
8  a.  III. 
Ximhi  . 
8  p.  in . . 
8  a.  m. 
NiHin  . 
H  ji.  m., 
8  a.  m 
Noon  . 
8  p.  Ill . , 


3!) 

aii 
:ii 

.10 

a« 
at 

114 
■M 

:n 

M 

:m 
:t.-i 

2() 


.■17 
4J 

:n 
:i4 
;)() 

:ii 

III! 

:ii 
:i(i 
a:t 
111 
111) 
nil 

119 
III! 

35 

III) 
it(i 

III! 

Ill) 
iiii 

III! 
117 

iir> 

113 
119 

ll,'l 
ll.'l 

H.-i 
30 


•-'!).  0 


99.0 


110.  II 


Direction  anil    force  of 
tliu  wind. 


SW.,  niotU'Vato 

S.  SU'.,  iiiiMli'i-atu 

.•<.  .S\V.,  fiv«li 

X.,  fi'f.sli 

N. ,  very  frewli 

<lo 

riiiiii 

NE.,  fri..sli 

E.  XK.,  very  fri-.sh 

X'.  XE.,  iiuMleratc 

X,  XE.,  liiilit 

E.  XE.,  fivsli 

N.XE.,fio»li 

ilo 

X.XE.,  lislit 

ilo 

ilo 

X.  XE..  freah 

XE.,  moderatp 

iln 

X.  XK.,  very  fresh 

ilo 

X.  X' W.,  very  Htrong 

X* \V.,  very  stronj; 

W.  X\V.,  fiesh 

ilo 

W.,  fri'Nli 

\V.  X\V'.,  fresh 

ilo 

do 

X.XE.,  lljiht 

Ciilin 

E.  XE.,  moderate 

E.  SI*^,  mnilerate 

E.  SE..  fresh 

E.XE..  fresh 


E.,  moderate 

E.  SE.,  moderate 

E.,  nioderiite 

S.SE..li(;ht 

S.  SW..  moderate 

E.  SE..  very  fresh 

S.,  fresh 

do 

S.  S\V.,  moderate 

do 

S.,  moderato 

X.  XE..  very  fresh 

X.  XE.,li(rht 

do j    Clear  nml  HuiiMliinM. 

X'.XE.,  fresh I    Clear  and  elomly, 

'Menu  tomperatnre  for  Deeenilicr.  113.87  dPKrees. 


Weather. 


Clear  and  at  timc.'t  rain. 

Do. 

Do. 
(Menr  and  elondy. 
Cloudy  and  at  tiiiie.^  snow. 
Clear  and  elomly. 

Do. 
Dark,  poiirinf;  rains. 

Do. 
Clear  and  no  elonds. 
Clear  and  siinshino. 
Clear  and  ehuidy. 
Clear  and  witliont  eloiuls. 
Clear  and  at  times  snow. 
Clear  and  without  eloiuts. 

Do. 
Clear,  snnsliiiie,  clouds. 
Clear  and  cloudy. 
Dark,  rain. 

Do. 
Dark  and  wet  snow. 

Do. 
Dark  and  at  times  snow. 
Dark  and  snow. 
Dark  and  at  times  snow. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 
Clear  and  without  clouds. 
(.*lcar  and  sniiHliiiie. 
Clear  and  at  times  rain. 

Do. 

Do. 
Dark  and  wet  snow. 


Dark  and  hea\-y  rain. 
Clear  and  at  times  rain. 
Dark  and  heavy  rain. 
Clear  and  at  times  rain. 

Do. 
Dark  and  flue  snow. 
CUMir  and  at  times  snow. 

1)0. 

Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Dark  and  wet  snow. 
Do. 


E 


18C7. 
Jiui.     C 


10 


13 


13 


15 


le 


so 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 

Journal  of  meieoroloykal  obscrmtionn,  itc. — Continued. 


241 


8  a.  m.. 
Moon  . . 
8  p.m.. 
8  a.  m.. 
Noon  .. 
8  p.  in . . 
8  a.  ni.. 
Noon  .. 
8  p.m.. 
8  a.  lu.. 
Noon  ., 
8  p.m.. 
8  n.  m . 
Koon  . 
8  p.  ni . 
8  a.  ni . 
Noon  . 
8  p.  ni . 
8  a.  ni . 
Noon  . 
8  p.  ni . 
8  n.  m. 

Noon  . 

8  p.  ni. 

8  n.  ni. 

Noon  . 

8  p.m. 

8  a.  ni. 

Noon  . 

8  p.  ni . 

8  a.  m. 

Noon  . 

8p,  m. 

8n.  ni. 

Noon  . 

8  p.  ni . 

8  a.  ni . 

Noon  . 

8  p.  ni . 

8  a.  m. 

Noon  . 

8  ]).  ni . 

8  a.  ni. 

Noon  . 

8  p.  m . 

8n.  m. 

Noon  . 

8  p.  ni . 

8  a.  m. 

N(H)n  . 

H  p.  m. 

8  a.  m, 

NiMin  , 

8  p.  ni . 

31 


M 
3.) 
33 
33 
33 
34 
33 
3S 
33 
33 
37 
38 
S7 
38 
3.") 
Xt 
30 
37 
31 
41 
43 
30 
3-3 
39 
20 
37 

a« 

3.") 
34 
34 
30 
31 
38 
30 
30 
31 
3ri 
39 
30 
39 
3.') 
36 
19 
33 
38 
30 
3r^ 
39 
31 
37 
3!l 

31 
M 


33.3 


33.0 


33.3 


33.  G 


33.3 


30.0 


30.0 


30.3 


30.  3 


39.6 


39. 0 


30.6 


30.0 


30.3 


33.  3 


Direction  ami  force  of 
the  wiucl. 


N.NK.,fr(>»li 

ilo 

N.  N\V.,  moderate  . . . 

N.,  very  Ire.Hli 

ilo 

N.  NK.,  voiy  strong. . 

W.,  very  IVe«h 

■\V.SW.,fn»h 

S.  S\V.,  I'reHh 

S.  .SW.,  moderates 

do 

S.SW.,  light 

do 


S.SK.,li);ht 

E.SK.,Iis;lil 

E.  NIC,  moderate 
NK.,  niotlerate  . . . 
N. NK.,  nioderatt^ 
di) 


do.... 

N.,  fresh. 
do..  . 


do 

N.,  very  fresh 

N.  N\V.,  very  fresh. 
do 

N.,  very  fresh 

N.  NW.,  very  fresh. 
do 

N.,  very  fresh 

N.NK..  IVe.'ih 

do 

do 


do 

do 

N.  NW.,  very  fresli. 

N.,  fresh 

do 


N.  N\V.,nv.sh 

N.  N\\'.,  moderate 

N.,  modtTste 

do 


N.  NE.,li(?ht. 
do 

Calm 

do 


do. 


do 

di> 

E.  NK.,  mtiderate. 

Calm 

X.  N'E..  ntoderate. 
do 

E.  NE.,  niodi-rate  . 


Weather. 


Dark  ami  fine  snow. 
Clear  and  tine  snow. 
Clear  and  without  elonds. 
Clear  and  iloudy. 
Dark  and  Ihn^  snow. 
Dark  ami  heavy. 
Dark  and  line  snow 
Dark  and  snow  at  limes. 

Do. 
Clear  and  snow  at  times. 
Clear  and  sunshine. 
Clear  ami  witliont  <'Iouds. 
Clear  and  elomls. 
Do. 
Do. 
Dark  and  snow. 
Dark  and  tiio'  ruin. 

Do. 
J*ark  and  rain. 
Dark  and  snow. 

Do. 
('lenrand  without  >:lui.d^. 
Do. 
Do. 
Clear  and  at  times  clouds. 
Do. 
Do. 
Clear  and  at  tinies  snow. 
Do. 
Do. 
(^lear  and  snii^hine. 
Clear  ami  ehmds. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Clear  ami  at  times  snow. 
Clear  and  at  times  clouds. 

Do. 
Clear  andelcnnly. 
('tear  and  at  times  snow. 
(*lear  and  sunshine. 
(Mear  and  without  clouds. 

Do. 
Clear  and  sunshine, 
('lear  and  at  tinn's  clouds. 

Do. 

C^ear  and  snnshiue. 

(.-leaf  and  without  clouds. 

Do. 

D... 

Do. 

Clear  and  al  limes  clouds. 

Do. 
Clear  and  cloudy. 


I 


242  ALAHKA  (JOAST  PILOT. 

Journal  of  meteorological  obHcrmtions,  d-c. — Coiitiimoil. 


1 

H 

i 

i 

Direction  and  foico  of 
tliu  wiuil. 

Weather. 

IhBV. 

0 

o 

Jan.   'M 

8  a.  m. 

;m 

j    NK.,  fiTsli 

Overca«t  or  dark  and  tine  Hnow. 

N(Hin  . 

35 

ilo 

Overeawt  and  lieavy  Hiiow. 

8  p.  m . 

3.3 

34.0 

ilo 

OvereaNt  and  ill  linieHHuow. 

SI5 

«  n.  m. 

34 

N.  NE.,  nioileiato 

Clear  ami  elondy. 

Noon  . 
8  Jl.  Ill . 

34 

30.3 

N.,fn'8li 

Do. 
Clear  and  Hitlimit  eloiids. 

do 

36 

8n.  111. 

a? 

'    N W.,  iiiodcrato 

Clear  and  eIoud.y. 
Clear  and  Hiinidiiiie. 

NlMlll   . 

;i;t 

I    W.  N\V.,  niodciatc 

H  11.111. 

s» 

28.3 

N.  N W.,  modeiatu 

Clear  and  witlioiit CIondH. 

87 

8  11.  111.. 

85 

Calm 

Clear  and  at  tiiniH  elondH. 
Clear  and  at  timcH  «now. 
Clear  and  at  limes  eloiiilM. 

Nuon  .. 

38 

■\V.,  modenitc 

8  p.  111.. 

80 

30.6 

do 

S8 

8«.  111.. 

35 

do 

Clear  and  witliout  elinida. 

Nuou  .. 

30 

SW.,  niodi'iate 

Clear  and  at  tinie.s  miow. 

Do. 
Clear  and  witliout  eliinds. 

8  p.  Ill . . 
8n.  111.. 

35 

30 

35.3 

Calm 

B9 

E.,  flCHll 

NlMlIl  .. 

:i8 

do 

Clear  ami  elondy. 
Do 

8  p.  m . . 

35 

30.3 

NE.,  vory  .■(troiiK 

90 

8  n.  111.. 

36 

E.  NE.,  vi'iy  strong 

Dark  and  wet  miiow. 

NiMin  .. 

38 

NE.,fic»li 

Jlark  and  One  snow. 

Dark  and  at  times  ralu.                     ' 

8  p.  HI.. 

;i5 

30.3 

do 

»t 

8  n.  Ill . . 

29 

K.,  pale 

Dark  and  line  .snow.            :■       .. 
Clear  anil  cloudv. 

- 

XlMIU  .. 

87 

do 

8  p.m.. 

31 

25.0 

do 

C'loiidy  and  snow. 

l-cb.     1 

8  a.  Ill . . 

21) 

do 

Clear  and  at  t  lines  snow. 

Komi  . . 

28 

N.  NW.,  lri.Hli 

Cloudy  anil  at  times  snow. 

8  11.111.. 

8  11.  111.. 

20 
15 

20.7 

N\V.,  I'leNli 

Do. 
Do. 
Clear  and  at  times  auow. 
Do. 

a 

do 

Xunli  . . 

10 

do. 

8  p.  III.. 

13 

14.7 

do 

:) 

8  (I.  Ill . . 
Noon  . . 

17 

20 

do 

Do. 
Do. 

N.  N\V.,  fii'sh 

8  p.  111.. 

lit 

10.7 

N.,  very  frisli 

Do. 

4 

8  a. in.. 

10 

N.  N\V.,  fnali  

Clear  anil  eloudv.                                     ' 

20 

do 

Clear  and  at  times  snow. 
Clear  and  cloudy. 

8  p.  111.. 

17 

17.7     ' 

W.  N\V.,  inndi'rato 

D 

8  a.  Ill . . 

27 

i 

E.  NE.,  very  i'lesll 

Dark  and  snow. 

Noou  . . 
8  p.  III.. 

31 
34 

do 

Dark. 

Dark  and  snow.                                            , 

1 

30.7    1 

NE.,  moderate 

6 

8  a.  111.. 

30 

Calm 

Clear  and  without  clouds. 

Clear,  suiisliine,  and  elonds.                          "  - 

JsOdU   . . 

44 

do 

8  p.  Ill . . 

33 

33.7 

do 

Cloudy  and  at  times  snow. 

7 

8a.m.. 
Noon  .. 
8p.m.. 

33 
4!) 
34 

1 

do 

Do. 
Do 
Clear  and  at  limes  clouds. 

do 

38.3    1 

S.  SK.,  moderate 

8 

8  a.  III.. 

30 

! 

S.  S\V.,  moderiite. 

I 

Noon  . . 

44 

>S\V.,  moderate. 

8  p.  ni . . 

33 

3r>. «  ; 

E.  .SE.,  very  fresli. 

'---  :     "■                    "-i--*--:..,  •■■.■":■  :■ 

D 

8  a.  in . . 

3il 

S.,  fre.sli. 

..-..,..            .    -    .    -     -    ...        .,:....    ,-    .,                        ■.,,- 

Noon  . . 

42 

Sn-..  tle.sli. 

8p,  m.. 

33 

38.  0 

do. 

'Mean  Icinpiialiiri  Im  .lanu.iiv,  31.00  dinices. 


ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 

Journal  of  meh»'oh>gical  obserrationK,  dr. — Continued. 


243 


1 

1 

1 

1 

i 

t 

Direction  and  forco  of 

tlic   Wlllll. 

AVeallier. 

1667. 

o 

o 

Fob.   10 

8  n.  Ill . . 
Noon  .. 

32 
30 

S.  SW.,  fresh. 
S\V.,  fiesli. 

Sp.m.. 

3S 

33.3 

E.  SK.,fri>Bli. 

11 

H  n.  m.. 
Noon  .. 
8  ]).  m . . 

30 
45 

S.  SE.,  moiU'rato. 

35 

38.6 

Calm. 

12 

8  a.  ni . . 
Noou  .. 

87 
28 

■\V.  NW.,  vary  atronfc. 
N\V.,  fresh. 

8  p.  ni . . 

20 

27.0 

N.  NW.,  fresh. 

13 

8  n.  ni.. 

29 
34 

Calm. 
do. 

8  p.m.. 

30 

33.0 

SW.,  moderate. 

14 

44 

Ch^nr  and  elmidy. 

Noon  .. 
8  p.  Ill . . 

do 

Do. 

48 

4.5.  fi 

do 

Do. 

15 

8  n.  m . . 
Noon  .. 
8  p.  m.. 

40 

...(1(1 

Do. 

52 
42 

do 

Cle.ir  and  without  elouds. 
Clear  and  at  tiioes  rain. 

41.0 

do 

Ifi 

Pn.  ni.. 
Noon  .. 
8  p.m.. 
H  11.  in . . 
N<»n  .. 
8  p.m.. 
8  tt.  m.. 

37 
37 
34 

30.0 

S.  SW.,fiean     

Clear  and  at  times  liail. 
Dark  and  at  limes  snow. 
Clear  and  without  elouds. 

SW.,  fresh 

S.  SW.,  frusli 

17 

20 

Cafni 

Do. 

42 
34 

do 

Clear,  sunshine,  and  clouds. 
Clear  and  eloudy. 

34.0 

E.NE.,  fresh 

IS 

34 

E.  NE.,  very  fresh 

Dark  and  wet  suow. 

Noon  . . 

30 

SW.,  very  fresh 

Do. 

H  p.  ni . . 

35 

35.0 

do 

Do. 

19 

34 

■W.NW.,  fresh 

Clear  and  at  limes  cloudy. 

Noon  .. 

33 

W.  NW.,  moderate 

Clear  and  without  elouds. 

Sp.m.. 

29 

33.3 

N.  NE.,  moderate 

Do. 

SO 

8  n.  ni . . 

39 

S., fresh 

Clear  and  eloudy. 

Noon  .. 
8p.  m.. 

44 

42 

.     ..do 

Dark  and  due  suow. 
Clear  a. id  eloudy. 

41.  C 

do 

21 

8  ft.  in. . 

44 

S.,  fresh 

Clear  and  cloudy. 

Noou  .. 
8  p.m.. 
8  a.  in . . 

48 

do 

Do. 

38 

43.3 

S.,  moderate 

Clear  and  dark  weather. 

S2 

37 

SW., fresh 

Clear  and  without  cluuds. 

Noon  .. 
8  p.  m.. 

W.  SW.,  fresh 

Do. 

34 

3ti.3 

do 

Clear  and  eloudy. 

aj 

8  n.  in . . 

35 

W.  SW.,  moderate 

Clear  and  without  elouds. 

36 

"W.,  moderate 

Clear  and  at  limes  suow. 

8  p.  m . . 
8  11.  in . . 

34 

26 

SW.,  fresh 

Do. 

84 

AV.  NAV.,  very  fresh 

Clear  and  eloudy. 

Noon  ,. 

25 

N.  N W.,  very  fresli 

Do. 

8  p.  ni . . 
8  a.  ra . . 
Noon  .. 
8  p.m.. 

24.0 

N.  fresh   

Do. 

85 

26 
29 

Clear  and  without  clouds. 

do 

Do. 

17 

84.0 

do 

Do. 

SO 

8  a.  ni.. 
Noou  .. 
8  p.m.. 
8  a.  m . . 
Noon  .. 
8  p.  ill . 

;i2 

do 

Cle.ar,  sunshine,  without  clouds 
Do. 

33 
39 
41 

35 

SK.  fresh 

Clear  and  cloudy, 

87 

S  SE.  frcsli 

Do. 

.do 

Do. 

38.3 

do  

Do. 

244  ALASKA  COAST  PILOT. 

Jourmil  of  mcteoi-olotjival  ohHerrafinnH,  dr. — f'oiitimiod. 


1807. 
Feb.   88 


iliir. 


; 


10 


u 


IS 


I 

I 


H  a.  m. 

;iii 

Ndiiii  . 

40 

«  11.  m . 

:il 

H  n.  Ill . 

:i', 

^oini  . 

■M 

8  p.  111. 

;« 

8  H.  Ill . 

It) 

XlMIIl   . 

4.1 

H  p.  Ill . 

'JH 

H  a.  III. 

;ij 

NlKHl    . 

•i."i 

8  p.  III. 

;« 

H  a.  ni.. 

:w 

Nuoii  .. 

3t> 

8  p.  111.. 

33 

8  a.  HI., 

:),"> 

l\'ooii  .. 

4:t 

8  p.  111.. 

3(i 

8  a.  m . . 

37 

Noon  . . 

3!) 

8  p.m.. 

35 

8».  m.. 

3!) 

Noou  .. 

41 

8  p.m.. 

ao 

8  a.  m.. 

,')5 

Noon  .. 

37 

8  p.  Ill . . 

35 

8ii.  111.. 

38 

No<in  .. 

40 

8  p.  Ill . . 

3li 

8a.m.. 

3li 

NtHIII  .. 

4-) 

8  p.  Ill . . 

34 

8  a.  Ill . . 

3-2 

Noon  . . 

43 

8  p.  III.. 

34 

8  a.  ni . . 

31 

Noon  .. 

43 

8  p.  Ill . . 

■J9 

8  n.  lu . . 

37 

Noon  .. 

43 

8  p.m.. 

33 

8  a.  m.. 

34 

Noon  . . 

39 

8  p.m.. 

37 

8  a.  in.. 

35 

Noon  . . 

47 

8  p.  m.. 

35 

8  a.  m.. 

Xi 

Noon  .. 

48 

8  p.m.. 

35 

■3 


3(1.  3 


33.3 


.35.6 


38.0 


30.  0 


Hiieftliin  and  forii   of 
tlu!  wind. 


S.  SK.,fiP»li. 

do 

SK.,  fiiHli..., 
S.  SK.,llBlit. 
<JiiIiii 


.do. 
.do. 


.do. 
.do. 


do 

do , 

do 

N.  NK.,  motlcratn . 
do 

N.  NK.,  fiv»h 

NE.,  luodcratfl 

do 

E.  NE.,  moderate . 
do 

E.,  iiiodcrato 

E.  NE.,  lifTht 

HW.,  fiOBh 

do 

Calm 

E.  NE.,  fresli 

E.|  very  fresh 

do 

E.  SE.,  very  fro-ili. 
do 


E.,  very  fionh  . 

SE.,lreHli 

S.  SE.,  frcHli  .. 
do 


E.  NE.,  fiTsli 

S.  .SE.,  I'losli 

.S.  SE.,  moderate  . . . . 

Calm 

do 


.do. 
.do. 


.do. 
.do. 


S.SE.,fte8li 

do 

NE.,  fresh 

N.NE.,  fresh 

N.  NW..  moderate  . 

W.  NW.,  light 

Calm 

do 

38.0        E.NE.,  ftwh 


A\'t;atlier. 


Ck'iir,  siiiishiiie,  and  at  times  cloiuls. 

Do. 
Clear  and  without  oIoiiiIh. 
Clear,  siiiiHliiue,  witliuiit  eluuds. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Clear  iind  eloudy, 
t;iear  mid  willniiit  clouds. 
Clear  and  cloiidy. 
Clear  and  witlioiif  rliiudn. 
(.'le.ir,  Hun.sliine,  witlioul  eiouds. 
Clear  and  iit  times  eluiuls. 
I>iirk  1111(1  line  .snow. 
Daik  and  wit  snow. 
Darlt  unci  ruin. 
Dai  k  and  wet  enow. 
Dark  and  heavy  rain. 
Dark  ,iiid  line  snow. 
Clear  and  cloudy, 
(,'lear  and  siiiisliiiie,  no  clouds. 
Clear  and  without  eloiids. 
Dark  and  line  siio»r. 
Dark  and  line  rain. 
Dark  and  lu'avy  rain. 

Do. 
Clear  and  at  times  rain, 
(ilooniy  ,'ind  heavy  rain. 
Cloudy  and  at  times  rain. 

Do. 
Clear  and  at  times  ruin. 
Dark  and  thick  snow. 
(,'lcar  and  at  times  snow. 
(;loudyandat  times  snow. 
Clear,  sunshine,  without  clouds. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Clear  and  cloudy. 
Do. 
Do. 
Dark  and  thick  snow. 
Clear  and  cloudy. 
Do. 
Do. 
Clear,  sunshine,  and  cloudy. 
Dark  and  wet  snow. 


•ileau  temperature  for  February,  3:1.3a  deprces. 


ie67. 

Uar.  n 


le 


ID 


SI 


32 


S» 


84 


25 


26 


27 


39 


30 


ALAHKA  COAST  PILOT. 

Journnl  of  meteorological  ohmrmtionif,  ctr.— Coiitimieil. 


u:> 


8  1.  Ill . . 
Noon  .. 
8  p.  III.. 
H  a.  111.. 
Noon  . , 
t*  !>.  III.. 
B  11.  Ill . . 
Noon  ., 
^  p.  in . 
H  a.  lu.. 
Noon  . 
H  p.  Ill . 
8  n.  Ill . 
Noon  . 
8  p. III. 
8  a.  III. 
Noon  . 
8  p.m. 
8  a.  in . 
Noon  . 

8  p.  111. 

8  11.  in . 
Noon  . 
8  p.  ni . 
8  a.  III. 
Noon  . 
8  p.  III. 
8  a.  m. 

NiMllI  . 

8  p.  m . 
8  a.  ni . 
Noon  . 
8  \).  in. 
8  a.  in . 
Noon  . 
8  p.m. 
8  a.  m. 
Noon  . 
8p.m. 
8  a.  ni . 
Noon  . 
8  p.m. 


t 

i 


40 

43 

3« 

38 

40 

31 

3S 

44 

37 

45 

40 

44 

44 

45 

40 

42 

49 

39 

38 

43 

43 

41 

44 

37 

41! 

43 

36 

32 

34 

28 

35 

23 

21 

23 

35 

27 

37 

42 

35 

29 

3fi 

24 


40.3 


30.3 


39.0 


44.3 


43.0 


40.6 


40.3 


31.3 


23.0 


Ulii'i'tlon  mill  I'orii' 
tUo  wliul, 


or 


.S.  SK.,  niodcrato 

S.  SK.,  liKlit 

do 

.....do 

do 

Calm 

do 

S.SK.,ll)jlit 

K..  irt'illl 

S.,  i'ltwU 

do 

K.SK,,  firnh 

S.  SK.,  fii'Hli 

do 

K.SK.,  fiTsh 

S. SE.,  ficBh 

do 

S.S\V'.,  ficsU 

a  SE.,  IVoHli 

do 

E.  SE.,  I'lTsli 

SE.,  I'losb 

do 

S.  S\V.,  moiU'iato  . . . 

do 

do 

AV.,  iiiodi.'iatc 

do 

W.,  S\V.,  modirate  . 

NW.,  fici,li 

N.,  Kiilo 

N.,  vt'ry  Htroiij? 

N\V.,  fiTsli 


SE.,  fivah 

S\V.,  fiinh 

do 

W.,  viiy  fieali . 

N.,  fiesli 

do 

SE.,  niodcrato.. 


AVcttllicr. 


Char  and  iloiiily. 

Do. 
Cloudy  and  at  tiiiicH  rain. 

I'o. 
Cli'ur  iiiid  at  tiiiirH  rain. 
Clrar  and  w  itliont  iloiidii. 
Cli'iir  and  <'loiul>-. 

n<. 

(ilnnniy  and  lit-avy  rain. 

(Ml  ar,  Kiiiinliini',  at  tinica  cloiidH. 

1)0. 

Dark  and  rain. 

C'K'ur  and  at  llniiH  inin. 

Cli'ar,  Hiintihiiio,  at  tiniert  cloniU. 

(ilooiiiy  and  lit-avy  rain. 

Clear  and  at  tiiiioH  vain. 

Cloar  and  clondy. 

Do. 

Do. 
Clonr,  Hniislilni',  witliout  ilondn. 
Dark  anil  rain. 

Do. 
Clear  and  cloudy. 

Do. 
Dark  ami  Hue  miow. 
Clear  and  clondy. 

Do. 
Dark  ami  hiiow. 

Do. 
Clear  and  cloudy. 

Do. 
Clinidy  and  et  times  mow. 
Dark  and  at  tiiiicB  (mow. 
Clear  and  cloudy. 

Do. 
Daik  and  hiiow. 
Clear  and  at  times  hiiow. 
Cle.ir,  Biinnliiiii',  witliont  clondM. 
Dark  and  hiiow. 
Clear  and  cloudy. 

Do. 

Do. 


'  Mean  temperature  for  Ibiity  days  in  March,  36. 81  de({ree». 


240 


ALAHKA  COAST  PILOT. 
nummary. 


Month. 


NovcihImt  IffiO 

Jaiiuiiry  iaU7  . . 
Febniiiry  18(17  . 
Mnrelil8fi7  .... 


Mean 
tomiiuratiiri'. 

Daily 
nmxiiniiiii. 

Daily 
iiilnijiiilni. 

Xii.  rloiidlou 
(laVH, 

0 

3fl.  1 

o 
41.7 

o 
30.3 

a 

33.9 

41.0 

S4.  3 

0 

31.7 

37.0 

at.  3 

0 

33.3 

45.0 

14.7 

0 

3G.  8 

44.3 

!£l.  0 

4 

lldloM 


INDEX. 


Vagp. 

Ailinlrnlty  !»liin(l loa 

AlaMkii,  };i-iH'i-al  ii})|K-ariuice  uf  coast &d 

AlftHkii,  ^('iK-nil  ilrs('i-l|ition  of  cooHt 50 

AliiHkii,  couHt  (-liiiiatcof 19 

Alciiliaii  iMhititlH,  t'litiiato  of 27 

Alcxiinilcr    Aii'hi|ii'Iii),'o,  ditailiil    ilescilpliim  of 

t'H|«-!*,  liiiyH,  liarboi-H,  icjlaiiiU,  &c fiD 

AlHikh  Uivii- IXi 

AiiuTican  Hay tH 

Aiiclior  I'oiiit 185 

A|i|ii'nclix  No.  I,  Obat'iTiitiouii  on  tho  geology  of 

A  laskii 193 

Apjii  iiilix  No.  2,  List  of  the  (•"Ogi'npliical  iiosllioiiii.  203 
ApiM-ndix  No.  :),  Voraiinlal'y  of  tlio   lali^;ua^i'H  of 

IhtuialivfMnf  Kndiak.L'Uala.'ika,  Ki'iiaiantl  .Sitka  215 

Atiia  or  Copix'!'  Kivcr 119 

Ayulik  l!ay 171 

B. 

iiaiikn: 

Uevil's 76, 90 

8»aOtt<>r 117 

Williams 117 

Harlow  <'c)v»' 10.") 

liaiTcii  iHlniiilH 177 

liai icii  Itock 7B 

Jlayn: 

Anici'icau 91 

Ayalik 171 

Ha7.aii 91 

lUlirlii);  or  Takutat 1:17 

Uei'iicr's 100 

Carter 14 

ChaliiierH 103 

ChlcliaKoir 78 

Chiigaibik 184 

Coal 183 

Controller's 140 

Cordova 90 

Ilry 135 

Fish 124 

rri(?ato 10 

llanniiij; 102 

Holkliivm 112 

llood'8 103 

Home Ki 

liy 141 

Iphicoiiia 95 

Kuliiiina 124 

KanitMcliak 192 

Kazarii 79 

Kliaz I2."i 

Kwitk.shiia 10 

Lindi'iiln'r); 125 

Litrtya 131 

Lower  Kontswxv 103 

Mary 123 


& 

Itoys !  Taun. 

.Mct.miKliliii  II 

1!  lid I  iKl 

Niika 173 

Niitchc'k I.'>5 

Qiili't CI 

Kat8tcli HI 

lU'd ^'J 

Hi'Hurreetion 110 

Saj^inaw 109 

S^'yiiiour 112 

Smijx  ('orner I.^H 

Wpaxka Kli) 

Steamer el 

St.  Johu'ii 122 

ToiigaH 7ri 

THehirikotr 100 

Zaikoir 159 

J!u7.aii  liay 91 

Uelim  Canal MO 

lielirinH  Hay  or  Takutat 137 

lierner's  Itay UW 

liiorka  IxlaJiil 1  Hi 

Itird  or  l'orpi)i|U>  Koeks l.V! 

Hrooks  llarlior l.-i7 

litu-art'lli  Sound 94 

c. 

Capes : 

Adammiii 05 

Addin^toli 95 

Harnett HID 

Jiartolomo 94 

Hazan 99 

Cnamano 80 

Chacon H!l 

Clearo ICO 

CroH8 128 

Decision 97 

I)ou);laH 179' 

Ed^eenmho 1  Ifl 

Kdward 125 

Klizahelh 174 

Fairweatlier 123.134 

Fairwe-ather  to  Capo  Phi])pH 135 

FauHliaw Ill 

Fox 74 

(leoraiann 123 

ITanmnd Ill 

ilineltenlirook 155 

laktaj! 142 

loy 

Kyi;!tiio i(0 

.Manliy 137 

Muorey 75 

North IIU 

Northumberlund 75 

Muuez 90 


ran 


248 


INDKX. 


c. 

Capon ;  r«Rc. 

f)iimiiiiify 100 

Uiih  an.}' toCniKjEdRociimbu 114 

I'liipiw 137 

)'lii|.|.H  l<i  Ciiiu)  SllckliuK 140 

i'li^il 16S1 

if'il IH 

Itiiiu 141 

Silkiij;! 141 

S|«'i r ISO 

SI.  Kilix 04 

Sncliliii!,' 14.1 

Tr!m.seii« 711 

TiiiiK  r 139 

nul.  !•  liav  II 

CrlKttupll  IrtlilUfl 13:1 

Ch- IS  lla.v lo:l 

(  iialrii.lfi  llarlKir- liiTi 

Clialliaiu  Somut n 

(.'liatliam  Slrait,  wi'a  it«  in)H>t  ami    iiitirnccting 

KdniU 100 

fMiicliat'iiir  lla.v  Tg 

Chilkalit  I'.iviT )U7 

r:iij»ill  Nlaiids 171 

i'lailinnndi'Ify  Soiuul 7!) 

(']il(;^arh  InlailtU 1Y4 

f  ;!iiij;acliik  Hay iMl 

<'la:"}iri'  .Siiund 77 

Can  lie,' Sminil,  iiortliwi-sl  cnlniiiri' 96 

Cliiiialc  1)1'  lln'  Al.uUali  I.^lalliU tt7 

'  liiiiiih'  "I'  Kailial , SB 

riiiiiat^Mil'  Sitka 21 

•  ''imatc  III'  Stikiiio  Uivcr ^0 

(.'oal  Ila> lg.1 

*..'<nil  uttucs,  Xamiiiiio,  (ijott) (i 

Coal  J'diiit l(j;i 

(-'iia.-'l  iif  Alanka,  s'^iiciiil  iU>»orii>tf(m 50 

Coayt  <:!ima(o  ol  .llaaka # 19 

CiiaHl  of  llir  ocean  Dorlhward  of  Cajvj  Hihucit i;ii 

''onlnpllci'.s  liav mo 

('vinkV  liilot 175 

(.'■ipiicr  or  .Vtiia  lilvor 149 

t'oi  ilovii  Ila  y 91) 

Coniioranl   Itiiek i;t2 

Coroitatiitii  iHlaiitl 97 

(JroHK  .Soiinil  or  J'.\v  SIrnit ""1,  '29 

CiUTOiiIti  ol  tbii  Xoitli  I'acilic (H 

D, 

I>aviilH(UiGl»'"ior 100 

Da.v'x  I.'rulMir 17(1 

Uetaili  (1  lUsiihitioii of oajiCH, buys, harbors, iNlniiils, 

ScV;.  of  .*.'.txaiKbT  .Arvl.ipflaiio 69 

D(!vi!'»  llaiik 70  no 

Discovciy  PasaaKP )i 

llistaiu'o  of  Sitka  ri-oia  San  Friim-woo,  tlip  dinct 

iimisr  iiiioparoil  witli  iiitiiior iiavigalion r>.fi 

Dison  Souiiil 71 

Disoii  Simtid.  draits,  IiayH,  and  yapo.^  on 74 

,!  Mubl  fill  rmV  ,  a ! 14,-, 

Dry  Day  am'  .VInukli  liivur i;|-, 

S. 

ICii.dirii  lioik j3._) 

Kiisl  Koiilaiid 1^7 

Klfanorl 'ovo itrt 

Miilraiiio.  to  I'limi'  .Viriiaiii  Sound ...  i.-,i 

Kti.llii  Ilmhoi- ^1 

i:i.i|iii  I,.l,tii.-.« _ e[ 


V. 

Pu(j.>. 

Fiiibiyson  Chnnnpl ].; 

Finb  lUiy i«j4 

Fort  Coimt.iiitim) i,-,7 

l-'islicripft 40 

Fit  Inl/^li  Sound 10 

l-'oiTcsIt  r  SHlaiid ((.J 

I'orl  Siiii|i.sim    1^ 

Fnibriek  Strait, its  bnys,  horhors,  nnd  iiiteraeotiiig 

('"""^'K'-" 108 

Frifiato  liay 10 

Fui-btjurinj;  animnlH , 3a 

O. 

Oarrtpn  Oovo j.-jd 

(ioni'ial  apiioaranro  <if  tin-  ciiast  of  Alaska tot 

(lonoral  ili  .srription;^; 

Coast  of  .Vl;t.>^ka 50 

ilarbors  tliroufjb  tlio  luehipelrtKOH 8-19 

St i kino  lidvt'v foj 

Olaiior  .\rni.  Taku  Klvir 11:1 

( Jl.iiifr  Davidson uk! 

(iold.Htri-aiu  Harbor lo 

(iouldiii^  llailior |ij7 

Graham  01  Knubsh  Harbor lel 

Oriiviua  iHlandn 73 

iJn■R^  Archiiiidaso Qt) 

(iroal  Ciirli'  ruiito  from  San  Franoisco  to  .Tapan. . .  07 

<TriJtMl  IslfH Jg;| 

Groi-nvillc  Channtl m 

dry's  Inht j.r, 

Griiidall  Lslaiid 711 

Gimbout  raMngo j.j 

Ilakai  (haiimd  jj 

IJaniiltcui  Harbor joj, 

Ilanniiij;  r«iy jj^ 

Hazy  Ij-lands ni^ 

Uowitt  Itock j3  |i 

Hill  Island ...[......."  107 

li/ncliiulu-ook  Island 153 

ITo.TMii  Island j,j,j 

Hoi,  ham  iJa.v jjo 

Hnoi,  s  liay jQj. 

Jlorno  Hay ,„ 

I. 

J'>  ""^- 141 

I''}   I'lPO ];)! 

Icy  Strait  i>r  Cross  Sound io,|  j 39 

Iiy  Strait,  I.slands  i,i y.^ 

Iliiia  Harbor ],« 

I|)higcnia  !Viy [  pj 

Islands; 

Admiralty ](,., 

.\Ii'xuiid('r,  Arcbipflago  of  the 70 

Barren j.- 

lilorkii ,j|| 

Cai>e  or  St.  I.azara ^^ 

Cenotaph j.^j 

Chiswell ,-, 

<.'IinKa<li ■  ■  ■  J. , 

Conmalion ,,- 

Etidiii ^^ 

Forristcr ,^^ 

Gravina .y.. 

*"•"■'■" ..'.  10-1 


INDEX. 


245  > 


.  157 
40 
10 
!« 
16 

108 
10 
38 


UrliidiiU  . 

Hnzy 

Hill 


Page. 

79 

90 

197 

llincliiulii'iHik l''>3 

I1hl;iii •'■« 

III  lev  .Slniil 130 

K:iM'  »r  Kiiyiik •■*■• 

Kiiijjlilx 139 

I.iit'iiii'hu  or  KiHit !"7 

.Miirluiuli 119 

.M..iiliiciii' l-'il' 

Oti  Ink  nr  Miililli'ton H* 

I'l  .•stihalii  m-  Fiiliw  ell 107,  lOH 

I'MViiiolm  ((I'Tiu-iiabmil HI 

JV ' iw 

SinllBli  I'-M 

79 

Ull 

97 

79 


Skill 

'i'iinijij;aiu    

Wiiiii-ii 

■«•(..!({,. 

Wiiiji'Mlu KS 

VubIui 103 


J. 


jMiniial  111'   iiu'toorologioal  oliHiTvaliciiia  at   llicni- 
Uimk,  UiiuluKka 


Ka<]iak,  rliiiuitc  uf   

Kiiiliii  K.iik 

K.ikr  Strait 

Kakiiii  UiviT 

Kaliiiiiia  liay 

KiiiiiiNrliak  Hay 

Kau'  nr  Kayak  iMlaml 

Kazi'.rii  ilay 

K'tnai  I'liiiiisulu 

Klia/.  Hay 

Kliikiitcliif  or  SiiliMbiiiy  SIihU 

Kiiiclil'*  Islaml 

Kiiii-k  itr  r'iri-  Kivrr 

KuliflHirt'  Uo<-k 

Ivvialisliiia  Ikiy 

Ky^aiii'  Iliirliiir 

K>  iiiiiiipt  Ilai Ijor 


IM'U  Itiif 

Luiiia  l'itw.'ii(io 

I.atoiiclii'  or  FcKit  lalaiiil . 

I.iKlil  at  Sitka 

LiiiiU'iiliiry  Ikiy 

i>ion'«  Ili-aft 

Litlli'  {'r»«8  Strait 

Ijtiija  May 

I.dW  Iiilit 

Liiwtr  Kiiiitstiow  Bay  ... 


H. 


Mac'local  IlnrlKir 

Maiy  Hay 

SI.I,au«iil in  Riy 

Mfl<'"riil.i(;i<al  almtrait  for  Sitka  from  INT  tii  IHIVJ. 
Mctiiii"lii;riral  nlLTWaliunnat  Ilimiliiaik.  I'lialaska 

Midillilon  nr  (Mrlli'k  l»lallit 

MiliMiiik  .S<iiiini 

MiiH'ialM 

Mm'linali  Soiiiiil 

■,V2 


237 


ati 
llx 

109 

187 

in 

I9ii 
144 
79 
109 

va 

121 

i:i9 

190 

118 

lU 

91 

14 


143 
11 

11)7 
130     i 

1(18 

la) 

10 
103 


101 

l£l 

II 

'-•23 

am 
n; 
I'j 

34 

119 


M. 

P»in'. 

Moira  SiiiiihI 78 

MoiitaM-iir  I>4lau<l l-V-t 

M.uinl  Caiilir 98 

Mo.iiil  Crillim 134 

Miiiiiil  !<'air«ialbi'r IXi 

Moiiir.  :•:.  EliuH 14'J 

Mount  tVriuiKvU l-"*! 

MutUtoy 103 

N. 

Xaiiiii  HarlMir I ' 

Ni'va  1*  isnatif I'' 

.Viiiiln.  liiik  SliiMil I8« 

N, mil  Cap.' Wl 

Xnrtli  PartHairo  Um'k 103 

Xiika  nay 1"3 

O. 

OlisorvatiiiiiH  for  (llmlloii  of  wind  at  llioiilloiik, 

riiaia»ka 'J^Ui 

(kiaii  1  iiant  iiiirtliwaril  of  CajM'  SpomtT 131 

Odil.'a  (  lialllli-1 Ki 

(Jtilukor  .Middletoii  Inliinil 1 17 

Otiiiiloi  or  Slioal'il  I'llillt 14'^ 

litter  .■iouiul 90 

P. 

Paiiiploim  IfoekH 148 

I'a vloir  Harlwr 104 

I'erilSliait I'J4 

renliluiiii  or  Farewell  lalnnil 1"",  108 

i'oilllH: 

.\  iiclior 1 W 

.Vlmier 114 

Anlell 113 

.\il);ll.ila 104 

ilaker 99 

llaiikK 1"« 

Ba«II 104 

Ik'ile 1"! 

lienlini'k  l''3 

Hiiialiam 148 

Ilol'laMe ■  98 

lJliil|.'.t l'"! 

Coal 1* 

ConiwalUa li'9 

t'ouilteHH 108 

( 'oiiverdeu 104 

DaviilHon '"' 

Day 12 

Kllxii  101 

j,;|lit, 104 

Klrilltttoll lO** 

C.ardiiiT l""' 

(iiliiioiir 100 

(;ole 1  "3 

Grn-.' 10'' 

llarrii. ■O''' 

llictjio" "'^ 

Ili^'liMild *" 

IMiart IIJ 

lluuli "■- 

KihuHiiiill ■"■■' 

I.auilcT 11'' 

Marartnev "« 

Ma.ke.ule li"' 

.MalMd.li  '0'' 

ilaHkelylie ••  ^ 

.Ml  siiriir * 


2r)() 


JNDKX. 


p. 

I'i>illtH:  I'll;.'! 

Nl'IM'Ull II 

(dUil      I*! 

( Umildl  iir  Sluwls 188 

I'aikii 104 

IVrcy 18 

I'oHHl-HHilin 188 

Pykc 168 

HcHimi'i'tioii 170 

Hi'licnt ' 105 

Kiwi  7a 

Sali»tiury HI* 

Siiinnil 10;t 

SiliUiiliakli lOa 

Siiliuliiin 10« 

Siiikllijj 100 

S(anl»>iM- el 

SI.  Miiry HI6 

Styliliiilll 113 

Siilli  villi 102 

Tlakiiiikul 10:i 

Tiiiiki>i 81 

Valli'inar 73 

VuiHii'init no 

Walpi.li' lia 

Wiiiilliaiii lis 

Wliiilliiy 106 

Wi.ionwi I!H) 

l*n)inla(i<iit  null  ^I'lioral  charactf  1*181108  of  tlio  iiihub- 

ilaiilM M 

I'nr]iuiHi-  III-  Itiril  Riirkrt l.Vi 

I'lirl  All liiirp l* 

I'lii-I  Ai'iiiHtniii;; 101 

I'nii  l\iiiii\iriil)5i' 168 

I'.ai  ItalikB 114 

I'm  I  Iliailili'lr 07 

I'm  I  (  aniili'li 110 

I'm  I  rliiillK.M IH) 

I'm  I  <  i.ii'  liiHiuli 101 

Poll  Dii  li 17.1 

Purl  r.lrlii'Miir  N'liti'lit'k  May 155 

Purl  ( inlilni'f 77 

Iiirl  Ilii.iKiilMii lia 

I'oil  Kn«liiv l!S 

I'liii  Maliiisluiiy 101 

Pmi  M.aii'H 77, 93 

PnrI  MiilKlilvi' l;W 

Pint  Priili'i'lidii Ill- 

Purl  Simp.HMii 17 

Poll  Siii'llishaiii Hi 

Poll  Sirwail 80 

Porlaci'  llailiiir ; 110 

Poll '.anil  rauul 7'i 

Poiilaiiil  ilurliiir 120 

INivoiotiH'V  i-r  'riiriialiont  iHltinil Ill 

Prini'i'  William  .'^n^l^ll  or  <'hiij;arli  liiilf 151 

PriiH-o  William  Soiinil.  nitiancc  to I.'i4 

I'yt'  IhIuihU iTi 

<J. 

Qiiii't  Itay 81 

K. 

Kari'  Partsajio 9 

Ualxl.  li  Hay 81 

Hi'il  llay 89 

K.'ilCaii.' 114 

Ki'i'f  I.iiiila 143 

lli'i'f.  Till'  PoiuliiM 18 


Pap'. 

l;«  'igcCori' Ifl 

ICi-.i.  rei-tiiai  Hay 170 

AlHikli 135 

Atiia  111"  CojijiiT 149 

(-•liUknlit 107 

Kaknii 187 

Kiiik  iir  Fiin 190 

Slikiiii,  t'l'iicral  ili'Hi'iiiiliou (jU 

SlikiiK'.  ciiri'i'iit  aiitt  iiavigatinu 64 

Sulwliitiia 191 

I{o8i-  Piiiiit 72 

KiigKfd  Kuck 164 

8. 

Safety  Cove 10 

Saginaw  Bay 109 

SaliHlmiy  nr  Klokatiluf  Strait 133 

Siliiiiiini-  lii't  nat 10 

Scaforl li  (  liuniii'l 18 

Snillllcr  Hank 147 

Seal  liocks 155 

Seymour  Hay 113 

Seymour  XairoWH 9 

Sliip  PaHsafii' 14 

Shimi,  Niniioiliik 180 

Shoals  or  Otmeloi  Point 128 

SiililNiii  Ulaliil 134 

Silikini;  I'oinI 160 

Sitka. I'liinale  of ai 

Sitka  llarlior      .    119 

Sitka,  litlil  at 180 

Sitka  Somnl Ufl 

Skill  Inlanil 79 

SniicCoinir  Hay 158 

South  PawMnge  Itm^k 164 

Simnka  Hay 130 

St.  l^a/ara  or  Tupn  1  mIqihI 117 

St.  John'H  Kay .    .  lag 

St.  CliryHONtoni  Harbor 187 

Steamer  Hay 81 

SleplHiiN  Siiait Ill 

Slewarl  llarlior 16 

Stikine  Uiver,  general  ileHi'riptiou 83 

Stikiue  liiver,  elimale 80 

Stikine  liiver.  enrrent  and  navigation 84 

Stikine  liiver.  Ilah  auil  gumo M 

Stikine  .'vhuhI Ht* 

StiH-kilale  Harbor 167 

Strailn  intirseitingCliatliam  Strait 108 

Stripeil  Mountain la 

SntHrliitiia  Uiver 191 

T. 

Takntat  or  Beliring  Hay 137 

Tayakliiinxiii  llarlior    73 

"  'i'he  Trap  ■ 7 

Tilled  al  : 

I  'ape  Turner 139 

i(otil.'4|reain  Harlior n 

K_\-gaTie  ilarlior 91 

Kyniimpt  llarlior ij 

1  ililva  liay 133 

Port  Klelie«  or  Nuteliiik  Bay 157 

Point  po»!*eMMiiin 189 

Port  Sini|Moii ig 

iSltka (go 

TongH!i  Hay 78 


IXDKX. 


251 


t. 

'l'i)ii;;ils  Illy T8 

Tdiiliiii  I'liiiit «l 

'rniifTiKs  N'aiTows aiitl  the  itraviim  TftlnufiH 75 

•I'srliii  ikdIV  lliv 100 

Tiiniapiiu  Arm 180 

Tiirnayain  Inland 191 

W, 

WalniHiviii-y '80 

WaiTi-n  iHlaliil 97 

VVidixi"  ImIuikI 79 

vVilliiiinH  Hank U7 

Winjiliani  Island 145 

Wolf  I{(K-k« n:t 


W. 

I'aK"'. 

Wiaiitjcll  PannaRO Ill 

Wianp;;  Strait  H8 

V. 

'    ■Vi'irctablf  Pioiliii'tlima iiU 

VitsUiiri  Kipi'k IIM 

y. 

Va«lia  Islaiiil 10:1 

Z. 

Zaikiiir  Hay IW) 

ZpiKibia  Uiiik 118 


